As I'm sure you've figured out, the seals only go on the intake valve. Reason is that the exhaust runs so hot they would burn off anyway. Thanks for the videos
If you have a good engine shop nearby, I highly recommended having them install the sleeves. After two broken sleeves that is what I did and it was less than $200. You got lucky.
Harbor Freight only SOLD the engine stand. It was you that did not meet your expectations. Next time try dry ice in acetone and the sleeve will DROP in. Hint: do not wipe acetone off, it will prevent ice crystals from forming and will boil off ie evaporate, out. That was why you had to pound the poor thing in, it was growing in size with each passing second due to ice crystals. And a freezer only contracts a sleeve like that maybe .002 at the most while it is still in the freezer, that's only .001 a side. with each 30 degree increase in ambient temp it grows .001 toward it's original diameter. another thing, never use a cotton towel right before assembly, too much lint is left on the surfaces being assembled. Use lint free cloth or just your hand for final wipe.
Thanks for the advice. Like we have said, this was our first time rebuilding a tractor engine and we were just doing what we knew. The tractor runs fine now, but if we do another tractor we will keep that in mind. It will probably save us a lot of time and work in the future.
Lol sounds like me and my son when working on stuff. I'll say something like put some balls in it son. Then he'll really turn lose, I'm like to many balls son. Lmbo Lvoe the video. 👍🏻
I agree with the installation tip of yagabagadaga (say that one time fast). One helpful suggestion, if using your method, is to cut a 2x4 to length and place it between the engine block and the ground. This will create another support and will illuminate the bounce when you pound in the sleeve.If you ever build another puck for this, tap and thread the center. Then install a long bolt in the center. Then you can use it as a press to install sleeves as well as remove them. Same principle as a harmonic balancer puller.
You know guys take this with a grain of salt because I like your video but if it wasn’t for places like Harbour Freight I would have hardly any tools at all because I could afford the snap-on or Mac I live for stores like that and what you were doing pounding in the sleeves like that, the engine stand isn’t made for that so it wouldn’t matter what kind of engine stand you have it would still bounce! And while I am giving you Guys a hard time, putting the sleeves in the freezer is what I learned to and it always worked but you cannot wasn’t time , you have to be ready to go and you have to be extremely fast like Speedy Gonzalaz fast! But don’t get discouraged just Carry On !!! And God Bless!
As I'm sure you've figured out, the seals only go on the intake valve. Reason is that the exhaust runs so hot they would burn off anyway. Thanks for the videos
If you have a good engine shop nearby, I highly recommended having them install the sleeves. After two broken sleeves that is what I did and it was less than $200. You got lucky.
I asked Steiner and the seals only go on the intake, so you only need 4.
Harbor Freight only SOLD the engine stand. It was you that did not meet your expectations. Next time try dry ice in acetone and the sleeve will DROP in. Hint: do not wipe acetone off, it will prevent ice crystals from
forming and will boil off ie evaporate, out. That was why you had to pound the poor thing in, it was growing in size with each passing second due to ice crystals. And a freezer only contracts a sleeve like that maybe .002 at the most while it is still in the freezer, that's only .001 a side. with each 30 degree increase in ambient temp it grows .001 toward it's original diameter. another thing, never use a cotton towel right before assembly, too much lint is left on the surfaces being assembled. Use lint free cloth or just your hand for final wipe.
Thanks for the advice. Like we have said, this was our first time rebuilding a tractor engine and we were just doing what we knew. The tractor runs fine now, but if we do another tractor we will keep that in mind. It will probably save us a lot of time and work in the future.
Lol sounds like me and my son when working on stuff. I'll say something like put some balls in it son. Then he'll really turn lose, I'm like to many balls son. Lmbo
Lvoe the video. 👍🏻
I agree with the installation tip of yagabagadaga (say that one time fast). One helpful suggestion, if using your method, is to cut a 2x4 to length and place it between the engine block and the ground. This will create another support and will illuminate the bounce when you pound in the sleeve.If you ever build another puck for this, tap and thread the center. Then install a long bolt in the center. Then you can use it as a press to install sleeves as well as remove them. Same principle as a harmonic balancer puller.
You know guys take this with a grain of salt because I like your video but if it wasn’t for places like Harbour Freight I would have hardly any tools at all because I could afford the snap-on or Mac I live for stores like that and what you were doing pounding in the sleeves like that, the engine stand isn’t made for that so it wouldn’t matter what kind of engine stand you have it would still bounce! And while I am giving you Guys a hard time, putting the sleeves in the freezer is what I learned to and it always worked but you cannot wasn’t time , you have to be ready to go and you have to be extremely fast like Speedy Gonzalaz fast! But don’t get discouraged just Carry On !!! And God Bless!
True! Many tools of ours have also come from Harbor Freight. Thanks!
Correct. 1947 was the last year of the 2N. The 8N came out in 1948-1952.
I thought the 8n didn't come out until 1948