My apologies if you mention this later but I am typing this while watching. Uk plugs are designed specifically so that if the cord is tugged the live disengages first. It is also why when correctly wired the live lead is the shortest. I believe the wire is breaking on these when the cord is retracted, most of us will put a foot on the button and allow the cable to wind it's way in until the plug slams into the 'hoover'. I think they should mould a stopper a few inches before the plug to stop it retracting fully inside the device.
I believe the 5V little power supply circuit in the handle driven by that OB2222N chip is actually a non-isolated power supply. Buck converter circuits are often non-isolated. they are the same type you see on circuit boards with lots of power rails everywhere, ones that take a DC input then convert that to a lower voltage to use on that part the board. The danger here is that there is no physical separation between the input and output voltages, in this case between mains and 5 volts. In a normal switch mode power supply you have a transformer in the middle that physically isolates mains from the low voltage side and things like opto-isolators are used to ensure no physical connection between the mains and low sides where a signal does need to pass between. but in this design the 5V is directly derived from mains. If you look at the sample circuit diagram in the datasheet, if for example a component failed or the chip failed, L could pass directly to the low voltage side. Or if the L and N inputs were reversed (e.g. assembly mistake in the factory) it would still work but half of the "low voltage" side would now be connected to the mains Live wire. As there is no reference to Earth within the circuit the components on the board wouldn't care about this, they would still see a difference of 5V between the 0V and 5V output pins, but to a human touching the board who is referenced to mains earth, those pins are potentially rectified mains, so your body sees +325V and +330V between the board and Earth and could give you a really nasty shock. Obviously this is not an issue while the board is all fully contained and insulated inside a load of plastic but if you are taking it out to work on it it's something to be really careful of. These circuits are only used where there is no possibility of the end user touching any part of the low voltage side. They would never be used for phone or laptop chargers for example as the user can touch the DC connector.
Vince it maybe when the plug is wound back in the shock of it when it hits the body of the vacuum it's the shock of it that pulls the wire apart. They should put a stran ball on the wire. Good video keep them coming. 👍👍👍👍👍
Vince well. I bought the exact hoover and no power. So I cut the plug and put a new plug on. It only worked. The fault was the cable was stretched at the plug. Thanks for your videos I watch all the time. Great work.
When I used to service televisions, customers would often say my hoover is faulty too ,although the make and model of their vacuum cleaner wasn't a hoover ,and likewise a Walkman which is a trade name for Sony with their " walkman " being a bush make lol
Vince finally understands why moulded plugs are bad. We have a box of new mains plugs at my local repair cafe for a bloody good reason. Part of the design of the UK plug is that line (used to be called live) will always be the first to disconnect. Think safety. Genius. Now they're often moulded, that part will always become landfill. Not so genius. Bring back proper plugs! Edit to add that the earth will always be the last to disconnect by design.
Not just uk plugs are bad rest of eu have kind of the same problem just smaller plugs without fuses, molded pluggs changes every day but probably more goes directly to landfills for foulty pluggs.
Another great video Vince the wire pulling out of the plug on older non moulded cable retract hoovers was such a problem people used to put a simple knot in the cable, now this type of hoover is back in fashion maybe a good tip
I too noticed the problem with 13amp plugs. I was swapping over a variety of things, xmas lights, cheap heat gun and soldering iron, that came with euro twio pin plugs and skinny wires..I, detest the two pin adapters that always seem to get misplaced. I bought some plugs from amazon that already had the short strain relief pipe. Like yourself I was still unhappy so resorted to building up the diameter of the cable with a length of sheathing from an old rubberised extension cable. Covered this with heat shrink tube snd finished off with more heat shrink over the cable and the strain relief. Complete overkill I know, but they work without a problem, touch wood. Keep the fixes coming, they're very much appreciated. 👍👍👍
A tip that often works for me (because I have an Android phone). Take a good photo of the item, you want to identify and then use Google Lens to find similar pictures. These finds will mostly appear in a context with the needed information. I was told iPhone has something similar, but cannot tell for sure.👍
Well done finding where the cable broke. A trick I learned back in the day which works if the live wire is broken somewhere along it's length is to use a Fluke no contact volt stick( or cheap equivalent). Just run it along the length of the wire until it stops glowing. You can find the break without cutting in no time flat.
The first vacuum cleaner probably has a latching switch instead of a button. What i mean by that is that the motherboard expects an interrupt event so to turn on it needs to go OFF/ON/OFF and that is achieved pressing a normally open button. Instead they put, for some reason, a latching switch that requires 2 presses to create that interrupt so it goes: 1st press OFF/ON 2nd press ON/OFF so while you have pressed the first time the motherboard hangs waiting for the interrupt event to finish because it will only recognise it once it's over and then proceed to turn on the vacuum.
There are quite a few countries that use the G type of mains plug like we use here in the UK. Various countries in Africa, Saudi Arabia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Cyprus, Ireland, maybe even a couple more. Ironically it is one of the features of our plugs that make them prone to fail when used with vacuum cleaners and other portable tools - the fact that they are not easy to pull out of the socket, so over time, with plenty of tugs, the wires break at the plug. Another downside of them not pulling out of the socket easily is cords can be more of a trip hazard, with a 2 pin design like north America uses if you catch a cord with your foot it will easily pull straight out of the socket. With our plugs your more likely to trip over, or pull the device the cord is connected to off of whatever it was sitting on. But with regards to these plugs, and how they are failing, they are doing exactly what the specs for a G type plug call for - the live wire being the first to pull out if the cable is pulled too hard. They are doing what the regulations say they should do. But it does seem that this design of plug is failing much easier than it should do. The strain relief seems very poor, they are relying on the bond between the plastic of the plug and the outer sheaf of the cable only. With the old clamp down style of strain relief the inner cores were also held tight.
Vince, haven't you got a voltage tester pen ? You could check for voltage from the plug to the vacuum, to see if there's a break in the cable that way.
Vince, i just want to say that it shows the content of you character how worried you are about the safety of the plugs. You are a good guy. I just wanted to throw that out there.
Vince you’ve done it again. Something I have no interest in repairing, I’ve watched all the way through and actually find it really interesting! The my mate vince channel is the gift that never stops giving 😁 top job mate
The issue with the brown wire in the plugs is a feature not a bug. If you look at the wiring diagram for a non-moulded plug the brown wire is always the shortest so if the cable is pulled beyond its limits the brown wire will pull out first thus disconnecting the appliance from mains voltage. The type G plug (UK plug) is as you’ve said one of the safest plugs in the world because of these design principles
My nearly 50 year old Kirby direct-drive, metal tank laughs at these plastic, disposable vacs. Given enough time, it could probably crunch them up and clean up the mess. It also has so many attachments it makes a man dizzy - even a carpet shampooer which works great!
I have a KIrby with auto revers gearbox rear wheel drive, beats the hell out of the carpet, Mum used to have a Goblin cast aluminium vacuum in the 1960's that beast would bend an old copper penny and you could see the sand bouncing up in front of the machine. Modern crap carpets cant take a beating but mine are over 80 years old.
The odds of the live coming loose first are pretty much 100 percent. The UK plug is designed that way so the earth is always the last connected. But yeah there may not be enough strain relief on those plugs or else the only issue is people tugging them like mad.
Gotta admit, I've always wanted a Kirby. I replaced the bed mattresses for all the beds after I seen what came out of them. It thumped our brand new Dyson animal upright. Amazing machines
@@WOFFY-qc9te we had a Kirby it couldn't hold a patch on our 3kw hoover we have had for ten years but i have no doubt it kicks the butt of modern low powered excuses for vaccums .PS the Kirby drill extension is crap lol
Being in south america, i really love the way uk plugs have fuses incorporated. Also love how you have switches to turn off the wall outlets.. it's genius. Excellent video Vince, i really enjoyed it
I bought a shark upright on sale about 8 years ago and it's been bomb proof. But that was before shark really took off as a brand. seems it's the usual story of quality going down as the brand gets bigger
Agreed. Who in their right mind would think that putting a flat flex on a vacuum cleaner was a good idea? Especially one with a cable rewind facility. Even Dyson (who also make overpriced crap BTW) use round flex.
Yes exactly. £300 to £500 for a cleaner?!!?? I expected it to be quality, but the plastic looks cheap, the build on the main body is tacky and naff, he takes it apart and there is nothing much at all inside the body! The cleaning head / hose and wand are all cheap looking plastic, that will go brittle and break easily and when the handle is taken apart to show the tiny cheap circuit board...its all just incredibly shoddy and naff... The brand name does no live up to the device and vice versa....If you bought a cheap knock off no name cleaner for under £100 it would not be much different to this Shark model inside for mechanics and quality and electronics....
Vacuum cleaners are rewarding to repair because you can in 90% of cases :). Good job on finding the tiny faults. I recently fixed a vacuum cleaner with a dead motor. Well turned out that IN the motor of that vacuum there was a hidden triac that failed. Easy repair after that :)
I think Mrs. Vince would appreciate if Mr. Vince is testing out all the vacuum cleaners in all of the rooms🤣 Such an interesting video. I love that you can turn them on and off at the handle. Really convienient. The Plug situation is surely important. But I'm still stunned with your fuses in the plugs. They are also pretty big. Here in switzerland they are quite small. Thank you for one hour + fixing content.
To closing the hole on the power plug: Up to now I have used 2 variants: a) If you take away the outer isolation of a cable for getting to the inner cables, I have just cut this open along the side, then used a part to surround the cables and screwing that into the strain relief. Or b) just encircled the cable with about 6 rounds of electrical tape (that one that is used for isolating) and screwed that into the strain relief.
I think the "problem" you have discovered with the plugs is a fundamental safety feature of British plugs. They are designed so that the life will break/pull out first. If you think about it, it would be madness to do it any other way.
those cable boots I found by just typing "mains plug cable boot" as simular ones came up, nice fix and like our shark upright so much more powerful than the dyson was
Shark vacuums are notorious for zero parts availability. Surprised everyone in Europe doesn't just have a Miele or Sebo, awesome vacuums and 10X less expensive than in North America. I like my Miele C3 but prefer the Kirby for carpet.
Impressive repair job! These vacuum cleaners are over complicated crap prone to fail. Like the stuff Dyson makes. Why does a vacuum need a remote on the handle when the main unit has foot switches?
It is the force of the recoil spring that causes the wire to break. Part of the problem is that the manufacturer isn't required to do a UL knot on the plug to prevent strain from pulling on a single lead in the cable. It has nothing to do with flex or the user pulling on the plug when it's plugged in and in use. It happens when it is being put away after being used and the user hits the retract button, allowing the spring to recoil the wire at full speed until the plug snaps against the case. If it were me, I would switch the bin from the broken one to the lower end vacuum, and put the good bin from that one on the 500. You could always switch the beauty ring on them as well. I can't imagine they are any different between the models.
Man cleaning a rabbit cage with a $500 vacuum. If i bought a $500 vacuum i wouldnt even vacuum with it. Id just set it in the corner and look at it lol.
It does make you wonder about the filth in peoples houses and what they use to clean it up with . All these cleaners needed a good...CLEAN! I do a lot of work on electronics repairs for people as well and more than half the time the problems are caused by people not maintaining, looking after or keeping the device itself in good order...
With my old corded, I used an extension cord, 20m, allowed me to do the entire house by plugging the thing into a more centrally located powerpoint. With my LG Evolve cordless, I don't give 2 hoots anymore :P I used to see people complaining in reviews that the 'cord' wasn't long enough on certain vacuums, too that I used to say 'Did you want the vacuum cleaner to be 3 times larger than it currently is!?'.
Another way of checking to see if the wire has broken inside the cable is to either plug it in and use a non contact voltage detector for the line conductor and run it down the cable until it stops showing voltage present (only works with the line conductor unless you reverse polarity in the socket). Or another way of doing it is using a tone producer/receiver like what they use to identify data cables.
I fixed a cheap vacuum cleaner switch once to get it working..bypassed it if i recall correctly..since those days 3 decades ago..i find it easier and lazier to just wait till the tenants change and clear out the old flats..because when they move in they dump previous tenants garbage tech..i get free computers (up to about 8 so far) ..monitors/TVs/ Laptops/ vacuum cleaners (4 so far) lamps/ microwaves..list goes on and on.. i ignore kettles ordinary toasters clothes etc..got one of those toasty grill sandwich makers and a slow cook pot..almost everything i collect from the bins or beside the communal bins works fine..even got a girls school bag with hundreds of pens and pencils and case rulers rubbers etc..entire stationary shop worth..I'm your original dumpster diver before internet and TH-cam channels were popular..i was the Scavenger..should be my "Marvel Superhero" nickname..no just my Nickname..could've been be "Junkie" but that has illegal connotations..so no not that..the Scavvy haha
I hate those molded plugs. Yes safe when they work, but you can't open them to check them when anything goes wrong so I normally replace them when working on power tools for example. Some plugs do have strain reliefs built in or you can buy a strain relief that fits (it might be squished). What I do with them is burn them when I'm burning garden rubbish (only do it during windy, cold conditions). Normally all that's left is strips of copper from any cable and the metal from the rest of the plug.
Just a thought. When you were fixing the first hoover with the dodgy lead you could have used a non contact voltage tester and run it along the cable to see where the break was. Wouldn't have been that useful on this one as the break was at the plugtop but may help in the future.
Hey, great video!!! I am struggling with my own vacuum cleaner atm. I think the Colored stripes on the cable are for different use times. You need to always unravel till yellow and till red if you let it run longer than 40 minutes or so.
Actually Vince, the Commonwealth includes countries that also utilise the three-pin UK plugs. I recently watched a US TH-camr who did an analysis on UK plugs. He established that there are so many fantastic design features in the UK plug.
As far as thin "Plastic" goes I would recomend some thin UV-cure Resin, works very well to coat non bearing things with it. I normaly use my 3D printers Resin. Just remember to wear PPE with it
You can buy tips for some soldering irons which are meant to heat up and 'weld' plastic together. It's what I use when repairing cracks in plastic dashboards.
Butter knife to remove the plug from the wall socket by old people was the reason I was told for the live and neutral pin insulation on a 13 amp plug That was back in the 1980s Many old houses in the UK in the 1960-70s had electrical upgrade on damp walls hence corrosion causing plugs to be stiff to remove. My grans cottage with solid stone walls and no cavity wall was like this.
I found after they started insulating the pins, this helped with them not corroding as badly either. Which prevented them from sticking. So it kinda sorted both issues.
Hiya Vince, this is the closest I could find for the 13A plug cable strain relief/boot. But I'm afraid can only see them being supplied from the US. Some on ebay as well but US sellers. It is called: Superior Electric Boot-A2-5PK Cord Protector Strain Relief Rubber. They look long, but I think you can snip the end off and it has a good amount on the other end to crimp under the the cable grip of the plug.
To seal the plastic container, melt some metal mesh from the inside. Then add epoxy from the inside since air is pressurized it will push out slightly.
Two things: I don't think the hole in the plug is an issue. Personally, if i dry fit something like that with so much slop, I'll use heat-shrink tubing to fill the void. Secondly, pick up a Near-Contact Voltage Tester. They are super cheap. In this case, it would have shown where the break in the wire was. Of course, it wouldn't have made a difference if the neutral wire was broken instead. I enjoy your videos!
I usually try acetone to weld cracks in plastic. If the plastic melts it's the kind that can be fixed. The acetone goes inside the crack and melts the parts together.
The hole in the plug is designed to accommodate a three core cable, that can handle 3KW Vince, With a cable like that it fills the hole properly, The Shark cleaners only got a two core probably less than 1KW.
Hi Vince you can measure with side from the lead is faulty. You must disconnect both sides from the lead, and then you take an Multi meter and set it to AC mv ground hang in the air (not connect). Then you connect plus with one side of the lead and one connenctor and messur the Voltage for example 20 mv and then the other connector for example 3 mv and the you now the 3mv side an this cabel is brocken. The lead is like the secondary of an coil and your house wiereing is the primary, the voltage is in relation to the wire lenght.
The live wire is designed to break first when pulled . It's breaking because the spring retracting the cable has too much tension and it crashes to a stop. It could be reduced by unwinding a few rurns off the reel.
You can get liquid pour resins (i.e. Smooth-on from Bentley advanced materials) but these take a lot of practice (and expense) to get right. If the gap on top (of the cracked one) has mostly closed and you can get to the underside and the plastic is ABS then you can use evo stick pvc pipe weld, though there is a fine line between melted together nicely and unsightly damage.
You could test with a contact less volt stick to see where live break is, it would save disassembly, also you could swap neutral and live in a dedicated small extension socket, that would be for testing the neutral wire
Vince, I managed to watch all the way to the end...phew. It does not work for all plastics but dichloromethane will dissolve many, it is a clear liquid and with cracked plastic it flows into the cracks, Amazon sell it for model making (it is the solvent in airfix glue). Takes a lot of care to apply neatly.
Shark parts are available to by separately so if you need a new hose, bin etc you can order those parts direct from shark. It's why I like shark vacuums, the easy replacement/repearability.
"The cure for something in there" - the cure for life lol!!! Brilliant video Vince =D Those vacuum cleaners suck - really well!!! The grommet you've used on those plugs is fine! It's a sleaved cable exit grommet - not sure exactly on the specific one though.
I think it needs the strain relief in that over sized hole. Shark is heavily advertised in infomercials here in the states, but their quality reputation is not great despite the high end price point. I ended up with the German Sebo brand because of stellar reviews on you tube repairs videos. It's been a bit over a year and zero issues so far. Also, that Sebo cord is long enough to cover the whole house from one plug outlet. Finally, it has an "air belt" that inflates while you vacuum to protect wood word and furniture from bangs etc. I guess this is sounding like a commercial but it really is a well designed and durable machine (so far).
Shark have the best customer service i've ever experienced. Ours broke on Saturday after a year or so. I called them and a new one was delivered the next day on Sinday less tyhan 24 hours later. Ninja on the other hand are diabolcal
I think the 2ohm resistor limits the inrush current on a cap. It will probably will work when you just bridge it. The resistor probably has to endure the leakage current of a cap that is getting older. If a resistor burned it's always a good idea to replace it with a higher wattage resistor.
Vince, Only in a My Mate Vince fix it video am I privileged to share your home piccies of the northern lights. Maybe an artistic and scientific My Mate Vince world of wonders interlude is the way to you trail blazer!!
Electrically on accessories to the BS7671 regs, top surfaces must comply to a minimum of IP4X (no larger than 1mm square) front, sides & bottom to a minimum of IP2X (no larger than 12mm square (adult finger)). With plug tops as long as a crawling baby can't put a finger in any available holes then i'd be happy. Plugs & sockets were designed for potential access from little fingers which is why we have the the safest sockets & plugs in the world.
Probably the “self levelling “ plastic stuff you think might be available, is epoxy resin. The sort of stuff they use for casting components or making these “river tables” . Available off the internet. Comes in clear, but can be coloured with various additIves . 👍
Looking at that plug - I seem to recall there being some 13amp plugs sold that had something like a strain relief gland that fitted over the flex, and secured inside the plug shell on the shell side of the screwed down flex anchor.
Re the "two clicks" thing.... Seems like the switch in the body is a latching. Press one - makes the circuit. Press two - breaks the circuit. And it needs that "make them break" to trigger the power side. Swap it out for a monetary switch and i bet you'll be back to single clickage!! Weird design - kinda feels like they were short of parts, threw in a different switch, got the side effect of "two clicks", wrote it into the manual as a "feature"!
Vince id have considered using cotton wool and super glue sanded when hardened and then sprayed with colour. Also I’d have thought the issue with the wiring is when it retracts and stops when the plug hits the back of the Hoover, the moulded design doesn’t dampen the retraction it could pull the cable loose in the plug just a suggestion
This week, on 'MY MAtE VINCE' Vince cleans the floor. The wife unit has now ordered him to buy new vacuums every week, so he can fault find them and then clean the whole house testing them.
Can't find the exact tube things you're looking for (search for the plug manufacturer?) but the combinations of the following search terms turn up a lot of very similar looking bits and pieces - sleeved cable exit grommet / 3 pin plug strain relief cable boot / BS1363 plug rubber cable gland
Hey Vince. I don't know if you have the vacuums still but I would try fiberglass resin on the cracked one That should give strength as well as coverage. Hope that might help.
Hi Vince plugs are a concern but voltage is the main issue. When I was 7 years old living in Bedford 1972 I unscrewed the light bulb in the fridge and put my finger into the socket still remember it to this day. Live in Canada now and have been shocked by 120 V on a few occasions but nothing like the 220 v that I experienced as a kid
I had the same with a spares and repair laptop from Ebay. I wanted just a new screen for my existing laptop. Pictures were of an open laptop with the screen working great. I bought it but when it arrived the screen was from a totally different device. I was ridiculed by the seller as "expecting a perfect laptop for £60" when in fact I was misled over the one replacement part I needed...
I fixed my then 20 year old trash picked Dyson about 5 years ago. it's now 25 years old and works as if it was new. (It's first life was at a Dog groomers and the hardest part was getting rid of the wet dog smell. I am not a Dyson fanboy, It is just a fluke that I stumbled across a very serviceable model as opposed to the newer glued and welded disposable crap sold by manufacturers today.
Bear in mind that Dyson battery packs have a processor and memory. They log when a cell fails and even if you replace the 18650s it will refuse to charge them. Plenty of videos of people reprogramming them, but what an absolute evil situation to be in.
Shark vacuum cleaners sadly are terrible. Nohing is straight forward with them. Quality is lacking too. Well done for persevering with these awful machines Vince.
As an electrician in sweden, i have no experience in uk plugs, but i have experians off to small cabels in a to big holes. You take 5cm of the right sized cabel, take out the cords and put in your cabel inced of the bigger cabel sleeve and the string relief over both if you have room make a loos knot on them, Seriously your video is 4 weeks late, my Electrolux vacuum cleaner did die, and a messed up and now i have lots of spear for ower new Electrolux ;) Thank you for the entertainmemt, the massive shout and the white socks in the slippers!😂😂
At 17:59 in Vince, you talk about the gap on the thinner cable to the plug. If you search for " Cable Sleeves with Rubber Strain Relief" i think that is what you need to cover it, or maybe fill the with hot glue? Love the videos even the rolls royce series.
I will be honest, some years ago I had one of those shark vacuum cleaners and although it is stupid expensive for what it is, it was also a terrible machine. It would vacuum when you turn it on from cold, but moving to a new room you first had to wait 15+ minutes to cool down. One day I just gave it away and got myself a cheap Hoover that I kept using for at least 8 years before replacing it.
Nice fault finding and fixes, and definetely electrical safety is very important thing 👍 From that big gap, some objects or fluid could get inside the plug and cause a short, maybe the fuse would blow in that case, but does it blow fast enough before something else breaks.
I would get a sheet of carbon fibre vinyl wrap and just cut n trim to sit atop the cracked chamber, maybe leave a window so you can see the whirl working and see when it needs emptying but would tidy up immensely :) I have the top power Henry here, cable is long enough to do every room from one plug point in the hall, bags not too expensive nor the filters and I know if it does go bad I can buy any part at a fairly reasonable price and just swap in new for old and its back up and running again :)
I've never liked moulded plugs. I generally remove them and replace them with proper serviceable ones whenever possible. Same goes for any, 'Euro', plugs as they're less than safe when used with an adaptor to fit UK sockets. You've also highlighted another problem with those moulded plugs in that the strain relief on them is vulnerable to wear and tear. I could get all conspiratorial and say they're designed this way, so that their life span is shorter than it should be to increase the future saleability, but I have no direct evidence to support that. It wouldn't be at all surprising, though, if that were the case. Sleeved strain relief grommets are widely available. It's just finding the size to fit the cable in question.
Right, about the broken wires right at the plug. That mostly happens mostly with lazy folk who yank the lead out of the wall socket by the cord instead of going over and properly pulling it out by the plug. As for the gland, you could try some heat shrink tubing to fill the extra space or perhaps cut off the flange that stops it going in like it should. Now on to the power switch on the base unit, the two tap is a feature so it can't be accidentally turned on or off.
Top marks for using ferrules Vince! Glad I never brought a shark Vac, they look poorly built and you cannot get parts for them. Just watched Louis Rossman's video on Shark and the five year warranty only covers the motor and nothing else! They wont even sell you belts, disgusting practices and terrible for the environment that all this plastic just gets thrown into land fill.
Thanks Adam, I'll check out his video, it's been a few months since I've checked up on his channel so I'm sure that will keep me busy for a while. Hope you're keeping well. I've been busy scouring eBay for the next car project. I have some pretty unusual cars up for consideration. It's hard to find something that ticks the same boxes as the RR for a low amount of money. I think as far as TH-cam vids are concerned it is a hard car to beat 😂
@@Mymatevince I am doing well Vince, I think a mini would be good but be prepared for the rust and welding. It depends of what kind of repairs you want to do but now after your experience will the Rolls I think you should have a much better idea of what floats your boat. I know many that love mechanical work but wont touch body work same goes for electrical. I presume you are looking at older vehicles like pre 1990?
@@APSuk2 Yeah I am leaning to older as I think they might be more fun. I think for me a variety of faults again would be nice, just no rear suspension cup welding this time!!!!!
I imagine the double click of the power button is so that it doesn’t accidentally turn on/off, especially off. When I had a vacuum with those big buttons on top you press with your feet, I’d always end up knocking the button with the pole when I put it down for a moment to move something out of the way.
If you have a break in the brown core of a cable you just need to run a volt stick along the cable it whilst powered on and it will show where the break is.
The resistor was most likely a current sense resistor that the chip (the blown one) used to regulate its output power. In fact, it was likely the resistor caused the chip to blow. If the resistor was drifting in its value, the regulator chip (the blown one) was thinking the output power was too low, and kept increasing it until the chip blew up.
The switcher chips often seem to go short circuit internally and draw high current through the low value sense resistor, which then blows. If you ever see a switcher chip blown, always check the low value resistors around it. One or more are almost always blown and not always in a n obvious way. The other thing to check is that the main filter (usually 400V or 450V) hasn't dropped in value a lot. I see this a lot and I suspect that the lack of smoothing causes higher than normal voltage peaks which cases the chip to fail.
My apologies if you mention this later but I am typing this while watching. Uk plugs are designed specifically so that if the cord is tugged the live disengages first. It is also why when correctly wired the live lead is the shortest. I believe the wire is breaking on these when the cord is retracted, most of us will put a foot on the button and allow the cable to wind it's way in until the plug slams into the 'hoover'. I think they should mould a stopper a few inches before the plug to stop it retracting fully inside the device.
Good point. The tension on the spring is too high. It could be reduced by opening it up and unwinding a few turns of cable off the reel.
"Slams in whilst recoiling " is a very good suggestion you pointed out
I believe the 5V little power supply circuit in the handle driven by that OB2222N chip is actually a non-isolated power supply. Buck converter circuits are often non-isolated. they are the same type you see on circuit boards with lots of power rails everywhere, ones that take a DC input then convert that to a lower voltage to use on that part the board.
The danger here is that there is no physical separation between the input and output voltages, in this case between mains and 5 volts. In a normal switch mode power supply you have a transformer in the middle that physically isolates mains from the low voltage side and things like opto-isolators are used to ensure no physical connection between the mains and low sides where a signal does need to pass between. but in this design the 5V is directly derived from mains. If you look at the sample circuit diagram in the datasheet, if for example a component failed or the chip failed, L could pass directly to the low voltage side. Or if the L and N inputs were reversed (e.g. assembly mistake in the factory) it would still work but half of the "low voltage" side would now be connected to the mains Live wire. As there is no reference to Earth within the circuit the components on the board wouldn't care about this, they would still see a difference of 5V between the 0V and 5V output pins, but to a human touching the board who is referenced to mains earth, those pins are potentially rectified mains, so your body sees +325V and +330V between the board and Earth and could give you a really nasty shock.
Obviously this is not an issue while the board is all fully contained and insulated inside a load of plastic but if you are taking it out to work on it it's something to be really careful of. These circuits are only used where there is no possibility of the end user touching any part of the low voltage side. They would never be used for phone or laptop chargers for example as the user can touch the DC connector.
Vince it maybe when the plug is wound back in the shock of it when it hits the body of the vacuum it's the shock of it that pulls the wire apart. They should put a stran ball on the wire. Good video keep them coming. 👍👍👍👍👍
This is exactly what's happening.
Vince well. I bought the exact hoover and no power. So I cut the plug and put a new plug on. It only worked. The fault was the cable was stretched at the plug. Thanks for your videos I watch all the time. Great work.
When I used to service televisions, customers would often say my hoover is faulty too ,although the make and model of their vacuum cleaner wasn't a hoover ,and likewise a Walkman which is a trade name for Sony with their " walkman " being a bush make lol
Vince finally understands why moulded plugs are bad. We have a box of new mains plugs at my local repair cafe for a bloody good reason.
Part of the design of the UK plug is that line (used to be called live) will always be the first to disconnect. Think safety. Genius.
Now they're often moulded, that part will always become landfill. Not so genius.
Bring back proper plugs!
Edit to add that the earth will always be the last to disconnect by design.
Not just uk plugs are bad rest of eu have kind of the same problem just smaller plugs without fuses, molded pluggs changes every day but probably more goes directly to landfills for foulty pluggs.
Another great video Vince the wire pulling out of the plug on older non moulded cable retract hoovers was such a problem people used to put a simple knot in the cable, now this type of hoover is back in fashion maybe a good tip
I too noticed the problem with 13amp plugs. I was swapping over a variety of things, xmas lights, cheap heat gun and soldering iron, that came with euro twio pin plugs and skinny wires..I, detest the two pin adapters that always seem to get misplaced. I bought some plugs from amazon that already had the short strain relief pipe. Like yourself I was still unhappy so resorted to building up the diameter of the cable with a length of sheathing from an old rubberised extension cable. Covered this with heat shrink tube snd finished off with more heat shrink over the cable and the strain relief.
Complete overkill I know, but they work without a problem, touch wood.
Keep the fixes coming, they're very much appreciated. 👍👍👍
A tip that often works for me (because I have an Android phone). Take a good photo of the item, you want to identify and then use Google Lens to find similar pictures. These finds will mostly appear in a context with the needed information. I was told iPhone has something similar, but cannot tell for sure.👍
Google Lens app is available for the iPhone as well
Well done finding where the cable broke. A trick I learned back in the day which works if the live wire is broken somewhere along it's length is to use a Fluke no contact volt stick( or cheap equivalent). Just run it along the length of the wire until it stops glowing. You can find the break without cutting in no time flat.
But if they're is no circuit being made, then the voltage pen will not light up on any part of the plug... So how would that work?? ,🤔
The first vacuum cleaner probably has a latching switch instead of a button.
What i mean by that is that the motherboard expects an interrupt event so to turn on it needs to go OFF/ON/OFF and that is achieved pressing a normally open button.
Instead they put, for some reason, a latching switch that requires 2 presses to create that interrupt so it goes:
1st press OFF/ON
2nd press ON/OFF
so while you have pressed the first time the motherboard hangs waiting for the interrupt event to finish because it will only recognise it once it's over and then proceed to turn on the vacuum.
There are quite a few countries that use the G type of mains plug like we use here in the UK. Various countries in Africa, Saudi Arabia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Cyprus, Ireland, maybe even a couple more. Ironically it is one of the features of our plugs that make them prone to fail when used with vacuum cleaners and other portable tools - the fact that they are not easy to pull out of the socket, so over time, with plenty of tugs, the wires break at the plug. Another downside of them not pulling out of the socket easily is cords can be more of a trip hazard, with a 2 pin design like north America uses if you catch a cord with your foot it will easily pull straight out of the socket. With our plugs your more likely to trip over, or pull the device the cord is connected to off of whatever it was sitting on. But with regards to these plugs, and how they are failing, they are doing exactly what the specs for a G type plug call for - the live wire being the first to pull out if the cable is pulled too hard. They are doing what the regulations say they should do. But it does seem that this design of plug is failing much easier than it should do. The strain relief seems very poor, they are relying on the bond between the plastic of the plug and the outer sheaf of the cable only. With the old clamp down style of strain relief the inner cores were also held tight.
It's the automatic cable return when the plug hits the vacuum
Oooo, yes, didn't think of that. Cheers 👍👍👍
I have bought the strain reliefs many times and they are called cable boots.
Vince, haven't you got a voltage tester pen ?
You could check for voltage from the plug to the vacuum, to see if there's a break in the cable that way.
That was I was thinking they are only cheap and you can just run the tester along the length of the cable no need to even take the cleaner apart.
but would it check for a break in the neutral? But as others have said its nearly always the live to get broke.
Vince, i just want to say that it shows the content of you character how worried you are about the safety of the plugs. You are a good guy. I just wanted to throw that out there.
His heart is in the right place, but the idea is that the part that could kill you breaks first is a design choice, not a flaw.
He's not talking about the broken wire. He is talking about the gap in the new plug.
Vince you’ve done it again. Something I have no interest in repairing, I’ve watched all the way through and actually find it really interesting! The my mate vince channel is the gift that never stops giving 😁 top job mate
The issue with the brown wire in the plugs is a feature not a bug. If you look at the wiring diagram for a non-moulded plug the brown wire is always the shortest so if the cable is pulled beyond its limits the brown wire will pull out first thus disconnecting the appliance from mains voltage. The type G plug (UK plug) is as you’ve said one of the safest plugs in the world because of these design principles
My nearly 50 year old Kirby direct-drive, metal tank laughs at these plastic, disposable vacs. Given enough time, it could probably crunch them up and clean up the mess. It also has so many attachments it makes a man dizzy - even a carpet shampooer which works great!
Kirby hoovers where just some of the best
I have a KIrby with auto revers gearbox rear wheel drive, beats the hell out of the carpet, Mum used to have a Goblin cast aluminium vacuum in the 1960's that beast would bend an old copper penny and you could see the sand bouncing up in front of the machine. Modern crap carpets cant take a beating but mine are over 80 years old.
The odds of the live coming loose first are pretty much 100 percent. The UK plug is designed that way so the earth is always the last connected.
But yeah there may not be enough strain relief on those plugs or else the only issue is people tugging them like mad.
Gotta admit, I've always wanted a Kirby.
I replaced the bed mattresses for all the beds after I seen what came out of them.
It thumped our brand new Dyson animal upright.
Amazing machines
@@WOFFY-qc9te we had a Kirby it couldn't hold a patch on our 3kw hoover we have had for ten years but i have no doubt it kicks the butt of modern low powered excuses for vaccums .PS the Kirby drill extension is crap lol
Being in south america, i really love the way uk plugs have fuses incorporated. Also love how you have switches to turn off the wall outlets.. it's genius. Excellent video Vince, i really enjoyed it
I really don't see anything in these cleaners that justifies the price tag. They're absolutely unremarkable.
I bought a shark upright on sale about 8 years ago and it's been bomb proof. But that was before shark really took off as a brand. seems it's the usual story of quality going down as the brand gets bigger
@@Unjustself They were nice machines back in the teens but it's gotten so bad that even their Air Fryer lines are unreliable as hell.
Just another "Trendy" name for the new home buyers to insist on having. They'll learn in time.
Agreed. Who in their right mind would think that putting a flat flex on a vacuum cleaner was a good idea? Especially one with a cable rewind facility. Even Dyson (who also make overpriced crap BTW) use round flex.
Yes exactly. £300 to £500 for a cleaner?!!?? I expected it to be quality, but the plastic looks cheap, the build on the main body is tacky and naff, he takes it apart and there is nothing much at all inside the body! The cleaning head / hose and wand are all cheap looking plastic, that will go brittle and break easily and when the handle is taken apart to show the tiny cheap circuit board...its all just incredibly shoddy and naff... The brand name does no live up to the device and vice versa....If you bought a cheap knock off no name cleaner for under £100 it would not be much different to this Shark model inside for mechanics and quality and electronics....
just a piece of information, if you measure a resistor in circuit and it reads more than its stated value, its usually blown
When you were demonstrating the working vacuums at the end of the video, all I could hear in my head was 'I want to break free'
😆Yes! In full drag with a glossy red lipstick!🤣
😂
On the odd time I use one I always sing that :)
Vacuum cleaners are rewarding to repair because you can in 90% of cases :). Good job on finding the tiny faults.
I recently fixed a vacuum cleaner with a dead motor. Well turned out that IN the motor of that vacuum there was a hidden triac that failed. Easy repair after that :)
I think Mrs. Vince would appreciate if Mr. Vince is testing out all the vacuum cleaners in all of the rooms🤣 Such an interesting video. I love that you can turn them on and off at the handle. Really convienient. The Plug situation is surely important. But I'm still stunned with your fuses in the plugs. They are also pretty big. Here in switzerland they are quite small. Thank you for one hour + fixing content.
To closing the hole on the power plug: Up to now I have used 2 variants: a) If you take away the outer isolation of a cable for getting to the inner cables, I have just cut this open along the side, then used a part to surround the cables and screwing that into the strain relief. Or b) just encircled the cable with about 6 rounds of electrical tape (that one that is used for isolating) and screwed that into the strain relief.
When a video sucks to this extent, it's a good thing! Well done Vince, fixing both wands too.
I think the "problem" you have discovered with the plugs is a fundamental safety feature of British plugs. They are designed so that the life will break/pull out first. If you think about it, it would be madness to do it any other way.
I suggest you to get a NCV (non contact voltage tester). These aren't very expensive, but you can easily check where the break in the cable is.
those cable boots I found by just typing "mains plug cable boot" as simular ones came up, nice fix and like our shark upright so much more powerful than the dyson was
Shark vacuums are notorious for zero parts availability. Surprised everyone in Europe doesn't just have a Miele or Sebo, awesome vacuums and 10X less expensive than in North America. I like my Miele C3 but prefer the Kirby for carpet.
Impressive repair job! These vacuum cleaners are over complicated crap prone to fail. Like the stuff Dyson makes. Why does a vacuum need a remote on the handle when the main unit has foot switches?
It is the force of the recoil spring that causes the wire to break. Part of the problem is that the manufacturer isn't required to do a UL knot on the plug to prevent strain from pulling on a single lead in the cable. It has nothing to do with flex or the user pulling on the plug when it's plugged in and in use. It happens when it is being put away after being used and the user hits the retract button, allowing the spring to recoil the wire at full speed until the plug snaps against the case.
If it were me, I would switch the bin from the broken one to the lower end vacuum, and put the good bin from that one on the 500. You could always switch the beauty ring on them as well. I can't imagine they are any different between the models.
Man cleaning a rabbit cage with a $500 vacuum. If i bought a $500 vacuum i wouldnt even vacuum with it. Id just set it in the corner and look at it lol.
After seeing the video looks like buying a broken one off ebay and replacing the plug and you have a cheep experience vacume 😂
I have some expensive Roombas in good condition that I put in the corner and never use. If I use them, they won't be as good.
It does make you wonder about the filth in peoples houses and what they use to clean it up with . All these cleaners needed a good...CLEAN! I do a lot of work on electronics repairs for people as well and more than half the time the problems are caused by people not maintaining, looking after or keeping the device itself in good order...
With my old corded, I used an extension cord, 20m, allowed me to do the entire house by plugging the thing into a more centrally located powerpoint.
With my LG Evolve cordless, I don't give 2 hoots anymore :P
I used to see people complaining in reviews that the 'cord' wasn't long enough on certain vacuums, too that I used to say 'Did you want the vacuum cleaner to be 3 times larger than it currently is!?'.
Super video Vince! Blooming hidden screws......
The cord rewind could also contribute to the live cable failure.
Another way of checking to see if the wire has broken inside the cable is to either plug it in and use a non contact voltage detector for the line conductor and run it down the cable until it stops showing voltage present (only works with the line conductor unless you reverse polarity in the socket). Or another way of doing it is using a tone producer/receiver like what they use to identify data cables.
I fixed a cheap vacuum cleaner switch once to get it working..bypassed it if i recall correctly..since those days 3 decades ago..i find it easier and lazier to just wait till the tenants change and clear out the old flats..because when they move in they dump previous tenants garbage tech..i get free computers (up to about 8 so far) ..monitors/TVs/ Laptops/ vacuum cleaners (4 so far) lamps/ microwaves..list goes on and on.. i ignore kettles ordinary toasters clothes etc..got one of those toasty grill sandwich makers and a slow cook pot..almost everything i collect from the bins or beside the communal bins works fine..even got a girls school bag with hundreds of pens and pencils and case rulers rubbers etc..entire stationary shop worth..I'm your original dumpster diver before internet and TH-cam channels were popular..i was the Scavenger..should be my "Marvel Superhero" nickname..no just my Nickname..could've been be "Junkie" but that has illegal connotations..so no not that..the Scavvy haha
I hate those molded plugs. Yes safe when they work, but you can't open them to check them when anything goes wrong so I normally replace them when working on power tools for example.
Some plugs do have strain reliefs built in or you can buy a strain relief that fits (it might be squished).
What I do with them is burn them when I'm burning garden rubbish (only do it during windy, cold conditions). Normally all that's left is strips of copper from any cable and the metal from the rest of the plug.
Just a thought. When you were fixing the first hoover with the dodgy lead you could have used a non contact voltage tester and run it along the cable to see where the break was. Wouldn't have been that useful on this one as the break was at the plugtop but may help in the future.
Amazon
Brand: Uxcell
2.9 2.9 out of 5 stars 4
sourcingmap Rubber Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector Cable Sleeve 27x7x4mm 15pcs
Hey, great video!!! I am struggling with my own vacuum cleaner atm. I think the Colored stripes on the cable are for different use times. You need to always unravel till yellow and till red if you let it run longer than 40 minutes or so.
Actually Vince, the Commonwealth includes countries that also utilise the three-pin UK plugs.
I recently watched a US TH-camr who did an analysis on UK plugs. He established that there are so many fantastic design features in the UK plug.
As far as thin "Plastic" goes I would recomend some thin UV-cure Resin, works very well to coat non bearing things with it. I normaly use my 3D printers Resin. Just remember to wear PPE with it
You can buy tips for some soldering irons which are meant to heat up and 'weld' plastic together. It's what I use when repairing cracks in plastic dashboards.
You are the reason I have a soldering iron set.
Vince you should make a video on how networking works love the vids.
Butter knife to remove the plug from the wall socket by old people was the reason I was told for the live and neutral pin insulation on a 13 amp plug
That was back in the 1980s
Many old houses in the UK in the 1960-70s had electrical upgrade on damp walls hence corrosion causing plugs to be stiff to remove. My grans cottage with solid stone walls and no cavity wall was like this.
I found after they started insulating the pins, this helped with them not corroding as badly either. Which prevented them from sticking. So it kinda sorted both issues.
A great demonstration of Why you should never pull an appliance by the plug.
Hiya Vince, this is the closest I could find for the 13A plug cable strain relief/boot. But I'm afraid can only see them being supplied from the US. Some on ebay as well but US sellers. It is called: Superior Electric Boot-A2-5PK Cord Protector Strain Relief Rubber. They look long, but I think you can snip the end off and it has a good amount on the other end to crimp under the the cable grip of the plug.
To seal the plastic container, melt some metal mesh from the inside. Then add epoxy from the inside since air is pressurized it will push out slightly.
Two things:
I don't think the hole in the plug is an issue. Personally, if i dry fit something like that with so much slop, I'll use heat-shrink tubing to fill the void.
Secondly, pick up a Near-Contact Voltage Tester. They are super cheap. In this case, it would have shown where the break in the wire was. Of course, it wouldn't have made a difference if the neutral wire was broken instead.
I enjoy your videos!
I usually try acetone to weld cracks in plastic. If the plastic melts it's the kind that can be fixed. The acetone goes inside the crack and melts the parts together.
The hole in the plug is designed to accommodate a three core cable, that can handle 3KW Vince, With a cable like that it fills the hole properly, The Shark cleaners only got a two core probably less than 1KW.
Hi Vince you can measure with side from the lead is faulty. You must disconnect both sides from the lead, and then you take an Multi meter and set it to AC mv ground hang in the air (not connect). Then you connect plus with one side of the lead and one connenctor and messur the Voltage for example 20 mv and then the other connector for example 3 mv and the you now the 3mv side an this cabel is brocken. The lead is like the secondary of an coil and your house wiereing is the primary, the voltage is in relation to the wire lenght.
The live wire is designed to break first when pulled . It's breaking because the spring retracting the cable has too much tension and it crashes to a stop. It could be reduced by unwinding a few rurns off the reel.
If my venerable Dyson DC02 eventually croaks I don.t think I will be replacing it with a Shark! Thanks for the unofficial consumer advice!
You can get liquid pour resins (i.e. Smooth-on from Bentley advanced materials) but these take a lot of practice (and expense) to get right. If the gap on top (of the cracked one) has mostly closed and you can get to the underside and the plastic is ABS then you can use evo stick pvc pipe weld, though there is a fine line between melted together nicely and unsightly damage.
You could test with a contact less volt stick to see where live break is, it would save disassembly, also you could swap neutral and live in a dedicated small extension socket, that would be for testing the neutral wire
Another good video vince, can't belive you don't have a proper torx screwdriver set, there are loads on Ebay proper sets long shafts ha ha
Vince, I managed to watch all the way to the end...phew. It does not work for all plastics but dichloromethane will dissolve many, it is a clear liquid and with cracked plastic it flows into the cracks, Amazon sell it for model making (it is the solvent in airfix glue). Takes a lot of care to apply neatly.
Shark parts are available to by separately so if you need a new hose, bin etc you can order those parts direct from shark. It's why I like shark vacuums, the easy replacement/repearability.
"The cure for something in there" - the cure for life lol!!! Brilliant video Vince =D Those vacuum cleaners suck - really well!!! The grommet you've used on those plugs is fine! It's a sleaved cable exit grommet - not sure exactly on the specific one though.
I think it needs the strain relief in that over sized hole. Shark is heavily advertised in infomercials here in the states, but their quality reputation is not great despite the high end price point. I ended up with the German Sebo brand because of stellar reviews on you tube repairs videos. It's been a bit over a year and zero issues so far. Also, that Sebo cord is long enough to cover the whole house from one plug outlet. Finally, it has an "air belt" that inflates while you vacuum to protect wood word and furniture from bangs etc. I guess this is sounding like a commercial but it really is a well designed and durable machine (so far).
Shark have the best customer service i've ever experienced. Ours broke on Saturday after a year or so. I called them and a new one was delivered the next day on Sinday less tyhan 24 hours later. Ninja on the other hand are diabolcal
Nice one Vince...😊
I think the 2ohm resistor limits the inrush current on a cap. It will probably will work when you just bridge it. The resistor probably has to endure the leakage current of a cap that is getting older. If a resistor burned it's always a good idea to replace it with a higher wattage resistor.
Vince, Only in a My Mate Vince fix it video am I privileged to share your home piccies of the northern lights. Maybe an artistic and scientific My Mate Vince world of wonders interlude is the way to you trail blazer!!
We have a Shark hoover a stand up one its amazing feels so much better than the dyson we had before
Electrically on accessories to the BS7671 regs, top surfaces must comply to a minimum of IP4X (no larger than 1mm square) front, sides & bottom to a minimum of IP2X (no larger than 12mm square (adult finger)). With plug tops as long as a crawling baby can't put a finger in any available holes then i'd be happy. Plugs & sockets were designed for potential access from little fingers which is why we have the the safest sockets & plugs in the world.
Just stick with Henry for a Hoover. They never let you down.
Probably the “self levelling “ plastic stuff you think might be available, is epoxy resin. The sort of stuff they use for casting components or making these “river tables” . Available off the internet. Comes in clear, but can be coloured with various additIves . 👍
Looking at that plug - I seem to recall there being some 13amp plugs sold that had something like a strain relief gland that fitted over the flex, and secured inside the plug shell on the shell side of the screwed down flex anchor.
Re the "two clicks" thing.... Seems like the switch in the body is a latching. Press one - makes the circuit. Press two - breaks the circuit. And it needs that "make them break" to trigger the power side.
Swap it out for a monetary switch and i bet you'll be back to single clickage!!
Weird design - kinda feels like they were short of parts, threw in a different switch, got the side effect of "two clicks", wrote it into the manual as a "feature"!
The two clicks is a safety thing. It confirms if you want the vacuum on
Vince id have considered using cotton wool and super glue sanded when hardened and then sprayed with colour. Also I’d have thought the issue with the wiring is when it retracts and stops when the plug hits the back of the Hoover, the moulded design doesn’t dampen the retraction it could pull the cable loose in the plug just a suggestion
To repair the cracks sand underside of crack then apply a thin layer of Colton will and super glue.
What is Colton will? All I get is a dude on Google.
This week, on 'MY MAtE VINCE'
Vince cleans the floor. The wife unit has now ordered him to buy new vacuums every week, so he can fault find them and then clean the whole house testing them.
Can't find the exact tube things you're looking for (search for the plug manufacturer?) but the combinations of the following search terms turn up a lot of very similar looking bits and pieces - sleeved cable exit grommet / 3 pin plug strain relief cable boot / BS1363 plug rubber cable gland
Hey Vince. I don't know if you have the vacuums still but I would try fiberglass resin on the cracked one That should give strength as well as coverage. Hope that might help.
Always wondered why more tools didn't have recoil function rather than having to wind cable by hand. But problems like this may explain why
Safety is always something to strive to. The plug thing is an issue!
Hi Vince plugs are a concern but voltage is the main issue. When I was 7 years old living in Bedford 1972 I unscrewed the light bulb in the fridge and put my finger into the socket still remember it to this day. Live in Canada now and have been shocked by 120 V on a few occasions but nothing like the 220 v that I experienced as a kid
I had the same with a spares and repair laptop from Ebay. I wanted just a new screen for my existing laptop. Pictures were of an open laptop with the screen working great. I bought it but when it arrived the screen was from a totally different device. I was ridiculed by the seller as "expecting a perfect laptop for £60" when in fact I was misled over the one replacement part I needed...
You can thin epoxy with isopropyl alcohol. It also makes the epoxy a little more flexible when it cures.
i have been a fan of shark vacuums for years i love mine i currently have the shark navigator upright la322 i love it!
The strain relief for the replacement plugs - could be printed with a 3D printer and flexible materials like TPU.
I fixed my then 20 year old trash picked Dyson about 5 years ago. it's now 25 years old and works as if it was new. (It's first life was at a Dog groomers and the hardest part was getting rid of the wet dog smell. I am not a Dyson fanboy, It is just a fluke that I stumbled across a very serviceable model as opposed to the newer glued and welded disposable crap sold by manufacturers today.
Bear in mind that Dyson battery packs have a processor and memory. They log when a cell fails and even if you replace the 18650s it will refuse to charge them. Plenty of videos of people reprogramming them, but what an absolute evil situation to be in.
Shark vacuum cleaners sadly are terrible. Nohing is straight forward with them. Quality is lacking too.
Well done for persevering with these awful machines Vince.
As an electrician in sweden, i have no experience in uk plugs, but i have experians off to small cabels in a to big holes. You take 5cm of the right sized cabel, take out the cords and put in your cabel inced of the bigger cabel sleeve and the string relief over both if you have room make a loos knot on them,
Seriously your video is 4 weeks late, my Electrolux vacuum cleaner did die, and a messed up and now i have lots of spear for ower new Electrolux ;)
Thank you for the entertainmemt, the massive shout and the white socks in the slippers!😂😂
At 17:59 in Vince, you talk about the gap on the thinner cable to the plug. If you search for " Cable Sleeves with Rubber Strain Relief" i think that is what you need to cover it, or maybe fill the with hot glue?
Love the videos even the rolls royce series.
I will be honest, some years ago I had one of those shark vacuum cleaners and although it is stupid expensive for what it is, it was also a terrible machine. It would vacuum when you turn it on from cold, but moving to a new room you first had to wait 15+ minutes to cool down. One day I just gave it away and got myself a cheap Hoover that I kept using for at least 8 years before replacing it.
Nice fault finding and fixes, and definetely electrical safety is very important thing 👍 From that big gap, some objects or fluid could get inside the plug and cause a short, maybe the fuse would blow in that case, but does it blow fast enough before something else breaks.
I would get a sheet of carbon fibre vinyl wrap and just cut n trim to sit atop the cracked chamber, maybe leave a window so you can see the whirl working and see when it needs emptying but would tidy up immensely :) I have the top power Henry here, cable is long enough to do every room from one plug point in the hall, bags not too expensive nor the filters and I know if it does go bad I can buy any part at a fairly reasonable price and just swap in new for old and its back up and running again :)
I've never liked moulded plugs. I generally remove them and replace them with proper serviceable ones whenever possible. Same goes for any, 'Euro', plugs as they're less than safe when used with an adaptor to fit UK sockets. You've also highlighted another problem with those moulded plugs in that the strain relief on them is vulnerable to wear and tear. I could get all conspiratorial and say they're designed this way, so that their life span is shorter than it should be to increase the future saleability, but I have no direct evidence to support that. It wouldn't be at all surprising, though, if that were the case.
Sleeved strain relief grommets are widely available. It's just finding the size to fit the cable in question.
Right, about the broken wires right at the plug. That mostly happens mostly with lazy folk who yank the lead out of the wall socket by the cord instead of going over and properly pulling it out by the plug. As for the gland, you could try some heat shrink tubing to fill the extra space or perhaps cut off the flange that stops it going in like it should. Now on to the power switch on the base unit, the two tap is a feature so it can't be accidentally turned on or off.
Top marks for using ferrules Vince!
Glad I never brought a shark Vac, they look poorly built and you cannot get parts for them.
Just watched Louis Rossman's video on Shark and the five year warranty only covers the motor and nothing else! They wont even sell you belts, disgusting practices and terrible for the environment that all this plastic just gets thrown into land fill.
Thanks Adam, I'll check out his video, it's been a few months since I've checked up on his channel so I'm sure that will keep me busy for a while. Hope you're keeping well. I've been busy scouring eBay for the next car project. I have some pretty unusual cars up for consideration. It's hard to find something that ticks the same boxes as the RR for a low amount of money. I think as far as TH-cam vids are concerned it is a hard car to beat 😂
@@Mymatevince I am doing well Vince, I think a mini would be good but be prepared for the rust and welding. It depends of what kind of repairs you want to do but now after your experience will the Rolls I think you should have a much better idea of what floats your boat. I know many that love mechanical work but wont touch body work same goes for electrical. I presume you are looking at older vehicles like pre 1990?
@@APSuk2 Yeah I am leaning to older as I think they might be more fun. I think for me a variety of faults again would be nice, just no rear suspension cup welding this time!!!!!
I imagine the double click of the power button is so that it doesn’t accidentally turn on/off, especially off.
When I had a vacuum with those big buttons on top you press with your feet, I’d always end up knocking the button with the pole when I put it down for a moment to move something out of the way.
If you have a break in the brown core of a cable you just need to run a volt stick along the cable it whilst powered on and it will show where the break is.
The resistor was most likely a current sense resistor that the chip (the blown one) used to regulate its output power. In fact, it was likely the resistor caused the chip to blow. If the resistor was drifting in its value, the regulator chip (the blown one) was thinking the output power was too low, and kept increasing it until the chip blew up.
The switcher chips often seem to go short circuit internally and draw high current through the low value sense resistor, which then blows. If you ever see a switcher chip blown, always check the low value resistors around it. One or more are almost always blown and not always in a n obvious way. The other thing to check is that the main filter (usually 400V or 450V) hasn't dropped in value a lot. I see this a lot and I suspect that the lack of smoothing causes higher than normal voltage peaks which cases the chip to fail.