Steve, I'm loving the details. Gr8 public service detail on that Open Web Truss. On our Seattle home in 1985 house, the builder did not pay particularly close attention, and the day we moved into the house, it caught fire. A wire was pulled tightly around one of the nailing plates and it had sheared off that insulating coating on the wires. 🔥
@Steven Baczek Architect...Steve, Xcellant presentation of those great details and I will be using those details when I go to build, as always and for every video that I watch and observe Liked#33 N Subscribed!!!
Love you vids with loads of information. However it gets a little deppressing when I look at my 1972 rancher and see how much better it could have been done.
Hi Steve ! Thanks for the videos. I can't quite tell in that last clip... How do you transition from zip r on the wall to regular zip on the gable ends? In order to keep the outside zip in plane? Do the gable end trusses get packed out or do you push out the gable truss in an extended double top plate?
Steve, just wondering on the extended return whether it was considered to bring that extended eave all the way across the gable wall, creating a low overhang for all the windows on that wall. Aesthetically it woulld divide a tall gable wall, but at additional cost. I have one of those on my house that extends all the way over the garage doors that was done purely for aesthetics since it faces the street. One thing that is not covered much on the channel is the esthetics. Just a suggestion if you run out of new building science content.✌️
We look at it, but it nis the side of the house where the cost outwieghs the decision. If it were on the front or out by the pool, it may have had more value
Will there be horizontal blocking on the seams where the sheathing is run horizontally? In RI we always had to block all of those and I see people standing sheets vertical now to achieve the full perimeter nailing on the sheets but I’m not a huge fan of that.
Just a little curious about a double stud (2x4) taped seam OSB wall with a site applied WRB, compared to a ZIP system wall (2x6) from both a cost and performance standpoint.
What I’m still not fully understanding is the vapor retarder/air barrier on the ceiling. Does it just get taped or stapled to the bottom of the trusses? Then furred down for electrical before drywall? It seems like the insulation would then pull it down and possibly tear it. Or do you skip furring it down and then you have the drywall pressed right against it, sandwiching it between the truss and drywall and just air seal your penetrations there? If I plan on blowing r80 of loose fill cellulose is there any risk of the drywall not being able to support that weight at some point? I’m planning on doing this detail to my own build soon. Thanks!
I think, and I could be wrong…that what we’re seeing there is the zip wrapping back into the rough opening at all 4 faces. Then they came back and added a sloped sill plate. Later they’ll use flex tape over the sill plate and form a sill pan. The tape will cover all the exposed wood you can see in this video.
I'm slowly doing more and more of these details. I work with alot of SIGA products. Tired of seeing the 0 effort, 2x4 exterior wall, paper house wrap builders have more success.
I don't see the point of doing window returns with wood when an extra pass of zip tape achieves the same effect bringing it in past where the window mounts. Also that 7/16th spacing if you're using nailing flange windows (which are 1980's tech and need to die) however that puts the screws/nails hitting that seam and will be a pita.
I think it’s more important to do with zip R because you need to close out the foam on the ends of the sheet. If you just had zip sheathing against the stud, you can tape that corner because it’s all solid and no foam to cover up.
@@CMCraftsmanI just spanned the zip over the foam and to the interior stud on mine. Basically brought the zip tape back to just before the drywall and rolled it onto the studs for sealing. the airspace under the tape if it doesn't stick to the foam doesn't matter as much if either side is airtight.
Architects and builders need to design in quality, comfort, longevity and water control. Water is the enemy of buildings. Include the landscape designer to insure that the home has proper drainage away from the building.
Steve, I'm loving the details.
Gr8 public service detail on that Open Web Truss.
On our Seattle home in 1985 house, the builder did not pay particularly close attention, and the day we moved into the house, it caught fire. A wire was pulled tightly around one of the nailing plates and it had sheared off that insulating coating on the wires. 🔥
@Steven Baczek Architect...Steve, Xcellant presentation of those great details and I will be using those details when I go to build, as always and for every video that I watch and observe Liked#33 N Subscribed!!!
Thank ypu for joining in
Love you vids with loads of information. However it gets a little deppressing when I look at my 1972 rancher and see how much better it could have been done.
If it is any consolation, the minute we finish a project I am thinking of the improvements for the next one.....
Nice Steve!
Thank you for joining in
Thanks for all of the details. Why didn't the mudsill joint get taped first? Why wasn't it taped at all?
It will eventually
Hi Steve ! Thanks for the videos. I can't quite tell in that last clip... How do you transition from zip r on the wall to regular zip on the gable ends? In order to keep the outside zip in plane? Do the gable end trusses get packed out or do you push out the gable truss in an extended double top plate?
Steve, just wondering on the extended return whether it was considered to bring that extended eave all the way across the gable wall, creating a low overhang for all the windows on that wall. Aesthetically it woulld divide a tall gable wall, but at additional cost. I have one of those on my house that extends all the way over the garage doors that was done purely for aesthetics since it faces the street. One thing that is not covered much on the channel is the esthetics. Just a suggestion if you run out of new building science content.✌️
We look at it, but it nis the side of the house where the cost outwieghs the decision. If it were on the front or out by the pool, it may have had more value
Will there be horizontal blocking on the seams where the sheathing is run horizontally? In RI we always had to block all of those and I see people standing sheets vertical now to achieve the full perimeter nailing on the sheets but I’m not a huge fan of that.
Not needed her
Just a little curious about a double stud (2x4) taped seam OSB wall with a site applied WRB, compared to a ZIP system wall (2x6) from both a cost and performance standpoint.
Do you recommend Zip tape along the horizontal joint between the extended mud sill and the first sheet of Zip R?
yes, its simply flashing
I like Siga fentrim for that spot down onto the foundation but as long as it’s sealed with something suitable I’d say you’re good.
"Pay attention and whatchacallit". I laughed.
yeah video is realtime, and never quite perfect......and I try to stay real....
What I’m still not fully understanding is the vapor retarder/air barrier on the ceiling. Does it just get taped or stapled to the bottom of the trusses? Then furred down for electrical before drywall?
It seems like the insulation would then pull it down and possibly tear it. Or do you skip furring it down and then you have the drywall pressed right against it, sandwiching it between the truss and drywall and just air seal your penetrations there? If I plan on blowing r80 of loose fill cellulose is there any risk of the drywall not being able to support that weight at some point?
I’m planning on doing this detail to my own build soon. Thanks!
follow along, its coming
Why no zip on the sill in the first tip for rough openings?
I think, and I could be wrong…that what we’re seeing there is the zip wrapping back into the rough opening at all 4 faces. Then they came back and added a sloped sill plate. Later they’ll use flex tape over the sill plate and form a sill pan. The tape will cover all the exposed wood you can see in this video.
@@marcitecture No zip at the sill - it's a solid full width 2X "Rip Sill", watch Fridays details video for more
I'm slowly doing more and more of these details. I work with alot of SIGA products. Tired of seeing the 0 effort, 2x4 exterior wall, paper house wrap builders have more success.
thanks for joining in
I don't see the point of doing window returns with wood when an extra pass of zip tape achieves the same effect bringing it in past where the window mounts. Also that 7/16th spacing if you're using nailing flange windows (which are 1980's tech and need to die) however that puts the screws/nails hitting that seam and will be a pita.
These aren't flanged windows, they are flangeless and the 7/16" wood gives something for the exterior extension jamb to nail to.
I think it’s more important to do with zip R because you need to close out the foam on the ends of the sheet. If you just had zip sheathing against the stud, you can tape that corner because it’s all solid and no foam to cover up.
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 makes sense. maybe that's a good video idea. detailing the different approaches based on window type
@@CMCraftsmanI just spanned the zip over the foam and to the interior stud on mine. Basically brought the zip tape back to just before the drywall and rolled it onto the studs for sealing. the airspace under the tape if it doesn't stick to the foam doesn't matter as much if either side is airtight.
Architects and builders need to design in quality, comfort, longevity and water control. Water is the enemy of buildings.
Include the landscape designer to insure that the home has proper drainage away from the building.
Totally agree......