3D Print ANYWHERE
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2019
- I'm converting my Printrbot Play into a mobile 3D printer. No need for power or wifi - it's all built in!
The first 500 people to click the link will get 2 months of Skillshare for free skl.sh/tomsanladerer3
We're using Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi in WiFI Access Point Mode, six compatible Sony NP-F batteries and three DCDC converters to integrate charging support and to provide power to the printer and the Raspberry Pi.
Instructions for the Raspberry Pi access point (German) www.elektronik-kompendium.de/...
Parts used
100W Boost converter (battery voltage to 12V) go.toms3d.org/100WBoost/
5A CC-CV Buck converter (battery charger) go.toms3d.org/5ACCCV/
3A Buck converter (battery voltage to 5V) go.toms3d.org/3ABuck/
2.6mm banana plug go.toms3d.org/26banana
NP-F batteries go.toms3d.org/NPFbatteries/
Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
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> full disclosure: it was me that put this here
I'm glad we're moving from jpeg to png
See Tom printing in the park. See Tom printing at the grocery store. See Tom printing at the gym. There's no where Tom can't print!
I suspect he won't pull it off in the pool and in space...
@@baumkuchen6543 Hah!
Go Tom, Go!
@@baumkuchen6543 send one to the ISS!
...when printing's on a bagel you can be printing anytime! ... ah 90's pop culture lol
Our Prometheus Tom has brought us the great fire that is portable 3D printing
2020... RIP Printrbot. Lets hope you come back soon.
I haven't watched one of your videos for a while but I've definitely noticed your English (or maybe just your presentation skill) has improved massively - not the words, mainly the speed and fluency with which you say them, sounds natural! Whilst you explained this really well, there's no way I'm even attempting this, me and electronics/maths don't play nice
Practice makes perfect! And editing, maybe a bit of that as well ;-)
You might want to add some grommets where you ran the battery cables through the frame so the wires don't eventually rub through and short. Printed ones would do the job just fine.
So i get problem printing with cold temp' and they is you casually printing in the snow xD
I have the same issues but I didn't see any actual plastic being extruded.
@@timothyrios268 My spare bedroom used to be 12-14C in the dead of winter and i never had an issue printing in the cold even with ABS without an enclosure.. its all in the tweaking time spent ;)
@@MattWeber I am jealous, my garage gets to 2-4c and I cant print. The isulated enclosure I build has a marine vinyl window/door that transmitts enough cold that the print warps on that side, even pulling the Thinsulate I am using down between the vinyl and printer is not a guarentee for me.
Also I find your results encouraging.
@@timothyrios268 use an air tight, air gap, as the insulation.
Awesome little project!
“As long as it doesn’t short out anything ELSE it’s fiiiinee” Tom talking like a Chinese printer manufacturer.
Neat idea, cool that it works in that weather as well. The electrical implementation is a bit... problematic. Your (identical) batteries are in parallel, they balance themselves if you connect them (do make sure they have the same voltage before connecting them for the first time).The diodes will actually create an imbalance since their voltage drops are not very precise. The output diodes are not necessary either. If the batteries were in series you would need active balancing, like the batteries themselves have. Ditch all the diodes basically, for efficiency's sake as well. Gluing in the connectors also risks poor contact on the interface. The 8.4 volts you adjusted the dc-dc converter to is too low as well, since you have a diode drop on the input. Higher voltage batteries are more practical for higher power projects, higher current will generally result in higher losses. Also buck converters are usually more efficient and since you need 12V, a battery close to or higher than that voltage is more suitable. The DC-DC converters are a bit too close to their maximum ratings as well, the rated power/current are not always advisable for these Chinese modules. I hope this helps someone attempting to do something similar.
I use these batteries in other gear as well and can't make sure to balance them to each other every time I want to use the printer on the go. As explained in the video, I use the NP-F batteries mostly for convenience (and non-explosive looks) and did end up raising the charge voltage, but you can't blindly raise it without knowing the drop on the diode in the charged steady-state, as a diode with little current load will have a significantly lower drop than when loaded with the nominal current. Hence you'd overcharge the batteries, and I'm not sure how reliably the protection mechanisms in these packs work.
@@MadeWithLayers Using your existing batteries is difficult then, yes, normally you would never put *removable* batteries in parallel for all these reasons--> unless you make sure they are charged when you put them in for example. I just wanted to point out the problems and that other people should implement it differently. A rechargeable battery for these kinds of projects including a (balancing) charger in a single build is a project in and of itself.
Just add PTCs in series with each battery. If one is very high or low compared to the others, the PTC will limit the current.
Lol, Tom has done the cheapest and probably most reliable setup here. The Diodes will stop current going the wrong way and the small voltage drop is worth the advantage they bring to a tiny package. The batteries will regulate their voltage via the current themselves with the max input current being under the batteries max charge current so parallel charging won't be an issue. Sure you won't get an even battery charge rate until all batteries are roughly the same voltage (nor will it be fast) but you won't need to care about battery charge state (or health) when plugging them in. The variance in diode drops is in the 100th's of a volt so why would you even raise this as a issue, ok one battery will be 8.400V and another will be 8.399V but most balance chargers will never get this close anyways (you know balance charging is usually done using a fancy array of diodes and transistors??). We are talking a theoretical 5amps max here, I double the battery charging will ever reach this current, probs more like 3.5amps max with new & flat batteries as the voltage input will never be high enough to support the higher current. There also is very little efficiency to be gained going above the nominal 7V he is getting from these batteries when outputting 12.5V, you might gain 1% by going say to 30V battery but you are unlikely to get batteries as convenient at that voltage and will no doubt cost more for same total run time (like double the cost). The little "buck" converter he is using is a a very efficient switching bec, and there is nothing to be gained not using it although it is only rated for 3amps continuous, not that anything using the 5v will ever see that much current.
Lastly, the connectors are fine, they are a pretty snug fit to begin with so some glue on them as they are slid in will hold them nice and tight, there is a tone of connector going into the battery and twice as much holding it to the case, again we are talking a theoretical 5amps max per connector at a nominal 7V (Ok technically 8amps if the printer could pull max amps on 1 battery) making them 50 times as much contact as needed.
@@Redemptioner1 That's true, thanks for the info. I agree that this will all work, it just makes me a bit uncomfortable, since you would want batteries to have equal/proportional load and connectors can be a fire hazard if underestimated. But I was being a bit unfair, yes. I would still hesitate to use a diode for balancing though, I don't think diodes are used at such a variable current for capping the output voltage, right? Then again, the batteries have protection circuitry of course...
Clearly you are very passionate about this project and that's what makes it so great! The results are amazing and your excitement is infectious and inspiring. Thank you for sharing, Tom!
That is so great ! You have outdone yourself on this one Tom.Sad to know Printrbot is gone but the Playbot LIVES.
Fantastic and informative build. Would love to see this at MRRF 2019. A printed base ring with a slot for a removeable plexiglass panel would serve the purpose of preventing accidental contact, show off an elegant wiring job, and allow for quick viewing of LED indicators.
Omg I cant believe how perfectly you pulled this of! This is a work of art! Just slap on a clear cover to the bottom to be protected but still visible!
This is GREAT ! The project is very interesting and detailed, the cinematography and editing is top notch
Loving the whiteboard drawings. Can't wait to see the next project !
I converted my play to print 2 colors, super cool Tom!
Amazing video. Please make more like this. Your creativity is off the chart.
11/10! Excellent... really good discussion on all the components, and a great looking finish of the unit.
Technical Tom is back, YES!!! Great video, don't know how anyone could thumbs down this one.....
Oh the snow, you can ship as much of it as you want down to Australia, we are in the middle of a heat wave with temps as high as 42*C ......
Great videos tom, your knocking it out the park at the moment
Wow, did really pay attention to your channel in the last weeks to be honest but that project hooked me up again. Since im thinking to get back into 3D printing that is definitely very interesting and I cannot wait to watch the whole video. Great project Tom
Great video Tom, I saw the printer a few days ago on twitter and I was hooked to it. Finally a good use for my Sony MP-F995 batteries that I don't use for my camera's anymore. I don't have the same printer but I will try it on one of the other small printers I have here, like the Fabrikator II (without the heated bed). Great project. Thanks so much for sharing.
I nominate this for the coolest 3d printer video of 2019. Good job!
Awesome as usual sir! Print On!
The best power outage failsafe ever! Nice project
Hey :) Whiteboard-thing was super nice for visualization. But maybe nexttime, when a "DCDCCCCV" suddenly appears out of nowhere because you did a cut during postprocessing, why not give it a "sound" or effect like *ding* there it is. Makes this sudden jump-cuts much more bearable and maybe lets you add some minor jests to keep the mood up :)
Fantastic project Tom, Thank you. Sure, I'm probably not going to build one, but there is a ton of info that can (will) be used on my other projects.
That's so rad. Happy 2019 Tom. I remember the first review where you walked on top of it while it was printing. :D
P.s. I wonder if it requires more juice when printing in the snow? (PID for the hot end... Yeah? If you're actively cooling the hot end, it will have to pump in more heat... -- i.e. Battery life in snow is lower than in the house?)
Happy 2019 to you, too! The little guy is built so crazy tough, it's great for this sort of use!
Happy new year Tom.
Wow great job. Looks so professional! Great engineering too. : )
great idea and awesome execution. 10 out of 10 will recommend to friends and family.
VHB tape is amazing! I used it on my aluminum R2-D2 to adhere the body skins together. The secret is using a lot of pressure when applying! Great to see it being used here!
Eine sehr geile Idee!
Das ist die neue Form der 'Männerhandtasche' ! Wer braucht schon einen Träger Bier, wenn er einfach so einen Drucker mitnehmen kann!
Ich verfolge Deinen Kanal schon eine Weile und werde es auch weiterhin tun. Es ist Wahnsinn, was ich hier immer wieder neues lerne.
Your English is becoming flawless.
Remembering the times when you started your channel.
Great video, as always! Please tell me which filaments of which manufacturers do you recommend?
Absolutely love the idea! You can add this to any printer and just turn off the heated bed.
that's a VERY cool project Tom
Long live Printrbot! I recently renovated my Printrbot Simple Metal with an E3D v6 and a Duetwifi, almost silent now. Hey Tom!!
I was thinking about building something like this for Jamaica when i visit family. Its so rural that you truly need a machine like yours.
Me: Why is there a 3D printer out in the snow?
Tom: Full disclosure, it was me that put this here.
*Insert Pikachu meme here*
This is so awesome! The simple metal was my first printer. Printrbots are basically bomb-proof.
Next level stuff! Prusha ain't got nothin on this!
This is so cool! What a hero
Your videos are the best.. Inspiring me some much
That's a intense upgrade. Nice
I had the same idea for my Small rebuild 3D printer. Now I'm really motivated to let it do the same. I never owned a Printrbot Play but I alway liked it because of it's tank like construktion and it's simplicity.
Great project Tom! Very neat result. Maybe you can move the spool holder to the side or below the base (it can also double as bumper). Now we just need an epic crossover between this one and Angus' Fallout Printer :D
Very cool. I think one of the neatest features is the hot swappable batteries.
Reminds me of Naomi Wu's backpack 3D printer.
or Florian Horsch Ultimaker back in 2012 - but definitely easier to carry
You could also put batteries on the front side as well and print a cover for them all in red to match.
Thomas, you can setup bed heating for few first layers. It's necessary for the whole print only for some capricious plastics (like ABS) which (I believe) you'll still not be using in winter outdoor conditions :D
Neat idea! Makes me wonder if this is worth doing to a Monoprice Mini Delta, since those things go unbelievably cheap when open box. I bought one on a whim for $80, and it mostly sits idle on my table since my better printers do most of the work...
That Trinamic swag xD
Most comfortable beanie I own!
@@MadeWithLayers It sure looks comfy :-D
btw. you could use a small self holding relay with the pi as reset, so it is able to shut off when the print is finished.
Add one of those fancy illuminated ring buttons to use as soft button for turning on an off.
Hi Tom, Would love to see you do a build and review of a V1 Engineering LowRider2. Looks like a really compelling project.
cool project! all looks and works so 'stock'. curious how long it will take for features like this to be standard on entry level prices printers. plg and play is getting closer and closer.
about the looks; how about adding two more bumpers (you already have one extra I saw :)) on the front where the screws are already there? you don't necessarily need them, although the bottom one would also prevent tipping and the top one still does it's bumper job, but mainly I think it would just make the printer look extra cool and it nicely balances out all the newly added black to the back of the machine.
This is super cool, man.
I still have my Printrbot Simple Metal that I converted from the wooden kit! Is that the first symptom of 3D printer hoarding?
Finally some creative content !
Desde La Paz,Bolivia cada proyecto es genial! Una inspiración para seguir en el mundo 3d saludos!
cool idea. With regard to overall power consumption, would a resin printer not be better (thus last longer on batteries) ? Especially sing a LED or OLED display. The print head on a filament printer is a big power drain, no ?
Fantastic instructional video. Thanks
Hey Tom, what's the music you used in this video? It's fantastic.
That is cool tom
That was a very nice bit of integration. :)
I bet Brook wishes more projects like this were posted back when some people were saying metal-framed machines weren't "modder friendly".
Wow, what can I say? impressive project!
Hey Tom, thanks for improving my backpack printer from MRRF ;-)
This is really great content !!!!!!
Good project Tom - I think I might do the same for my Ender, except I'd use a couple of kWh of 18650s at 7S for 21-29V. I'm not sure how forgiving the Ender mainboard is but might be able to avoid using beefy buck converter, though a 7S BMS would be essential.
5V for a Pi with wifi from another buck would be easy, but could it integrate with the stock controller?
Uh, "a couple of kWh"? Are you sure? :P
The highest capacity 18650s currently available are around 3350mAh, which at 3.7V nominal gives 12.4Wh per cell. Therefore just a *single* kWh would require 80 cells, which at the current going rate for those cells on AliExpress would set you back around £250-300 :D
But by all means go for several kWh (at around 3.6kg/kWh!) if you want ;)
@@AndrewGillard Nissan Leaf modules are about $200/kWh and are a great choice for building a large battery bank.
Hi Thomas, could you make a video from ESD material types? Pros, cons, ect.
Thank you!
That Trinamic hat! Great!
Hey Tom, if you don't mind, can you make a video describing what's your favourite PETG and PLA+, cause I see huge difference in printability especially with PETG. So brand and why would be great.
wow, that is definitely an awesome idea, i have a suggestion though, the 3d printer board has to power some things like the stepper driver over 5v so you could optimize that buck converter out by having the 12v go into the board and using the boards 5v rail to power your raspberry pi, i'm doing the same thing currently in my local fablab with an external screencontroller for a cnc carving-setup :) by the way, you said something about linux not liking being unplugged, i've never had an issue with that in the 20 years i'm using linux as a daily driver except for 2-3 times when i was running system upgrades while accidentally unplugging power, was that really already an issue for you or is that maybe a myth from the proprietary OS area with their forced automated upgrades in the background? i always turn those raspberry pi's off and on by plugging and unplugging the power cord, curious to learn if i'm doing a mistake there :D
The DCDC for the Raspi is only a few cents, it's more efficient that the linear regulator on the board and provides a cleaner supply since it's specifically not also supply stepper drivers.
I've killed many OctoPi installs by unplugging the Raspberry Pi and have had desktop Linux installs refuse to properly boot up or corrupt files as well after losing power. It's really frustrating to lose a perfectly setup system to carelessly janking the power, so why risk it?
How easy would it be to add solar panels or other external charging? This could have real world applications in areas without access to mains electricity or consistent mains power and could be used by groups printing parts for irrigation, prosthetic limb printing etc
Very nice video and neat build! Enjoyed this one.
Just one moment where I took a sharp breath and went oooh. 18:35 You measured the current output across the output (parallel). Shouldn't you measure current draw in series with the whole system with a multi-meter? It can blow up things.
The idea is that the buck converter has a current limiter built in, essentially shorting the output through the multimeter triggers that current limiter and lets me set the value it limits to.
Nice white board drawing! ;)
Hi Very nice video amazing, I would ask you: how I setup octoprint or raspberry pi like wireless access poin? Bye
What a great build! Congrats on getting HackADay'ed again.
Some thoughts:
1. Mount a covered switch to disconnect the batteries without needing to remove them.
2. Would it be possible to mount the filament spool holder flat on the back between the batteries? That would make the whole thing *very* compact.
3. Make a full case/enclosure for it that latches to a base and lifts off like a sewing machine cover. That will both protect it and give you a secure carrying handle.
Hope this helps!
Printrbot :( *sniff*
Why bankruptcy why
For everyone here. Running commercial li-ion battery packs in parallel (sometimes even in series) is not an issue. It is NOT the same as individual unregulated cells, in which each cell has to be monitored and at the same charge levels. If the voltage of a commercial pack drops below a certain voltage, the built in PCM (protection circuit module) disconnects the output for that battery pack from the circuit to prevent over-discharge damage of the batteries within the pack. That PCM also controls the total charge of the battery when charging, as well as the individual cells inside. Any decent regulated battery pack worth calling a pack has a PCM with basic functions. So long as you are designing your battery power system using commercial packs, you should be fine. The only danger you should face would be with trying to RECHARGE the battery packs using a home-brew system, in which a CVCC module charging in parallel is the safest, though it would NOT use the built-in battery checking features of the proprietary PCM. Safest does not mean safe. My advice is to charge the battery packs with their factory charger. If attaching a power cord to run the built-in power supply, design and implement a two stage safety system consisting of a manual switch to disconnect the +side of the battery power supply from the system, in series with two high amperage micro switches (also in series) that engage when manually inserting the power cord itself into the unit, in case you forget to flip the switch. Accidental shorting of the unit's power supply, thus possibly connecting the battery packs to the AC mains circuit would cause you to have a very, very bad day. Personally, I would just acquire batteries of the same or higher voltage than I needed and run them in parallel to acquire the run time I desire, then feed the output to a CVCC module designed to output the same wattage as the factory power supply. Not brain surgery.
Hahaha. Excellent "You never know what you'll find, What is that?" A simple gag well executed.
That's one good use for an original raspberry pi, I'm impressed it could cope with running a printer. I have all my old pi's running lights and doing other unintensive tasks.
I'm actually not quite sure if I used a single-core or quad-core Pi for this - it's not the fastest, but for sure quick enough to provide a very usable OctoPrint experience.
If you're looking for something roughly the same size as the Original Pi with a lower profile than a Model Three and a bit more speed than a Pi Zero you could try a Raspberry Pi A+. They run a 64 bit quad core processor which will get you much better speeds than the ARM 11 on the Original Pi - they also have Bluetooth and WLAN as standard. That said though if the Original Pi works well enough with this I can't think of a much better use!
Get this man more subs!
Why would lowering the voltage save power for the hotend? Isn't your hotend temperature controlled?
Will we get to see this in person at MRRF???
If you want to ;-)
We need to see these prebuilt for sale
HE WANTS TOO. say you want to 3DPN or I will bite you :-) hehehe
I never saw one in red. looks HOT HOT HOT!
@@battroborgbattles2018 except PB is no more.
@@AmusementLabs Yes but Brook DID get to retain the rights to Printrbot.. so it could be revived on a small scale, or still do some smaller budget projects and such under the Printrbot name
Hallo Tom, für die LAN Verbindung könntest du noch eine Ethernet Frontplattenkupplung einbauen. Dann könntest du ein LAN-Kabel außen ins Gehäuse Stecken und musst dich nicht umständlich auf den LAN-Port vom Raspberry stöpseln.
Aber Geniale Idee und gute Umsetzung, mach weiter so!
Ist geplant!
Keep this project in mind for the summer and add a solar panel ! That would be cool! 🤓
This made me think what would happen if you printed upside down...assuming the print sticks to bed well enough?
Have you ever seen the FoldaRap, which is basically a Prusa I3 that folds into a large suitcase form factor. I bet you can’t get that off the grid without power.
Definitely an awesome build. Maybe not the most practical to lug around with you, but I'm sure it has its uses! I might be concerned with longevity of the system given you mixed and matched different capacity batteries, even given the diode array, but it'll certainly work. You'll just have very uneven draw from the 6 batteries, but since only 2 at full power can provide all the current that can't be a real problem. One note: LiIon and LiPo batteries don't have anywhere near 100% charging efficiency. If you charge at 1C you will need roughly 1.5 hours to fully charge. Add to that waste heat from diode voltage drops in this system and you are looking at wasting about .15 volts * 6 = 0.9 volts at 5 amps, meaning you have about .9*5=4.5 watts less going into the batteries. I would say you need to charge for a minimum of 2 hours from dead to full charge instead of under one hour.
I thought that one of the nice things about Li-Ion/LiPo cells is that they *do* have almost 100% charge efficiency? I've heard several people say that, and I see much the same myself when I measure the energy used to charge a Li-Ion cell and the energy I can get back out of it...
Are you maybe thinking about use cases like USB power banks, where a single Li-Ion cell is charged from a 5V supply, so that 5V has to be dropped to at most 4.2V for charging? Cheaper devices will use simple linear regulators which, yes, will be very inefficient and generate a lot of heat, but the nicer devices use buck converters that ought to be at least 80% and probably closer to 90%... (And of course the buck regulator method is what Tom's doing here...)
12:12 Volt? Neat Idea though. A Custom 18650 Pack would be the ceaper and less complicated Choice if one needs to source the Parts without a bunch of Cam Batterys in the Drawer.
RIP Printrbot. Thanks to Brook Drumm for the great contributions to open source 3D Printing!
Where'd you get that trinamic beanie?
Just awesome.
I would add a power switch but this is just a little Thing right? :)
And if you can't run outside you could do a Livestream and do it like the good old times where the MK2 was the best of the best in the 3D Printing World. 😉
Ouh and btw.
THX for the PP of Volt Cola (in one of those old Livestreams) this tastes better than Cola. 😁✔
Nice Job! Now a switch powered by the raspberry pi could power down the printer and itself. With a mechanical switch on the outside you could only power up your octopi.
Just a suggestion ;-)
So Tom has started revolutionising the 3D printing. I mean all the innovations people are doing in this space are remarkable but this can really solve issues of power failures, travellers and you can hook this up to Solar panels. What do you say Tom on the go solar power printer?
Tying in solar would be trivial, but in winter here I'd actually need a full-size panel to run the printer without draining the batteries.
Yes. And this is already very good project and very engaging video. I appreciate your efforts.
I'm the kind of person who takes comfort things with me everywhere. Used to change from a few plushes to now Tetris cartridges. How about a FULL FLEDGED 3D PRINTER
I'm surprised walking in the snow carrying what looks like a 70s sewing machine with a roll of wire attached to it didn't get you arrested lol
Cool idea 👍 couldn't you make a smaller battery option like with some 18650 batteries in series? The Samsung 25R are rated for 20A continuous. There extremely popular in the vape community and those ebike kits. More than enough power with just 4. Maybe make a 2 or 3 series for extending battery life.
I assumed you just used what was kicking around.
The big NP-F batteries are essentially 2S3P 18650 packs - you can of course use fewer cells in total if battery life isn't as much of an issue.
You should start going around with it to spark up conversations. 'What's this you ask? Why it's a mobile 3d printer....that I built.' :{J
You could use a RPi Zero to save some space. Smaller, have WiFi, lower cost. :-)
You also might consider to have the RPi in a more open space in the tower, to get better access to the WiFi.
Might also want to route out some status LED:s of battery status etc.
Should also be able to get a shut down from the RPi I/O ports to an on/off switch.
You might want to control the power from a relay. Probably also control that relay with a button on the RPi. Might be self holding, so you don't need to hold the button pressed down while booting the RPi.
Hm, a rocking switch as an on/off switch would solve that. And let the RPi hold the relay when turning the machine off, until it actually is ready. That on/off is then read by the RPi, just a very short Python program for that. Lots of instructions how to do this out there.