I've only been subscribed to your channel (and signed up at your website) for two days now and you've already saved me from making at least three major mistakes!! Thank you for making such comprehensive and easy to understand videos. And thank you that we don't have to watch a dozen two-minute videos to get the lesson in its entirety (maddening to find those on TH-cam!). My confidence is already improving thanks to your instruction :-)
Professor Pincushion's videos are always so pleasant. I love watching them and I love how I can always learn something new even if the subject matter is seemingly simple. I've learned that nothing in altering patterns is simple because when you change one thing in a pattern, it affects everything that connects to it.
From what I understand, grading is taking one pattern size and increasing (or decreasing) it to another size. So you grade the whole pattern up. With the pivot method, you're just altering a single portion of it. There is a method of slashing and spreading for just altering one aspect of the pattern but the I prefer pivoting, because it's fast, easy, and I don't need to cut up the actual pattern in case I need to redo something.
I would just like to say that I recently adjusted a pattern in several areas for my granddaughter’s dress. I have never done this before and she came over today for a fitting. Imagine my joy when it fit her like a glove! I have no adjustments now whatsoever. Your videos were invaluable for me! Thank you “sew” much!!
I would love to do a tutorial on making muslins and fitting so it's on my wishlist, but I definitely recommend using a cheap similar fabric and basting pieces together enough so you can test the fit of your alterations. Also, our tutorial on functional and design ease goes over finished measurements and how to use it to your advantage before you start sewing
Thank you for posting these videos. This is the second one I have used on your channel to help me understand what to do as a very new seamstress and unfamiliar "interpreter" of patterns. Your clear instructions and overhead shots really help as a visual learner myself. Greatly appreciated.
This is a perfect tutorial for someone like me who is getting back to sewing. My first project is a skirt. I can't thank you enough! Your instructions are super clear. Can't wait to get started.
This video is so helpful as I made a mistake & bought a skirt pattern that is one size too small for me. I appreciate this tutorial & the clear way in which it was presented. Thank you so much.
Amazing. So well explained as usual. The close up shots are excellent. I am ever so grateful for your generous help. I will never have to fret and grumble with commercial patterns. You definitely SOLVED MY PROBLEM. Thanks for sharing and caring. 👍👍👍👍
I am SO lucky to have found this...you might have made this tutorial just for me! I bought a pattern a while ago which included both pants and skirt patterns, with the exact same slanted pocket. Since I am entirely self taught I could'nt figure out how to change my (considerably :-) ) larger waist to fit the hip size and coincidentally just this morning I was thinking of making a skirt usingthis pattern. Thank you so much for this clear and detailed explanation!
yup, you increase the same measurement at the hipline and hemline. Then pivot from the waist, draw your new side seam from hip to waist. Keep it there and and pivot at the hipline to meet your new mark at the hemline and draw the new side seam from hemline to hipline. If it's confusing, we're going to do a tutorial on this.
A really good tutorial. Especially the explanation of how to increase the waist line of a bottom pattern piece with the side pocket was very helpful. Thank you!
Thank u very much, I'm trying to learn, how to do this. I love making clothes, see i use to fear, i could not do this r that. I'm getting out of this thank God. Now i got too learn to sew for my mother, she do not have the money, to buy her no clothes. So this will truly help me out. I'm so glad i found u.
Thank you for all your videos. I am a new sewist and have a menopause tummy. I refer to this video when I have brain fog and forget the steps. I do have a question. I am making a smock top. The gathering is right below the yoke (bust) on a small skirt that is later attached to the yoke. The waist is mid-way down skirt part. How do I increase at the waist when it is mid-way down the skirt part of the top? Pattern - Newlook N6719
This video has helped me so much in the last year. I just feel like telling you how thankful I am for this detailed, easyto follow description. Thank you Thank you Thank you ^_^
Yes, you always do the pivot at whatever the seam allowance is for your pattern. We will be doing more alteration tutorials so just keep an eye out. :)
You only increase at the side seams so even if you have have a dress with 6 panels, you'd still only be dealing with 4 sides seams. So if one of my pieces is in the middle of the skirt and not on a side seam I would not do alterations to it. I like to keep it simple. I don't know how your pattern is but if you need to cut out 2 front skirts and 2 back skirt pieces, it would still be the doing the same pretty much the same thing as in the example in this video. Hope that helps.
hello professor, need help. I have measurements for me as follows: B-40, W-41, H-42. According to pattern, size 18 bust and hip matches except for waist. If I increase my waist size, do I have to increase the hip size? Even though it's a match. How will I use the pivot method for the hip when the number is the same?
You're only dealing with the waistline area so the bottom shape of the skirt doesn't matter. If you're dealing with a skirt that has more panels and you're not increasing by much, you can just do your increase on the pieces that have the side seam.
I realize this video is old and I'm not sure if you still read the comments, but I wanted to say thank you! I tried this method on a bodice last night and your clear, concise instructions made it a breeze. It worked! Any advice for how to increase the waist size of a peplum after I've increased the waist size of the bodice?
Is there a difference between grading a pattern (slash and spread method) versus using the pivot method? Does one produce better results than the other?
I do beleive you may just have given me the help I needed to start making some of the lovely patterns I've built up with my magazine purchases. I have an, *hehem* 49 inch bust. Couple that with the extra weight I've put on on my waist and hips since my third child and suddenly even the most generous of patterns are difficult to get to fit. I've watch your tutorials on increasing bust/waist/hip measurements but I wonder if you could give me any pointers on how to do all THREE on, say, a basic dress pattern (bodice and skirt components). Once I've done my 'divide by 4' sum, I come up with Bust add 1" each side, waist add 1" each side and hips add 1 & 1/4" each side. is the best way to approach it, cut the pattern out to the largest size, then alter the bust, then waist, then hips in that order or is there a another way I should do it? I love your tutorials - I'm so glad I've found them! You are very easy to listen too and explain things so well! Thank you!
If you need to increase bust, waist and hips, then you'll want to use a different method. It's called pattern grading and you're basically enlarging the overall pattern, either going up a size or going down a size. The method in my tutorials is for addressing one area of alteration. I don't have a tutorial on pattern grading but I like this page on Threads: www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all I hope that helps :)
Hello! @professorpincushion Question if you need to increase a pattern or grade up the largest pattern goes up to a size 20 the pattern does not have a waist hip or bust. How do you know how much to increase it by? For example, if the waist is a 48, can it be graded up. Thank you
hmmm...did you pivot more than an 1"? If you do more than a total of 4" things get a little tricky because you're changing the armhole. We're going to have a tutorial on it soon because I'll also show you to to adjust the sleeve.
Thanks so much I had given up til I saw this. I like trousers from the 40's and I have a high waist and big belly, I believe these adjustments will be perfect will let you know. Just purchased old McCall's pattern 4764. Wish me luck.
I love this video, it has helped me resize a pattern at the waist, so I could make my Sons friend some shorts. He is one size bigger than my Son and I had already cut the pattern to make my Sons shorts x
How would I increase the facing for a skirt. Should I just slide the facing the amount of the increase and trace the new seam. This seems like common sense to me, but is there another method? Thanks for the videos, you have saved me many, many times.
That's correct. You're only increasing the pieces that have the side seams so it's always dividing by four, so it really doesn't matter how many pieces are in the bodice. Sounds like you've already figured it out. :)
thank you so much! this looks really simple. I'm making a top for someone and i can't find the pattern w/out ordering online and i'm short on time! i just need to get the upper bust measurement. i have her full bust measurement already and don't want to take a chance on 'winging-it'!
Well now looking at my pieces on the table should I just find where my waist line is on the side pieces and just adjust those two? Then I would end up just dividing it by 4 :)
Thank you so much! That was so helpful! Is there a video which specifies what to do once you have altered your pattern, and learned that you overdid/underdid it? How do you tailor the increase in the event the ease was bigger than you had anticipated?
First, thank you for this wonderful & very informative video. Quick question, I am making a long princess seam dress, which has 6 pieces. Should I just increase my waist just on the front and back pieces? Or should I divide my measurements by 6 (so to include my side pieces) instead of 4? Thank you for any tips or advise you can give me.
You can definitely do both. When choosing a pattern, I would pick based on the hip measurement but if that's not an option, you can do both in two different steps. I would do the hip first and then with that altered pattern, go ahead and do the increase waist next.
For a bodice - If I also had to do a full bust adjustment (as you demonstrated your other video) from which point would I pivot for the waistline adjustment? the original pattern or the new pattern adjusted for the full bust?
I'd pin the yoke pattern piece to the top of the pants pattern so you it's a little easier to do the method and it'll give you a visual on how you'll be adjusting the individual pattern pieces
What if you have, let's say, a skirt pattern with 4 pieces. Would you divide by 4 and leave the front and back panels the same or divide by every total edge you have?
Thank you for your helpful videos. I've learned so much and hope to have finished garments that actually fit! The only question I have is "where would I purchase pattern paper?". Thanks again for your awesome tutorials.
Hello Professor im making a 1960's retro dress. the bust measurement is fine. im 32 inch bust and pattern is 31 and half. my waist is 31 inches and the pattern reads 30 inches. my hips is35 inches and the pattern reads 34 and half inches and the next size on pattern is 36 inches. Do i need to increase both the waist and hips?
So in order to increase the waistline and do a pivot, are you always creasting a pivot in the upper seam allowance of the pattern? Or was that just a coincidence? Would you also be willing to show how to shorten a shoulder seam? I always have too much fabric in that area and am not sure how to shorten that area, and still keep the integrity of the form of the bodice.
GREAT tutorial! Any ideas on how to increase a waistline by 6" on a linen skirt that I made with french seams, then unfortunately gained some weight? Love the skirt and fabric and hate to donate it! Thanks so much in advance!
+Diane Rogers maybe add some cool contrasting fabric to the skirt front seams, like an inserted panel. If the skirt has a waistband, you may be have to redo it to accommodate the increase but if you do it in the same contrasting fabric, it'll look like it was meant to be :)
Thankyou for your tutorial. much appreciated ... I am just learning how to sew and LOVING IT .. but wanted to learn how to alter patterns to make dresses ... this is very simple to understand .... FOR DUMMIES !!!!!
Professor Pincushion One more question as to the math ? If I have a DRESS where the front is CUT 1 ON FOLD ... and the back is CUT 2 .... do I still (divide) ... by 4 ?????
yes, you would still divide by 4. I know it's confusing but think of it this way: Instead of add 2" to one of our seams in one huge chunk, we're adding a little bit to multiple seams. Even if your pattern is placed on a fold, if you affect that side seam, you're affecting 2 side seams, because when you cut it out, you're cutting both sides at once. So there are two sides seams for the front and 2 sides seams for the back, equaling 4 side seams that you're splitting that original 2" with. I hope that makes it clearer!
Hello Professor Pincushion Thank You so much for these tutorials. Here is my question, I have a simplicity pattern vintage 2994, and it's marked with the first side seam, however, in the tutorial you state I need a second side seam located near the end of the pattern. My pattern doesn't indicate a second side seam nor a "box" or any other markings so!, how do I find where the second side seam would be placed? I do have a "notch" at the end like your tutorial. I've listed the pattern number hoping that this may help with my answer. please help!!!! Thanks LaNeicia
LaNeicia Johnson sorry for the confusion. I just meant that there's usually a side seam on the front pattern and a side seam for the back pattern so you're usually repeating the process twice. hope that helps
Professor Pincushion Thanks for the reply, so, to recap, just repeat what is on my pattern correct! there is no need to add another side seam since my pattern only indicates one... Thanks for all of your guidance with my sewing projects :D
Would not the side seam notch for the pants be centered within that 1" instead??? Moving the side seam 1" places all the increase in the front and then the next increase places the other 1" entirely in the back. True the overall length will be correct, just the side seams would be off.
I need a combination to increase waist for a dress pattern and increase the hip which is 5 1/2 inches from the waist. (High hip.) Do I increase at the hip first then the waist or the waist first and then the hip? Thank you. I love this pivot method,....hope it works for me as I am not a standard size. I LOVE Professor Pincushion. Should I ask this on the website?
+Lillian Palko If the skirt and bodice patterns are separate, you can choose to cut one size for the bodice (based on the bustline) and alter the waistline and choose to cut the skirt at a different size (based on the hips) and alter the waistline on that piece. (I don't know if that makes things a little easier for you). But based on your question, you can do the hips first and then the waistline. Don't forget to make your muslin to test your fit. :)
hmmmm....you know, I actually haven't tried it for a circle skirt and yes, I think this would be harder to use this method. The circle skirt pattern is usually pretty standard, a half of a circle. If it was just me, and I need to increase the waist, I would use more of a slide method to increase the diameter of the pattern. By increasing the waist of a circle skirt, it will automatically increase the hip but that's fine since this type of skirt is not supposed to be fitted in the hip area.
+Jean brigham So at 10" you'll be adding 2 1/2" on each side. The pattern might get a little distorted. I would definitely make a muslin to test the pattern after the alteration. If you're doing a pattern for the bottom, like skirt, pants, etc, choose your size according to the hip measurement.
if it were me, I'd select the pattern based on the hip measurement and then alter the waist. if you have to do both then I guess i'd do hip and then waist
My particular pattern has a skater-style circle skirt. I'm going to need to adjust the waist up by 2 inches, but I'm not sure how to alter the skirt section so it fits the new waist.
I usually use the cut and split method, but want to give this a try. The problem is that I need to add 9" total or 2.25" each fours sides. this is rather skewing the bodice. I can use the next size up, but then its decrease the bust and still increase the waist 1.75" each four sides. I have thought of dividing by 8 and adjusting the front and middle back as well. What is your suggestion? And, yes I must use this pattern for a themed wedding even though the style is very unflattering.
Elissa Yost oh, I'm sorry you're struggling with dress that you don't even like :( After reading your issue, if it were me, I would do the next size up. Yes, it's a little extra work to do two adjustments but I think you'll get a less distorted bodice. And you can always choose a different size for the skirt portion so, hopefully, you'll have less to alter. don't forget to make your muslin to test your fit and good luck!
Professor Pincushion Well, we had the same thought. I did go the next size up and basically doing a size 18 bust and a whooping size 22 waist. I believe it's working out. This kills me because I wear a size 14 ready made -- I know ready made and patterns are like apples and oranges, but I don't usually make clothing for myself and had no idea how off they can be. I did just recently read an article about how the three major pattern makers are still using measurement from around WWII. Frustrating!!! Yes I will do a mock up. I found you on FB and asked the same question (no need to reply). Thanks for the assist
Elissa Yost yup, I've noticed that my vintage patterns have pretty much the same sizing as currently exists today. For modern days, it's a little jarring to see yourself in such a big number, but I kind of like that pattern companies chose a standard and maintained it, even among different brands. It's the ready-to-wear garments that keeps changing things up on us and each brand can choose whatever sizing system it wants to use as there no industry standard, which is why I may wear a size 4 in one brand but a size 6 in another.
Professor Pincushion You have an excellent point!!!! I never thought of pattern sizing quite that way before, but I sure have been frustrated with ready made sizes (particularly after this last Christmas). Like it or not, altering patterns is a always going to be necessary because all patterns cannot possibly be made to fit all body types. The pivot method you have demonstrated is much easier than the cut and split method and I'm sure I'll be using it again (hopefully with smaller numbers though). Thank you for the assistance and it's been nice chatting. Elissa
Your video's are great but i have a questoin. I want to make a skirt but the pattern only have 2 parts (both parts must be cut on the fold), do i still have to divide it by 4 or 2?
Klaske Adema you'll still divide by 4. Just like my example, you're patterns are just half of the front or half of the back, because they're symmetrical and it saves on paper to print half and then place on a fold. So you're only seeing 1 side seam on the front skirt pattern but once you cut it on the fold of fabric, you'll then have 2 and the same with the back so 2+2=4. Hope this helps. :)
Could you do a tutorial on adjusting a pattern for people (like myself) that the waist line tends to go up at an angle from front to back. My waist isnt straight across. If I stand side ways and put a string around my waist the string is higher in the back than the front.
Luv hmmm...what you can do is adjust the front and back pattern separately. So measure from side seam to side seam on the front of the body and then side seam to side seam on the back of the body. So each adjustments will be slightly different for the front and back pattern. Definitely create a muslin though, after making your adjustment, to see if you need to do any further tweaks. I hope this helps
How would this be done on a pattern with Princess seams? Would you alter just the side front and side back of the pattern or all of the pieces (center front and center back included)?
Hi...I bought (and cut out the pattern pieces..so cannot return) a pattern that by measurements is significantly smaller (10 inches in waist and 10 inches in hips) and the company (New Look # 6312) does not make a plus size in this skirt design. It has side panels. How do I upsize the pattern? I am so upset as I haven't sewn in some time by patterns and forgot the sizes aren't by clothing size....and I have already purchased the material too. Please help!
hi can I use the patten of my measurement to extend the measurement to some one bigger than me using the same formula with ought using professional patten like that of yours?
If your a size 10 and they need a size 12 then you need to either get a pattern in their size or do pattern grading on your current pattern. This technique is not meant for that as you're only altering one aspect. Pattern grading is taking the pattern and increasing the whole thing into another size. We don't have a tutorial on this but you can read about it here: www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all
I'm going by the same body measurements scale for a fitted shirt I'm making, but fit in a size 12 in waist size, size 16 bust size, and size 18 hip and back-neck to waist size. The pattern I'm using is only for sizes 18-22 so I cut out the pattern for the size 18 but now have to reduce the waist measurement by 9 inches without altering the rest. Is this too much to alter and should I just make my own pattern instead?
impavidus anisoptera there might be some distortion since I imagine there's just a bodice covering all these areas, (bust, waist, hip), but you can still try. Just be sure to make a muslin of your shirt so you can test to see if it fits or needs more alterations
Thank You, for the site, but it clear we are not talking about the same thing. I am speaking of lady figure use on paper. I wonder if it was a free pintout.
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OMG, absolute beginner here: This video tutorial was exactly what I needed 🤩 Thank you so much!
I've only been subscribed to your channel (and signed up at your website) for two days now and you've already saved me from making at least three major mistakes!! Thank you for making such comprehensive and easy to understand videos. And thank you that we don't have to watch a dozen two-minute videos to get the lesson in its entirety (maddening to find those on TH-cam!). My confidence is already improving thanks to your instruction :-)
Professor Pincushion's videos are always so pleasant. I love watching them and I love how I can always learn something new even if the subject matter is seemingly simple. I've learned that nothing in altering patterns is simple because when you change one thing in a pattern, it affects everything that connects to it.
From what I understand, grading is taking one pattern size and increasing (or decreasing) it to another size. So you grade the whole pattern up. With the pivot method, you're just altering a single portion of it. There is a method of slashing and spreading for just altering one aspect of the pattern but the I prefer pivoting, because it's fast, easy, and I don't need to cut up the actual pattern in case I need to redo something.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad to hear that you found our tutorials helpful. We'll definitely have more to come :)
This is exactly what I was looking for....you are so detailed and exact with your information. Thank you so much!!!!
I would just like to say that I recently adjusted a pattern in several areas for my granddaughter’s dress. I have never done this before and she came over today for a fitting. Imagine my joy when it fit her like a glove! I have no adjustments now whatsoever. Your videos were invaluable for me! Thank you “sew” much!!
I would love to do a tutorial on making muslins and fitting so it's on my wishlist, but I definitely recommend using a cheap similar fabric and basting pieces together enough so you can test the fit of your alterations. Also, our tutorial on functional and design ease goes over finished measurements and how to use it to your advantage before you start sewing
Hours of frustration have just been destroyed. Best sewing fix to date!
Thank you for posting these videos. This is the second one I have used on your channel to help me understand what to do as a very new seamstress and unfamiliar "interpreter" of patterns. Your clear instructions and overhead shots really help as a visual learner myself. Greatly appreciated.
These videos are just phenomenal! I´m kind of a beginner with sewing, patterns, etc. and I´ve been devouring your clear explanations!
This is a perfect tutorial for someone like me who is getting back to sewing. My first project is a skirt. I can't thank you enough! Your instructions are super clear. Can't wait to get started.
This video is so helpful as I made a mistake & bought a skirt pattern that is one size too small for me. I appreciate this tutorial & the clear way in which it was presented. Thank you so much.
Amazing. So well explained as usual. The close up shots are excellent. I am ever so grateful for your generous help. I will never have to fret and grumble with commercial patterns. You definitely SOLVED MY PROBLEM. Thanks for sharing and caring. 👍👍👍👍
I am SO lucky to have found this...you might have made this tutorial just for me! I bought a pattern a while ago which included both pants and skirt patterns, with the exact same slanted pocket. Since I am entirely self taught I could'nt figure out how to change my (considerably :-) ) larger waist to fit the hip size and coincidentally just this morning I was thinking of making a skirt usingthis pattern. Thank you so much for this clear and detailed explanation!
so glad to help :)
yup, you increase the same measurement at the hipline and hemline. Then pivot from the waist, draw your new side seam from hip to waist. Keep it there and and pivot at the hipline to meet your new mark at the hemline and draw the new side seam from hemline to hipline. If it's confusing, we're going to do a tutorial on this.
Thank you Professor Pin Cushion. I am learning so much from you. Very clear instructions and demonstration.
A really good tutorial. Especially the explanation of how to increase the waist line of a bottom pattern piece with the side pocket was very helpful. Thank you!
Thank u very much, I'm trying to learn, how to do this. I love making clothes, see i use to fear, i could not do this r that. I'm getting out of this thank God. Now i got too learn to sew for my mother, she do not have the money, to buy her no clothes. So this will truly help me out. I'm so glad i found u.
you can do it! :)
Hi, I got it now only the side front and side back pattern pieces need to be adjusted. thanks for your wonderful explanation and video.
Thank you for all your videos. I am a new sewist and have a menopause tummy. I refer to this video when I have brain fog and forget the steps. I do have a question. I am making a smock top. The gathering is right below the yoke (bust) on a small skirt that is later attached to the yoke. The waist is mid-way down skirt part. How do I increase at the waist when it is mid-way down the skirt part of the top? Pattern - Newlook N6719
These type of videos are really helpful since literally all my top measurements are different sizes
This video has helped me so much in the last year. I just feel like telling you how thankful I am for this detailed, easyto follow description. Thank you Thank you Thank you ^_^
Yes, you always do the pivot at whatever the seam allowance is for your pattern. We will be doing more alteration tutorials so just keep an eye out. :)
This is so informative. Thanks for sharing such details. I have trouble with a bigger top than waist. This work great for increasing the bust.
You only increase at the side seams so even if you have have a dress with 6 panels, you'd still only be dealing with 4 sides seams. So if one of my pieces is in the middle of the skirt and not on a side seam I would not do alterations to it. I like to keep it simple. I don't know how your pattern is but if you need to cut out 2 front skirts and 2 back skirt pieces, it would still be the doing the same pretty much the same thing as in the example in this video. Hope that helps.
Hi, I have a dress with front, side front, side back and back would I adjust all pieces? or only the side front and side back pieces, Thanks!!
hello professor, need help. I have measurements for me as follows: B-40, W-41, H-42. According to pattern, size 18 bust and hip matches except for waist. If I increase my waist size, do I have to increase the hip size? Even though it's a match. How will I use the pivot method for the hip when the number is the same?
Kimberly Cole if you do this method, it won't effect the hip measurement, only the waist.
This is so clear and easy to follow. Thank you!
You're only dealing with the waistline area so the bottom shape of the skirt doesn't matter. If you're dealing with a skirt that has more panels and you're not increasing by much, you can just do your increase on the pieces that have the side seam.
I realize this video is old and I'm not sure if you still read the comments, but I wanted to say thank you! I tried this method on a bodice last night and your clear, concise instructions made it a breeze. It worked! Any advice for how to increase the waist size of a peplum after I've increased the waist size of the bodice?
Is there a difference between grading a pattern (slash and spread method) versus using the pivot method? Does one produce better results than the other?
I do beleive you may just have given me the help I needed to start making some of the lovely patterns I've built up with my magazine purchases. I have an, *hehem* 49 inch bust. Couple that with the extra weight I've put on on my waist and hips since my third child and suddenly even the most generous of patterns are difficult to get to fit.
I've watch your tutorials on increasing bust/waist/hip measurements but I wonder if you could give me any pointers on how to do all THREE on, say, a basic dress pattern (bodice and skirt components). Once I've done my 'divide by 4' sum, I come up with Bust add 1" each side, waist add 1" each side and hips add 1 & 1/4" each side. is the best way to approach it, cut the pattern out to the largest size, then alter the bust, then waist, then hips in that order or is there a another way I should do it?
I love your tutorials - I'm so glad I've found them! You are very easy to listen too and explain things so well! Thank you!
If you need to increase bust, waist and hips, then you'll want to use a different method. It's called pattern grading and you're basically enlarging the overall pattern, either going up a size or going down a size. The method in my tutorials is for addressing one area of alteration. I don't have a tutorial on pattern grading but I like this page on Threads: www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all I hope that helps :)
Hello! @professorpincushion Question if you need to increase a pattern or grade up the largest pattern goes up to a size 20 the pattern does not have a waist hip or bust. How do you know how much to increase it by? For example, if the waist is a 48, can it be graded up. Thank you
Thank you for the simple instructions. It was very helpful
We will be doing a tutorial covering how to increase the hipline area.
when altering a pattern and you need to do both hip and waist adjustments, does it matter which one is completed first? Thanks,
hmmm...did you pivot more than an 1"? If you do more than a total of 4" things get a little tricky because you're changing the armhole. We're going to have a tutorial on it soon because I'll also show you to to adjust the sleeve.
Thanks so much I had given up til I saw this. I like trousers from the 40's and I have a high waist and big belly, I believe these adjustments will be perfect will let you know. Just purchased old McCall's pattern 4764. Wish me luck.
I love this video, it has helped me resize a pattern at the waist, so I could make my Sons friend some shorts. He is one size bigger than my Son and I had already cut the pattern to make my Sons shorts x
Very well explained!
Question do you not have to adjust the dart ?
Can u show an increase in other body parts? I have a belly and but and would like to do a pattern increase in these areas as well. - Thanks so much.
well i did the alteration from your video ,thankyou so very much
How would I increase the facing for a skirt. Should I just slide the facing the amount of the increase and trace the new seam. This seems like common sense to me, but is there another method? Thanks for the videos, you have saved me many, many times.
eleaftha felts yes, that's what I would do :)
Same thing with bodice..the front is cut on a fold and the back is cut into two pieces. Am I dividing increase by 3 or 4? You videos are very helpful.
I saw many vdo of yours and those really help me very much.
That's correct. You're only increasing the pieces that have the side seams so it's always dividing by four, so it really doesn't matter how many pieces are in the bodice. Sounds like you've already figured it out. :)
great video ,looking for a while for this ,i need to add 6 inches to wasit,so that i need to add 1.5 ,can i do 1.5 or is it to much ?
thank you so much! this looks really simple. I'm making a top for someone and i can't find the pattern w/out ordering online and i'm short on time! i just need to get the upper bust measurement. i have her full bust measurement already and don't want to take a chance on 'winging-it'!
Well now looking at my pieces on the table should I just find where my waist line is on the side pieces and just adjust those two? Then I would end up just dividing it by 4 :)
This is an awesome video however how do you add to an A Line skirt. I'm a beginner and all of the patterns for the skirt that I like are too small.
I'm new to sewing and this is a great tutorial
Thank you so much! That was so helpful! Is there a video which specifies what to do once you have altered your pattern, and learned that you overdid/underdid it? How do you tailor the increase in the event the ease was bigger than you had anticipated?
First, thank you for this wonderful & very informative video. Quick question, I am making a long princess seam dress, which has 6 pieces. Should I just increase my waist just on the front and back pieces? Or should I divide my measurements by 6 (so to include my side pieces) instead of 4? Thank you for any tips or advise you can give me.
Thanks for all your great videos.
What if I have to increase the waist but also decrease the hips, as per the measured model?
You can definitely do both. When choosing a pattern, I would pick based on the hip measurement but if that's not an option, you can do both in two different steps. I would do the hip first and then with that altered pattern, go ahead and do the increase waist next.
yup, that is correct.
For a bodice - If I also had to do a full bust adjustment (as you demonstrated your other video) from which point would I pivot for the waistline adjustment? the original pattern or the new pattern adjusted for the full bust?
If it were me, I would do bust then waist, using your new version of the pattern for doing the waist.
Will this technique work on hips as well? Thank you, love your videos!
Thanks professor, your you-tube videos are great!!!
Thanks PP. Thst was very clear. Does the slide method work for a pants yolk as well? Thanks
I'd pin the yoke pattern piece to the top of the pants pattern so you it's a little easier to do the method and it'll give you a visual on how you'll be adjusting the individual pattern pieces
@@ProfessorPincushion Thank you so much. That's very helpful. It has helped to have a visual. You always know the easiest way to do things.
What if you have, let's say, a skirt pattern with 4 pieces. Would you divide by 4 and leave the front and back panels the same or divide by every total edge you have?
Thank you for your clear instructions !👏👍😊
Thank you for your helpful videos. I've learned so much and hope to have finished garments that actually fit! The only question I have is "where would I purchase pattern paper?". Thanks again for your awesome tutorials.
I just get wrapping paper with grid on clearance
Can you please make a video on how to lower the neck line on a commercial pattern
Hello Professor im making a 1960's retro dress. the bust measurement is fine. im 32 inch bust and pattern is 31 and half. my waist is 31 inches and the pattern reads 30 inches. my hips is35 inches and the pattern reads 34 and half inches and the next size on pattern is 36 inches. Do i need to increase both the waist and hips?
So in order to increase the waistline and do a pivot, are you always creasting a pivot in the upper seam allowance of the pattern? Or was that just a coincidence?
Would you also be willing to show how to shorten a shoulder seam? I always have too much fabric in that area and am not sure how to shorten that area, and still keep the integrity of the form of the bodice.
GREAT tutorial! Any ideas on how to increase a waistline by 6" on a linen skirt that I made with french seams, then unfortunately gained some weight? Love the skirt and fabric and hate to donate it! Thanks so much in advance!
+Diane Rogers maybe add some cool contrasting fabric to the skirt front seams, like an inserted panel. If the skirt has a waistband, you may be have to redo it to accommodate the increase but if you do it in the same contrasting fabric, it'll look like it was meant to be :)
Hi could you please do a tutorial on how to increase the bust line on a pattern with a cut on sleeve like pattern New Look 6217?.
Thankyou for your tutorial. much appreciated ... I am just learning how to sew and LOVING IT .. but wanted to learn how to alter patterns to make dresses ... this is very simple to understand .... FOR DUMMIES !!!!!
I'm so glad you found our tutorial helpful! Enjoy your new hobby. :)
Professor Pincushion
One more question as to the math ? If I have a DRESS where the front is CUT 1 ON FOLD ... and the back is CUT 2 .... do I still (divide)
... by 4 ?????
michele c
... I don't quite understand why it is divided x 4 ... THANK YOU.
yes, you would still divide by 4. I know it's confusing but think of it this way: Instead of add 2" to one of our seams in one huge chunk, we're adding a little bit to multiple seams. Even if your pattern is placed on a fold, if you affect that side seam, you're affecting 2 side seams, because when you cut it out, you're cutting both sides at once. So there are two sides seams for the front and 2 sides seams for the back, equaling 4 side seams that you're splitting that original 2" with. I hope that makes it clearer!
Awesome!!! Very clear and understandable!!
Hello Professor Pincushion
Thank You so much for these tutorials. Here is my question, I have a simplicity pattern vintage 2994, and it's marked with the first side seam, however, in the tutorial you state I need a second side seam located near the end of the pattern. My pattern doesn't indicate a second side seam nor a "box" or any other markings so!, how do I find where the second side seam would be placed? I do have a "notch" at the end like your tutorial.
I've listed the pattern number hoping that this may help with my answer. please help!!!!
Thanks
LaNeicia
LaNeicia Johnson sorry for the confusion. I just meant that there's usually a side seam on the front pattern and a side seam for the back pattern so you're usually repeating the process twice. hope that helps
Professor Pincushion Thanks for the reply, so, to recap, just repeat what is on my pattern correct! there is no need to add another side seam since my pattern only indicates one... Thanks for all of your guidance with my sewing projects :D
LaNeicia Johnson no, you don't need to add another side seam :)
Thanks for sharing! Very helpful.
Nice! Glad we were able to help :)
Would not the side seam notch for the pants be centered within that 1" instead??? Moving the side seam 1" places all the increase in the front and then the next increase places the other 1" entirely in the back. True the overall length will be correct, just the side seams would be off.
I need a combination to increase waist for a dress pattern and increase the hip which is 5 1/2 inches from the waist. (High hip.) Do I increase at the hip first then the waist or the waist first and then the hip? Thank you. I love this pivot method,....hope it works for me as I am not a standard size. I LOVE Professor Pincushion. Should I ask this on the website?
+Lillian Palko If the skirt and bodice patterns are separate, you can choose to cut one size for the bodice (based on the bustline) and alter the waistline and choose to cut the skirt at a different size (based on the hips) and alter the waistline on that piece. (I don't know if that makes things a little easier for you). But based on your question, you can do the hips first and then the waistline. Don't forget to make your muslin to test your fit. :)
Does the pivot and slide work for a full circle skirt? Do I pivot at the hip line or slide the whole thing? Thanks
hmmmm....you know, I actually haven't tried it for a circle skirt and yes, I think this would be harder to use this method. The circle skirt pattern is usually pretty standard, a half of a circle. If it was just me, and I need to increase the waist, I would use more of a slide method to increase the diameter of the pattern. By increasing the waist of a circle skirt, it will automatically increase the hip but that's fine since this type of skirt is not supposed to be fitted in the hip area.
Hi Professor, Does this method work for adding 8 to 10 inches on each pattern side? Thank you.
+Jean brigham So at 10" you'll be adding 2 1/2" on each side. The pattern might get a little distorted. I would definitely make a muslin to test the pattern after the alteration. If you're doing a pattern for the bottom, like skirt, pants, etc, choose your size according to the hip measurement.
FANTASTIC.
Hello, if you have to alter the hip and waist on the same pattern piece, which alteration should you do first?
if it were me, I'd select the pattern based on the hip measurement and then alter the waist. if you have to do both then I guess i'd do hip and then waist
@@ProfessorPincushion thank you, I'll try that.
does this also work for a strapless sweetheart bodice? It's in 3 parts
My particular pattern has a skater-style circle skirt. I'm going to need to adjust the waist up by 2 inches, but I'm not sure how to alter the skirt section so it fits the new waist.
I usually use the cut and split method, but want to give this a try. The problem is that I need to add 9" total or 2.25" each fours sides. this is rather skewing the bodice. I can use the next size up, but then its decrease the bust and still increase the waist 1.75" each four sides. I have thought of dividing by 8 and adjusting the front and middle back as well. What is your suggestion? And, yes I must use this pattern for a themed wedding even though the style is very unflattering.
Elissa Yost oh, I'm sorry you're struggling with dress that you don't even like :( After reading your issue, if it were me, I would do the next size up. Yes, it's a little extra work to do two adjustments but I think you'll get a less distorted bodice. And you can always choose a different size for the skirt portion so, hopefully, you'll have less to alter. don't forget to make your muslin to test your fit and good luck!
Professor Pincushion Well, we had the same thought. I did go the next size up and basically doing a size 18 bust and a whooping size 22 waist. I believe it's working out. This kills me because I wear a size 14 ready made -- I know ready made and patterns are like apples and oranges, but I don't usually make clothing for myself and had no idea how off they can be. I did just recently read an article about how the three major pattern makers are still using measurement from around WWII. Frustrating!!! Yes I will do a mock up. I found you on FB and asked the same question (no need to reply). Thanks for the assist
Elissa Yost yup, I've noticed that my vintage patterns have pretty much the same sizing as currently exists today. For modern days, it's a little jarring to see yourself in such a big number, but I kind of like that pattern companies chose a standard and maintained it, even among different brands. It's the ready-to-wear garments that keeps changing things up on us and each brand can choose whatever sizing system it wants to use as there no industry standard, which is why I may wear a size 4 in one brand but a size 6 in another.
Professor Pincushion You have an excellent point!!!! I never thought of pattern sizing quite that way before, but I sure have been frustrated with ready made sizes (particularly after this last Christmas). Like it or not, altering patterns is a always going to be necessary because all patterns cannot possibly be made to fit all body types. The pivot method you have demonstrated is much easier than the cut and split method and I'm sure I'll be using it again (hopefully with smaller numbers though). Thank you for the assistance and it's been nice chatting. Elissa
Your video's are great but i have a questoin. I want to make a skirt but the pattern only have 2 parts (both parts must be cut on the fold), do i still have to divide it by 4 or 2?
Klaske Adema you'll still divide by 4. Just like my example, you're patterns are just half of the front or half of the back, because they're symmetrical and it saves on paper to print half and then place on a fold. So you're only seeing 1 side seam on the front skirt pattern but once you cut it on the fold of fabric, you'll then have 2 and the same with the back so 2+2=4. Hope this helps. :)
This was so helpful, thank you!!
Hello once again I'm trying get the bodymeasurment printout paper of the lady you to show us to increase or decrease all your pattern vidio.
sorry, we don't offer any printout associated with this tutorial
thank you!!! I will look
wow good teaching thnx for sharing now I can sew for other ppl now
dorothy davis Thanks! Glad to help :)
I can’t believe this is 10 years old! Anyway how do i do it if there is a bus dart?
Hello ,have a question ,can i use the pivot method using Centimeter instead of Inches would it work the same or not .
yes, it's the same method and you would still divide by 4. :)
Could you do a tutorial on adjusting a pattern for people (like myself) that the waist line tends to go up at an angle from front to back. My waist isnt straight across. If I stand side ways and put a string around my waist the string is higher in the back than the front.
Luv hmmm...what you can do is adjust the front and back pattern separately. So measure from side seam to side seam on the front of the body and then side seam to side seam on the back of the body. So each adjustments will be slightly different for the front and back pattern. Definitely create a muslin though, after making your adjustment, to see if you need to do any further tweaks. I hope this helps
when you make the adjustment on pattern, does this include the seam also? or do you have to add in a 5/8 seam?
if your pattern already includes the seam, then you don't have to worry about adding it again.
Excellent! Thank you!
You're in luck! We're releasing decrease waist sometime this week. :)
How would this be done on a pattern with Princess seams? Would you alter just the side front and side back of the pattern or all of the pieces (center front and center back included)?
ReneeYBoyd If it's not a great deal that you're adding, I would just alter the side front/side back pattern pieces and keep it easy
Hi...I bought (and cut out the pattern pieces..so cannot return) a pattern that by measurements is significantly smaller (10 inches in waist and 10 inches in hips) and the company (New Look # 6312) does not make a plus size in this skirt design. It has side panels. How do I upsize the pattern? I am so upset as I haven't sewn in some time by patterns and forgot the sizes aren't by clothing size....and I have already purchased the material too. Please help!
Sherry McBrayer I answered on your fb question. I hope it helps
hi can I use the patten of my measurement to extend the measurement to some one bigger than me using the same formula with ought using professional patten like that of yours?
If your a size 10 and they need a size 12 then you need to either get a pattern in their size or do pattern grading on your current pattern. This technique is not meant for that as you're only altering one aspect. Pattern grading is taking the pattern and increasing the whole thing into another size. We don't have a tutorial on this but you can read about it here: www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all
Thank you 😊
I'm going by the same body measurements scale for a fitted shirt I'm making, but fit in a size 12 in waist size, size 16 bust size, and size 18 hip and back-neck to waist size. The pattern I'm using is only for sizes 18-22 so I cut out the pattern for the size 18 but now have to reduce the waist measurement by 9 inches without altering the rest. Is this too much to alter and should I just make my own pattern instead?
impavidus anisoptera there might be some distortion since I imagine there's just a bodice covering all these areas, (bust, waist, hip), but you can still try. Just be sure to make a muslin of your shirt so you can test to see if it fits or needs more alterations
Thank You, for the site, but it clear we are not talking about the same thing. I am speaking of lady figure use on paper. I wonder if it was a free pintout.
I'm looking at Simplicity pattern 1777. Would increasing the waistline work for a maternity belly?
I would say yes, but I would test it out by making a muslin first by using cheap fabric and basting pieces together to see if you like the fit.