Great video! I'm working on Denso 7SEU16C, which is a clutchless continuously variable compressor. The compressor shaft is spinning whenever the belt is turning (no clutch!), and a solenoid controls the swash plate angle. Because it doesn't have a clutch, you don't see the compressor engage as you can with the clutch versions, so sometimes the clutchless compressors get replaced because people think the compressor is toast (because they can't get the clutch to engage...but there is no clutch!). These clutchless variables also get overcharged because the gauge display doesn't have the "kick on, kick off" on the low side that you see with regular clutch compressors. So there are a little different. They are found on vehicles that have high-end climate control systems which don't require the driver to constantly change the climate controls (ie, you can set a temperature). The ECU can use engine rpm and all kinds of other info to vary the voltage to the compressor control valve (solenoid) to adjust the swash plate. So with these clutchless variables, you don't even see the engine rpm change when you turn the AC on. I'm replacing the control valve/solenoid on an old (2003) Denso clutchless variable because the solenoids get intermittent failures as they get older. Great video, and perhaps you can open up a Denso clutchless sometime! The one I'm working on is from an '03 Mercedes ML350, and they were put on a lot of MB's, Lexus, and of course Toyotas.
I know instances where such a compressor has been used with manual climate controls (rotate the heater knob until you feel comfortable type of control) too.
@@RamSharma-90_64 Yes -- I have seen it on 2003 and newer Mercedes Benz's that have the M113 or M112 engine (ML350, ML500, etc), and also BMW's but also some Toyotas. I think they are becoming more popular so we will see them more often.
Good explanation....I am having an issue with 2012 kia optima...low side pressure is high and cabin air is warm....when I rev engine up to 2500 rpms the low pressure drops and air gets cold...I think this is a clutchless compressor and my thinking is the angle plate is not changing because of a faulty solenoid valve....when I rev it up even though the displacement stays the same (barely open small displacement) I at least get some compression/suction because of the speed of the compressor....
Brother, it's a goddamn shame your videos don't get more views. Everyone I've shown them to is amazed how easy it is to grasp a concept once its broken down, and you do a great job explaining stuff along with videos. Thanks for helping all of us learn!
Stumbled into this and had to watch. Brought back memories. Couple things: 1) this is not a variable swashplate, it's a wobble plate. Old GM V5 might have been one of the early variables to have this, but had a tendency to throw itself to full stroke at high rpm because of kinematic imbalance so it would have to declutch. Swashplate variables are much more controlled because they are kinematically balanced (high rpm they want to destroke). 2) control valve controls the stroke by changing crank pressure, not cylinder pressures. Low suction will cause valve open throwing discharge gases into crank and destroking. High suction will cause valve to close opening the crank to suction. There are some other control holes to ensure oil circulates. Non electric valves used a bellows or a diaphragm to sense suction pressure.
Love your videos, you are very knowledgeable and you explain relatively complex things very well, with a bit of humor thrown in. Watched this one in particular because the ac compressor in my son's car has never worked, had it checked and is receiving power, the guy at the shop said it would require a new compressor. It's a 2003 Honda Accord. Was looking at taking it in repair but now I'll buy the part on Amazon and do it myself, I feel confident in doing this now because your video has 'de-mystified' the compressor, it is nothing more than a pump and really relatively simple one (nevertheless a very clever design). Keep up the good work.
Thanks. I've experiemented with paper explaination in the past but I feel there's just something about physically taking it apart making it easier to understand
Excellent work here. This is basically an early Calsonic's take at the Harrison V5 comp. They later switched to an even simpler design that yields a smaller and even more efficient compressor, by removing the front nutating plate (actually called a wobble plate) and attaching pistons to the rear plate (the swashplate) by means of hemispherical shoes rather than rods, and that is the CVC (Compact Variable Compressor) compressor equipped on my car (even though mine has a mechanical control valve that doesn't act upon any external input, it just senses both the suction pressure and the discharge pressure and tries to regulate them to optimal values). The dye is not necessarily a sign of diagnosis having been taken on the vehicle's AC; it's usually fitted every time a service is done to better diagnose a leak in case one springs soon after the service. Some OEMs even include it in the factory. Personally, i see enough oil inside to think that the compressor has been ran with a good refrigerant charge most of its life. There's some rust, maybe owner didn't care about replacing the dryer/a DIY kit has been used to "top up" the AC and/or the system has been kept open for some time in its life. 2:55 That's an HPRV valve that pops open whenever discharge pressure becomes too high for some reason. Oil drain bolt is located forwards, towards the front (hex nut at 1:36), in order to aid oil removal. 3:31 Not only the pistons are moving up and down; at that time, they're doing so in the lowest displacement the compressor can attain (as you can better understand at 5:28). Interesting behaviour (and design) because the Harrison V5's mechanism will be doing the exact opposite, i.e. it will be driving the pistons at their maximum displacement in the same condition. That means that the Calsonic compressor has a "softer" start (the control valve, however, soon restores maximum displacement by bleeding the crankcase pressure to the suction side, if required). The CVC compressor in my car has the same perk. Rotate the clutch hub by hand in a summer day and it will get increasingly stiffer to turn as you keep turning it. That's because the plate's angle relative to the shaft is decreasing and the pistons are trying to compress more refrigerant.
Very cool speedkar! Thank you, always watch your videos but particularly this one since I just had my AC serviced as it was leaking at the service ports but they drain the oil and vacuumed it down for the correct charge and I'm guessing they wanted to make sure that there was no moisture in the system. Watching a video like this makes me think of all them parts and how everything comes together to keep my ass cool in the summer!
This is what we call a wobble plate compressor, a swash plate compressor is a little bit different.The ECV regulates the angle of the wobble plate or the swash plate through electromagentic pulms, the bigger the angle the bigger the efficiency of the compressor. This was not a drain screw but it was the overpressure relief valve which usually opens above 30 bar..it helpus understand wether there was an overpressure in the system and protects the a/c compressor at the same time, on the pistons there is a light layer of teflon for friction reduction, good video - now your stuff!
Great job on showing the variable compressor internals. Using existing pressures and PCM controlled positioning, is important for DIY’s to know why low pressure switches stop compressor operation completely, protecting the compressor from failure due to loss of oil that ONLY flow with refrigerant. This is done to reduce engine load, increasing fuel economy, like alternator control, power steering 10% on the highway but 90% at slow speed for turning the steering wheel. Pressure switches are more important than ever, as we migrate from R12, R134 now R1234Y or what ever they call it this week. Please note the clutch coil when de-energized as mutual induction can produce 180 volts requiring a forward biased diode of 1/4 watt facing the positive wire. It can be located at the compressor, 10” up the harness or in a fuse box. Just food for future video if you have access to a labscope set to trigger at any signal above 90 volts. The same design is used to create hydraulic motors for hydrostatic drive systems but with some manual control of the rotary squash plate to control speed or even reverse. Thanks! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Besides all the really cool tech infor (I plan to get certified from these videos) but a chance to see the family laundry aired.... Thanks for the humor and entertainment while learning about these complicated subjects.
Excellent breakdown and video.... Much appreciated👍 The a.c. compressor is basically a mini engine which is why it's best start it BELOW 2000rpm (idle preferred)
You'll find a lot of compressors which have a fixed displacement switch their clutch on and off continously on the highway to keep the evaporator from freezing up. No matter what rpm the engine is at. Yet they, and their clutches, last for decades if properly maintained. Auto compressors are designed for that. It's larger AC compressors such as bus ones that should never cycle.
Ah, so that's why at idle the A.C. is not as cool as when I'm cruising along. It operates on the engine Rpm's. Great video. I'm a new subscriber, great channel.
@@speedkar99 thanks. I really like my Elantra. 2018. 2.0 with a manual transmission. I change the synth oil every 4k-4500. The AC is nice once you step on the gas! And the AC makes shifting a little less smooth because it's a pull on the motor.
@@teravolt6113 ok. Thanks. It's just not as cold when at idle but as quiet as this engine is and I get over 40mpgs. ...it is not powerful so maybe that could have something to do with it. The car has been very good reliability wise however maybe I'll just have the dealer give it a quick look just in case.
@@speedkar99 not so much because of the rpms on the highway, but more the condensor air flow is high so discharge pressures decline. Condensor effectiveness sets discharge pressure (assuming the correct refrigerant charge). So idle pressures go up, TXV closes to try to keep evap pressures low at low refrigerant flows. Compressor or computer will see the suction pressure increase and increase the stroke on the variable compressor.
I am always amazed how every system in a modern car is very complex than the engine itself. I used to think that understanding the ICE engine workings plus the transmission will make me a car guru. Now I am a disilusioned guy.
Yeah he's making too much out of this. It's a basic 6 cylinder compressor with a wobble crankshaft. It's nice to show how one works. I rebuild my first one of these in 1979..
thanks for this excelent vid , bro.!! I got one of those variable ac and my issue is it constantly turn off and on , i would say every 40 seconds or so , what could be the problem ?
I'm replacing the idle bearing the next weekend or so, in addition I'm replacing the low side suction line. Would I benefit taking apart the AC compressor to clean it up and refill it with PAG 46 afterword's? Do you need any other seals? I bought an o-ring kit for the hoses, has about 16 o-rings.
This is really neat: a sort of continuously variable hydraulic transmission. I wonder if this same swash plate system has been used in other settings (in addition to helicopters). Also: did I miss something? How does the solenoid valve continuously vary the link between the input and output ports? I thought solenoids were usually all on or all off only.
The swash plate system is used in many hydraulic pumps especially in heavy duty industrial applications. A solenoid can be pulse width modulated by the computer therefore making it variable.
That must be like being stuck in 2nd gear on your Yaris! I can feel the slight power loss on my V6 cars sometimes. Some hybrid cars have electric compressors. Also think of your home A/C....its powered by electricity too!
The one in my Prius is electric. It runs off the hybrid battery, but like all energy, the power has to come from somewhere. It will still draw tons of power to do its job, also, the Prius compressor/motor assembly is nearly $1000 alone. It runs off of an inverter and the speed is varied like that..... The newest Prius also uses it as a heat pump so it can be full electric.
I HAVE 2016 Silverado and my question is how to by pass my solenoid valve ,like the older compressor style? I DONT WANT VARIABLE PRESSURES, ANY WAY TO ELIMINATE THE VALVE?
Is there anyway to know if you have a fixed o variable compressor by just looking at it? Maybe a sticker or a particural note to look for? Btw: love your videos, keep it up please
why sometimes ac blows hot when car isn't moving it always happens with this type of ac compressor, after changing the electric valve it start back blowing cold but not for long
help me growling Sound from AC compressor during idling with AC off , after switching ON AC no sound at all cooling is good but as I switch off AC or cabin reaches desired temperature sound again starts, is this bcoz of low compressor oil ?? (when refrigerant flows compressor has enough oil to lubricate and when AC off compressor doesn't have oil for lubrication as refrigerant flow stops(my theory)).. hyundai elite i20 uses VDC any one help...pl
I’m looking at wiring a 12V compressor in parallel with a compressor of this style. Would that control valve be closed when the compressor is off? I ask as I am wondering if I need a check valve to prevent this moving backflow while the other compressor starts. I also ask because finding this type of universal hvac check valve has been a chore, everything’s just hydraulic npt.
Excellent job profesor ! Even though I don't know your name, I think that you are a great teacher and a funny guy as well while making jokes with your brother' underpants! You are a bit faster while explainind Would you mind slowing down please Anyway I have learned a lot from you! Thank you!
Awesome video man! Compressors look quite sturdy, what causes them to seize? I did a mistake by adding refrigerant to the system but I'm sure I did a mistake (the pressure reading of the freon can that I bought must've been wrong) and after driving for a day a weird friction sound appeared then the serpentine belt snapped.
Not enough oil returning to the compressor while it's running is what kills them. Running the AC with not enough refrigerant is what causes the reduced oil circulation rate (refrigerant tends to stop inside the evaporator where it's thickest and the refrigerant carries less oil around as the mass flow rate decreases and the evaporator superheat increases) and the higher than normal evaporator superheat can also overheat the compressor degrading whatever oil is left inside. Insufficient lubrication means friction and too much friction eventually ends into something welding to something else or wearing to the point that it falls out of place.
I thought the variable type didn't have a clutch and the shaft is always spinning with the pulley and therefore the workload is controlled with the valve. This compressor seems to have both.
There are cars with both designs. Most manufacturers have added a clutch system with a variable compressor so that if the compressor seizes and fails, it won’t affect the serpentine belt and other accessories.
so what is the difference between normal AC compressor? Does magnet clutch on/off self regulates refrigerant pressure? If RPMs are too much - clutch off, if RPM too low - clutch on. I don't see the point except more complex AC compressor and parts which can break.
Clutching on and off is somewhat inefficient, because the pressure is fixed. That would be like flooring your car's gas pedal and then letting off all the way to maintain speed, without variability in between.
@@speedkar99 Thank you for your reply. I just took a look into a different video about vtec AC compressor, the sole purpose of this variable AC compressor was to get rid of magnetic clutch. but it also didnt work, they kept it. Also, my accord's ac compressor, like your in your video, has magnetic clutch and vtec.
Clutch saves your compressor if for some reason you have to drive the car with an empty AC system. It also allows better engine power management with small engines. The Toyota iQ's compressor has both variable displacement and a clutch for this reason.
I would think that when the control valve closes, reducing flow, you would want a shorter stroke on your pistons, but it seemed like you were saying the opposite.
I have a question. In cars with variable displacement compressors, it is supposed that the compressor is operating as long as the car motor is rotating. So, what does exactly pressing the AC switch button do in this case?
@@alaaomraneg Pressing the AC button (or engaging the defroster) energizes the solenoid in the control valve so that flow changes within the compressor housing and refrigerant begins being drawn away from the crankcase, increasing displacement. The increasing displacement causes a discharge or suction side check valve to open within the compressor housing, and refrigerant actually starts circulating within the AC loop. Turning the AC or defroster off causes the solenoid within the control valve to de-energize, routing refrigerant to the crankcase and increasing its pressure. The aforementioned check valve shuts off as soon as the displacement decreases enough, and refrigerant stops circulating inside the AC loop. The compressor basically gets "short-circuited" and any refrigerant circulation now takes place only within the compressor housing. However, even if the AC and defroster are kept off the climate control unit periodically energizes the control valve in order to circulate some refrigerant and lubricant through the system and to the compressor for a short while, keeping it cool. Displacement never gets 0 since recovering the correct swashplate angle is impossible when the swashplate is 90° relative to the compressor shaft. Hence the check valve.
Typically the seals are what go bad, if not the clutch. It really has to be done right and pressure tested to make sure it'll last. I would rather toss a used compressor in than rebuild it.
Not worth your time and money. By the time you have all the needed tools you've already spent the money needed for a good quality reman comp, that is if you've managed to successfully reassembly your old compressor. I'd say clutches, externally mounted control valves and o-rings are the most a wise DIYer or shop should deal with. Leave anything else to rebuilders if you don't wanna risk losing money, time and your sanity...
if its the pressure that controls the angle of the pistons. what creates that pressure in the first place?, the solenoid only controls the amount of pressure coming in or going out, it doesn't create any pressure by itself, much explanation is needed.
The movement of the pistons create pressure. The ECU controls how much of that pressure is bypassed to the back side of the piston (and therefore adjusts the swash plate angle). It's a closed loop control system
@@speedkar99 so the pistons themselves create enough pressure to work against it and also output the work needed for air conditioning?, sounds too good to be true fro me, how does the law of thermodynamics play in this??.
@@roosterred7924 The engine is what's nutating (through another rotating plate) the plate that is driving the pistons forwards and backwards and giving the needed work for air conditioning to happen. The pressure gradient between the cylinders and the crankcase, which is what the control valve is able to act upon, is what makes the plate tilt in one direction or the other. There will always be a pressure gradient while the compressor is driven as long as the plates never achieve 90° relative to the compressor shaft. There's no magic involved here.
I have a Toyota vitz with a variable compressor that works great but a lot of owners have the issue of the compressor failing. Could you make a video explaining why it fails?
If it's the Denso 5SE09 clutchless comp it's likely the refrigerant charge getting too low for proper compressor lubrication when the engine is revved up, or defective control valves that prevent the compressor from turning on
If your AC breaks because of a leak and you don't plan on fixing it, disconnect the power to it because the clutch will engage in the heat/defrost mode. The compressor can freeze up with no fluid in it.
Most likely rust kept the clutch plate spinning with the worn out clutch bearing all the time then the latter eventually froze up . If you still have your compressor, open it up to check. I bet the internal is still intact.
Sorry, overlooked you said "Disconnected the power and no more problems" Then a 92 Taurus' a/c system is quite primitive in a sense; it lacks a low pressure switch apparently!
@speedkar99 This compressor is the setup ive been searching for for my model engine conversion.... What vehicle did it come off? It doesnt appear to come off that 01-6 v6 camry , as ive checked all the compressors on rock auto that were available for it. Been searching for a while for the perfect compressor setup,in particular the rubber piston rings, for a small engine conversion, please do tell...
2:00
TH-camrs: My minimalistic $3k studio setup.
Speedkart: Cardboad on the floor and used boxers.
Yep that's me
As simple as it gets
Great video! I'm working on Denso 7SEU16C, which is a clutchless continuously variable compressor. The compressor shaft is spinning whenever the belt is turning (no clutch!), and a solenoid controls the swash plate angle. Because it doesn't have a clutch, you don't see the compressor engage as you can with the clutch versions, so sometimes the clutchless compressors get replaced because people think the compressor is toast (because they can't get the clutch to engage...but there is no clutch!). These clutchless variables also get overcharged because the gauge display doesn't have the "kick on, kick off" on the low side that you see with regular clutch compressors. So there are a little different. They are found on vehicles that have high-end climate control systems which don't require the driver to constantly change the climate controls (ie, you can set a temperature). The ECU can use engine rpm and all kinds of other info to vary the voltage to the compressor control valve (solenoid) to adjust the swash plate. So with these clutchless variables, you don't even see the engine rpm change when you turn the AC on.
I'm replacing the control valve/solenoid on an old (2003) Denso clutchless variable because the solenoids get intermittent failures as they get older. Great video, and perhaps you can open up a Denso clutchless sometime! The one I'm working on is from an '03 Mercedes ML350, and they were put on a lot of MB's, Lexus, and of course Toyotas.
I know instances where such a compressor has been used with manual climate controls (rotate the heater knob until you feel comfortable type of control) too.
Can you name a couple of vehicles that have this kind of ac comp.
@@RamSharma-90_64 Yes -- I have seen it on 2003 and newer Mercedes Benz's that have the M113 or M112 engine (ML350, ML500, etc), and also BMW's but also some Toyotas. I think they are becoming more popular so we will see them more often.
Good explanation....I am having an issue with 2012 kia optima...low side pressure is high and cabin air is warm....when I rev engine up to 2500 rpms the low pressure drops and air gets cold...I think this is a clutchless compressor and my thinking is the angle plate is not changing because of a faulty solenoid valve....when I rev it up even though the displacement stays the same (barely open small displacement) I at least get some compression/suction because of the speed of the compressor....
@@RamSharma-90_64 Toyota Camry ACV40
Brother, it's a goddamn shame your videos don't get more views. Everyone I've shown them to is amazed how easy it is to grasp a concept once its broken down, and you do a great job explaining stuff along with videos. Thanks for helping all of us learn!
You are welcome , I hope I get more views soon please share
Stumbled into this and had to watch. Brought back memories. Couple things: 1) this is not a variable swashplate, it's a wobble plate. Old GM V5 might have been one of the early variables to have this, but had a tendency to throw itself to full stroke at high rpm because of kinematic imbalance so it would have to declutch. Swashplate variables are much more controlled because they are kinematically balanced (high rpm they want to destroke). 2) control valve controls the stroke by changing crank pressure, not cylinder pressures. Low suction will cause valve open throwing discharge gases into crank and destroking. High suction will cause valve to close opening the crank to suction. There are some other control holes to ensure oil circulates. Non electric valves used a bellows or a diaphragm to sense suction pressure.
thank for sharing,
now i got more idea
Great underwear advise in the quarantine times :D
Very useful when you can't go to the coin laundry
@@speedkar99 hey can you please differenciate between tha AC compressors of the 1980s and the ones from 2020.
@@speedkar99 can i use this for my paintjub?
Pro trick : watch movies on Flixzone. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Lorenzo Andrew Yea, I've been using Flixzone} for years myself =)
Love your videos, you are very knowledgeable and you explain relatively complex things very well, with a bit of humor thrown in. Watched this one in particular because the ac compressor in my son's car has never worked, had it checked and is receiving power, the guy at the shop said it would require a new compressor. It's a 2003 Honda Accord. Was looking at taking it in repair but now I'll buy the part on Amazon and do it myself, I feel confident in doing this now because your video has 'de-mystified' the compressor, it is nothing more than a pump and really relatively simple one (nevertheless a very clever design). Keep up the good work.
You have the EE guy and then you have Speedkar. I prefer seeing tear downs along with the math and science over the whiteboard. Keep it up man.
Thanks. I've experiemented with paper explaination in the past but I feel there's just something about physically taking it apart making it easier to understand
Great work mate Thanks! Saves me time taking one apart myself someday. The work that has gone into it is beautiful
Thanks! Hey you can still take one apart too!
Good job. Thank you for this crash course on Variable Capacity Solenoid controlled A/C compressors.
That was really cool! I never expected that thing to look like that on the inside.
The variable part of the swash plate was pretty cool !
Fantastic and fascinating overview of an A/C system!
Thanks! Glad you appreciate this video
Excellent work here. This is basically an early Calsonic's take at the Harrison V5 comp. They later switched to an even simpler design that yields a smaller and even more efficient compressor, by removing the front nutating plate (actually called a wobble plate) and attaching pistons to the rear plate (the swashplate) by means of hemispherical shoes rather than rods, and that is the CVC (Compact Variable Compressor) compressor equipped on my car (even though mine has a mechanical control valve that doesn't act upon any external input, it just senses both the suction pressure and the discharge pressure and tries to regulate them to optimal values). The dye is not necessarily a sign of diagnosis having been taken on the vehicle's AC; it's usually fitted every time a service is done to better diagnose a leak in case one springs soon after the service. Some OEMs even include it in the factory. Personally, i see enough oil inside to think that the compressor has been ran with a good refrigerant charge most of its life. There's some rust, maybe owner didn't care about replacing the dryer/a DIY kit has been used to "top up" the AC and/or the system has been kept open for some time in its life. 2:55 That's an HPRV valve that pops open whenever discharge pressure becomes too high for some reason. Oil drain bolt is located forwards, towards the front (hex nut at 1:36), in order to aid oil removal. 3:31 Not only the pistons are moving up and down; at that time, they're doing so in the lowest displacement the compressor can attain (as you can better understand at 5:28). Interesting behaviour (and design) because the Harrison V5's mechanism will be doing the exact opposite, i.e. it will be driving the pistons at their maximum displacement in the same condition. That means that the Calsonic compressor has a "softer" start (the control valve, however, soon restores maximum displacement by bleeding the crankcase pressure to the suction side, if required). The CVC compressor in my car has the same perk. Rotate the clutch hub by hand in a summer day and it will get increasingly stiffer to turn as you keep turning it. That's because the plate's angle relative to the shaft is decreasing and the pistons are trying to compress more refrigerant.
Yes
Nice fast pace breakdown. Straight down to business with on boring intro. Good job !
Really terrific explanation of something most of us don't know much about but use every day.
This was an interesting learning experience for me as well
Very cool speedkar! Thank you, always watch your videos but particularly this one since I just had my AC serviced as it was leaking at the service ports but they drain the oil and vacuumed it down for the correct charge and I'm guessing they wanted to make sure that there was no moisture in the system. Watching a video like this makes me think of all them parts and how everything comes together to keep my ass cool in the summer!
This is what we call a wobble plate compressor, a swash plate compressor is a little bit different.The ECV regulates the angle of the wobble plate or the swash plate through electromagentic pulms, the bigger the angle the bigger the efficiency of the compressor. This was not a drain screw but it was the overpressure relief valve which usually opens above 30 bar..it helpus understand wether there was an overpressure in the system and protects the a/c compressor at the same time, on the pistons there is a light layer of teflon for friction reduction, good video - now your stuff!
WOW. so basically it's like a variable valve lift. what's next? an AC compressor with v-tec.
Lolz.
Oh my God.
@Alex Tarasov Haha literally!!
Good one! this is more like continuously variable piston lift
It's just a simple 6 cylinder compressor with a wobble crankshaft. They have been making these since the 70s.
It works in the same way as a variable displacement hydraulic pump - like that which is used on a excavator.
This guy is a scientist
Or maybe an archaeologist to discover old technology like this?
Man! Is there anything you don't know about car maintenance? you're really knowledgeable! 👍
Great job on showing the variable compressor internals. Using existing pressures and PCM controlled positioning, is important for DIY’s to know why low pressure switches stop compressor operation completely, protecting the compressor from failure due to loss of oil that ONLY flow with refrigerant. This is done to reduce engine load, increasing fuel economy, like alternator control, power steering 10% on the highway but 90% at slow speed for turning the steering wheel. Pressure switches are more important than ever, as we migrate from R12, R134 now R1234Y or what ever they call it this week.
Please note the clutch coil when de-energized as mutual induction can produce 180 volts requiring a forward biased diode of 1/4 watt facing the positive wire. It can be located at the compressor, 10” up the harness or in a fuse box. Just food for future video if you have access to a labscope set to trigger at any signal above 90 volts.
The same design is used to create hydraulic motors for hydrostatic drive systems but with some manual control of the rotary squash plate to control speed or even reverse. Thanks!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Thanks for your input!
Awesome design, thanks for the explanation on how it works.
You are welcome. Very unique indeed
Besides all the really cool tech infor (I plan to get certified from these videos) but a chance to see the family laundry aired....
Thanks for the humor and entertainment while learning about these complicated subjects.
Excellent video. Very informative 👍🏻
Another great video,you are are a smart guy.Keep them coming.
Thanks!
Somehow I missed this one. Brilliant summary!
Awesome
Excellent breakdown and video.... Much appreciated👍 The a.c. compressor is basically a mini engine which is why it's best start it BELOW 2000rpm (idle preferred)
Thanks. It's a pump more than an engine, it takes Mechanical energy and turns it into potential energy in the compressed refridgerant
You'll find a lot of compressors which have a fixed displacement switch their clutch on and off continously on the highway to keep the evaporator from freezing up. No matter what rpm the engine is at. Yet they, and their clutches, last for decades if properly maintained. Auto compressors are designed for that. It's larger AC compressors such as bus ones that should never cycle.
@@teravolt6113 The AC compressor on my car is also variable displacement but it has no clutch.
Good job champ, I’ve never seen one taken apart and I’ve been to auto tech school.
2:25 thanks for tip now i throw away 3/4 of my underwear
you gotta make use of what you have in these hard times!
Excellent video as usual, thanks
You are welcome!
Superb video!
Great explanation!
Awesome!
thanx for video, really wanted to hear see something away from that god damn virus.
Yeah alot of people are turning online now, its good to get away from what's going on. That also means I gotta focus more on filming for you all!
great video thanks.
Brilliant explanation. Thank you 👍
Welcome
Great video thanks. 👍
Awesome video! 👌
very educative. Thank you regards
You are welcome
Good job, very helpful❤❤.
Glad it was helpful!
Your the best!!
Such a great humour... Super
Vidio mudah dimegerti.....thanks all. 👍👍👍good job
Hey brother thanks for vídeo,Very good!!!!I'm from BRAZIL!!!
Hello from Canada.
@@speedkar99 cool Man,If you want to know Brazil you Will be very welcome!!!
Excelent explanation. Congrats
Thanks
Seems like your brother recently purchased this toothbrush 😂 and underbear
He keeps having to buy new ones if I keep stealing them!
Awesome video brother. Always wondered how they work and the added underwear joke was funny
شكرا لك اخي
You deserve way more subscribers
I wish!
Ah, so that's why at idle the A.C. is not as cool as when I'm cruising along. It operates on the engine Rpm's. Great video. I'm a new subscriber, great channel.
Yes. On the highway when your engine is revving is when you get the best AC
@@speedkar99 thanks. I really like my Elantra. 2018. 2.0 with a manual transmission. I change the synth oil every 4k-4500. The AC is nice once you step on the gas! And the AC makes shifting a little less smooth because it's a pull on the motor.
@@joeb2588 With your compressor this can also be the result of a low refrigerant charge or a faulty compressor control valve
@@teravolt6113 ok. Thanks. It's just not as cold when at idle but as quiet as this engine is and I get over 40mpgs. ...it is not powerful so maybe that could have something to do with it. The car has been very good reliability wise however maybe I'll just have the dealer give it a quick look just in case.
@@speedkar99 not so much because of the rpms on the highway, but more the condensor air flow is high so discharge pressures decline. Condensor effectiveness sets discharge pressure (assuming the correct refrigerant charge). So idle pressures go up, TXV closes to try to keep evap pressures low at low refrigerant flows. Compressor or computer will see the suction pressure increase and increase the stroke on the variable compressor.
thanks for sharing this video.
You are welcome
Good stuff
Thank you
I am always amazed how every system in a modern car is very complex than the engine itself. I used to think that understanding the ICE engine workings plus the transmission will make me a car guru. Now I am a disilusioned guy.
I'm always learning myself! Amazing how much technology goes into cars...from 20 years ago
I love your videos but I’m sure your brother hates it the way you use his socks, underwear, and toothbrushes. 🤣🤣🤣
Not my problem 😈
That's not an oil drain. It's a pressure relief valve for if the system pressure gets too high.
Yeah he's making too much out of this. It's a basic 6 cylinder compressor with a wobble crankshaft. It's nice to show how one works. I rebuild my first one of these in 1979..
Excellent videos as always but in this one you could have give a brief explaination what it does in car if you have the time
I explained that in the air conditioning loop diagram
I love the toothbrush and the underpants. That's a really nice idea
It works !
@@speedkar99 Works nicely
Ya brother is pissed @ you bringing out his business in various videos.... keep up the good work and useful info!
Can I replace a fixed compressor with a variable one ? Will it work ? For Honda Civic 2004.
good video .the valve plate has a broken leaf causing a loud banging big end bearing gone sound.
“Let me tell you what my brother taught me” this had me dying
thanks for this excelent vid , bro.!! I got one of those variable ac and my issue is it constantly turn off and on , i would say every 40 seconds or so , what could be the problem ?
please where can I get the papers that you are showing ? even in digital form , it looks very useful
I'm replacing the idle bearing the next weekend or so, in addition I'm replacing the low side suction line. Would I benefit taking apart the AC compressor to clean it up and refill it with PAG 46 afterword's? Do you need any other seals? I bought an o-ring kit for the hoses, has about 16 o-rings.
Excelente
Hahaha I love how in your videos you got a different piece of your brother clothing to clean with, that is too funny
This is really neat: a sort of continuously variable hydraulic transmission. I wonder if this same swash plate system has been used in other settings (in addition to helicopters).
Also: did I miss something? How does the solenoid valve continuously vary the link between the input and output ports? I thought solenoids were usually all on or all off only.
The swash plate system is used in many hydraulic pumps especially in heavy duty industrial applications. A solenoid can be pulse width modulated by the computer therefore making it variable.
Excellent video. Now I know why my 08 Yaris lose 10 horses each time I turn on the AC. Is there such a thing as an all electric AC compressor?
Yes
That must be like being stuck in 2nd gear on your Yaris! I can feel the slight power loss on my V6 cars sometimes. Some hybrid cars have electric compressors. Also think of your home A/C....its powered by electricity too!
The one in my Prius is electric. It runs off the hybrid battery, but like all energy, the power has to come from somewhere. It will still draw tons of power to do its job, also, the Prius compressor/motor assembly is nearly $1000 alone.
It runs off of an inverter and the speed is varied like that..... The newest Prius also uses it as a heat pump so it can be full electric.
I HAVE 2016 Silverado and my question is how to by pass my solenoid valve ,like the older compressor style? I DONT WANT VARIABLE PRESSURES, ANY WAY TO ELIMINATE THE VALVE?
Is there anyway to know if you have a fixed o variable compressor by just looking at it? Maybe a sticker or a particural note to look for?
Btw: love your videos, keep it up please
why sometimes ac blows hot when car isn't moving it always happens with this type of ac compressor, after changing the electric valve it start back blowing cold but not for long
tnx
00:19 Isn't the high pressure side the smaller one?
help me growling Sound from AC compressor during idling with AC off , after switching ON AC no sound at all cooling is good but as I switch off AC or cabin reaches desired temperature sound again starts, is this bcoz of low compressor oil ?? (when refrigerant flows compressor has enough oil to lubricate and when AC off compressor doesn't have oil for lubrication as refrigerant flow stops(my theory)).. hyundai elite i20 uses VDC any one help...pl
Man, don't do messy things like that on your studio. lol
Great video as always.
Yeah A/C work gets messy especially when there's so much dye! My cardboard studio smells like PAG oil now!
@speedkar99 What’s more reliable? Fixed OR variable displacement piston a/c compressors?
oh that's cool, the AC compressor is like a Duke Axial Engine or a I call it the "revolver cylinder engine"
I’m looking at wiring a 12V compressor in parallel with a compressor of this style. Would that control valve be closed when the compressor is off? I ask as I am wondering if I need a check valve to prevent this moving backflow while the other compressor starts.
I also ask because finding this type of universal hvac check valve has been a chore, everything’s just hydraulic npt.
Good 👍👌
Thanks
Do automobile A/C compressors need crankcase heaters? And if not, why? Thanks!
Excellent job profesor ! Even though I don't know your name, I think that you are a great teacher and a funny guy as well while making jokes with your brother' underpants! You are a bit faster while explainind Would you mind slowing down please Anyway I have learned a lot from you! Thank you!
Thanks. I try to keep my videos concise to keep retention and interest. Feel free to slow down the playback speed if you need detail
Awesome video man! Compressors look quite sturdy, what causes them to seize? I did a mistake by adding refrigerant to the system but I'm sure I did a mistake (the pressure reading of the freon can that I bought must've been wrong) and after driving for a day a weird friction sound appeared then the serpentine belt snapped.
Not enough oil returning to the compressor while it's running is what kills them. Running the AC with not enough refrigerant is what causes the reduced oil circulation rate (refrigerant tends to stop inside the evaporator where it's thickest and the refrigerant carries less oil around as the mass flow rate decreases and the evaporator superheat increases) and the higher than normal evaporator superheat can also overheat the compressor degrading whatever oil is left inside. Insufficient lubrication means friction and too much friction eventually ends into something welding to something else or wearing to the point that it falls out of place.
8 likes
Good sharing
Thanks
I thought the variable type didn't have a clutch and the shaft is always spinning with the pulley and therefore the workload is controlled with the valve. This compressor seems to have both.
There are cars with both designs. Most manufacturers have added a clutch system with a variable compressor so that if the compressor seizes and fails, it won’t affect the serpentine belt and other accessories.
I love the way you fuck with you brother in ur vids
Brotherly love
dear sir, can 8 get hold of the pdf file which you show inbetween, for better understanding, n280 valve, regards
so what is the difference between normal AC compressor? Does magnet clutch on/off self regulates refrigerant pressure? If RPMs are too much - clutch off, if RPM too low - clutch on. I don't see the point except more complex AC compressor and parts which can break.
Clutching on and off is somewhat inefficient, because the pressure is fixed. That would be like flooring your car's gas pedal and then letting off all the way to maintain speed, without variability in between.
@@speedkar99 Thank you for your reply. I just took a look into a different video about vtec AC compressor, the sole purpose of this variable AC compressor was to get rid of magnetic clutch. but it also didnt work, they kept it. Also, my accord's ac compressor, like your in your video, has magnetic clutch and vtec.
Clutch saves your compressor if for some reason you have to drive the car with an empty AC system. It also allows better engine power management with small engines. The Toyota iQ's compressor has both variable displacement and a clutch for this reason.
Thanks for the underwear tips!
Thank my brother for that one lol 😩
Can you make a variable compression Duke engine with this?
Yes but you'd probably have to beef up the seals and connecting rods
I would think that when the control valve closes, reducing flow, you would want a shorter stroke on your pistons, but it seemed like you were saying the opposite.
I have a question. In cars with variable displacement compressors, it is supposed that the compressor is operating as long as the car motor is rotating. So, what does exactly pressing the AC switch button do in this case?
Engage the clutch
@@speedkar99
I mean in cluchless compressor (variable displacment compressor)
@@alaaomraneg Pressing the AC button (or engaging the defroster) energizes the solenoid in the control valve so that flow changes within the compressor housing and refrigerant begins being drawn away from the crankcase, increasing displacement. The increasing displacement causes a discharge or suction side check valve to open within the compressor housing, and refrigerant actually starts circulating within the AC loop. Turning the AC or defroster off causes the solenoid within the control valve to de-energize, routing refrigerant to the crankcase and increasing its pressure. The aforementioned check valve shuts off as soon as the displacement decreases enough, and refrigerant stops circulating inside the AC loop. The compressor basically gets "short-circuited" and any refrigerant circulation now takes place only within the compressor housing. However, even if the AC and defroster are kept off the climate control unit periodically energizes the control valve in order to circulate some refrigerant and lubricant through the system and to the compressor for a short while, keeping it cool. Displacement never gets 0 since recovering the correct swashplate angle is impossible when the swashplate is 90° relative to the compressor shaft. Hence the check valve.
I wonder what your thoughts on rebuilt ac compressors are.... Or if it's even possible to do it yourself?
Typically the seals are what go bad, if not the clutch. It really has to be done right and pressure tested to make sure it'll last. I would rather toss a used compressor in than rebuild it.
Not worth your time and money. By the time you have all the needed tools you've already spent the money needed for a good quality reman comp, that is if you've managed to successfully reassembly your old compressor. I'd say clutches, externally mounted control valves and o-rings are the most a wise DIYer or shop should deal with. Leave anything else to rebuilders if you don't wanna risk losing money, time and your sanity...
if its the pressure that controls the angle of the pistons. what creates that pressure in the first place?, the solenoid only controls the amount of pressure coming in or going out, it doesn't create any pressure by itself,
much explanation is needed.
The movement of the pistons create pressure.
The ECU controls how much of that pressure is bypassed to the back side of the piston (and therefore adjusts the swash plate angle). It's a closed loop control system
@@speedkar99
so the pistons themselves create enough pressure to work against it and also output the work needed for air conditioning?, sounds too good to be true fro me, how does the law of thermodynamics play in this??.
@@roosterred7924 The engine is what's nutating (through another rotating plate) the plate that is driving the pistons forwards and backwards and giving the needed work for air conditioning to happen. The pressure gradient between the cylinders and the crankcase, which is what the control valve is able to act upon, is what makes the plate tilt in one direction or the other. There will always be a pressure gradient while the compressor is driven as long as the plates never achieve 90° relative to the compressor shaft. There's no magic involved here.
I have a Toyota vitz with a variable compressor that works great but a lot of owners have the issue of the compressor failing. Could you make a video explaining why it fails?
If it's the Denso 5SE09 clutchless comp it's likely the refrigerant charge getting too low for proper compressor lubrication when the engine is revved up, or defective control valves that prevent the compressor from turning on
Can you put it back together?
If pressure of AC compressor not.enough resulted, what is the part to be supposed to replaced..? If, where the parts we can get..? Thanks
Parts store, rockauto, dealership.
When your AC compressor has more cylinders than your engine xD
on the 4th day is wild 😂 are we still talking about compressors?
His brother :wtf my underbear is more greener
Hey it was already green can't blame me
If your AC breaks because of a leak and you don't plan on fixing it, disconnect the power to it because the clutch will engage in the heat/defrost mode. The compressor can freeze up with no fluid in it.
If the system leaks/breaks, the no/low pressure will prevent the clutch from engaging, kind of a safety measure.
@@pcnepal Mine kept engaging and eventually froze up. Disconnected the power and no more problems. 92 Ford Taurus.
Most likely rust kept the clutch plate spinning with the worn out clutch bearing all the time then the latter eventually froze up . If you still have your compressor, open it up to check. I bet the internal is still intact.
@@pcnepal Thanks. Still need the compressor just for the pulley. When the car finally dies I will check it out.
Sorry, overlooked you said "Disconnected the power and no more problems"
Then a 92 Taurus' a/c system is quite primitive in a sense; it lacks a low pressure switch apparently!
@speedkar99 This compressor is the setup ive been searching for for my model engine conversion....
What vehicle did it come off?
It doesnt appear to come off that 01-6 v6 camry , as ive checked all the compressors on rock auto that were available for it.
Been searching for a while for the perfect compressor setup,in particular the rubber piston rings, for a small engine conversion, please do tell...
Infiniti G35
@@speedkar99 youre a legend, speedkar, ta from downunder.