I've had one of these for years and yes, they can grind out of square ,i remember spending days trying to figure it out. As it turns out i found you have to clamp the support bar in a vice and bend it up until you get the correct angle, I guess this is to compensate for the sloppy fit in the housing and other factors. Once you get it sorted it's a good unit and for the money punches above it weight. One point to note when you bend the bar have it clamped so you only bend the bar just before point where the threaded mounting bar begins. The two mounting bars need to remain unchanged in the bending process.
UPDATE: Just received the Tormek SE-77 Square Edge Jig (spares parts available), what an improvement over the Sheppach pressed steel model,far superior,very rigid, fits the Tiger support bar perfectly,but you can't use the end stop on bar which needs to be a inch longer,which I'm hoping the Tormek US-103 Universal Support will solve this, still waiting for it to arrive.Will add further comments when it comes.
Just got the Scheppach Tiger 2500. Annoying that the grinding wheel loosens itself on rotation. You would have thought they would have used a reverse thread. Must say that I didn't fall in love with this unit straight away, but after doing a bit on it - and getting used to its operation, I find it quite good. Great for chisels, planes, scissors, knives etc. Dangerously sharp.
Thanks for video, I just unboxed my new wheel yesterday had all the same problems as you but tbh I managed to sharpen 12 chisels and my block plane blade in an hour and a half . I happy with the finish for the cost of the tool and I’ll be able to work on hardwood and achieve a nice finish.
Currently I can buy this machine for €99, and a Tormek T4 for €450. I have ordered the Scheppach. I fully realize what I am buying, and I'm quite happy to do some fettling to improve the performance. It will do what I need it for, I'm pretty confident (crap quality and all)!
The moment you stop comparing your machine to a Tormek you will start enjoying your machine!!!... Regard it as an addition to your workshop!!!... Low speed water cooled grinder, that's what it is!... Nothing more, nothing less!... Most of all, it's not a Tormek!... As long as you compare it with a Tormek you will be unhappy! When you start to appreciate it as an additional tool in your workshop, you will kiss it good night every evening!!! (BTW I've been dreaming about Tormek for decades)... Unfortunately I can't afford a Tormek
Thanks for your honest review - Love to get a Tormek but they are so expensive here in Australia and the Scheppach's are so much more affordable - Now am really confused about what to buy (what I can afford and what I would like) Still it is a good little machine (not great but it's ok)
1. Set the chisel in the jig and clamp securely. 2. Use the fine adjustment wheel on the horizontal bar to increase or decrease the elevation of the chisel until the correct angle is achieved. 3. Tighten the clamp on the horizontal bar to lock it to the correct height. 4. Always always ensure that your stone is in a water bath when sharpening or attempting to true your stone otherwise you will cause excessive and unnecessary wear.
The stone you used to true up the wheel with the two sides is actually a grading stone to change the grit of the wheel to about 1000 grit and back to 220 👍👍
Thanks for your good video and patience with this tool. Few things are perfect it has to be said especially when making to a price. The good thing about using a wheel like this is you get a concave bevel and that makes resharpening by hand so much easier. This is how James Krenov does it. Although he grinds by a hand powered grinder on a much smaller wheel, with a home made jig, which is so much slower so no need for water. You can keep a blade very sharp this way for days before having to regrind.
Look at the Tormek SE-77 Square Edge Jig,has a fine adjustment for a precise 90° edge,brilliant tool, can get all the spares for it, like replacement bushings,etc, It works with T4/T3 so I just bought one,thinking it should fit Tiger 2000S,as it's support bar diameter is approx 12mm (1/2") , same as the Tormek T3/T4/1200 models, also bought the Tormek US-103 Universal Support as it has micro adjust feature, to replace my Tiger one,which is slightly out of true.. Tormek US-105 Universal Support is also same diameter 12mm,no idea if there any other differences between the two models.
Problems with this review: -Wet stone when spinning otherwise you will have balance, staining and trueing issues. - use single point for trueing -Grading stone is to grade not to true or level, clean grit off stone and grade courseness , hold it perpendicular to stone. Don't drag DTI across stone face it wrecks the dti.
You need your work to be central in the jig. This has caused the misaligned bevel as you have it adjacent to one of the tightening screws which will skew the angle.
04:45 I'm on board with the diamond trueing the wheel but you should have that stone soaked and water in the basin beneath. You not doing it wrong, just imprecisely as dry trueing has less feel. Speaking off feel, freehand... you'll be chasing the changes you make. The brick is a freehand tool because it covers the entire surface at once.
Good points. Did this dry as I wanted to be able to see what was coming off for the camera. Would use water ordinarily. A wider diamond truing tool would be great if available. Thank for your comment.
Thank you for your review. I have also found the set up difficult and hit and miss. with poor chisel sharpening. not a precise piece of equipment. based on my experience I should have paid more for a better quality machine. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
There are a few things to address RE your review. #1, You absolutely can not true a wheel with a hand held wheel dresser, it must be held at a fixed point and the human body isn't capable of doing that. Holding it against the tool rest would help but it's still free to move about. #2, You're holding the stone grader incorrectly, it is supposed to be held across the wheel and at the tool rest for a modicum of control. It's meant to change the characteristics of the stone rather than true it (ie) coarse or fine gradings by using the appropriate side. I agree entirely RE the shonky tool rest not being square to the wheel, it really needs both legs to have been threaded for vernier adjustment and I may yet do that on my son's. Regardless, it's a hobby machine only in my view, lacking any sort of quality. The leather polishing wheel on mine had a serious lump it it and the machine still makes a thump thump noise in the rotating assembly (loaded or not) despite a bit of fettling. Most amusing is the German branding yet the made in China sticker is readily seen.
Good points. Yes, the stone is for grading, i'd forgotten that. However, I've never used it, really seems a bit of a gimmick. Like many things today they are 'designed' in **** but made in China. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Where I buy it, you can buy a truing stone. You could probably also use a diamond stone. But a stone is also something very different from the wheel dresser. When you, as I, don't have money for expensive tools, you learn how to setup even the jankiest crap. In that regard the Scheppach isn't half bad! I even took apart a pair of grip pliers I bought on sale yesterday, corrected some bends in the grip (I think they had met with a terrible accident somewhere in the production line!), and put the lever that opens it back with my cheap riveting pliers. It works. My point is. The more I fettle, the more I learn. And I think people expect too much from new tools. Most of everything is made in China these days and are hit or miss.
p.s. is the on off switch on the rear of the machine? or are you trying to operate it from the back..?/..turning the machine 180 degrees might help with all of the points mentioned previously
I’d say he has it that way for a reason , stropping is always away from you so you don’t cut into the leather . The wheel can go either way , knife ,chisel etc going with the direction of the wheel takes less off and more precise and the other way takes material off quicker .
Hi I have the same grinder with all the same problems especially around the out of square bevels on my chisels. I would not recommend the grinder to a friend. I now use a hand jig and a set of diamond plates slow and steady at a fraction of the cost. I should off load the grinder on eBay
Mate. You can't just push down on a magnetic base on a nonferrous surface and expect to get an accurate reading. 8 thou? Pfiff, your pulse can make that much difference...
I have this and have been hesitant to use it. If I grip both wheels and shake them a bit, it seems extremely sloppy, a lot of play in the shaft. When I got it, there was a metal spacer that is maybe about 1/4" (7mm) that was loose in the box. I'm thinking it came off of somewhere, but I can't figure out where, although presumably somewhere on the shaft as that would 'tighten it up'. I called the company and they had no idea, but suggested that the spacer was not related to the machine and just got put in the box in error. So, I guess my question is, is your machine sloppy like that also? If not, any ideas? Thanks!
Hello NacNac, to answer your question, it depends on the users requirements. I think the machine has limitations, but if you are using it for general purpose sharpening then yes, save the money. If you are looking for square, true and perfect edges for your plane blades and chisels, because you are a cabinet maker for example, I would look for something else. A machine with better guides, built with greater precision will give better results, faster with minimum fuss. However, for the occasional user, it will give you a sharp edge. And for chisels, if you watch what you are doing and work with the machine, you'll get a sharp tool. But it will take longer to achieve than a better machine. I hope this helps answer your question. Please subscribe to help the channel grow. Keep safe.
Have to say I think u need to look at ur technique. The u r using to true up ur stone is to put a different grade on the stone. Couldn't are to watch the hole video. I have a wet stone grinder in my work shop and have to say if u know what ur doing they r far better than other sharpening systems out there
hi you presumably have a manual, but looking at the machines forwarf facing tool bar mounts, I think you would get better results using those and have the wheel driving away from the chisel bevel edge rather than towards it!, which I think might be pulling the chisel in and distorting the clamp and causing the poor grind , also if you try to grin a slightly steeper bevel it will drag the chisel in, bend the tool mount and or shatter the stone depending on motor power... the whole process just looks very awkward and dangerous!?
The scheppach promo videos show the operator standing on the other side of the machine, but the wheel still turns upwards towards the chisel point. I found it easier to see the front of the chisel and to check the amount being removed if I stand as shown. Just my choice. The wheel turns fairly slowly and I've never had a problem with it catching or rejecting the chisel in any way. This video just reflects my personal observations. Thanks for your comment.
I think you're being overtly negative about a sharpener that is a fifth of the price of a Tormek (once you've bought the accessories). For standard carpentry chisels, planes, blades etc. this will be fine, you cut paper with it. The jig is a bit shonky as bent from flat sheet but could be flattened.
Hi Robleake, the video is an in-depth assessment of the machine by a consumer and my findings. It's just to inform people of all the possible hiccups they might find while using it. Your comments about its cost and relative value to the Tormek I agree with and have said as much in the video. Not sure it matters which side you stand. I prefer to see the chisel being cut from that side and the stropping wheel is turning away from you so the tool won't dig in and cause kickback. Just my preference. Thanks for your comment, keep safe.
Hi Jimmy, yes, as the wheel wears down, the angle relationship between it and the chisel tip changes, but this is compensated by positioning the bevel of the tool further forward. As the jig sits on the wheel it references and compensates for the changing diameter. Also, the bevel is ground concave as it is shaped by the wheel, this becomes more 'dished out' the more the wheel wears away. Grinding on properly prepared flat oil/water stones gives a better overall finish imo, but takes much longer. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your question and subscribe if you feel inclined.
What is the paste you put on the leather wheel? I make you right, it is a temperamental. Its not that cheap either. If i put the slightest bit of pressure on, the wheel slips and stops turning. I wish I'd spent a bit more and got a quality machine.
Hi Nick, it's a stropping compound used to get a finely polished edge and remove the burr. You can find similar product on amazon. Here's the link: www.amazon.co.uk/Compound-Tormek-Sharpening-Grinders-leather/dp/B00149DIBE
@@dembydish I've used Autosol metal polish for years,works very well & much cheaper to buy than honing paste. And some wet sharpeners makers acutally include a tube of Autosol. Peek 33700 Metal Cleaner Polishing Compound Paste should also work.
A bit late to the party here. Hopefully someone can still help. I got my scheppach few months back and ignored any need to true up the stone. Now in a really bad state. I cant find any site that sells the original scheppach truing tool. Not amazon, ebay, not any retail in the whole wide world, but apparently its plentiful in Australia -. and none of them ship internationally....
Hello, I purchased the diamond truing jig when I bought the 2000S. I used it only once to true the original wheel that came with the machine. It proved to be rather useless in my opinion. The diamond was worn out before the wheel was trued. Also, I found it was gouging lines into the wheel and was not efficient in smoothing across the surface while using. I basically gave up on it finding it very overpriced and not very useful. The method I show around the 5.00 mark was easy to use and very inexpensive, giving fine results. I'd suggest you try it before spending lots of money tracking down the original jig. Apply the diamond bar gently and don't try to make full contact at first. Let the wheel come to the diamond surface and you'll take a little bit off with each rotation until the tool makes constant contact. tTen the wheel will be true. Go slow and be patient, it will true in time. If you need to buy another (depending on how bad your wheel is) you'll still come out on top financially by a large margin. Thanks for your comment and good luck.
@@dembydish Thank you for the info. I thought going for the original dressing tool would yield better results, over some generic or knockoff. It proved to be impossible to get my hands on it as even scheppach doesn't sell it on their site. With your valuable information, I'll certainly rather look for a universal truing tool, like the one you used. Cheers
It is either 200 or 250, I have heard both. You use the supplied stone to bring it to about 1000. So, in a given session, you want to do all your rough grinding first, then convert the wheel to 1,000 with the stone and do everything again. If you aren't doing beater chisels, once you get everything to 1,000 you can leave the wheel there and go from that point in the future.
Could i suggest you use a large diamond sintered masonary cutting disk which is pretty true in flatness, place a layer of tape across the machine bar after checking square to stone as you did earlier then holding the edges of the disk on the bar and the diamond band in contact with stone wheel dress your wheel, it worked for me as i could hold the cutting disk steady enough to get a near perfect concentric wheel square to the side without removing too much of the stone, i do the same to my bench grinder stones
That's a good idea Eugene and definitely worth exploring. The cutting disk will of course be much more rugged and cut better than the tool I demonstrated. Thank you for your suggestion and for leaving this comment.
It sharpens chisel's, What is this precision fuss about just do what it's ment for and get on with your wood work, and stop complaining, it's a good tool for any diy user ****** 👍
Had bought one but delivered it back and paid the price for a tomek 4t although i could get all equipment less than half the price with Scheppach all just because of this bad review.
I have returned one machine back to the firm and received another one. This to will be going back. It’s very cheap and plastic. The wheel is out of true and the warp is out of control. I would definitely not recommend this machine.
You did everything wrong in this video. The wheel should always be wet when in use, even for truing / grading. You set the chisel/blade in the holder and then move the support bar up/down to set the angle required. Check the Tormek videos on how to use jigs etc and life will be easier.
Bottom line... Don't buy a knockoff Tormek and compare it with a Tormek!... You get what you pay for!!! If you want a Tormek, buy a Tormek!... If you buy a knockoff Tormek, don't compare and don't complain!
UPDATE on my last comment: I have received my Tiger 2000s unit today, and I am pleasantly surprised. It seems they have been taking note of complaints, because this machine now includes the following: A threaded "micro adjuster" on the one leg of the tool rest, a "reverse" thread on the shaft for the stone wheel, better tolerances for the tool holder "bearings" on the tool rest (no "wobble" really), and what seems like a much better shiny finish on the tool rest itself. The stone is slightly off centre, but due to the slow speed of rotation, it is possible for the tool to "follow" the surface of the stone without difficulty. To be honest, it feels in that respect just like my old Tormek T4 that I had a few decades ago. A Tormek diamond truing tool is however probably in my future.. I remember that the Tormek had a duty cycle that was quite limited (30 minutes?), but this machine has a "one shift" duty cycle, which is nice. Sharpening results are very good. One negative: the drive shaft of the motor on my particular machine tends to rest on the rubber drive wheel (underneath the honing wheel) when the machine is left unused: even if I slack off the tension knob. This leaves an indent in the rubber wheel which results in a “thumping” noise when running the machine. I have rigged up a simple cure consisting of a piece of string tied to the motor, and lead outside the machine to be secured with a cleat. This ensures that the drive shaft is clear of the rubber wheel when not is use. Final note: I have a Tormek planer blade sharpening jig (a stunningly beautiful piece of kit) that I was hoping I could deploy on this machine as a jig for all sorts of things. Sadly no, the distance between the tool rest "leg" sockets is just a few mm different. A real shame.
Thank you Chris for this update, good luck with your Tiger 2000s may your tools always have a keen edge over the competition. Keep safe, and thanks for your comment.
So basically, it's a piece of crap where nothing is true or square or solidly mounted and it needs constant adjustment. I think I'll stick to my diamond plates...
I've had one of these for years and yes, they can grind out of square ,i remember spending days trying to figure it out. As it turns out i found you have to clamp the support bar in a vice and bend it up until you get the correct angle, I guess this is to compensate for the sloppy fit in the housing and other factors. Once you get it sorted it's a good unit and for the money punches above it weight. One point to note when you bend the bar have it clamped so you only bend the bar just before point where the threaded mounting bar begins. The two mounting bars need to remain unchanged in the bending process.
UPDATE: Just received the Tormek SE-77 Square Edge Jig (spares parts available), what an improvement over the Sheppach pressed steel model,far superior,very rigid, fits the Tiger support bar perfectly,but you can't use the end stop on bar which needs to be a inch longer,which I'm hoping the Tormek US-103 Universal Support will solve this, still waiting for it to arrive.Will add further comments when it comes.
Just got the Scheppach Tiger 2500. Annoying that the grinding wheel loosens itself on rotation. You would have thought they would have used a reverse thread. Must say that I didn't fall in love with this unit straight away, but after doing a bit on it - and getting used to its operation, I find it quite good. Great for chisels, planes, scissors, knives etc. Dangerously sharp.
Thanks for video, I just unboxed my new wheel yesterday had all the same problems as you but tbh I managed to sharpen 12 chisels and my block plane blade in an hour and a half . I happy with the finish for the cost of the tool and I’ll be able to work on hardwood and achieve a nice finish.
Glad to hear it. It definitely works. Curious to know if your wheel was true and round from the box or if you had movement. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish no it seemed ok ,
Currently I can buy this machine for €99, and a Tormek T4 for €450. I have ordered the Scheppach. I fully realize what I am buying, and I'm quite happy to do some fettling to improve the performance. It will do what I need it for, I'm pretty confident (crap quality and all)!
Great review, I recently got one of these second hand and the wheel definitely needs truing! Thanks.
You are welcome. Thank you for your comment.
The moment you stop comparing your machine to a Tormek you will start enjoying your machine!!!... Regard it as an addition to your workshop!!!... Low speed water cooled grinder, that's what it is!... Nothing more, nothing less!... Most of all, it's not a Tormek!... As long as you compare it with a Tormek you will be unhappy! When you start to appreciate it as an additional tool in your workshop, you will kiss it good night every evening!!! (BTW I've been dreaming about Tormek for decades)... Unfortunately I can't afford a Tormek
Hello Fredrik, I am not comparing it to a Tormek I've never had one in the shop. The video just details my findings to those who may be interested.
Thanks for your honest review - Love to get a Tormek but they are so expensive here in Australia and the Scheppach's are so much more affordable - Now am really confused about what to buy (what I can afford and what I would like) Still it is a good little machine (not great but it's ok)
1. Set the chisel in the jig and clamp securely. 2. Use the fine adjustment wheel on the horizontal bar to increase or decrease the elevation of the chisel until the correct angle is achieved. 3. Tighten the clamp on the horizontal bar to lock it to the correct height. 4. Always always ensure that your stone is in a water bath when sharpening or attempting to true your stone otherwise you will cause excessive and unnecessary wear.
The stone you used to true up the wheel with the two sides is actually a grading stone to change the grit of the wheel to about 1000 grit and back to 220 👍👍
Yes, thanks for pointing that out. I tried to see if it could flatten out the wheel, but it didn't do much.
@@dembydish I had also tried and failed 😔
Thanks for this video, was about to buy one second hand, I won't bother now. Thanks.
Glad I could help.
Thanks for your good video and patience with this tool. Few things are perfect it has to be said especially when making to a price. The good thing about using a wheel like this is you get a concave bevel and that makes resharpening by hand so much easier. This is how James Krenov does it. Although he grinds by a hand powered grinder on a much smaller wheel, with a home made jig, which is so much slower so no need for water. You can keep a blade very sharp this way for days before having to regrind.
Hi Joseph, thank you for your interesting comment. Haven't heard of James Krenov, but I'll see if I can find him on TH-cam. Keep safe.
Thanks for your review , I won’t waste the money on this 👍
Hi Ricci, glad I could help
Look at the Tormek SE-77 Square Edge Jig,has a fine adjustment for a precise 90° edge,brilliant tool, can get all the spares for it, like replacement bushings,etc, It works with T4/T3 so I just bought one,thinking it should fit Tiger 2000S,as it's support bar diameter is approx 12mm (1/2") , same as the Tormek T3/T4/1200 models, also bought the Tormek US-103 Universal Support as it has micro adjust feature, to replace my Tiger one,which is slightly out of true..
Tormek US-105 Universal Support is also same diameter 12mm,no idea if there any other differences between the two models.
Thank you for the information. It will be valuable to other viewers. Cheers.
If i use separate jig, would it be wise to sharpen drill bits or should i better buy something like BG200W?
Problems with this review: -Wet stone when spinning otherwise you will have balance, staining and trueing issues. - use single point for trueing -Grading stone is to grade not to true or level, clean grit off stone and grade courseness , hold it perpendicular to stone. Don't drag DTI across stone face it wrecks the dti.
You need your work to be central in the jig. This has caused the misaligned bevel as you have it adjacent to one of the tightening screws which will skew the angle.
04:45 I'm on board with the diamond trueing the wheel but you should have that stone soaked and water in the basin beneath. You not doing it wrong, just imprecisely as dry trueing has less feel. Speaking off feel, freehand... you'll be chasing the changes you make. The brick is a freehand tool because it covers the entire surface at once.
Good points. Did this dry as I wanted to be able to see what was coming off for the camera. Would use water ordinarily. A wider diamond truing tool would be great if available. Thank for your comment.
Thank you for your review. I have also found the set up difficult and hit and miss. with poor chisel sharpening. not a precise piece of equipment. based on my experience I should have paid more for a better quality machine. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
Tormek make a nice truing device but not sure if it would fit on your bar
if you fiddle with things and improve things you make it work ,(no problems ) but if you want to use it right away without any adjustment by a Tormak
There are a few things to address RE your review. #1, You absolutely can not true a wheel with a hand held wheel dresser, it must be held at a fixed point and the human body isn't capable of doing that. Holding it against the tool rest would help but it's still free to move about. #2, You're holding the stone grader incorrectly, it is supposed to be held across the wheel and at the tool rest for a modicum of control. It's meant to change the characteristics of the stone rather than true it (ie) coarse or fine gradings by using the appropriate side. I agree entirely RE the shonky tool rest not being square to the wheel, it really needs both legs to have been threaded for vernier adjustment and I may yet do that on my son's. Regardless, it's a hobby machine only in my view, lacking any sort of quality. The leather polishing wheel on mine had a serious lump it it and the machine still makes a thump thump noise in the rotating assembly (loaded or not) despite a bit of fettling. Most amusing is the German branding yet the made in China sticker is readily seen.
Reviewing a review! Really?
Good points. Yes, the stone is for grading, i'd forgotten that. However, I've never used it, really seems a bit of a gimmick. Like many things today they are 'designed' in **** but made in China. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish The gimmick is the same as used by Tormec to polish the sharpened edge, So maybe not a gimmick
@@dembydish Where I buy it, you can buy a truing stone. You could probably also use a diamond stone. But a stone is also something very different from the wheel dresser. When you, as I, don't have money for expensive tools, you learn how to setup even the jankiest crap. In that regard the Scheppach isn't half bad! I even took apart a pair of grip pliers I bought on sale yesterday, corrected some bends in the grip (I think they had met with a terrible accident somewhere in the production line!), and put the lever that opens it back with my cheap riveting pliers. It works. My point is. The more I fettle, the more I learn. And I think people expect too much from new tools. Most of everything is made in China these days and are hit or miss.
p.s. is the on off switch on the rear of the machine? or are you trying to operate it from the back..?/..turning the machine 180 degrees might help with all of the points mentioned previously
I’d say he has it that way for a reason , stropping is always away from you so you don’t cut into the leather . The wheel can go either way , knife ,chisel etc going with the direction of the wheel takes less off and more precise and the other way takes material off quicker .
Just orderd the Güde 250GNS…
How many things sharpened in 1 year with it ?
Hello, I've never sharpened any knives with this machine. Only use it for chisels and plane blades.
Thank you for showing the wiggly dodgy slide! I suspected this from the ad pictures, you proved it now.
Hi I have the same grinder with all the same problems especially around the out of square bevels on my chisels. I would not recommend the grinder to a friend. I now use a hand jig and a set of diamond plates slow and steady at a fraction of the cost. I should off load the grinder on eBay
Hi Michael, well thanks for your honesty. Perhaps we all got gypped just a little. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe if you feel inclined.
There is a rotating button on the back of the grinder. What is the use of that button?
Mate. You can't just push down on a magnetic base on a nonferrous surface and expect to get an accurate reading. 8 thou? Pfiff, your pulse can make that much difference...
I have this and have been hesitant to use it. If I grip both wheels and shake them a bit, it seems extremely sloppy, a lot of play in the shaft. When I got it, there was a metal spacer that is maybe about 1/4" (7mm) that was loose in the box. I'm thinking it came off of somewhere, but I can't figure out where, although presumably somewhere on the shaft as that would 'tighten it up'. I called the company and they had no idea, but suggested that the spacer was not related to the machine and just got put in the box in error.
So, I guess my question is, is your machine sloppy like that also? If not, any ideas? Thanks!
Hi Thanks for sharing your experience with this product. Would you still recommend it for an occasional user?
Hello NacNac, to answer your question, it depends on the users requirements. I think the machine has limitations, but if you are using it for general purpose sharpening then yes, save the money. If you are looking for square, true and perfect edges for your plane blades and chisels, because you are a cabinet maker for example, I would look for something else. A machine with better guides, built with greater precision will give better results, faster with minimum fuss.
However, for the occasional user, it will give you a sharp edge. And for chisels, if you watch what you are doing and work with the machine, you'll get a sharp tool. But it will take longer to achieve than a better machine. I hope this helps answer your question. Please subscribe to help the channel grow. Keep safe.
I just love my tormek, but if u just going to sharpen a knife once in a while I guess such a thing could work
Have to say I think u need to look at ur technique. The u r using to true up ur stone is to put a different grade on the stone. Couldn't are to watch the hole video. I have a wet stone grinder in my work shop and have to say if u know what ur doing they r far better than other sharpening systems out there
hi you presumably have a manual, but looking at the machines forwarf facing tool bar mounts, I think you would get better results using those and have the wheel driving away from the chisel bevel edge rather than towards it!, which I think might be pulling the chisel in and distorting the clamp and causing the poor grind , also if you try to grin a slightly steeper bevel it will drag the chisel in, bend the tool mount and or shatter the stone depending on motor power... the whole process just looks very awkward and dangerous!?
The scheppach promo videos show the operator standing on the other side of the machine, but the wheel still turns upwards towards the chisel point. I found it easier to see the front of the chisel and to check the amount being removed if I stand as shown. Just my choice. The wheel turns fairly slowly and I've never had a problem with it catching or rejecting the chisel in any way. This video just reflects my personal observations. Thanks for your comment.
the truing brick is not for flatening the stone ,
I think you're being overtly negative about a sharpener that is a fifth of the price of a Tormek (once you've bought the accessories). For standard carpentry chisels, planes, blades etc. this will be fine, you cut paper with it. The jig is a bit shonky as bent from flat sheet but could be flattened.
Also why are you using it bsckwards?
Hi Robleake, the video is an in-depth assessment of the machine by a consumer and my findings. It's just to inform people of all the possible hiccups they might find while using it. Your comments about its cost and relative value to the Tormek I agree with and have said as much in the video. Not sure it matters which side you stand. I prefer to see the chisel being cut from that side and the stropping wheel is turning away from you so the tool won't dig in and cause kickback. Just my preference. Thanks for your comment, keep safe.
Wouldn't the angle change as the stone wears down? That plastic angle jig has a set radius, surely would become useless eventually.
Hi Jimmy, yes, as the wheel wears down, the angle relationship between it and the chisel tip changes, but this is compensated by positioning the bevel of the tool further forward. As the jig sits on the wheel it references and compensates for the changing diameter. Also, the bevel is ground concave as it is shaped by the wheel, this becomes more 'dished out' the more the wheel wears away. Grinding on properly prepared flat oil/water stones gives a better overall finish imo, but takes much longer. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your question and subscribe if you feel inclined.
What is the paste you put on the leather wheel?
I make you right, it is a temperamental. Its not that cheap either. If i put the slightest bit of pressure on, the wheel slips and stops turning. I wish I'd spent a bit more and got a quality machine.
Hi Nick, it's a stropping compound used to get a finely polished edge and remove the burr. You can find similar product on amazon. Here's the link:
www.amazon.co.uk/Compound-Tormek-Sharpening-Grinders-leather/dp/B00149DIBE
@@dembydish I've used Autosol metal polish for years,works very well & much cheaper to buy than honing paste.
And some wet sharpeners makers acutally include a tube of Autosol.
Peek 33700 Metal Cleaner Polishing Compound Paste should also work.
@@stuartandrews4344 Good information. Thank you for your comment.
A bit late to the party here. Hopefully someone can still help. I got my scheppach few months back and ignored any need to true up the stone. Now in a really bad state. I cant find any site that sells the original scheppach truing tool. Not amazon, ebay, not any retail in the whole wide world, but apparently its plentiful in Australia -. and none of them ship internationally....
Hello, I purchased the diamond truing jig when I bought the 2000S. I used it only once to true the original wheel that came with the machine. It proved to be rather useless in my opinion. The diamond was worn out before the wheel was trued. Also, I found it was gouging lines into the wheel and was not efficient in smoothing across the surface while using. I basically gave up on it finding it very overpriced and not very useful.
The method I show around the 5.00 mark was easy to use and very inexpensive, giving fine results. I'd suggest you try it before spending lots of money tracking down the original jig. Apply the diamond bar gently and don't try to make full contact at first. Let the wheel come to the diamond surface and you'll take a little bit off with each rotation until the tool makes constant contact. tTen the wheel will be true. Go slow and be patient, it will true in time. If you need to buy another (depending on how bad your wheel is) you'll still come out on top financially by a large margin. Thanks for your comment and good luck.
@@dembydish Thank you for the info. I thought going for the original dressing tool would yield better results, over some generic or knockoff. It proved to be impossible to get my hands on it as even scheppach doesn't sell it on their site.
With your valuable information, I'll certainly rather look for a universal truing tool, like the one you used.
Cheers
What is the granulation of the stone?
It is either 200 or 250, I have heard both. You use the supplied stone to bring it to about 1000. So, in a given session, you want to do all your rough grinding first, then convert the wheel to 1,000 with the stone and do everything again. If you aren't doing beater chisels, once you get everything to 1,000 you can leave the wheel there and go from that point in the future.
Could i suggest you use a large diamond sintered masonary cutting disk which is pretty true in flatness, place a layer of tape across the machine bar after checking square to stone as you did earlier then holding the edges of the disk on the bar and the diamond band in contact with stone wheel dress your wheel, it worked for me as i could hold the cutting disk steady enough to get a near perfect concentric wheel square to the side without removing too much of the stone, i do the same to my bench grinder stones
That's a good idea Eugene and definitely worth exploring. The cutting disk will of course be much more rugged and cut better than the tool I demonstrated. Thank you for your suggestion and for leaving this comment.
@@dembydish try use only the non segmented disk, as your stone is so wide,
It sharpens chisel's, What is this precision fuss about just do what it's ment for and get on with your wood work, and stop complaining, it's a good tool for any diy user ****** 👍
Had bought one but delivered it back and paid the price for a tomek 4t although i could get all equipment less than half the price with Scheppach all just because of this bad review.
I hope you enjoy your new Tomek 4T, it'll out last the Scheppach and give you better quality results. Thanks for your comment. Good luck.
I have returned one machine back to the firm and received another one. This to will be going back. It’s very cheap and plastic. The wheel is out of true and the warp is out of control. I would definitely not recommend this machine.
Sorry to hear about your problems, I agree they're not a prescision tool. Good luck and thank you for your comment.
You did everything wrong in this video. The wheel should always be wet when in use, even for truing / grading. You set the chisel/blade in the holder and then move the support bar up/down to set the angle required. Check the Tormek videos on how to use jigs etc and life will be easier.
Well, it is 20% price of the Tormek
I got one of these , the moment you put a knife or chisel on it , It stops, Well under powered. 😪😥😂🤣
Yes, you have to work gently! Thank for your comment.
Thanks for your reply , but im going to sell it , I HOPE 👍
Bottom line... Don't buy a knockoff Tormek and compare it with a Tormek!... You get what you pay for!!! If you want a Tormek, buy a Tormek!... If you buy a knockoff Tormek, don't compare and don't complain!
UPDATE on my last comment:
I have received my Tiger 2000s unit today, and I am pleasantly surprised. It
seems they have been taking note of complaints, because this machine now
includes the following: A threaded "micro adjuster" on the one leg of
the tool rest, a "reverse" thread on the shaft for the stone wheel,
better tolerances for the tool holder "bearings" on the tool rest (no
"wobble" really), and what seems like a much better shiny finish on
the tool rest itself. The stone is slightly off centre, but due to the slow
speed of rotation, it is possible for the tool to "follow" the
surface of the stone without difficulty. To be honest, it feels in that respect
just like my old Tormek T4 that I had a few decades ago. A Tormek diamond
truing tool is however probably in my future.. I remember that the Tormek had a
duty cycle that was quite limited (30 minutes?), but this machine has a
"one shift" duty cycle, which is nice. Sharpening results are very
good. One negative: the drive shaft of
the motor on my particular machine tends to rest on the rubber drive wheel
(underneath the honing wheel) when the machine is left unused: even if I slack
off the tension knob. This leaves an
indent in the rubber wheel which results in a “thumping” noise when running the
machine. I have rigged up a simple cure consisting of a piece of string tied to
the motor, and lead outside the machine to be secured with a cleat. This ensures that the drive shaft is clear of
the rubber wheel when not is use. Final note: I have a Tormek planer blade
sharpening jig (a stunningly beautiful piece of kit) that I was hoping I could
deploy on this machine as a jig for all sorts of things. Sadly no, the distance
between the tool rest "leg" sockets is just a few mm different. A
real shame.
Thank you Chris for this update, good luck with your Tiger 2000s may your tools always have a keen edge over the competition. Keep safe, and thanks for your comment.
The wheel isn’t square either so you can’t get a straight edge it is a piece of junk I bought one and regretted it
So basically, it's a piece of crap where nothing is true or square or solidly mounted and it needs constant adjustment.
I think I'll stick to my diamond plates...
Stop wining or get a Tormek for 600 bucks 😁😁😁
I see alot of people really pushing down on the leather.. there's is no need whatsoever.. all you need to do is rest the chisel on there
Pressing too hard will round off the edge, which is the opposite result to what you want