Thanks for your comment 🙏 Ha ha! Thanks brother! I think we added something 70 or so subscribers since the last comment. We will get there one day. In the mean time, I am thankful for each and everyone and I am stoked whenever people watch and comment. This is all very encouraging and I plan to continue to make the videos better and make more of them. Hope that helps.
I came across y'all today while searching to see if one could convert the lower priced PNY 4080's with the schitzo fans to liquid cooled. Was not expecting you would speed level my liquid cooling knowledge and wipe away all doubts about making my new build fully liquid cooled. This channel deserves to blow up.
Thanks for your comment 🙏Thank you friend. You totally get it and I am happy you're able to receive the knowledge. Some people just need to see it once. I try to make it so the viewer is the one doing the build. Starting the content right away. Showing the product up close and doing it literally step by step. It's not rocket science. But there are a good amount of steps. Thanks again
Thanks for your comment 🙏Thank you for noticing. Cleaning out the red coolant wasn't something I wanted to do, but deep down, I knew it had to be done and I am happy that I got some footage (a lot was cut because some of the really good closeups revealed that I could have cleaned it better hehe). The dye from the double protect ultra was pretty strong so it was unlikely that the mayhems would clean it completely without some scrubbing. I am only using colored coolant because it shows off the flow paths much better and just has overall more visual interest than clear. I would recommend clear for anyone doing a loop for their own setup. I have mayhems coolant for the next set of blocks, so I will see how that goes. Never tried it but its likely the only other coolant I will use besides the DP ultra for now. I appreciate your continued feedback and hope to make incremental improvements with each video. Next one is the Alphacool Core water block for the 4080 TUF (strix model, but fits TUF). I just got the block in and will be shooting today and hopefully get an episode out sooner than later. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏It's encouraging to hear that the video and the list is helpful. The video is to help take the mystique and mystery out of watercooling while putting the product and process front and center. I try to make it like a first person perspective and make so its like the viewer is doing the build. Hope that helps
You make it look so easy! I appreciate that you go over every step and explain what you're doing. I've never watercooled anything but I was able to follow along and understand what you were doing. Thank you :)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 That is really awesome to hear. Partly because how you describe it is spot on. For example, I'm leaning into this being sort of a first person view and really trying to take the mystique and mystery out of the whole process. I make sure to let people know what component is being used but not trying to add any subjective commentary. I cover the hands so the focus can be on the product and that one can imagine themselves doing it. Thank you again for watching and for commenting. 🙌
Thanks for your comment 🙏You know it. I tried to keep it balanced at least. Also, I wanted a dark theme to counter balance the other inverted EVO build with the white theme. In the end, the EPDM heatkiller soft tubing was a highlight to work with. Thanks again for watching.
First youtuber i've seen use AquaComputer parts :) Awesome work buddy! (One small nit, that isn't a jet plate as it does not direct the coolant into the micro fins, its just a crossover plate used to have the coolant jump that passage)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Oh, that's a good nit. I genuinely have a hard time finding information about some of the inner parts of these water blocks. Now I know, it's a crossover plate. That makes sense. Thanks. I totally like using aquaconputer because it helps me control the loop, where I don't need to rely on the motherboard as much. If you're a fan, I hope you stay tuned because the next video will have 3 aquaconputer parts (d5 next, next flow, quadro) in a Mora/Noctua/420 build. Thanks again
Another awesome vídeo! Great presentation and what a nice taste building these things :D Looking forward for the next video. Obs: After 6 months I finally completed my custom loop today and...the radiador leaked, It was a manufacturing defect. Lets see how the seller will go along with It.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you for watching! Next video will be the Alphacool Core water block on the RTX 4080 TUF. I am done with footage and working on editing next. Hopefully it'll be out sooner than later. Oof, a radiator leaking due to a defect isn't something that is easily accounted for. Normally, you can prevent leakage by being careful, but not with a defect. I have been through my fair share of leaks (all due to my own error and I think one to a bad fitting) and its always the same. Stay calm and clean it up. Nothing has ever broken from a leak, just mess to clean up. Hope it works out for you.
@@vectornetwork Exactly! And what saved me was an old cloth that I used to clean the PC and a good drainage system. About the radiator, I've talked to the seller and he will send me another one for free, I was lucky this time. Hopefully this time I'd be able to put this loop to work soon :D
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the kind words. I will continue to put best efforts in improving the videos with each new episode and making the content enjoyable to watch. I'm currently far in the process for the next video, which will showcase adding a custom loop to an existing build for under $350. Thanks again for watching and commenting
Thanks for your comment 🙏Right on! I had to look up Banjo bolts. But yes, I do like the look of the torque fittings and it is likely EKWB took inspiration from elsewhere for their design. Thanks for watching
Just watched a few of your videos (4080 Tuf stuff and this one). Subscribed, good content, and good quality. Can I suggest adding a voltage lock overclock to your set of benchmarks? Instead of just adding a + to the GPU core. Y usually just pick a voltage and lock in a mhz point and I know a lot of overclockers do the same, would love to see the results that way.
Thank you for your comment 🙏 and Thank you for watching those videos. I appreciate the encouragement and feedback. I think you could be right on. I'm still learning and what you are describing makes sense. It will take a little time for me to do more research and do enough testing for me to understand it more. So you may not see it immediately in the next video but it's something I am considering. Any tips? Thanks again
@@GER-Da_vid When u have a much money and hands grow from ass - u got a assambly from video. Soft tubing made for simple connection of 2 fittings, but u made a monster of fool because u can't connect 2 fittings with soft tube!
Thanks for the comment 🙏Haha! Good eye, my friend. I simply missed the peel. For a shot like that, I had to plan out exactly how I was going to do all the peels and unscrewing and rescrewing heatsinks, etc etc. Like 30+ steps that I would rehearse before I did the footage. I had something in mind and I wanted to see if I could do it and it turned out okay I thought. But yea, I totally missed the peel on the first NVME slot. When I was edited the footage, I saw it and I went back and took it out and peeled it. But yea, the peels can't be redone. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps
I'm trying to build my first loop, this is super helpful. Couple questions, I'll probably skip the QDC as I hear they limit flow and are actually expensive and hard to find. Would just regular compression fittings work and do I need all of those extenders and 90's? Second, why did you put a rad on the top instead of the bottom? You are pushing hot air through the fins, shouldn't they both both be on intake not just one? Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good questions. QDCs are not required at all. I use them out of enjoyment and convenience. Regular compression fittings would absolutely work. It's sort of the default. Extenders and 90 degree fittings are simply to make the runs more adjustable and have the runs point in a certain direction. Not required, particularly for soft-tubing. I use them because I am trying to balance form and function. I put the rad on the top because of the Vertical GPU mount. I wanted the GPU vertical to showcase the flow path. As for the intake vs exhaust, I had 3 set to exhaust and 3 to intake to have balanced air pressure in the case. I prefer to have the noctuas (since they are visible) to be set to exhaust as they look better from that side. So then I set the 3x T30s (that are not visible) to intake for balance. Shouldn't really matter which way you're pulling or pushing air. Temps were good in this setup, as usual. Hope that helps and thanks again for watching.
Great video 👍 Out of curiosity, did you flush your rads before building the loop? Just wondering if they needed anything more than just some distilled run through them, or if something more aggressive like Rad Clean was necessary. Thanks!
Thanks for your comment🙏Oof, it depends. I can only speak from my own experience as I have heard a lot of different methods. I have bought but never tried any rad cleaner. I noped out after reading the instructions. I will flush the radiator with water. My understanding is that it also differs radiator from radiator. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork Thanks for your reply! I ended up not using the Rad Clean in the Heatkiller rads. Just flushed them overnight with distilled. They were basically already clean inside based on what I saw. Someone on Reddit stated that Watercool already pre-flushes all of their rads, so I guess it wasn't necessary. Just wanted to add that after watching this video I was inspired to basically clone this build for myself. Currently in the process of assembling it together. I think what you did here is fantastic, and I really liked the selection of parts used. I made a few small tweaks: - Used XPG Gentle Typhoon fans instead of the Noctuas. (this was a color-matching theme thing since I bought the gray version of the O11 EVO) - Installed intake fans on the bottom bracket and used a Heatkiller 150 tube res instead so it would fit in the same space where you mounted it. - Used a Thermalright AM5 Secure Frame bracket on the CPU - Mounted the T30 fans in a pull orientation instead of push - Installed front fans with the mesh kit for the O11 EVO Otherwise pretty much everything else is as you spec'ed it out. Thanks again for the great video detailing all of this!
@@Ketzer77 Wow, that is awesome to hear. Those tweaks are solid choices. Gentle Typhoon can easily replace the Noctuas. I chose Noctua to go with a sort of a small theme where some of the more miscellaneous parts are Noctua, if available. I also like the idea of having intake fans on the bottom to increase airflow. Having a smaller reservoir doesn't matter. I went with the large reservoir...well, because I liked how it looked. Good call on the thermalright. I used one of their frames on an intel CPU before and really liked how it turned out. And good idea on the additional front mounted fans. More airflow is a good thing. Congrats on your build my friend. 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks for your comment 🙏Do you mean the CPU temp? Performance Boost Overdrive (PBO) is not on. Otherwise, its two 360 48mm radiators with 3x Noctuas and 3x Phantek T30s for the cooling. For these builds, I'm typically more concerned about GPU cooling than CPU cooling. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Sure here you go: CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D AM5 CPU Block - Optimus Foundation AM5 CPU Thermal Guard - Noctua NA-STPG1 CPU Thermal Paste - Noctua NT-H2 Motherboard - ASUS ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming WIFI Memory - G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO DDR5 64GB 6000MT Case - Lian Li Dynamic O11 EVO Radiator 1 - Watercool HK 360-L Radiator 1 Fans - Phanteks T30 x3 Radiator 2 - Watercool HK 360-L Radiator 2 Fans - Noctua 12-25A x3 Fittings - EKWB Torque Fittings - Optimus Flex Compression 16/10 Fittings - Koolance QD3 Tubing - Watercool HK EPDM 16/10 Reservoir - Watercool HK 200 Tube Reservoir Mount - Watercool Decoupling Unit Pump - Watercool WCP D5 PWM Loop Cleaner - Mayhems Blitz Phase 2 Power Supply - Be Quiet! Dark Power 13 850W Controller - Aquacomputer Quadro Coolant - Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra This is also usually included in the description of the video.
"AMDip" the 1% lows often suffer on the 7800x3D and 7950x3D cpus. May have something to do with the lower CPU frequencies than what you see on intel's 14900K. I'd much rather have a 14900K or 13900KS and overclock them and pair them with 8000 DDR5 memory and a custom water loop. Yes more money, but a lot more fun to mess around with.
I wont use quick disconnect unless your loop is driven by 2 serial pump. Their resistance is too high and cause serious pressure drop, reduce the flowrate.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I recognize flowrate can be reduced with QDCs (and also 90 degree adapters, etc). For this build, I had planned to add an Aquacomputer Next Flow sensor. But I couldn't find a suitable location (since it requires straight fittings). Having that flow sensor would have allowed me to see the flow rate and provide another data point. Thanks again for your comment and I hope to test QDCs with flowrate sensors in the future.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Great question. Copper has marginally the best performance. A downside for some to Copper is that it is copper colored and that it can oxidize, changing its color. Nickel-plating addresses those issues but at a cost to performance. The quality of copper has likely also improved since it was first used in watercooling and before nickel-plating, so I am not sure if oxidation is much of an issue now-a-days. Some may ask why nickel plating is more expensive if copper is potentially higher performing. Well, its an extra step and that costs something. Hope that helps.
I'd really like to know how you filled the loop. There's barely any room to get to the top of the res, and the HK rads don't have ports on the other side.
Thanks for your comment🙏and thanks for watching! Correct, there is very little clearance up there to fill. But I used a simple filling bottle. I'm going to copy and paste the description of the bottle from the website below. The main thing is that there is a flexible tube (size of a straw) from the squeeze bottle that you just slide into the inlet and squeeze. Bottle for filling up a waterloop! A wash bottle should be part of the basic equipment of every water cooling enthusiast.The bottle is perfect for filling the AGB with a coolant but can also be used to siphon the coolant from the loop when empty, for example, to maintain the coolers. Technical details: Material: PE-LD Capacity: 1000ml Height of the bottle without tube: 21cm Height of bottle with tube: 32cm Lower diameter: 9cm Scope of delivery: 1x wash bottle 1000ml PE-LD 1x riser tube 1x sealing cap
@@vectornetwork I did more than watch. I ended up ordering almost everything you used in the video. I went with an Optimus waterblock for my new 4090 Strix, a 150 Heatkiller Tube res (for more room on top) and a couple aquacooler inline temp sensors, but I liked the way you set up the loop, and I already have an O11 EVO case, sooo... it made it easier.
@@BerzerkaDurk Wow, my man! Those are all good choices. Makes sense to go with a smaller tube. I went with the big one for effect. I tried to incorporate some in-line sensors (alpahcool and aquacomputer) but couldn't figure out how to balance the form/function, so I can see how you would add them because they're useful. 4090 Strix and Optimus block is totally on point. Whenever Optimus decides on releasing their block for the Founders Edition (supposed to be coming within a month or two ...) I'll do a video for the Optimus block and then swapping it in for the heatkiller block and then I can have comparisons of the HK and Optimus block on both the test rig and also in this black evo rig. It'll be interesting to see the data and hopefully I'll be able to produce a video on it. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏Correct. Both a male and female fitting is needed with the other side being a variety of options including the standard G 1/4" threads, or different tube sizing. This can easily add up in price. It's for convenience, and to see how it works. Not required. Hope that helps.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 For the 3x Phantek T30s on the backside, I used the supplied Fan cable from Phanteks. The T30s daisy chain to each other, so only 1 extension cable is needed from one of the fans. For the 3x Noctua on the topside, I used the "Cable Matters 2-Pack 3 way 4 pin PWM fan splitter cable 12 inches" Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This is a good question. I think the theory is that the Male part should go into the Female part, amirite? In this case, its the opposite. It's because I used what I had and I got the threaded male parts because I would like to also potentially use the QDCs for an external radiator. In that case, I would like something smaller protruding from the back of a PC case. I think if I had to redo it all again, I would lean towards the Female part being threaded, I think that is more common. Although there are parts for every type, so there are use cases for everything. Hope that helps
I am angry with the designer of the reservoir for using multicolored cables! Cmon man, the reservoir itself is beautiful, why did they have to do it like that.
The AMD Ryzen uses the AM5 socket, the LGA socket is for Intel processors. You make yourself look pretty clueless about computer hardware. Do your research.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 AM5 does use the LGA 1718 socket with the pins on the motherboard like Intel. This is a change from AM4, where a PGA socket was used with pins on the CPU. I try my best not to make errors. While I do make errors this is not one of them
u guys are worth at least 100000 subscribers.not many do gpu block coverage like u guys
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Ha ha! Thanks brother! I think we added something 70 or so subscribers since the last comment. We will get there one day. In the mean time, I am thankful for each and everyone and I am stoked whenever people watch and comment. This is all very encouraging and I plan to continue to make the videos better and make more of them. Hope that helps.
I came across y'all today while searching to see if one could convert the lower priced PNY 4080's with the schitzo fans to liquid cooled. Was not expecting you would speed level my liquid cooling knowledge and wipe away all doubts about making my new build fully liquid cooled. This channel deserves to blow up.
Thanks for your comment 🙏Thank you friend. You totally get it and I am happy you're able to receive the knowledge. Some people just need to see it once. I try to make it so the viewer is the one doing the build. Starting the content right away. Showing the product up close and doing it literally step by step. It's not rocket science. But there are a good amount of steps. Thanks again
Nice build! Heatkiller is so good. I appreciate your determination to clean out that red coolant.
Thanks for your comment 🙏Thank you for noticing. Cleaning out the red coolant wasn't something I wanted to do, but deep down, I knew it had to be done and I am happy that I got some footage (a lot was cut because some of the really good closeups revealed that I could have cleaned it better hehe). The dye from the double protect ultra was pretty strong so it was unlikely that the mayhems would clean it completely without some scrubbing. I am only using colored coolant because it shows off the flow paths much better and just has overall more visual interest than clear. I would recommend clear for anyone doing a loop for their own setup. I have mayhems coolant for the next set of blocks, so I will see how that goes. Never tried it but its likely the only other coolant I will use besides the DP ultra for now. I appreciate your continued feedback and hope to make incremental improvements with each video. Next one is the Alphacool Core water block for the 4080 TUF (strix model, but fits TUF). I just got the block in and will be shooting today and hopefully get an episode out sooner than later. Hope that helps
Please enjoy watching 🙏
Very nice presentation, and thank you for listing the products used, makes me want to repeat this build
Thanks for your comment 🙏It's encouraging to hear that the video and the list is helpful. The video is to help take the mystique and mystery out of watercooling while putting the product and process front and center. I try to make it like a first person perspective and make so its like the viewer is doing the build. Hope that helps
You make it look so easy! I appreciate that you go over every step and explain what you're doing. I've never watercooled anything but I was able to follow along and understand what you were doing. Thank you :)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 That is really awesome to hear. Partly because how you describe it is spot on. For example, I'm leaning into this being sort of a first person view and really trying to take the mystique and mystery out of the whole process. I make sure to let people know what component is being used but not trying to add any subjective commentary. I cover the hands so the focus can be on the product and that one can imagine themselves doing it. Thank you again for watching and for commenting. 🙌
Overkill PC build ❤ Great video
Thanks for your comment 🙏You know it. I tried to keep it balanced at least. Also, I wanted a dark theme to counter balance the other inverted EVO build with the white theme. In the end, the EPDM heatkiller soft tubing was a highlight to work with. Thanks again for watching.
Absolutely clean build, i love it!!
First youtuber i've seen use AquaComputer parts :) Awesome work buddy! (One small nit, that isn't a jet plate as it does not direct the coolant into the micro fins, its just a crossover plate used to have the coolant jump that passage)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Oh, that's a good nit. I genuinely have a hard time finding information about some of the inner parts of these water blocks. Now I know, it's a crossover plate. That makes sense. Thanks. I totally like using aquaconputer because it helps me control the loop, where I don't need to rely on the motherboard as much. If you're a fan, I hope you stay tuned because the next video will have 3 aquaconputer parts (d5 next, next flow, quadro) in a Mora/Noctua/420 build. Thanks again
Another awesome vídeo! Great presentation and what a nice taste building these things :D
Looking forward for the next video.
Obs: After 6 months I finally completed my custom loop today and...the radiador leaked, It was a manufacturing defect.
Lets see how the seller will go along with It.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you for watching! Next video will be the Alphacool Core water block on the RTX 4080 TUF. I am done with footage and working on editing next. Hopefully it'll be out sooner than later. Oof, a radiator leaking due to a defect isn't something that is easily accounted for. Normally, you can prevent leakage by being careful, but not with a defect. I have been through my fair share of leaks (all due to my own error and I think one to a bad fitting) and its always the same. Stay calm and clean it up. Nothing has ever broken from a leak, just mess to clean up. Hope it works out for you.
@@vectornetwork Exactly! And what saved me was an old cloth that I used to clean the PC and a good drainage system.
About the radiator, I've talked to the seller and he will send me another one for free, I was lucky this time.
Hopefully this time I'd be able to put this loop to work soon :D
Looks sick, this channel is underrated !
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the kind words. I will continue to put best efforts in improving the videos with each new episode and making the content enjoyable to watch. I'm currently far in the process for the next video, which will showcase adding a custom loop to an existing build for under $350. Thanks again for watching and commenting
Really like those 90* fittings. They look like Banjo bolts!
Thanks for your comment 🙏Right on! I had to look up Banjo bolts. But yes, I do like the look of the torque fittings and it is likely EKWB took inspiration from elsewhere for their design. Thanks for watching
Awesome video. Thanks
love this build, i was thinking to use heatkiller for my next build, currently using a aphacool cpu and gpu blocks + 1 rad and 1 ek rad
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you for watching and I sincerely appreciate that you enjoyed the build. Alphacool blocks sounds good 🙌
thx
Thanks for your comment 🙏 and thank you for watching and commenting!
Just watched a few of your videos (4080 Tuf stuff and this one). Subscribed, good content, and good quality. Can I suggest adding a voltage lock overclock to your set of benchmarks? Instead of just adding a + to the GPU core. Y usually just pick a voltage and lock in a mhz point and I know a lot of overclockers do the same, would love to see the results that way.
Thank you for your comment 🙏 and Thank you for watching those videos. I appreciate the encouragement and feedback. I think you could be right on. I'm still learning and what you are describing makes sense. It will take a little time for me to do more research and do enough testing for me to understand it more. So you may not see it immediately in the next video but it's something I am considering. Any tips? Thanks again
Epic noob - soft tubing with additional quick release connector!!!
And now? Has no negative impact on cooling. Hard tubes just look better, nothing more.
@@GER-Da_vid When u have a much money and hands grow from ass - u got a assambly from video. Soft tubing made for simple connection of 2 fittings, but u made a monster of fool because u can't connect 2 fittings with soft tube!
@@daniel_spb qd3 is for easier maintenance without draining the entire loop, moron. even states it in the video
Very nice build, nice vid, but am i the only one who is confused about the non removed protective film from the thermalpad under the Samsung 980 pro?
Thanks for the comment 🙏Haha! Good eye, my friend. I simply missed the peel. For a shot like that, I had to plan out exactly how I was going to do all the peels and unscrewing and rescrewing heatsinks, etc etc. Like 30+ steps that I would rehearse before I did the footage. I had something in mind and I wanted to see if I could do it and it turned out okay I thought. But yea, I totally missed the peel on the first NVME slot. When I was edited the footage, I saw it and I went back and took it out and peeled it. But yea, the peels can't be redone. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps
I'm trying to build my first loop, this is super helpful. Couple questions, I'll probably skip the QDC as I hear they limit flow and are actually expensive and hard to find. Would just regular compression fittings work and do I need all of those extenders and 90's? Second, why did you put a rad on the top instead of the bottom? You are pushing hot air through the fins, shouldn't they both both be on intake not just one? Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good questions. QDCs are not required at all. I use them out of enjoyment and convenience. Regular compression fittings would absolutely work. It's sort of the default. Extenders and 90 degree fittings are simply to make the runs more adjustable and have the runs point in a certain direction. Not required, particularly for soft-tubing. I use them because I am trying to balance form and function. I put the rad on the top because of the Vertical GPU mount. I wanted the GPU vertical to showcase the flow path. As for the intake vs exhaust, I had 3 set to exhaust and 3 to intake to have balanced air pressure in the case. I prefer to have the noctuas (since they are visible) to be set to exhaust as they look better from that side. So then I set the 3x T30s (that are not visible) to intake for balance. Shouldn't really matter which way you're pulling or pushing air. Temps were good in this setup, as usual. Hope that helps and thanks again for watching.
Great video 👍 Out of curiosity, did you flush your rads before building the loop? Just wondering if they needed anything more than just some distilled run through them, or if something more aggressive like Rad Clean was necessary. Thanks!
Thanks for your comment🙏Oof, it depends. I can only speak from my own experience as I have heard a lot of different methods. I have bought but never tried any rad cleaner. I noped out after reading the instructions. I will flush the radiator with water. My understanding is that it also differs radiator from radiator. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork Thanks for your reply! I ended up not using the Rad Clean in the Heatkiller rads. Just flushed them overnight with distilled. They were basically already clean inside based on what I saw. Someone on Reddit stated that Watercool already pre-flushes all of their rads, so I guess it wasn't necessary.
Just wanted to add that after watching this video I was inspired to basically clone this build for myself. Currently in the process of assembling it together. I think what you did here is fantastic, and I really liked the selection of parts used. I made a few small tweaks:
- Used XPG Gentle Typhoon fans instead of the Noctuas. (this was a color-matching theme thing since I bought the gray version of the O11 EVO)
- Installed intake fans on the bottom bracket and used a Heatkiller 150 tube res instead so it would fit in the same space where you mounted it.
- Used a Thermalright AM5 Secure Frame bracket on the CPU
- Mounted the T30 fans in a pull orientation instead of push
- Installed front fans with the mesh kit for the O11 EVO
Otherwise pretty much everything else is as you spec'ed it out. Thanks again for the great video detailing all of this!
@@Ketzer77 Wow, that is awesome to hear. Those tweaks are solid choices. Gentle Typhoon can easily replace the Noctuas. I chose Noctua to go with a sort of a small theme where some of the more miscellaneous parts are Noctua, if available. I also like the idea of having intake fans on the bottom to increase airflow. Having a smaller reservoir doesn't matter. I went with the large reservoir...well, because I liked how it looked. Good call on the thermalright. I used one of their frames on an intel CPU before and really liked how it turned out. And good idea on the additional front mounted fans. More airflow is a good thing. Congrats on your build my friend. 🙌🙌🙌
46 degress UNDER LOAD? That's insane, is that for real? I have a hard time believing it. Are you gonna do a benchmark video in the near future?
Thanks for your comment 🙏Do you mean the CPU temp? Performance Boost Overdrive (PBO) is not on. Otherwise, its two 360 48mm radiators with 3x Noctuas and 3x Phantek T30s for the cooling. For these builds, I'm typically more concerned about GPU cooling than CPU cooling. Hope that helps
If you could post a parts list that would be great
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Sure here you go:
CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D AM5
CPU Block - Optimus Foundation AM5
CPU Thermal Guard - Noctua NA-STPG1
CPU Thermal Paste - Noctua NT-H2
Motherboard - ASUS ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming WIFI
Memory - G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO DDR5 64GB 6000MT
Case - Lian Li Dynamic O11 EVO
Radiator 1 - Watercool HK 360-L
Radiator 1 Fans - Phanteks T30 x3
Radiator 2 - Watercool HK 360-L
Radiator 2 Fans - Noctua 12-25A x3
Fittings - EKWB Torque
Fittings - Optimus Flex Compression 16/10
Fittings - Koolance QD3
Tubing - Watercool HK EPDM 16/10
Reservoir - Watercool HK 200 Tube
Reservoir Mount - Watercool Decoupling Unit
Pump - Watercool WCP D5 PWM
Loop Cleaner - Mayhems Blitz Phase 2
Power Supply - Be Quiet! Dark Power 13 850W
Controller - Aquacomputer Quadro
Coolant - Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra
This is also usually included in the description of the video.
Hello, is the Heatkiller for Inno3D X3 OC too? What is you Temp today?
"AMDip" the 1% lows often suffer on the 7800x3D and 7950x3D cpus. May have something to do with the lower CPU frequencies than what you see on intel's 14900K. I'd much rather have a 14900K or 13900KS and overclock them and pair them with 8000 DDR5 memory and a custom water loop. Yes more money, but a lot more fun to mess around with.
Still need coil whine info, did your 4090 fe have it bad? And did the heatkiller help lessen/ mitigate it?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 see my reply to your other comment on coil whine. Hope that helps
I wont use quick disconnect unless your loop is driven by 2 serial pump. Their resistance is too high and cause serious pressure drop, reduce the flowrate.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I recognize flowrate can be reduced with QDCs (and also 90 degree adapters, etc). For this build, I had planned to add an Aquacomputer Next Flow sensor. But I couldn't find a suitable location (since it requires straight fittings). Having that flow sensor would have allowed me to see the flow rate and provide another data point. Thanks again for your comment and I hope to test QDCs with flowrate sensors in the future.
I am new to watercooling, I was wondering is copper or nickel ideal for cold plate finish on the cpu waterblock?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Great question. Copper has marginally the best performance. A downside for some to Copper is that it is copper colored and that it can oxidize, changing its color. Nickel-plating addresses those issues but at a cost to performance. The quality of copper has likely also improved since it was first used in watercooling and before nickel-plating, so I am not sure if oxidation is much of an issue now-a-days. Some may ask why nickel plating is more expensive if copper is potentially higher performing. Well, its an extra step and that costs something. Hope that helps.
Oh, for the love of God. Lian Li doesn't make the vertical mount anymore. They still make the silly upright mount, though. SMH
Oh. Crisis averted. Lian Li have designed a "universal" mount that works with many of their cases. Phew.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good to know that they changed some of their accessories around. They are always tinkering over there at Lian Li.
I'd really like to know how you filled the loop. There's barely any room to get to the top of the res, and the HK rads don't have ports on the other side.
Thanks for your comment🙏and thanks for watching! Correct, there is very little clearance up there to fill. But I used a simple filling bottle. I'm going to copy and paste the description of the bottle from the website below. The main thing is that there is a flexible tube (size of a straw) from the squeeze bottle that you just slide into the inlet and squeeze.
Bottle for filling up a waterloop!
A wash bottle should be part of the basic equipment of every water cooling enthusiast.The bottle is perfect for filling the AGB with a coolant but can also be used to siphon the coolant from the loop when empty, for example, to maintain the coolers.
Technical details:
Material: PE-LD
Capacity: 1000ml
Height of the bottle without tube: 21cm
Height of bottle with tube: 32cm
Lower diameter: 9cm
Scope of delivery:
1x wash bottle 1000ml PE-LD
1x riser tube
1x sealing cap
@@vectornetwork thanks for the info!
@@vectornetwork I did more than watch. I ended up ordering almost everything you used in the video. I went with an Optimus waterblock for my new 4090 Strix, a 150 Heatkiller Tube res (for more room on top) and a couple aquacooler inline temp sensors, but I liked the way you set up the loop, and I already have an O11 EVO case, sooo... it made it easier.
@@BerzerkaDurk Wow, my man! Those are all good choices. Makes sense to go with a smaller tube. I went with the big one for effect. I tried to incorporate some in-line sensors (alpahcool and aquacomputer) but couldn't figure out how to balance the form/function, so I can see how you would add them because they're useful. 4090 Strix and Optimus block is totally on point. Whenever Optimus decides on releasing their block for the Founders Edition (supposed to be coming within a month or two ...) I'll do a video for the Optimus block and then swapping it in for the heatkiller block and then I can have comparisons of the HK and Optimus block on both the test rig and also in this black evo rig. It'll be interesting to see the data and hopefully I'll be able to produce a video on it. Hope that helps
You need both the female compression fittings and the male g 1/4 to implement quick-connect. Very expensive fittings.
Thanks for your comment 🙏Correct. Both a male and female fitting is needed with the other side being a variety of options including the standard G 1/4" threads, or different tube sizing. This can easily add up in price. It's for convenience, and to see how it works. Not required. Hope that helps.
What are using to connect your 6 fans to two single pwm cables?
What is the exact cable?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 For the 3x Phantek T30s on the backside, I used the supplied Fan cable from Phanteks. The T30s daisy chain to each other, so only 1 extension cable is needed from one of the fans. For the 3x Noctua on the topside, I used the "Cable Matters 2-Pack 3 way 4 pin PWM fan splitter cable 12 inches" Hope that helps
When using Koolance Qdc3 is it preferrable that the threaded part be male or female because I see he used male here.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This is a good question. I think the theory is that the Male part should go into the Female part, amirite? In this case, its the opposite. It's because I used what I had and I got the threaded male parts because I would like to also potentially use the QDCs for an external radiator. In that case, I would like something smaller protruding from the back of a PC case. I think if I had to redo it all again, I would lean towards the Female part being threaded, I think that is more common. Although there are parts for every type, so there are use cases for everything. Hope that helps
I dont see the use of quick connects when you.need to disassemble yearly or every 6 months and clean
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I have to agree. I made a new build out of a lot of these parts and did not include the QDCs this time around.
I am angry with the designer of the reservoir for using multicolored cables! Cmon man, the reservoir itself is beautiful, why did they have to do it like that.
The AMD Ryzen uses the AM5 socket, the LGA socket is for Intel processors. You make yourself look pretty clueless about computer hardware. Do your research.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 AM5 does use the LGA 1718 socket with the pins on the motherboard like Intel. This is a change from AM4, where a PGA socket was used with pins on the CPU. I try my best not to make errors. While I do make errors this is not one of them