Replacing Your Gas Furnace Is Easier Than You'd Think.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
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⚠️ Disclaimer:
This video is for educational purposes. Any and all HVAC repair work is done at your own risk. The DIY HVAC Guy channel is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information.
00:00 Introduction
00:30 Shutting off the natural gas
01:40 Shutting off the electricity
03:21 Removing gas line
04:50 Installing new gas valve
08:04 Removing electrical box
12:10 Disconnecting return plenum
14:17 Disconnecting supply plenum
17:24 Removing old furnace
20:21 Cutting hole in furnace for return air
22:47 Installing new gas line
28:00 New electrical installation
31:29 Ductwork transition
41:21 Main power and electrical switch
46:08 Reinstalling thermostat wires
48:43 Checking gas pressure
52:07 Checking static pressure
56:16 Checking temp rise
I have seen all of your furnace videos and this is the best install so far. I like that you are growing and getting better at sheet metal. I have been a service tech for some time now and would not install my own ac and furnace because I’m too much about aesthetics but I will do installs on the side.
Thanks so much for the feedback! Always trying to improve and I’m excited for the next one! Cheers bro
Won’t install your own equipment because of…wow, I just don’t see the logic in that, but whatever…
Been 15 years since I last installed my furnace and AC unit. Back then it was difficult to even buy a furnace or ac unit because market was locked up. Now it’s way easier to get. Just bought new setup and was all dropped off in driveway 3 days later. It does take a day to install. A professional with correct tools, I’m sure can do it in a afternoon. But for a days work I save thousands. Best 1 day job that pays well!
Don't forget to ground the metal j boxes. You will take your incoming ground wire and connect it to the metal box, then tie it back into the outgoing line.
I replaced mine about 2 years ago. I've never done it before. It took about 12 hours total time and I saved an absolute crapload of money and did a better job than most professional installers. I did it in early October so there was no conflict with heating or air conditioning. I swapped out an old roof vented 80% efficient piece of junk for a 96.5% efficient Goodman and vented it out the side.
Amazing. Glad you were able to get the same product and save a bundle!
Hi I agree if you do yourself it nice and neat, contractors just want to get done and take money and go away, my I ask in your state??? You don't need license to do the hvac?? It not hard but it require license in Toronto canada when it come to gas,
Bro 90% Percent furnaces absolutely suck…..you were better off replacing your old 80% furnace with a new one….trust me….
My Goodman furnace and ac is 16 years old. Never gave me a problem. Last year I got a few estimates to replace the furnace coil and compressor with the same Goodman units. The estimate ranged from $8000 to $15000 it looks like I have to pay the piper. In my younger days I probably could do the job myself. But at 86 , there is no way! by the way . That is a great video. I learned a lot . I wish you were in NJ.
Been doing hvac service work for years and definitely appreciate video that’s detailed like this always can learn from someone
Great video, thank you. Have been in the building trades my entire life in addition to doing everything I also see everything so I also do everything myself with some associated guidance so I really appreciate what you posted here.
Of course. thanks for watching, cheers
Agreed. I helped my FIL (an electrician) replace his boiler - the toughest part of the job was manhandling the new boiler inside the home and to the basement. The old one we broke up (cast is brittle) but the new one was heavy as hell.
Thank you for making these videos so a non tech can understand them I have learned so much from your videos you have the hart of a instructor keep them coming. 👍
Great video, extremely helpful. I got stuck installing a furnace because you can't get a contractor around here to do it (they're all maxed out on new housing developments) and I did not have a clue about how to do it. The instructions that come with the furnace are just impossible to sort out. This video really clarified how you do this. Thanks a bunch!
Dang! You're good. Your videos are so real, it's like we are right next to you while you work. Thanks for posting.
Pretty cool! I’m an HVAC Engineering designer. I spec equipment and duct layouts and make up drawings. It’s nice to see the install, I always try and think of how the installer is going to actually put the stuff together, but that’s hard to do when you haven’t installed the equipment before. This gives me a bit of an insight on how you’d actually go about doing your checks and pull the old equipment out. Thanks for posting! I’m gonna follow your channel. 👍🏼
Where do you work as a engineer designer, that's neat! I've always thought about going that route later on in life. I find it fascinating. I've been in service part of the industry.
@@tallboyhec4461 I work in Northern Canada, in a medium sized HVAC consulting firm. I started out in a small (3-5 person) firm. If you want to work in the HVAC Engineering field there's kind of 2 routes, at least in Canada. You can get your full mechanical engineering bachelors degree (4 years of school), then you become an Engineer in Training, and need to work for 4 years and apply to become a full Professional Engineer, with a stamp and legal designation. The other route is you can get an Engineering Technician certificate, its a trades program and I think it's about 2 years. The tech position is more of a support (drafting/site inspection) role since you need a full engineer to stamp and approve your work, but with experience you can also do lots of the design work under supervision. Since you have experience in the service industry that could be a nice fit since you already have some HVAC experience, you would just end up flushing out your knowledge with more in depth theory and math.
“Jokingly “you’re the problem.
Plans are never drawn with elevation in mind. It always shows a 12 inch high object in and 11 inch space
Scary a engineer that cannot install what they designed. The best engineer is a tradesman that became a engineer. Please do the world a favour go out on job sites and talk to the guys doing the job. Engineers are fairly dangerous people. For example in Australia they designed a train and made some simple mistakes. The driver could not look out the driver-side to see the Marcus to pull up at the railway station. Then they made all the trains 6 inches too high they obviously did not consult. The train drivers never looked into the ergonomics. Never did a mock up to see how the passengers would step on in Brisbane Australia. We talking about hundreds of millions of dollars to create this very basic engineering mistakes, so an engineer theoretical person absolute hazard to every industry. If you don’t go out on the jobsites with mockups if needed and talk to every trade involved you’re just a pencil pusher but doesn’t care. When it comes to try and design, the very brilliant engineers designed a train 6 inches to wide for a train tunnel through a mountain. These issues also happened in the computer industry where programs are designed by people that cannot use them. I do not understand the business or how the end user is to use it.
@@davidwright1752 I think they also "engineer" furnaces, compressors, etc.. to only last X amount of years before they fail. Great job security for HVAC techs if these expensive components need to be replaced every 5 or 10 years, as opposed to every 25 to 30 years. I know MANY units in my older neighborhood, including my own RUUD system, which lasted for at least 20 to 25 years. Yes they are probably more inefficient, but it proves that they CAN be engineered to last longer, they just choose not to. They just don't build them like they used to. Same goes for appliances. My mother had a refrigerator that lasted for over 30 years, a washing machine for over 10 years, and a dishwasher over 10 years with some minor inexpensive repairs along the way. Now, appliances are "engineered" to last 5 years if you are lucky, and it's cheaper to buy a new one and send the old one to landfill, than have it repaired due to exorbitant costs on replacement parts and labor.
I must have missed seeing you clean the evaporator. I'm going to go back and and watch again. You really do A high-grade install for sure 👊😎 We had a normal contract with a HVAC company with the same mechanic. He taught me so much, especially when it comes to commercial units. Had an issue at my home while I was learning. Andy said you know everything about commercial units. It's the same principal. It's just smaller. The commercial units we use were flown by A. Helo put in place on the new building. Almost a 10 acre building me and another was responsible for all the mechanicals and electricals therefore. That is one nice clean job that you did. Jam up job brother. Proud of you. 👌
I agree with previous comments on combustion testing and clocking the meter in case of natural gas to get proper btu input and proper combustion for maximum efficiency from your furnace install
That looks good brother . Super cool how you checked the static pressure and the gas valve.
Love the install. Very professional. I Will say though testing the static pressure is more accurate the closer to the blower. I make holes in the furnace with a zip in screw and use something to clear the insulation
Thanks for the lesson, it's not hard as you mentioned if one is mechanically inclined. It's great to see the steps involved and the money saving aspect is fantastic. Especially if one thinks they could save a little but still complete a safe furnace replacement. Thanks again for your help
This scenario is every HVAC installers dream: upflow in a nice room with plenty of space. However, most installers often have to replace furnaces in a crawl space or tight attics or jammed into a closet in a narrow hallway. I have had to remove water heaters before to gain access to the equipment. The job is really harder than you think!
Umm, then hire a professional if it’s too hard to get to. 🤷🏻♂️ In Utah, 95% of the systems are just like this one 👍🏽 it’s a great place to be an hvac contractor.
im from south east texas and all of our installs are in really hot attics with insulation and very little area to work...plus we use ductboard and the entire application is different than this application in a mechanical room upflow lol i would call this a dream job that you tell your work buddies for years to come haha
In the 45 years (started '77!) I've been involved with HVACR service and installation, I've seen IT ALL~!~ LOL~!~
Residential change-outs and new installs were always the best work~!~ Plus you almost ALWAYS got a
nice tip from the home owner if things went smoothly,, with it did 95% of the time or more~!~
I've always said, HVACR work is the very best of the trades~!~ Once you get past being a helper, it's $$$$ time for you~!~ I used to make between $200 - $400 plus after hours!!!! That was in early 198o's too~!~
Any one of you guys, and girls watching this video, go for it~!~!~!~ In less than 5 years you'll be making buku
bucks~!~ No if and's or buts~!~
Biggest issue is,you will have no warranty! Most companies will not issue any warranty unless it was purchased from a supply house and installed by an approved contractor!
@@petersmart1999 to add to this, any time you make a major change to your home or make a major purchase, it needs to be inspected. You also need permits. If you get caught replacing your own furnace with no licenses, certifications, permits, and haven't a clue on code, be ready to be fined lots of $$$$.
I really appreciate your videos and they are very educational. You made one earlier that somewhat touch on the newer high efficiently furnace but basically completely skipped over the fact you had to run a new flue and intake. Any plan in the near future to make a video on that? I bought a new furnace and turns out I cannot use my existing chimney and got caught off guard by it. This would help a lot of people, especially now these days that I'm sure a lot more people are installing high efficiency units.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. This was a great step-by-step furnace install. I was wondering in your near future videos if you can do a roof AC - Furnace unit install. 🙏
I don’t do any roof units but if I get one of those I will 100% film it! Cheers
Great information , supporting a fellow tradesman. Glad the channel is thriving
🙏🏻
Great video and very detailed. You answered one question I had concerning the flex gas line and I thank you.
Of course! Thanks for watching!
Don't be that hard yourself, this video is perfect for me, I love the screen wheel trick to create the creases or bends.
You are awesome. As someone that needs a new furnace as mine is 30 years old, you give me the confidence to replace my furnace without the need to spend thousands of dollars that I don't have.
Awesome. Just make sure you are being safe! That’s all I ask :) cheers
Manufacturer won't honor a warranty if a home owner does it diy...just sayn.
@@AllTattedUp13 I'm fully aware. At a savings of $6,000 I'm willing to live with that.
Really nice, informative, clear, organized and neat job , thank for every thing.
Great video! One comment I have to make tho you may have covered it - make sure the local government building dept. is OK with a DIY install (permit) and if a final inspection is needed. Now, if you were to do a baseboard hot water furnace, you might do my area a world of good. I did ours about 10 years ago. I even purchased the same brand (Utica Boiler) assuming that the circ pump and zone valves would be a simple disconnect old and reconnect new. Nope. I got lots of copper piping soldering practice as everything was just the opposite. The spec sheets the seller had were outdated. Have to say that the new arrangement was cleaner. I learned a lot plus the higher efficiency furnace helped my gas bill somewhat.
The big thing with the building department is that everything is local. This install was apparently in an earthquake area, and flex pipe was required. At my last house, they required hard pipe all the way. This is one of the things where a pro would understand what the inspectors care about. In a different install, all they seemed to inspect is that the AC has the correct sized breaker, since newer AC units frequently are rated for a smaller breaker than older installs. The furnace was not even looked at, perhaps because a local company which always gets permits did the work.
Your videos are so well done. You have a soothing, calm nature when you explain things. I'm a big fan of constructive criticism--we all learn from it. I just wish some of the people who point out ways to improve would be more tactful (or just be a bit nicer)--you deserve that for making these videos.
Thank you so much sir. I wish people would be more tactful too. Like I’m open to advice but people don’t have to be so abrasive. Thanks again! Cheers
Unfortunately, "experts" tend to be very critical whenever they see someone doing something that they believe only they are qualified to do.
Agreed. I also need to be more tactful. Thank you to DIY GUY and to the commenters.
I installed my new Goodman 80K gas, 96% furnace a couple of months ago with all new ducts and returns totally myself, I'm very happy with it and after a little adjustments to get a better duct balance I'ts good now. I added an external intake with damper, installed the gas and electric myself.
Thankfully I have just heat only so I don't have to mess with A/C coils, condensors and all that krap stuck on top of the furnace etc
I had my kitchen where my desk is feel cooler than the rest of the house, and the basement was as well due to insulation on all the ducts. I originally had 2 registers in the kitchen but blocked off one as the room is further from the furnace at the end of the duct run, but I wound up getting rid of the tee that went from thr 6" round to the two registers, and cutting out 4' too and making a straighter shorter run to the one duct and the airflow is MUCH better there now and much warmer.
In the basement I cut a hole for a register in the 3x14 duct that goes to one register in the front room where the thermostat is, and partially closed the room's register- it was getting a lot more air and I suspect the furnace was shutting off sooner so the kitchen didn't get warm enough.
I keep the thermostat at 73 degrees and the furnace is doing great.
Amazing. Thanks so much for sharing 🙏🏻 did you get quotes for the same job?
That is a lot of work to still do it wrong but enjoy!
Great video for home owner. So if the furnace is being installed by a contractor, the home owner can understand what the contractor is talking about and ask good questions 👍
Total external static pressure , ESP, is including the filter pressure drop. You need to take your return pressure reading between blower and filter.
Very informative video ! I would recommend using gloves when working around sheet metal due to all of the sharp edges. You have convinced me I can do my own install.
Awesome! If you need help with your replacement, check out our membership over at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where for 25 bucks you will get one on one support and quick response times 👍🏼 cheers
Great video, minor things, I never use a pipe wrench on brass, I always use an adjustable ie crescent on them to prevent bite marks. I would have put filler pieces in on the coil to prevent air bypass. Keep doing the great work!
Thanks so much for the feedback, I really really appreciate it. I try and make each one a little better then the last :) cheers
I haven't used a crescent wrench since I was a kid. They make wrenches to fit all sizes, including metric.
@@diyhvacguy Class act response.
@@sharpenflat6002 Crescent wrenches have purpose for the professional homeowner and pro. You are talking about auto mechanics not using a crescent wrench.
@@sharpenflat6002 Knipex Smooth jaws!
It really is a straightforward job if the dimensions of components don't change very much. I got a couple quotes to replace 2 furnaces and after a bit of research realized the furnaces were being marked up $3-4000 and they wanted over $4000 for each installation. I bought the exact same furnaces for about $1200 each and installed myself for under $500 and about a day and half of my labor.
Nice!
That's because HVAC is easy to markup... like plumbing. You can't really say no to someone that is going to get your heat back on when it's freezing. Obviously you have the DIY skills but in general HVAC folks can charge an arm and a leg just because.
Where's a good place to purchase HVAC equipment? Sounds like you got a great deal.
@@tycurtin7565 I used AC WHolesalers.
Comparing doing it yourself to what a company charges is pretty immature. Company costs include specialized equipment , inventory, vehicles, employee benefits , insurance, permit costs and annual fees allowing them to do business in the fuels industry. I would be surprised if a manufacturer would honour the warranty on equipment installed by a unqualified home owner.
Great video and I laughed pretty hard at the additional content (sniffing the customers crabs). That's a first! Tip to use a screen gasket tool for breaks is genius.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Great video! Appreciate all the details. In your next video, can you explain more about the adjustments of airflow with static air? Would love to see how you would adjust it. Thanks.
👍🏼 will do
I once had an error code on my goodman furnace and I think it was because I was using a very high merv pleted air filter. Our house and space was not blessed with a very big return, its 14x20x1 and I had like a MERV-8 pleted in there. Going down to those cheaper filters always resolved it. The static pressure thing makes sense.
Merv 11 chocked my furnace to complete stall
Great video! From start to finish. Thank you!
This is helpful to reduce the anxiety of doing this job myself one day. I was told to replace my furnace about 15 years ago by a furnace company. I have multiple carbon monoxide detectors which never indicated any problem. 🤷♀️
Awesome. Knowledge is power and it’s in your best interest to have co testers. It’s getting harder and harder to find trustworthy hvac contractors.
@@diyhvacguy Most carbon monoxide detectors need 50 ppm for over 8 hours to go off, 9 ppm is the maximum safe level indoors. When you test for CO in the trades you typically have a device that will detect extremely small leaks. Your standard detector is there to keep you from falling asleep and not waking up, not to detect any CO leak your system has.
We just had our first floor furnace replaced, dual fuel, 80,000 btu. Cost us $15k. I checked with a few people I know who just had theirs replaced and that is the going rate here, North Carolina. Not a job I wanted to tackle, I'm glad you guys are out there. Hoping our upstairs system will keep going for awhile, I'm running out of kidneys to sell :)
i just had my furnace and 40 gallon water heater replaced,6200 dollars,in saskatoon sask. i hear some people have paid way more !!! 6200 new units ,parts and labor .
$15k for an 80k btu furnace....thats $13k in labor! How many weeks did it take???
I need to move to North Carolina. Give yall 20% off $15k Furnace replacement job
@@viet102082 you could do half off and still make great money!!!
@VietVlog 17 I've got another unit on the second floor so come on over :)
These furnace videos of yours keep getting better and you are giving out some very solid information. However, you did ask for feedback and I'm surprised you didn't take to heart comments about the electrical hookup regarding the Anti-short bushing inside the armored cable and a knockout bushing for the back of the junction box. It was pointed out in previous comments that leaving the wires unprotected can result in rubbing against the sharp edges and slowly, little by little over the next ten or twenty years (or more one hopes!) from the vibration of the motor. When the day comes that the insulation wears through the circuit protection may not trip because you didn't bond the ground to the junction box. And the one on the inside that you didn't fully seat can come loose.
Thank you for the feedback, I have the bushings on my truck now, so that will be shown in the next install. I’ve see 30 year old systems no bushing and no issues so I’m finding it hard to wrap my brain around this one, but I want to make each one better so I will 100% do it moving forward. Thanks again for the feedback! Cheers
Was thinking the same. Do it right.
I normally don't run wires thru sheet metal holes without grommets (even low voltage). If I wanted to have the electrical junction box (switch box) mounted on outside of furnace, what could I use to protect insulation of stranded wires from getting chafed on knock out hole ? What about strain relief? Do you ever do something for stranded wires running from box to box in metal clad? I am not aware of anything in NEC about that.
Also there was a comment that an anti short bushing was missed ? Where? I saw an orange bushing supplied in the end of the mc cable.
Wow tremendous video I think I learned more by wanting you that in technical school bro you are the best thank you again
You got it bro! Cheers
Hello. How are you doing. I am watching you clip and you are so great, to explain everything you do. I am very happy to see. I am learning from you. You are doing great 👍job
🙏🏻
This is an amazing tutorial on gas furnace replacement. I have not seen this much detail on other videos. I especially liked the air cleaner attachment and static pressure measurement technique. I've seen a lot of transition videos but your was a new twist for me. Could the temp rise have been measured at the furnace return air/supply air ducts?
Probably so on the temp locations. There is quite a range on temp rise. Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate the support 🙏🏻
Nice job on that furnace replacement. There is only one thing that I would have done and I did do differently on my gas furnace. Coming up off of the switch box to the box in the ceiling used a piece of three conductor #12 S/O cord with a male plug on the end and then put a 20a receptacle in that box in the ceiling. That way if there’s ever an emergency where the power is out, can have a generator outside run an extension cord inside and plug your furnace into an extension cord to give you your 120V for your blower and controls.
You'll need to take steps to make sure you don't have mains on the male plug during normal use, and steps to make sure you don't backfeed the rest of your house (and the grid) when you run on the generator.
@@roflchopter11 I know that
I have a hardwired furnace and installed a small manual transfer switch made for connecting a generator via an extension cord. I can't wait until the next power outage!
Thanks Brother keep recording before you know it you will have 1 Million subscribers!!!!!!!!
Awesome
Going to mine,myself . Thanks
Thank you for all of your videos I have learn alot .
Awesome, I’m glad they are helping people :) cheers
The instructions were very clear
Been in the trade since i was 22 years now 38 the trade has been the best thing that has ever happen to me, best part is side job sat where in one day i make 2 weeks worth or work replacing a ac and furnace job.
Awesome thanks so much for sharing.
Best thing I’ve ever done too.
Grown up , fixing everything , like a farmer, thanks
Thanks for this video to replace furnace's I love videos like this.
Thanks for your teaching. Can you post the instllation video of replacing the 80% furnace with HE(>90%) that required removing metal duct and installing the PVC for condensation.
For solid Wires i would use the Wago 2273 Versions. They have no lever. All you have to do is to push the 11mm stripped wire into the hole and you are done. To loosen the wire, you have to twist it back and forth and pull it at the same time.
The Wago 2273's are available for 2, 3, 4, 5 and 8 Wires. (2273-202, 2273-203, 2273-204, 2273-205, 2273-208)
as much as wagos have been tested the small amount of actual connection concerns me. i prefer the twist the wires together and then add a wire nut. i know the old way...
Great job David!
Wouldn’t be able to do it without you🙏🏻
Crab sniffer! 😂😂😂 Awesome video and invaluable content thank you so much
🤣🤣🤣 thanks man
I appreciate your making this video. I would additionally have liked to have seen how you cleaned the "A" coil and contain the mess. Some viewers might not have detected that this was a low-efficiency furnace. I would think most modern installations are high-efficiency condensing units.
It’s all based on how much the homeowner wants to pay. This particular one wanted to spend as little as possible so that’s why they got a lower efficiency furnace.
In my area, a 92% efficient furnace is the minimum allowed. I had a 96% one installed in my house, 98% was available, but it was a lot more expensive.
@@diyhvacguy Some people don't understand operational cost will be higher than purchase cost. The savings over the life of the higher efficiency furnace makes it worth it. If you explain it to them, they may be convinced.
Pre covid our trucks cost 400 a month, post covid our new trucks cost 1200 a month. Same truck, same setups, equipment costs twice what it did before covid, our starting pay went from 12 dollars an hour to 20/hr. Flex duct if you can get it is twice the price as it was. Copper is more expensive, flux is more expensive, pipe is more expensive, in all honesty I'm surprised equipment doesnt cost more to install.
your lucky in Utah to buy this equipment. here in SoCal, only licensed holders can buy them. and as of 2019 can install LoNox. they burn much higher and am told by techs, are more challenging to dial in. Also, the heat exhaust vent needs to be replaced to accommodate the new furnace. on a 2story house, that can add up.
SoCal DIY's have been sidelined when wanting to practice what you perfectly preach.
Keep up the good show. props to your camera man. BTW what food did you almost smell left in the evaporator. that was gross N funny.
Would be awesome if you could do annual service video on that 80% Goodman since many of us have that then that weird mini high efficiency one you did. Especially since the gas line was portable on that one.
That crab knew where to find the good and informative content 😄
I agree with all comments of this video, excellent job, and very good explanation.
Really nice video ! - one suggestion: wherever possible use a square drive screwdriver bit instead of a phillips; you have much better control of tightness and it is far less likely to slip out or strip the screws. Phillips screws are designed to cam out without overtightening, but if the screwdriver is or the screw is worn, it does not serve this function properly. (note that you can use a Japanese Industrial Standard -JIS- screwdrivers that is designed not to cam out and works much better than phillips-indeed if you have a Japanese car or bike then using a phillips screwdriver is an invitation to disaster)
The square aka Robertson screw is Canadian. It is superior, but Americans have too much pride to use it.
@@Kevin-mp5of many very commonly used phillips screws-like those in electrical outlets and circuit breakers- also accept square drive as well as straight screwdrivers. only torx screws will accept torx, which-like many other uncommon screw types- are somewhat of a specialty item
@@Kevin-mp5of You are so smart about this stuff that it scares me. you must be using google search to find all of this stuff that is not relevant to my original simple comment.
@@spirogovas8722 I use it all the time. Just about everything electrical uses either #1 or #2 Robertson.
@@spirogovas8722 I hope you're joking because it just isn't true.
Dave Thanks so much for providing excellent videos ! Appreciate your time ! Happy Holidays !
Thanks 🙏🏻
Always great content 😊thanks you again 😊
So nice of you. Thanks for watching! Cheers
AMAZING VIDEO, CLEAN WORK!!!!
Easier than I thought - thanks!!
Non marring tools highly recommend. Can't stand tool marks but, as for the Romex wire above the metal duct, I hope it was secured to the joice and not just left laying on top? As for the tape, not a big issue to me, least it is sealed. Oh, one more thing. The flex pipe connector, I use the high flow shut off type. Once installed it will not flow if not connected while gas is in on position. Goes good with the earth quake scenario.
Thanks for the pointers! Cheers
love the install the best easy to understand.
Thank you so much for your *Time* and *Energy* into making videos like this and others. There are others who upload similar videos like this but rarely do I find content like yours. You take the time to setup the camera with proper lighting as well as carefully narrate through each steps. I wish I was in your State of Utah so I can hire you for a furnace replacement job. I have a 35 year old condensing furnace which was a champ and is now beginning to leak condensate around the collector box and draft inducer blower housing. I think the white RTV sealant is failing so I have ordered a new collector box (original is metal and a nipple rusted out) and "GE" RTV per Carrier service instruction manual. I am handy so I know I can fix it given enough time. While I have the parts off, I will take the time to inspect and replace any other parts I feel it is worth the time. I hope the condensing heat exchanger is okay (it is stainless steel) since it is 35 years old. The part is $1,500 retail so it would not be worth it to fix at that point - just to replace the entire unit instead.
It’s great that you put in instructions for the water heater but you should’ve mentioned that not all water heaters are the same. Check the instructions for yours specifically and you may have to find them online or in a book.
Hi, I enjoy your videos. I have an Trane 80% upflow furnace that’s 22 years old. I have some experience with HVAC and have replaced two furnaces in the past and repaired a few others. When the time comes to replace my current one, in your opinion, is just replacing the heat exchanger a good option for me as I’d be only be paying for the heat exchanger parts and the rest of the components are still fine? If I replace the entire furnace there would be substantial sheet metal work as I’d have to fabricate both the plenum and the return box that it has now. Obviously the new furnace would be smaller and would require a lot of transitioning. Thanks!
Instead of stripping the end of the green ground wire and puting a hook on it for your ground screw start your strippers about 2" from the end of the wire and just slide the green insulation 1/2" towards the end of the wire without sliding it all the way off. This gives you something to grab on both sides to curve the wire around the screw without taking the ground screw completely out and dropping it into the abyss. Also works with stranded wire and can be used instead of a ring terminal when in a pinch.
At 14:02 - yes, that's a dead mouse on the floor.😂😂😂
A good thing to mention is your typical NPT pipe thread make up is 3/8”-1/2” some times people with no experience over tighten fittings. And it doesn’t matter the diameter, weather its 3/4” or 1 1/2” diameter pipe it will thread in approximately 1/2” and should be close. Good job!
Use a Cresent smooth jaw wrench on brass or copper fittings leaves no marks and safer from cracks forming from deep cuts from pipe wrenches,
Maybe you or someone could answer my question quickly? I recently had a new 95% Champion furnace and AC upflow system installed in Chicago and in a full unfinished basement, Condenser is obviously outside. The furnace filter rack is now my new furnace base with a front opening door, 20x 25 box and filter. MY question is due to insufficient cold air returns (1970 house) I'm experiencing a lot of pressure when the filter door is opened during normal operation. It appears as if it should have a second filter box added to the side of the unit with another filter to relieve the heavy negative pressure and let the furnace breath better still keeping some negative pressure. Some friendly advice would be appreciated.. Awesome videos by the way!
Because in nj we have a master Hvac license. Also we have to warranty job. Workers comp, liability Insurence. Just because you can put heater in don’t mean you know what your doing. Did you run load calc to make sure your not over sizing equipment. Some jobs you got 6000 to 8000 dollars in equipment. Two stage, multi stage. Gas with heatpump.
I never get that lucky! I always end up changing out 75 year old Williamson units with new 95% ones!
Cool video! One “issue” I have with what you did; I work in the natural gas industry, shutting of and turning on the gas shut off at the meter is illegal! It is what is considered an “OQ covered task” meaning it should ONLY be done by the gas company.
Thanks for what you do! I appreciate how in depth you go and the knowledge you are able to share.
In most areas shutting OFF the gas at the meter is something anyone is allowed to do, but only the gas company is allowed to turn it back on.
For example, disaster planning advice is to shut off the gas to your house, and then the gas company will go around turning it back on after your house is checked to make sure it's safe.
@@VideoArchiveGuy I am in the natural gas industry, turning on/off a gas service valve, the valve before the meter, is considered an “OQ covered task”. OQ stands for Operator Qualifications. This means that to turn off or on the valve, one MUST be on OQ covered employee based on the standards set forth by the federal DOT and the other governing bodies of the transport of natural gas. In the IFGC, gas code book, it states that the only other individual(s) who can turn off the gas service valve are the fire dept in emergency situations, and the “code official” again, in emergency situations but they are NEVER allowed to turn service back on.
@@shepherdhillfarms7821 It warns official personnel will be needed to turn it back on, but even this FEMA document details how to shut it off.
www.fema.gov/sites/default/files/2020-08/fema_earthquakes_fema-p-530-earthquake-safety-at-home-march-2020.pdf
@@shepherdhillfarms7821 Who enforces the "OQ covered task" requirements?
Every time my gas company replaces the meter (7-year intervals) they insist on relighting any pilot lights and performing a safety check on any connected equipment - which is fine.
The gas company tech could probably tell that a DIYer was at the meter if there were pipe wrench jaw-marks on the valve, but other than that, who is going to know?
@@Struthio_Camelus Great question! It really is not enforced. Technically if the gas company wanted to, they could pursue prosecution, but it would most likely not pan out. It is technically against federal law to operate the gas service valve unless you are OQed by the operating company. So, if I am on vacation in another state and operate a service valve, I am in violation of law even though I am OQ qualified with my company in my state. The only reason I commented was to bring awareness. I have been to emergency calls where the gas was turned off, then back on by someone who did not do it right and it caused the regulator to fail and cause a leak. It can be a dangerous situation, and if there was ever to be an incident, then I am sure whomever operated the valve illegally would be prosecuted.
The only thing, is that in my area, only a licensed gasfitter can connect the gas line, and in addition, requires a connection inspection by the gas utility. The gasfitter also installs a certification seal on the piping they did.
I just removed an old oil fired boiler and installed a Bosch Greenstar 100P Combi Unit set up for propane. The problem is that it throws a E8 communication error every time the thermostat calls for heat. I eventually realized that the boiler refuses to operate for Central Heating only (It's not hooked up for DHW). I can enter the code for Central Heating only, and watch the value being saved, but as soon as I exit Service Mode it reverts to Combi appliance mode. Do you have any suggestions? The plumbing, electric and venting were not that hard. The firmware is being difficult.
the wire leading to the furnace could be sheathed also. It the sheathed electrical wire clipped along the furnace or glued? The hole in the joist for the electric box should be in the center of the stud. I think the coiled connector between the solid pipe tubing should have a long wide turn, not a short sharp turn. I assume everything was shop vaced before starting. What are your service recommendations and how often? Very detailed video. A list of supplies would be best (in order of usage). Well done.
It would be interesting to see a downflow unit with ducting that attaches to the bottom of the furnace
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Of course 🙏🏻
Evaporator coil needs to be flush to sheet metal on the left, right, front, and back to provide proper air flow, this leads to major issues down the line. Mastic should be applied outside of the unit, inside application as shown here leads to it cracking over time and causing issues (not a major issue, just not ideal and you can avoid future issues by applying this outside the unit). Flexible gas lines frequently (at least in my state) require the gas line to be bonded.
Thanks for the feedback! 👊🏼
Phenomenal install bro
Fantastic video!!!! Great job!
Would the evaporator work better if you had filled in the gaps between it and the ductwork? Air is likely to take the easy path around the coil making the AC not work as efficiently as possible.
It’s not a huge gap so it won’t really make a huge difference. I think they’re going to replace the ac this spring so this was a bit of a temporary thing. Why they didn’t opt to go ahead and replace the ac while we were in it is beyond me but that was their call. Thanks for the comment! Cheers
absolutely will make a difference, the science that goes into evaporator coils and the air that's intended to be pushed through them is delicate, I've seen coils restricted with only a 2" plate, changing airflow and causing all kinds of issues with the system including freezing up. which consequently will cause excess oil to be pushed out of your compressor, causing all kinds of other issues, some being permanent
That is absolutely the wrong answer. By pass air around the evaporator coil is a huge problem.
I got a question, so you measured the static pressure which came out to .44 and you looked it up in the chat which have you the CFM of 1,440 but what exactly did you do with that number? Why did you do that? I thought you were going to look up the CFM, then measure the airflow to make sure you are getting 1,440 CFM through the return
I’m gonna have to swap mine at some point. We have propane furnace. It’s expensive to run. Gonna have to swap to electric at some point. Thanks for the videos.
Explained very well Thanks
i ama pretty good Diy er. furnances seem to come in pretty standard sizes and if replacing one just find one that matches the old one in output and size. when it comes to prices, i have seen them all over the place. a $1k furnace is probably $5k installed by a company. when it comes to permits , if a home owner is apt to pull them, its not much difference than wiring your house. as long as an inspector comes out and signs off on it they should be good .
Is there ANY way that a Goodman 90% natural gas furnace could be venting what smells like a faint smell of "car exhaust" or the like!? I feel like when my furnace is on blowing I can detect that. It is not all the time either. It only seems to happen when the temperature goes down to colder temps. Is it possible to have a crack or something like that in the heat exchanger or something that could cause this? Also, I feel that in the summer I can also detect something when the cooling unit is on blowing. I dont know what to think about all of it! ?
Excellent furnace video!
Very thorough! Thank you
Thanks for sharing
28:53-That flexible electrical cable section looks like BX cable shielding.
the only thing i did notice was at the 30min mark the junction box was not grounded IAW 250.148 - Continuity and Attachment of Equipment Grounding Conductors to Boxes. If circuit conductors are spliced within a box or terminated on equipment within or supported by a box, all equipment grounding conductor(s) associated with any of those circuit conductors shall be connected within the box or to the box with devices suitable for the use in accordance with 250.8 and 250.148(A) through (E)
I watched it in full thanks for the video
Did I miss how much this install cost? Parts/labor
For the customer this install was $2800 dollars. Yesterday I met a guy who worked for a big company and he said it wasn’t common to be at 6-8k just for a standard efficiency furnace and nothing else 😦
Nice Job. I recommend a combustion analysis before commissioning.