6:13 There are old furniture keys of the same length snd fitment one can purchase to open and lock the lid. Also I keep extra keys as well. I also machined at least over a dozen keys and keep a plaster mold as well to prevent that problem.
Keys are easy to find for Victrola cabinets, they turn up on eBay for around $30 or less . The problems can happen if the lock itself is damaged. I have seen broken locks on cabinets, including one ruined cabinet because someone damaged the lid badly trying to open it due to an internal fault with the lock caused by corrosion and age. These locks were small, and cheap, intended to keep the kids out of your machine. These days there is little reason to lock them, the key is just a nice accessory to have for display.
Mine is model number 28760B. 1913. First year of the handbrake VV-XI. Narrow cabinet floor model with the more ornate half moon leafing on the edges and ornate legs. The Motor board has the exposed round metal underneath the platter. Mahogany as well. Mine also has the original caster wheels which many took off to prevent damage to the wooden floors and ended up putting felt at the bottom.
I just love the way you dealt with the issue of the key. “Just put it away”! I get your point, though I do have mine under the machine’s lid. BTW Jim, why don’t you play the Beatle 45 you found in the horn slots...just kidding!
Someone gave me a whole stack of 60's era 45's that I have no way to play, I will add these to that pile if they come out. I am not pulling the entire horn apart to get them out.. Yes, be careful of that key, If I get a chance I might shoot some video of the XI parts machine with the shattered lid caused by a broken lock. It could have been fixed with a lid swap, but they left it someplace where the bugs ate into the cabinet. Probably 50 years ago by the look of it.
The best way to fix it is to not fix it. Alligatoring is the natural process of the shellac aging due to sunlight exposure and endless hot/cold cycles as climate changes . It's just part of the patina you can expect to see on a hundred year old piece of wood with an original shellac finish. Some people like to experiment with ways to make a hundred year old finish look like it was put on yesterday, that would not be me. I will clean the filth off an original finish, but I will not alter the finish itself. If I wanted new looking furniture I would buy new furniture. Todays 1917 XI has some alligatoring, and it will stay there, just part of the look of a 105 year old machine.
I’m just saying I think you meant to say 1916 because it says February something 1916 but you said 1917 sorry do not mean to correct you I’m very sorry
That’s OK Bobby, the 1916 date is on the patent sticker. These could say the same year for several years until they have a reason to change the information on it and print new stickers. You date patrol is by the serial number in this case the serial number corresponds to the block of numbers used in 1917 for this particular model.
6:13 There are old furniture keys of the same length snd fitment one can purchase to open and lock the lid. Also I keep extra keys as well. I also machined at least over a dozen keys and keep a plaster mold as well to prevent that problem.
Keys are easy to find for Victrola cabinets, they turn up on eBay for around $30 or less . The problems can happen if the lock itself is damaged. I have seen broken locks on cabinets, including one ruined cabinet because someone damaged the lid badly trying to open it due to an internal fault with the lock caused by corrosion and age. These locks were small, and cheap, intended to keep the kids out of your machine. These days there is little reason to lock them, the key is just a nice accessory to have for display.
Mine is model number 28760B. 1913. First year of the handbrake VV-XI. Narrow cabinet floor model with the more ornate half moon leafing on the edges and ornate legs. The Motor board has the exposed round metal underneath the platter. Mahogany as well. Mine also has the original caster wheels which many took off to prevent damage to the wooden floors and ended up putting felt at the bottom.
I just love the way you dealt with the issue of the key. “Just put it away”! I get your point, though I do have mine under the machine’s lid. BTW Jim, why don’t you play the Beatle 45 you found in the horn slots...just kidding!
Someone gave me a whole stack of 60's era 45's that I have no way to play, I will add these to that pile if they come out. I am not pulling the entire horn apart to get them out.. Yes, be careful of that key, If I get a chance I might shoot some video of the XI parts machine with the shattered lid caused by a broken lock. It could have been fixed with a lid swap, but they left it someplace where the bugs ate into the cabinet. Probably 50 years ago by the look of it.
Can you use Murphy's Oil Soap to clean these?
I don't know as I have no experience with the product.
I have some light alligatoring of the finish on my VV-XI. What the best way to fix that?
The best way to fix it is to not fix it. Alligatoring is the natural process of the shellac aging due to sunlight exposure and endless hot/cold cycles as climate changes . It's just part of the patina you can expect to see on a hundred year old piece of wood with an original shellac finish. Some people like to experiment with ways to make a hundred year old finish look like it was put on yesterday, that would not be me. I will clean the filth off an original finish, but I will not alter the finish itself. If I wanted new looking furniture I would buy new furniture. Todays 1917 XI has some alligatoring, and it will stay there, just part of the look of a 105 year old machine.
I’m just saying I think you meant to say 1916 because it says February something 1916 but you said 1917 sorry do not mean to correct you I’m very sorry
That’s OK Bobby, the 1916 date is on the patent sticker. These could say the same year for several years until they have a reason to change the information on it and print new stickers. You date patrol is by the serial number in this case the serial number corresponds to the block of numbers used in 1917 for this particular model.