Hi, I'll look for the update, but did you eventually put a carrot in with the worms and oats? I think they need it for their water source - carrots/veggies/potatoes.....but carrots I've learned are ideal because they don't mold as fast as the other options.
Old Video, but for anyone new checking this out the one thing he did wrong (and it's hard to blame him) is he didn't Gut-load/Re-hydrate his worms for At Least a week before isolating them...
Great video! I have a few comments, I hope you don't mind... 1: I notice you're doing this on the carpet, and I *think* I heard a child in the background - be careful with the plastic swarf as it can be really sharp and it sticks to carpet (it sorta screws itself in - don't ask me how I know this...), so I'd strongly suggest next time cut open a garbage bag and make yourself a plastic drop-sheet. 2: The screen you're using is fine for worms, but be careful if you ever want to use it for crickets, they'll eat right through the fibreglass screen (I use aluminium screen for everything just so I can move my insects from tub to tub as needed and don't have to worry about them eating through it). 3: Using hot glue to glue the screen to the plastic is fine, for a short while, but it can tend to get brittle, the best way to do it is to use a soldering iron (but, to be honest, I don't think that would work on the fibreglass screen). If you decide to use aluminium screen at any stage, just lay the screen where you want it and run the solderer over the edge (where you want the join). It melts the plastic and it reforms around the screen, trapping it in place permanently. It works really well. If you have a soldering iron with a spade bit, use that, it works better than the round bit (spade bit is like a flat screwdriver, so it gives you a thicker line). 4: The fastest, and easiest, way to de-burr the edges of straight cuts is to use the back of the utility knife, but don't cut yourself because the sharp edge will be facing up (again, don't ask how I know). 5: Keep in mind that the beetles climb, particularly with short-walled drawers. You may want to also put screen on the top of the beetle drawer, it may save you chasing beetles down the track :) (Although I've seen a lot of these made online without screen tops!) I admit, I'm not sure whether fluon will stop these beetles climbing, but I must find out sometime! lol 6: I've read that you should only pupate the worms once they get over 5cm long, I've actually drawn a scale on the side of the divided tub I use, but yours already has one on it, which is awesome. Under that and they're apparently not ready yet and need to be fed up (you may risk them dying because they aren't ready and have no food in the tub). So, I'll be really interested to know whether yours pupate, because that way maybe we won't have to grow them up for so long before pupating them... I'm new to breeding Superworms, currently only breeding crickets and wood-roaches (for reptile/amphibian food). I do, however, have a friend who's been breeding Superworms (hence the beetle knowledge ;) ) All the other advice is from making tubs for crickets/woodies. I've just started with the SWs and have a tub of them eating lots and one trial lot in a divided tub (I have only used 15-hole tubs because I had a whole stack of them in my 'unused craft boxes' stuff! lol). (I've only put one tub in to pupate because I watched another video which said you should always use round containers to pupate because you get a few deaths in square ones - I'm using square ones because a: that's what I had, and, b: I've seen quite a few videos of people using those.) I watched your video mainly to see how it would work with the smaller drawers than I've seen used before as I have one of these previously used for stationary. I was wondering whether I could use it, or had to go buy a big set of drawers! I'll look forward to seeing updates on your system in the future! :)
asyoz Thanks for the advice! That must have taken you awhile to type out. I have had a few escapes so I am working on a solution for that. I have had a few worm deaths, but I’m getting beetles too.
No worries, it did take a while, but, as I'm unable to create videos to upload I'm happy to help those who can, if I'm able. Knowledge should always be shared! :) Great to hear you're getting beetles!!! Would you know roughly what percentage you had make it to beetle stage?
I have isolated a total of 26 worms. I now have 8 beetles. A total of 7 have died. 11 are left. About 4 are in the pupa stage. 2 are in the "C" shape. The rest are still worms.
Thanks for that info. I just checked mine, only 2 days since I put them into the isolation tub and all still alive, a couple starting to look c-ish. Here's hoping :)
Hi, I'll look for the update, but did you eventually put a carrot in with the worms and oats? I think they need it for their water source - carrots/veggies/potatoes.....but carrots I've learned are ideal because they don't mold as fast as the other options.
I do give them carrots.
Old Video, but for anyone new checking this out the one thing he did wrong (and it's hard to blame him) is he didn't Gut-load/Re-hydrate his worms for At Least a week before isolating them...
really excited to see how this comes along!
I'll be doing an update a months or so. :)
Great video!
I have a few comments, I hope you don't mind...
1: I notice you're doing this on the carpet, and I *think* I heard a child in the background - be careful with the plastic swarf as it can be really sharp and it sticks to carpet (it sorta screws itself in - don't ask me how I know this...), so I'd strongly suggest next time cut open a garbage bag and make yourself a plastic drop-sheet.
2: The screen you're using is fine for worms, but be careful if you ever want to use it for crickets, they'll eat right through the fibreglass screen (I use aluminium screen for everything just so I can move my insects from tub to tub as needed and don't have to worry about them eating through it).
3: Using hot glue to glue the screen to the plastic is fine, for a short while, but it can tend to get brittle, the best way to do it is to use a soldering iron (but, to be honest, I don't think that would work on the fibreglass screen). If you decide to use aluminium screen at any stage, just lay the screen where you want it and run the solderer over the edge (where you want the join). It melts the plastic and it reforms around the screen, trapping it in place permanently. It works really well. If you have a soldering iron with a spade bit, use that, it works better than the round bit (spade bit is like a flat screwdriver, so it gives you a thicker line).
4: The fastest, and easiest, way to de-burr the edges of straight cuts is to use the back of the utility knife, but don't cut yourself because the sharp edge will be facing up (again, don't ask how I know).
5: Keep in mind that the beetles climb, particularly with short-walled drawers. You may want to also put screen on the top of the beetle drawer, it may save you chasing beetles down the track :) (Although I've seen a lot of these made online without screen tops!) I admit, I'm not sure whether fluon will stop these beetles climbing, but I must find out sometime! lol
6: I've read that you should only pupate the worms once they get over 5cm long, I've actually drawn a scale on the side of the divided tub I use, but yours already has one on it, which is awesome. Under that and they're apparently not ready yet and need to be fed up (you may risk them dying because they aren't ready and have no food in the tub). So, I'll be really interested to know whether yours pupate, because that way maybe we won't have to grow them up for so long before pupating them...
I'm new to breeding Superworms, currently only breeding crickets and wood-roaches (for reptile/amphibian food). I do, however, have a friend who's been breeding Superworms (hence the beetle knowledge ;) ) All the other advice is from making tubs for crickets/woodies.
I've just started with the SWs and have a tub of them eating lots and one trial lot in a divided tub (I have only used 15-hole tubs because I had a whole stack of them in my 'unused craft boxes' stuff! lol). (I've only put one tub in to pupate because I watched another video which said you should always use round containers to pupate because you get a few deaths in square ones - I'm using square ones because a: that's what I had, and, b: I've seen quite a few videos of people using those.)
I watched your video mainly to see how it would work with the smaller drawers than I've seen used before as I have one of these previously used for stationary. I was wondering whether I could use it, or had to go buy a big set of drawers!
I'll look forward to seeing updates on your system in the future! :)
asyoz Thanks for the advice! That must have taken you awhile to type out. I have had a few escapes so I am working on a solution for that. I have had a few worm deaths, but I’m getting beetles too.
No worries, it did take a while, but, as I'm unable to create videos to upload I'm happy to help those who can, if I'm able. Knowledge should always be shared! :)
Great to hear you're getting beetles!!!
Would you know roughly what percentage you had make it to beetle stage?
I have isolated a total of 26 worms. I now have 8 beetles. A total of 7 have died. 11 are left. About 4 are in the pupa stage. 2 are in the "C" shape. The rest are still worms.
Thanks for that info. I just checked mine, only 2 days since I put them into the isolation tub and all still alive, a couple starting to look c-ish. Here's hoping :)
What was the piano song?
That intro was epic! Was it first take?
Probably 5-8 takes! haha!
@@tarantulasam7609 those scissors seamed like they had the routine down😂
I always want to get a t when I watch your videos. Aaaaaaah.
Can't wait to find out if this works. Tyfs God bless you
Btw, you have a gorgeous c versicolor 💯🤗
do do doo do bump baa
Night owl
Night owl