If you are interested in trying out Carbon Method's Ceramic Nanofinish, this kit is all you need to get started: carbonmethod.com/ceramic-nanofinish-quick-kit/
@@interdimensionalsailboat it’s not meant for high heat or direct food contact application. When applying the finish, appropriate respirators and gloves should be worn. It is my understanding that ceramic coatings are inert under normal use and circumstances once cured. With that being said, it’s always a good idea to be skeptical of safety and health implications.
I am so glad that you covered this. I've been tempted to invest in the UV cured finishes since I first saw Cam use one on Blacktail Studio, but I couldn't justify the cost to try a replacement for finishes that already work for my purposes. During the video, I was just waiting for you to introduce the free UV option, and greatly appreciate that you were thorough with all of the options. Once again, great content, excellent editing, and superb jokes! With how concise you keep your videos, especially considering how much time, effort and $$$ you put into them, I think you'll have 100K subscribers by the end of the year!
Thanks Aaron! I really wish vesting made a 200mL or anything less than 500mL option for people to try the finish because it really is spectacular! But being able to cure the stuff so quickly is an absolute game changer in how I have been approaching finishing lately. I MIGHT even refinish my previously lacquered dining table while still IN the house because the VOCs are negligible enough with cross ventilation in the summer time. I don't think i'll be using any other finishes going forward unless its a weird shaped objects where spraying makes the most sense. Def recommend trying it out. Same goes for the ceramic nano finish products. While it is an ad in the video and there is a possibility of bias, I am really digging it so far.
The review is great! So thorough and clear and straightforward. I’ve been following woodworking channels for years but this is the first I’ve seen of you. Grateful to have found you!
Excellent and honest disclaimer about your past relationship with Chimiver. Far too often content makers provide inadequate disclosures. I appreciate how you acknowledge the past relationship and while noting that you 'do your best' to provide an unbiased review, which leaves room for the possibility of bias. This is the first video of yours that ive watched where you have a sponsor. It made me nervous because of how much I value attempts at objective assessment. Might see silly by I appreciate the language you use in your financial disclosure statement. Confidence restored!
Thank you! I really appreciate your comment. I generally have a rule to not include any sponsored products in objective testing parts of my videos. In fact, JDiction had reached out few months ago and I declined to work with them because I knew their product would be included in this video. Unfortunately I couldn't go back in time to retract the Chimiver relationship for this video. haha.
I have been experimenting with hobby grade uv resins for guitar building and wood finishing. I have tried solarez, jdiction, and “ nicpro uv resin” brands. Understand they are different, craft uv resins are epoxy/acrylic while the solarez is acrylic modified polyester. Polyester by nature is much harder. I bought a 300w 385nm, yes I said 385nm panel for $85 on amazon and attached to a mic boom arm so I could move it around at different angles. What you will find is because uv cure resins are oxygen inhibited, only some resins get hard when applying thin layers. Jdiction for example dries hard but only with thicker layers. If you want a rock hard scratch resistant surface that lays down beautifully, try solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer grain filler/sealer brush on. I have used this both as sealer and a finish because it’s hardness and sand ability is much greater than craft uv resins. Here is real kicker you can actually make your own or buy acrylic modified or strait polyester uv resin for $85 a gallon at most surf shops. It’s been manufactured by a company called simlar for years. You can thin it and even add mekp if you want to dual cure. One thing to note is that if you use mekp it’s not low voc anymore. Good video keep experimenting.
Not much I can say that haven't been said in the comments already. But damn dude this video has so much good information i feel like i have to watch it a few times over. Got yourself a sub sir 💪
Back in the day I used a fluorescent tube uv light for erasing EEPROMs. It was super cheap - just a few bucks. Just a typical 12 or 18" tube that fit in a compact fluorescent fixture (like you might use for under cabinet lighting). I believe I got the tube from some beauty supply or something like that. They are/were used for sanitizing clippers, brushes, etc. I don't know the wavelengths it produced but it worked quickly for EEPROMs, and could also give you a suntan 🙂 A lot less fancy than LEDs, but a whole lot cheaper.
There is another product, same design, I think was featured on StumpyNubs channel. The videos I came across showed using $300-$400 UV lights on a timer for approximately 5 minutes to get a full cure. Another factor not mentioned in your video and I see in the comments is people scoffing at the price. One needs to factor in the fact that the product is basically 100% solids and will cover approximately 4X’s the area and eliminates the need to build up 5 coats for the same thickness of protection and is available in a gloss or satin finish.
Another great informative video Suman! 👍🏻 I recently used Rubio Pure on ambrosia maple and I hated it. After a bit of testing myself I switching to Rubio 5% white. It gave the maple a more “natural” look and removed the yellowing color.
Combine this channel with project farm and you have a lot of science going on. Check out the paper towel episode specifically for disposable yet reusable lint free paper towels- some kind of aerospace wipes made perfectly for this type of thing
Hey man excellent work! I actually did a mini review of the UV beast light in my first YT video. I used the 2 which isnt as strong but gets better coverage. Then I bought the V3 which you use here and found that, even though it's stronger it ended up taking longer because the cone of light it so small. So I use the V2 now since my builds are always on the larger side. Looking forward to more content from you!
The point about the size of the most powerful light having such a small exposure area can't be stressed enough, I think. If you have deep pours like you demonstrated that need significant exposure to fully cure deep down in there, then that power must be crucial. But otherwise, if it's a project of any size you're finishing, you'll be spending similar times curing the finish with the light gun as with the cheaper lights or sunlight. The difference is that with the light gun, you'll be occupied with curing the finish the whole time, whereas with the cheaper lights or sunlight you can spend that time cleaning, or applying finish to another project, or checking your fantasy curling team, or anything else.
Fantastic video brother. Can't wait until these finishes are commonplace. You know one of the big box brands like Varathane or Minwax has to be sprinting to market right now.
Thanks for putting the time to figure this type of stuff out....I do get lost in some of your technical mumbo jumbo but trust your conclusions. Awesome video as always!!!!
Great video. Now this may sound silly but how do these UV cure finishes hold up long term to sunlight exposure. Walnut can turn orangish and maple turn yellowish when exposed to sunlight long term with hard wax finishes. I would also love to see a longer torture test for water damage with to these UV finishes
As I understand it, once they crystallize from the initial UV exposure, they become inert to additional UV insult. The initial heavy loading of UV light def yellows it a tiny bit more than usual and then returns within a few hours into the samples as shown in the video. Not yet sure how it would yellow over time. I’ll keep the samples at hand and keep an eye on them.
big fan of how you test and make your videos. have any thoughts on clean armor? seems like it is zero VOCs and can be applied, say, in your living room and then taken outside to cure.
I'm aware of at least one brand of UV-curing resin available in the US that you didn't mention: Solarez, whose I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer product sees use at least on finishing guitars.
Great video Suman. Asking a question as a serious hobby woodworker (which I admit means I don't know much about finishing beyond what I have learned from other hobbyists, books, magazines, and TH-cam): Would you consider doing a glue resistance test? Parts of any project could be prefinished to prevent glue adherence when doing glue-up and assembly if the UV cured finish is 'glue resistant'. Thanks in advance.
What is the clean up/reducing agent for Heidelberg Prolignum? btw, LED Coating solutions is now out of all forms of Heidelburg LED oil. Hopefully they restock soon! I emailed them about restocking. Ill let you know what they say
Will you please do an update to this on Clean Armor 750/757 tabletop finish as well? I want to know more about that one as it compares to these others as well. It seems a little more bullet proof as compared to the oils (more like a traditional finish).
Given how poorly this video performed, unlikely that I will make a video on this subject again. With that being said, I don’t think clean armor is that much different than vesting or Heidelberg in terms of durability. Personally I’m using only Heidelberg products at the moment and it seems more durable than lacquer and without any affect from solvents like alcohol/acetone.
Kind of off topic, but what's the go to literature that any aspiring and overly motivated woodworker needs to read? Any must haves that need to be in any woodshop? Im trying to start growing my general knowledge about woodworking past what TH-cam can teach me. Thanks in advance
Thanks Suman. Great video. I really appreciate this information. I had heard of UV finishes, but hadn't seen much about them. I think at this point I'm ready to do some testing of my own. The VOC scores are a major plus, so thank you for providing that information. I think I'll be using the "free cure" method!!! ;)
As long as the light can touch it, it should work the same. The finish lays similar to traditional hardwax oil. Though, disclaimer is: I have not extensively used it on ornate surfaces. The finish is a lot more durable than most options out there. I have been using it on furnitures around the house and it’s holding up better than lacquer so far. Which is wild to me.
As an Australian, I feel I may have a slight unfair advantage over the rest of the world when it comes to the rate of curing UV resins outside. For once I am grateful for the thinned out ozone layer above Australia and the consequent insane UV index. Great video, Suman! Always excited when you post a video as I know it's going to be top notch quality. I was unaware of UV finishes and will definitely see if I can get my hands on some. Do you think the finishes yellow over time like clear resins do?
lol so I looked into some research studies on geographical spread of UV exposure in preparation for this video. Yall wild out there freeballing it in Australia 😂
@@WoodcraftBySuman I know right! Only the insane or uneducated are at the beach late morning to early afternoon. We had a Danish exchange student in my PhD lab who found out about Aussie sun the hard way. He went to the beach without sunscreen or proper cover for a few hours. He ended up with second and third degree burns. I felt so bad for him too because none of us in the lab group had a chat with him about how intense our sunlight is. He had an ongoing list of things that tried to kill him while he was in Australia. He added the sun to that list after that day.
Yes- essentially it’s 1qt but is actually 1L. It’s pricy but just as hardwax oils go, it has great coverage. Think of it with the same coverage as Rubio monocoat.
Oh man, I was really hoping you were about to dive into DIY LED kits. The moment I saw that first Blacktail video I was thinking there has to be a cheaper way to make that light using DIY parts.
Do you have any figures of merit to explain the amount of area coverage each container provides so that you could compare the costs of these finishes as currency/cm^2. Really love how you organize these experiments and the honesty in the way you present your data.
Chimiver claims 10-20 grams per m2 Vesting claims 20-26 grams per m2 for 1st coat and 10 grams per m2 for second coat. There is a lot of technical data you can get into but from experience, coverage is comparable with traditional hardwax oils. First coat probably takes a little more than normal hardwax oil but second coat takes less than usual.
Thanks, inspiring. Did I miss it or did you not talk at all about coverage? Huge impact on cost. Also… been following for a while and always thought you were Canadian… you’ve got that easy going friendliness.
Sorry I didn’t elaborate on coverage. It’s similar to hardwax oils. Which is why the price per L comparison was made. And lol, first time being considered a Canadian. I live close enough to go to occasional dinners in Canada if that counts 😂
@@WoodcraftBySuman I think Drew/Jon/Scott or someone made reference to you being “up north” and somehow I just thought you were on the other side of the border… well that and the delightfully friendly tone of your videos it just seemed to reinforce that wrong assumption. Btw, I think maybe you don’t even realize it, but it’s obvious to the rest of us that you only really like the the UV finishes because of the _purple_ light….
We will have to wait and see if UV cured resins for woodworkers survive. One thing to mention is Natura Onecoat 2 pack hard wax oil. It beat Rubio in the tests carried out by the Wood Whisperer and is much cheaper than Rubio. On ceramic coatings. Does the ceramic coating flex at all; just as wood does?
I haven’t specifically tested this scenario but as long as the previous layer is cured and surface has been sanded for mechanical adhesion, it should work just fine.
Well put, I have been thinking about investing in some UV cured finishing products. Vesting wax is the one that I have been looking at. And I feel like after this video that it is still the one that I will start with. Thanks for the great video.
This video was made before I became familiar with hidelberg sold by ledcoatingsolutions. I’ve been using it for a few months and it is superior in depth and clarity compared to the vesting. Not to mention, significantly cheaper. Definitely recommend you give that one a try instead.
@@WoodcraftBySuman thanks, I’ll have to see if it’s available in my area. I’m very interested in the different ceramic coatings too, and how they will hold up to my 4 kids. I was thinking of making my own video on the different ceramic coatings. Although I’m sure you would do a much more thorough job than I. I’d be interested in a collaboration too, if you were up for something like that.
@@WoodcraftBySumanso glad I stumbled on this comment! Have you tried all the sheens? I’m going to be ordering some to finish an antique dining room table. Stuck between semi gloss and gloss. The look of a sheen can vary greatly between product lines (in my experience).
At $200 a liter, it's pricey, but relatively no VOC and extremely quick cure times makes it a winner in almost any type of woodworking. Including my guitars.
Suman - I'm curious how long you let the lacquer cure for before starting your hardness comparison tests? I use a lot of lacquer and am able to manage the VOCs, but the cure time is the thing that always gets me.
@@WoodcraftBySuman That makes a lot of sense. I recently made a tabletop to cover my laundry machine for folding clothes out of some hard maple. I did three coats of lacquer and waited three days before installing it. We keep our powdered detergent in a ceramic jar, and just sliding it back and forth on the table scratched the surface, but only during the first week. After that first week, we don't have any new scratches. That tells me I didn't let it cure long enough, and it seems like it lines up with your week and a half of cure time. Much longer than these UV cured finishes! Thanks for your testing and providing an alternative option - great and practical video.
@@yasso2am agreed! While lacquer is dry to the touch within 30-60 minutes, it gives a false sense of “this stuff will be cured within a day” when that has not been my experience. Which is why I allowed all the finishes to cure a proper amount of time before insulting them with coffee and such.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Appreciate your wisdom, experience, and attention to detail here! I recently tried Old Masters Masters Armor - without the Part B Hardener. I used it on a slim maple shelf that is holding, go figure, all my coffee gear. I let it sit for 24hrs after three coats (scuff sanded in between each and finished at 400 grit) and really enjoyed the application without having to wear a respirator (and so did my wife). That said, it definitely required more skill to apply without getting streaks, and I doubt it will be as durable as lacquer. As I gain experience, I'm starting to learn which projects are worth the hassle, and I think what you've presented here will probably be added to my tool belt. Thanks again!
Interesting. But what if I live in Florida and work in a garage. I'm assuming I would have to be wary and block the sunlight during application otherwise I would risk curing during the application process?
Yes, you definitely cannot apply the finish in direct inflight or probably even by a window with strong directional sunlight coming in. Just about any shades on windows is plenty to block UV rays because they cannot penetrate though.
@@aranha_discotecathey do not block it completely. At least none of the windows in my house does. But UV is strongest with direct exposure to sun without interference. If they have to go though a thick medium, they’re usually not happy about it. Even the little window bug screen and the glass can cut a 2.2mw/cm2 down to 0.6mw/cm2. It’s enough to make sure sun light doesn’t directly touch the finish as you are applying it. Any diffused light that’s not coming straight from the sun though a window is not an issue.
Great testing overall, though one point you're missing when comparing hard wax oils to UV cured coatings: the latter, as with polyurethane coatings, coats your work in a layer of plastic that will never really break down or go away, but rather disperse into the environment as microplastics. Of course the overall impact of this is minuscule compared to, say, acrylic paints doing the same, but it's still a significant negative aspect of those finishes.
I don’t see a link to the UV Beast flashlight, only for the two square UV lights. Do you only recommend purchasing that $30 light and holding it for 30 seconds ~3 in away over the flashlight and its wonky pattern?
Just updated the description to make sure the link is there. The funky pattern of the UVBeast is not ideal but as you move it around, it averages out pretty well. With that being said, they make a slightly less powerful one with a much better spread pattern: amzn.to/49QjIoJ
I’m surprised the laquer had a coffee stain? We have our coffee station on an oak buffet table and coffee stains can stay on it for days…but no stains when cleaned off. Or maybe it’s my weak-ass coffee 😂
Hey quick question. Would full spectrum uv grow lights work for this ? Assuming it would take a little longer but just slide your finished product under it and walk away for like 15 minutes
Funny enough, I have some Mars Hydro grow lights for the garden and just checked them. Unfortunately they don’t seem to be outputting any measurable. UV light within the A spectrum.
Would you recommend using a carbon coat on top of the UV cured finish the same as you would a hard wax oil? Also does leaving a piece to cure in the sun embed dust, pollen, bugs, etc, or does it cure fast enough that it's not much of a concern?
For sure. The side table shown in the video was finished with chemiver uv finish and then I added carbon coat. Usually you have to wait few days until the finish is fully cured to add ceramic coating but with uv cure, you can apply it on the same day. Finish hardens to the touch almost immediately in the sun. Def not an issue with contaminants, however, it would help make sure the air is reasonably clean.
Price is still a huge barrier. But believe it will become as common as Rubio after folks have a chance to try them out and the lights are made cheaper. A little bird told me there might be some new American made lights in the market in coming year 😉
Who is the manufacturer of your big gun "hockey Stick" light? Is it UV TAo Yuan light your smaller 50w light? Also what are the light intensities (watts per cm²) of both these lights. Im trying to talk myself into an investment here :)
Yup- the small 50w is UVTaoYuan brand. Spits out (guesstimating a little as I’m not in the shop) abojt 150-200mJ/cm2 at a spread of about 6x6”. The bigger gun is closer to 300mJ/cm2 but has a spread of 26”x6” ish area. If you want one gun to rule them all, it’s definitely the hockey stick. Much better cooling and serious output that will let you cure a 4x8’ surface in about a minute. The smaller light is excellent if you do medium/small projects.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Thanks! The I went on UVTaYuan's website and i found the smaller light but couldnt find the Hockey stick. I found one that was similar to it but only had 3 or 4 modular lights on the underside and one at the tip unlike yours which has 7 lights on the underside and one at the tip.
@@pctatc66 yea the hockey stick is made by some other company. I got mine from LEDcoatingsolutions. The smaller one with less led module is really good as well. Can get into tighter spaces for internal parts of a furniture. But I def love my hockey stick the most.
I see the smaller gun is down to the $650 range. How fast is that gun or would you wait and step up to the extra large cure light like you now have? I may have to sell my Vac Sys System that has been sitting around not being used. or maybe my Fancy 3d printer with AMS hub! you wouldnt care to sell your small hand held light would ya? lol
@@pctatc66 the extra large curing light is suitable if you do big projects often. A dining table top can be cured with it in a matter of 2 minutes. The small gun is very good for smaller projects and occasional larger project. I like it for the portability and want to keep it for that reason.
btw, ordered a liter of the Heidelberg in Gloss and the cheapo Amazon light. Ty for your patience and helping me with all my questions! I know I helped your analytics just a little bit :) lol
I have to take issue with your classifying film (I assume this includes lacquer) finishes as Hard with regard to Ease of Application and Cost of Entry. That just isn't my experience with spray lacquer.
That's a fair assessment. There are ways to get into lacquer spraying on the cheap (ie harbor freight compressor and gun). While I could have made it more clear in the video, I still believe the average woodworker are intimidated by all of the HVLP options and skills to get started and they are much more likely to pick up a wipe on finish because it is an easier concept to grasp. Nonetheless, your point is valid.
Wow Some of these are similarly priced like Clean Armor which I have been researching. Would you know what the differences are between these products and Clean Armor as well as Solarez that someone mentioned below? side note.. been doing a little more research. Clean Armor is a polymer finish meaning thicker and tougher but also a more plastic type of finish. Its probably much harder and repels aviation grade paint strippers, acetone all the way down to water. Its your more durable finish however you are giving up that natural wood look. I think Clean Armor is perfect for Shop Furniture and that where I intend on using it. Im just about done building a 14' miter station and this is the perfect finish for the top and also the cabinets. From what I hear its more durable that polyurethane and provides the same or better slickness. When you are sliding rough cut lumber down a table top, durability wins out over the plastic look. I could be wrong, would be interested to hear your thoughts on clean armor and the best places for its use
I haven’t used clean armor but that’s my understanding: it lays a little thick. Any of the finishes I’ve shown here will resist acetone and paint strippers. I recommend going with hidelberg that I didn’t show here. It’s an even better product and much cheaper. That’s what I’ve been using since I found it. Check the video description for links. Keep in mind, it is a very hard finish. While great for furnitures, for shop use, it can show scratch marks because you’re often being a lot more rough on shop surfaces than a home furniture. It’s still def one of the most durable finish I’ve used to date.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Ill check it out but with shop furniture wouldn't you want a thicker finish almost plastic like? Also what's the coverage per qt/lt of the Hidelberg? I know Clean Armor boasts a little over 400 sq feet of coverage at one mil per Qt. 400 sq feet is just over 6 4x8 sheets of plywood front and back. ouch just priced some Hidelburg and it ends up MORE expensive than Clean Armor. They company that sells this stuff is charging $105 for the product $7 bucks for shipping $5 for tax but adds on a whopping $35 "PACKAGING" fee so it ends up slightly more expensive than Clean Armor. So with price being equivalent which is best for my needs. I know Clean Armor wants you to use the CUVO lights which are designed to have a uv rating of 1-3 mili watts per sq centimeter. Though I have seen the inventor use lights in the range of 7-10 milli watts (at range of 4 feet or so) Ive heard bad things about using too strong a UV light in that it can BOIL the finish and cause wrinkling,. Have you seen any of this with Hidelburg and your uv light? or how bout with some of the cheaper UV lights you have recommended on AMAZON? I know I have a million questions but his stuff is too expensive between the material and the lighting to get wrong!
@@pctatc66 I suppose. But it really depends on what you’re looking for and your use case for the shop project. If it helps- I use Heidelberg on my traditional woodworking workbench. It’s durable but still gets scratched up from day to day use. I re apply the coat every once in a long while and have had no complaints. I’d be curious to know what the coverage is like for the clean armor product. The vesting and Heidelberg is similar to hardwax oils.
@@pctatc66 Looks like i missed some questions there. Coverage is very similar to hardwax oils like rubio monocoat. So think of this as 1L of rubio monocoat. I didn't realize the vendor adds a packaging cost. That's unfortunate. As far as light goes: you CAN use cheap LED lights from amazon but it takes a long exposure time. Cuvo lights are probably fine but they seem underpowered based on the specs I can see online. But I have heard many people using it successfully. I personally really like the black portable handheld light gun the most. Best balance of power and cost. Keep in mind - LED power draw ratings are not necessarily indicative of UV output ratings. Many of the instruments produce a lot of heat. So wattage draw is not a 1:1 relationship with UV output. As for too much light and wrinkling - i have not seen that issue with any of the LED finishes I have used. In fact, I haven't seen it on the resin stuff either.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Apparently TH-cam censors didn't like what I just posted and never published it. Sometimes I think this would be better to take offline and have a direct email exchange but then I remember that others will be reading this and gaining useful knowledge because Im sure Im not the only one with the same questions! So here we go, hopefully the YT censors approve! Im sold on the Heidelberg finish as I just checked out your recent IG series on using their product! The finish looks amazing. My question now comes down to lighting. I really don't want to spend upwards of $650 for a handheld light. The Cuvo light that I was going to buy for use on the Clean Armor was $300. From what I understand Clean armor was specifically designed to require a 2 minute cure so the Cuvo lights were made to accommodate that 2 minute cure time. My hunch and its only a hunch is that since Clean Armor is a thicker product it requires a more even and longer curing time. So back on topic. Im very interested in the $33 amazon lights you posted above. Have you used this light with the Heidelberg product? If so, what kind of dry times did you see and how large is the cure pattern? Do you have any other recommendations for lights in the sub $300 range? Maybe one day I'll be doing enough UV Cure finishing that I can justify the $2500 light but until then, Id like to not break the bank! Thanks again for your time as always.
What about the smell? From my own experience, UV 3D printed items smell horrible for days, even though they have been cured as per manufacturer's instructions. Any chance you could do a smell comparison between some generic clear 3d printer uv resin and these wood finish resins? 😅
lol unfortunately there isn’t a smell sensor I could use to standardize the test. But yes, some of the uv resin smells a bit. The chiniver has a stronger smell than vesting but none are as offending compared with any traditional finishes.
![[DRIP] ‘BILLIONAIRE’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m0eXQD0gIeE/mqdefault.jpg)
If you are interested in trying out Carbon Method's Ceramic Nanofinish, this kit is all you need to get started: carbonmethod.com/ceramic-nanofinish-quick-kit/
It seems to me very much like a bpa/pfoa thing, where its that hydrophobic.
I am skeptical of the safety.
@@interdimensionalsailboat it’s not meant for high heat or direct food contact application. When applying the finish, appropriate respirators and gloves should be worn. It is my understanding that ceramic coatings are inert under normal use and circumstances once cured. With that being said, it’s always a good idea to be skeptical of safety and health implications.
I am so glad that you covered this. I've been tempted to invest in the UV cured finishes since I first saw Cam use one on Blacktail Studio, but I couldn't justify the cost to try a replacement for finishes that already work for my purposes. During the video, I was just waiting for you to introduce the free UV option, and greatly appreciate that you were thorough with all of the options. Once again, great content, excellent editing, and superb jokes! With how concise you keep your videos, especially considering how much time, effort and $$$ you put into them, I think you'll have 100K subscribers by the end of the year!
Thanks Aaron! I really wish vesting made a 200mL or anything less than 500mL option for people to try the finish because it really is spectacular! But being able to cure the stuff so quickly is an absolute game changer in how I have been approaching finishing lately. I MIGHT even refinish my previously lacquered dining table while still IN the house because the VOCs are negligible enough with cross ventilation in the summer time. I don't think i'll be using any other finishes going forward unless its a weird shaped objects where spraying makes the most sense. Def recommend trying it out. Same goes for the ceramic nano finish products. While it is an ad in the video and there is a possibility of bias, I am really digging it so far.
Nicely done man! I stumbled on your video after looking into UV finishes and learned a ton. Thank you!
The review is great! So thorough and clear and straightforward. I’ve been following woodworking channels for years but this is the first I’ve seen of you. Grateful to have found you!
Excellent and honest disclaimer about your past relationship with Chimiver. Far too often content makers provide inadequate disclosures. I appreciate how you acknowledge the past relationship and while noting that you 'do your best' to provide an unbiased review, which leaves room for the possibility of bias. This is the first video of yours that ive watched where you have a sponsor. It made me nervous because of how much I value attempts at objective assessment. Might see silly by I appreciate the language you use in your financial disclosure statement. Confidence restored!
Thank you! I really appreciate your comment. I generally have a rule to not include any sponsored products in objective testing parts of my videos. In fact, JDiction had reached out few months ago and I declined to work with them because I knew their product would be included in this video. Unfortunately I couldn't go back in time to retract the Chimiver relationship for this video. haha.
I have been experimenting with hobby grade uv resins for guitar building and wood finishing. I have tried solarez, jdiction, and “ nicpro uv resin” brands. Understand they are different, craft uv resins are epoxy/acrylic while the solarez is acrylic modified polyester. Polyester by nature is much harder.
I bought a 300w 385nm, yes I said 385nm panel for $85 on amazon and attached to a mic boom arm so I could move it around at different angles.
What you will find is because uv cure resins are oxygen inhibited, only some resins get hard when applying thin layers. Jdiction for example dries hard but only with thicker layers. If you want a rock hard scratch resistant surface that lays down beautifully, try solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer grain filler/sealer brush on.
I have used this both as sealer and a finish because it’s hardness and sand ability is much greater than craft uv resins.
Here is real kicker you can actually make your own or buy acrylic modified or strait polyester uv resin for $85 a gallon at most surf shops. It’s been manufactured by a company called simlar for years. You can thin it and even add mekp if you want to dual cure. One thing to note is that if you use mekp it’s not low voc anymore. Good video keep experimenting.
That’s great! Thank you for your insights and wisdom. I’ll defiantly have to check out the solarez products
Yep have been using direct sunlight all summer for my tabletops, works great.
Not much I can say that haven't been said in the comments already. But damn dude this video has so much good information i feel like i have to watch it a few times over. Got yourself a sub sir 💪
Back in the day I used a fluorescent tube uv light for erasing EEPROMs.
It was super cheap - just a few bucks. Just a typical 12 or 18" tube that fit in a compact fluorescent fixture (like you might use for under cabinet lighting).
I believe I got the tube from some beauty supply or something like that. They are/were used for sanitizing clippers, brushes, etc.
I don't know the wavelengths it produced but it worked quickly for EEPROMs, and could also give you a suntan 🙂
A lot less fancy than LEDs, but a whole lot cheaper.
Remove (or never apply) the phosphor coating inside the tube, and every fluorescent lamp is a UV source.
There is another product, same design, I think was featured on StumpyNubs channel. The videos I came across showed using $300-$400 UV lights on a timer for approximately 5 minutes to get a full cure. Another factor not mentioned in your video and I see in the comments is people scoffing at the price. One needs to factor in the fact that the product is basically 100% solids and will cover approximately 4X’s the area and eliminates the need to build up 5 coats for the same thickness of protection and is available in a gloss or satin finish.
wtf man, you're like dr huberman for woodworking. all your vids are a treasure. thank you
Very good info right here! I am soly a UV finisher now.
Haha. I’m so glad you like it and you’re a full convert now!
I feel like I can always trust your rigor and competency in the scientific method. Great video, again.
I can always trust you for a good laugh. Thanks John!
Another great informative video Suman! 👍🏻 I recently used Rubio Pure on ambrosia maple and I hated it. After a bit of testing myself I switching to Rubio 5% white. It gave the maple a more “natural” look and removed the yellowing color.
Thanks for this video and information! Gotta say; I love the tech toys you have to make this video, my kind of jam.
Excellent video! Looks like there’s another entrant on the market: Clean Armor
Thanks for the primer! This really is an exciting new development for the shop.
Combine this channel with project farm and you have a lot of science going on. Check out the paper towel episode specifically for disposable yet reusable lint free paper towels- some kind of aerospace wipes made perfectly for this type of thing
I love his channel! Also checked out the video you recommended. Going to get some of the wipes and try them out. Appreciate ya!
@@WoodcraftBySumancan you link the towels?
Wonderful video - thank you so much for taking the time to share what have learned with the rest us!
Dude. What a great video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
I use expensive industrial coatings, but man.... that uv cure hardwax oil seems really nice to use.
I totally get the appeal of catalyzed stuff in production settings. But I’m gonna def stick touch cure finishes for majority of projects.
Thanks for the super detailed information. Looks like a lot of work went into this one.
Hey man excellent work! I actually did a mini review of the UV beast light in my first YT video. I used the 2 which isnt as strong but gets better coverage. Then I bought the V3 which you use here and found that, even though it's stronger it ended up taking longer because the cone of light it so small. So I use the V2 now since my builds are always on the larger side. Looking forward to more content from you!
The point about the size of the most powerful light having such a small exposure area can't be stressed enough, I think. If you have deep pours like you demonstrated that need significant exposure to fully cure deep down in there, then that power must be crucial. But otherwise, if it's a project of any size you're finishing, you'll be spending similar times curing the finish with the light gun as with the cheaper lights or sunlight. The difference is that with the light gun, you'll be occupied with curing the finish the whole time, whereas with the cheaper lights or sunlight you can spend that time cleaning, or applying finish to another project, or checking your fantasy curling team, or anything else.
Fantastic video brother. Can't wait until these finishes are commonplace. You know one of the big box brands like Varathane or Minwax has to be sprinting to market right now.
I'm surprised at how little time it takes in the sun, that's amazing! Sounds like something worth trying out now that I know that.
Thanks for putting the time to figure this type of stuff out....I do get lost in some of your technical mumbo jumbo but trust your conclusions. Awesome video as always!!!!
Fantastic video as always. Definitely going to look into using these!
Great video. Now this may sound silly but how do these UV cure finishes hold up long term to sunlight exposure. Walnut can turn orangish and maple turn yellowish when exposed to sunlight long term with hard wax finishes. I would also love to see a longer torture test for water damage with to these UV finishes
As I understand it, once they crystallize from the initial UV exposure, they become inert to additional UV insult. The initial heavy loading of UV light def yellows it a tiny bit more than usual and then returns within a few hours into the samples as shown in the video. Not yet sure how it would yellow over time. I’ll keep the samples at hand and keep an eye on them.
big fan of how you test and make your videos. have any thoughts on clean armor? seems like it is zero VOCs and can be applied, say, in your living room and then taken outside to cure.
Great video and testing dude, thanks for posting! I had no idea those hardwax uv finishes were a thing. Curing in seconds is a gamechanger.
For sure! I didn’t really start to appreciate them until recently and had been a major change in my shop.
ALWAYS so interesting! Thanks for your work on this.
My pleasure! Thank you for watching 🙌
Really excellent information. Thanks!
I'm aware of at least one brand of UV-curing resin available in the US that you didn't mention: Solarez, whose I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer product sees use at least on finishing guitars.
Great test. Thank you for your time and effort.
Glad you liked it!
Great video Suman. Asking a question as a serious hobby woodworker (which I admit means I don't know much about finishing beyond what I have learned from other hobbyists, books, magazines, and TH-cam): Would you consider doing a glue resistance test? Parts of any project could be prefinished to prevent glue adherence when doing glue-up and assembly if the UV cured finish is 'glue resistant'. Thanks in advance.
Always great! Thank you!!
Do you think any of these will work as a heat resistant finish? Let’s say, I put a hot pot on it?
Good information, as usual! 😊
Well delivered as always sir! Looking forward to the next one :)
Thank you! 😊
Is it, scratch proof, and uv proof, meaning sunlight won't affect the wood color?
Great presentation of information as always! Although… I could not stop looking at how your French cleat wall looks uneven with your workbench line. 😂
Now I’m going to think about it all day 😂
@@WoodcraftBySuman lol. You know I love you!
All the examples were about finishing on bare wood. What about say, a mahogany dining room table where you want to fill the grain and stain?
What is the clean up/reducing agent for Heidelberg Prolignum? btw, LED Coating solutions is now out of all forms of Heidelburg LED oil. Hopefully they restock soon! I emailed them about restocking. Ill let you know what they say
Will you please do an update to this on Clean Armor 750/757 tabletop finish as well? I want to know more about that one as it compares to these others as well. It seems a little more bullet proof as compared to the oils (more like a traditional finish).
Given how poorly this video performed, unlikely that I will make a video on this subject again. With that being said, I don’t think clean armor is that much different than vesting or Heidelberg in terms of durability. Personally I’m using only Heidelberg products at the moment and it seems more durable than lacquer and without any affect from solvents like alcohol/acetone.
That was great. Thanks!
Kind of off topic, but what's the go to literature that any aspiring and overly motivated woodworker needs to read? Any must haves that need to be in any woodshop? Im trying to start growing my general knowledge about woodworking past what TH-cam can teach me. Thanks in advance
Thanks Suman. Great video. I really appreciate this information. I had heard of UV finishes, but hadn't seen much about them. I think at this point I'm ready to do some testing of my own. The VOC scores are a major plus, so thank you for providing that information. I think I'll be using the "free cure" method!!! ;)
Works well on small flat surfaces. What about ornately carves antique pieces such as an eastlake dresser?
As long as the light can touch it, it should work the same. The finish lays similar to traditional hardwax oil. Though, disclaimer is: I have not extensively used it on ornate surfaces. The finish is a lot more durable than most options out there. I have been using it on furnitures around the house and it’s holding up better than lacquer so far. Which is wild to me.
As an Australian, I feel I may have a slight unfair advantage over the rest of the world when it comes to the rate of curing UV resins outside. For once I am grateful for the thinned out ozone layer above Australia and the consequent insane UV index.
Great video, Suman! Always excited when you post a video as I know it's going to be top notch quality. I was unaware of UV finishes and will definitely see if I can get my hands on some.
Do you think the finishes yellow over time like clear resins do?
lol so I looked into some research studies on geographical spread of UV exposure in preparation for this video. Yall wild out there freeballing it in Australia 😂
@@WoodcraftBySuman I know right!
Only the insane or uneducated are at the beach late morning to early afternoon.
We had a Danish exchange student in my PhD lab who found out about Aussie sun the hard way. He went to the beach without sunscreen or proper cover for a few hours.
He ended up with second and third degree burns. I felt so bad for him too because none of us in the lab group had a chat with him about how intense our sunlight is. He had an ongoing list of things that tried to kill him while he was in Australia. He added the sun to that list after that day.
@@matthysloedolff haha even the sun tries to kill you in Australia. That’s a hilariously funny addition to the list.
@@WoodcraftBySuman yes. It's a miracle in itself that our population is steadily increasing.
Awesome content as usual Suman, thank you!
Great video, Suman! Were those cans in the video quart size? $200 for a quart seems awful steep.
Yes- essentially it’s 1qt but is actually 1L. It’s pricy but just as hardwax oils go, it has great coverage. Think of it with the same coverage as Rubio monocoat.
I appreciate your honesty about all metrics. Pick one. At least it’s all honest
I really try my best. I’m glad you see it. Thank you!
Oh man, I was really hoping you were about to dive into DIY LED kits. The moment I saw that first Blacktail video I was thinking there has to be a cheaper way to make that light using DIY parts.
I’m not as electrically savvy as I may seem 😂
Outstanding breakdown as always!!
Much appreciated! Thank you!
You talk about the safety of VOCs, but UV light exposure is also dangerous, especially for the eyes' cornea
UV light exposure in the A band is perfectly safe. Its the other two bands B and C that are dangerous.
theres a product called clean armor as well, seems like the same type of uv cured finish
Really great video, thanks Suman!
Do you have any figures of merit to explain the amount of area coverage each container provides so that you could compare the costs of these finishes as currency/cm^2. Really love how you organize these experiments and the honesty in the way you present your data.
Chimiver claims 10-20 grams per m2
Vesting claims 20-26 grams per m2 for 1st coat and 10 grams per m2 for second coat.
There is a lot of technical data you can get into but from experience, coverage is comparable with traditional hardwax oils. First coat probably takes a little more than normal hardwax oil but second coat takes less than usual.
Great job, i think. Using the flash light for the underside and putting the piece in the Florida sun to cure the top might work for me.
Have a look at UV MSLA resin printing tips for more info on resin curing quirks
Thanks, inspiring. Did I miss it or did you not talk at all about coverage? Huge impact on cost. Also… been following for a while and always thought you were Canadian… you’ve got that easy going friendliness.
Sorry I didn’t elaborate on coverage. It’s similar to hardwax oils. Which is why the price per L comparison was made.
And lol, first time being considered a Canadian. I live close enough to go to occasional dinners in Canada if that counts 😂
@@WoodcraftBySuman I think Drew/Jon/Scott or someone made reference to you being “up north” and somehow I just thought you were on the other side of the border… well that and the delightfully friendly tone of your videos it just seemed to reinforce that wrong assumption. Btw, I think maybe you don’t even realize it, but it’s obvious to the rest of us that you only really like the the UV finishes because of the _purple_ light….
@@jb510 did I make this entire video because UV lights are purple? Maybe…😂
We will have to wait and see if UV cured resins for woodworkers survive. One thing to mention is Natura Onecoat 2 pack hard wax oil. It beat Rubio in the tests carried out by the Wood Whisperer and is much cheaper than Rubio.
On ceramic coatings. Does the ceramic coating flex at all; just as wood does?
Sorry if anyone asked. Or it was covered. I scrolled a little. But all these Uv’s can go over Rubio and such?
I haven’t specifically tested this scenario but as long as the previous layer is cured and surface has been sanded for mechanical adhesion, it should work just fine.
Well put, I have been thinking about investing in some UV cured finishing products. Vesting wax is the one that I have been looking at. And I feel like after this video that it is still the one that I will start with. Thanks for the great video.
This video was made before I became familiar with hidelberg sold by ledcoatingsolutions. I’ve been using it for a few months and it is superior in depth and clarity compared to the vesting. Not to mention, significantly cheaper. Definitely recommend you give that one a try instead.
@@WoodcraftBySuman thanks, I’ll have to see if it’s available in my area. I’m very interested in the different ceramic coatings too, and how they will hold up to my 4 kids. I was thinking of making my own video on the different ceramic coatings. Although I’m sure you would do a much more thorough job than I. I’d be interested in a collaboration too, if you were up for something like that.
@@WoodcraftBySumanso glad I stumbled on this comment! Have you tried all the sheens? I’m going to be ordering some to finish an antique dining room table. Stuck between semi gloss and gloss. The look of a sheen can vary greatly between product lines (in my experience).
Haha I use JDiction UV resins for my resin crafts. Just a note….its not JD Diction it’s just JDiction. The creator Jay has a resin addition.
Haha that was a massive oversight on my part. How did I keep calling it JD Diction the whole time? I’ll never know 😂
Always appreciating my dose of information with Suman
1 shot. Q6wk. PRN. 😂
Great video man I am looking to switch and wanted to know if it would work with a cheaper light! Thanks for that
Would be interested in seeing how 3D Printer UV Resins would compare to these, would be a huge price difference heh.
Will it stick to common pore fillers (I use epoxy and CA mostly, but will use oil based fillers occasionally).
Last week when I looked for the tinted vesting finishes, they were not available(in stock) on their website
At $200 a liter, it's pricey, but relatively no VOC and extremely quick cure times makes it a winner in almost any type of woodworking. Including my guitars.
You can see that the board with the Chemivir has cupped from water entering and expanding the top surface…
Suman - I'm curious how long you let the lacquer cure for before starting your hardness comparison tests? I use a lot of lacquer and am able to manage the VOCs, but the cure time is the thing that always gets me.
Lacquer cured one and half week before testing.
@@WoodcraftBySuman That makes a lot of sense. I recently made a tabletop to cover my laundry machine for folding clothes out of some hard maple. I did three coats of lacquer and waited three days before installing it. We keep our powdered detergent in a ceramic jar, and just sliding it back and forth on the table scratched the surface, but only during the first week. After that first week, we don't have any new scratches. That tells me I didn't let it cure long enough, and it seems like it lines up with your week and a half of cure time. Much longer than these UV cured finishes! Thanks for your testing and providing an alternative option - great and practical video.
@@yasso2am agreed! While lacquer is dry to the touch within 30-60 minutes, it gives a false sense of “this stuff will be cured within a day” when that has not been my experience. Which is why I allowed all the finishes to cure a proper amount of time before insulting them with coffee and such.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Appreciate your wisdom, experience, and attention to detail here! I recently tried Old Masters Masters Armor - without the Part B Hardener. I used it on a slim maple shelf that is holding, go figure, all my coffee gear. I let it sit for 24hrs after three coats (scuff sanded in between each and finished at 400 grit) and really enjoyed the application without having to wear a respirator (and so did my wife). That said, it definitely required more skill to apply without getting streaks, and I doubt it will be as durable as lacquer. As I gain experience, I'm starting to learn which projects are worth the hassle, and I think what you've presented here will probably be added to my tool belt. Thanks again!
Interesting. But what if I live in Florida and work in a garage. I'm assuming I would have to be wary and block the sunlight during application otherwise I would risk curing during the application process?
Yes, you definitely cannot apply the finish in direct inflight or probably even by a window with strong directional sunlight coming in. Just about any shades on windows is plenty to block UV rays because they cannot penetrate though.
A very good question - does normal window glass block the correct kind of UV light?
Based on Suman's reply I would say No. Definitely a point worth going over though.
@@aranha_discotecathey do not block it completely. At least none of the windows in my house does. But UV is strongest with direct exposure to sun without interference. If they have to go though a thick medium, they’re usually not happy about it. Even the little window bug screen and the glass can cut a 2.2mw/cm2 down to 0.6mw/cm2. It’s enough to make sure sun light doesn’t directly touch the finish as you are applying it. Any diffused light that’s not coming straight from the sun though a window is not an issue.
Thanks!
Great info
Curious about cure time on the UV finishes if you miss a spot with the UV light?
Great testing overall, though one point you're missing when comparing hard wax oils to UV cured coatings: the latter, as with polyurethane coatings, coats your work in a layer of plastic that will never really break down or go away, but rather disperse into the environment as microplastics. Of course the overall impact of this is minuscule compared to, say, acrylic paints doing the same, but it's still a significant negative aspect of those finishes.
I don’t see a link to the UV Beast flashlight, only for the two square UV lights. Do you only recommend purchasing that $30 light and holding it for 30 seconds ~3 in away over the flashlight and its wonky pattern?
Just updated the description to make sure the link is there. The funky pattern of the UVBeast is not ideal but as you move it around, it averages out pretty well. With that being said, they make a slightly less powerful one with a much better spread pattern: amzn.to/49QjIoJ
@@WoodcraftBySuman Thanks for the update! This video convinced me to go with vesting. Thank you!
Compared to other finishes, does anyone know how this yellows wood in time?
What is the shelf life of these led oil finishes? I really hate the rubio 2 part system.
Super cool as always!
Thank you! Cheers!
Ever used Clean Armor?
I'm just here to complain about opening paint cans with a quality wood chisel. Oh, the humanity....
An expensive hand-forged japanese damascus chisel at that 😂
I’m surprised the laquer had a coffee stain? We have our coffee station on an oak buffet table and coffee stains can stay on it for days…but no stains when cleaned off. Or maybe it’s my weak-ass coffee 😂
It is 100% your diluted weak coffee 😂
Very interesting and informative video Suman! 👍👍
Glad you liked it! Thank you 🙌
Aayyyy, I'm in western New York too
Hey quick question. Would full spectrum uv grow lights work for this ? Assuming it would take a little longer but just slide your finished product under it and walk away for like 15 minutes
Funny enough, I have some Mars Hydro grow lights for the garden and just checked them. Unfortunately they don’t seem to be outputting any measurable. UV light within the A spectrum.
Would you recommend using a carbon coat on top of the UV cured finish the same as you would a hard wax oil? Also does leaving a piece to cure in the sun embed dust, pollen, bugs, etc, or does it cure fast enough that it's not much of a concern?
For sure. The side table shown in the video was finished with chemiver uv finish and then I added carbon coat. Usually you have to wait few days until the finish is fully cured to add ceramic coating but with uv cure, you can apply it on the same day.
Finish hardens to the touch almost immediately in the sun. Def not an issue with contaminants, however, it would help make sure the air is reasonably clean.
Hey, Suman. Everyone. Just something to share Vesting does have a line of color oil. 24 as a basic set plus custom.
th-cam.com/video/en-D-SVj74E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rEKNpYwjjr66RRCU
You are right! I did not know this at the time of making this video. Thank you for sharing
You didn't test or mention Solarez. Why?
It’s curious why this hasn’t gone public, so to speak, until now as uv-curing applications have been used in dentistry for decades 🤓
Price is still a huge barrier. But believe it will become as common as Rubio after folks have a chance to try them out and the lights are made cheaper. A little bird told me there might be some new American made lights in the market in coming year 😉
Who is the manufacturer of your big gun "hockey Stick" light? Is it UV TAo Yuan light your smaller 50w light? Also what are the light intensities (watts per cm²) of both these lights. Im trying to talk myself into an investment here :)
Yup- the small 50w is UVTaoYuan brand. Spits out (guesstimating a little as I’m not in the shop) abojt 150-200mJ/cm2 at a spread of about 6x6”. The bigger gun is closer to 300mJ/cm2 but has a spread of 26”x6” ish area. If you want one gun to rule them all, it’s definitely the hockey stick. Much better cooling and serious output that will let you cure a 4x8’ surface in about a minute. The smaller light is excellent if you do medium/small projects.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Thanks! The I went on UVTaYuan's website and i found the smaller light but couldnt find the Hockey stick. I found one that was similar to it but only had 3 or 4 modular lights on the underside and one at the tip unlike yours which has 7 lights on the underside and one at the tip.
@@pctatc66 yea the hockey stick is made by some other company. I got mine from LEDcoatingsolutions. The smaller one with less led module is really good as well. Can get into tighter spaces for internal parts of a furniture. But I def love my hockey stick the most.
@@WoodcraftBySuman any markings on that hockey stick that point to a manufacturer?
Serbscribed. Keep up the great work!
Reference the apple wood table you refinished.. Did you use gloss or semi gloss?
I used gloss for the apple wood table on Instagram. It lays down more like semi gloss.
I see the smaller gun is down to the $650 range. How fast is that gun or would you wait and step up to the extra large cure light like you now have? I may have to sell my Vac Sys System that has been sitting around not being used. or maybe my Fancy 3d printer with AMS hub! you wouldnt care to sell your small hand held light would ya? lol
@@pctatc66 the extra large curing light is suitable if you do big projects often. A dining table top can be cured with it in a matter of 2 minutes. The small gun is very good for smaller projects and occasional larger project. I like it for the portability and want to keep it for that reason.
btw, ordered a liter of the Heidelberg in Gloss and the cheapo Amazon light. Ty for your patience and helping me with all my questions! I know I helped your analytics just a little bit :) lol
I have to take issue with your classifying film (I assume this includes lacquer) finishes as Hard with regard to Ease of Application and Cost of Entry. That just isn't my experience with spray lacquer.
That's a fair assessment. There are ways to get into lacquer spraying on the cheap (ie harbor freight compressor and gun). While I could have made it more clear in the video, I still believe the average woodworker are intimidated by all of the HVLP options and skills to get started and they are much more likely to pick up a wipe on finish because it is an easier concept to grasp. Nonetheless, your point is valid.
Great video as always
Appreciate that. Thank you 🙌
Will these new finishes work on paint and/or stain?
following...
Is there a food safe up cure
Wow Some of these are similarly priced like Clean Armor which I have been researching. Would you know what the differences are between these products and Clean Armor as well as Solarez that someone mentioned below? side note.. been doing a little more research. Clean Armor is a polymer finish meaning thicker and tougher but also a more plastic type of finish. Its probably much harder and repels aviation grade paint strippers, acetone all the way down to water. Its your more durable finish however you are giving up that natural wood look. I think Clean Armor is perfect for Shop Furniture and that where I intend on using it. Im just about done building a 14' miter station and this is the perfect finish for the top and also the cabinets. From what I hear its more durable that polyurethane and provides the same or better slickness. When you are sliding rough cut lumber down a table top, durability wins out over the plastic look. I could be wrong, would be interested to hear your thoughts on clean armor and the best places for its use
I haven’t used clean armor but that’s my understanding: it lays a little thick. Any of the finishes I’ve shown here will resist acetone and paint strippers. I recommend going with hidelberg that I didn’t show here. It’s an even better product and much cheaper. That’s what I’ve been using since I found it. Check the video description for links. Keep in mind, it is a very hard finish. While great for furnitures, for shop use, it can show scratch marks because you’re often being a lot more rough on shop surfaces than a home furniture. It’s still def one of the most durable finish I’ve used to date.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Ill check it out but with shop furniture wouldn't you want a thicker finish almost plastic like? Also what's the coverage per qt/lt of the Hidelberg? I know Clean Armor boasts a little over 400 sq feet of coverage at one mil per Qt. 400 sq feet is just over 6 4x8 sheets of plywood front and back. ouch just priced some Hidelburg and it ends up MORE expensive than Clean Armor. They company that sells this stuff is charging $105 for the product $7 bucks for shipping $5 for tax but adds on a whopping $35 "PACKAGING" fee so it ends up slightly more expensive than Clean Armor. So with price being equivalent which is best for my needs. I know Clean Armor wants you to use the CUVO lights which are designed to have a uv rating of 1-3 mili watts per sq centimeter. Though I have seen the inventor use lights in the range of 7-10 milli watts (at range of 4 feet or so) Ive heard bad things about using too strong a UV light in that it can BOIL the finish and cause wrinkling,. Have you seen any of this with Hidelburg and your uv light? or how bout with some of the cheaper UV lights you have recommended on AMAZON? I know I have a million questions but his stuff is too expensive between the material and the lighting to get wrong!
@@pctatc66 I suppose. But it really depends on what you’re looking for and your use case for the shop project. If it helps- I use Heidelberg on my traditional woodworking workbench. It’s durable but still gets scratched up from day to day use. I re apply the coat every once in a long while and have had no complaints. I’d be curious to know what the coverage is like for the clean armor product. The vesting and Heidelberg is similar to hardwax oils.
@@pctatc66 Looks like i missed some questions there. Coverage is very similar to hardwax oils like rubio monocoat. So think of this as 1L of rubio monocoat. I didn't realize the vendor adds a packaging cost. That's unfortunate. As far as light goes: you CAN use cheap LED lights from amazon but it takes a long exposure time. Cuvo lights are probably fine but they seem underpowered based on the specs I can see online. But I have heard many people using it successfully. I personally really like the black portable handheld light gun the most. Best balance of power and cost. Keep in mind - LED power draw ratings are not necessarily indicative of UV output ratings. Many of the instruments produce a lot of heat. So wattage draw is not a 1:1 relationship with UV output. As for too much light and wrinkling - i have not seen that issue with any of the LED finishes I have used. In fact, I haven't seen it on the resin stuff either.
@@WoodcraftBySuman Apparently TH-cam censors didn't like what I just posted and never published it. Sometimes I think this would be better to take offline and have a direct email exchange but then I remember that others will be reading this and gaining useful knowledge because Im sure Im not the only one with the same questions! So here we go, hopefully the YT censors approve!
Im sold on the Heidelberg finish as I just checked out your recent IG series on using their product! The finish looks amazing. My question now comes down to lighting. I really don't want to spend upwards of $650 for a handheld light. The Cuvo light that I was going to buy for use on the Clean Armor was $300. From what I understand Clean armor was specifically designed to require a 2 minute cure so the Cuvo lights were made to accommodate that 2 minute cure time. My hunch and its only a hunch is that since Clean Armor is a thicker product it requires a more even and longer curing time. So back on topic. Im very interested in the $33 amazon lights you posted above. Have you used this light with the Heidelberg product? If so, what kind of dry times did you see and how large is the cure pattern? Do you have any other recommendations for lights in the sub $300 range? Maybe one day I'll be doing enough UV Cure finishing that I can justify the $2500 light but until then, Id like to not break the bank! Thanks again for your time as always.
What about the smell? From my own experience, UV 3D printed items smell horrible for days, even though they have been cured as per manufacturer's instructions.
Any chance you could do a smell comparison between some generic clear 3d printer uv resin and these wood finish resins? 😅
lol unfortunately there isn’t a smell sensor I could use to standardize the test. But yes, some of the uv resin smells a bit. The chiniver has a stronger smell than vesting but none are as offending compared with any traditional finishes.