I think the pink is the color easiest seen, followed by the yellow, and then orange/red. The point of the DSMB is to be seen so I bought pink. The XS Scuba quick release. It’s tall, has diver down written on it and reflective tape on the top.
Really nice explanation, Mark! I never really considered the stitching on both ides, but that makes sense. Agree with others that not just having one, but PRACTICING deploying your SMB is so important!
Awsome job mark. Dsmbs are a great piece of equipment. If you are going to deploy from under water you should practice. I have seem people become tangled in the line. Keep up the good work
I've got the Apeks dSMB. It just seems to tick all the boxes: 1.4m long, closed cell, stitched on both sides, comfortable silicone oral inflation valve, solas reflective tape, convenient pull tab on the bungee cord, with an additional bungee with two tabs to tie it to the Apeks reel, but which also can be used to clip a strobing flashlight on. I've got an orange and a yellow one.
I have a self sealing Hollis DSMB. I find if I am shallow and just sending it up for my safety stop, I use the LP whip on my pony to inflate it. If I am deep, I use my exhaust gas to inflate it, by holding the open end above the exhaust. I have yet to find a time where the gas escapes from my DSMB on the surface, out the bottom.
I have red and yellow DIR Zone DSMBs, closed, oral inflate, which work very well, except when it's really cold and I find I can't get a good lip seal round the inflator. I've now got an Apeks one with the mouthpiece and it works really well. I'd recommend it.
Humor me :). Lp or orally inflate your “fish dsmb” on the surface. I bet it will hold air. It looks like one of those hybrid with a closed bladder inside/beside the open cell. 5:21 You can see a horizontal fused seam. Lemme know!
Yeah, it will still inflate on the surface. The true opening is further up the dSMB, above that horizontal seam. But, the opening won't close properly unless the buoy is inflated fully. It will be hard to fully deflate a dSMB like this unless you mean to though
had a 1.8m, 1.5m and a 1.2m. the 1.2m now is my favorite. 1, faster and less air needed to inflate in water, 2, less bulky 3, less time to deflate and roll it. I prefere the semi closed bottom. but can't find any that are 1m long. if they make a 1m semi closed, I'll get the 1m. the 2 weights in the bottom are soft bentable leds. I took them out from one of my old SMB to save some weights of my luggage. but when in the water, it need more tension on the line to keep it upwards. about the color, in some busy dive spots, some time I'll take a less common color so that is easier for our captain to spot me and follow.
It's not just the length, it's the internal volume. A 1.4m x 12cm dSMB has less internal volume than a 1.2m x 14cm dSMB, stands taller, and is more compact when rolled up. When selecting a dSMB it's better to go for narrow and long, than short and wide. A wide or large volume dSMB is harder to keep upright because you need to displace more water to stand it up, and a narrow dSMB bounces around more, making it easier to spot from the boat.
The Apeks one is extortionately expensive and the orange colour turned to a pale pink after 6 months use. Granted it did over 300 dives in that time, but the cheaper ones have never disintegrated that quickly. Their customer service is very robotic also.
There are quality and feature differences, but a sausage is a sausage. You don't need an expensive dSMB, but you get more when you spend more. - dSMB's stitched on both sides will last a lot longer than ones stitched on one side. - A metal inflation valve can be really uncomfortable in cold water. - A long dSMB will stand out more. - A narrow dSMB will move more, drawing more attention. - A large dSMB is harder to keep upright. - An open bottom dSMB can deflate at the surface, defeating its purpose. - A reflective section will help with light and radar detection. - Attachment points at the top will allow you to attach messages or lights. - If you're diving rebreathers, you don't want a dSMB you can only inflate orally. Taking the mouthpiece out of your mouth can flood your loop, taking your CCR unit out of the running.
#askmark Hi Mark I just could say the very same, you do a great job. To get the chance to ask you is amazing, I really appreciate it. I got a question about a brand, I'm normally not a huge fan account cheap brands, sure Cressi is cheap but quality isn't cheap made. But except them I would choose the middle, where you get something nice for a fair price. Here is my question, because I'm bit sceptical, what do you think about the brand subea? Their semidry cost CHF 320, almost 50% of others, I guess you understand why I ask about their products. Thank you so much Mark Ben
I know of Subea from Decathalon but, I've never used them. I'd want to touch and feel a wetsuit from an unknown brand. Double check their returns policy if there are no stores near you. From what I can see on the website it seems perfectly fine and they can afford to have such low prices because Decathalon is their own distribution network
@@ScubaDiverMagazine I just thought to check it, because it would be a neoprene I want to use here in Switzerland, where I do mostly just lake dive and lake Zurich has a few sand (tiny stones, not like those in the sea) and stones so a neoprene would be in a quide rude area, so I thought about something dureable or cheaper category.
@@benheckendorn2696 As with everything, there is a curve to price and quality, and beyond a certain point there are diminishing returns. The difference between cheap and mid-range can be substantial, whereas the difference between mid-range and top-tier can be minimal. Generally speaking I would stay away from the lower priced items when it comes to life support equipment. If you're on a budget, you can cut cost on wear items, like wetsuits, but there will always be trade-offs. A cheap wetsuit may not provide the thermal protection of a more expensive wetsuit, so you may need to get a 5mm instead of a 3mm, or a 7mm instead of a 5mm. They may also wear out faster. So you may be paying 2.5 times for a better wetsuit with better thermal protection that lasts twice as long, or select the cheaper option but need to get a thicker wetsuit, and will need to replace it after a year or so. If the cheaper option means you can dive more, do it.
#AskMark Hi Mark, you are really the best. How much air should I put in the SMB to ensure it will be full at the surface and stand up? Is it correct to fully inflate it and deploy it, allowing the extra gas to be released by the deflator valve?
Aw thank you! It really depends on your depth but, as much as possible. 5m / 15ft is where most divers send up a dSMB. The volume of the gas inside will expand by about a third from that depth so you want to fill the dSMB *about 2/3* for it to be full on the surface. The deeper you are the less you need to fill. Most dSMBs have overpressure valves anyway and any excess expansion will be vented on ascent so don't worry about putting too much in. To avoid buoyancy changes divers will often put a single breath in before letting go and topping it up on the surface if they need to. Just bear in mind that when it's on the surface some of the length will be pulled under the surface to make the buoy stand up so I like to fill it up as much as I possibly can before letting go.
The Halcyon DSMBs dont require you to push the inflation valve with your teeth to orally inflate (they have a one way valve inside) - this is far more comfortable! Another bonus is that if you also have a Halcyon bladder, the OPV on the DSMB is the same as the bladder, so it can serve as a replacement part in case you need one.
The Subgravity deluxe DSMB has a similar inflation valve. It doesn't pack up quite as cleanly as the Halcyon model, but it does come with SOLAS tape (which the smaller Halcyon DSMBs don't have for some reason) as well as a loop you can fit a glow stick or similarly-shaped tank light to.
1.4 meters or about 5 ft is probably the most common. You can go shorter if you're diving in calm water, or taller if you're diving in rough seas. The wider the dSMB or the larger the internal volume, the harder it is to inflate and keep upright. If you're deploying it from depth, you don't need to put that much gas in it. At 10m you can inflate it by half, and it will be fully inflated at the surface. At 30m, you only need to fill it by a quarter. If you're deploying from your safety stop, you'll pretty much need to fully inflate the dSMB.
I don't know of any dSMB that's sold with a finger spool. They're usually separate purchases. Most dSMB's roll up into a nice little package, and a finger spool usually isn't that bulky either. If you don't want to clip them off of a D-ring, you could probably rig up a few bungees to tuck them under. Just make sure you can reach it without having to take off your BCD. I personally loop the line through a hole in the spool, clip it to a double-ended bolt snap, loop the line around the trigger and back through the gate. I then thread the bolt snap through the dSMB's D-ring, and clip it off through the same gate where the spool is attached. This keeps the gate from accidentally opening, and even if it does, both the spool and the dSMB are still secured. You can clip it off to a hip D-ring, a butt D-ring, or even off a shoulder D-ring, and it won't dangle that much. Or you could put it in a pocket or pouch if you have one that will fit.
OMS used to make a dSMB kit like that. I'm not sure if they still make it... It was a small mesh pouch with a dSMB and a spool inside that you could clip to a D-Ring. Mares also make a dSMB/Spool combo that they called the All In One dSMB which had a mesh pouch built into the dSMB for the spool. That's probably the simplest option. If you want it in a pouch the Ninja Pouch from Scubapro is made for the Hydros Pro, They also make thigh pockets that clip to a D-Ring or just look for a butt pouch where you can keep a buoy and spool inside.
15m is perfect for deploying from the safety stop. That's usually plenty of time for the RHIB or the boat to come pick you up. It's also nice and compact. When buying a cheap 30m spool, keep in mind that it will be over spun, so you'll have to remove 10~15m of line to gain access to the holes in the side, so that'll be a 15m spool when you're done preparing it. If you get a premium spool, like the ones from Apeks, they're ready to use out of the package and have all kinds of nice features. If you're going for an Apeks 30m spool, you may want to consider the Halo version. That's a great spool for use in cold water with thick gloves. It is more expensive than the green 30m spool though.
You want about 1.5x your deployment depth to be you're length of line on your spool/reel. 30m deployment = 45m of line etc. 10m deployment = 15m of line. Personally, I use longer lines for uk diving as I may be deploying from the wreck. If you're only diving abroad and deploying shallow, 15m is fine (although I'd still want more). Personally, I wouldn't get a apeks spool (as someone that has one), as they are very expensive and there is knock off versions online that are the same (up to 45m of line).
Unfortunately not... I did the sums on one of my dSMBs: The dSMB weighs 160g and has an internal volume of 2.5L. The volume of He required to lift 160g is around 150L It would be cool but, I don't think it's going to work
Hey Mark! Thank you for your continued content creation of all things scuba! Really appreciate all the insight and tips you've shared across the years. I would like to ask your opinion on cutting tools for travelling divers. If checked in luggage is not an option, are there any cutting tools we divers can bring up the plane with us? Belt cutters/safety cutters? Metal blades/ceramic blades? Looking forward to it. Thanks! #ASKMARK
If airport security find any sort of cutting device in your carry on they'll take it from you. If you need to travel light you need to buy a cheap knife at your destination. There are even some cases where security have confiscated larger dive knives from checked luggage...
You could try an EezyCut Trilobite, but there's no guarantee they'll let you keep it. It's relatively cheap, so if they do confiscate it, you're not out a huge amount of money. Generally speaking, anything with a stabby point or a blade is not allowed in an airplane cabin. That includes screwdrivers, ice picks, razors, broadswords, and chainsaws. Oh, and dive knives.
#Askmark . Enjoying the #askmark content. Some very helpful tips and some questions that some divers might find stupid to ask there dive buddies. So thanks for the videos . So here’s my question dive pony’s or alternatively air as a recreational driver do i or we as divers need to have one ? If so what’s the pros and cons . Thanks Mark ps how many dive masks do you need ( background) 😂scubavery
The benefits of an extra cylinder is redundancy. Should something go wrong with your regulator or your buddy's regulator then you have a completley independent source of air that you can resort to. You can also use a separate cylinder for controlling your buoyancy so you're not wasting expensive breathing gases like Nitrox or Trimix on filling your BCD, Drysuit or SMB. The downsides are the costs and how the weight can affect your trim. You have the cost of buying the extra cylinder, another regulator and mounting system as well as the maintenance costs of both. And depending on the size and type of cylinder and how you mount it, that can affect your trim so you need to compensate with your weighting. Ideally, every diver would have their own pony _just in case_ . But the design and quality of modern dive equipment is good and reliable. I wouldn't worry too much about investing in one unless you're diving in cold waters or you worry about how far your buddy's octo is.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine Thanks mark some good points . Food for thought. I dive in Scotland and been offered a pony . Going to try them out this weekend see how I get on . Thanks for quick reply it’s much appreciated. Might have to get myself some twins 👯♀️ 😂
@@scubavery If the choice is between a pony and a twinset, always go for the twinset. A pony is an okay solution in case your first stage or cylinder fails, but it's limited in size and you have to drain it down and refill it from time to time so the air doesn't get stale. I also only provides gas to a single (third) regulator. It provides no redundancy beyond breathing gas. With twins you don't need to purchase a third second stage, it provides more breathing gas for your dive, and more breathing gas after you've isolated your valves. You can also have redundant buoyancy control and redundant pressure monitoring. You can get redundant bladder wings which you can feed from different first stages, or if you're diving a drysuit, separate the drysuit inflator hose and BCD inflator hose over two first stages. If you're using an AI dive computer, you can attach the transmitter to the right first stage, and an SPG on the left.
@@bloodymarvelous4790 I Thanks you also made some good points. But To be honest I went with the pony dived with it twice . On land with 15lt steel cylinder it’s heavy but once in the water no issues. Almost bought twins but the pony was the cheaper option at the time . But for me it was a just incase of any issues like can’t find my dive buddy if there are not close by as has happened many times especially in low vis dives it’s just that reassurance that you have with having alternative air source in case of any issues . 👍
@mikedavies4694 That may have been your instructor, but it is not a part of the Padi curriculum for OW. Like I said, it is a Padi specialty course though. Both of my kids just got certified, my son two months ago and my daughter last month, and it was never required for them to deploy an SMB. It wasn't required for my OW or my AOW. Just to be assured, I also looked it up, and it's not a part of the skills requirement for OW.
We use Orange because it's the color that sits directly opposite to blue (Ocean) on the color wheel.. so higher contrast...
Your definition of "red" is not my definition of 'red'
I think the pink is the color easiest seen, followed by the yellow, and then orange/red. The point of the DSMB is to be seen so I bought pink. The XS Scuba quick release. It’s tall, has diver down written on it and reflective tape on the top.
Really nice explanation, Mark! I never really considered the stitching on both ides, but that makes sense. Agree with others that not just having one, but PRACTICING deploying your SMB is so important!
Awsome job mark. Dsmbs are a great piece of equipment. If you are going to deploy from under water you should practice. I have seem people become tangled in the line. Keep up the good work
Just the video I needed! Thanks, Mark! 😁
It might be a novelty item, but I love my pink, fluorescent dolphin 😊
I've got the Apeks dSMB. It just seems to tick all the boxes: 1.4m long, closed cell, stitched on both sides, comfortable silicone oral inflation valve, solas reflective tape, convenient pull tab on the bungee cord, with an additional bungee with two tabs to tie it to the Apeks reel, but which also can be used to clip a strobing flashlight on.
I've got an orange and a yellow one.
How wide is it? The one I have is quite wide, making it hard to inflate fully orally.
@@ndepal About 12 cm / 4.7 inches.
It can be inflated with one lungful.
@@bloodymarvelous4790 thanks for the reply!
I have a self sealing Hollis DSMB. I find if I am shallow and just sending it up for my safety stop, I use the LP whip on my pony to inflate it. If I am deep, I use my exhaust gas to inflate it, by holding the open end above the exhaust. I have yet to find a time where the gas escapes from my DSMB on the surface, out the bottom.
I have red and yellow DIR Zone DSMBs, closed, oral inflate, which work very well, except when it's really cold and I find I can't get a good lip seal round the inflator. I've now got an Apeks one with the mouthpiece and it works really well. I'd recommend it.
Humor me :). Lp or orally inflate your “fish dsmb” on the surface. I bet it will hold air. It looks like one of those hybrid with a closed bladder inside/beside the open cell. 5:21 You can see a horizontal fused seam. Lemme know!
Yeah, it will still inflate on the surface. The true opening is further up the dSMB, above that horizontal seam.
But, the opening won't close properly unless the buoy is inflated fully. It will be hard to fully deflate a dSMB like this unless you mean to though
The color is International Orange.
had a 1.8m, 1.5m and a 1.2m. the 1.2m now is my favorite. 1, faster and less air needed to inflate in water, 2, less bulky 3, less time to deflate and roll it.
I prefere the semi closed bottom. but can't find any that are 1m long. if they make a 1m semi closed, I'll get the 1m.
the 2 weights in the bottom are soft bentable leds. I took them out from one of my old SMB to save some weights of my luggage. but when in the water, it need more tension on the line to keep it upwards.
about the color, in some busy dive spots, some time I'll take a less common color so that is easier for our captain to spot me and follow.
It's not just the length, it's the internal volume. A 1.4m x 12cm dSMB has less internal volume than a 1.2m x 14cm dSMB, stands taller, and is more compact when rolled up.
When selecting a dSMB it's better to go for narrow and long, than short and wide.
A wide or large volume dSMB is harder to keep upright because you need to displace more water to stand it up, and a narrow dSMB bounces around more, making it easier to spot from the boat.
The Apeks one is extortionately expensive and the orange colour turned to a pale pink after 6 months use. Granted it did over 300 dives in that time, but the cheaper ones have never disintegrated that quickly. Their customer service is very robotic also.
Is this a piece of kit you can go cheap with or should you stick to brand names?
Thank you Mark and team!
Most dSMBs are on par no matter the brand. Some of the parts of big brand dSMBs may be a higher grade but, a cheap dSMB will still do the job.
There are quality and feature differences, but a sausage is a sausage.
You don't need an expensive dSMB, but you get more when you spend more.
- dSMB's stitched on both sides will last a lot longer than ones stitched on one side.
- A metal inflation valve can be really uncomfortable in cold water.
- A long dSMB will stand out more.
- A narrow dSMB will move more, drawing more attention.
- A large dSMB is harder to keep upright.
- An open bottom dSMB can deflate at the surface, defeating its purpose.
- A reflective section will help with light and radar detection.
- Attachment points at the top will allow you to attach messages or lights.
- If you're diving rebreathers, you don't want a dSMB you can only inflate orally. Taking the mouthpiece out of your mouth can flood your loop, taking your CCR unit out of the running.
#askmark
Hi Mark
I just could say the very same, you do a great job. To get the chance to ask you is amazing, I really appreciate it.
I got a question about a brand, I'm normally not a huge fan account cheap brands, sure Cressi is cheap but quality isn't cheap made.
But except them I would choose the middle, where you get something nice for a fair price.
Here is my question, because I'm bit sceptical, what do you think about the brand subea?
Their semidry cost CHF 320, almost 50% of others, I guess you understand why I ask about their products.
Thank you so much Mark
Ben
I know of Subea from Decathalon but, I've never used them.
I'd want to touch and feel a wetsuit from an unknown brand. Double check their returns policy if there are no stores near you.
From what I can see on the website it seems perfectly fine and they can afford to have such low prices because Decathalon is their own distribution network
@@ScubaDiverMagazine I just thought to check it, because it would be a neoprene I want to use here in Switzerland, where I do mostly just lake dive and lake Zurich has a few sand (tiny stones, not like those in the sea) and stones so a neoprene would be in a quide rude area, so I thought about something dureable or cheaper category.
@@benheckendorn2696 As with everything, there is a curve to price and quality, and beyond a certain point there are diminishing returns.
The difference between cheap and mid-range can be substantial, whereas the difference between mid-range and top-tier can be minimal.
Generally speaking I would stay away from the lower priced items when it comes to life support equipment. If you're on a budget, you can cut cost on wear items, like wetsuits, but there will always be trade-offs. A cheap wetsuit may not provide the thermal protection of a more expensive wetsuit, so you may need to get a 5mm instead of a 3mm, or a 7mm instead of a 5mm. They may also wear out faster.
So you may be paying 2.5 times for a better wetsuit with better thermal protection that lasts twice as long, or select the cheaper option but need to get a thicker wetsuit, and will need to replace it after a year or so. If the cheaper option means you can dive more, do it.
#AskMark
Hi Mark, you are really the best.
How much air should I put in the SMB to ensure it will be full at the surface and stand up?
Is it correct to fully inflate it and deploy it, allowing the extra gas to be released by the deflator valve?
Aw thank you!
It really depends on your depth but, as much as possible. 5m / 15ft is where most divers send up a dSMB. The volume of the gas inside will expand by about a third from that depth so you want to fill the dSMB *about 2/3* for it to be full on the surface. The deeper you are the less you need to fill. Most dSMBs have overpressure valves anyway and any excess expansion will be vented on ascent so don't worry about putting too much in.
To avoid buoyancy changes divers will often put a single breath in before letting go and topping it up on the surface if they need to. Just bear in mind that when it's on the surface some of the length will be pulled under the surface to make the buoy stand up so I like to fill it up as much as I possibly can before letting go.
The Halcyon DSMBs dont require you to push the inflation valve with your teeth to orally inflate (they have a one way valve inside) - this is far more comfortable!
Another bonus is that if you also have a Halcyon bladder, the OPV on the DSMB is the same as the bladder, so it can serve as a replacement part in case you need one.
Have you actually swapped valves? I have both, and the DSMB circa 2020 has coarser threading than that of the wing dump valve.
@@toadou8127 Not personally, but I know someone who did
The Subgravity deluxe DSMB has a similar inflation valve. It doesn't pack up quite as cleanly as the Halcyon model, but it does come with SOLAS tape (which the smaller Halcyon DSMBs don't have for some reason) as well as a loop you can fit a glow stick or similarly-shaped tank light to.
What length?
1.4 meters or about 5 ft is probably the most common.
You can go shorter if you're diving in calm water, or taller if you're diving in rough seas.
The wider the dSMB or the larger the internal volume, the harder it is to inflate and keep upright.
If you're deploying it from depth, you don't need to put that much gas in it. At 10m you can inflate it by half, and it will be fully inflated at the surface. At 30m, you only need to fill it by a quarter. If you're deploying from your safety stop, you'll pretty much need to fully inflate the dSMB.
Recommendation for a dsmb with fingerspool in one little bag I can strap on my back (hydros pro)
I don't know of any dSMB that's sold with a finger spool. They're usually separate purchases.
Most dSMB's roll up into a nice little package, and a finger spool usually isn't that bulky either. If you don't want to clip them off of a D-ring, you could probably rig up a few bungees to tuck them under. Just make sure you can reach it without having to take off your BCD.
I personally loop the line through a hole in the spool, clip it to a double-ended bolt snap, loop the line around the trigger and back through the gate. I then thread the bolt snap through the dSMB's D-ring, and clip it off through the same gate where the spool is attached. This keeps the gate from accidentally opening, and even if it does, both the spool and the dSMB are still secured.
You can clip it off to a hip D-ring, a butt D-ring, or even off a shoulder D-ring, and it won't dangle that much. Or you could put it in a pocket or pouch if you have one that will fit.
OMS used to make a dSMB kit like that. I'm not sure if they still make it... It was a small mesh pouch with a dSMB and a spool inside that you could clip to a D-Ring.
Mares also make a dSMB/Spool combo that they called the All In One dSMB which had a mesh pouch built into the dSMB for the spool. That's probably the simplest option.
If you want it in a pouch the Ninja Pouch from Scubapro is made for the Hydros Pro, They also make thigh pockets that clip to a D-Ring or just look for a butt pouch where you can keep a buoy and spool inside.
Great vid! For typical recreational diving (liveaboard), is a 15 meter spool enough? Or might as well get a 30 m just in case?
15m is perfect for deploying from the safety stop. That's usually plenty of time for the RHIB or the boat to come pick you up. It's also nice and compact.
When buying a cheap 30m spool, keep in mind that it will be over spun, so you'll have to remove 10~15m of line to gain access to the holes in the side, so that'll be a 15m spool when you're done preparing it. If you get a premium spool, like the ones from Apeks, they're ready to use out of the package and have all kinds of nice features.
If you're going for an Apeks 30m spool, you may want to consider the Halo version. That's a great spool for use in cold water with thick gloves. It is more expensive than the green 30m spool though.
@@bloodymarvelous4790 Cheers, thank you for the breakdown!
You want about 1.5x your deployment depth to be you're length of line on your spool/reel.
30m deployment = 45m of line etc.
10m deployment = 15m of line.
Personally, I use longer lines for uk diving as I may be deploying from the wreck. If you're only diving abroad and deploying shallow, 15m is fine (although I'd still want more).
Personally, I wouldn't get a apeks spool (as someone that has one), as they are very expensive and there is knock off versions online that are the same (up to 45m of line).
@@jakeman1397 Thanks, this makes sense. I'm leaning towards just getting a knockoff spool - I see some for
If you filled a dsmb with helium, would it float above the waves? Any tech divers out their tried…
Unfortunately not... I did the sums on one of my dSMBs:
The dSMB weighs 160g and has an internal volume of 2.5L.
The volume of He required to lift 160g is around 150L
It would be cool but, I don't think it's going to work
Looks orange to me. 🤷♂️
Hey Mark! Thank you for your continued content creation of all things scuba! Really appreciate all the insight and tips you've shared across the years.
I would like to ask your opinion on cutting tools for travelling divers. If checked in luggage is not an option, are there any cutting tools we divers can bring up the plane with us? Belt cutters/safety cutters? Metal blades/ceramic blades?
Looking forward to it. Thanks!
#ASKMARK
If airport security find any sort of cutting device in your carry on they'll take it from you. If you need to travel light you need to buy a cheap knife at your destination.
There are even some cases where security have confiscated larger dive knives from checked luggage...
You could try an EezyCut Trilobite, but there's no guarantee they'll let you keep it.
It's relatively cheap, so if they do confiscate it, you're not out a huge amount of money.
Generally speaking, anything with a stabby point or a blade is not allowed in an airplane cabin. That includes screwdrivers, ice picks, razors, broadswords, and chainsaws. Oh, and dive knives.
#Askmark . Enjoying the #askmark content. Some very helpful tips and some questions that some divers might find stupid to ask there dive buddies. So thanks for the videos . So here’s my question dive pony’s or alternatively air as a recreational driver do i or we as divers need to have one ? If so what’s the pros and cons . Thanks Mark ps how many dive masks do you need ( background) 😂scubavery
The benefits of an extra cylinder is redundancy. Should something go wrong with your regulator or your buddy's regulator then you have a completley independent source of air that you can resort to.
You can also use a separate cylinder for controlling your buoyancy so you're not wasting expensive breathing gases like Nitrox or Trimix on filling your BCD, Drysuit or SMB.
The downsides are the costs and how the weight can affect your trim. You have the cost of buying the extra cylinder, another regulator and mounting system as well as the maintenance costs of both. And depending on the size and type of cylinder and how you mount it, that can affect your trim so you need to compensate with your weighting.
Ideally, every diver would have their own pony _just in case_ . But the design and quality of modern dive equipment is good and reliable. I wouldn't worry too much about investing in one unless you're diving in cold waters or you worry about how far your buddy's octo is.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine Thanks mark some good points . Food for thought. I dive in Scotland and been offered a pony . Going to try them out this weekend see how I get on . Thanks for quick reply it’s much appreciated. Might have to get myself some twins 👯♀️ 😂
@@scubavery If the choice is between a pony and a twinset, always go for the twinset. A pony is an okay solution in case your first stage or cylinder fails, but it's limited in size and you have to drain it down and refill it from time to time so the air doesn't get stale. I also only provides gas to a single (third) regulator. It provides no redundancy beyond breathing gas.
With twins you don't need to purchase a third second stage, it provides more breathing gas for your dive, and more breathing gas after you've isolated your valves. You can also have redundant buoyancy control and redundant pressure monitoring. You can get redundant bladder wings which you can feed from different first stages, or if you're diving a drysuit, separate the drysuit inflator hose and BCD inflator hose over two first stages. If you're using an AI dive computer, you can attach the transmitter to the right first stage, and an SPG on the left.
@@bloodymarvelous4790 I Thanks you also made some good points. But To be honest I went with the pony dived with it twice . On land with 15lt steel cylinder it’s heavy but once in the water no issues. Almost bought twins but the pony was the cheaper option at the time . But for me it was a just incase of any issues like can’t find my dive buddy if there are not close by as has happened many times especially in low vis dives it’s just that reassurance that you have with having alternative air source in case of any issues . 👍
This is a requirement in PADI
No, it's not. It's a specialty course that you can do through padi
@@tvelocidad I had to launch my DSMB in both my OW and AOW courses, both PADI. My SDI Solo instructor also wanted to see me launch my DSMB.
@mikedavies4694 That may have been your instructor, but it is not a part of the Padi curriculum for OW. Like I said, it is a Padi specialty course though. Both of my kids just got certified, my son two months ago and my daughter last month, and it was never required for them to deploy an SMB. It wasn't required for my OW or my AOW. Just to be assured, I also looked it up, and it's not a part of the skills requirement for OW.
@@tvelocidad I find a safety stop in crap vis, is so much easier when hanging on a DSMB line.
@tvelocidad I am a PADI Instructor and I teach it in Open Water