My Danchee Ridgerock has been pretty amazing to me. Just some simple upgrades: 2.2 Traxxas canyons, 20kg Amazon servos, added some low profile adhesive wheel weights on top of the front servo, Everest links, removed the lower spring perches so springs sit on top of the axle, cheap LED "rock lights", and then added a deans connector to the ESC so i can run lipos and it's great. I like to take it out and outperform my buddies crawlers that are literally 2x-5x the cost of my Ridgerock, it always pisses them off pretty good. 😅
Love all your videos, they have been super helpful in building my scx24 gladiator, and even working to build my own indoor crawler course. I have been running the Ridgerock for a little over four years with many changes and was just about to order the portal kit that I saw in your last video. Now I may rethink that has up to this point I haven't had any axle issues (knock on wood). Great videos, keep up the great work.
I put metal links on, took the foam out of the tires, then added weight to the rims. That made a big difference and was cheap. I have not had any problems or breaks yet.
Nice brother.Of all my crawlers I think about trading or selling for new stuff my Danchee is never one of those.Mine is mostly stock.Just wheels and good tires.
Still running the stoxk light wheels and some proline ibex 2.2 predator comp 80mm injora shocks madevmy own steering links with threaded rod keeps it light follows my capra lines with easy with the plastic gears keeping it light is key 😊
Driver side link looks upside down I just tightened at the rod ends to keep them in place and not glue. I'm looking at new motor and electronics for better modulation. Thanks for the build and doing this vid
I Drive Hyrax clone tires....Chassis with Metall links...I Cut my Chassis too...brings 20mm of Clearence...i would built in your Portalaxles....after this Video...better not...Thank you...i' m a Great Fan of your Channel....Greetings from Germany...
Hello sir I have been following your build in this and got my new metal steering arms but not sure how to connect them since the long one doesn't have the ball attachment in line like the original plastic one did. How did you get around that?
@@CapeCrawlers Hmm I wonder if they changed the design slightly since of the danchee because mine the short arm connects to the long arm in the center not the end and is a smaller ball diameter than the new metal one.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Timestamps
Installing the new mods: 0:26
Build overview: 2:00
On the rocks: 3:35
Final thoughts: 8:48
My Danchee Ridgerock has been pretty amazing to me. Just some simple upgrades: 2.2 Traxxas canyons, 20kg Amazon servos, added some low profile adhesive wheel weights on top of the front servo, Everest links, removed the lower spring perches so springs sit on top of the axle, cheap LED "rock lights", and then added a deans connector to the ESC so i can run lipos and it's great. I like to take it out and outperform my buddies crawlers that are literally 2x-5x the cost of my Ridgerock, it always pisses them off pretty good. 😅
Love all your videos, they have been super helpful in building my scx24 gladiator, and even working to build my own indoor crawler course. I have been running the Ridgerock for a little over four years with many changes and was just about to order the portal kit that I saw in your last video. Now I may rethink that has up to this point I haven't had any axle issues (knock on wood). Great videos, keep up the great work.
I love how you put time stamps
I like it more than i thought I would really cool video stinks about the front end 🤘✌️
I put metal links on, took the foam out of the tires, then added weight to the rims. That made a big difference and was cheap. I have not had any problems or breaks yet.
I did a more direct steering on mine.
Put some duratrak deepwoods tires on. 1.9 or 2.2 you’ll love them and won’t break as much if you use plastic rims.
Buenos días me gustaría saber la numeración de las piezas del diferencial en metal (engranaje) para arreglar el Danchee de mi hijo
Nice brother.Of all my crawlers I think about trading or selling for new stuff my Danchee is never
one of those.Mine is mostly stock.Just wheels and good tires.
That looks amazing
Still running the stoxk light wheels and some proline ibex 2.2 predator comp 80mm injora shocks madevmy own steering links with threaded rod keeps it light follows my capra lines with easy with the plastic gears keeping it light is key 😊
I had such a hard time getting the hyrax on the stock wheels, such a nightmare! But I’ll try them again
Driver side link looks upside down I just tightened at the rod ends to keep them in place and not glue.
I'm looking at new motor and electronics for better modulation.
Thanks for the build and doing this vid
I Drive Hyrax clone tires....Chassis with Metall links...I Cut my Chassis too...brings 20mm of Clearence...i would built in your Portalaxles....after this Video...better not...Thank you...i' m a Great Fan of your Channel....Greetings from Germany...
It still seems that the front and the rear motor's, still are not perfectly well sinc. The rest is a awesome upgrade.
👍
This makes me want to dust mine off!
Im not sure what Rc crawler to get.
Hello sir I have been following your build in this and got my new metal steering arms but not sure how to connect them since the long one doesn't have the ball attachment in line like the original plastic one did. How did you get around that?
I used pivot hardware from the stock lower links. Since I swapped them out at the same time for the metal ones, I was able to use the hardware
@@CapeCrawlers Hmm I wonder if they changed the design slightly since of the danchee because mine the short arm connects to the long arm in the center not the end and is a smaller ball diameter than the new metal one.
I love mine but it's a 'light-weight", gotta keep it light. Does the stock esc run 3S out the box??
I have heard of folks running 3s but I haven’t tried it
Why you do not cut the chassis?
I’ve never heard of anyone cutting it. I’ll have to explore this!
I cut off the lower part of the chassis with a Dremel and mounted the links from Redcat higher. I repositioned the electronics at the top
Im assuming this dies instantly if driving wet ares
It's not waterproof rated but there are lots of guys that have taken it in water and done crossings with no issues.
I got one for my dad and it’s the same thing with the dog bone braking every time in stock form
Throw some Traxxas Jato rod ends on the front link, they are longer.
Thank you!