Dude I've been screwing around with this stuck barrel nut for like almost 2h, your technique worked in one torque. Absolute legend for showing this. 🙏🏻
I just removed a muzzle break that was to tight from the factory. I was trippin over it. Used wd-40 around the thread area over night, wrapped the rifle in a moving blanket kneeled on it and super bingo!! popped right loose. thanks for the great ideas!
Thanks for posting your video, dude. After wasting an hour trying to remove my A2 flash arrester using a vice grip and wood shims to keep the barrel from turning, I found your video and a comment suggested heating the muzzle device in hot water. I held the arrester under a stream of hot water at my kitchen sink for a minute, then I sat on my rifle and the arrester came off easily in seconds. I don't know if the hot water made things easiest. Regardless, you and @sinenkoalexander are the men of the hour!
Thanks for this, in my stupid attempt on removing the a2 flash hider from my PSA, I cracked a piece off the free float barrel shroud, so now I have an excuse to upgrade the rifle with better parts.
I understand why your doing this, and I mean no disrespect. My concern is the stress on upper receiver. Of course I’d also never use that vise block neither, while I know that method has put together 100s of 1000s ARs still not the best way. Spend $30-$65 on a reaction rod of Amazon. Don’t risk the possible damage to the receiver.
I did this for a Bravo Campany pinned castle nut 2 years ago to remove the tube that only used certain stocks (SBR I believe) to mount a standard mil-spec. Great minds think alike when we don't own a bench or block.
I just used this technique to remove the muzzle device from a new Sig Sauer Rattler LT. I first submerged the end of the barrel in boiling water for 4-minutes, then used this technique. Worked like a champ!
I was trying to remove my flash can off my barrel but I was doing it with the lower removed. I'll try it with the lower attached so I can finally install my can I've been waiting for for 9 months. Hope this works so I can save money on a clamp and vice block which I'll need in the future. Thanks.
Did this and my whole barrel twisted and rifle wouldn't go into battery then ( didn't know the barrel stripped ) was putting my bcg back in the extractor pin sheered off, needless to say had to send the rifle back to smith & wesson obviously this method works i just don't know what i did wrong
GUYS GET A FKN VISE AT HARBOR FREIGHT AND A MAGPUL BEV BLOCK. LESS THAN $120. Stop putting so much torque on the wrong parts of your rifle. The only part of the rifle that should be taking 30-80 ft-lbs is the star chamber. Do not use clamshell vise blocks. Bev block/ midwest industries URR only.
Yes id 100% recommend a vise BUT! This is a removal video not an installation video. Removing it this way is just as much force as setting it on a reaction rod or bev block just a tad bit easier.
The last 3 ar’s ive built ive never actually torqued them, i make sure i have what i want and i tighten it as much as i can. You can use this method to do just that, the same amount of strength it took to take it off id do that plus some to put it back on
This is horrible advice. Go to your local gun store. They usually have a vice you can use for this type of stuff. This technique is OK for removal but for installation you really need to torque it correctly.
I used a 1-1/4 for the barrel nut and 13/16 (13/16 is for .223/5.56 muzzles) these should work but i was working on a .50BW barrel nut so not exactly sure if its the same for 5.56/223
@@jaburger07 you clicked on this video to say that? If your reciever gets damaged from removing a barrel nut you better start paying a little extra for your guns lol
@jaburger07 if doing something the same way 1000 times works what makes you think the 1001st time will fail. I suppose logic was not something you sharpened up
Man, I’m in the process of building my first 300 BO AR, and this video came right on time! I want to put together my upper w/o needing a smith. I’ve already changed my muzzle device on my 556; 300 rounds through it since and no problems. Yeah, I’m gonna try this to get the rest of upper completed! 👍🏽
@@vietnamtactical an action rod with a receiver support such as the one from Midwest Industries is the proper way. It’s not the force used, it’s where that torque is directed to. Your technique clearly works and it may work 99/100, but it is imparting excess torque on the index pin and upper and could cause significant damage.
This is why I will never buy a home built AR from someone I don't know lol.. That method is a great way to bend the receivers or strip out the uppers indication notch/threads..
@@vietnamtactical Using a Midwest URR or a 2 Unique spud with sails while installing or removing a barrel will place all of the torque evenly along the inside of the upper receiver, instead of the uppers index notch..Many index pins have been broken using your method and many types of vice blocks.. Sitting on the upper receiver can crush or twist the upper using your Guerrilla gunsmithing method..This is why some carriers will not slide freely in the upper..They will get tight spots, especially around the ejection port..
I bought a bear creek AR just to have because it was only like 300 bucks. And the first think I tried to do was change that god awful hand guard. It was so tight I ended up having to dremel it off 😂
If you have an armorers wrench you can do the same method to take off the castle nut, it might help if you have the wrench on the nut with the buttstock on so you can sit on the receiver and brace a off the stock
“No homo” 😂 Cool trick, man, thanks for posting!
Finally, my tactical girth is going to pay off.
Dude I've been screwing around with this stuck barrel nut for like almost 2h, your technique worked in one torque. Absolute legend for showing this. 🙏🏻
Glad it helped!
I just removed a muzzle break that was to tight from the factory. I was trippin over it. Used wd-40 around the thread area over night, wrapped the rifle in a moving blanket kneeled on it and super bingo!! popped right loose. thanks for the great ideas!
Glad it helped man!
Bro THANK YOUUUU lmaoo!! I was beating on my armors wrench with a hammer for a hour. Seen your video and got barrel nut off in 2 seconds flat lol
Instructions unclear- I have been cursing out this gun for an hour
Thanks for posting your video, dude. After wasting an hour trying to remove my A2 flash arrester using a vice grip and wood shims to keep the barrel from turning, I found your video and a comment suggested heating the muzzle device in hot water. I held the arrester under a stream of hot water at my kitchen sink for a minute, then I sat on my rifle and the arrester came off easily in seconds. I don't know if the hot water made things easiest. Regardless, you and @sinenkoalexander are the men of the hour!
Make sure to oil those parts if submerged in water to prevent any rusting brotha and glad it helped!
Thanks for this, in my stupid attempt on removing the a2 flash hider from my PSA, I cracked a piece off the free float barrel shroud, so now I have an excuse to upgrade the rifle with better parts.
@@scarletrain2818 no problem. Hopefully this helps out with all your future builds👌
@@vietnamtactical It definitely will until I can get a proper workshop set up and not use my bed for all my gunsmithing and cleaning.
Wow it really does work and holding the grip down helps too 😂😅
I understand why your doing this, and I mean no disrespect. My concern is the stress on upper receiver. Of course I’d also never use that vise block neither, while I know that method has put together 100s of 1000s ARs still not the best way. Spend $30-$65 on a reaction rod of Amazon. Don’t risk the possible damage to the receiver.
I did this for a Bravo Campany pinned castle nut 2 years ago to remove the tube that only used certain stocks (SBR I believe) to mount a standard mil-spec. Great minds think alike when we don't own a bench or block.
Omgggggg 😂😂😂 ty so much bro. Whole closet full of stuff because I didn’t have a vise
😭😭
Awesome jiu jitsu brother, appreciate the intuitive problem solving.
I just used this technique to remove the muzzle device from a new Sig Sauer Rattler LT. I first submerged the end of the barrel in boiling water for 4-minutes, then used this technique. Worked like a champ!
For me i didnt use heat at all for my Spear LT and it came off in a couple seconds. Glad it worked!
Good idea, warming it up, I'll use a heat gun 😊
This is also great SHTF prep type stuff 👍
I was trying to remove my flash can off my barrel but I was doing it with the lower removed. I'll try it with the lower attached so I can finally install my can I've been waiting for for 9 months. Hope this works so I can save money on a clamp and vice block which I'll need in the future. Thanks.
Let me know if it worked for you!
What size wrench is that? .625?
Its somewhere in the comments i just brought my upper receiver to home depot and seen which ones fit haha
Did this and my whole barrel twisted and rifle wouldn't go into battery then ( didn't know the barrel stripped ) was putting my bcg back in the extractor pin sheered off, needless to say had to send the rifle back to smith & wesson obviously this method works i just don't know what i did wrong
Most likely an issue on s&w thats mainly why i tell people to buy higher end guns
Did you leave the bolt in and lower receiver on? Probably helps to have the bolt locked up in the chamber to prevent any barrel pins from stripping.
@billionsandbillions there's a tool called a reaction rod for that. You should become an engineer lol
Bro it work did it on my couch I just put a pillow on top and I cross my legs like you did 💪💪
Bruh this method helped me in 2024
Worked first try and didn't get this chance to try anything else.
Holy hell it worked thanks man!
GUYS GET A FKN VISE AT HARBOR FREIGHT AND A MAGPUL BEV BLOCK. LESS THAN $120. Stop putting so much torque on the wrong parts of your rifle. The only part of the rifle that should be taking 30-80 ft-lbs is the star chamber. Do not use clamshell vise blocks. Bev block/ midwest industries URR only.
Yes id 100% recommend a vise BUT! This is a removal video not an installation video. Removing it this way is just as much force as setting it on a reaction rod or bev block just a tad bit easier.
Sorry if I missed it, but what about getting one on? I don't have a vice or a torque wrench, does it matter how tight I get it?
The last 3 ar’s ive built ive never actually torqued them, i make sure i have what i want and i tighten it as much as i can. You can use this method to do just that, the same amount of strength it took to take it off id do that plus some to put it back on
@@vietnamtactical thank you brother
No problem, i have over 3000 rounds through one of my recent builds and its running just fine
This is horrible advice. Go to your local gun store. They usually have a vice you can use for this type of stuff. This technique is OK for removal but for installation you really need to torque it correctly.
@vietac yo mah men ! this video helped me a lot !
What size wrenches did you use?
I used a 1-1/4 for the barrel nut and 13/16 (13/16 is for .223/5.56 muzzles)
lol ty dude this worked so good!!!
yep, all you need is a dremel and you can do anything😵💫
Wouldnt recommend using a dremel on these parts buy hey if it works it works
What size wrench?
I used a 1-1/4 for the barrel nut and 13/16 (13/16 is for .223/5.56 muzzles) these should work but i was working on a .50BW barrel nut so not exactly sure if its the same for 5.56/223
Your a fucking life saver bro
👌👌
Lol the muzzle device wasn't the it's that barrel nut and my reaction rode won't fit because of that same BCA side charger even after HEATING
This will work dont need a reaction rod
@@vietnamtactical ended up using a big pipe wrench heat and a brass hammer it came off though 😅🤣😂
Use proper tools...this is how you sheer or bend pins and damage receiver notch.
@@jaburger07 you clicked on this video to say that? If your reciever gets damaged from removing a barrel nut you better start paying a little extra for your guns lol
@vietnamtactical You'll learn the hard way someday...may you should pay more for proper tools.
@jaburger07 if doing something the same way 1000 times works what makes you think the 1001st time will fail. I suppose logic was not something you sharpened up
Thumbs up for the no PC bs and hitting us with the "no homo" 😂😂😂😂
Gotta preach it👌
Hey thanks man im fucking around with building an ar rpk right now and these psas are super tight.
No problem let me know if this actually works, ive only used this method since its easier even if you had the proper tools
@vietnamtactical2088 I had to use heat and this method and it worked great. I had a bunch of silicone matts in my shop. It worked well
@@billydurbin8165glad to hear it worked!
Man, I’m in the process of building my first 300 BO AR, and this video came right on time! I want to put together my upper w/o needing a smith. I’ve already changed my muzzle device on my 556; 300 rounds through it since and no problems. Yeah, I’m gonna try this to get the rest of upper completed! 👍🏽
Thankfully it helped, bet your build will look sweet👌
It works. Thanks
Thank you!
This is a great way to destroy your upper clock your barrel extension, or shear your index pin
@@w.w.9047 using a vise youll be using the same amount of force to take it off lol
@@vietnamtactical an action rod with a receiver support such as the one from Midwest Industries is the proper way. It’s not the force used, it’s where that torque is directed to. Your technique clearly works and it may work 99/100, but it is imparting excess torque on the index pin and upper and could cause significant damage.
This is literally how I took my muzzle break off lmao it works
This is why I will never buy a home built AR from someone I don't know lol..
That method is a great way to bend the receivers or strip out the uppers indication notch/threads..
@@hairydogstail and doing this with a vise doesnt put the same amount of pressure on the indention notch? Make it make sense
@@vietnamtactical Using a Midwest URR or a 2 Unique spud with sails while installing or removing a barrel will place all of the torque evenly along the inside of the upper receiver, instead of the uppers index notch..Many index pins have been broken using your method and many types of vice blocks..
Sitting on the upper receiver can crush or twist the upper using your Guerrilla gunsmithing method..This is why some carriers will not slide freely in the upper..They will get tight spots, especially around the ejection port..
@@vietnamtactical th-cam.com/video/7FemsC5JStw/w-d-xo.html
I bought a bear creek AR just to have because it was only like 300 bucks. And the first think I tried to do was change that god awful hand guard. It was so tight I ended up having to dremel it off 😂
Oh yeah it was horrible but this worked somewhat well
Super helpful… it came off in less than 1 minutes
Glad it helped brotha
Cant remove my castle nut off my buffer tube. Dont have a vise grip
If you have an armorers wrench you can do the same method to take off the castle nut, it might help if you have the wrench on the nut with the buttstock on so you can sit on the receiver and brace a off the stock