Agreed - this works totally great!! After about 30 minutes of pounding with a hammer - we happened on this suggestion and had the rotor off in about 5 minutes!! Thanks so much!
Thank You Very much for this info. I have been beating on a rotor for 30 minutes straight with a 5 lbs. hammer and did not move. Tried your nut and bolt trick. Less then 1 minute it was off. Took longer to find the nut and bolt... Nut and bolt now has been add to the tool box. You are the man!
So happy that I can help! I know the frustration, as I have been there before. Such an easy trick, my nut and bolt has its special spot next the the 10mm! Thanks for watching and commenting.
WOW!! I just spent a couple hours with penetrating oil, a torch and a hammer. Glad I decided to see if there was someone ingenious out there to help! THANKS!
Yeah! I was there a number of years ago as well. That nut and bolt has seen dozens of brake jobs since. Glad this trick was able to help you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I was smacking my rotors for like 3 hours,so glad I found your video. I used a small bolt and nut initially and broke it and was stucked in there so I end up cutting it with a hack saw. I then used the bigger bolt and nut 12 mm and it came out easy. Thanks a lot and a new subscriber to your channel 👌
Thanks so much for this video! You saved my day brother. The rotors on my Honda civic were welded to the hub so badly, no amount of hammering or prying was doing any good and not wanting to cause damage to the wheel bearing by continuing to slam it with the hammer, I needed an idea and this one worked like a charm! 👍
This may be an “old” trick for some but this video saved my ass! Working on a 2012 Chevy equinox with original rotors ~86k on them, plus it’s rust city lol. I was banging on that rotor for like 2 hours yesterday 😂. Sprayed a couple different penetrating liquids, let sit and then tried this and when I heard the crack/pop, I was celebrating haha. Thanks man!!
Living in the land of rust and corruption “Illinois” this is a must needed trick! I have been doing this for almost 6 years. I have used the same nut and both for at least 6 brakes jobs on our vehicles. Remember you are pushing against another surface and using force. Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Yeah I wish I knew of this trick 7 years ago when I had a stuck rotor on our Ford Focus. Now this nut and bolt has its own dedicated storage bin 😂. Remember you are pushing against another surface and using force. Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
@@TripodsGarage Yeah, I think as I want to keep the rotors, I'm going to put a thick chunk of aluminum in front of the bolt so less likely to cause damage, and also try to avoid putting too much lateral force on the caliper mounts, don't want to be replacing the whole axle if I can avoid it 🤣 Thanks again!
Good info, thanks. DOUBLE CHECK there is no rotor retention screw on the face of the rotor. A few things I learned. I did spray some PB Blaster in the hole for the lug stud where the rotor meets the hub. When I removed the rotor that area was wet so some the PB Blaster did get in there. I let that sit for 1 hour. I bought bolts that were just a little smaller than the caliper bolts (take one to the store with you), and long enough to stick out the back of the caliper bracket 1/2 inch. I think they were 5/8". I bought 2, one for the lower and one for the upper caliper bolt hole. I think that may work better as you are getting force on two points. (who knows, just makes sense). I also put a washer between the nut and the caliper bracket. Just so the nut is not sinking into the caliper bracket hole and all the force is going towards the rotor. Put two lug studs on the front with say 4 turns, just so the rotor does not fall of and hit your foot. or something. So I got both bolts snug and then turned each one 1 turn. Wait say 15 seconds between turns. This gives some time for the force to work the rotor loose. If it is still not coming off, then a few taps with a hammer may jar it loose. In my case turning each bolt worked and the rotor popped loose.
This method does work very well but a word of caution. The steering knuckle which is being used as the bolt anchor is a cast part not designed for a lot of side load. A severely stuck rotor might create enough resistance to actually bend (or crack) the bolt tab on the knuckle - have had this happen and turns a relatively simple brake job into a much more involved repair. Don't keep cranking the bolt if the rotor doesn't initially budge. Loosen the tension and rotate periodically like shown in this video. After a few times around, it will likely start to move.
Yep. Bent my steering knuckle about 1/16". Might be able to straighten it once I get the stuck rotor off. Mine just isn't coming off. I Put some penetrating oil around the back mating surfaces where it's all rusty and around the bolt holes. We'll let that sit a half day and see if it helps. Doubt it, but hell, it's all I got left to try. I even put anti seize between my rotor and hub last time I did a brake job. Didn't help much lol. Gotta live rust belt trucks.
I have a special bin for my rotor but and bolt! Could be just as valuable as that 10mm 🤔. It takes me longer to get the tools and parts out, than to do the job. Hopefully that rotor pops right off 👍
Just came to say that I used your tip tonight to break a rotor free after beating it to death and using pb blaster 🤣. It worked like a charm. Thank you for the out of the box idea.
Yes The Land of Rust and Corruption (Illinois) has done a number on our vehicles! Every process has its own risks, beating it with a hammer, a torch, or even this method. Each has its own risk of possibly causing some damage to remove stubborn rusty parts!. Just a matter which one might have the least amount of impact! Thanks for watching fellow rust belt neighbor 👍
@@TripodsGaragethanks for checking! Somehow I didn’t have a nut & bolt so I went to get one and my rotor was so completely rusted and seized up that it bent the bolt! It surely must’ve loosened it up at least a little because another hour of wailing on it and it came off 😅
I do this with bolts both bracket holes at the same time and I seldom have to turn the rotor to break it fully free. My issue is my bolts mar so it’s hard to put the nuts on them to reuse. I guess I’ll have to look for harder ones.
I tried this on my 24 year old Hyundai coupe but it didn't get the disc off it's cracked one of the arms instead and I'm now trying to find a new or used steering knuckle....I think the technique probably only works on newer cars . Mines been standing for 10 years. I've tried everything I know to remove the disc. Parts seem hard to find now.
Well the way I look at it, there are also risks of beating it with a sledgehammer. Reminds me of the book series I used to read when I was younger, “Choose Your Own Adventure!”. Unfortunately there are risks no matter which solution you go with, nut and bolt, heat, sledgehammer, or sledgehammer and heat.
@@TripodsGarage what are your nuts? Replacing a rotor if you break it hit it with a hammer isn’t even close to having replaced that hole bracket if you break that eye hole for the boat! $40 rotor versus $1500 repair to the bracket minimum!
@@BrettHorst-l9s Do you live in the rust belt? I attempted to do a brake job on our 2012 Ford Focus around 7 years ago. That rotor would not come off! I had to abandon the repair. I brought the car to the local automotive repair shop. You know what they did? When heat and gentle persuasion didn’t work? The took full swings with a sledgehammer! This wasn’t just one or two swings, this was many swings! I would rather take the risk of a nut and bolt, than a grown adult taking swings at my rotor with a sledgehammer. I mean, if you think that there wouldn’t be any adverse consequences from repeated blows of a sledgehammer, than you do you 👍
Great tip, John. Do we assume the bolt isn't hitting the brake surface and it's pushing on the rough casting closer to the center? As another TH-camr once said... If brute force isn't working, you're not using enough of it.🤡 Seriously tho, I'd probably also bop the opposite side w/ the mallet while applying the bolt method. Shock/impact therapy can add to the mix sometimes.
There is a note in the description. NOTE: These rotors were shot, and are being replaced. Be sure if you use this method that you are going to be replacing the rotor. If you are keeping the rotor. Make sure that the bolt isn’t in contact with the pad surface of the rotor. If the bolt is in contact of the pad surface of the rotor, use something between the bolt and the rotor to protect the rotor surface. Yes! Brute force! Something tells me if I have to use brute force on something, something else will be affected in the surrounding area 🤔. That is why I have always been against it. After the first time with the ratchet, there was a pop. At that time of the pop, hitting it with the mallet most likely would have broke the rotor off. Great suggestion 👍
Thought we were onto a winner .... but afraid not ...bolt punched a hole right through the disc.. Hub and disc rusted together and nothing is going to separate them.
Correct! It absolutely isn’t new. I have seen people use impacts while doing this 🤨! I would rather take the slow approach, back it off and turn the rotor. It can crack the structure, just like beating it with a mallet or hammer. That is also why I had the warning at the beginning of the video, and in the description. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi! I’d you’re like me and you’ve come to look for ‘how to remove stubborn REAR Rotors’ and this (awesome) video STILL didn’t help: make sure the ‘emergency brake’ is disengaged! Because that emergency brake is holding onto the rotor for dear life, so make sure you have blocking under the other wheels so it doesn’t roll, and disengage the emergency brakes. 😂
SOLID POINT! Yeah! I have those emergency brakes for my F150 in the rear. They are basically a drum brake, and use the inside of the rotors. I could definitely see that happening. Glad you were able to figure it out!
This method has been my goto for 6 years! This will also work with stuck wheel bearings! Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Best thing I've learned from the internet in 2024, if not ever. Popped right off. Awesome, you rock!
That is amazing! So glad that my video was able to help you. This nut and bolt is was the best $2.00 I ever spent when replacing brakes.
Agreed - this works totally great!! After about 30 minutes of pounding with a hammer - we happened on this suggestion and had the rotor off in about 5 minutes!! Thanks so much!
That is awesome! Wish I would have known this 12yrs ago when I did my first brake job. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank You Very much for this info. I have been beating on a rotor for 30 minutes straight with a 5 lbs. hammer and did not move. Tried your nut and bolt trick. Less then 1 minute it was off. Took longer to find the nut and bolt... Nut and bolt now has been add to the tool box. You are the man!
So happy that I can help! I know the frustration, as I have been there before. Such an easy trick, my nut and bolt has its special spot next the the 10mm! Thanks for watching and commenting.
My story exactly! Thank you so much for this extremely useful tip.
WOW!! I just spent a couple hours with penetrating oil, a torch and a hammer. Glad I decided to see if there was someone ingenious out there to help! THANKS!
Yeah! I was there a number of years ago as well. That nut and bolt has seen dozens of brake jobs since. Glad this trick was able to help you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TripodsGarage
Thanks to you for saving me a bunch of time. I’ve tried a torch, hammer, and everything else to no avail.
I was smacking my rotors for like 3 hours,so glad I found your video. I used a small bolt and nut initially and broke it and was stucked in there so I end up cutting it with a hack saw. I then used the bigger bolt and nut 12 mm and it came out easy. Thanks a lot and a new subscriber to your channel 👌
So happy this worked for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Took one swing of the hammer on my rotor and immediately went looking for a better option. Thank you!
Awesome!
Excellent! Added a thin piece of metal between the rotor and bolt end to increase surface area and it worked a charm!
Thanks so much for this video! You saved my day brother. The rotors on my Honda civic were welded to the hub so badly, no amount of hammering or prying was doing any good and not wanting to cause damage to the wheel bearing by continuing to slam it with the hammer, I needed an idea and this one worked like a charm! 👍
Awesome, glad it helped!
This works... I would have never thought of this, one of the most simple things but brilliant! Thank you
Awesome! Gad it worked!
Worked like a charm on my 2016 Mustang. Thank you so much!
All them other videos are just noise. You’re the truth, Boss! Just made this family mans day that much better. Appreciate you!
Many thanks! Just wanted it short and to the point 👍. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TripodsGarage
You should have a million likes for your ingenuity!
Works perfectly. Took me 2 minutes to take the rotor off. A big thank you!!!
Awesome!
After a bunch of wailing I found your video! Working great!
So glad the video can help people! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Broo u saved my day. Will always remember this. Thanks so much
Awesome! Hope you have a special place for the nut and bolt?
Good Sir - you are a gentleman and a scholar 🙂
Many thanks!
This may be an “old” trick for some but this video saved my ass! Working on a 2012 Chevy equinox with original rotors ~86k on them, plus it’s rust city lol. I was banging on that rotor for like 2 hours yesterday 😂. Sprayed a couple different penetrating liquids, let sit and then tried this and when I heard the crack/pop, I was celebrating haha. Thanks man!!
It worked for my 03 ram 1500 😅 I don't think the rotors ever been off in 200k with how rusted and stuck on it was
Living in the land of rust and corruption “Illinois” this is a must needed trick! I have been doing this for almost 6 years. I have used the same nut and both for at least 6 brakes jobs on our vehicles.
Remember you are pushing against another surface and using force. Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
NEW SUBSCRIBER!! Thanks a million!!!! Great video!!! The holes for the bolts were stripped then I found your video!!! You’re the best man!!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching and the sub!
THIS WAS GREAT!!!!!!!!!! One thing to KNOW however...... If it's a Ford F`150 2WD, the ROTOR AND HUB are ONE PIECE... I just found out the hard way.
Brilliant idea! And there's me smashing away with a hammer thinking I'd never get the 🤬 thing off. Will definitely try this - thanks for posting!
Yeah I wish I knew of this trick 7 years ago when I had a stuck rotor on our Ford Focus. Now this nut and bolt has its own dedicated storage bin 😂. Remember you are pushing against another surface and using force. Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
@@TripodsGarage Yeah, I think as I want to keep the rotors, I'm going to put a thick chunk of aluminum in front of the bolt so less likely to cause damage, and also try to avoid putting too much lateral force on the caliper mounts, don't want to be replacing the whole axle if I can avoid it 🤣 Thanks again!
Good info, thanks. DOUBLE CHECK there is no rotor retention screw on the face of the rotor.
A few things I learned. I did spray some PB Blaster in the hole for the lug stud where the rotor meets the hub. When I removed the rotor that area was wet so some the PB Blaster did get in there. I let that sit for 1 hour.
I bought bolts that were just a little smaller than the caliper bolts (take one to the store with you), and long enough to stick out the back of the caliper bracket 1/2 inch. I think they were 5/8". I bought 2, one for the lower and one for the upper caliper bolt hole. I think that may work better as you are getting force on two points. (who knows, just makes sense).
I also put a washer between the nut and the caliper bracket. Just so the nut is not sinking into the caliper bracket hole and all the force is going towards the rotor.
Put two lug studs on the front with say 4 turns, just so the rotor does not fall of and hit your foot. or something.
So I got both bolts snug and then turned each one 1 turn. Wait say 15 seconds between turns. This gives some time for the force to work the rotor loose. If it is still not coming off, then a few taps with a hammer may jar it loose.
In my case turning each bolt worked and the rotor popped loose.
All solid advice ☝️👍
I spent 2 hrs hammering got nothing, this method took me 30seconds, you are genius😂😂😂
Nice! So glad it worked for you!
Wow! Thank you for saving me a bunch of time.
I assume it worked?
Brilliant! Worked great!
This method does work very well but a word of caution. The steering knuckle which is being used as the bolt anchor is a cast part not designed for a lot of side load. A severely stuck rotor might create enough resistance to actually bend (or crack) the bolt tab on the knuckle - have had this happen and turns a relatively simple brake job into a much more involved repair. Don't keep cranking the bolt if the rotor doesn't initially budge. Loosen the tension and rotate periodically like shown in this video. After a few times around, it will likely start to move.
Yep. Bent my steering knuckle about 1/16". Might be able to straighten it once I get the stuck rotor off. Mine just isn't coming off. I Put some penetrating oil around the back mating surfaces where it's all rusty and around the bolt holes. We'll let that sit a half day and see if it helps. Doubt it, but hell, it's all I got left to try. I even put anti seize between my rotor and hub last time I did a brake job. Didn't help much lol. Gotta live rust belt trucks.
Thank you so much
Bro you saved my sanity. Thank you so much.
Now you can lose your sanity on something else 😄
You just save me hours of cursing in Spanish 🎉 thank you!
Glad I could help!
You Sir, are my hero 😎
It worked like a charm 👍
Awesome!
Great tip! Saved me a lot of time. Thanks.
Great to hear!
Amazing video, best info on TH-cam. Thank you !
Many thanks!
Thank you, you just saved me beating my head against the wall!
So happy this little tip helped! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Oh my God that was awesome. Totally worked
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and commenting!
This video is ready to save my ass tomorrow. Damn damn if the weather wasn’t bad, I would do it. 😅
I have a special bin for my rotor but and bolt! Could be just as valuable as that 10mm 🤔. It takes me longer to get the tools and parts out, than to do the job. Hopefully that rotor pops right off 👍
Thank you so much!
Absolutely! That nut and bolt have a dedicated spot in my garage, right next to the 10mm 😂
Watched your video, thanks for the info. Done in a matter of minutes 👍👍👍
Happy it worked for you!
I was trying all other methods out there, failed. I found your video and you saved me.
If you ever come to Israel let me know, I will buy you a 🍺
That is amazing! If I come to Israel, I will take you up on the adult frosty beverage!
Thanks brother! I lost my sledge and was freaking out lol gonna try this on a Tundra from Colorado 😅
Did it work?
Just came to say that I used your tip tonight to break a rotor free after beating it to death and using pb blaster 🤣. It worked like a charm. Thank you for the out of the box idea.
Amazing!
Dangit, now i dont have an excuse to pay someone else crazy rates to pop off those seized rotors! Got to love living in the rust belt!
Yes The Land of Rust and Corruption (Illinois) has done a number on our vehicles! Every process has its own risks, beating it with a hammer, a torch, or even this method. Each has its own risk of possibly causing some damage to remove stubborn rusty parts!. Just a matter which one might have the least amount of impact! Thanks for watching fellow rust belt neighbor 👍
Brilliant
Use an old brake pad or similar for the bolt to make contact. It spreads the direct force over a larger area and pops the disc quickly.
I have done that as well!
Oh my god, I wish I found this video 2 hours ago…. Let’s hope this works!
Did it work?
@@TripodsGaragethanks for checking! Somehow I didn’t have a nut & bolt so I went to get one and my rotor was so completely rusted and seized up that it bent the bolt! It surely must’ve loosened it up at least a little because another hour of wailing on it and it came off 😅
This is the second video I've seen with this trick, and the thought occurs to me, can you damage the knuckle this way?
Thinking with your brain on this one
Thanks!
Many thanks bud! I assume it worked 😉
NIce tip!! Although I do love any chance to go bezerk with a sledge. 🤣
You really have a point! It is like a rage room in your driveway :-)
This is great however I have a 1996 astrovan with stuck rotors and the bolts go above and below the rotors. No one has offered a viable solution.
OMG!!! Thank you!!!!
You are welcome!
Will that work on the rear disc with parking brake shoes inside the drum
Wow! What a time saver!
Where rainbows come out of the butts of unicorns 😂😂 Where do you find these clips 😂
Yeah, my Ford Focus gave me trouble a number of years ago. This saved a lot of time.
Took a while to find that clip 😂
You are brilliant thx a ton
Absolutely!
I do this with bolts both bracket holes at the same time and I seldom have to turn the rotor to break it fully free. My issue is my bolts mar so it’s hard to put the nuts on them to reuse. I guess I’ll have to look for harder ones.
what's the length and diameter of bolt? Please do you have a link for it?
1/2” diameter and about 5.25” in length
I am using 3/8 with 2" length, I feel 7/16 is better but depends on your hole size of the hub
I tried this on my 24 year old Hyundai coupe but it didn't get the disc off it's cracked one of the arms instead and I'm now trying to find a new or used steering knuckle....I think the technique probably only works on newer cars . Mines been standing for 10 years. I've tried everything I know to remove the disc. Parts seem hard to find now.
Going to store right now
Hope it worked for you?
What size bolt
What if that bracket breaks before rotor does? 😩
Well the way I look at it, there are also risks of beating it with a sledgehammer. Reminds me of the book series I used to read when I was younger, “Choose Your Own Adventure!”. Unfortunately there are risks no matter which solution you go with, nut and bolt, heat, sledgehammer, or sledgehammer and heat.
@@TripodsGarage what are your nuts? Replacing a rotor if you break it hit it with a hammer isn’t even close to having replaced that hole bracket if you break that eye hole for the boat! $40 rotor versus $1500 repair to the bracket minimum!
@@BrettHorst-l9s Do you live in the rust belt? I attempted to do a brake job on our 2012 Ford Focus around 7 years ago. That rotor would not come off! I had to abandon the repair. I brought the car to the local automotive repair shop. You know what they did? When heat and gentle persuasion
didn’t work? The took full swings with a sledgehammer! This wasn’t just one or two swings, this was many swings! I would rather take the risk of a nut and bolt, than a grown adult taking swings at my rotor with a sledgehammer. I mean, if you think that there wouldn’t be any adverse consequences from repeated blows of a sledgehammer, than you do you 👍
Great tip, John. Do we assume the bolt isn't hitting the brake surface and it's pushing on the rough casting closer to the center?
As another TH-camr once said... If brute force isn't working, you're not using enough of it.🤡
Seriously tho, I'd probably also bop the opposite side w/ the mallet while applying the bolt method. Shock/impact therapy can add to the mix sometimes.
There is a note in the description.
NOTE:
These rotors were shot, and are being replaced. Be sure if you use this method that you are going to be replacing the rotor. If you are keeping the rotor. Make sure that the bolt isn’t in contact with the pad surface of the rotor. If the bolt is in contact of the pad surface of the rotor, use something between the bolt and the rotor to protect the rotor surface.
Yes! Brute force! Something tells me if I have to use brute force on something, something else will be affected in the surrounding area 🤔. That is why I have always been against it.
After the first time with the ratchet, there was a pop. At that time of the pop, hitting it with the mallet most likely would have broke the rotor off. Great suggestion 👍
@@TripodsGarage what? I was supposed to read the description? 🤡😜
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP - That is why I personally delivered the description to you 😂😂
Pretty tricky
Thought we were onto a winner .... but afraid not ...bolt punched a hole right through the disc.. Hub and disc rusted together and nothing is going to separate them.
On no! Never seen one that was that seized 😞
Mine too. Thougt it was moving but it was bending the ear!
What size bolt?
Bolt length is 3in, diameter is 0.47in, 19mm head
This procedure is nothing new. But this can crack the structure. It does not work all the time.
Correct! It absolutely isn’t new. I have seen people use impacts while doing this 🤨! I would rather take the slow approach, back it off and turn the rotor. It can crack the structure, just like beating it with a mallet or hammer. That is also why I had the warning at the beginning of the video, and in the description. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Genius. I live in Ohio these cars come off the assembly line rusted
Living in Rusty Illinois I feel you!
Hi! I’d you’re like me and you’ve come to look for ‘how to remove stubborn REAR Rotors’ and this (awesome) video STILL didn’t help: make sure the ‘emergency brake’ is disengaged!
Because that emergency brake is holding onto the rotor for dear life, so make sure you have blocking under the other wheels so it doesn’t roll, and disengage the emergency brakes. 😂
SOLID POINT!
Yeah! I have those emergency brakes for my F150 in the rear. They are basically a drum brake, and use the inside of the rotors. I could definitely see that happening. Glad you were able to figure it out!
Were rainbows harmed in the making of this video?
Rainbows were not harmed, the unicorns are still questionable 🤨
😎
I went thru two screws heading to part store at 6:30 am this mf coming off today
Hope the MF came off!
I prefer a hammer to remind me how much I hate myself.
I don’t want my neighbors to miss out on me beating my crappy car! It is like a rage room 😂
😂
You smart SOB. You saved my ass tonight lol 🫣 I don't think the rotors ever been changed on this 20 yr old truck
This method has been my goto for 6 years! This will also work with stuck wheel bearings! Will this cause anymore damage than smashing away with a big hammer, or using a torch? I cannot answer that. All I know is I have been using this method for 6 years now with no issues. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Wow! Thank you for saving me a bunch of time.
Hope it worked for you?