Becoming a Better Bird / Wildlife Photographer with the Nikon Z8 & 180 600mm Lens

Join Ben as he takes on one of his biggest challenges yet. Getting better at bird/wildlife photogrpahy.
But what would happen if you paired this ameauter with some of the best equipment available today?
Well, you can find out in this video as Ben was sent out with the Nikon Z8 and Nikon NIKKOR Z 180-600mm f5.6-6.3 Lens over 3 days to see what he could do.
⬇️ Here is the gear we used to make this video: ⬇️
Nikon Z8 Mirrorless Camera Body:
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/niko...
Nikon NIKKOR Z 180-600mm f5.6-6.3 Lens:
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/niko...
Fujifilm X-H2S:
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/fuji...
Fujifilm XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR Lens:
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/Fuji...
DJI Mic 2 (2TX and 1RX and Case):
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/dji-...
SanDisk 64GB Extreme PRO 300MB/s UHS-II SDXC Card:
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/sand...
GoPro Hero 10 Black:
FOLLOW US
Instagram: / clifton_cameras
Twitter: / cliftoncameras
Facebook: / cliftoncameras
Website: www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/
#photography #fullframe #nikon #z8 #cliftoncameras #180-600mm #wildlifephotography #birdphotography

[@joeyret.617]

Hi there, I own the exact same kit and strongly suggest putting a wrist strap on that lens and holding it always by the lens foot as the weight of that lens will warp your Z8 or 180-600mm mounting flange or both and will get a loosie twist feel when handing in the long run. With BIF I always use the Focusing box "wide L". In my "I" button, I setup to quickly change the focusing box for different scenarios like if the bird is behind heavy bush, I can switch it to spot focus. I set up CAF and MF override so If I need to, I can fine tune with manual focusing with focus peaking turned on. The other thing I can suggest is set up a Shoot A and Shoot B with settings for auto ISO (Shoot A) and ISO you can control with exposure compensation to the right 1-2 stops (Shoot B) for birds in flight that are consistently coming from one direction or static birds. If that Kite would consistently fly into the wind, I would Shoot in B mode that way I have proper exposure on the kite and then you can bring back that sky in post. If the Kite would be erratic and flying in all directions then Auto ISO, Shoot A mode, get it Sharp and deal with exposure and shadows in post later. By the way I never waste memory space shooting in Jpeg and Raw because remember you only got on CF card slot in that Z8, and I'm always shooting in FX, High Burst 20fps. I like CF Type B cards of 512GB. Do your research and you can get excellent brands at an excellent price. My SD card slot on my Nikon Z8 is always empty. For wildlife photography you want speed of capture, so CF always. BTW I considered the Z9 because of it having 2 CF card slots, but the weight and size between both camera bodies was a big factor in my decision.
If I got a static bird, on approach I always try to move around considering its background and that all important Bokeh. Like you said, unfortunately having alota patience in order to get that killer shot is what is most important for this genre of photography. Other than that, that kit will definitely make your better at wildlife photography and like you say practice, practice. My 2cts and tips for anybody out there considering this excellent kit.

[@victorlim5077]

70 degree Fro? 😂 Great video. Some cracking photos of the Kite.

[@clifton-cameras]

He said flow the first time and then corrected himself to throw 😂
Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@RRRCCCDDD]

Great vid. Glad I found this

[@clifton-cameras]

Thanks a lot. Glad you enjoyed it

[@derricksalisbury7631]

Nice work Ben where is this please

[@clifton-cameras]

Thanks a lot Derrick.
The first section was filmed at Avalon marshes in Somerset. The 2nd at Slimbridge wetlands centre and the 3rd (Red Kite shots) up on Cleeve hill in the Cotswolds.

[@vzshadow1]

You needed a tad more shutter speed for those flying birds.

[@clifton-cameras]

Noted. Ben will definitely be paying more attention to this in the future.