➡Be sure and get my FREE Photography Guides: "I Bought A Nice Camera, Now What? 10 Things To Do First" and "Photography Basics: 20 Definitions You Should Know" on my website: "boorayperry.com/education/ ➡Use the code TH-cam to save 50% on my guide to photographing with natural light and my guide on photographing outdoors with off-camera flash! 9 ➡Guides and other stuff - boorayperry.com/education/ ➡Gear - linktr.ee/boorayperry ➡Instagram - wwwinstagram.com/boorayperry/ ➡Store - my-store-e02782.creator-spring.com/listing/new-camera-nerd ➡Booray Explains - tinyurl.com/3e7w8zjt
Thank you for this video Booray. The manufacturers place a lot of tools in their cameras at our disposal. Many of these tools are never used. There is a reason all the manufacturers include semiautomatic functions in their cameras. If you want to use the semiautomatic function that is your decision. We all need to understand the exposure triangle. Once we master this discipline we can choose the settings we want. This is the decision the professional makes. Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
What mode to use depends on the context. If I am talking a walk with my camera, and I use a kit lens, I usually use shutter priority mode. With a faster lens, I might switch to aperture priority mode, also depending on what I intend to shoot. In a studio, I use manual mode and studio strobes. For macro, I use manual mode and a hotshoe flash, for landscape manual and a tripod. And, in all of these situations, there are exceptions where I would choose to use a different mode. When people say they only shoot in manual mode, it means they have only learned one thing. It also means they would rather talk about what mode they use, than about how to create interesting pictures.
Great explanation for all the different types that you can use. I definitely probably have gravitated towards Aperture priority a lot because of the first point you made around. It affects the image the most and it probably has got a lot to do with the content that I shoot and also the camera I use has incredible dynamic range so even exposure is not as important as it is say on a small crop sensor camera, probably makes me a little bit lazy to be honest but that's how I roll sometimes. Great video as always thank you for your content!!
It goes back to film, I only used manual because for most of my cameras that's all there was, my first auto cameras were my Nikon f3's but I was so used to having a Gossens or Pentax lightmeter hanging round my neck I never, ever used auto. It was the same with colour correction, I had a Sekonic, a grey card, filter holders and a wallet full of Wratten filters .... I didn't do that to be snooty, I did it because it was all we had.
It's funny this popped up for me today......I just watched some training by Joe Buissink, who charges $10,000-$40,000 to shoot a wedding, and he shoots in "P" mode (he says P stands for Professional). The real trick for people who use auto modes is knowing when, and how, to compensate exposure based on the scene. Canon has a dial on the back of their cameras so you can "lighten or darken" the exposure when your are in the auto modes, and I assume other manufacturers have something similar. If I were shooting portraits again, I'd probably use manual mode more often, but I shoot LOTS of active kids (2,000+ pictures a day) in vastly variable lighting conditions, and that doesn't allow me time to dial in perfect exposures. Aperture priority and the "Auto" button in lightroom are my friends!! With the sensors and software we have today, you can be way off on exposure and it won't be a problem. Great stuff! Thanks for posting!
When I got a X-T5 and then a X-H2 I think I used P (Program) for the first week on both while familiarizing myself with both cameras. After that I always find myself using A (Aperture Priority). Recently, used S (Shutter Priority) when I was shooting a hummingbird to freeze its wings without any blur. Used M (Manual) when I was shooting the last full moon. When I don't feel like thinking about anything I might use P (Program). LOL
@@politicallyincorrectpuppy That's a real photographer. You understand how your equipment works and how photography works and you use what works best for you. 📷😃
I drive a manual car as it saves fuel over an Auto, my iPhone is set to auto most of the time I’d rather get the shot than miss it, when I own a camera again ( one day ) would to learn how to set it manually but would definitely start off In Auto until I get used to the settings 🥳
Interesting topic, so many people get hook into the "Real Photographer" mind set. I personally have found that in certain scenarios, I have to rely on the auto mode, as the environment I am shooting is dynamic and by the time I chose the right Aperture, Speed and ISO combination the scene I wanted to capture is gone. So I am learning on how to read the environment I am in and set the camera to the auto mode that allows me to control the one variable I believe I want to manage (A or S for Fuji + ISO range) and let the camera do the rest. I believe part of being a photographer is learn about the tool you are using so you can benefit from its given functionality, maybe is easy for me because I have a background in software and computer technology in general but one should strive to learn the functionality of his/her camera. A note on old photographers sticking to old concepts, I notice that in my photography class the instructor kept saying not to rely on the embedded camera meter as they are not reliable, I believe that was true years ago but I think those in-camera meters have come long ways and are more accurate therefore reliable that before, what do you think? In a different topic, I have to say your enthusiasm for the Fuji X100 VI is having me at the verge of getting one but I am containing myself 🤣 Thanks for the video!
Hand held camera meters are a waste at this point except for portrait flash setups. I think that older photographers still cling to them because they think it has to be perfect in camera when, shooting raw, it just has to be close. Also, everyone has their own idea of what the "perfect" exposure is...
I shoot in all modes except P. Whichever is most appropriate It depends on what camera I have with me and what work I am doing. 9/10 im shooting in Manual but with auto ISO. I nearly always want to be deciding what I want the shutter speed and depth of field to be as I’m usually shooting fast action. But manual mode doesn’t mean im having to change all my settings to keep up with the scene like some kind of sleight of hand wizard magician. A lot of it is set and forget. Normally I have a telephoto prime on the camera. As it’s fast action I want my shutter at 1/2000 or 1/4000, and aperture usually wide open at 2.8 or 4 depending on the lens. Unless there is a good reason not to of course. Since i still use a Nikon D500, I don’t have an Evf, if I did I might use exposure comp. However, without the evf it’s more difficult to keep track of how the camera is exposing. Instead I tell the camera to choose what ISO I want by switching metering modes. I keep camera in matrix metering, but I have the front two function buttons assigned to spot metering and highlight protection metering. Want to lower exposure, easy I hold down highlight protection metering button, want to expose for the subject, hold spot metering. Want to expose for the scene don’t press any buttons. That usually covers all the exposure levels I need. This frees me up entirely to get composition and timing right for the shot. It’s almost as easy as fully auto but I get everything I want. I use back button focus, one button will autofocus for group detect, and pressing the joystick will single point autofocus. If I’m in a situation where I’m using flash then I’m using another auto mode, ttl. So Pro’s absolutely use auto modes, but it’s because they are in the mode that best captures what they are looking for, not just hoping the camera can figure it out for them.
Just set the camera to P for "professional" and go to town! At least that was the joke back when I was shooting medium format mechanical film cameras with leaf shutters in the lenses.
Booray, that was an enjoyable video to listen to. You managed to encompass all types of photographers. I have no preference for what mode I like to shoot and use them all depending on the light, subject, and what I am trying to achieve. I tell fellow photographers to shoot in whatever mode they feel comfortable with to get the results that make them happy. I'm also glad to share how and why I might use M, A, or S mode. Photography should been fun!
Hey Booray, i really enjoyed this subject, also I've heard photographers saying if you use TTL mode on your Flash you are not a real photographer. I use all modes depending on the situation, but i never use the Green Auto mode. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Much appreciated for this video Booray. 😊📸.
In the first image, note the time offset between the cell phone and the camera taking the shot, as evidenced by the hand/arm position in both pictures. Not a thousand words, but maybe 75-100. Good video, btw. (But don't you mean aperture priority mode, not auto mode?)
LOL... Those are prints from all over the old house, not just my office. I haven't figured out what I want to do on that wall so I'm just storing them :)
hello sir. thanks for all your videos. you are excellent. i like the way you explain stuff. i am willing to buy canon r50. but i have problems with indoor shooting using a flash and trigger. a lot of time it doesn’t come bright enough etc. (wrong exposure). the problem is the way i set the flash positions to hit the subject always wrong. can you explain that in a video how to set the flash position for the right exposure?
Much as I love AA, he is not the only measure of good photography. And automode was not available when he did photography. He used a Weston hand held lightmeter which was the most advanced light measuring tech available to him.
➡Be sure and get my FREE Photography Guides: "I Bought A Nice Camera, Now What? 10 Things To Do First"
and
"Photography Basics: 20 Definitions You Should Know"
on my website: "boorayperry.com/education/
➡Use the code TH-cam to save 50% on my guide to photographing with natural light and my guide on photographing outdoors with off-camera flash!
9
➡Guides and other stuff - boorayperry.com/education/
➡Gear - linktr.ee/boorayperry
➡Instagram - wwwinstagram.com/boorayperry/
➡Store - my-store-e02782.creator-spring.com/listing/new-camera-nerd
➡Booray Explains - tinyurl.com/3e7w8zjt
Thank you for this video Booray.
The manufacturers place a lot of tools in their cameras at our disposal. Many of these tools are never used. There is a reason all the manufacturers include semiautomatic functions in their cameras. If you want to use the semiautomatic function that is your decision. We all need to understand the exposure triangle. Once we master this discipline we can choose the settings we want. This is the decision the professional makes.
Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
What mode to use depends on the context. If I am talking a walk with my camera, and I use a kit lens, I usually use shutter priority mode. With a faster lens, I might switch to aperture priority mode, also depending on what I intend to shoot. In a studio, I use manual mode and studio strobes. For macro, I use manual mode and a hotshoe flash, for landscape manual and a tripod.
And, in all of these situations, there are exceptions where I would choose to use a different mode.
When people say they only shoot in manual mode, it means they have only learned one thing. It also means they would rather talk about what mode they use, than about how to create interesting pictures.
Another Booray classic. 100% reasonable, no judgement, love this channel.
@@billwinward9324 Thanks Bill! 📷😃
I wish I was a real Photographer
Now, I shoot in Aperture Priority. However, I learned digital photography with the Exposure Triangle and the Sunny 16 rule.
Great explanation for all the different types that you can use. I definitely probably have gravitated towards Aperture priority a lot because of the first point you made around. It affects the image the most and it probably has got a lot to do with the content that I shoot and also the camera I use has incredible dynamic range so even exposure is not as important as it is say on a small crop sensor camera, probably makes me a little bit lazy to be honest but that's how I roll sometimes. Great video as always thank you for your content!!
Great practical advice and perspectives. Thanks Booray
Thanks Dennis!
It goes back to film, I only used manual because for most of my cameras that's all there was, my first auto cameras were my Nikon f3's but I was so used to having a Gossens or Pentax lightmeter hanging round my neck I never, ever used auto. It was the same with colour correction, I had a Sekonic, a grey card, filter holders and a wallet full of Wratten filters .... I didn't do that to be snooty, I did it because it was all we had.
It's funny this popped up for me today......I just watched some training by Joe Buissink, who charges $10,000-$40,000 to shoot a wedding, and he shoots in "P" mode (he says P stands for Professional). The real trick for people who use auto modes is knowing when, and how, to compensate exposure based on the scene. Canon has a dial on the back of their cameras so you can "lighten or darken" the exposure when your are in the auto modes, and I assume other manufacturers have something similar.
If I were shooting portraits again, I'd probably use manual mode more often, but I shoot LOTS of active kids (2,000+ pictures a day) in vastly variable lighting conditions, and that doesn't allow me time to dial in perfect exposures. Aperture priority and the "Auto" button in lightroom are my friends!! With the sensors and software we have today, you can be way off on exposure and it won't be a problem.
Great stuff! Thanks for posting!
Thank you for mentioning Buissink. He is a great wedding photographer.
Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
Always good insights dude
Thanks dude!
Excellent and amiable thoughts as usual.
When I got a X-T5 and then a X-H2 I think I used P (Program) for the first week on both while familiarizing myself with both cameras. After that I always find myself using A (Aperture Priority). Recently, used S (Shutter Priority) when I was shooting a hummingbird to freeze its wings without any blur. Used M (Manual) when I was shooting the last full moon.
When I don't feel like thinking about anything I might use P (Program). LOL
@@politicallyincorrectpuppy That's a real photographer. You understand how your equipment works and how photography works and you use what works best for you. 📷😃
I drive a manual car as it saves fuel over an Auto, my iPhone is set to auto most of the time I’d rather get the shot than miss it, when I own a camera again ( one day ) would to learn how to set it manually but would definitely start off In Auto until I get used to the settings 🥳
Interesting topic, so many people get hook into the "Real Photographer" mind set. I personally have found that in certain scenarios, I have to rely on the auto mode, as the environment I am shooting is dynamic and by the time I chose the right Aperture, Speed and ISO combination the scene I wanted to capture is gone. So I am learning on how to read the environment I am in and set the camera to the auto mode that allows me to control the one variable I believe I want to manage (A or S for Fuji + ISO range) and let the camera do the rest.
I believe part of being a photographer is learn about the tool you are using so you can benefit from its given functionality, maybe is easy for me because I have a background in software and computer technology in general but one should strive to learn the functionality of his/her camera.
A note on old photographers sticking to old concepts, I notice that in my photography class the instructor kept saying not to rely on the embedded camera meter as they are not reliable, I believe that was true years ago but I think those in-camera meters have come long ways and are more accurate therefore reliable that before, what do you think?
In a different topic, I have to say your enthusiasm for the Fuji X100 VI is having me at the verge of getting one but I am containing myself 🤣
Thanks for the video!
Hand held camera meters are a waste at this point except for portrait flash setups. I think that older photographers still cling to them because they think it has to be perfect in camera when, shooting raw, it just has to be close. Also, everyone has their own idea of what the "perfect" exposure is...
I shoot in all modes except P. Whichever is most appropriate It depends on what camera I have with me and what work I am doing. 9/10 im shooting in Manual but with auto ISO. I nearly always want to be deciding what I want the shutter speed and depth of field to be as I’m usually shooting fast action. But manual mode doesn’t mean im having to change all my settings to keep up with the scene like some kind of sleight of hand wizard magician. A lot of it is set and forget. Normally I have a telephoto prime on the camera. As it’s fast action I want my shutter at 1/2000 or 1/4000, and aperture usually wide open at 2.8 or 4 depending on the lens. Unless there is a good reason not to of course. Since i still use a Nikon D500, I don’t have an Evf, if I did I might use exposure comp. However, without the evf it’s more difficult to keep track of how the camera is exposing. Instead I tell the camera to choose what ISO I want by switching metering modes. I keep camera in matrix metering, but I have the front two function buttons assigned to spot metering and highlight protection metering. Want to lower exposure, easy I hold down highlight protection metering button, want to expose for the subject, hold spot metering. Want to expose for the scene don’t press any buttons. That usually covers all the exposure levels I need. This frees me up entirely to get composition and timing right for the shot. It’s almost as easy as fully auto but I get everything I want. I use back button focus, one button will autofocus for group detect, and pressing the joystick will single point autofocus.
If I’m in a situation where I’m using flash then I’m using another auto mode, ttl. So Pro’s absolutely use auto modes, but it’s because they are in the mode that best captures what they are looking for, not just hoping the camera can figure it out for them.
Just set the camera to P for "professional" and go to town! At least that was the joke back when I was shooting medium format mechanical film cameras with leaf shutters in the lenses.
Booray, that was an enjoyable video to listen to. You managed to encompass all types of photographers. I have no preference for what mode I like to shoot and use them all depending on the light, subject, and what I am trying to achieve. I tell fellow photographers to shoot in whatever mode they feel comfortable with to get the results that make them happy. I'm also glad to share how and why I might use M, A, or S mode. Photography should been fun!
Exactly. I just want people to also realize that it can be even MORE fun if you have the option of taking full control, even if you don't use it. :)
Hey Booray, i really enjoyed this subject, also I've heard photographers saying if you use TTL mode on your Flash you are not a real photographer. I use all modes depending on the situation, but i never use the Green Auto mode. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Much appreciated for this video Booray. 😊📸.
I can't understand how any event photographer works without TTL.
@@BoorayPerry Yeah the TTL does a fine good job. It's to risky changing it manually and getting it wrong. Thanks Booray 😊📸
This video was fun, after watching, I really want to be a photographer!
I always shoot in manual ! hahaha
In the first image, note the time offset between the cell phone and the camera taking the shot, as evidenced by the hand/arm position in both pictures. Not a thousand words, but maybe 75-100. Good video, btw. (But don't you mean aperture priority mode, not auto mode?)
I said "auto mode" a lot so it's possible I meant "ap priority" sometimes?
If all you do in M is set the exposure according to the meter, you are simply replicating an auto mode with regard to exposure.
A real photographer is one that hangs their prints on the wall and not laying up against the wall (just joking at ya Booray)
LOL... Those are prints from all over the old house, not just my office. I haven't figured out what I want to do on that wall so I'm just storing them :)
hello sir. thanks for all your videos. you are excellent. i like the way you explain stuff.
i am willing to buy canon r50. but i have problems with indoor shooting using a flash and trigger. a lot of time it doesn’t come bright enough etc. (wrong exposure). the problem is the way i set the flash positions to hit the subject always wrong. can you explain that in a video how to set the flash position for the right exposure?
@@moeegyy9276 if you set the flash about 3 ft to your side and point it right the subject's face you shouldn't have a problem
@@BoorayPerry thanks sir. so what’s is the distance between the strobe with 90 cm octa box and the subject for full body shots?
@@moeegyy9276 There is no "correct" distance. It depends on how much light falloff you want. The light closer will produce deeper shadows.
You might have mentioned that when you use auto mode you cannot shoot in raw. Only JPEG.
Didn't even think of that!
@@BoorayPerry @PhilZwick Is that a camera dependent feature? I can shoot Raw+JPEG on my Fuji X-H2.
Ansel Adams never used the auto mode on his 4x5 or 8x10 cameras.
Much as I love AA, he is not the only measure of good photography. And automode was not available when he did photography. He used a Weston hand held lightmeter which was the most advanced light measuring tech available to him.
There is no manual mode this days, since your camera shows up the results of your choices at screen.. :)
That's a whole other discussion my friend. :)
Hello Mr Booray!
Something wrong with the audio.