No links of sorts- but the wheels, tensioner and guide wheels came from Linn Lumber in the US, the steel came from Metal Supermarket, engine came from Princess Auto as did the belts, chains, and control cables- most of the little bits from Amazon or EBay. I was certainly a fun project! Thanks for watching, All the best, Jeff.
Nice build! Gathering material for my build now. I plan on power feed as well. What size (width) are cross members between bed rails. What are dimensions of side rails? Again very nice!!!
Thanks! It’s 48” between the rails, and the bunks are 30” apart from each other. I can mill a 36” long up to 16’4” long. The side rails that the carriage runs on is simply 2” angle iron, 3/8” thick. The rest of the frame is 2x4”x3/16” wall. I wouldn’t go any lighter, the 3/16” lets me drill and tap, which is nice.
I would like to ask if you would be able to send me a link or at the least -model - manufacture or dimensions of the motors you have purchased that you used on your sawmill as my first attempt at purchasing the motor I ended up getting one that was so small I immediately shipped it back knowing that it would not work basically it fit in the palm of my hand all of these sawmill modification and builds are ingenious low-cost and look to be quite functional I think they are a great idea I thank you for your time and help in this matter have a good day
I bought my electric motors from KK motors in BC. They also build sawmills and know exactly what you’re looking for. Make sure you get a matched speed controller too. Thanks for watching! Jeff
That certainly wasn’t my intent. The real reason I built it instead of buying one was availability, no manufacturer had what I wanted in stock and being far too impatient for my own good, I went on a spending spree and assembled the bits here. If we were closer, I’d offer to come give you a hand!
Hi Larry, I have a chain drive with a 40a DC speed controller on a 25-1 12v motor. It has plenty of power for even super large hard wood. Same power slow or fast. The motor and controller are from KK Motors in BC.
With the price of steel is it cheaper to build or buy a mill Looks like you have done a outstanding job I’m impressed and I don’t impress easily did you have plan you could share
The price of steel has at least doubled since I built this mill. The unfortunate part is that the mill manufacturers are also having to pay more for steel. It seems the Chinese made mills are still cheaper when available. I’m into my mill for around $8k, if I have to buy the same mill it would have cost me north of $20k. Not including my own labour and the tools and equipment I already own, I’d still build over buy anyway. Thanks for watching! All the best, Jeff
I thought that looked like a LInn.. I bought the sawframe also.. solid design.. might need another bracket to support the belt guard it tends to vibrate /bounce a bit more than I’d like... very nice build.
I drilled and tapped another hole for a 3rd bracket into the back of the channel iron that the motor mount is made up of, it stiffens it up considerably.
Love your video series! I have built the 1900 Linn sawmill from scratch, and would love to add the power carriage feed. Are you running 12V to a 24 V wheelchair motor? Is your feed motor battery being charged from the gas engine? Any other details would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there! I have a 12v ‘utility’ motor with a 25-1 gear reduction. It’s perfect. Slows down to a crawl for the big stuff and turn up the speed for the return is just about as fast as I can walk I’m using a 40 amp DC controller, tons of them on amazon for less than $50... the motor was $130 Canadian dollars. I have a 16 tooth sprocket on the motor, I figure if it were to slow or fast I could change it accordingly, but for a home run first swing at bat!
Wow, this is exactly what I'm parting together to build! I would love to get a item/part number for the kit you got from glen Lumber if its available (roughly 3:04 in the video). Any chance you have a part list for this complete build? I'd love to get a copy. Incredible thankful for your help if you have the time.
Thanks for watching, most of the parts list came from my head as I engineered it on the fly… the basic saw frame kit has a good list on their website. LinnLumber.com. All the best, Jeff
@@thelogfather5002 I've watched all your vids several time in the last 2 days or so. Very helpful! I'll keep you updated , my build is about to get underway this week if this goes well. Great build and I hope to not disappoint you with my clone job.
@@landscaping253llc4 zero complaints from me! I couldn’t be happier with how it works, I’ve milled thousands of board feet with mine, it’s my retirement job!
Hi John, most of those plans are still in my head! The sawframe plans are a variation of Linn Lumber from Oregon. He sells them very reasonable. Thanks for watching, Jeff
I built one you can see it on my FB page the electric company dropped a 33" white pine and I made a deal with the home owner for it as it fell into his property I built the mill just to cut the log have to tweak it a bit but it works well. I am working on a new design that I will be putting together this winter for a friend whole different concept design I have been a welder for years. Nice mill like the automation you did a great job!!
Looks awesome! Now that its running, how much faster do you reckon it is compared to your chainsaw mill? Obviously this thing can cut bigger logs much faster, but including setup time and unloading/stacking time, is it any faster when cutting smaller logs? (The Logs I cut are rarely over 15" in diameter.) Do you see any scenario where you have both, the chainsaw mill and the bandsaw mill, working side by side to improve one person's productivity?
I used to be able to cut about 200bd/ft per hour if everything went well, the right logs, etc... so far my bandsaw mill is capable of just under 400, and I’m still learning. I suspect I’ll get better. Long answer to say twice as much wood, and half as much work. :)
It had a hard stop, the controller will shut the power off to the motor at above 20amps? I think... I’ve tested it, there’s no way it can come off the rails. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Jeff
I like the name and the contrasting color scheme. Everybody and their grandfather does orange and black, nice to see something different. Looks good. Hope you find a better gear for the lift. Can't wait to see some fruit-woods, nut-woods, and woods with really good figuring being cut on this mill. Of course plenty of evergreens and oak and such as well. See you on the next video.
@@thelogfather5002 The colors look good together. Yeah, I have not seen a VW truck around here (Kentucky, USA) for a long while. I always liked them. The access of having the sides drop as well as the rear is brilliant. I cant figure out why no other manufacturers ever picked up on that genius.
Hi Mark, the small sprockets are 14 tooth and the rear large one in 46 teeth, the front large sprocket is 60. All #40 chain and 3/4" shafts and bearings. It'll lift the 300+ pound saw head with zero effort at all. I have a brake band with a spring to keep it from creeping down while sawing. It works great. Linn Lumber uses ACME screws, it might be easier, but not cheaper.
Just spit balling but... If you disconnected the chain used to adjust the blade hight from the frame, not the head. Run a piece of 1" or larger round stock from side to side over the top bar. Run the chains over the round stock and attach them to a 5x5"' billet bar, length = balanced to the head. You could raise and lower the head with an arthritic pinky finger or a very small motor.
@@thelogfather5002 If you do this you will need to weld the sprockets to the round stock. If not you will have tilting issues. You can weld a small piece of pipe on the upper beams for the round stock to turn in. But the sprockets and round stock must turn as one.
I have a few bearing idlers left over from the build, I had planned to use on in the centre of the head to run a chain over the stationary frame to a counter weight that can help slow the decent of the head. It raises easy, but going down, it’s easy to miss the measure. A counter weight will help for sure.
@@thelogfather5002 I've seen garage door type springs used to counterbalance. Maybe a spring setup from a semi trailer or a moving van door? Just a thought
Not hydraulic, but electric. Motors are cheap wheel chain motors and speed controllers from a place called KK motors in BC. I’m into this build about $8000... Canadian dollars. Thanks for watching! All the best, Jeff.
Is there a reason why you didn't run ACME rods for lifting the head as Linn does? No need for a break or counter ballance and motor would run it easy with weight not as much a factor on rotational force to turn the rods.
Hi Thanks for watching, It was so simple to use the chain and sprockets, plus it's cheap! The main reason is the fact that I wanted to keep it controlled for counting the turns for consistent 1" drops... That and the Acme screws I looked for you wasn't available due to COVID...
@@thelogfather5002 Thanks Jeff! All valid reasons. I'm adding the lift kit with rods + clutch to my order for the built head from Linn. Should get me down the road toward a $5k mill. Looking at a 14-16hp Kohler for power. I think I will be able to tune the crank size for 1" lift per rotation. I'll probably add power feed and power lift eventually and maybe a log turner. How many hours would you guess the build took?
Probably about 60 I’d say. It includes some re-engineering because I made my frame wider than Linns plan. But it was time we’ll spent. I also drilled and tapped a lot of holes that would have been way quicker if I just welded it. But I want med it so I could take it apart to repair later if need. The 22 Honda is plenty. Probably could get away with less if you’re not milling too large of hardwood
@@thelogfather5002 Thanks Jeff! This is really good feedback. I think the tapping and bolting is a good plan. Your whole build really is fantastic. I hope mine looks that good when done. I looked up No.40 chain and it is relatively inexpensive. Less than $100 should do a complete hand crank auto feed. I haven't priced motors for that. What is the advantage of the extra width of the frame? If the cut width can handle a 36" log max, why widen the rails? I hear more HP is better for motors, but a Carroll Stream 16hp is $400 which is quite a savings to get started on.
The main reason I bolted it is so I can replace it later if need be. But I’ve sawed thousands of board feet and zero signs of wear. Thanks for watching! Jeff and Leslie.
Thanks for the kind words! Not quite in Winnipeg... a little further east, an hour south of Halifax on Nova Scotia’s beautiful south shore. You’re more than welcome to come check it out though!
I watched all the videos. Great build. Peace
looks very nice and i love kubota orange cant wait to see more videos
Kubota orange and VW Medium Blue, like both of my old trucks. :)
Nice mill very nice job I would be interested tp see more on your tension system
I’ll make a few more videos I’m sure of it in action. One of them with show a blade change I’ll see to it. Thanks for the kind words!
@@thelogfather5002 Looking forward to them
I just posted a video explaining the tensioner. :)
Nice mill 👍
Watched the series very impressive
Thanks man! :)
simply awesome!
Do you have links for all the parts that couldn't be made? This looks so professional in the build. The paint put it right over the top.
No links of sorts- but the wheels, tensioner and guide wheels came from Linn Lumber in the US, the steel came from Metal Supermarket, engine came from Princess Auto as did the belts, chains, and control cables- most of the little bits from Amazon or EBay. I was certainly a fun project! Thanks for watching, All the best, Jeff.
Be sure to make some video's milling logs. I love watching people work.
For sure!
Nice build! Gathering material for my build now. I plan on power feed as well. What size (width) are cross members between bed rails. What are dimensions of side rails? Again very nice!!!
Thanks! It’s 48” between the rails, and the bunks are 30” apart from each other. I can mill a 36” long up to 16’4” long. The side rails that the carriage runs on is simply 2” angle iron, 3/8” thick. The rest of the frame is 2x4”x3/16” wall. I wouldn’t go any lighter, the 3/16” lets me drill and tap, which is nice.
Thanks. I have a Linn head on order and will start building the bed off these measures.
I would like to ask if you would be able to send me a link or at the least -model - manufacture or dimensions of the motors you have purchased that you used on your sawmill as my first attempt at purchasing the motor I ended up getting one that was so small I immediately shipped it back knowing that it would not work basically it fit in the palm of my hand all of these sawmill modification and builds are ingenious low-cost and look to be quite functional I think they are a great idea I thank you for your time and help in this matter have a good day
I bought my electric motors from KK motors in BC. They also build sawmills and know exactly what you’re looking for. Make sure you get a matched speed controller too. Thanks for watching!
Jeff
Jeff this is amazing, very well done. Making me look bad bud.
That certainly wasn’t my intent. The real reason I built it instead of buying one was availability, no manufacturer had what I wanted in stock and being far too impatient for my own good, I went on a spending spree and assembled the bits here. If we were closer, I’d offer to come give you a hand!
Cost comparison was probably fairly close between Jim's purchased one and this built one. Only this built one has a few more features.
What kind of feed or drive system are you using for pulling the machine through the logs..nice build
Hi Larry, I have a chain drive with a 40a DC speed controller on a 25-1 12v motor. It has plenty of power for even super large hard wood. Same power slow or fast. The motor and controller are from KK Motors in BC.
With the price of steel is it cheaper to build or buy a mill Looks like you have done a outstanding job I’m impressed and I don’t impress easily did you have plan you could share
The price of steel has at least doubled since I built this mill. The unfortunate part is that the mill manufacturers are also having to pay more for steel. It seems the Chinese made mills are still cheaper when available. I’m into my mill for around $8k, if I have to buy the same mill it would have cost me north of $20k. Not including my own labour and the tools and equipment I already own, I’d still build over buy anyway. Thanks for watching! All the best, Jeff
very nice job
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I thought that looked like a LInn.. I bought the sawframe also.. solid design.. might need another bracket to support the belt guard it tends to vibrate /bounce a bit more than I’d like... very nice build.
I drilled and tapped another hole for a 3rd bracket into the back of the channel iron that the motor mount is made up of, it stiffens it up considerably.
Love your video series! I have built the 1900 Linn sawmill from scratch, and would love to add the power carriage feed. Are you running 12V to a 24 V wheelchair motor? Is your feed motor battery being charged from the gas engine? Any other details would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there! I have a 12v ‘utility’ motor with a 25-1 gear reduction. It’s perfect. Slows down to a crawl for the big stuff and turn up the speed for the return is just about as fast as I can walk I’m using a 40 amp DC controller, tons of them on amazon for less than $50... the motor was $130 Canadian dollars.
I have a 16 tooth sprocket on the motor, I figure if it were to slow or fast I could change it accordingly, but for a home run first swing at bat!
@@thelogfather5002 Great thanks Jeff! #50 chain ?
#40 is plenty strong.
Wow, this is exactly what I'm parting together to build! I would love to get a item/part number for the kit you got from glen Lumber if its available
(roughly 3:04 in the video). Any chance you have a part list for this complete build? I'd love to get a copy. Incredible thankful for your help if you have the time.
Thanks for watching, most of the parts list came from my head as I engineered it on the fly… the basic saw frame kit has a good list on their website. LinnLumber.com.
All the best, Jeff
@@thelogfather5002 I've watched all your vids several time in the last 2 days or so. Very helpful! I'll keep you updated , my build is about to get underway this week if this goes well. Great build and I hope to not disappoint you with my clone job.
@@landscaping253llc4 zero complaints from me! I couldn’t be happier with how it works, I’ve milled thousands of board feet with mine, it’s my retirement job!
Nice build, exactly the size I would like, do you sell plans? John in Greenville, Maine
Hi John, most of those plans are still in my head! The sawframe plans are a variation of Linn Lumber from Oregon. He sells them very reasonable.
Thanks for watching, Jeff
I built one you can see it on my FB page the electric company dropped a 33" white pine and I made a deal with the home owner for it as it fell into his property I built the mill just to cut the log have to tweak it a bit but it works well. I am working on a new design that I will be putting together this winter for a friend whole different concept design I have been a welder for years. Nice mill like the automation you did a great job!!
Thanks for the kind words. It turned out well.
Wow , that is a nice one ..... sgt rod
Thanks Sgt! It’s been a fun project!
Looks awesome!
Now that its running, how much faster do you reckon it is compared to your chainsaw mill?
Obviously this thing can cut bigger logs much faster, but including setup time and unloading/stacking time, is it any faster when cutting smaller logs? (The Logs I cut are rarely over 15" in diameter.)
Do you see any scenario where you have both, the chainsaw mill and the bandsaw mill, working side by side to improve one person's productivity?
I used to be able to cut about 200bd/ft per hour if everything went well, the right logs, etc... so far my bandsaw mill is capable of just under 400, and I’m still learning. I suspect I’ll get better. Long answer to say twice as much wood, and half as much work. :)
Very nice build , you should have a hard stop in case the limit switch fails , and they will fail eventually
It had a hard stop, the controller will shut the power off to the motor at above 20amps? I think... I’ve tested it, there’s no way it can come off the rails. Thanks for watching!
Cheers, Jeff
@@thelogfather5002 that’s why I mentioned it , good stuff , you must be a maintenance person
A mechanic, 35 years now. Time for something different!
Wow Jeff great engine or Bandsawmill.great construction.greetings.HCS
It has the right amount of power, and it's very quiet. Thanks for the kind words. :) Jeff
Thank you very much i appreciate that
Any time
replace you power up and down with a starter motor ie ( old ford) .pull the starter drive off and get a small sproket to fit the shaft
I’ve got a 50-1 motor, I’ve got the same speed controller as my feed. I’ll install it this winter. Thanks again for watching! Jeff
I like the name and the contrasting color scheme. Everybody and their grandfather does orange and black, nice to see something different. Looks good. Hope you find a better gear for the lift. Can't wait to see some fruit-woods, nut-woods, and woods with really good figuring being cut on this mill. Of course plenty of evergreens and oak and such as well. See you on the next video.
The blue is the same colour as my old VW trucks, Medium Blue. My favourite colour, and I’ve got lots of it. The orange is Kubota orange
@@thelogfather5002
The colors look good together. Yeah, I have not seen a VW truck around here (Kentucky, USA) for a long while. I always liked them. The access of having the sides drop as well as the rear is brilliant. I cant figure out why no other manufacturers ever picked up on that genius.
Good looking mill can you send me sprocket sizes for lift
Hi Mark, the small sprockets are 14 tooth and the rear large one in 46 teeth, the front large sprocket is 60. All #40 chain and 3/4" shafts and bearings. It'll lift the 300+ pound saw head with zero effort at all. I have a brake band with a spring to keep it from creeping down while sawing. It works great. Linn Lumber uses ACME screws, it might be easier, but not cheaper.
@@thelogfather5002
thank you I don’t like to reinvent the wheel
Just spit balling but... If you disconnected the chain used to adjust the blade hight from the frame, not the head. Run a piece of 1" or larger round stock from side to side over the top bar. Run the chains over the round stock and attach them to a 5x5"' billet bar, length = balanced to the head. You could raise and lower the head with an arthritic pinky finger or a very small motor.
Great idea! A counter balance would work way better, thanks. You just might see that in an upcoming video. Cheers, Jeff
@@thelogfather5002 If you do this you will need to weld the sprockets to the round stock. If not you will have tilting issues. You can weld a small piece of pipe on the upper beams for the round stock to turn in. But the sprockets and round stock must turn as one.
I have a few bearing idlers left over from the build, I had planned to use on in the centre of the head to run a chain over the stationary frame to a counter weight that can help slow the decent of the head. It raises easy, but going down, it’s easy to miss the measure. A counter weight will help for sure.
@@thelogfather5002 I've seen garage door type springs used to counterbalance. Maybe a spring setup from a semi trailer or a moving van door? Just a thought
I love it, do you have any plans for your machine?
Just mill some lumber... not for sale if that’s what you mean. :)
I think he meant "blue prints" so he can build one himself
I used plans from Linn for the saw head, the rest is out of my head...
This is the most insane build ive seen yet, everything looks hydraulically controlled. Do you have an overall cost for the entire setup?
Not hydraulic, but electric. Motors are cheap wheel chain motors and speed controllers from a place called KK motors in BC. I’m into this build about $8000... Canadian dollars. Thanks for watching! All the best, Jeff.
Looks nice wish I had one
It’s a great tool for sure.
Is there a reason why you didn't run ACME rods for lifting the head as Linn does? No need for a break or counter ballance and motor would run it easy with weight not as much a factor on rotational force to turn the rods.
Hi Thanks for watching, It was so simple to use the chain and sprockets, plus it's cheap! The main reason is the fact that I wanted to keep it controlled for counting the turns for consistent 1" drops... That and the Acme screws I looked for you wasn't available due to COVID...
@@thelogfather5002 Thanks Jeff! All valid reasons. I'm adding the lift kit with rods + clutch to my order for the built head from Linn. Should get me down the road toward a $5k mill. Looking at a 14-16hp Kohler for power. I think I will be able to tune the crank size for 1" lift per rotation. I'll probably add power feed and power lift eventually and maybe a log turner. How many hours would you guess the build took?
Probably about 60 I’d say. It includes some re-engineering because I made my frame wider than Linns plan. But it was time we’ll spent. I also drilled and tapped a lot of holes that would have been way quicker if I just welded it. But I want med it so I could take it apart to repair later if need. The 22 Honda is plenty. Probably could get away with less if you’re not milling too large of hardwood
@@thelogfather5002 Thanks Jeff! This is really good feedback. I think the tapping and bolting is a good plan. Your whole build really is fantastic. I hope mine looks that good when done. I looked up No.40 chain and it is relatively inexpensive. Less than $100 should do a complete hand crank auto feed. I haven't priced motors for that. What is the advantage of the extra width of the frame? If the cut width can handle a 36" log max, why widen the rails? I hear more HP is better for motors, but a Carroll Stream 16hp is $400 which is quite a savings to get started on.
Ya....bolting the one piece track on is the way to go. I made the mistake of welding mine on in sections. I can feel the variations.
The main reason I bolted it is so I can replace it later if need be. But I’ve sawed thousands of board feet and zero signs of wear.
Thanks for watching! Jeff and Leslie.
@@thelogfather5002 ya.....wearing those down would take 1000 years
@@aaronymousunlimited2661 more like some joker like me hitting them with the tractor! Lol😜
@@thelogfather5002 hear ya. I drink too.😁
Jeff this is a fantastic build, well done! You wouldn't happen to be in Winnipeg would you? I'd love to come see it
Thanks for the kind words! Not quite in Winnipeg... a little further east, an hour south of Halifax on Nova Scotia’s beautiful south shore. You’re more than welcome to come check it out though!
Beautiful build. We posted this video and the six previous ones on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Thanks for noticing me! It was a fun project for sure.
thats a good idea transport mode i dont have that yet
Important or the head will roll beyond the tipping point and roll off the track. Easy to do too.
Hear about your channel from the Harnishs
They’re not far from here, great folks! Thanks for watching.
looks like mine made in Canada
I’m in Nova Scotia, very Canadian
Its a very Chaos Video.
I’ve been working on making better videos in later years.