Do you get a significant shift in point of impact when shooting from an bench vs shooting offhand? I hear longrifles are sensitive to how they're held.
This is like a gold nugget, I have TVM early Lancaster that Matt built for me after my last deployment to Iraq and I have been shy about drifting the rear sight but thanks to your great video it doesn't look to bad. I am happy to subscribed great info.
Astounding video Mike. As always I learned. I am trying to sight in a 22 pellet rifle now. Using a much better scope than came with it. It is still a challenge. Iron sights seem easier for me. You make it look easy.
That .395 diameter ball is used by some ppl in .36 caliber percussion revolvers but usually with a 20 grain load of 3f and from a 7 inch barrel. That ball from the pistol is putting out about 120 foot pounds of energy. From that long rifle with 40 grains of 3f you’re probably getting over 200 foot pounds of energy and you could probably hunt small deer and small boars with it
If the rifle is shooting high, what do you recommend? Do you have any method either to raise the front sight or lower the rear sight? If not, do you adjust for shooting high by lowering your aim point? Jim
Where did you find linen fabric thick enough for patch material? How does it compare to cotton pillow material? Does it stand up to heavy powder charges better than cotton? Thanks for all you do. John Davis jax fl
So Mike, I'm just curious why 3F instead of 2F? From the world of Cap and Ball Revolvers, it's 3F (or 2F which is acceptable in some circles for big bore), but I've noticed with the rifles, particularly Flintlocks, everyone seems to use 3F.
Steven S. with rifles 3Fg is generally used up to .50 caliber with 2Fg used for over .50, but lately there has been a drift to use 3Fg for all calibers. I'm on the fence about that and I've been testing, but don't have conclusive results yet.
Hay Mike I was wondering if you might be able to a video on cleaning and maintain the care of the gun an any repairs that you think we might be able to do on our own .
I was looking for basic info on sighting in a flintlock. Like..... If its shooting to the right which way do you move the rear sight. So it looks like you chase the bullet with the rear sight.
Move the front sight in the opposite direction to where you want the bullet to go, and you move the rear sight in the same direction you want to move the bullet. So, to lower your point of impact, lower the rear sight. To raise your point of impact, file the front sight lower. To move POI to the left, either drift the front sight to the right, or drift the rear sight to the left.
I know my both my .45 Lehigh Valley rifle likes different combinations of patch thickness and ball diameter. My .45 likes .445 balls and a .015 patch rather than a .440 call and a .018 patch. And I generally use 35gr of powder from 0-50 yards and 70gr for 100 yards for paper and novelty shooting
Have you ever had to file your real sight and open it up to be able to see your front sight ? My Southern Mountain rifle has such a little spot on the real sight its hard to see the front sight .
I find that 4 Fg priming powder is slightly faster, and I use it for target shooting. But for hunting, I usually prime out of my main horn...3Fg or 2Fg, depending on the gun I'm using.,
In short, the charge that is most accurate in your gun is the best 25 to 30 yard charge. Personally, I like to find the weapons sweet spot before sighting it in. Obviously you need to be on paper, but beyond that, work with your gun at close range, 25 yards, changing the powder load, patch thickness, lube, (if you sue it) etc until you have a -5 shot group that is as close to one ragged hole as you can shoot. Bench resting is best for this. Once you have that, move out to 50 yards and see what it does. In all likelihood it will still group best so remember that charge, but play around again till you are sure. Once your 50 yard is good, move it out to your max comfortable range, or 100 yards whichever is closest and repeat the process. When all is said and done you will know the perfect load for that gun. Then sight it in for the range you are most wanting to use it at and enjoy!
"One size fits all" usually means it fits nobody RIGHT. Your eyes are different from everyone else's, so someone else trying to sight in a rifle FOR you won't work
To remove the front sight. Do you go left to right or right to left. Or it doesn't matter? If your shoots are hitting low. Can you just increase the power to get the shoot high?
MrAwesome glock Either side. I cut the dovetails myself and they are parallel sided. Theoretically I could increase the powder charge, but I'd probably open the groups up. I can tell by the way the rifle cracks that it is a good load as is.
Thanks for the info . Some people have told me that using the same grain amount of FFF powder is more powerful then the same grain amount of FF powder. Is this true? and if it is true . Is it safe or should I decrease the powder?
+MrAwesome glock up to a point. Finer granulation a are faster burning in light to moderate loads. In big loads the tighter packing of fine-grained powder slows the propagation of the flame through the charge , so pressures go up faster than velocity
+MrAwesome glock Back in the 80s when I first started shooting BP I was actually told to only use Fg and FFg for main charge in rifles, Fg for large cal and FFg for 50cal and below. FFFg and FFFFg should only be used for priming charge in rifles, but mainly for pistols. Never encountered any problems at all following this advice, but it is a pain in the 'proverbial' when you are at the range and run out of FFg and still have FFFg left, lol. I used to fire 75cal Brown Bess (flint) (smooth), 58cal Musket (cap) (rifled) and 45cal Kentucky (flint) (rifled). Used Fg in the Brown Bess, either Fg or FFg in the Musket and FFg in the Kentucky. Stone the bloody crows, wasn't the Kentucky accurate! I also used Fg in my 45-120 Sharps (C. Sharp Arms), but been informed that it will accept FFg no problems, but haven't tried it yet as with smokeless loads, still exclusively BP. Mike is a person with far more experience and I take his word as gospel. Thanks for posting Mike!! Cheers from Downunder :)
My Lyman Great Plains .50 needed some sighting in with some filing on the front sight. It was hitting low and I had the rear adjustable sight up almost all the way to sight it in 2" high at 50 yards. This bothers me so I filed on the front sight until I had it hitting where I wanted it to with the rear adjustable sight centered. This way there is much more room to adjust for elevation. It's easy, just go slow. You can alway take off more but it's pretty tough adding metal lol.
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Good information for new shooters of Flintlock locks
Excellent video, Mike! Thoroughly enjoyable and educational!
Only adjust sights after load has been developed. Different loads and projectiles will change point of impact.
Yes Yes Yes. I was surprised that duelist did not discuss that.
well done as usual. I have learned much from your videos.
Great video to help me as I begin my muzzleloading adventure.
Do you get a significant shift in point of impact when shooting from an bench vs shooting offhand? I hear longrifles are sensitive to how they're held.
This is like a gold nugget, I have TVM early Lancaster that Matt built for me after my last deployment to Iraq and I have been shy about drifting the rear sight but thanks to your great video it doesn't look to bad. I am happy to subscribed great info.
Astounding video Mike. As always I learned. I am trying to sight in a 22 pellet rifle now. Using a much better scope than came with it. It is still a challenge. Iron sights seem easier for me. You make it look easy.
That .395 diameter ball is used by some ppl in .36 caliber percussion revolvers but usually with a 20 grain load of 3f and from a 7 inch barrel. That ball from the pistol is putting out about 120 foot pounds of energy. From that long rifle with 40 grains of 3f you’re probably getting over 200 foot pounds of energy and you could probably hunt small deer and small boars with it
Love those flintlocks!
If the rifle is shooting high, what do you recommend? Do you have any method either to raise the front sight or lower the rear sight? If not, do you adjust for shooting high by lowering your aim point? Jim
Instead of tapping is there a tool that can be used to slowly push the rear sight. It seems that incremental adjustments that way might be easier
That was a lot of work but it looks like you had fun doing it. Thanks for sharing.
I like the rapid fire shooting.
That is when the fire selector is on full auto.
Where did you find linen fabric thick enough for patch material?
How does it compare to cotton pillow material? Does it stand up to heavy powder charges better than cotton?
Thanks for all you do.
John Davis jax fl
Fabric.com. Get heavy linen, it is about 0.018" thick. Performs the same as cotton.
very nice Mike, thank you, very helpful.
So Mike, I'm just curious why 3F instead of 2F? From the world of Cap and Ball Revolvers, it's 3F (or 2F which is acceptable in some circles for big bore), but I've noticed with the rifles, particularly Flintlocks, everyone seems to use 3F.
Steven S. with rifles 3Fg is generally used up to .50 caliber with 2Fg used for over .50, but lately there has been a drift to use 3Fg for all calibers. I'm on the fence about that and I've been testing, but don't have conclusive results yet.
Hay Mike I was wondering if you might be able to a video on cleaning and maintain the care of the gun an any repairs that you think we might be able to do on our own .
I was looking for basic info on sighting in a flintlock. Like..... If its shooting to the right which way do you move the rear sight. So it looks like you chase the bullet with the rear sight.
Move the front sight in the opposite direction to where you want the bullet to go, and you move the rear sight in the same direction you want to move the bullet. So, to lower your point of impact, lower the rear sight. To raise your point of impact, file the front sight lower. To move POI to the left, either drift the front sight to the right, or drift the rear sight to the left.
Thank you.....
Nice video Mike, what sight picture are you using, 6 o'clock or right on the bull (orange dot)
I know my both my .45 Lehigh Valley rifle likes different combinations of patch thickness and ball diameter. My .45 likes .445 balls and a .015 patch rather than a .440 call and a .018 patch. And I generally use 35gr of powder from 0-50 yards and 70gr for 100 yards for paper and novelty shooting
Does getting off the bench and shooting from the standing position change your point of impact?
Why not use Dykem bluing and softly scribe the line? Why scratch your barrel?
Have you ever had to file your real sight and open it up to be able to see your front sight ? My Southern Mountain rifle has such a little spot on the real sight its hard to see the front sight .
Mike if you use Shenandoah Valley Lube or LeHigh Valley Lube you don't have to wipe between shots.
I know I’m little late but does anyone know what song that Mike plays in the beginning, I’m assuming it’s a fiddle.
Thanks I can start on my TVM now
Will it still accurately hit at 50 yards and a 100 yards if sighted in it at 25 yards?
no. Sight it in for the distance you will usually be shooting at, and learn your hold-over/hold-under for other distances.
Mike I have one question can I use the same powder in the barrel as the pan on a Flintlock and what kind do you prefer please and thank you
I find that 4 Fg priming powder is slightly faster, and I use it for target shooting. But for hunting, I usually prime out of my main horn...3Fg or 2Fg, depending on the gun I'm using.,
Okay thanks for the information Mike appreciate that and good luck hunting stay safe out there
Clearly there is no adjusting for various loads. Now I understand why guys pick one and go with it for any kind of shooting they do with that gun.
I realize all rifles like diffrent charges but do you have a suggestion for a 25 to 30 yard charge ?
In short, the charge that is most accurate in your gun is the best 25 to 30 yard charge. Personally, I like to find the weapons sweet spot before sighting it in. Obviously you need to be on paper, but beyond that, work with your gun at close range, 25 yards, changing the powder load, patch thickness, lube, (if you sue it) etc until you have a -5 shot group that is as close to one ragged hole as you can shoot. Bench resting is best for this. Once you have that, move out to 50 yards and see what it does. In all likelihood it will still group best so remember that charge, but play around again till you are sure. Once your 50 yard is good, move it out to your max comfortable range, or 100 yards whichever is closest and repeat the process. When all is said and done you will know the perfect load for that gun. Then sight it in for the range you are most wanting to use it at and enjoy!
Please show how you made the pour spout for the powder can.
Very informative.
I thought that making sight adjustments were done only with the front sight. Am I incorrect?
they can be (as long as the front sight is dovetailed in). some people prefer to just center the rear sight and adjust the front.
are you worried about damaging the muscle crown using a patch knife like that?
No
Great Job.
Where can I buy a affordable flintlock muzzleloader that is already sighted in?
"One size fits all" usually means it fits nobody RIGHT. Your eyes are different from everyone else's, so someone else trying to sight in a rifle FOR you won't work
No tape around the front sight? You're braver than I.
Can you talk about the traditions Kentucky rifle?
To remove the front sight. Do you go left to right or right to left. Or it doesn't matter? If your shoots are hitting low. Can you just increase the power to get the shoot high?
MrAwesome glock Either side. I cut the dovetails myself and they are parallel sided. Theoretically I could increase the powder charge, but I'd probably open the groups up. I can tell by the way the rifle cracks that it is a good load as is.
Thanks for the info . Some people have told me that using the same grain amount of FFF powder is more powerful then the same grain amount of FF powder. Is this true? and if it is true . Is it safe or should I decrease the powder?
+MrAwesome glock up to a point. Finer granulation a are faster burning in light to moderate loads. In big loads the tighter packing of fine-grained powder slows the propagation of the flame through the charge , so pressures go up faster than velocity
+MrAwesome glock Back in the 80s when I first started shooting BP I was actually told to only use Fg and FFg for main charge in rifles, Fg for large cal and FFg for 50cal and below. FFFg and FFFFg should only be used for priming charge in rifles, but mainly for pistols. Never encountered any problems at all following this advice, but it is a pain in the 'proverbial' when you are at the range and run out of FFg and still have FFFg left, lol. I used to fire 75cal Brown Bess (flint) (smooth), 58cal Musket (cap) (rifled) and 45cal Kentucky (flint) (rifled). Used Fg in the Brown Bess, either Fg or FFg in the Musket and FFg in the Kentucky. Stone the bloody crows, wasn't the Kentucky accurate! I also used Fg in my 45-120 Sharps (C. Sharp Arms), but been informed that it will accept FFg no problems, but haven't tried it yet as with smokeless loads, still exclusively BP.
Mike is a person with far more experience and I take his word as gospel.
Thanks for posting Mike!!
Cheers from Downunder :)
how long did it take you to get your final grouping?
Ibpn two days...LOL I dicked around with windage forever.
duelist1954... wow
Ibpn Usually it goes faster than that
My Lyman Great Plains .50 needed some sighting in with some filing on the front sight. It was hitting low and I had the rear adjustable sight up almost all the way to sight it in 2" high at 50 yards. This bothers me so I filed on the front sight until I had it hitting where I wanted it to with the rear adjustable sight centered. This way there is much more room to adjust for elevation. It's easy, just go slow. You can alway take off more but it's pretty tough adding metal lol.
How did you cut the slot in the rear sight?
With a Swiss Needle file
Thanks. Do you have a preferred brand?
Grobbet
Thank you
Why not have speed loads made up makes it faster
I'm trying to do same site in, just ain't as good as you.
Someone disliked the video. I wonder if it is an antigunner or a board member from your previous shooting club...
+Anthony Browning Looks like someone couldn't keep their rifle for squirrels and such.
Probly some ijut tryin to be cute
Use a led sled, takes the human elements out of it.
like