5:58 holy shit dude u just solved exactly what was happening to me. id see the flame go up into the burner and freak out & shut it off for the day. thank u so much
Hi Walter I have the two burner vevor forge here in Australia and while I intend on upgrading at some stage the vevor forge is a little beauty to start out on and to get a basic understanding of forging and smithing and it's a good place to start at a reasonable price, having used the forge for awhile I've decided knife making and blacksmithing is a hobby I'd like to continue persuing so I've invested in a decent 2"x72" Nordic edge grinder here in Australia and will be upgrading and making a forge capable of decent size billets for damascus. Thanks for your TH-cam posts, they have been very informative and interesting and they are a pleasure to watch. Thanks again and best wishes from Australia.👍✌️
I am using the triangularforge for over 1 year but i am using the one burnerforge with a thinner firebrick and it heats up fast and works great also for damascus steel. I think its not so bad for this price and it saves gas because of fast heating the chamber if using firebricks bevore and back. Its not my first forge but one of the best.
The points on the regulator and making a steel elbow for the hose were great pieces of advice. Came here to figure out what 2 or 3 burner forge I should get off amazon, but I learned way more. Thanks alot!
I bought a 2 burner gas forge and have made a lot of money making mountian man knives and meat hooks and things like that for people. They really do work and even as crude as mine is I can get forge welding tempratures using just one burner. I plan to go to a coal forge eventually though.
@@ryw00d Dont have to mess with the wool and keeping it sprayed down and coated so i dont get it in my lungs. Also i rather not use propane as where I live I can pretty much get coal for free on my own poperty.
I have a relatively cheap 2 burner forge that actually is kinda oval shaped, I haven't had to use the second burner yet. It works well for my use, and has the length for edge cases such as swords when I get to that point.
Same here excpet I have used the second one when normalizing/annealing slightly bigger knives and on a couple damascus attempts, just to get the overall heat up as much as possible. (one successful one not). I don't use it very often.
Did you happen to get the Hell's Forge model? Mine is oval shaped with two burners as well and I was wondering if anyone else was having trouble reaching welding temperatures like I am. It doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the chokes, even with the gas at full pressure I just can't get hot enough to stick a forge weld with my model.
@@brianlawson3757 I got a Cast Master that looks just like the Hell's forge. I tried 5 layer damascus first and had full success but since then I tried a 9 layer and failed. I also messed up and realized I had plans so I had to stop maybe 5 heat cycles in and continue the next day. I don't think that helped. If I brick off the back end and crank both burners I think i saw maybe 2390ish in the sweet spot. It seems to get there but it is also cranked up.
@@brianlawson3757 I got a DFSW2 from devils forge. I haven't bothered with trying to weld with it yet, so I don't know if it can reach a welding heat. I have accidentally melted a copper bar in it once. The Hells Forge brand equipment is more expensive and at least in images it looks like it is probably higher quality than what I have.
Thanks for the reply, y'all. I'm really scratching my head as no matter how I configure my forge, I just can't get to that magic temperature, and it's been frustrating me for a while now. I can forge and heat treat just fine out of it, but I can't weld a tomahawk or make pattern welded steel. It seems like there's too wide a gap between the two burners as I get a cool patch between them . I can see it in the firebrick laid out for the floor.
Have a Simond Store Amazon forge with two burners and I had to get my own refractory cement because it only came with a tiny bit of an unknown brand. Works just fine.
Plistex is a great liner to help mitigate Flux eating your refractory after it dries and is fired it turns into a ceramic that is very Flux and heat resistant
Ive only made 3 knives, but what ive been doing is digging a hole, putting a steel pipe in it, duct taping the other end to a hair dryer and starting a fire in the pit. It gets hot enough to melt the end of the steel pipe but i have no idea how hot it actually is and theres no way to control the temperature but it will get you started
Me too; I built my burners from scrap though and while they do work they don't have adjustable carbs and I have to have a fan on them so they don't sputter. I'd like to do a ribbon burner but they're a little out of my fabrication ability.
Lol I was looking into buying a pre built forge but your comment reminded my dumbass that I'm a bricklayer, and I could probably build one for 50 bucks
Steel that's forged in a more expensive forge, has more chi. But if you're wearing shoes and have no beard, you lose all of the advantage anyways. But hand-blown charcoal forges are the best. as long as you bow to them every morning. But it all becomes moot if you expose your blade to moonlight, or forget to point it North when you anneal, normalize or quench. Or have Western music playing while you work.
Your videos are a great resource for any beginner knife maker like myself. I mainly do stock removal but was considering picking up one of these in the 2 burner version mainly just for heat treating until i can afford an oven. would be a decent upgrade from the makeshift fire brick forge i use now
Good man but I'd get a good hi-temp oven as soon as you can. So you're not limited to (crappy) simple carbon steels. Though you can get a setup for your gas forge like I got for knowing and regulating the temperature so you can work with some high alloy ( stainless )steels but still way better with an oven and the rest.
I picked up a one burner Vevor for under $100. I am new to the hobby, will only be doing material removal projects for some time, and just wanted something that I can have consistent heat treatment with. When I do start actually forging knives, I can upgrade as needed. But, would rather save the money for a 2x72.
I have one of the square forges. I lined it with 65% zirconia Mineral Wash. Then I took soft firebricks and cut 1" x 2" notches in them and put one in the middle of the forge and one in the front to contain the heat . It reaches maybe 2000 degrees on 10 psi. I do not like the rubber gas hoses! Had a fireball out of middle burner when i lit front burner, and middle/back burners were not on! other problem is that it burns back into the overly large burner tube if you try to run it a 5 psi. I am planning to turn t on its side and see if i can run it at 1500 for heat treating.
1 year later, Vevor does NOT include the refractory cement for their "panda shaped" forges any more, nor the paint brush to apply it. You can still buy it separate, which of course is an added cost, but you can also find this same forge on a decent sale under $150 (i got mine for $120 on memorial day), its normal price is now about $190.
I notice that the burners are oriented to the centre of the forge cavity. Do you have any thoughts on this design VS. orienting them to run the flame along the surface of the forge wall to wrap around the cavity?
Just looking at the website I feel like the octagonal one may be the best of both. It has the burner rail of the triangle and a bit more room like the square version. If I cant get the induction setup I have a bit kore dialed in that way be how I go.
Well if you buy a 2 burner version for 115$ its a decent price for a shell.Then throw the burners into trash where they belong and build one according to book Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter.Tilt the burner inlet at 85° and you will have decent forge. 3/4" burner should work fine ,it doesnt say how large entrance is .just make sure to read trough all the book since its written a bit wierd -chapters are bound together. Regulator and hose will be extra expense but you can make a decent forge out of this chinese trash . Would it be better to make your own -depends on the prices of materials and equipment you have . Definetlly check the book ,its best one on the subject of burner making and forges/furnaces.
I've got a 2 burner like the triangle one and it's pretty good. I would have liked some rigidizer for the wool as it would have made it easier to apply the cement.
Those burners are super bad ,they couldnt make worse air intake for venturi burner.Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter (2004) -book that shows you how to make your own burner and forges/furnaces that actually works amazingly well.
I was wondering if this would be a better option, could you just shut the one burner off for smaller use to save gas consumption, and also have that extra burner for longer material as well I want to get a 3 burner just wondering if it's possible to keep one burner off
OK, for the money they are probably OK to start with, but as with much of the equipment I bought when I was starting out I wish I'd waited and purchased stuff that was more than I needed when I was starting out. I have a two burner I'm replacing with a ribbon burner I'll put together next month, and I wish I'd just waited for the forge that will do what I need it to now, as opposed to 4 years ago. Same with my 12 ton; wish I'd waited and saved for a 25 ton.
why buy vevor if you could get devilforge stuff? or is devilforge not available in the US? same price (in germany over ebay) but far better quality and support.
Hey Walter this is great information since I am looking for a bigger forge but I do not think these are the ones I am looking for. On another note I would like to ask a question about pre-made tongs. Preferably left handed ones where is a good source get a couple different sets without paying $30-$50 per set I don’t mind paying for quality but don’t want to take out a loan to pay for them I don’t mind making my own but I would like to do my projects instead of making tongs at this time. I have gotten to a point that long handled pliers just aren’t good enough probably never was but I made do if I want to do better work I need better tools. I have been everywhere and Kens seems like a good option but I am the kind of person that taking things designed for right handed people to make them left…unfortunately my brain does not work like that at times. I am gonna need a pattern or someone do it for me. Any recommendations? Thanks
Hi Walter thanks for the video - Although I have a nice stout forge, have been unhappy with the "cheap" regulator that came with it as you mentioned the reasons - do you have a recommendation for a good regulator with gauge setup that you don't have to piece together?
i think forges are too expensive for the average smith. There is a lot to learn in how you shape and maintain your forge, but it's not THAT hard. We need someone out there to make a GOOD forge for about $600. I'd be all over it. I'd need a really, really good convincing of why a sheetmetal parts kit and some minimal length of kaowool is $2200, especially when you need to assemble and line it CORRECTLY yourself anyway, I don't understand what you're even paying for.
In todays inflated economy ? Good luck making profits after taxes and paying employees.That can only be done i great capitalist-communist china where all the materials are produced ,labor is super cheap and you got government post which ships parts to the end of universe for 5$.There is no way anyone will make it that cheap in usa -the costs of materials and labor are 600$. Try building it yourself -Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter book explains everything.I built a burner by his book and its a beast-a dragon after night of curry spiced burrito eating contest winner.
@@zumbazumba1 Not really, there's been cheap forges and expensive forges since before FiF was even a thing. 6 years ago the economy was amazing, they were just as expensive then too. I get it. If you have a shop and you are ready to expand into professional equipment that YOU don't want to build yourself, 1-2 high end forges might make sense because time is money, i get it. If you're starting as a smith and don't have a forge yet, find a tutorial, and put one together for $150-250. I like the torch build from The King of Random.
Wow the burner air intake is amazingly bad -round holes on venturi burners? Are they serious?What you want for smooth air intake is rectangular slots with sides beveled under 45° and rounded edges.I bet even frosty's T burner outperforms it. Both of the forges are super badly designed -if you want to make a real deal check the book Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter .He goes in detail how to make efficient burner and the forge.I build 1" burner by his book(i simplified it a bit since i couldnt find the right fittings but dimensions are true by the book) and its a absolute beast that heats things even on a wind. Might be more expensive but you get what you pay and you can always remake everything.
carbon dioxide is produced it has 2/di oxygen (or the gas put off the first time it burns) but without a well ventilated area, the carbon dioxide burns a second time making carbon monoxide 1/mono oxygen. Indoor forge can be dangerous.
i purchased one of those square ones and it was dodje shit and so sketchy then i went "nah fuck that im saving and buying a real forge" so I saved up £1700 and got a swan two door competitor with a flame trimmer. worth every penny.
The F you mean budget forges? I paid $550 CAD for my 3 burner devil forge and there is nothing "Budget" about it. I saw a previous video with a $70 forge.. NOW THAT is budget! Edit: Oh nvm those are both Vevor lol
i somewhat hate to do it, but nobody is exempt from a personal preference. If a video is created just to harvest redirect token revenue, then the video is just made to sell things and not to inform and the maker goes to the "do not suggest videos from this channel list".
These forges are the textbook case of what not to do ,its made shiny and pretty but functionally useless and inefficient .its what happens when designers are doing engineers job.
@@Grauenwolf Burner air intake is made wrong,burners are set at 90°which will damage the valves when heat from forge rises up,hoses will get damaged too. There is no swirl of flame like i circle shape forge so its less heat efficient. Thickness of wool is borderline usefull-a bare minimum and the amount of refractory they give you is a joke. So yea i am ignorant and arrogant. . .and you are worse of them all -the clueless !
Both forges are complete garbage. Make your own. Respect yourself in the morning. Forced induction burners are the only way to go. I do not rely on atmospheric pressure to run my burners, I have a blower. You dont need the fire brick as castable refractory is resistant to flux. I run my burners at 4 psi to forge and 8 psi to forge weld at 2200F. SS emits hexavalent chromium when heated. Galvanized fittings are also a no no since they can cause zinc poisoning when heated. Hint, cheap is crap. This vid is full on nonsense and offers nothing to the industry. Forge On!!
You have inspired literally thousands with all of your videos. Thanks Walter, truly.
5:58 holy shit dude u just solved exactly what was happening to me. id see the flame go up into the burner and freak out & shut it off for the day. thank u so much
Hi Walter I have the two burner vevor forge here in Australia and while I intend on upgrading at some stage the vevor forge is a little beauty to start out on and to get a basic understanding of forging and smithing and it's a good place to start at a reasonable price, having used the forge for awhile I've decided knife making and blacksmithing is a hobby I'd like to continue persuing so I've invested in a decent 2"x72" Nordic edge grinder here in Australia and will be upgrading and making a forge capable of decent size billets for damascus. Thanks for your TH-cam posts, they have been very informative and interesting and they are a pleasure to watch. Thanks again and best wishes from Australia.👍✌️
I am using the triangularforge for over 1 year but i am using the one burnerforge with a thinner firebrick and it heats up fast and works great also for damascus steel. I think its not so bad for this price and it saves gas because of fast heating the chamber if using firebricks bevore and back. Its not my first forge but one of the best.
The points on the regulator and making a steel elbow for the hose were great pieces of advice. Came here to figure out what 2 or 3 burner forge I should get off amazon, but I learned way more. Thanks alot!
first time viewer, great content and appreciate the side notes
I bought a 2 burner gas forge and have made a lot of money making mountian man knives and meat hooks and things like that for people. They really do work and even as crude as mine is I can get forge welding tempratures using just one burner. I plan to go to a coal forge eventually though.
What advantage do you see in coal?
@@ryw00d Dont have to mess with the wool and keeping it sprayed down and coated so i dont get it in my lungs. Also i rather not use propane as where I live I can pretty much get coal for free on my own poperty.
I've recently taken to lining the floors of my forges with 16ga inconel - it's flux proof and doesn't add significant thermal mass.
I have a relatively cheap 2 burner forge that actually is kinda oval shaped, I haven't had to use the second burner yet. It works well for my use, and has the length for edge cases such as swords when I get to that point.
Same here excpet I have used the second one when normalizing/annealing slightly bigger knives and on a couple damascus attempts, just to get the overall heat up as much as possible. (one successful one not). I don't use it very often.
Did you happen to get the Hell's Forge model? Mine is oval shaped with two burners as well and I was wondering if anyone else was having trouble reaching welding temperatures like I am. It doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the chokes, even with the gas at full pressure I just can't get hot enough to stick a forge weld with my model.
@@brianlawson3757 I got a Cast Master that looks just like the Hell's forge. I tried 5 layer damascus first and had full success but since then I tried a 9 layer and failed. I also messed up and realized I had plans so I had to stop maybe 5 heat cycles in and continue the next day. I don't think that helped. If I brick off the back end and crank both burners I think i saw maybe 2390ish in the sweet spot. It seems to get there but it is also cranked up.
@@brianlawson3757 I got a DFSW2 from devils forge. I haven't bothered with trying to weld with it yet, so I don't know if it can reach a welding heat. I have accidentally melted a copper bar in it once. The Hells Forge brand equipment is more expensive and at least in images it looks like it is probably higher quality than what I have.
Thanks for the reply, y'all. I'm really scratching my head as no matter how I configure my forge, I just can't get to that magic temperature, and it's been frustrating me for a while now. I can forge and heat treat just fine out of it, but I can't weld a tomahawk or make pattern welded steel. It seems like there's too wide a gap between the two burners as I get a cool patch between them . I can see it in the firebrick laid out for the floor.
Have a Simond Store Amazon forge with two burners and I had to get my own refractory cement because it only came with a tiny bit of an unknown brand. Works just fine.
EBAY or OZWERK is great options for gas forge and they get up to forge welding heats 😊👍 I upgraded from a coal forge to a gas forge 😊
What's Ozwerk? Couldn't find it using search.
Plistex is a great liner to help mitigate Flux eating your refractory after it dries and is fired it turns into a ceramic that is very Flux and heat resistant
Ive only made 3 knives, but what ive been doing is digging a hole, putting a steel pipe in it, duct taping the other end to a hair dryer and starting a fire in the pit. It gets hot enough to melt the end of the steel pipe but i have no idea how hot it actually is and theres no way to control the temperature but it will get you started
Huge fan of your content sir 👏 🙌 👌 👍
I made my own forge by just stacking up firebrick and buying a $125 burner and it does everything I need it to.
Me too; I built my burners from scrap though and while they do work they don't have adjustable carbs and I have to have a fan on them so they don't sputter. I'd like to do a ribbon burner but they're a little out of my fabrication ability.
Instructional video please 😊
Wtf kind of burner costs 125
Lol I was looking into buying a pre built forge but your comment reminded my dumbass that I'm a bricklayer, and I could probably build one for 50 bucks
Steel that's forged in a more expensive forge, has more chi. But if you're wearing shoes and have no beard, you lose all of the advantage anyways. But hand-blown charcoal forges are the best. as long as you bow to them every morning.
But it all becomes moot if you expose your blade to moonlight, or forget to point it North when you anneal, normalize or quench. Or have Western music playing while you work.
Should I be quenching in water, oil or the blood of some mystical creature? 😁
@@MorbidEel unicorn piss is the best quencher ,i thought everyone knew that?
What kind of chi meter do you use? I got a cheap one on the internet and it measures wa, not chi.
I haven't been be barefoot! That's what I've been doing wrong in my shop.
I knew I should've bought into that Unicorn ranch...
Your videos are a great resource for any beginner knife maker like myself. I mainly do stock removal but was considering picking up one of these in the 2 burner version mainly just for heat treating until i can afford an oven. would be a decent upgrade from the makeshift fire brick forge i use now
Good man but I'd get a good hi-temp oven as soon as you can. So you're not limited to (crappy) simple carbon steels. Though you can get a setup for your gas forge like I got for knowing and regulating the temperature so you can work with some high alloy ( stainless )steels but still way better with an oven and the rest.
Thank You Walter
I picked up a one burner Vevor for under $100. I am new to the hobby, will only be doing material removal projects for some time, and just wanted something that I can have consistent heat treatment with. When I do start actually forging knives, I can upgrade as needed. But, would rather save the money for a 2x72.
The square one can also come with 2 doors, that should lower the gas consumption.
I have one of the square forges. I lined it with 65% zirconia Mineral Wash. Then I took soft firebricks and cut 1" x 2" notches in them and put one in the middle of the forge and one in the front to contain the heat . It reaches maybe 2000 degrees on 10 psi. I do not like the rubber gas hoses! Had a fireball out of middle burner when i lit front burner, and middle/back burners were not on! other problem is that it burns back into the overly large burner tube if you try to run it a 5 psi. I am planning to turn t on its side and see if i can run it at 1500 for heat treating.
1 year later, Vevor does NOT include the refractory cement for their "panda shaped" forges any more, nor the paint brush to apply it. You can still buy it separate, which of course is an added cost, but you can also find this same forge on a decent sale under $150 (i got mine for $120 on memorial day), its normal price is now about $190.
I notice that the burners are oriented to the centre of the forge cavity. Do you have any thoughts on this design VS. orienting them to run the flame along the surface of the forge wall to wrap around the cavity?
I was bought that square forge. And it had a major problem. The metal around the middle burner got up to 600 degrees and started warping.
Just looking at the website I feel like the octagonal one may be the best of both. It has the burner rail of the triangle and a bit more room like the square version. If I cant get the induction setup I have a bit kore dialed in that way be how I go.
Well if you buy a 2 burner version for 115$ its a decent price for a shell.Then throw the burners into trash where they belong and build one according to book Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter.Tilt the burner inlet at 85° and you will have decent forge. 3/4" burner should work fine ,it doesnt say how large entrance is .just make sure to read trough all the book since its written a bit wierd -chapters are bound together.
Regulator and hose will be extra expense but you can make a decent forge out of this chinese trash . Would it be better to make your own -depends on the prices of materials and equipment you have . Definetlly check the book ,its best one on the subject of burner making and forges/furnaces.
You can use cat litter for the floor of you're forge instead of fire brick.
Thanks for the review.
Great review thanks
I've got a 2 burner like the triangle one and it's pretty good. I would have liked some rigidizer for the wool as it would have made it easier to apply the cement.
Those burners are super bad ,they couldnt make worse air intake for venturi burner.Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter (2004) -book that shows you how to make your own burner and forges/furnaces that actually works amazingly well.
What are your thoughts on the potential of running an electric induction heater for a forge?
I was wondering if this would be a better option, could you just shut the one burner off for smaller use to save gas consumption, and also have that extra burner for longer material as well I want to get a 3 burner just wondering if it's possible to keep one burner off
Great review !
how do you consider these cheap?
OK, for the money they are probably OK to start with, but as with much of the equipment I bought when I was starting out I wish I'd waited and purchased stuff that was more than I needed when I was starting out. I have a two burner I'm replacing with a ribbon burner I'll put together next month, and I wish I'd just waited for the forge that will do what I need it to now, as opposed to 4 years ago. Same with my 12 ton; wish I'd waited and saved for a 25 ton.
First like and first comment my friend. ❤ Your work immensely
Would Hercules High Heat Furnace Cement work to cover the Kaowool for a single burner forge?
why buy vevor if you could get devilforge stuff? or is devilforge not available in the US? same price (in germany over ebay) but far better quality and support.
So sad that Mr volcano is no longer making forges
Hey Walter this is great information since I am looking for a bigger forge but I do not think these are the ones I am looking for. On another note I would like to ask a question about pre-made tongs. Preferably left handed ones where is a good source get a couple different sets without paying $30-$50 per set I don’t mind paying for quality but don’t want to take out a loan to pay for them I don’t mind making my own but I would like to do my projects instead of making tongs at this time. I have gotten to a point that long handled pliers just aren’t good enough probably never was but I made do if I want to do better work I need better tools. I have been everywhere and Kens seems like a good option but I am the kind of person that taking things designed for right handed people to make them left…unfortunately my brain does not work like that at times. I am gonna need a pattern or someone do it for me. Any recommendations? Thanks
I'd take the square one and mod it.
Very good video.
Hi Walter thanks for the video - Although I have a nice stout forge, have been unhappy with the "cheap" regulator that came with it as you mentioned the reasons - do you have a recommendation for a good regulator with gauge setup that you don't have to piece together?
Very cool demo :)
i think forges are too expensive for the average smith. There is a lot to learn in how you shape and maintain your forge, but it's not THAT hard. We need someone out there to make a GOOD forge for about $600. I'd be all over it. I'd need a really, really good convincing of why a sheetmetal parts kit and some minimal length of kaowool is $2200, especially when you need to assemble and line it CORRECTLY yourself anyway, I don't understand what you're even paying for.
In todays inflated economy ? Good luck making profits after taxes and paying employees.That can only be done i great capitalist-communist china where all the materials are produced ,labor is super cheap and you got government post which ships parts to the end of universe for 5$.There is no way anyone will make it that cheap in usa -the costs of materials and labor are 600$.
Try building it yourself -Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter book explains everything.I built a burner by his book and its a beast-a dragon after night of curry spiced burrito eating contest winner.
@@zumbazumba1 Not really, there's been cheap forges and expensive forges since before FiF was even a thing. 6 years ago the economy was amazing, they were just as expensive then too. I get it. If you have a shop and you are ready to expand into professional equipment that YOU don't want to build yourself, 1-2 high end forges might make sense because time is money, i get it. If you're starting as a smith and don't have a forge yet, find a tutorial, and put one together for $150-250. I like the torch build from The King of Random.
Wow the burner air intake is amazingly bad -round holes on venturi burners? Are they serious?What you want for smooth air intake is rectangular slots with sides beveled under 45° and rounded edges.I bet even frosty's T burner outperforms it.
Both of the forges are super badly designed -if you want to make a real deal check the book Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces and Kilns - M. Porter .He goes in detail how to make efficient burner and the forge.I build 1" burner by his book(i simplified it a bit since i couldnt find the right fittings but dimensions are true by the book) and its a absolute beast that heats things even on a wind.
Might be more expensive but you get what you pay and you can always remake everything.
Do propane forges generate carbon monoxide?
carbon dioxide is produced it has 2/di oxygen (or the gas put off the first time it burns) but without a well ventilated area, the carbon dioxide burns a second time making carbon monoxide 1/mono oxygen. Indoor forge can be dangerous.
I’ll build my own
i purchased one of those square ones and it was dodje shit and so sketchy then i went "nah fuck that im saving and buying a real forge" so I saved up £1700 and got a swan two door competitor with a flame trimmer. worth every penny.
The F you mean budget forges? I paid $550 CAD for my 3 burner devil forge and there is nothing "Budget" about it. I saw a previous video with a $70 forge.. NOW THAT is budget!
Edit: Oh nvm those are both Vevor lol
Do Mr volcano!
D love to pay you something on Patreon. If you know how to do that without a bank account, I'll do that surely
Your milkshake brings all the boys to the forge?
i somewhat hate to do it, but nobody is exempt from a personal preference. If a video is created just to harvest redirect token revenue, then the video is just made to sell things and not to inform and the maker goes to the "do not suggest videos from this channel list".
Cheap??? Heh heh😅.......
These forges are the textbook case of what not to do ,its made shiny and pretty but functionally useless and inefficient .its what happens when designers are doing engineers job.
@@Grauenwolf Burner air intake is made wrong,burners are set at 90°which will damage the valves when heat from forge rises up,hoses will get damaged too.
There is no swirl of flame like i circle shape forge so its less heat efficient.
Thickness of wool is borderline usefull-a bare minimum and the amount of refractory they give you is a joke.
So yea i am ignorant and arrogant. . .and you are worse of them all -the clueless !
You lost me at, Chinese budget equipment
Both forges are complete garbage. Make your own. Respect yourself in the morning. Forced induction burners are the only way to go. I do not rely on atmospheric pressure to run my burners, I have a blower. You dont need the fire brick as castable refractory is resistant to flux. I run my burners at 4 psi to forge and 8 psi to forge weld at 2200F. SS emits hexavalent chromium when heated. Galvanized fittings are also a no no since they can cause zinc poisoning when heated. Hint, cheap is crap.
This vid is full on nonsense and offers nothing to the industry.
Forge On!!
Why are more expensive forges better than this one?