LOL! At 0:53! I was at a similar spot when I roughed out my basement bathroom. I did all of the excavation and removed all of the old CI drain myself. Was then quoted $8k from a local plumber that runs ads all over the TV when all he needed to do was run some PVC for a toilet, vanity, and shower! That’s when I decided to watch lots of how to videos and eventually did it myself. Cost of PVC, fittings, fernco, and glue was less than $250!
Man you gotta get your kid down there with you pushing back on that pvc while you connect them! Looks awesome sir. FYI this is the best bathroom remodeling channel on youtube, ive seen them all. Dont change anything, you showing every step and doing it yourself is what sets you apart brother
Thanks for this. After we finish our kitchen we'll be tackling a basement bathroom and relocating a laundry hookup. Except we'll be tearing out an 80s era illegal bathroom instead of just blank concrete. This series is helping me visualize the project.
@@kevinhornbuckle Considering it. Really want to keep costs lower on this project as it's not going to be a showcase. The basement will be hobby/DIY spaces, laundry, and storage. And I'm not a fan of resistive heat, and wonder about the performance of the type of products used on this channel when installed over a concrete slab. But they just seem cheap enough we might just go for it anyway.
great video truly, but one glaring thing to me is i believe that basement bathroom group is improperly wet vented. Plumbing to code can be very tricky so I don't fault you. I believe the way to correct that would be to have your stack wrap around the same wall as your clean out and 90 down towards your main drain that way you can catch your water closet, vanity and tub on the same line and then catch them further downstream on that 3 or 4 inch drain line. Of course this is just what I see and if you already passed inspection what im suggesting doesn't matter. Thank you for the content regardless it was a pleasure to watch!
Some plumbing rough-in situations require re-bar stakes and wire or strap to temporarily hold the pipes in place. Also, it is good to have some gravel available to support the pipes. Remember to take video or pics to document your layout for future trouble-shooting. Nice work. Thank you for making your videos.
For a small house 900sf2 with one bath and laundry in the garage, can I tie all the vents in the attic to a single vent 3" and direct it out to the highest point of the side of the house so there will be no penetration through the roof since I am planning on installing metal roof?
Back in the 90’s I had a 2 family and had to redo the plumbing, the plumber I used built this magnificent copper drain tree in the bsmt. I’m just sad I didn’t see him putting that together it really was a work of art.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I understood that referred to 90-deg fittings not being actually 90-degree (to allow for pitch) but never heard of this with horizontal assemblies. I'm actually dealing with this issue right now. Can you provide more details?
@@stormbytes I can't imagine that's correct. That would mean that there are different wyes and 45s for left- and right hand turns. I turn the wye fitting slightly upwards and check the pitch with a spirit level. If the bubble touches one of the two lines in the middle it's just about right. Plumbing the face of the wye leaves you with no pitch whatsoever.
Excellent video .. I've done a few of these and it took me forever to find out the correct way to get it done right. Tying in the upstairs bath and fixtures def adds some complexity. Also yes here in VA they don't accept the ABS-PVC glue, you have to use a fernco or something like you did. You are a great instructor for practical real-world bathroom remodeling!
LOL. "VERY SIMPLE AND STRAIGHT FORWARD" Ummm. I now know why my plumber charged 5k for the same project. That is super intense, and your experience really made it LOOK " VERY SIMPLE AND STRAIGHT FORWARD." Well done!
Why is a shower (vs vanity) considered two fixture units in regard to venting via one Y? Just for the volume of water coming through it or for some other reason? A word of caution for the DIYers; pay close attention to what Steve is talking about in regard to WET vs DRY venting! So much to unpack here so make sure to understand before proceeding! Another epic BRT video not seen on the tube yet. p.s. ten courage stars for the team, to make this unpredictable dig and have a nerve to keep all the lights and video equipment just to share it with us! 👍💪👊
Thanks 😊 and that’s a great question. I pretty it’s based off the water volume consumed. I’ll have to look up what that threshold is. For instance a toilet is 3 future units @ 1.6 gal, but 4 above that 👍
My one negative comment: instead of cutting holes in the joists to run the drain line for the upstairs vanity, I would have run it within the joist bay to the wall and THEN UNDER the joists as that would presumably be within the new wall that will be framed in. Sidenote: how do you propose framing that new wall around those pipes?
Cutting the edge of a joist that much is definitely not code. The highest stress is in the top and bottom of the joist so all the strength is gone now. Middle third is the way to go if you must drill through.
Man, that looks like a lot of work but you're flying through it. I did a basement bathroom reno last year and redid all the plumbing under the slab. It was my first time so I went slow and it took me a long time, but it turned out great. I probably spent twice as long as you to put together half the amount of piping. I can appreciate the work you put into this! One thing though... you keep saying your toilet will be 12 inches from the framing, but isn't it supposed to be 12 inches from the finished wall? In other words, 12.5 inches from framing minus half inch for drywall? Not sure if you misspoke or what, but I hope that doesn't come back to bite you.
I don't recommend beating on pipe with a metal hammer. A mallet would be better. It can crack the pipe and/or fittings that you won't notice until it's too late.
Typically 3rd toilet ties in on a vertical if still needed to be on 3”. On horizontal, after the 2nd u need to jump to 4”. This is why you see back to back bathrooms on 2nd floor coming down on one 3” line to the basement. It’s all about fixture units and size and orientation of pipe,
Personally I would have taken that ABS vent down the joist cavity towards the block wall. Then 90 down into the future stud wall and then do a horizontal run in that wall over to the left and down to the sink drain. That way you avoid having to put big holes in your joists weakening them.
Then the stud wall should be in already so you can run the pipe through the stud work no? Running the ABS horizontal beforehand makes it impossible to put the stud wall in
@@marcusjuhasz3501 You can leave that section out until you install the studs. And put some temporary caps or duct tape on the open ends to keep the sewer gasses out. Until drywall goes on anything in the wall can be temporary.
Might be dumb question, but what type of pvc pipe u using? Foam core, solid core? Just learned there’s differences between dwv pipes. All lowes and HD have is foam core and wanna know if thatll do for something similar to this.
Schedule 40 refers to sizing and wall thickness standards, not if it's foam core or solid core.@@Ghost87v Solid core has red text on it (at least at Home Depot) or will say it is suitable for pressure applications or have a psi rating on it. You can use foam core underground, as is the case in this video.
I did not see a sliding joint in the vertical stack between basement and upper floor, I think that is a Canadian code install requirement though my son's house did not have one and his ABS pipe shattered one Spring when the house settled, (or someone knocked it in the unfinished basement). It was definitely needed for us to put the system back together. I had to get the joint from a plumbing wholesaler and I think it was around $70 Canadian. In my Canadian house I also had to add a sliding joint on a vent stack because it was pulling apart, you don't want this happening buried in a wall where you might only notice the smell.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher if memory serves the ABS came through the cement floor without a foam wrap so if house moved separate from cement floor something has to give. I guess I would also suggest wrapping joints going through Cement floors to be wrapped with flexible foam or bubble wrap. I am helping my brother in law in Mexico whose house will have both a cement floor and a cement roof. The roof stack must have a solid pour around it or roof will leak I will be making sure to include flexible foam at the floor pass through and seriously considering a sliding joint or a rubber coupling to provide for some vertical movement, it does not help that the area experiences 7 point earthquakes every few years. At least it is PVC.
That’s not how you horizontal wet vent. The toilet would need to be first with wye branch shower/lav coming in after so air can be pulled in. Your toilet is straight up not vented.
You can't use venting fittings below the Is blood rim of any fixture, It has to be a minimum of 6 inches above the flood rium, All the fittings for the upstairs need to be drainage fittings,
You should put the shower drain right on the money if someone down the road wants to change to a I piece shower they won’t have to go deep underground to re rough it
I know you are trying to help people, so I appreciate that, but if you don’t show how to do it properly, you are only setting them up for failure. I see some, who are obviously plumbers, have already commented on some of the improper venting, but there are several other improper venting and drain issues that weren’t mentioned. Who ties a vent into the wet portion of a 3” stack? Not a plumber. That’s just one thing, but there are many others. Also, somebody already mentioned reaming and chamfering the plastic pipe. This is crucial for a proper solvent welded joint, plus, the chamfer makes it easier for rookies to dry-fit their system because it will allow the dry pipe to seat completely and it will go into the hub without having to whack it with a hammer, and it will pull back apart much easier. I think if this was inspected, there would be a follow-up video showing you tearing everything out, and I mean everything, then you trying to do it the way it is supposed to be done. There is no code where this “system” would pass inspection. There is a reason plumbing is a specialized trade. We spend years learning our trade so we can provide our customers with a proper, well-functioning plumbing system. We make money fixing problems caused by people doing their own thing and covering it up with drywall and tile.
I appreciate you watching and commenting, but if you are not going to watch the full video it’s not really a well informed statement. It’s not a wet vent there. It’s vent that goes straight to roof. And chamfering piping is something I think is nice to do of course 👍 much respect to all the master plumbers out there 👍 there’s a lot more for me to learn I agree
That shower trap is right at the main drain line level. That leg will get backup from the main drain leg and will be set up for repeat problems down the road. Roll the branch fittings so the branch lines have substantial reduction of backup from surges of flow.
A wet that needs to be increased by one size, Is shower drain needs to be a 2 inch, If a lab is tying into it it also has to be a 2 inch to increase it by one size for a wet vent
You really need to review your wet venting layout. Wet venting is way more restrictive than you are showing. You have most of the correct fittings, but the positioning is wrong. You also have exceeded the fixture units on the wet vent. There is also a limit on how long a pipe can be without a fixture on it- think about your clean out length. With that existing 3 “” copper vent , it would have been just as easy to vent each fixture. Please folks that are seeing this-- there are a few problems with this system. Remember to get your permits and inspections and use the code that applies to your jurisdiction.
Hm hmm, my wishful thinking seems to be coming through. Unfortunately you hade to do all that extra work and take the roman-tercota plumbing out but I’ll enjoy the video fo’sho. 💪👊
the toilet can not vent from the Face sink that wrong the toilet need's a separate vent also the wet vent is for the shower and the Face sink ( so the shower venting off the Face sink pipe so that's a wet vent) Then u revent so u put the Face sink vent with the toilet vent and go out with one vent pipe
LOL! At 0:53! I was at a similar spot when I roughed out my basement bathroom. I did all of the excavation and removed all of the old CI drain myself. Was then quoted $8k from a local plumber that runs ads all over the TV when all he needed to do was run some PVC for a toilet, vanity, and shower! That’s when I decided to watch lots of how to videos and eventually did it myself. Cost of PVC, fittings, fernco, and glue was less than $250!
Man you gotta get your kid down there with you pushing back on that pvc while you connect them! Looks awesome sir. FYI this is the best bathroom remodeling channel on youtube, ive seen them all. Dont change anything, you showing every step and doing it yourself is what sets you apart brother
Michael he don’t know a thing about venting, Note. Vent is wrong.
@@Blox_fruit_master1what is wrong w it?
Thanks for this. After we finish our kitchen we'll be tackling a basement bathroom and relocating a laundry hookup. Except we'll be tearing out an 80s era illegal bathroom instead of just blank concrete. This series is helping me visualize the project.
Are you planning on radiant heat in the bathroom floor?
@@kevinhornbuckle Considering it. Really want to keep costs lower on this project as it's not going to be a showcase. The basement will be hobby/DIY spaces, laundry, and storage. And I'm not a fan of resistive heat, and wonder about the performance of the type of products used on this channel when installed over a concrete slab. But they just seem cheap enough we might just go for it anyway.
great video truly, but one glaring thing to me is i believe that basement bathroom group is improperly wet vented. Plumbing to code can be very tricky so I don't fault you. I believe the way to correct that would be to have your stack wrap around the same wall as your clean out and 90 down towards your main drain that way you can catch your water closet, vanity and tub on the same line and then catch them further downstream on that 3 or 4 inch drain line. Of course this is just what I see and if you already passed inspection what im suggesting doesn't matter. Thank you for the content regardless it was a pleasure to watch!
20 years doing tiles, this video is my favorite. Thanks
Some plumbing rough-in situations require re-bar stakes and wire or strap to temporarily hold the pipes in place. Also, it is good to have some gravel available to support the pipes. Remember to take video or pics to document your layout for future trouble-shooting. Nice work. Thank you for making your videos.
Thanks!
Thank you 👍
Best plumbing DYI video I've seen. Really helpful and good explanations.
Hands down🙌🏾
Good work ! Very detailed video. Learned a lot. Thank you
Got a little bit of Plumber's Rot in what's now a 1.5" thick floor joist.
I've been really enjoying this bathroom series.
As a plumber myself I can confirm I absolutely hate digging 😂 and I don’t dry fit too much of pain to take everything apart
Love doing bathrooms, thinking about starting my channel soon just not sure how you find time for all or the editing.
Thank you for the hard work and explaining 😊
Are you allowed pex for water lines in UPC bathrooms like this beneath grade in basement?
Thanks again for great instruction!
Thank you for this great video , as always your video well thought & layout. Much appreciated!!!
WOW! WHAT NICE JOB! -- THANK YOU..
For a small house 900sf2 with one bath and laundry in the garage, can I tie all the vents in the attic to a single vent 3" and direct it out to the highest point of the side of the house so there will be no penetration through the roof since I am planning on installing metal roof?
I use a piece of 2x4 stud to tap the pipes.
I would like to see how you finish drain plumbing on shower/tub combo
Thanks for being that detailed
The venting has to go up out the roof? For a basement could it still be code to just go out the ground level wall similar to dryer outlet?
Studying for my IRC plumbing exam and this was extremely helpful.
Be careful when drilling through joists. He violated the code.
for a flat roof terrace design can the vent go out through wall to outside instead of the roof?
Yes but it needs to be a certain distance from a window and soffit so you're not venting sewer gas into an attic
I love you video you explain everything super good
Perhaps describing pipe sizes for each fixture, and lay out dimensions per code for each fixture from walls and from each fixture
Great video, if you would be putting in a washer , would you need to add an addition 2 inch pipe and vent. Can you tie into your existing set up .
Thank you for making this video.
Back in the 90’s I had a 2 family and had to redo the plumbing, the plumber I used built this magnificent copper drain tree in the bsmt. I’m just sad I didn’t see him putting that together it really was a work of art.
Question: How does having the horizontal wye plumb ensure it has the correct slope?
Yes dwv fittings have a preslope built in 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I understood that referred to 90-deg fittings not being actually 90-degree (to allow for pitch) but never heard of this with horizontal assemblies. I'm actually dealing with this issue right now. Can you provide more details?
@@stormbytes I can't imagine that's correct. That would mean that there are different wyes and 45s for left- and right hand turns. I turn the wye fitting slightly upwards and check the pitch with a spirit level. If the bubble touches one of the two lines in the middle it's just about right. Plumbing the face of the wye leaves you with no pitch whatsoever.
Excellent video .. I've done a few of these and it took me forever to find out the correct way to get it done right. Tying in the upstairs bath and fixtures def adds some complexity. Also yes here in VA they don't accept the ABS-PVC glue, you have to use a fernco or something like you did. You are a great instructor for practical real-world bathroom remodeling!
How did you locate the pipes underground??
How much should something like this rough plumbing cost me as a homeowner? Thanks for all your hard work!
LOL. "VERY SIMPLE AND STRAIGHT FORWARD" Ummm. I now know why my plumber charged 5k for the same project. That is super intense, and your experience really made it LOOK " VERY SIMPLE AND STRAIGHT FORWARD." Well done!
Why is a shower (vs vanity) considered two fixture units in regard to venting via one Y? Just for the volume of water coming through it or for some other reason? A word of caution for the DIYers; pay close attention to what Steve is talking about in regard to WET vs DRY venting! So much to unpack here so make sure to understand before proceeding! Another epic BRT video not seen on the tube yet. p.s. ten courage stars for the team, to make this unpredictable dig and have a nerve to keep all the lights and video equipment just to share it with us! 👍💪👊
Thanks 😊 and that’s a great question. I pretty it’s based off the water volume consumed. I’ll have to look up what that threshold is. For instance a toilet is 3 future units @ 1.6 gal, but 4 above that 👍
DFUs are based on Water Supply Fixture Units. Showers are 2 per shower head and lavs are 1.5
Appreciate all the hard work!
This helped with figuring out my lay out thanks
First time I saw a clay canalisation pipe in a modern house. Last one I saw was in archeology from a roman era villa foundation.
Awesome work!!
I really need help laying out my plumbing in a small bathroom off the garage. Its framed out but need some help routing or laying out the pipes.
My one negative comment: instead of cutting holes in the joists to run the drain line for the upstairs vanity, I would have run it within the joist bay to the wall and THEN UNDER the joists as that would presumably be within the new wall that will be framed in.
Sidenote: how do you propose framing that new wall around those pipes?
Cutting the edge of a joist that much is definitely not code. The highest stress is in the top and bottom of the joist so all the strength is gone now. Middle third is the way to go if you must drill through.
Man, that looks like a lot of work but you're flying through it. I did a basement bathroom reno last year and redid all the plumbing under the slab. It was my first time so I went slow and it took me a long time, but it turned out great. I probably spent twice as long as you to put together half the amount of piping. I can appreciate the work you put into this!
One thing though... you keep saying your toilet will be 12 inches from the framing, but isn't it supposed to be 12 inches from the finished wall? In other words, 12.5 inches from framing minus half inch for drywall? Not sure if you misspoke or what, but I hope that doesn't come back to bite you.
Yeah you can account for the wall covering in that. American standard toilets work well even at 11 1/2”
Awesome how you explain everything
I don't recommend beating on pipe with a metal hammer. A mallet would be better. It can crack the pipe and/or fittings that you won't notice until it's too late.
you could also use a no hub band to join the two different pipes
Can you connect 2 toilet and 2 showers and 2 sinks in 1 -3 inches abs pipe.
I believe u cant do that with 2 toilets on the same line, not enuff air will get in with a 3in
Typically 3rd toilet ties in on a vertical if still needed to be on 3”. On horizontal, after the 2nd u need to jump to 4”. This is why you see back to back bathrooms on 2nd floor coming down on one 3” line to the basement. It’s all about fixture units and size and orientation of pipe,
Thanks for the great video 👍
Personally I would have taken that ABS vent down the joist cavity towards the block wall. Then 90 down into the future stud wall and then do a horizontal run in that wall over to the left and down to the sink drain. That way you avoid having to put big holes in your joists weakening them.
NO KIDDING. Cringed when he did that. Or at least drill through the MIDDLE of the joist as it's obvious drilling that low wasn't necessary.
Then the stud wall should be in already so you can run the pipe through the stud work no? Running the ABS horizontal beforehand makes it impossible to put the stud wall in
@@marcusjuhasz3501 You can leave that section out until you install the studs. And put some temporary caps or duct tape on the open ends to keep the sewer gasses out. Until drywall goes on anything in the wall can be temporary.
@@RCLapCar Thats a good point, section by section
also though, then you'd have to call the plumber back for that last vent
I wonder if using two 45° when running 3/4" conduit helps the fishtape push through....
Another great tut
Me gustó mucho tu trabajo estuvo muy bien y cuánto se cobra por ese trabajo?
Might be dumb question, but what type of pvc pipe u using? Foam core, solid core? Just learned there’s differences between dwv pipes. All lowes and HD have is foam core and wanna know if thatll do for something similar to this.
Underground should always be schedule 40
Schedule 40 refers to sizing and wall thickness standards, not if it's foam core or solid core.@@Ghost87v
Solid core has red text on it (at least at Home Depot) or will say it is suitable for pressure applications or have a psi rating on it. You can use foam core underground, as is the case in this video.
@therealSIRBOOM is solid or foam core more quiet? Thx
Great video thanks for the knowledge
Getting into the plumbing trade. Any advice/tips
Buy a level, tape measure, 2 channel locks and show up on time
Don't drill through floor joists
Thank you for your videos.
The tee for the vanity is this 2 inch tee and 1 1/2 for
Just beautiful
really neat job, i like it!
Great video.
Awesome! so helpful
Thank for teaching
I did not see a sliding joint in the vertical stack between basement and upper floor, I think that is a Canadian code install requirement though my son's house did not have one and his ABS pipe shattered one Spring when the house settled, (or someone knocked it in the unfinished basement). It was definitely needed for us to put the system back together. I had to get the joint from a plumbing wholesaler and I think it was around $70 Canadian. In my Canadian house I also had to add a sliding joint on a vent stack because it was pulling apart, you don't want this happening buried in a wall where you might only notice the smell.
Never heard of something like that happen….guess there’s always a crazy chance that could happen…sorry you had an issue like that
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher if memory serves the ABS came through the cement floor without a foam wrap so if house moved separate from cement floor something has to give. I guess I would also suggest wrapping joints going through Cement floors to be wrapped with flexible foam or bubble wrap. I am helping my brother in law in Mexico whose house will have both a cement floor and a cement roof. The roof stack must have a solid pour around it or roof will leak I will be making sure to include flexible foam at the floor pass through and seriously considering a sliding joint or a rubber coupling to provide for some vertical movement, it does not help that the area experiences 7 point earthquakes every few years. At least it is PVC.
You are the Best one
is that a legal horizontal wet vent ? I thought you had to tied the stack before the bathroom?
I also thought the venting had to be in the top 1/3 of the drain line, roll the fittings off flat allows for this.
really nice video❤❤
Thank you sooo much.
if the shower counts as 2 units and you can vent 4 then with the toilet that would be all 4 units wouldn't it?
I have ALMOST an identical job coming up in my basement !
I’m sorry 😆 just a bit over 125 hours of work for entire bathroom 👍
I probably watched this like 10 times. I still have no idea what he just did here, and zero confidence I can do this myself. I feel very lost.
This share vent looks good to me. However, in California, the inspector requires a separate vent on each fixture, which is unnecessary.
I have struggled with separating dry fitted pipes. I end up breaking several of my fittings and I don't know how to prevent this.
Yeah it’s painful since things cost so much now…average fitting is $30..
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I've considered using butter on my fittings to make it easier to remove but then it's a mess to clean up!
Dawn soap and water 💦 put it in a Home Depot spray bottle shake well spray your connections when test fitting comes off easy! Thank me later 😊
@@xxxdpgxxxx1389 great tip
This gold my man ty
That’s not how you horizontal wet vent. The toilet would need to be first with wye branch shower/lav coming in after so air can be pulled in. Your toilet is straight up not vented.
You can't use venting fittings below the Is blood rim of any fixture, It has to be a minimum of 6 inches above the flood rium, All the fittings for the upstairs need to be drainage fittings,
You should put the shower drain right on the money if someone down the road wants to change to a I piece shower they won’t have to go deep underground to re rough it
thanks
You had a perfect opportunity to vent the toilet better and didn’t
I know you are trying to help people, so I appreciate that, but if you don’t show how to do it properly, you are only setting them up for failure.
I see some, who are obviously plumbers, have already commented on some of the improper venting, but there are several other improper venting and drain issues that weren’t mentioned. Who ties a vent into the wet portion of a 3” stack? Not a plumber. That’s just one thing, but there are many others. Also, somebody already mentioned reaming and chamfering the plastic pipe. This is crucial for a proper solvent welded joint, plus, the chamfer makes it easier for rookies to dry-fit their system because it will allow the dry pipe to seat completely and it will go into the hub without having to whack it with a hammer, and it will pull back apart much easier. I think if this was inspected, there would be a follow-up video showing you tearing everything out, and I mean everything, then you trying to do it the way it is supposed to be done. There is no code where this “system” would pass inspection.
There is a reason plumbing is a specialized trade. We spend years learning our trade so we can provide our customers with a proper, well-functioning plumbing system. We make money fixing problems caused by people doing their own thing and covering it up with drywall and tile.
I appreciate you watching and commenting, but if you are not going to watch the full video it’s not really a well informed statement. It’s not a wet vent there. It’s vent that goes straight to roof. And chamfering piping is something I think is nice to do of course 👍 much respect to all the master plumbers out there 👍 there’s a lot more for me to learn I agree
That shower trap is right at the main drain line level. That leg will get backup from the main drain leg and will be set up for repeat problems down the road. Roll the branch fittings so the branch lines have substantial reduction of backup from surges of flow.
A wet that needs to be increased by one size, Is shower drain needs to be a 2 inch, If a lab is tying into it it also has to be a 2 inch to increase it by one size for a wet vent
I’ve never used hammer to bang PVC fittings
Great video.Tough job. Plumbers deserve a good pay!
how do you repair the vapor barrier after you cut into the floor ?
confused why did the basement bathroom have to connect to the first floor bathroom? nvm thanks for explaining at the end
You really need to review your wet venting layout. Wet venting is way more restrictive than you are showing. You have most of the correct fittings, but the positioning is wrong. You also have exceeded the fixture units on the wet vent.
There is also a limit on how long a pipe can be without a fixture on it- think about your clean out length.
With that existing 3 “” copper vent , it would have been just as easy to vent each fixture.
Please folks that are seeing this-- there are a few problems with this system.
Remember to get your permits and inspections and use the code that applies to your jurisdiction.
If you was doing plumbing in NYcity you would fell inspection real easy
Good to know. Chicago as well 👍
I throw concrete around the clay pipe/fernco connection cause im never going to service that thing ever again
Hm hmm, my wishful thinking seems to be coming through. Unfortunately you hade to do all that extra work and take the roman-tercota plumbing out but I’ll enjoy the video fo’sho. 💪👊
Using hammers on pvc is borderline criminal. Also, you're supposed to pressfit the stubs together by hand for 30seconds when you're gluing them.
I can fire him on the spot!
why not use heavy rubber mallet instead of the hard hammer
You can’t cut that far out of center of the floor joist definitely would fail inspection must be with the second third of the boards hight
I spoke before you explained more of what you were doing, The lens on the camera makes your shower drain look like inch and a half,
That’s one thing I hate dryfitting is a waste of time as long as u know what your doing
Excavation and rough in for a bathroom of 6 fixtures units 5k labor and the rest is parts and history+ plus an extra $30 for that 4in wye😅
First time I’ve ever seen clay tile in a home for sewer. Only clay in the house is for the storm around here.
So now I understand windows 95 Screensaver
24:57 those poor joists
Yeah poor decision on my part…
Walls being framed below
the toilet can not vent from the Face sink that wrong the toilet need's a separate vent also the wet vent is for the shower and the Face sink ( so the shower venting off the Face sink pipe so that's a wet vent) Then u revent so u put the Face sink vent with the toilet vent and go out with one vent pipe
so why u want to drop the pipe lower for the vanity and u could Just make it work by putting the pipe the correct height
Really don't like the idea of cutting/drilling into joists to pass drain plumbing.
Then don’t do it 👍
I don't. I prefer sound over chewed up framing. Especially when there's water in the area. Try it sometime.@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher
You got it 👍@@stormbytes
so why you were working on this all the plumbing system was shut off