How to repair Fender Deluxe Boutique 5E3 kit tube amp bring it back alive return to stock circuit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- Sent to D-Lab from Paul at Learn electronics (Fellow TH-camr). The amp was a first time project. The build did not go to well. It appears that a lot of troubleshooting had taken place. So it was sent to me to iron out. The amp needed just a few parts. Most of the issues were just in the wiring. Whenever I get into these projects, the best approach is a detailed inspection, then gut it/start over. It is much more time efficient for me rather than attempting to get these going in their current configuration. Fender had it all figured out way back then. Their products will outlive us all! That tells the whole story. Check out learnelectronics channel. He has quite the following.
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Hey guys, you have to live and learn! Paul should have done more reading online on how to dress his wiring and how to run proper grounds. He should also ohm out all connections point to point after soldering to make sure he has good connection and no grounds where they don't belong as he is building the amp. Saves a lot of surprises later! When I built my first hi-fi preamp, I built it to look good not thinking about function. It didn't take long to realize that looks don't count but good grounding and component placement does.
Yes, very sloppy build..he knew just enough to get in a mess,,
Yes..those who criticized the builders work I guess were just perfect on their 1st builds. Good job Terry..I'm sure your customer learned alot for his next build.
Remember this is the internet. Where they're "EXPERTS" at anything and everything you can bring up..
Terry, I had no doubt you were the man to correct my first attempt at scratch built amp (from schematic). Many, many thanks for your hard work. I love it!
Thanks Paul, It was a fun project + allowed me to use the Twilight theme
Lot of snarky comments on here, but I commend you for taking on the project. I'm pretty sure you learned a lot along the way. Thanks to d lab you now have a nice little amp. I suggest you start watching uncle Doug's amp repair channel, he goes into great depth on how to repair and scratch build vintage amps.
You actually got a more-than-fair amount of it right, electronics-wise. Does the schematic say to place spacers under the turret board? No. Does the schematic show the right lugs to solder to on the input jacks? No. Does the schematic say to twist the heater wires to reduce hum? No, indeed, the schematic doesn't even show the heater wires...they are just assumed to be there. Does the schematic show that all signal grounds should be returned to the same point? No, it just shows an arrow to ground as a piece of "shorthand" and assumes you will use "best practices" to get those grounds right. There are lots of things that the schematic assumes you know and will execute; Just like a roadmap doesn't show every stop sign and traffic light on the way from "A" to "B". You can go look at dozens of TH-cam videos of kits that folks built from Heathkit or Dyna or Eico, and 90+% of the time, even with pictorial manuals and verbal step-by-step instructions and all the right number of tie points, most Heath home-built gear
looks like utter crap!
Again, it's not Nobel prize stuff to build circuits well but it takes lots of practice and you have to have looked at many, many pieces of industrial-grade gear to understand what good wiring looks like. And after that it takes a fair amount of practice to cut wires to a good length and how far back you should strip the insulation and on and on.
5E3 still the best tone to this day!
Thank you for your videos. I have learned alot and built 2 fender champ style amps with different issues on each but with your videos I figured out the problems on both. I still dont understand the science behind it but I am learning. Im staying away from the high voltage in my builds so i am safe.
Bless you Terry, for sharing your wisdom with us. We love all you amazing educational tube amp videos. You are so inspirational and exciting to watch over and over gain.
Good job Terry. You're really good at this.
Cool repair, interesting how people spend money on such nice projects, but don't really take the time to inspect each section to make sure it's spot on and they've got it right. Hence the D -Lab Zone..Thanks for sharing your knowledge..Ed..U.K..😊
Lol. Now this brought back great tv memories. Thank you!
Wonderful sir. You are really genius.
Nice save D-Lab!!!
Nice cleanup.
It's a good thing it was joined by wires. The alternatives just bogles the mind.
Great work again Terry, only too bad Snozzaramus don’t came by 😂 👍🏼
That reminds me, I have to finish up my own 5E3 project..
Great video! (I used to 'help' an Advanced Extra Ham (who sold Magnavox Color Televisions, …. And it all disappeared after I left for Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute.)
Are the power tube sockets Belton? If I needed newly made sockets I probably wouldn't use anything else.
They make these special studs which are designed for grounding to a chassis. You would drill a hole just large enough to pass the threads and then cinch it down with a nut until the head is flush to the surface. This causes the teeth pressed into the perimeter of the stud to dig into the metal and produce a permanent connection. They work exceptionally well with aluminium.
@Heads Mess No, they're called self-clinching studs. They are actually made to be installed with a press but using a nut will work just as well.
"D-Lab Zone", indeed!
Nice intro, Rod... Err... Terry!
Nice video
Why do you put the spacers in with the screw trough the chassis? Isnt it easier to have the nuts on the chassis, it seems a lot less fiddly to use screws and screwdriver on the board instead of messing with nuts and wrenches between the components.
I worked on quite a few of these in the past. Pretty simple compared to my usual stuff I work on.
Hello, i got a question regarding safety. I replace a couple of capacitors and a power IC on my Fender FM212R. I'm very apprehensive on pluging it in to my wall socket. What is your advice on doing this correctly without blowing a circuit breaker in my home or get shocke in case i did not do it correctly? I noticed people use a Isolation chamber or a variak... Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Dang it, that aluminum foil in the original was for tone! Kidding, kidding. Nice work.
Do you have any basic working full coverage shortwave receivers for sale? I am looking to get into the lifestyle.
The sinewave looked pretty ratty--are all 5E3 amps like this? I don't think you'll be able to get a nice clean tone out of this one.
The stuff of nightmares.
What’s up with those power transformer bolts at the end? At least one is going through backward from normal, and it looks like there are no nuts between the transformer and chassis. You want to leave those nuts on there for the air gap!
Why? I have seen many stock marshalls where the laydown tranformer is right against the chassis.
@@infectionsman For the air gap--to enable a little airflow and reduce heat stress on the transformer. Not like it's a feature the lack of which will immediately destroy a transformer, but most transformers you buy will come with nuts and/or spacers already on there for the purpose of leaving a gap, and anything you can do to increase the life of a component seems worth employing and/or leaving on there. The main head-scratcher is why at least one bolt is going the opposite direction of the others.
@@ElliotGKnapp I mean, if you attach it directly against the chassis it will provide heat-sinking anyway.
@@infectionsman Sure, like I was saying, it's not like it's major in the scheme of things and there's ultimately not a lot of point arguing against someone's personal preference. Using the chassis as a heat sink, of course, would distribute more heat to the chassis and potentially other components, also eliminating any potential benefit from providing (slight) ventilation to everything else inside the chassis. Personally, I'd rather have the air just take some of the heat away, if possible, especially since the transformer manufacturer (who presumably knows something about their product) typically provides nuts and/or nylon spacers for this purpose. Also, I'm lazy and it takes more effort to take the nuts off than just leave them on there :)
@@ElliotGKnapp I use nylon spacers and plastic tubing around the screw threads so they dont touch the laminations. The screws can cause magnetic shorting of the laminations = eddy currents.
While I admire the builders initiative, this is not a project for a neophyte. At least he survived the experiment....!
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What a *MESS!* The customer should find another calling!
you gotta start somewhere.... looks like a fair bit of reading and practicing is needed before trying it again though.
No, that's definitely better than average for a first build. It's not that it's easy or it's hard, but nobody gets good looking tube wiring the first time out. Or even the second. As simple as they are, those switchcraft #12 jacks are utterly baffling for 99% of newbs. They were for me.
Why? Because you think everyone should be highly proficient on their first attempt? Are you perfect on your first try at things? Is it okay with you if he learns from doing?
@@ianbutler1983 it's not that simple when what you are building can kill people or start a house fire
@@kbkman7742 - long bare leads, Aluminum Foil, missing stand-offs, poor soldering .etc errffff!