I host a now-and-then friendly jam session in my home, and last time, the drummer shows up wearing one of your t-shirts. I ask him if he plays guitar, and he tells me he doesn't - he just really likes watching your videos. So do I!
For those who moan about other people spending $$.... I once spent $350 to get an Epiphone Les Paul that would have been worth $150 in mint condition into playable shape. It was my late brother's guitar. He left very little to my nephews when he passed. It was worth it to me to spend more than the guitar was worth to get it put back together.
My favorite guitar is an Epi LP100. It was my first guitar. I put new tuners, I replaced every plastic part with acrylic transparent parts (because I’m a 90’s kid), even the tulip tuning knobs, put EMGs, CTS pots, Switchcraft switch and jack, a gotoh bridge, stainless steel frets, white nácar inlays and a tusq nut. I have lost count of how much money I have spent on this guitar, and I don’t care. I enjoy working on it and no one has a guitar like mine. Leaving it to my kids when I die and will come back to pull their feet in their sleep every night if they sell it.
I just repaired an Epiphone A model mandolin for the same basic reason. Sadly his mom took it to someone else first and they did a horrible job. He works at my bank so I took the job. Make any money? Not really but I made a family a bit happier at the young man's life celebration. It's not always all about money. Sometimes you just have to do the right thing!
@@LosRockson I've got Epiphone LP-100 in my lap right now. I paid $100 for it off Craigslist a few years back and I'm never afraid to hand it to the children to let them play it. Those memories are priceless.
I like to go to Wristwatch Revival and watch him not lose little teeny screws that I would immediately drop onto the floor where they'd enter another dimension never to be found again. Here's his latest video - th-cam.com/video/ZHmRePXsI88/w-d-xo.html
I 'd like to say thanks Mr. Tedd. for repairing Japan made guitar. I always like to watch your video and I always respecting your skills and craftsmanship. have a lots of good days!! god bless you!!
Your definition of a loss is different than mine Ted. A loss is me standing in the back yard pissing on the smoldering ashes of a Japanese-made Epiphone.
And I love you. I had no idea about this till you set me on the internet trail (although I was vaguely aware there were 'corporate songs')! Presumably there are many real and equally crass 'hooray for our side' pep songs that predate the Simpsons. In the UK, it's more: 'We go in, we go out, get our wage is what it's all about'. Actually, I prefer that and feel better.
@@DynamicRockers Good suggestion. I've got a Walabot Stud Finder that connects to cellphone and provides a visual representation of what lies below the surface of a few types of materials. It requires a flat surface, but something like it might actually work.
I did a cheater "neck reset" on a beater guitar by clamping it on a stout plank, pulling the neck down where I thought it should be, blocking off most of the cavity with a towel and blowing in steam from a clothing steamer until it seemed really hot, and letting it sit for a week before unclamping. Two years later, still good.
Just a couple of tricks: 1. You can use small rare-earth magnets to locate steel rods and screws within the wood. 2. You can sometimes unscrew a bolt like the one under the acorn nut by using two thin nuts locked together. Thanks for sharing!
It seems impossible that he didn't solve that issue or that someone hasn't told him how those guitars were built. I thought about the 2 nut thing too. Why didn't he even consider it? I'm thinking he has enough on his plate as it is without stepping into a potentially liable situation. "Hey, I wrecked your guitar." I'm still curious about this. His explanation about how the companies treat the actual physicality of the guitar seems totally plausible. Wood comes in/ Guitars go out. Shame we left the question unanswered. Maybe it will surface again.
"some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you" that said, one thing i thought of is inspired by the first video i saw of a guy using the original stewmac soldering iron heat stick; he mounted the neck in the big padded clamp and did all the wiggling and pulling on the body itself. that provides a lot more leverage and would (i imagine) allow for pulling the body straight away from the neck with a lot more force compared to having it sitting loose on the bench
A couple years ago I had to do some work on an early 70's Morris 12 string. It needed a new top, so I wanted to remove the neck first. I was hoping there might be a dovetail neck joint, but found no indications on a dovetail. To get a look at how the neck was joined, to the body, I decided to take the fretboard off the neck. That ended up telling me that the only option to remove this neck would have been to saw the neck off, which I did not do. I did manage to put a new top on that guitar, but it was not an easy task. I did learn that removing the fretboard from an old Japanese made guitar is a good first step. You get to see what you are dealing with, then you can go from there.
ahhh, mr. sparkle!! My uncle has a similair guitar, though not the exact same model. It belonged to a close friend who died, and so it has incredibly high sentimental value, but much of the bracing has come loose and we've brought it to a couple luthiers who won't touch it.
I would certainly pay more for repairs than guitar worth in situations. I have two guitars in my collection that I will never replace. Those two have aged well over the years and developed awesome sound. I would always choose to fix them over replacing them.
My early 70's Ventura V6 is in that same category. I bought it for 125dollars in a "Head Shop" in Waterbury ct. I still have it. I did over 400 gigs , stage , r adio and lots of jam sessions. All the Martin guys kept watching me! Great to hear the comments from the community!🎶🎵🎶
I'm just a player but after binge watching your videos I have been able to do some minor work on my guitars... Always looking forward to your next video....keep up the great work!
Don here from Hamilton, NZ.,I love the information you always share on your videos, thanks for taking the time to share that, keep it up, very informative, thanks a lot
I wondered whether it would have been possible to drill into the heel to find the head of that screw and extract it. The extent of my knowledge on the subject, however, is pretty much what I've seen in your videos - so I figure there has to be a good reason why you didn't do that. Thank you for making these videos. I look forward to them every week.
I don't think that screw has a head. It's a stud with machine threads on one half of it and wood-screw threads on the other half. It's screwed into the heel and then bolted to the guitar body.
It' s an " It is what it is guitar" , it should be appreciated for How it sounds " as it is" and bearing the innate flaws, since it' s a cheap; anyway even that " barely better then it was" it' s a great result!👌🏼
I used to work in electronics manufacturing (retired now) and we had a few X-Ray machines to look closely at defects and do inspections on process. This issue made me wonder if you had availability to an X-Ray machine would it help you to determine what is going on in those areas. And.. to those that don't know and think that you do... You can fully adjust continuous XRAY for depth, density and have control on contrast. You can even magnify the area you want to observe and adjust the angle on the fly. This isn't the simple film xrays of the 50's.
That would be so awesome... Maybe somebody at the hospital in Hamilton could sneak something in after hours? Or maybe there's a radiology lab that would want to cooperate? I would love to see what Terry could do if the guesswork is removed...
Apparently this sort of thing is occasionally done for very high end violin repairs. I suppose it makes sense in that case as the value of the instruments they're working on starts at five figures and climbs fast.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 There is no danger of that. If it is a machine you are shielded by it and if its on a table then you just go behind the lead wall.
I JUST FIXED AN EPIPHONE GUITAR OF MY NEIGHBOURS. AFTER WATCHING YOUR CHANNEL I KNEW HOW TO FIX THE HIGH ACTION, UNLESS SHE WANTED TO USE IT FOR BOW HUNTING. I HAVE BEEN DOING MY OWN WORK FOR A COUPLWE YEARS NOW BUT I LIKE YOUR TECHNICS THE BEST THANKS FOR THE VIDS AND INFO
The first guitar repair I ever attempted was the 12 string version of this guitar that my dad had. It was the fender style bolt on variety you talked about, and the huge(!) neck block had separated from the body inside and split. Removed the top, made a new block out of maple and fudged it all back together. Aside from the messed up bindings, good as new! Never did replace the bindings, and dad played it til he passed 2 years ago.
I'm going through this exact thing with a 90s estaban guitar. I replaced the neck with a martin 23" scale and swapped the drilled bridge for a classical. Nothing like the labor of love.
Hello Ted. I've been watching your videos for years now and I have always found them very enlightening. Thank you for taking the time. I'm semi-retired and have been fixing guitars and tube guitar amps for a few years now. I have worked on the bolt on ones, but you just lit my OCD bulb lol. I have to know. I will pick one up and disassemble and get back to you.
Valiant effort sir! I have the same situation with a beautiful Japanese Sigma Martin. Needs a neck reset, has already had the bridge shaved by the previous owner. Also, the truss rod extends THRU the forward-most brace (the brace just behind the sound hole). I haven't found anyone yet who has had sucess resetting a Sigma neck. No sentimental value so it's a corner hugger.
I have an epiphone of the exact same vintage. 1972 FT570-BL made in japan.I've had a few problems I've had to fix over the years, but thankfully, I never had to remove the neck!
Seen the Japanese dry dock workers singing company song and exercising before starting work (71) surreal. Enjoyed your video allways learn something. 👍🥃Respect to you mate
To me, a particular instrument's value is what I believe it to be, for me, personally. I have several 'bargain' guitars, that I have worked on, and made to play and sound well above their price point. Those are the one's I play, and not my Gibsons or Fenders. I'm not sure why - maybe sentimental reasons? That Epiphone is a very nice looking guitar - too bad it was kind of obstinate in the repair department.
Indeed. I have a late 1970's Yamaha 12 string that is in beautiful condition, but it needs a neck reset, and no one will do it. What a pity that during the period they (the manufacturers) decided to do things to the neck joint (including using some type of epoxy), that just wasn't the norm....or even necessary.
@@realjumper Epoxy on any wooden instrument should only be used for filling a gap, and never for bonding two surfaces. Titebond Original responds very well to heat and moisture. There is even a company video showing how to unglue using heat and moisture. Hide and fish glue are also fairly easy to un-bond. But epoxy is virtually impossible to break loose.
@@perihelion7798 I think you misread what I wrote. The instrument needs a neck reset, but this is virtually impossible because the neck was secured with epoxy from the Yamaha factory in the 1970's
@@realjumper I did read it correctly. I used repairs as an example of not what to do, and that goes double for epoxy bonding during construction as well.
Ted, I found that sometimes taking the back off allows me to tip the neck and block to get a reset. I use a long clamping beam with shims against the bridge to hold my desired angle. Then re-install the back. The back will be a bit too long and the binding channels will have to be re-routed. Still a lot of work but, when it absolutely has to be fixed, it's a viable option! 😉🙃🤣
An online catalog of strange neck joint systems would be a fantastic resource. Also, by adding the guitar type to all your titles would stop those emails....maybe......probably not..... :)
I had the same thought. Double lag bolt in the heel (like a banjo neck). I wonder if neodymium magnets would be able to detect them through the heel? The nut will be under those triangular neckblock braces.
I have a 1970s Kiso Suzuki D35 clone guitar, and it's very strangely made but sounds reaaally good. Mine has the 60s gibson style metal saddle but doesn't have those crazy neck bolts. Maybe you could have used those stud wall finder/detector to check if there was another bolt above. Great video! Thanks
One possible fix: remove the frets and plane the fingerboard so it slopes downwards from the highest fret to the nut, then deepen the fret slots, refret, and hopefully the fingerboard is thick enough to pull this trick off. Once upon a time, CF Martin used this procedure on guitars that needed a very slight neck reset. If feasible, this would allow you to raise the bridge saddle and get back some volume and tone, while keeping the action playable.
I hope the postal service down here gets on the ball for you. I had a recent package go from philidelphia, to phoenix, then to virginia, before getting to me in tucson. All for the new higher shipping rates.
Another great insight into what comes into the shop. It's a good illustration about how the cost/benefit ratio comes into play. Based on your $1200 quote for the necessary fix, I did a quick search and found a good selection of Larrivee guitars well under that price.
I always enjoy your videos! Do you sometimes wish you could do a necropsy to figure out how the neck was set even if it's a one-way trip? And might the white cap on the heel be hiding something?
I think if I were to really try and fix that with a time / cost no object approach, I'd drill into the front of that heel block looking for the head of that screw or bolt that had the acorn nut fitted onto it inside the guitar. But yeah the outcome would still be uncertain... I know what you need in your arsenal next, Ted: an X-ray machine! This video was truly intriguing. Not least because I have loads of '70s Japanese acoustics! Three Arias, a Suzuki, a Yamaki, a Tokai and K. Yairi. That's clearly too many! None of them need a neck reset, but I put a bridge doctor in the Suzuki
I'd consider using a dremel extension hose - cut the threaded shaft then drill that out You'd most likely have to do the same after cutting through the inner block higher up too
@@no1beatsj Yeah that could work too or a hole saw from the inside, picking up on your idea of working from inside... In any event it would entail some terrifying, expensive, time consuming surgery. No wonder Ted backed off. He's a smart one!
@@Iazzaboyce Yeah like Ted said the idea was get the guitars made and shipped who cares how they are put together. Not are they built using time honoured methods of luthiery! So built in clamp buried in the heel join? Why not eh? Mine all seem to be built conventionally, thankfully although one or two of them look outlandish!
I had an 80's "Aria" as kid ad after a fall fro the bike due to a missed ice patch the guitar "developed" a very similar crack to the lower one showed here as well as a good amount of flaking between neck and body. Wish I still had it but it got stolen from my parents basement (and they didn't tell me so I could go looking in the local pawnshops etc)
Had similar dilemma with 1975 Takamine with epoxy set neck. No one wanted to work on it. Sometimes it’s time to just hang it on the wall and enjoy the memories.
Excellent effort 👌, bummer it was not a full win. I am curious what your 12th fret action would measure if fretted at the first fret since you don't appear to use that method
just spent £50 on a frequensator tailpiece because i thought it was a good idea.. it was really, as i look at it and love it in a new way. it’s good for soul i think. i get the same feeling knowing onions are in the house or toilet rolls 😀
Somebody asked me to take a look at a similar guitar with the neck bolt. there was no movement in it at all . On researching the guitar it was suggested that the neck bolt was used to hold the neck in place as they glued it in . A no go job !!!!
It would be interesting to get an industrial x-ray of that joint. I've got a late-70's or early-80's Korean import that I bought used in 1983. It has a 3-dowel mortise and tenon neck. I've seen photos of the same model with the neck off. Not impossible, but not worth it. I'm going to re refret it with a little bit taller wire and lower the saddle as much as can be done. It's not bad, and that should do the trick.
Wonderful done video As always. Old epiphone looked licked it was well cared for. With the small amount of adjust ment done no harm no fowel. Next 70s Japanese guitar might benifit from a trip to border security. Explane of some concerns you might have of shipping arrangements Maby get a free xray.
I'm in the middle of restoring my mothers Epi FT from that era. It's the guitar I started on. Thankfully the neck angle is still good but many braces have let go and I decided to pull the back off. The whole time im just thinking that I wouldn't bother if it was a customers...
I totally understand fixing stuff even tho it makes no financial sense. I love having things that I made memories with, that I have used for a long time, that have character from repairs, use and so on. That's worth it to me as it far surpasses the joy I get from having something new. Whilst it is exciting getting something new that feeling wears off really quickly, unlike the joy I get from things I that have history as this type of joy only grows with time.
Would it not be worth slipping the back to get a better neck angle. Tricky with the binding but doable I would have thought. Love your videos Ted. Thanks.
Another very interesting video! You have to wonder exactly what is going on with that heel, I suspect that there’s a dowel or another screw somewhere I don’t think that the manufacturers were looking to far into the future and the problems that would be encountered carrying out a neck reset when building these instruments . I’m a bit curious as to why the action is so high as everything looks ipretty good condition wise with no apparent evidence of top distortion or heel movement and the neck is straight. I suppose that one solution would be to fit a tapered fingerboard but that would cost many times the value of the guitar. I used to have one of the bolt on Japanese Epiphone flat tops and it was a really good sounding guitar with a very low action for an acoustic. I seem to remember seeing you work on repairing some body damage on one some time ago.
I wonder if you could somehow locknut the stud and then remove it. Even if you did remove it, there may be another hidden stud or dowel further up so you would still be stuffed. A valiant effort, it was worth a shot. Cheers from across the pond.
Not without a neck reset or some other repair first. The strings were already almost straight over the bridge. Take more off without a neck reset and the bridge may not be tall enough to even touch the strings anymore. You'd either want to reset the neck or make a taller bridge before you cut the saddle down.
I love Gibson's euphemism 'laminate' meaning plywood. Hofner archtops of the 50's and 60's that I've seen had spruce soundboards carved from solid like violins and were sadly underrated at the time.
This answers my questions about whether it would be worth it to try to fix the action on a mid-70's Suzuki dreadnought I've had for decades. At least it looks good hanging on the wall :(
We are having the same kind of week sir. Id do the 'lol" but we both know, it is not funny. carry on sir, thanks for your videos. very very helpful to my daily running shop in my store. respectfully, Vinny.
![[안방1열 풀캠4K] 베이비몬스터 'FOREVER' (BABYMONSTER FullCam)│@SBS Inkigayo 240707](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_2HL-ogzzBU/mqdefault.jpg)
I host a now-and-then friendly jam session in my home, and last time, the drummer shows up wearing one of your t-shirts. I ask him if he plays guitar, and he tells me he doesn't - he just really likes watching your videos. So do I!
As a fellow drummer, I approve this message.
As a non-fellow drummer but a semi-fellow guitar player but not fellow, I approve of this message.
There was that one video where he modified a kick drum for someone.
For those who moan about other people spending $$.... I once spent $350 to get an Epiphone Les Paul that would have been worth $150 in mint condition into playable shape. It was my late brother's guitar. He left very little to my nephews when he passed. It was worth it to me to spend more than the guitar was worth to get it put back together.
My favorite guitar is an Epi LP100. It was my first guitar. I put new tuners, I replaced every plastic part with acrylic transparent parts (because I’m a 90’s kid), even the tulip tuning knobs, put EMGs, CTS pots, Switchcraft switch and jack, a gotoh bridge, stainless steel frets, white nácar inlays and a tusq nut. I have lost count of how much money I have spent on this guitar, and I don’t care. I enjoy working on it and no one has a guitar like mine. Leaving it to my kids when I die and will come back to pull their feet in their sleep every night if they sell it.
I just repaired an Epiphone A model mandolin for the same basic reason. Sadly his mom took it to someone else first and they did a horrible job. He works at my bank so I took the job. Make any money? Not really but I made a family a bit happier at the young man's life celebration. It's not always all about money. Sometimes you just have to do the right thing!
Much respect to you, I would've definitely done the same thing, it's not about money it's about sentimental value
@@LosRockson I've got Epiphone LP-100 in my lap right now. I paid $100 for it off Craigslist a few years back and I'm never afraid to hand it to the children to let them play it. Those memories are priceless.
really doubt this was the case at all with this guitar lmao
Any time I feel my anxiety level creeping up, I come here and watch Ted fix a guitar.
Me too!
It's total therapy!
I like to go to Wristwatch Revival and watch him not lose little teeny screws that I would immediately drop onto the floor where they'd enter another dimension never to be found again. Here's his latest video - th-cam.com/video/ZHmRePXsI88/w-d-xo.html
I 'd like to say thanks Mr. Tedd. for repairing Japan made guitar.
I always like to watch your video and I always respecting your skills and craftsmanship. have a lots of good days!! god bless you!!
Your definition of a loss is different than mine Ted. A loss is me standing in the back yard pissing on the smoldering ashes of a Japanese-made Epiphone.
"Knife goes in, guts come out: that's what Osaka Seafood Concern is all about". I love you too, Ted.
Came here to say this!
And I love you. I had no idea about this till you set me on the internet trail (although I was vaguely aware there were 'corporate songs')! Presumably there are many real and equally crass 'hooray for our side' pep songs that predate the Simpsons. In the UK, it's more: 'We go in, we go out, get our wage is what it's all about'. Actually, I prefer that and feel better.
Dealing with a guitar that refuses to be repaired right now, so this is inspiring!
It's good to see I haven't been the only lutheir stymied by a 1970s Japanese guitar. Thank you for this video, you've made my day.
You need a home X-ray machine to fix a guitar like that.
Oh yeah, A wall stud finder could do the job I think.
Available from Stewmac…
@@DynamicRockers Good suggestion. I've got a Walabot Stud Finder that connects to cellphone and provides a visual representation of what lies below the surface of a few types of materials. It requires a flat surface, but something like it might actually work.
I was about to suggest this as well. Probably the better way to "examine" that area in this case before doing anything physical to it.
I did a cheater "neck reset" on a beater guitar by clamping it on a stout plank, pulling the neck down where I thought it should be, blocking off most of the cavity with a towel and blowing in steam from a clothing steamer until it seemed really hot, and letting it sit for a week before unclamping. Two years later, still good.
I agree, a heated reset of the neck makes the most sense in this case, but it can also sometimes introduce warping, even when clamped tight.
You just rolled the dice there bro and got really lucky..😁
Maybe it was lucky, but there wasn't much to loose on a guitar that was unplayable and not worth fixing properly.
Just a couple of tricks: 1. You can use small rare-earth magnets to locate steel rods and screws within the wood. 2. You can sometimes unscrew a bolt like the one under the acorn nut by using two thin nuts locked together. Thanks for sharing!
It seems impossible that he didn't solve that issue or that someone hasn't told him how those guitars were built. I thought about the 2 nut thing too. Why didn't he even consider it? I'm thinking he has enough on his plate as it is without stepping into a potentially liable situation. "Hey, I wrecked your guitar."
I'm still curious about this. His explanation about how the companies treat the actual physicality of the guitar seems totally plausible. Wood comes in/ Guitars go out.
Shame we left the question unanswered. Maybe it will surface again.
Just ran into this on an old Sigma today. Makes me feel better that I'm not alone. Really love all your work, Thanks!
Thanks for sharing one that didn't go as planned.
"some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you"
that said, one thing i thought of is inspired by the first video i saw of a guy using the original stewmac soldering iron heat stick; he mounted the neck in the big padded clamp and did all the wiggling and pulling on the body itself. that provides a lot more leverage and would (i imagine) allow for pulling the body straight away from the neck with a lot more force compared to having it sitting loose on the bench
Well, hey there gang! Good to see you!
I don’t know how you do it, but thank god great craftsmen such as yourself still exist.
A couple years ago I had to do some work on an early 70's Morris 12 string. It needed a new top, so I wanted to remove the neck first. I was hoping there might be a dovetail neck joint, but found no indications on a dovetail. To get a look at how the neck was joined, to the body, I decided to take the fretboard off the neck. That ended up telling me that the only option to remove this neck would have been to saw the neck off, which I did not do. I did manage to put a new top on that guitar, but it was not an easy task. I did learn that removing the fretboard from an old Japanese made guitar is a good first step. You get to see what you are dealing with, then you can go from there.
Thank you for these videos. Loving them…
ahhh, mr. sparkle!! My uncle has a similair guitar, though not the exact same model. It belonged to a close friend who died, and so it has incredibly high sentimental value, but much of the bracing has come loose and we've brought it to a couple luthiers who won't touch it.
Good efort! Thank you for trying and showing us also one of your defeats.
I would certainly pay more for repairs than guitar worth in situations. I have two guitars in my collection that I will never replace. Those two have aged well over the years and developed awesome sound. I would always choose to fix them over replacing them.
I truly appreciate your videos. Bought a hat and tshirt to help support your endeavors. Best of luck.
My early 70's Ventura V6 is in that same category. I bought it for 125dollars in a "Head Shop" in Waterbury ct. I still have it. I did over 400 gigs , stage , r adio and lots of jam sessions. All the Martin guys kept watching me! Great to hear the comments from the community!🎶🎵🎶
Ah yes, my weekly source of amazing craftsmanship and Simpsons deep cuts... Goes down smooth
Love your vids, keep it up. Very professional
You got to know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em. Good lesson.
I'm just a player but after binge watching your videos I have been able to do some minor work on my guitars... Always looking forward to your next video....keep up the great work!
Don here from Hamilton, NZ.,I love the information you always share on your videos, thanks for taking the time to share that, keep it up, very informative, thanks a lot
I wondered whether it would have been possible to drill into the heel to find the head of that screw and extract it. The extent of my knowledge on the subject, however, is pretty much what I've seen in your videos - so I figure there has to be a good reason why you didn't do that.
Thank you for making these videos. I look forward to them every week.
Great suggestion. Or then Could then drill the head and attach two nuts on the inside and screw it through the body
I don't think that screw has a head. It's a stud with machine threads on one half of it and wood-screw threads on the other half. It's screwed into the heel and then bolted to the guitar body.
It' s an " It is what it is guitar" , it should be appreciated for How it sounds " as it is" and bearing the innate flaws, since it' s a cheap; anyway even that " barely better then it was" it' s a great result!👌🏼
Cheap isn't cheap if the price is right. Buy what you like! I have a free guitar!
Hard to appreciate something for how it sounds if it's unplayable
Good attempt that neck was never going to come off,Cheers,love your work and channel!
I used to work in electronics manufacturing (retired now) and we had a few X-Ray machines to look closely at defects and do inspections on process. This issue made me wonder if you had availability to an X-Ray machine would it help you to determine what is going on in those areas.
And.. to those that don't know and think that you do... You can fully adjust continuous XRAY for depth, density and have control on contrast. You can even magnify the area you want to observe and adjust the angle on the fly. This isn't the simple film xrays of the 50's.
i expect with a guitar and most other inanimate objects, you don't need to worry so much about radiation dosage either.
That would be so awesome... Maybe somebody at the hospital in Hamilton could sneak something in after hours? Or maybe there's a radiology lab that would want to cooperate? I would love to see what Terry could do if the guesswork is removed...
Apparently this sort of thing is occasionally done for very high end violin repairs. I suppose it makes sense in that case as the value of the instruments they're working on starts at five figures and climbs fast.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 There is no danger of that. If it is a machine you are shielded by it and if its on a table then you just go behind the lead wall.
I JUST FIXED AN EPIPHONE GUITAR OF MY NEIGHBOURS. AFTER WATCHING YOUR CHANNEL I KNEW HOW TO FIX THE HIGH ACTION, UNLESS SHE WANTED TO USE IT FOR BOW HUNTING. I HAVE BEEN DOING MY OWN WORK FOR A COUPLWE YEARS NOW BUT I LIKE YOUR TECHNICS THE BEST THANKS FOR THE VIDS AND INFO
OK...sometimes I click on your site just to listen to that neat guitar info. Really! 😁
Amazing repair
Great video! Very interesting and informative.
Sounds great.
You're a good man, Ted! 🙏👍
The morning calisthenics mantra gave me fond nostalgia for the movie and tv series Gung Ho. Thanks for that!
It is what it is. Thanks for sharing.
The first guitar repair I ever attempted was the 12 string version of this guitar that my dad had. It was the fender style bolt on variety you talked about, and the huge(!) neck block had separated from the body inside and split. Removed the top, made a new block out of maple and fudged it all back together. Aside from the messed up bindings, good as new! Never did replace the bindings, and dad played it til he passed 2 years ago.
I'm going through this exact thing with a 90s estaban guitar. I replaced the neck with a martin 23" scale and swapped the drilled bridge for a classical. Nothing like the labor of love.
I’ve owned two instruments made in the Matsumoku factory and they’re both quite good.
Hello Ted. I've been watching your videos for years now and I have always found them very enlightening. Thank you for taking the time. I'm semi-retired and have been fixing guitars and tube guitar amps for a few years now. I have worked on the bolt on ones, but you just lit my OCD bulb lol. I have to know. I will pick one up and disassemble and get back to you.
@Bert, did you get to do this yet?
A lot of us got some good information, out of this, with some valuable wisdom, so many thanks for that.
Thanks for posting this. If I ever run into a joint like that will pull the frets and fix the action with a hand plane on the fretboard.
Excellent video, fishbulb!
Thank you for posting. I would have run into this situation blind.
Valiant effort sir!
I have the same situation with a beautiful Japanese Sigma Martin. Needs a neck reset, has already had the bridge shaved by the previous owner. Also, the truss rod extends THRU the forward-most brace (the brace just behind the sound hole). I haven't found anyone yet who has had sucess resetting a Sigma neck. No sentimental value so it's a corner hugger.
I have an early 70's Sigma DM-5. Can't imagine it's worth anything but it sure has provided lots of pleasure over the years.
Thank you sir
I had ine from 1973 and it was a sunburst. It souded great.
I have an epiphone of the exact same vintage. 1972 FT570-BL made in japan.I've had a few problems I've had to fix over the years, but thankfully, I never had to remove the neck!
I got the song and it had me in stitches. 👍🤣
Seen the Japanese dry dock workers singing company song and exercising before starting work (71) surreal. Enjoyed your video allways learn something. 👍🥃Respect to you mate
To me, a particular instrument's value is what I believe it to be, for me, personally. I have several 'bargain' guitars, that I have worked on, and made to play and sound well above their price point. Those are the one's I play, and not my Gibsons or Fenders. I'm not sure why - maybe sentimental reasons?
That Epiphone is a very nice looking guitar - too bad it was kind of obstinate in the repair department.
Indeed. I have a late 1970's Yamaha 12 string that is in beautiful condition, but it needs a neck reset, and no one will do it. What a pity that during the period they (the manufacturers) decided to do things to the neck joint (including using some type of epoxy), that just wasn't the norm....or even necessary.
@@realjumper Epoxy on any wooden instrument should only be used for filling a gap, and never for bonding two surfaces. Titebond Original responds very well to heat and moisture. There is even a company video showing how to unglue using heat and moisture.
Hide and fish glue are also fairly easy to un-bond. But epoxy is virtually impossible to break loose.
@@perihelion7798 I think you misread what I wrote. The instrument needs a neck reset, but this is virtually impossible because the neck was secured with epoxy from the Yamaha factory in the 1970's
@@realjumper I did read it correctly. I used repairs as an example of not what to do, and that goes double for epoxy bonding during construction as well.
@@perihelion7798 uh huh...ok then
0:37 That's not how I remembered it. Love you too!
Hokey Pokey loves U2, Brotha! Many thanks for the vidzzz!!
A wise old Tedian saying ......."Human life is exceptionally brief and there are other things to do"........ Words to live by my friend.
Ted, I found that sometimes taking the back off allows me to tip the neck and block to get a reset. I use a long clamping beam with shims against the bridge to hold my desired angle. Then re-install the back. The back will be a bit too long and the binding channels will have to be re-routed. Still a lot of work but, when it absolutely has to be fixed, it's a viable option! 😉🙃🤣
Thanks for the love.
An online catalog of strange neck joint systems would be a fantastic resource. Also, by adding the guitar type to all your titles would stop those emails....maybe......probably not..... :)
Awesome.
About 3/4 the way through, I'm guessing there's another screw under that triangular block
That's exactly what I was thinking, a big bolt underneath a glued block
I had the same thought. Double lag bolt in the heel (like a banjo neck). I wonder if neodymium magnets would be able to detect them through the heel? The nut will be under those triangular neckblock braces.
I have a 1970s Kiso Suzuki D35 clone guitar, and it's very strangely made but sounds reaaally good. Mine has the 60s gibson style metal saddle but doesn't have those crazy neck bolts. Maybe you could have used those stud wall finder/detector to check if there was another bolt above. Great video! Thanks
One possible fix: remove the frets and plane the fingerboard so it slopes downwards from the highest fret to the nut, then deepen the fret slots, refret, and hopefully the fingerboard is thick enough to pull this trick off. Once upon a time, CF Martin used this procedure on guitars that needed a very slight neck reset. If feasible, this would allow you to raise the bridge saddle and get back some volume and tone, while keeping the action playable.
Luv you too Ted.
I hope the postal service down here gets on the ball for you. I had a recent package go from philidelphia, to phoenix, then to virginia, before getting to me in tucson. All for the new higher shipping rates.
Nice one!
Sometimes,one has to learn to let things go.
Coolvids.
Another great insight into what comes into the shop. It's a good illustration about how the cost/benefit ratio comes into play.
Based on your $1200 quote for the necessary fix, I did a quick search and found a good selection of Larrivee guitars well under that price.
I always enjoy your videos! Do you sometimes wish you could do a necropsy to figure out how the neck was set even if it's a one-way trip? And might the white cap on the heel be hiding something?
I think if I were to really try and fix that with a time / cost no object approach, I'd drill into the front of that heel block looking for the head of that screw or bolt that had the acorn nut fitted onto it inside the guitar. But yeah the outcome would still be uncertain... I know what you need in your arsenal next, Ted: an X-ray machine! This video was truly intriguing. Not least because I have loads of '70s Japanese acoustics! Three Arias, a Suzuki, a Yamaki, a Tokai and K. Yairi. That's clearly too many! None of them need a neck reset, but I put a bridge doctor in the Suzuki
I'd consider using a dremel extension hose - cut the threaded shaft then drill that out
You'd most likely have to do the same after cutting through the inner block higher up too
My guess is that nut just acted as a clamp to hold the neck tight into the heel block mortice while the glue set.
@@Iazzaboyce Yeah - mine too
@@no1beatsj Yeah that could work too or a hole saw from the inside, picking up on your idea of working from inside... In any event it would entail some terrifying, expensive, time consuming surgery. No wonder Ted backed off. He's a smart one!
@@Iazzaboyce Yeah like Ted said the idea was get the guitars made and shipped who cares how they are put together. Not are they built using time honoured methods of luthiery! So built in clamp buried in the heel join? Why not eh? Mine all seem to be built conventionally, thankfully although one or two of them look outlandish!
I had an 80's "Aria" as kid ad after a fall fro the bike due to a missed ice patch the guitar "developed" a very similar crack to the lower one showed here as well as a good amount of flaking between neck and body. Wish I still had it but it got stolen from my parents basement (and they didn't tell me so I could go looking in the local pawnshops etc)
about 6 months ago I sold a 5102t matsumoku epiphone 70/71 precursor to the e250 no pitchfork on pickguard 2 staple pickups beautiful guitar
Had similar dilemma with 1975 Takamine with epoxy set neck. No one wanted to work on it. Sometimes it’s time to just hang it on the wall and enjoy the memories.
Excellent effort 👌, bummer it was not a full win. I am curious what your 12th fret action would measure if fretted at the first fret since you don't appear to use that method
just spent £50 on a frequensator tailpiece because i thought it was a good idea.. it was really, as i look at it and love it in a new way. it’s good for soul i think. i get the same feeling knowing onions are in the house or toilet rolls 😀
I am lucky enough to have access to an X ray machine and shooting a film of an unfamiliar neck joint has been very helpful.
Somebody asked me to take a look at a similar guitar with the neck bolt. there was no movement in it at all . On researching the guitar it was suggested that the neck bolt was used to hold the neck in place as they glued it in . A no go job !!!!
It would be interesting to get an industrial x-ray of that joint. I've got a late-70's or early-80's Korean import that I bought used in 1983. It has a 3-dowel mortise and tenon neck. I've seen photos of the same model with the neck off. Not impossible, but not worth it. I'm going to re refret it with a little bit taller wire and lower the saddle as much as can be done. It's not bad, and that should do the trick.
Wonderful done video As always. Old epiphone looked licked it was well cared for. With the small amount of adjust ment done no harm no fowel.
Next 70s Japanese guitar might benifit from a trip to border security.
Explane of some concerns you might have of shipping arrangements
Maby get a free xray.
Nice to be loved.
Knife goes in, guts come out
I'm in the middle of restoring my mothers Epi FT from that era. It's the guitar I started on. Thankfully the neck angle is still good but many braces have let go and I decided to pull the back off. The whole time im just thinking that I wouldn't bother if it was a customers...
I totally understand fixing stuff even tho it makes no financial sense. I love having things that I made memories with, that I have used for a long time, that have character from repairs, use and so on. That's worth it to me as it far surpasses the joy I get from having something new. Whilst it is exciting getting something new that feeling wears off really quickly, unlike the joy I get from things I that have history as this type of joy only grows with time.
Would it not be worth slipping the back to get a better neck angle. Tricky with the binding but doable I would have thought. Love your videos Ted. Thanks.
Another very interesting video! You have to wonder exactly what is going on with that heel, I suspect that there’s a dowel or another screw somewhere I don’t think that the manufacturers were looking to far into the future and the problems that would be encountered carrying out a neck reset when building these instruments . I’m a bit curious as to why the action is so high as everything looks ipretty good condition wise with no apparent evidence of top distortion or heel movement and the neck is straight. I suppose that one solution would be to fit a tapered fingerboard but that would cost many times the value of the guitar. I used to have one of the bolt on Japanese Epiphone flat tops and it was a really good sounding guitar with a very low action for an acoustic. I seem to remember seeing you work on repairing some body damage on one some time ago.
🎶Knife goes in, guts come out 🎶
🎶That's what Osaka Seafood Concern is all about🎶
I dunno how u havnt got like 10 million subscribers… sometimes the gang loses the battle but not the war. Hang in there gang
I wonder if you could somehow locknut the stud and then remove it. Even if you did remove it, there may be another hidden stud or dowel further up so you would still be stuffed. A valiant effort, it was worth a shot. Cheers from across the pond.
And some boots were made for walkin
Great video, Could this case be a candidate to sanding the bridge to lower the floating saddle?? cheers!
Not without a neck reset or some other repair first. The strings were already almost straight over the bridge. Take more off without a neck reset and the bridge may not be tall enough to even touch the strings anymore. You'd either want to reset the neck or make a taller bridge before you cut the saddle down.
Would have been interesting to get an XRAY image of that neck joint to see what that screw was all about.
They frown on it when I show up in the emergency room with my little wooden buddies.
@@twoodfrd Haha!! If I were running the emergency room, I would have prioritized you, bud. Love your videos!
Polishing, polishing, polishing. I said it for you.
I love Gibson's euphemism 'laminate' meaning plywood. Hofner archtops of the 50's and 60's that I've seen had spruce soundboards carved from solid like violins and were sadly underrated at the time.
As did many Harmony f-hole guitars. The neck were glunky, the tuners were poor, but the tops were solid spruce, albeit on the thick side.
This answers my questions about whether it would be worth it to try to fix the action on a mid-70's Suzuki dreadnought I've had for decades. At least it looks good hanging on the wall :(
It depends. They're not all like this!
u need an x ray, at least a wall stud finder. thanks for another great video! cheers!
Gung ho? I loved that movie as a kid. Also, I just lost a battle with my miter saw, so "can't win em all" resonates...
We are having the same kind of week sir. Id do the 'lol" but we both know, it is not funny. carry on sir, thanks for your videos. very very helpful to my daily running shop in my store. respectfully, Vinny.