Get my 6 Piece Screwdriver Set: ibuildit.ca/blog/6-piece-screwdriver-set/ I needed to inlay some decorative bowties and came up with a way to use a standard guide bushing set to do it. I used a 1/4" straight cutting bit with two difference size guide bushings - a 5/16" outer diameter one and a 51/64" outer diameter. You'll use the 5/16" bushing to cut the inlay, carefully cutting around the perimeter using the template. Then you use the same bit and template to cut the recess that the inlay fits into, but switch the guide bushing for the 51/64" size. It's as easy as that. Most imperial guide bushing sets have a 51/64" bushing. I had to cut mine shorter to work with the 1/4" thick template, but that's the only modification I did. The beauty of this method is that it uses one template to do both operations, guaranteeing a precise match and fit. Using one template also makes it quicker to do, and reduces the chances of mistakes. There may be other bit and bushing combinations that work, and if you know one let me know in the comments.
Seems like the math should work like this: Given a bit diameter B and a smaller guide diameter G1, the larger guide diameter G2 should be: G2=G1+2*B, which in this case would be 52/64". Swapping for a 51/64" guide instead would give a little extra room for an easier fit.
I just tried this technique, and I had trouble getting my 1/4" bits to clear the I.D. on the 5/16" bushing. I feel like this must be right for the 51/64" bushing to be so prevalent, but I couldn't make it work. Any advice?
If it helps anyone, diameter of second guide bush just needs to be diameter of first guide bush plus twice the diameter of the router cutter. For example 1/8 bit with a 1/2 guide bush for initial cut and 3/4 bush to cut the pocket. Or in metric say a 6 mm bit, 12 mm guide bush then a 24mm bush works.
That doesn't quite match John's sizes. He has cut the recess 1/64th wider (0.4mm), so 1/128th (0.2mm) on each side, and that looked still to be pretty tight. Presumably if you did it exactly as you calculate, it may be too tight? Since I can't do imperial in my head easily, I had to normalise the fractions: 16/64" router bit, 20/64" guide bushing for the inlay, 51/64" guide bushing for the recess. Using your calculations, it should have been a 52/64" guide bushing for the inlay. Using a slightly smaller guide bushing for the recess makes a slightly larger recess. Not sure how to do this with my metric bushings - I don't have one that is out by such a small amount
Even after following John for a long time, it's still impressive the accuracy and results he achieves with an arsenal of homemade tools! Great video John 👍
Rockler sold me an inlay set with a bushing with a bushing so you could just add that second outside bushing for your second setup cutting into your project. Very easy if you have a jig to follow like you demonstrated. I appreciate you sir. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
I saw this video and thought this technique would be perfect for a project I'm working on. Tried it and it didn't work. There was about 1/32" gap all around. Tried it again, same result. To see if the math works out, I drew a couple circles on sketchup and aligned them properly. The math worked out to about 1/128, which is perfect. Then I realized that my bushings were protruding from the bottom of my 1/4" experimental template! Made a 1/2" template and ...SUCCESS! TEMPLATES MUST BE THICKER THAN THE BUSHING.
I've seen you use, what appears to be, construction adhesive instead of yellow glues in more than one video. Sometime could you please talk about why you've chosen that? Thanks for another instructive video.
Hi Berry, in case John doesn’t see this I’ll pass on info as he has talked about it a lot. It’s actually polyurethane construction adhesive which he always stresses is different to the normal stuff. One of the main reasons he likes it is it works better in the cold temps in his shop. Also, it has a longer open time.
Why don’t I see this used more often on a lot of other creators videos. Seems like this would be THE glue for mitered corners and other joinery that’s sensitive to wood swelling?
I do something SIMILAR to that BUT, since I have a CNC router, I use it to cut my templates and patches in various shapes. I leave the corners rounded because that's how the CNC cuts them and I just cut out my pockets with my templates and. simple .25" pattern bit. I install my wooden latches I make and sell in a similar fashion. I have a video for that (not as good as your content John...your stuff is amazingly done...maybe some day I'll catch up) on my TH-cam channel. I'd love to get your feedback on it.
This is a great trick and I'm really looking forward to using it but the 5/16" bushing has an I.D. of 1/4". How do you make a 1/4" bit work in a 1/4" hole without destroying it?
If the guide bushing is a 5/16 O.D. and you're using a 1/4 in router bit then how is your bit fitting through the INSIDE diameter of the guide bushing??? I was thinking to try your technique but no way does my 1/4 inch bit fit freely through my 5/16 guide bushing!!
I’ve also heard him say it’s stronger & has some gap filling properties…when feels the need for either. I’m sure he’s correct BUT, I’ve tried it couple times & it is a pain in the @ss to work with. To each his own…😂
Lots of reasons: - as strong as PVA glue - thicker, so it's not dripping all over the place - longer dry time gives time for complicated glue-ups - works at lower temperatures, unlike PVA glue - it has no water, so it doesn't swell the wood - long shelf life - 100% waterproof - it doesn't stink (low odour) My shop is heated, but only up to 5 degrees Celsius in the winter. Important: The stuff I use is polyurethane construction adhesive - PL Premium. Don't make the mistake of thinking any old thing in a tube is the same, they aren't.
Another benefit over wood glue is the ca takes a lot longer to dry. This is helpful if you have a complicated glue-up where it might take a long time to get everything together. Another benefit is, when you get your glue-up together and you realize you made a mistake it can come apart much easier than wood glue. I've been using polyurethane construction adhesive for years now, because I first saw John using it, and it really works well. Also, it's not a pain in the @ss to work with.
Im sorry but when you said you were changing a bit to 51/64's I couldn't help but giggle. Imperial -really. Here in the UK we have been using metric for decades and it is way easier and accurate. Our measuring tapes still have imperial on one edge and metric on the other but NOBODY uses imperial. Back in the day the UK pound used to be imperial meaning 144 pennies to a pound. Imagine using that today. Metric is much more convenient, in my opinion. Love your video by the way.
I’m Canadian and we sort of use both. Speed and distance in Kilometers, but weight in pounds and height in feet and inches. Indoor temp in Fahrenheit and outdoor temp in Celsius. I’ll say that when it comes to woodworking, going fully metric has improved my accuracy and reduced mistakes by a significant margin.
I have to say, it is an honor to see you work and putt your years of knowledge on display. ( though I don't have the gutts to try some of the things that you do. Thanks for all the knowledge that you share on a regular basis.
Get my 6 Piece Screwdriver Set: ibuildit.ca/blog/6-piece-screwdriver-set/
I needed to inlay some decorative bowties and came up with a way to use a standard guide bushing set to do it.
I used a 1/4" straight cutting bit with two difference size guide bushings - a 5/16" outer diameter one and a 51/64" outer diameter.
You'll use the 5/16" bushing to cut the inlay, carefully cutting around the perimeter using the template.
Then you use the same bit and template to cut the recess that the inlay fits into, but switch the guide bushing for the 51/64" size.
It's as easy as that.
Most imperial guide bushing sets have a 51/64" bushing. I had to cut mine shorter to work with the 1/4" thick template, but that's the only modification I did.
The beauty of this method is that it uses one template to do both operations, guaranteeing a precise match and fit. Using one template also makes it quicker to do, and reduces the chances of mistakes.
There may be other bit and bushing combinations that work, and if you know one let me know in the comments.
Seems like the math should work like this: Given a bit diameter B and a smaller guide diameter G1, the larger guide diameter G2 should be: G2=G1+2*B, which in this case would be 52/64". Swapping for a 51/64" guide instead would give a little extra room for an easier fit.
I just tried this technique, and I had trouble getting my 1/4" bits to clear the I.D. on the 5/16" bushing. I feel like this must be right for the 51/64" bushing to be so prevalent, but I couldn't make it work. Any advice?
If it helps anyone, diameter of second guide bush just needs to be diameter of first guide bush plus twice the diameter of the router cutter. For example 1/8 bit with a 1/2 guide bush for initial cut and 3/4 bush to cut the pocket.
Or in metric say a 6 mm bit, 12 mm guide bush then a 24mm bush works.
This was so helpful that I took a screenshot!
That doesn't quite match John's sizes. He has cut the recess 1/64th wider (0.4mm), so 1/128th (0.2mm) on each side, and that looked still to be pretty tight. Presumably if you did it exactly as you calculate, it may be too tight? Since I can't do imperial in my head easily, I had to normalise the fractions: 16/64" router bit, 20/64" guide bushing for the inlay, 51/64" guide bushing for the recess. Using your calculations, it should have been a 52/64" guide bushing for the inlay. Using a slightly smaller guide bushing for the recess makes a slightly larger recess.
Not sure how to do this with my metric bushings - I don't have one that is out by such a small amount
Masking tape could be your friend here…
@@camhutchison5553 it works without the additional 64th. I'm metric in the uk and do it often with metric bits and guide bushes and works fine.
@@camhutchison5553 1/64th inch is closer to 0.396875mm, 1/128th inch is closer to 0.1984375mm. You're skosh on the high side.
Even after following John for a long time, it's still impressive the accuracy and results he achieves with an arsenal of homemade tools! Great video John 👍
This is why i come here, you make thing`s that even a novice can follow and i am in awe in everything you do. Thank you.
I'm waiting for John to start making things in the kitchen again, i need a new stock pot🤣🤣. Thanks for all your time and efforts cheers👍
Rockler sold me an inlay set with a bushing with a bushing so you could just add that second outside bushing for your second setup cutting into your project. Very easy if you have a jig to follow like you demonstrated. I appreciate you sir. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
I learned this many years ago and because of those years I had forgotten this trick. Thanks for the reminder John! Keep sharing
“I’ve got a firm grip on the block and it’s not going anywhere” 01:40 oh yeah, wait til stumpy nubs hears that.
Best description of this procedure for my thick brain. Thank you.
Thanks for giving the exact details, it is very helpful.
That's very neat work. I will have to find the metric equivalents because it works so well.
Those fractions are way too much to comprehend...and I don't find Maths difficult. Metric makes so much sense
@@AW-pz3qc We here in North America find either easy as pie.
Slightly better than my trial and error (and error and error and error) method
trial and error is what gets you to the solution.
I saw this video and thought this technique would be perfect for a project I'm working on. Tried it and it didn't work. There was about 1/32" gap all around. Tried it again, same result.
To see if the math works out, I drew a couple circles on sketchup and aligned them properly. The math worked out to about 1/128, which is perfect.
Then I realized that my bushings were protruding from the bottom of my 1/4" experimental template! Made a 1/2" template and ...SUCCESS!
TEMPLATES MUST BE THICKER THAN THE BUSHING.
I've seen you use, what appears to be, construction adhesive instead of yellow glues in more than one video. Sometime could you please talk about why you've chosen that? Thanks for another instructive video.
Hi Berry, in case John doesn’t see this I’ll pass on info as he has talked about it a lot. It’s actually polyurethane construction adhesive which he always stresses is different to the normal stuff. One of the main reasons he likes it is it works better in the cold temps in his shop. Also, it has a longer open time.
@@TheLindsay720 I think he also said wood doesn’t absorb it, which can be handy for glueing tight joints such as box joints.
@@stokovsky8483 yeah it’s not water-based so won’t swell the wood for tight joinery. Good point.
Why don’t I see this used more often on a lot of other creators videos. Seems like this would be THE glue for mitered corners and other joinery that’s sensitive to wood swelling?
Great project and video John!
You make Easy everything 🎉👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
I do something SIMILAR to that BUT, since I have a CNC router, I use it to cut my templates and patches in various shapes. I leave the corners rounded because that's how the CNC cuts them and I just cut out my pockets with my templates and. simple .25" pattern bit. I install my wooden latches I make and sell in a similar fashion. I have a video for that (not as good as your content John...your stuff is amazingly done...maybe some day I'll catch up) on my TH-cam channel. I'd love to get your feedback on it.
beautiful thumbnail on the video :)
Very great video.
Great idea.
dope, thanks for the video👍
Nice... doesn't bother me resawing with table saw, do it right it's not a thing . Just starting to think about bow ties, appreciate the upload..
Thanks, John. Good info.
This is a great trick and I'm really looking forward to using it but the 5/16" bushing has an I.D. of 1/4". How do you make a 1/4" bit work in a 1/4" hole without destroying it?
Thanks dude!
Good one! I reckon Dimond shape much better fit! cheers
Nice one
I subscribed twice
Using a router on both processes put a new spin on doing a bow tie
This is so cool! Thanks for sharing the info and educating us. 👍🏼
If the guide bushing is a 5/16 O.D. and you're using a 1/4 in router bit then how is your bit fitting through the INSIDE diameter of the guide bushing??? I was thinking to try your technique but no way does my 1/4 inch bit fit freely through my 5/16 guide bushing!!
How can you see what you're doing???
Oh so 51/64 sounds like an odd size? Try 5/16, 3/8 and the like xD imperial can just never ever make sense to me.
Why do you use a construction adhesive for glue rather than standard wood glue?
He uses construction adhesive because his shop isn't heated and regular wood glue wood freeze before it dries. He's in a cold climate.
I’ve also heard him say it’s stronger & has some gap filling properties…when feels the need for either. I’m sure he’s correct BUT, I’ve tried it couple times & it is a pain in the @ss to work with. To each his own…😂
It is also the signature move of this channel :)
Lots of reasons:
- as strong as PVA glue
- thicker, so it's not dripping all over the place
- longer dry time gives time for complicated glue-ups
- works at lower temperatures, unlike PVA glue
- it has no water, so it doesn't swell the wood
- long shelf life
- 100% waterproof
- it doesn't stink (low odour)
My shop is heated, but only up to 5 degrees Celsius in the winter.
Important: The stuff I use is polyurethane construction adhesive - PL Premium. Don't make the mistake of thinking any old thing in a tube is the same, they aren't.
Another benefit over wood glue is the ca takes a lot longer to dry. This is helpful if you have a complicated glue-up where it might take a long time to get everything together. Another benefit is, when you get your glue-up together and you realize you made a mistake it can come apart much easier than wood glue.
I've been using polyurethane construction adhesive for years now, because I first saw John using it, and it really works well. Also, it's not a pain in the @ss to work with.
Freehand a router and clean up with knife and chisels
Thumbnail looks like standing sculptures on a desertscape!
I would be all over those screwdrivers if they had a Robertson option
show
comment
Sorry I had to stop watching because of the shish boom background noise.
I continued watching because of the awesome shish boom background music. 🥱
Imperial measurements is shit mate
They worked perfectly in this case, but go on… 🙄
What makes you think that ? lack of education ?
Im sorry but when you said you were changing a bit to 51/64's I couldn't help but giggle. Imperial -really. Here in the UK we have been using metric for decades and it is way easier and accurate. Our measuring tapes still have imperial on one edge and metric on the other but NOBODY uses imperial. Back in the day the UK pound used to be imperial meaning 144 pennies to a pound. Imagine using that today. Metric is much more convenient, in my opinion. Love your video by the way.
Oooh, careful, some Americans get very touchy when you criticize (-ise?) their medieval measurement system.
I’m Canadian and we sort of use both. Speed and distance in Kilometers, but weight in pounds and height in feet and inches. Indoor temp in Fahrenheit and outdoor temp in Celsius.
I’ll say that when it comes to woodworking, going fully metric has improved my accuracy and reduced mistakes by a significant margin.
Im an American. I dont use metric. Decimal inches. Not fractions. Easy math. I dont know why metric users think inches have to be fractions.
Brilliant, John! Thanks for the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good video.
I have to say, it is an honor to see you work and putt your years of knowledge on display. ( though I don't have the gutts to try some of the things that you do. Thanks for all the knowledge that you share on a regular basis.