Thanks so much! I followed your video on replacing tub seals on my Maytag, but when I put it back together it wouldn't spin. Turned out the tub cover was rubbingon the spin tub. This was the earlier model that didn't have the plastic tub cover, but the metal one with a metal band and triangular rubber seal. I watched your excellent transmission video and once I understood how a washer transmission worked I was able to figure out it wasn't a transmission problem, but I simply had to raise the tub cover a little. You saved me so much time, aggravation, and money. I owe you man! I subscribed, it seemed the least I could do.
Grampa thank you very much, I am suspecting my transmission but I am afraid of opening it because I was not sure what I was supposed to find inside, I feel confident now
I went to a repair and Maytag sales today and told the machine is too old and parts are unavailable. Well this is untrue. awesome videos. Has anyone else went thru this procedure and found a damage pinion gear?
I have a question, same exact model, has no problem agitating with a full load- can spin the pully freely. When it switches direction to spin the water out - it will start and a few seconds after spinning, the motor will trip out with a smell of burnt electrical. After it cools down, it automatically tries again and trips it out. I replaced the motor and still happens. When I spin the pully clockwise for the spin cycle - it does not spin as freely as the agitation cycle, there is more resistance and in addition the bell housing of the transmission spins as well (the bell housing does not spin on the agitation cycle). The bell housing does not spin on the agitation cycle. Is my transmission, ok? I think it is? Is the pully supposed to spin as freely in the agitation cycle as the spin cycle? I did replace the break and didn't help. I am wondering if there is a bearing that has gone bad or something? I did replace a bearing when i replaced the break, but I think there are other bearings. Or do I need another motor? What would case more resistance of spinning the pully on the spin cycle? Thats the problem. Thanks for any help!! Frustrated.
This is super. Do have a question. My old A183 has these exact symptoms. First, the tub is extremely difficult to rotate by hand. Could the bearing be seizing as well? How does the brake work? Could it be jammed or dragging? Spin cycle is perfect indicating clutch working fine. Lastly, I don't know if it's possible to find the brake removal tool. Everyone showing out of stock. Thanks
Does your Maytag have the same same style of transmission as this one or not? If it does then it’s this transmission aka the Orbital, if not then it’s the Helical transmission which was around from 1956 to about 1989. The Orbital debuted around 1986, and went into all Maytags after the Helical transmission was discontinued in the late 1980’s.
My Maytag LAT9593AAW is won't spin. I have watched almost all of your videos and I'm thinking it might be the tub bearing, the radial bearing, or the brake assembly and these have been my troubleshooting/exploratory surgery steps- Belts are new. Just replaced and tensioned due to the first time I had a stinky basement and wet clothes. Engine seemes to slide just fine. No clothes stuck around the drum. I took a Slim Jim down the edge all the way around to be very sure of this. Transmission pulley will spin counterclockwise just fine. Transmission pulley will almost make a half rotation the clockwise before it gets very hard to turn. The bearing directly behind the transmission pulley spins just fine and I put it back. The transmission case itself doesn't spin easily like it should and it certainly isn't spinning the tub. I opened the transmission case and drained the oil. None of the internal parts seem to be marred or broken. Like I said, tub bearing, radial bearing, or brake assembly. How would I know which one of these might be the problem and how I can test further to avoid buying more parts than necessary.
Great videos! Thanks! A question: when I turn the pulley counter-clockwise, the whole mechanism binds. I can force it with enough effort, but it binds at the same points when I observe the inner mechanism of the transmission. Can you suggest what might be causing the binding? There is nothing obviously wrong with the gears and whatnot inside the transmission. I can't tell if the problem is above or below the transmission itself. Any input will be greatly appreciated. I love my old Maytag washer (LAT8440AAL) and would rather not junk the unit if at all possible.
Angel thanks for a cool video as always, just enjoy how you explain things. does the direct drive do the same, rotate counter clockwise to agitate and clockwise to spin?
Thank You For Watching My Videos Click on the link below to check my website www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/ Angel theapplianceman
Hi! I opened and did what is said in this video, but the top part and the bigger gear is jammed on my machine! At minute 5 in your video, where you show how the transmission works, mine doesn't move like that. I checked the gears and they're clean. Which part is broken? :(
Is hard to say without been there to check the washer. But if the gears look OK it could be the transmission top shaft and for that you will need to remove the complete transmission and probably replace it with a new one or a good use one.
I have the transmission cover off; the agitator functions when I turn the pulley counter-clockwise, but it takes more effort to turn when when it reverses direction. It also makes a groaning sound at that point. It seems like it is binding somewhere. Any ideas? The transmission belt started smoking which led me to this video. I'm wondering if a little binding/groaning is normal and if maybe I should have just replaced and adjusted the belt...
Is hard to tell without having the transmission present to check it out. Make sure that the small plastic pinion has not some wear on it making it had to turn. when the washer is on spin all it does is to release the brake and lock the complete transmission and turn it . The gears are only use during agitation O would remove the transmission and check to see if find a good cheap one. I would look on Craig list to see if some one is getting rid of and old Maytag washer and use it for parts.
Thank you, Sir! The pinion and ring gear look brand new, the brake locks/releases fine, spin cycle is normal, agitation works, but groans and takes significantly more effort at the limits of travel. Last night I removed the agitator and the groaning seems to come from the top of the shaft/stem/seal area, so l ordered a kit that includes the shaft and stem/seal, along with a new bearing along with the wrench. I removed the clip from the upper shaft right above where it joins the yoke, it looks like it might slide out vertically once the tub is removed. Once I remove the drums I should be able to isolate the problem better. I will definitely be using this and your other videos throughout the process!
@@writerjmd I fixed it by replacing the transmission shaft, a leaking seal had caused it to rust and bind. I replaced the bearings and seals while I was in there along with some other wear parts. Don't be afraid to lay them machine on its side and open up the transmission if you need to, it's pretty simple. Take pictures if you need to so you know how to put it back together. The job itself didn't take a long time, but I had to wait on parts because I didn't order everything all at once.
What they make now are junk, the GE Whirlpool direct drive and the original Maytag washers where the easier to fix and last a long time. Now everything is electronic and you need to know electronics to try to fix it. I need to learn how to fix the newer washers and dryer to be able to make new videos. If you could get your hands on Whirlpool direct drive washer they are the easier to fix. angel theapplianceman
@@theapplianceman that's what I have now, a Whirlpool direct drive I purchased new in 1993. The only repairs I've done on it was replace the agitator dogs twice and the timer. Now the tub seal was leaking, so I've taken it all apart the check all the seals. I'm going to replace the shaft seals anyway. One thing I also noticed is tub support shaft has some good amount of rust from the middle to the top.
@@Authoratah Those where the best washers to work on. What I suggest is look a the market place or Craigslist to try to find a use direct drive washer that someone want to give away or sell cheap and get it for spare part and you probably will still have that washer for at least 5 or more years.
@@Authoratah the best washers that you can get your hands on are Maytags from the mid 80’s and older, Maytag literally kept the same basic design from 1956 to 2006 so parts are interchangeable. Heck, Maytag’s dryer designs changed more than their washers have between the years of 1956 and 2006 since their dryers changed 3 times in design while their washers have only changed 2 times in all those decades. I actually have a 1973 Maytag A606 set that’s still running I bought for $30 along with it’s matching gas dryer back in 2019.
That involve more work. I believe that the big gear is made or harder plastic that the small gear and the small gear will wear out without damaging the big gear. Is just what I believe I never had to replace the big pulley.
do you have a video on transmission troubleshooting and/or replacement on a Maytag MAVT236AWW washer please? The tub won't spin. I have replaced the bearing where the flywheel goes, the snubber ring, all the tub springs, and the belt. Everything works but the spin cycle...thank you.
80/90 GL4 gear oil is a good replacement if the machine is located inside the home. If the washer is located in the garage or exposed to cold temperatures, purchase Royal Purple 75/140 gear oil. Unlike most synthetic gear oils, this one does not interfere with yellow metals.
Even though i thought those original Maytags were so boring. But that was one reliable washing machine design i hate to admit it.
My dumb ass was going to take the whole thing apart, now I know to just lay it on it back, much easier, thank you for teach the technique.
AWESOME....this was exactly what I needed to see...Thanks so much for showing the part numbers.....ordered parts on the way
This video is perfect for my situation. Same model and everything. Thank you! And thank you for your service!
Thanks so much! I followed your video on replacing tub seals on my Maytag, but when I put it back together it wouldn't spin. Turned out the tub cover was rubbingon the spin tub. This was the earlier model that didn't have the plastic tub cover, but the metal one with a metal band and triangular rubber seal. I watched your excellent transmission video and once I understood how a washer transmission worked I was able to figure out it wasn't a transmission problem, but I simply had to raise the tub cover a little. You saved me so much time, aggravation, and money. I owe you man! I subscribed, it seemed the least I could do.
Thanks for your comment. I think I may have the same problem. 👍
That was neat to see how the transmission worked. Thanks.
Thank you for watching my video
Very helpful! Thank you. Fixed a non-working agitator. The shaft had backed out of the drive coupling.
Grampa thank you very much, I am suspecting my transmission but I am afraid of opening it because I was not sure what I was supposed to find inside, I feel confident now
I went to a repair and Maytag sales today and told the machine is too old and parts are unavailable. Well this is untrue. awesome videos. Has anyone else went thru this procedure and found a damage pinion gear?
thanks boss. im trying to make a new career again. good instructions are hard to find. this is very helpful.
Excellent explanation. Thanks for your time.
You are the best! Thank you God bless you...
Thank You
Click on the link below to check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
So well explained! Thank you!
muchas gracias por tu ayuda Dios te bendiga mucho
Thanks for another great video!
Thank You
Click on the link below to check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
I have a question, same exact model, has no problem agitating with a full load- can spin the pully freely. When it switches direction to spin the water out - it will start and a few seconds after spinning, the motor will trip out with a smell of burnt electrical. After it cools down, it automatically tries again and trips it out. I replaced the motor and still happens. When I spin the pully clockwise for the spin cycle - it does not spin as freely as the agitation cycle, there is more resistance and in addition the bell housing of the transmission spins as well (the bell housing does not spin on the agitation cycle). The bell housing does not spin on the agitation cycle. Is my transmission, ok? I think it is? Is the pully supposed to spin as freely in the agitation cycle as the spin cycle? I did replace the break and didn't help. I am wondering if there is a bearing that has gone bad or something? I did replace a bearing when i replaced the break, but I think there are other bearings. Or do I need another motor? What would case more resistance of spinning the pully on the spin cycle? Thats the problem. Thanks for any help!! Frustrated.
love your videos thank you for them
Thank You
Click on the link below to check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
This is super. Do have a question. My old A183 has these exact symptoms. First, the tub is extremely difficult to rotate by hand. Could the bearing be seizing as well? How does the brake work? Could it be jammed or dragging? Spin cycle is perfect indicating clutch working fine. Lastly, I don't know if it's possible to find the brake removal tool. Everyone showing out of stock. Thanks
Did u solve this? Mine is doing the same
Does your Maytag have the same same style of transmission as this one or not? If it does then it’s this transmission aka the Orbital, if not then it’s the Helical transmission which was around from 1956 to about 1989. The Orbital debuted around 1986, and went into all Maytags after the Helical transmission was discontinued in the late 1980’s.
My Maytag LAT9593AAW is won't spin. I have watched almost all of your videos and I'm thinking it might be the tub bearing, the radial bearing, or the brake assembly and these have been my troubleshooting/exploratory surgery steps-
Belts are new. Just replaced and tensioned due to the first time I had a stinky basement and wet clothes. Engine seemes to slide just fine. No clothes stuck around the drum. I took a Slim Jim down the edge all the way around to be very sure of this. Transmission pulley will spin counterclockwise just fine. Transmission pulley will almost make a half rotation the clockwise before it gets very hard to turn. The bearing directly behind the transmission pulley spins just fine and I put it back. The transmission case itself doesn't spin easily like it should and it certainly isn't spinning the tub. I opened the transmission case and drained the oil. None of the internal parts seem to be marred or broken.
Like I said, tub bearing, radial bearing, or brake assembly. How would I know which one of these might be the problem and how I can test further to avoid buying more parts than necessary.
The only way to find out is by removing the spin drum and checking the tub bearing and the radial bearing.
@@theapplianceman Thank you for taking the time to read this and for your help
Thank You
For more free videos check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
Great videos! Thanks! A question: when I turn the pulley counter-clockwise, the whole mechanism binds. I can force it with enough effort, but it binds at the same points when I observe the inner mechanism of the transmission. Can you suggest what might be causing the binding? There is nothing obviously wrong with the gears and whatnot inside the transmission. I can't tell if the problem is above or below the transmission itself. Any input will be greatly appreciated. I love my old Maytag washer (LAT8440AAL) and would rather not junk the unit if at all possible.
Did you figure this out? having the same problem.
Thanks! Mine is cav4000AWW with transmission fail, do you have a video for it? the transmission is 90deg of this one.
Awesome video!!!
Thank You
Click on the link below to check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
Angel thanks for a cool video as always, just enjoy how you explain things. does the direct drive do the same, rotate counter clockwise to agitate and clockwise to spin?
Can you just replace gear
In these times we most know how to fix things....thank you sir. God bless
Thanks for broadcast! Do you have a broadcast for for the pulleys on the bottom.and the belts for Magtag?
Check this link
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/maytagwasherrepairvideos.html
Where can I get that small gear you held in your hand? I'm looking for it and can't seem to find it
Great video!
What do you do if your top shaft comes out of the top of the transmission with the agitator? How do you fix that?
👍👏🙏🏻🙏🏻 God bless you 🙏🏻
Good job thanks
Where can i find this transmission or the internal parts to rebuild mine?
thank you ur so helpful sir i appreciate it alot !!!!!!!
Thank You For Watching My Videos
Click on the link below to check my website
www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Angel theapplianceman
What holds the upper agitator shaft in place? Mine keeps rising up when it agitates.
Thank you sir
Excellent
Thanks 😊
Best video
Hi! I opened and did what is said in this video, but the top part and the bigger gear is jammed on my machine! At minute 5 in your video, where you show how the transmission works, mine doesn't move like that. I checked the gears and they're clean. Which part is broken? :(
Is hard to say without been there to check the washer. But if the gears look OK it could be the transmission top shaft and for that you will need to remove the complete transmission
and probably replace it with a new one or a good use one.
great Video Good Job ?
I have the transmission cover off; the agitator functions when I turn the pulley counter-clockwise, but it takes more effort to turn when when it reverses direction. It also makes a groaning sound at that point. It seems like it is binding somewhere. Any ideas? The transmission belt started smoking which led me to this video. I'm wondering if a little binding/groaning is normal and if maybe I should have just replaced and adjusted the belt...
It is a model LAT8840AAL. I think the agitator drive shaft might be binding. Does anybody know if it can be removed and cleaned up?
Is hard to tell without having the transmission present to check it out. Make sure that the small plastic pinion has not some wear on it making it had to turn. when the washer is on spin all it does is to release the brake and lock the complete transmission and turn it . The gears are only use during agitation O would remove the transmission and check to see if find a good cheap one.
I would look on Craig list to see if some one is getting rid of and old Maytag washer and use it for parts.
Thank you, Sir! The pinion and ring gear look brand new, the brake locks/releases fine, spin cycle is normal, agitation works, but groans and takes significantly more effort at the limits of travel. Last night I removed the agitator and the groaning seems to come from the top of the shaft/stem/seal area, so l ordered a kit that includes the shaft and stem/seal, along with a new bearing along with the wrench. I removed the clip from the upper shaft right above where it joins the yoke, it looks like it might slide out vertically once the tub is removed. Once I remove the drums I should be able to isolate the problem better. I will definitely be using this and your other videos throughout the process!
@@72Elco Did you solve the problem? My washer seems to make the same noise and drag also.
@@writerjmd I fixed it by replacing the transmission shaft, a leaking seal had caused it to rust and bind. I replaced the bearings and seals while I was in there along with some other wear parts. Don't be afraid to lay them machine on its side and open up the transmission if you need to, it's pretty simple. Take pictures if you need to so you know how to put it back together. The job itself didn't take a long time, but I had to wait on parts because I didn't order everything all at once.
Besides the Speed Queen, what other washer do you recommend that is reliable and easy to repair?
What they make now are junk, the GE Whirlpool direct drive and the original Maytag washers where the easier to fix and last a long time. Now everything is electronic and you need to know electronics to try to fix it. I need to learn how to fix the newer washers and dryer to be able to make new videos. If you could get your hands on Whirlpool direct drive washer they are the easier to fix.
angel theapplianceman
@@theapplianceman that's what I have now, a Whirlpool direct drive I purchased new in 1993. The only repairs I've done on it was replace the agitator dogs twice and the timer.
Now the tub seal was leaking, so I've taken it all apart the check all the seals. I'm going to replace the shaft seals anyway.
One thing I also noticed is tub support shaft has some good amount of rust from the middle to the top.
@@Authoratah Those where the best washers to work on. What I suggest is look a the market place or Craigslist to try to find a use direct drive washer that someone want to give away or sell cheap and get it for spare part and you probably will still have that washer for at least 5 or more years.
@@Authoratah the best washers that you can get your hands on are Maytags from the mid 80’s and older, Maytag literally kept the same basic design from 1956 to 2006 so parts are interchangeable. Heck, Maytag’s dryer designs changed more than their washers have between the years of 1956 and 2006 since their dryers changed 3 times in design while their washers have only changed 2 times in all those decades. I actually have a 1973 Maytag A606 set that’s still running I bought for $30 along with it’s matching gas dryer back in 2019.
@@seana806 isn't that the dryer that has 2 belts in the rear
Is it not common for the larger gear to become damaged when the small gear needs to be replaced? Jow would one replace that gear if needed?
That involve more work. I believe that the big gear is made or harder plastic that the small gear and the small gear will wear out without damaging the big gear. Is just what I believe I never had to replace the big pulley.
do you have a video on transmission troubleshooting and/or replacement on a Maytag MAVT236AWW washer please? The tub won't spin. I have replaced the bearing where the flywheel goes, the snubber ring, all the tub springs, and the belt. Everything works but the spin cycle...thank you.
th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=Maytag+washer+transmission
What is the weight of the Maytag transmission oil?
80/90 GL4 gear oil is a good replacement if the machine is located inside the home. If the washer is located in the garage or exposed to cold temperatures, purchase Royal Purple 75/140 gear oil. Unlike most synthetic gear oils, this one does not interfere with yellow metals.