Excellent explanation of the more in-depth installation settings. I found this far more beneficial than the manual as your context helped it all make sense. Thank you!!
Great Video, I just bought this because I wanted the adjustments to have control over my utility bill, my older thermostat did but took a crap. I returned X thermostat because I have an older home, though it is well insulated, it is not great like the newer homes. Thanks for the details I needed to know...
This video saved me a ton of headache. I moved into a new house that has 3 of these bad boys. 2 were set with a 2 degree threshold and 1 was set for a 5 degree. It was driving me crazy lol. Thank you now I can go on with my day.
Great video! I had only a heater when my Ecobee was installed. Later I had A/C added to my system but ecobee would only give me heat mode. After seeing this video and selecting “reconfigure” it finally recognized my A/C and gave me both heat and cold. Thank you!!!
Another way you can address humidity issues is to disable overcool and set your coof diff to 1.5 depending on if occupants tolerate being a little colder than set point to dehumidify (overcool) or a little warmer (1.5 in this example) than set point for a brief period. It might take longer to dehumidify on overcool so occupants are in the space at lower temp than set point longer (might get chilly), but 1.5 offset will make the compressor run longer and dehumidify naturally and the room temp will always be within the diff. Going the diff approach has the advantage that less humid air in summer "feels" cooler so it is more tolerable within the diff range as opposed to making the space colder just to remove more humidity, so perhaps diff method has a better trade-off. It's nice to have the two choices and setting options for different applications.
We have used this method also, but not very often. The main issues we have with it are: 1) it does the extra differential all of the time whereas the overcool on humidity demand method is only engaged as needed, 2) some customers don't like the temperature comfort (or lack of comfort) of the extra drift, and 3) some customers get confused when their stat is set for 73, but it has to say 75 on the screen for the A/C to actually kick on.
Very helpful video for those of us looking for a jump-start. I'm just wondering if you can expand on what a home owner should be shooting for on run times between 2nd and 1st stage heating?
The run time should be dictated by the way the equipment was sized and the current weather. Unless you are willing to buy new smaller HVAC equipment you should not spend much effort thinking about the lack of run hours on 2nd stage. In fact, the less 2nd stage runs the better... especially for cooling dehumidification.
We get that question a lot. In this case, Ryan's ecobee was connected to a commercial system that needed to have G energized on a heat call. Since filming that video 5 years ago, when we sit in on his training classes, he explains in detail how that setting works. If you have a traditional gas furnace, you want the equipment to control fan on that ecobee setting. This allows it to pre-warm the heat exchanger to avoid an initial blast of cold blow. However, if you have other systems such as electric heat or hydronic coils, then something often need to engage the fan so ecobee has to.
Very helpful video! I have a question about furnace stages. We just had to purchase a new unit (96% efficient York 2 stage.) The unit it replaced was also a 2 stage, but it is wired to a Nest with only 1 wire for heating and cooling. Does the furnace handle it's staging automatically, or is this wired incorrectly?
We are not very familiar with the York brand. However, we use a lot of Carrier, Bryant, Heil, Payne, and Day & Night, and all of those furnaces have the the ability to control their own 2nd stage without a W2 wire from the stat. We generally discourage this, though. The algorithm that controls it in the furnace circuit board is essentially a glorified time delay. Letting them thermostat control the staging yields better comfort.
No special setting for an oil furnace. The sequence of operation is the same for all combustion furnaces: natural gas, propane, oil, wood, etc. so no reason for the thermostat to know which one it is turning on.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you for the reply. In my current set up the fan kicks off after oil furnace reaches certain temperature and continues to run for 90 seconds after the burner stops to allow warm air to move. Do gas and oil furnaces work the same way? Thank you
Why would you say that “compressor stage 2 differential can’t be set higher than 1 or else the stage 2 compressor would come on before the first?” Shouldn’t the differential be a higher number so that stage 2 engages only if the temperature starts out very high (hvac starts out from being off) or continues to get higher than just a single degree?
We did not say that. At the 10:15 mark we said to not set stage 2 delta "faster" than 1 degree. We never said to not set it "higher" than 1. We previously said leave stage 1 at 0.5 delta (or maybe 1.0 delta, but never higher). Then for stage 2 we recommended it be set for 2.0 or 3.0 degrees, but never "faster" than 1.0, meaning never lower. We should have said "lower" to make it more obvious what we meant. Lower or higher is going to correspond to faster or slower in terms of the sequence of events during operation.
@@TECTubefilms thanks for clarifying. I thought I was going nuts! My Ecobee refuses to allow the Auto setting for staging control when Reverse staging is on. Is that normal? I find their menus to be buggy as heck.
@@evlnte Yes, that is normal. Reverse Staging implies that the installer wants to override what the stat is going to do automatically, so you can have both. So when you turn Reverse Staging on, you then need to manually configure other stuff such as the stage 2 delta.
Thank you for this video. For the Reverse Staging, when I turn it on the very next option becomes Invalid and it won’t let me leave the settings. So I just put it to 1F (1 Degree Fahrenheit). Is this what should happen? Does this mean that the heat won’t turn on until it hits 1 Degree difference from what I have it set as? I ask this because my furnace has problems sometimes short cycling (overheats basically, most likely choking for cool air) but I’ve noticed Stage 2 works great. Thank you for looking.
Yes, that is how it should work. The invalid is not happening because you turned reverse staging on specifically, but rather because you turned off the automatic configuration and went to manually (in order to access reverse staging). When you select manually, then you must tell it what you want. 1 degree is pretty quick for 2nd stage to come on. We highly recommend that you select 2 degrees for stage 2 delay. (and leave stage 1 at 0.5 degrees).
Your furnace has two different airflow speeds for stage 1 and stage 2. These need to be set at the furnace circuit board and to provide the required airflow that the HVAC company has calculated. Maybe they calculated it incorrectly for stage 1. Or maybe something in your system has changed that has affected the airflow since they set it. Maybe you are using a different type of filter or you shut registers, etc.
It is extremely rare for a furnace to trip out on high limit (overheating) while in 1st stage but be fine in 2nd stage. Once it trips off ion 1st stage it won't turn on 2nd stage. Are you 100% positive that the trip occurs in 1st stage and not during 2nd stage?
Mine forces me to choose a Heat Stage 2 Temp Delta is Reverse Staging is enabled. I set mine at 2. You cannot exit the menu if you have Heat Reverse staging enabled and a number of minutes not set for Stage 2 Temp Delta. The system will state you left the value at 'invalid' and changes cannot be saved until corrected.
@@TECTubefilms So sorry I never responded to this. I am absolutely positive. Makes sense to me. At Stage 1 when the blower is blowing at less speed there is less air movement going in and out. At stage 2 when things ramps up everything gets moving.
@Tec Tube How do you set the Ecobee4 to starts the blower alone humidification? There were instances where, my house temperature was in desired temperature, however humidity was low and so I am wondering whether or not, anyway Ecobee4 can starts the humidifier alone with blower, without furnace fire kicking in? Long story but in short version. I bought Aprilaire 600 humidifier and installed it along with its humidistat model 60 came with it. I ended up removing the humidistat model 60, due to there is 10 degree difference in reading between my former Honeywell wifi thermostat and Aprilaire 60 humidistat, which resulted in humidifier never kicked in, when humidification is needed. In Aprilaire humidistat model 60 has an option to kick start humidification just with blower alone, without furnace fire kicking in and it is called "Blower activation".
I don't have humidifier and was told by support that if you don't have the humidifier and you wanted to do AC Overcool Max, you have to turn on Dehumidify use on AC, I did that and enable it at 56%,, Only purpose to use the smart thermostat is to save $$ otherwise the AC kept running like 12hr a day! $550 electric bill for me this month!
A humidifer adds humidity to the home. AC Overcool Max removes humidity by using your A/C. Did you perhaps mean to say "dehumidifier" instead of "humidifier?"
Are you saying that once you turned on AC Overcool Max and set it for 56%, your electric bill went up? Did you also raise your temperature setpoint when you turned on this feature? You need to do that. With a lower humidity, you should be able to keep the space more comfortable at a higher temperature. With a humidity of 56%, the temp should probably be 74F or so. I keep my house below 50% @ 77F and it is great... and I only have about 1 electric bill per year that even cracks $100.
I am in California, and it's expensive here on electric, like I am paying 90% tier 2 , 10% tier 3....tier 2 is 0.25cent/kilowatt , tier 3 is 0.35/kilowatt. Last month, my battery operated thermostat ran like 12hr a day while setting it at 80-81 and it was in Hallway...hallway is always warmer (plus we cook everything lunch and dinner freshfood, it's one of the reason heating up the house specially hallway faster). So I figured out ecobee4 just installed couple weeks, I let the Ecobee thermostat runs off the remote sensor in one of the bedroom so it doesn't seem to run that often, a good sign. I tried AC Overcool Max and was told by Ecobee support that it only runs if I have to turn on the Dehumidifier use AC in system menu. It actually works that bring the temp little far below the set point like 1 or 2 or 3F depend in AV Overcool max setting. this Ecobee Thermostat works well...I look forward to see my next electric bill how much I might possibly save by using a smart thermostat like this.
Can you send a link to where to buy this thermostat? I need a stat to have the temp dead band like you showed. I can't find the eco bee 4 pro online. If I set my temp to 67 on heating it will turn the heat pump on before the room temp drops to 66. It's always maintaining the 67. If that makes since lol.
ecobee4 is obsolete. It has been upgraded twice since this video was made in 2018 and has another updated version coming this year. You can buy a current ecobee model pretty much everywhere (HVAC contractor, ecobee.com, Amazon, hardware store, your electric utility, etc).
8:39 this entire section involving *compressor reverse staging* is confusing to me. You spend a lot of time explaining just how important it is to have it on, and then at 10:00 or so you reverse course and say to turn it on because it disables stage 2 (even though it looks like it disables stage 1 in the video, and disables nothing on my ecobee). All that to say, should it be disabled or enabled? If it grays out something, wouldn't that mean whatever that is would no longer be applicable so you wouldn't need to adjust it anyway?
Sorry for any confusion. If reverse staging it is on, it allows stage to shut off as you approach setpoint. Reverse staging has no affect on stage 1 at all (other than allowing it more run time because stage 2 shut off). We recommend the use of Reverse Staging for improved dehumidification and comfort.
I have a heat pump with an Aux stage 1 for heating. I have the temp set for 68 degrees at night and scheduled for 72 degrees at 5:30 AM. The compressor may come on for two or more hours before 5:30 and since it's cold outside the temperature does not increase all that much. The Aux heat does not come on until 5:30. Is there a way to stop the heat pump from running for so long before the Aux heat comes on?
There are multiple issues here. If you heat pump is running and the indoor temp is not increasing it means one of two things. 1) there is an issue with the heat pump and it needs to be serviced or 2) you have model of heat pump that cannot handle cold outdoor temps very well
If your Aux heat is a gas, propane, or oil furnace, you need to calculate the economic and thermal balance points and set an appropriate outdoor changeover temperature based on that. However, if your Aux heat is electric resistance then you just calculate the thermal balance point. Generally for cold climate heat pumps that outdoor temp ends up being well below zero so you should never shut off the heat pump and only run electric resistance. You should run both together.
I have a Trane TEM6 air handler that runs the fan automatically for a bit after a cooling or heating call, if I leave the ecobee on auto for dissipation times will that conflict anything the air handler is doing or does the ecm on the air handler override anything from the thermostat?
No problem in this scenario. The two fan timers (ecobee and air handler circuit board) start at the same time. The fan will actually run for whichever is longer. BTW - we are NOT fans of running the fan for cooling dissipation. We prefer that fan to shut off right after the cooling call. If the fan continues running, it blows some of the moisture back into the airstream instead of letting it drain away. This re-introduces that moisture back into the building at a time of year that you probably want to dehumidify.
Hi may I ask is there a setting for certain time for heatpump and gas furnace??? I would like to set heatpump run 7pm-7ambecause electricity 50% 7pm-7am, and use gas furnace 7am-7pm because gas cheaper 7am-7pm??? Thank you
First Thank you for the Video, explained a lot even when I believed I knew a lot about Ecobee. New installation at new home. I have used Ecobee for over 5 years. Now with Ecobee 4. Question My compressor outside is running all of the time even when it has reached the desired temp and the fan has turned off. This did not happen with previous thermostat. I have rechecked the wiring and everything matches up as normal. No extra equipment just normal central air. Does it matter where the red wire goes? I didn't think so but don't know how to fix this problem
If the compressor is running without the outdoor condenser fan, then the stat is not the issue. Both the compressor and condenser fan utilize the same thermostat signal (Y1) to engage so if one is running without the other, the issue is not a thermostat issue.
If the compressor is running without the indoor evaporator fan, then the stat could be the issue. Or it could be wired wrong. In either case, an electrical meter will need to be used to diagnose which component is it at fault. For some reason you are getting a Y1 signal to the outdoor condensing unit, but not a G signal to the indoor air handler. th-cam.com/video/FMevkhVDvuU/w-d-xo.html
@@fixitgeorge If this is a brand new thermostat and it worked before you installed the new stat, but not after, then there is a high probability that it is wired incorrectly.
Oh oh. I'm a homeowner (3 ton) and went ahead and ventured into advance settings, Thresholds and set the difference in "cooling differential" from .5 degrees to 1.5 degrees. I don't know why, but my AC was cycling too much. Working fine now for 1 day. Should I change it back? Is that dangerous? Thanks. Great info.
The reason it "cycles too much" is usually because it is oversized. There could be other reasons such as supply airflow blowing directly on thermostat. But 90%+ of homes have oversized A/C so that is usually to blame. Now, of course, if you system is designed for a 90 degree day but it is only 78 outside, it will have to cycle more. But we assume you mean it is cycling on a hot day.
@@TECTubefilms oh yeah, it's been hot. 100-105 for about a week. Can it hurt to change the cooling differential from .5 to 1.5 ? Thanks for your response.
@@twoweeledsoto6072 If it is cycling when it is cool outside (such as our 78 degree example) that is normal. If it is cycling when it is hot, such as 100+ degrees in your example that likely means the equipment is grossly oversized. Thermostat settings are not the solution for something that egregious. But no, as stated before, that setting will not damage your equipment.
You should set it up to run dual fuel based on outdoor air temp. Calculate the thermal and economic break points to figure out when it is cheaper to run the heat pump or when it is cheaper (or more BTUs needed) to run the gas.
If that causes the heat to kick on too often then either a) the thermostat is in the direct airflow path of one of the diffusers or b) the heating system is grossly overside.
@@TECTubefilms maybe so. Would you recommend using auto staging then instead of changing to manual? I set mine to 1.5 and I kinda like how it doesn’t turn on so frequently
@@bgarcia9788 We always use manual staging because we are control freaks and we really like reverse staging which is only available in manual. Most ecobee users are on auto staging because it is the default.
I have a 3 ton American Standard / Trane heat pump with electric aux. during setup it ask to set minimum outdoor compressor temp or to select disable. It recommended disabling unless my heat pump called for a certain minimum. I have tried googling and can’t find my units specs anywhere. Unit was manufactured in 2014 and from most forums people say modern heat pumps can work to temps below 0° F. Should I disable it, or do you recommend a minimum to set this at? Or is this setting for cooling mode only? Heat Pump: 4TWB3036C1000AA
That minimum outdoor compressor temp is for COOLING mode only. If this is a regular house, set that for 55 degrees. There is a different section on the stat for setting up heat pump changeover points. Every heat pump is tested to run at 47 and 17 degrees outside. Most can run well below 17. Since electric heat is 100% efficient, but the heat pump is 150 to 300% even at cold temps, you likely want to run yours well below 17. But you will need the unit specs (and heat balance point graph) or you will need to talk to your Trane dealer. We don't use that brand here so we are not familair with that model number.
6:34 My Ecobee 4 doesn't show an adjustment for Heat Dissipation Time. I live in the upstairs apartment. One furnace serves the whole building. And each apartment has separate ac systems. Rh & W go to the furnace. Rc, Y, G and C connect to the airhandler for cooling. Ecobee 4 sends a G signal to the AC airhandler for about 30 seconds every time the heat shuts off.
Perhaps you have a newer version of firmware since we filmed the video and that option is now in a different spot. We do not have an ecobee 4 in front of us today to look.
What’s the best setup for ecobee when using an outdoor reset controller on my high efficiency boiler? Or should I use a basic WiFi thermostat so it doesn’t work against the boiler outdoor reset controller.
Not sure what you mean. You can use both an ecobee stat and a boiler OA reset control. These do not work against each other. As it is cooler outside, the boiler will make lower temp water... which is fine because the thermostat does not need any BTUs. Regular thermostats and ecobee Wi-Fi stats work the same way. They both just closer R-W to energize your T-T. Nothing different in that regard.
@@TECTubefilms ok thanks. I wasn’t sure if ecobee was constantly trying to anticipate how long it would have to run to reach the desired temp by a certain time, ie 630am after a 3 degree night setback. Currently I set the house to be at 67 at all times. See how that works. It takes away some ecobee benefits but with cast Iron radiators and hydronic floor heat in the kitchen a steady temp may be best.
@@dlmob Yes, ecobee calculates when to start to reach temperature. If it is connected to an online account, it builds profiles of your home and how long it takes to heat it X degrees at various outdoor temps.
I installed a ecobee tstat with dual fuel set up, when I try to turn on reverse staging for compressor or aux (gas) on the settings and I try to exit settings it gives me a warning and doesn’t let me leave the settings. What could be the reason to that???
This is normal. To use reverse staging you had to select manual staging config instead of auto staging. Scroll down the list and look for one that says invalid to find the configuration choice you did not make a selection for.
Hi. First of all, thank you for the video. I would love some clarification on the Reverse Staging, if possible. You say that you recommend to turn it on, but in the video you leave it off and then calibrate the settings that follow it on the thermostat. I see that when I enable the Reverse Staging, it grays out the Stage 1 Max Run Time. I'm trying to analyze that, but haven't figured it out yet. It seems that if I disable the Reverse Staging, but then configure the settings that follow it, that it will still do Reverse Staging, but at the way I have asked it to. Am I correct? Just trying to make the right setting. Also, would you recommend that I run the fan after the air conditioner where I live here in Los Angeles? My house does feel muggy when nothing is running, and I don't want to make it worse by any means. I was surprised, but my Authorized Carrier Installer, doesn't know how to work with the Ecobee. Only Nest. They've been in business for 65 years. Was a little disappointed in that. Thanks again.
No, that is not correct. If you turn Reverse Staging to OFF, it will not do the reverse staging and and instead will use traditional staging off method.
With the exception of desert climates (Vegas, Phoenix, etc.) we would never run the fan after the cooling call (ecobee's Cool Dissipation Time). It causes the remaining moisture on the coil to be re-absorbed back into the the airstream and delivered back into your house... making your house more humid. Not desired for Los Angeles.
We are also surprised that your Carrier dealer is not familiar with ecobee. Carrier owns part of ecobee. Additionally, ecobee makes a line of thermostats specifically for Carrier called "ecobee Powered by Carrier." And that dealer;'s customers must have a Carrier Infinity or Carrier ecobee thermostat to be eligible for manufacturer rebates on Carrier equipment. If they use a nest thermostat, they are ineligible for that rebate, which in your case with non-Infinity equipment is probably $200-400 (varies by state and equipment model).
We are not familiar with Rudd but we do work with many other brands of furnaces that have "communicating thermostats" and they can easily be wired to work with any 24v stat, such as ecobee. However, there is often a trade-off of features in those cases.
I have an Ecobee lite, it showed it was running the AC but it wasn't giving cold air. Changed to an old thermostat I had and was giving cold air. Any issue or overide thay Ecobee had to cause this?
The way to test the issue would be to use an electrical meter to see if the equipment was receiving the Y1 signal. Then you can determine if the stat was an issue or if the equipment itself was in lockout. If you replace a thermostat... any thermostat... it will reset the equipment lockouts. So it may run for a while but then eventually whatever caused the system to fail will fail again and lock back out.
I am currently using a PRO T855SH thermostat which allows me to set the humidity level. I do not have a dehumidifier just a regular 2 stage HVAC. I am in Florida. I bought the Ecobee Premium and installed it and it seems that i just do not get the same effect, my home seems way warmer at the same temperature settings. I have to keep the temperature at 70 to achieve what i do at 76 with the Pro. Is this something i am not doing right? can the Ecobee function like the Pro with the humidity setting? I would really love your input. I have put the old thermostat back at this time but would have loved to use the Ecobee Premium
You need to enable the feature called "AC Overcool Max" in the installation screens (we recommend setting it to 3F) and then on the mode screens set the dehumidification setpoint (we recommend 54%)
I am so sorry to bother you again but i may have some wiring wrong because my humidity levels are constantly high, i never had this issue so i am worried that i may have wired it wrong. I have a separate thermostat that is connected to my outdoor weather station and it shows my indoor humidity as way lower between 54-60% whereas the Ecobee is always 69-79% which i find concerning so i figured there had to be an issue. Any idea? There is another concern but i will tell you once i know that the wiring is right. I have a two stage heat pump and i have red to Rc white to W1 (WORRIED THIS MAY BE THE PROBLEM) Green to G, Blue to C, Yellow to Y1, Brown to Y2 and Orange to OB, Please could you confirm that i have wired correctly? @@driverteamtampa3096
I live in Az. I have a heat pump. My previous TS had the Y and W wires jumped. I installed Ecobee 3 lite and it stated to ignore this jump. Why was there a jump wired on the initial TS? Also, Ecobee isn't showing Aux setting for Heat. Does that mean my heat pump doesn't have Auxiliary or Emergency heat?
If ecobee does not show aux settings for heat, it was not configured correctly during installation. If it discovers an O/B wire and a W1 wire at startup, it should give you all the heat pump settings related to auxiliary heat.
@@TECTubefilms It recognized the O/B and all the wires from wall. Old TS was "O" only. The O/B setting is energized on cool. However, there was no W wire coming from wall so of course Ecobee doesn't show a W wire. The Ecobee seems to be working fine, we're generating heat. I set the heat pump thresholds at 35 degrees. Believe it or not, we were below 35 the other day and system didn't start. Should I set the threshold lower to say 20 degrees?
Hey man you had Y & W jumped because the thermostat you previously had did not have an internal jumper to turn on the heat pump. The thermostat previously only turned W on which is why the jumper goes from W to Y. This is not abnormal. Its just because your thermostat was an older model.
Yes, ecobee has separate RH and RC so you can control heating and cooling equipment that each have their own 24v transformer. This is frequently used to control a boiler and a cooling system. Having the cooling system that is a mini-split does, however, add an additional wrinkle because it needs to be a system that can be controlled by a 24v wall stat instead of the typical handheld remote.
Just bought the new Premium yesterday and seeing they no longer have the differential option. Why?? Looks like now they have a temperature correction option. So to achieve the differential, make the change here and modify thr temp up 1 to fake the system ? I’m guessing this is the only way to get differential now??
The heat and cool differentials are still there. Just like with ecobee 4 and ecobee 5 models, you only see the differential settings (default is 0.5 deg) if you turn off automatic staging and switch it to manual staging configuration.
The temperature correction has always been there and it is used to calibrate the thermostat reading to match some other temperature gauge that you have. It would not in anyway affect the differential of how far out of setpoint you need to be to engage and disengage heat or cool.
@@TECTubefilms got it, found the differential. Thank you! Now any idea why when I look at the device, when the AC kicks on, it remains a white snowflake? I can only see AC is engaged if I drill down to the Main Menu, or look on my phone (where it will display the blue snowflake).
I have two zones in my house. The main thermostat on the main floor is connected to my Iphone with the App and I can control the settings from my phone. I have an upstairs thermostat for zone 2. I can't seem to get my phone to recognize it so i can control it with my phone. It is connected to my home wifi but my phone won't recognize it. What do I need to do?
Question for you I had a ecobee thermostat installed and now when the air turns off it makes a pretty Big Bang and was told the setting has to be changed something to do with the fan and what controls it either the thermostat or the furnace. Do you know about that ? it does NOT do it with the heat just the ac. Thanks a bunch !!
All a thermostat can do is turn on the indoor fan, turn on the cooling (outdoor fan and compressor), and turn on the heat. Whenever any stat turns on the cooling, it automatically also turns on the indoor fan. There are no settings in the ecobee or any other stat that would make it do anything different than that. Who specifically is telling you that you need to change a thermostat setting? And who specifically installed the ecobee thermostat for you?
In regards to a "bang noise" in cooling but not heating, can you tell us what type of noise it is (duct work expanding? noise outside by the unit?). Also what type of cooling system you have (standard outdoor air conditioner or heat pump, watersource or geothermal heat pump, chilled water fan coil)? And is the heating system separate from the cooling system, such as hydronic radiators or baseboard?
@@TECTubefilms thanks for the reply ! It sounds like duct work but the guy who installed it also did the neighbors down the street and the same thing was happening and he said he changed something on the thermostat to correct it. I believe he said a fan setting. I have a standard outdoor ac and the heating is a standard gas furnace. the house was built 12 years ago. it did not do it with the standard HONEYWELL thermostat that came with the house and it doesn't do it with the heat if that helps ? Thanks again !
@@Charles-nk3ep Perhaps he changed the fan settings at the furnace circuit board to reduce the air volume for the cooling mode? There is nothing in ecobee, Honeywell, or other standard thermostats that controls fan speed or air volume.
Our fan keeps kicking on randomly. It turns on and off repeatedly randomly. We can't figure out what's causing it and made sure everything is on Auto. Not sure if you have any tips how to figure out what's wrong with it
The ecobee 4 and ecobee 5 can control one accessory which can be a humidifer, dehumidifier, dehum sequence of furnace blower, or a ventilation system. The ecobee 3 lite does not have an extra output to control accessories.
@@mykylc So you are missing cool diff and cool dissipation? Weird. Either the latest firmware moved things to a different order or your stat is messed up. We don't have a stat in front of us today to look at it.
You probably have it configured for automatic staging. Scroll up to the top of the installation settings and switch that to manual staging so you can override stuff.
Sir, i have a question and i believe only you will know how to answer it. i have an NTI-GF200 with an ECM motor, for my condenser i have a Ecoer heat pump inverter type system. the only complaint i have is the blower fan does not ramp it sounds like it will do single stage or 2 stage, no modulation. i have an ecobee 5. What do you suspect is the prob
ecobee does not control fan speeds at all. All it can do is request the fan to turn on (G) and the compressor to turn on (Y1). After that, it is up to the air handler to control blower speed and the heat pump to control compressor and condenser speed. We are not really familiar with ecoer brand inverter units, but in general we recommend that standard thermostats (including ecobee) not be used on variable speed inverters. Use a communicating wall control instead so that can take direct control over the compressor speeds and the indoor blower speeds to make sure they always match. A standard 24vac thermostat cannot do that. So in your case, you likely need the ecoer stat posted at www.ecoer.com/touchscreen-thermostat/. Without that stat, you installer likely had to dumb your system down to a 2-stage system because ecobee can only handle 2 stages.
It is also possible that your installer could not use the ecoer thermostat because you do not have an ecoer air handler. It looks like you have an air handler from another manufacturer (NTI). Communicating wall controls are proprietary to the equipment and since you mixed brands of equipment, your control options may only be to revert to a basic thermostat like ecobee.
My Honeywell control board allows me to adjust the length of heat dissipation up to 180 seconds, but there is more heat left in the system according to my heat gun. The ecobee 3 lite allows me to adjust the heat dissipation time but even with it set to have the ecobee control the system, (vs the HVAC) it still only runs 180 seconds regardless of the heat dissipation time set on the ecobee. Is there a way to disable the honeywell dissipation time to allow the ecobee to adjust that time? Thank You
The G terminal of the ecobee would either need to be wired to your equipment or wired to your zoning board and your zoning board allow it to pass the G signal thru to the board.
180 seconds is a long time. We can't imagine there is enough heat left in the supply duct to offset the electrical cost of running the blower an extra minute.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you very much for your replies!!. The hottest the temperature is at the vents is 132 degrees. At the end of 180 seconds, (when blower stops) it is 90 degrees. I figured that at the end of 240 seconds it would be be approximately in the high 70s. and therefore my desire to run it a little longer. Ecobee has a heat dissipation time of up to 420 seconds which is wishful thinking as no system would have heat in the system that long.
@@TECTubefilms The G wire from the Ecobee goes to the G of the control board. I assume you are referring to the control board as the zoning board. The system shuts down as commanded by the HVAC control board even when the Ecobee is set to control the system via the system installation setup selection. ( One can choose the HVAC or Ecobee during system installation to control the system). I assume the new control boards have a bypass setting, switch, or jumper to allow smart thermostats to control their heat dissipation times. Again.. thank you for your reply and i won't let this ruin my life or pursue it further.
Differential? Do you mean when stage 2 of heat or cool comes after stage 1? Yes you can. You first need to turn on "manual" staging instead of "automatic."
Ecobee won't turn my fan on. I tested all the other wires they're working just fine but when I test the fan it won't turn on and I'm not getting any volts.
What terminals are you trying to reading voltage across? If you are going on R & G, then you should read 24vac when there is no call for fan and read 0vac when the stat wants fan. Some folks get confused on that. To alleviate confusion, we often tell the tell the techs to check for continuity on R & G instead of just voltage.
You can also put a jumper at R & G on the furnace and see if the fan runs. And then as a separate test, take the stat off the wall and tie R & G wires together. By doing those two tests, you can determine if the issue is the furnace, the stat, or the wires themselves. Once you know which of the 3 is the issue, you can better troubleshoot.
My ecobee thermostat says it’s 74 but a true stand alone thermometer says it’s 68. I believe the stand alone thermometer so that means the ecobee is wrong imo. How can I calibrate it so it’s reading correctly.
A very common issues is air movement in the wall behind the stat. You may want to get a can of expanding spray foam to use behind the stat to fill the wire hole in your wall. It is an extremely common problem.
If you do decide you want to adjust the ecobee reading, then watch this video at the 11:15 minute mark. With that said, we have never seen one reading incorrectly by more than a degree. So we bet that either your thermometer is inaccurate or, as stated above, something else is affecting the reading (air inside the wall, etc.).
@@TECTubefilms ok thank you. I suppose the way to fix it would be to get one remote sensor and program it to read from that one (placed inside the most frequently used room area). The hole in the wall is quite large and if it’s sensing the air in the wall the temp will be very slow to recognize the temperature changes on the outside of the wall. Seems to me like a design problem with the ecobee wall mount sensor. I’ll have to think outside the box on this one. Do you have an idea where the sensor is located on the wall unit?
@@OldDocSilver This is a common issues with dozens of models of stats, not just ecobee. The best solution is seal the home so you do not have air moving in the walls. Unrelated to thermostats, this can save hundreds of dollars a year in energy. A blower door test is the best way to find the issues, but in the case of air in walls it is often caused by missing or unsealed wall top plates in the attic. Another common issue is the building cavity being used as the return duct instead of actual sheetmetal. Fixing the structure will make the symptoms at the stat go away. If you are not going to fix the home envelope, the next best option would be to solve the symptom at the stat by filling in the area behind the stat with a can of expanding foam sealant. This is an inexpensive fix. The last option would be to try to "fix" the thermostat by recalibrating it or by using a remote sensor.
how do i setup my ecobee to where its not going off when it goes under the threshold of the tempature its suppose to be at going off when it needs to like older ones cause this ecobee thing keeps running every time it goes under and my bill its outrages now
We are not sure what exactly you are asking. Are you asking how you can get ecobee to run the cooling longer even after you have reached the desired cooling setpoint? For example, if you set it to cool down to 74, it is shutting off once it gets that cool but you want it to keep running more until it gets to say 73?
@@TECTubefilms well older thermostats like my old house had one would run until it drops below then it would still for a good couple of hours but mine runs as soon as it goes above I want it to where it will run for a while but then stop and it won't go back for a bit cause my bill is racking up
@@GundaManBatan It would be extremely unusual for a thermostat to run below its setpoint. Most thermostats, including ecobee, can be programmed to wait longer to turn on, but not wait longer to turn off. But in either case, we are still not understanding what you want. Do you want it to run longer cycles so it dehumidifies better? Or do you want it to be off for longer cycles.
@@GundaManBatan BTW - if you have a single stage A/C like most people, then being on and off longer periods doesn't really equate to less energy usage. It just causes a larger temperature swing but it will likely run the same total time. For example, it if needs to run for 6 hours per day on a 90 degree day, it could run for twelve times for 30 minutes on and 30 minutes off or it could run for eight times for 45 minutes on and 45 minutes off.
@@TECTubefilms I want it to basically run for 2 hours in between intervals like 3 to 4 then 7 to 8 and so on and so forth that was it doesn't constantly turn on all the time when it drops below like say for example it's 78 in the but it needs to be 72 but it keeps turning on everytime it goes over that set tempature cause just tried of it going on constantly
Is the thermostat calling for cooling? What voltage are you reading across Y and R at the furnace and Y and C at the condensing unit when the stat calls for cooling?
The number of stages won't affect that decision. If the heating system has its own dissipation time built-in, like most gas furnaces for example, then the one in the ecobee is not needed. In other systems, such as electric resistance heating, it can be very helpful. In some systems, it provides minimal benefit, such as hot water coil or heat pump. The installer of the HVAC system should be able to advise. If you are forced to guess, we would suggest 90 seconds as a starting point.
Controlling fan speed is a function of the equipment more so than the thermostat. The equipment would have to have something for the stat to wire to for fan speed inputs and standard residential furnaces and fan coils do not have that. If you happen to have a 3 speed fan coil that will accept a G, G2, and G3 fan speed signal, then YES ecobee can be used to control fan speed. Those fan coils are typically only common in multi-family buildings with hot/chilled water.
If you are talking about controlling fan speed on communicating variable speed residential furnaces and fan coils, that equipment is all priority. You need to have a communicating wall control from that specific manufacturer to control those fan speeds. You cannot control them with a 24v thermostat like ecobee or Honeywell.
There are a lot of ways. Here are a few: 1) Put the stat in heat/cool/auto and relax the setpoints so it does not actually call for heating or cooling. This is assuming you have your fan set to "on" in your schedule. 2) Press the system button on the stat and tell it you want to run the fan 55 minutes each hour (60 is not an option for some reason) 3) From the portal, simply click the "fan on" button in the bottom left
If we made this video shorter, what content would you cut out specifically? It seems that we can either make a detailed video that explains most of what a tech needs to know or we can make a short 3 minute video of marketing fluff.
@@TECTubefilms its probably fine. Its just annoying when we are in the middle of the job trying to figure out things and have to scroll through 15 mins of video to find our issue
@@billysonlinesurveychannel8247 We hear you. Our attention span is usually 3 minutes! But if we made it shorter we would have to exclude sections and hence you would not find what you wanted at all. LOL
We have 30+ of our own thermostats in our own buildings set to 3° and it works well. When you switch from a standard stat to one with this type of humidity control, you also need to select a setpoint that is higher than your old stats setpoint. For example, if your old stat was set at 72 then now instead you will set it for 74 or 75. On dry days you will be more comfortable at the higher temp. But on humid days, the stat can override that temp using the A/C Overcool dehumidification mode and you will end up back down around 72. In addition to greater comfort, this allows energy savings on the non-humid days.
It depends on WHY it is running non-stop. Is it not running at full capacity due to airflow or refrigerant issues? Is it running a long time because it has been optimized for dehum? Is the outdoor temp higher than the design temp? Is there a breach in the building envelope or duct system? What is the space temp as compared to the setpoint? There are lots of other factors to consider also.
If you think it is an issue with how you set your ecobee up, we might suggest you either call ecobee tech support or you join the ecobee users group on Facebook and post pictures of your graph. facebook.com/groups/EcobeeUsers/
Excellent explanation of the more in-depth installation settings. I found this far more beneficial than the manual as your context helped it all make sense. Thank you!!
This was super helpful to understand the reasoning for each of those threshold options.
Damn I wish I could buy you a beer! I set my cooling dissipation time to zero and all my humidity problems were solved. Thank you!
Finally! People want to pay me in beer for our videos. There is hope for our new social media society yet.
@@ryanhoger1 If we start paying you in beer, do we still need to withhold taxes on your paycheck? Do we just pour a couple ounces out of each can?
Lol...you guys are great👍
Thank you for the first video that actually helped me set my stat correctly! Seriously, thank you
Your videos are HIGHLY appreciated out here Sir. Thank you. This had helped me a LOT!!
Great Video, I just bought this because I wanted the adjustments to have control over my utility bill, my older thermostat did but took a crap. I returned X thermostat because I have an older home, though it is well insulated, it is not great like the newer homes. Thanks for the details I needed to know...
This video saved me a ton of headache. I moved into a new house that has 3 of these bad boys. 2 were set with a 2 degree threshold and 1 was set for a 5 degree. It was driving me crazy lol. Thank you now I can go on with my day.
Great video!
I had only a heater when my Ecobee was installed. Later I had A/C added to my system but ecobee would only give me heat mode.
After seeing this video and selecting “reconfigure” it finally recognized my A/C and gave me both heat and cold.
Thank you!!!
Another way you can address humidity issues is to disable overcool and set your coof diff to 1.5 depending on if occupants tolerate being a little colder than set point to dehumidify (overcool) or a little warmer (1.5 in this example) than set point for a brief period. It might take longer to dehumidify on overcool so occupants are in the space at lower temp than set point longer (might get chilly), but 1.5 offset will make the compressor run longer and dehumidify naturally and the room temp will always be within the diff. Going the diff approach has the advantage that less humid air in summer "feels" cooler so it is more tolerable within the diff range as opposed to making the space colder just to remove more humidity, so perhaps diff method has a better trade-off. It's nice to have the two choices and setting options for different applications.
We have used this method also, but not very often. The main issues we have with it are: 1) it does the extra differential all of the time whereas the overcool on humidity demand method is only engaged as needed, 2) some customers don't like the temperature comfort (or lack of comfort) of the extra drift, and 3) some customers get confused when their stat is set for 73, but it has to say 75 on the screen for the A/C to actually kick on.
Looks like a lot of tweaks added since I installed my ecobee. Very interesting. I’ll have to groom my settings a bit.
Very helpful video for those of us looking for a jump-start. I'm just wondering if you can expand on what a home owner should be shooting for on run times between 2nd and 1st stage heating?
The run time should be dictated by the way the equipment was sized and the current weather. Unless you are willing to buy new smaller HVAC equipment you should not spend much effort thinking about the lack of run hours on 2nd stage. In fact, the less 2nd stage runs the better... especially for cooling dehumidification.
Why would you want the thermostat to control the fan?
Maybe I have been doing it wrong the entire time.
We get that question a lot. In this case, Ryan's ecobee was connected to a commercial system that needed to have G energized on a heat call. Since filming that video 5 years ago, when we sit in on his training classes, he explains in detail how that setting works. If you have a traditional gas furnace, you want the equipment to control fan on that ecobee setting. This allows it to pre-warm the heat exchanger to avoid an initial blast of cold blow. However, if you have other systems such as electric heat or hydronic coils, then something often need to engage the fan so ecobee has to.
Very helpful video! I have a question about furnace stages. We just had to purchase a new unit (96% efficient York 2 stage.) The unit it replaced was also a 2 stage, but it is wired to a Nest with only 1 wire for heating and cooling. Does the furnace handle it's staging automatically, or is this wired incorrectly?
We are not very familiar with the York brand. However, we use a lot of Carrier, Bryant, Heil, Payne, and Day & Night, and all of those furnaces have the the ability to control their own 2nd stage without a W2 wire from the stat. We generally discourage this, though. The algorithm that controls it in the furnace circuit board is essentially a glorified time delay. Letting them thermostat control the staging yields better comfort.
this guy is great !
Heat differential is now missing since the last update. It’s not in its usual spot. Where is it now?
It may be because you have Automatic Staging turned on. Try setting it for Manual Staging and then more config choices should show up.
Great video, thank you. Where do I find setting for oil furnace?
No special setting for an oil furnace. The sequence of operation is the same for all combustion furnaces: natural gas, propane, oil, wood, etc. so no reason for the thermostat to know which one it is turning on.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you for the reply. In my current set up the fan kicks off after oil furnace reaches certain temperature and continues to run for 90 seconds after the burner stops to allow warm air to move. Do gas and oil furnaces work the same way? Thank you
@@Boatsman99 yes
Why would you say that “compressor stage 2 differential can’t be set higher than 1 or else the stage 2 compressor would come on before the first?” Shouldn’t the differential be a higher number so that stage 2 engages only if the temperature starts out very high (hvac starts out from being off) or continues to get higher than just a single degree?
We did not say that. At the 10:15 mark we said to not set stage 2 delta "faster" than 1 degree. We never said to not set it "higher" than 1. We previously said leave stage 1 at 0.5 delta (or maybe 1.0 delta, but never higher). Then for stage 2 we recommended it be set for 2.0 or 3.0 degrees, but never "faster" than 1.0, meaning never lower. We should have said "lower" to make it more obvious what we meant. Lower or higher is going to correspond to faster or slower in terms of the sequence of events during operation.
@@TECTubefilms thanks for clarifying. I thought I was going nuts! My Ecobee refuses to allow the Auto setting for staging control when Reverse staging is on. Is that normal? I find their menus to be buggy as heck.
@@evlnte Yes, that is normal. Reverse Staging implies that the installer wants to override what the stat is going to do automatically, so you can have both. So when you turn Reverse Staging on, you then need to manually configure other stuff such as the stage 2 delta.
Thank you for this video. For the Reverse Staging, when I turn it on the very next option becomes Invalid and it won’t let me leave the settings. So I just put it to 1F (1 Degree Fahrenheit). Is this what should happen? Does this mean that the heat won’t turn on until it hits 1 Degree difference from what I have it set as?
I ask this because my furnace has problems sometimes short cycling (overheats basically, most likely choking for cool air) but I’ve noticed Stage 2 works great.
Thank you for looking.
Yes, that is how it should work. The invalid is not happening because you turned reverse staging on specifically, but rather because you turned off the automatic configuration and went to manually (in order to access reverse staging). When you select manually, then you must tell it what you want.
1 degree is pretty quick for 2nd stage to come on. We highly recommend that you select 2 degrees for stage 2 delay. (and leave stage 1 at 0.5 degrees).
Your furnace has two different airflow speeds for stage 1 and stage 2. These need to be set at the furnace circuit board and to provide the required airflow that the HVAC company has calculated. Maybe they calculated it incorrectly for stage 1. Or maybe something in your system has changed that has affected the airflow since they set it. Maybe you are using a different type of filter or you shut registers, etc.
It is extremely rare for a furnace to trip out on high limit (overheating) while in 1st stage but be fine in 2nd stage. Once it trips off ion 1st stage it won't turn on 2nd stage. Are you 100% positive that the trip occurs in 1st stage and not during 2nd stage?
Mine forces me to choose a Heat Stage 2 Temp Delta is Reverse Staging is enabled. I set mine at 2. You cannot exit the menu if you have Heat Reverse staging enabled and a number of minutes not set for Stage 2 Temp Delta. The system will state you left the value at 'invalid' and changes cannot be saved until corrected.
@@TECTubefilms So sorry I never responded to this. I am absolutely positive. Makes sense to me. At Stage 1 when the blower is blowing at less speed there is less air movement going in and out. At stage 2 when things ramps up everything gets moving.
@Tec Tube
How do you set the Ecobee4 to starts the blower alone humidification?
There were instances where, my house temperature was in desired temperature, however humidity was low and so I am wondering whether or not, anyway Ecobee4 can starts the humidifier alone with blower, without furnace fire kicking in?
Long story but in short version.
I bought Aprilaire 600 humidifier and installed it along with its humidistat model 60 came with it. I ended up removing the humidistat model 60, due to there is 10 degree difference in reading between my former Honeywell wifi thermostat and Aprilaire 60 humidistat, which resulted in humidifier never kicked in, when humidification is needed.
In Aprilaire humidistat model 60 has an option to kick start humidification just with blower alone, without furnace fire kicking in and it is called "Blower activation".
I don't have humidifier and was told by support that if you don't have the humidifier and you wanted to do AC Overcool Max, you have to turn on Dehumidify use on AC, I did that and enable it at 56%,,
Only purpose to use the smart thermostat is to save $$ otherwise the AC kept running like 12hr a day! $550 electric bill for me this month!
A humidifer adds humidity to the home. AC Overcool Max removes humidity by using your A/C. Did you perhaps mean to say "dehumidifier" instead of "humidifier?"
Are you saying that once you turned on AC Overcool Max and set it for 56%, your electric bill went up? Did you also raise your temperature setpoint when you turned on this feature? You need to do that. With a lower humidity, you should be able to keep the space more comfortable at a higher temperature. With a humidity of 56%, the temp should probably be 74F or so. I keep my house below 50% @ 77F and it is great... and I only have about 1 electric bill per year that even cracks $100.
yes !
I am in California, and it's expensive here on electric, like I am paying 90% tier 2 , 10% tier 3....tier 2 is 0.25cent/kilowatt , tier 3 is 0.35/kilowatt. Last month, my battery operated thermostat ran like 12hr a day while setting it at 80-81 and it was in Hallway...hallway is always warmer (plus we cook everything lunch and dinner freshfood, it's one of the reason heating up the house specially hallway faster).
So I figured out ecobee4 just installed couple weeks, I let the Ecobee thermostat runs off the remote sensor in one of the bedroom so it doesn't seem to run that often, a good sign.
I tried AC Overcool Max and was told by Ecobee support that it only runs if I have to turn on the Dehumidifier use AC in system menu. It actually works that bring the temp little far below the set point like 1 or 2 or 3F depend in AV Overcool max setting.
this Ecobee Thermostat works well...I look forward to see my next electric bill how much I might possibly save by using a smart thermostat like this.
Why would you want your oil furnace running for 5minutes after the set point is made.. that's a waste.
Would you recommend doing these manual settings vs the ecobee auto settings?
We do. Primarily because you can use reverse staging.
Can you send a link to where to buy this thermostat? I need a stat to have the temp dead band like you showed. I can't find the eco bee 4 pro online. If I set my temp to 67 on heating it will turn the heat pump on before the room temp drops to 66. It's always maintaining the 67. If that makes since lol.
ecobee4 is obsolete. It has been upgraded twice since this video was made in 2018 and has another updated version coming this year.
You can buy a current ecobee model pretty much everywhere (HVAC contractor, ecobee.com, Amazon, hardware store, your electric utility, etc).
8:39 this entire section involving *compressor reverse staging* is confusing to me. You spend a lot of time explaining just how important it is to have it on, and then at 10:00 or so you reverse course and say to turn it on because it disables stage 2 (even though it looks like it disables stage 1 in the video, and disables nothing on my ecobee).
All that to say, should it be disabled or enabled? If it grays out something, wouldn't that mean whatever that is would no longer be applicable so you wouldn't need to adjust it anyway?
Sorry for any confusion. If reverse staging it is on, it allows stage to shut off as you approach setpoint. Reverse staging has no affect on stage 1 at all (other than allowing it more run time because stage 2 shut off). We recommend the use of Reverse Staging for improved dehumidification and comfort.
Nice video. Thank you
I have a heat pump with an Aux stage 1 for heating. I have the temp set for 68 degrees at night and scheduled for 72 degrees at 5:30 AM. The compressor may come on for two or more hours before 5:30 and since it's cold outside the temperature does not increase all that much. The Aux heat does not come on until 5:30.
Is there a way to stop the heat pump from running for so long before the Aux heat comes on?
There are multiple issues here. If you heat pump is running and the indoor temp is not increasing it means one of two things. 1) there is an issue with the heat pump and it needs to be serviced or 2) you have model of heat pump that cannot handle cold outdoor temps very well
If your Aux heat is a gas, propane, or oil furnace, you need to calculate the economic and thermal balance points and set an appropriate outdoor changeover temperature based on that.
However, if your Aux heat is electric resistance then you just calculate the thermal balance point. Generally for cold climate heat pumps that outdoor temp ends up being well below zero so you should never shut off the heat pump and only run electric resistance. You should run both together.
Also look at your "Compressor to Aux Runtime" setting
I have a Trane TEM6 air handler that runs the fan automatically for a bit after a cooling or heating call, if I leave the ecobee on auto for dissipation times will that conflict anything the air handler is doing or does the ecm on the air handler override anything from the thermostat?
No problem in this scenario. The two fan timers (ecobee and air handler circuit board) start at the same time. The fan will actually run for whichever is longer. BTW - we are NOT fans of running the fan for cooling dissipation. We prefer that fan to shut off right after the cooling call. If the fan continues running, it blows some of the moisture back into the airstream instead of letting it drain away. This re-introduces that moisture back into the building at a time of year that you probably want to dehumidify.
Hi may I ask is there a setting for certain time for heatpump and gas furnace??? I would like to set heatpump run 7pm-7ambecause electricity 50% 7pm-7am, and use gas furnace 7am-7pm because gas cheaper 7am-7pm??? Thank you
There is not an option to schedule it this way in ecobee, nor any of the other stats that we use here at TEC.
@TECTubefilms thank you , wish they come up with that option we save alot money on bills...thank you , you have a wonderful day, ...
First Thank you for the Video, explained a lot even when I believed I knew a lot about Ecobee. New installation at new home. I have used Ecobee for over 5 years. Now with Ecobee 4. Question My compressor outside is running all of the time even when it has reached the desired temp and the fan has turned off. This did not happen with previous thermostat. I have rechecked the wiring and everything matches up as normal. No extra equipment just normal central air. Does it matter where the red wire goes? I didn't think so but don't know how to fix this problem
It always matters where all wires go. Each has a specific job function. th-cam.com/video/KHsXndmHv_M/w-d-xo.html
If the compressor is running without the outdoor condenser fan, then the stat is not the issue. Both the compressor and condenser fan utilize the same thermostat signal (Y1) to engage so if one is running without the other, the issue is not a thermostat issue.
If the compressor is running without the indoor evaporator fan, then the stat could be the issue. Or it could be wired wrong. In either case, an electrical meter will need to be used to diagnose which component is it at fault. For some reason you are getting a Y1 signal to the outdoor condensing unit, but not a G signal to the indoor air handler. th-cam.com/video/FMevkhVDvuU/w-d-xo.html
Sorry the third comment. Compressor running and not Indoor fan.
@@fixitgeorge If this is a brand new thermostat and it worked before you installed the new stat, but not after, then there is a high probability that it is wired incorrectly.
Oh oh. I'm a homeowner (3 ton) and went ahead and ventured into advance settings, Thresholds and set the difference in "cooling differential" from .5 degrees to 1.5 degrees. I don't know why, but my AC was cycling too much. Working fine now for 1 day. Should I change it back? Is that dangerous? Thanks. Great info.
It is not dangerous... it just reduces comfort a little.
The reason it "cycles too much" is usually because it is oversized. There could be other reasons such as supply airflow blowing directly on thermostat. But 90%+ of homes have oversized A/C so that is usually to blame. Now, of course, if you system is designed for a 90 degree day but it is only 78 outside, it will have to cycle more. But we assume you mean it is cycling on a hot day.
@@TECTubefilms oh yeah, it's been hot. 100-105 for about a week. Can it hurt to change the cooling differential from .5 to 1.5 ? Thanks for your response.
@@TECTubefilms Oh heck. I just read this now. 😂 I'm sorry. Thanks again!
@@twoweeledsoto6072 If it is cycling when it is cool outside (such as our 78 degree example) that is normal. If it is cycling when it is hot, such as 100+ degrees in your example that likely means the equipment is grossly oversized. Thermostat settings are not the solution for something that egregious. But no, as stated before, that setting will not damage your equipment.
I'm looking for how to adjust or disable emergency gas heat, it was on my old thermo but not on this one... It's actually why I bought this one.
You should set it up to run dual fuel based on outdoor air temp. Calculate the thermal and economic break points to figure out when it is cheaper to run the heat pump or when it is cheaper (or more BTUs needed) to run the gas.
Isn’t 0.5 degrees heat differential temp a little too low? Wouldn’t that cause the heater to kick on way too often?
If that causes the heat to kick on too often then either a) the thermostat is in the direct airflow path of one of the diffusers or b) the heating system is grossly overside.
@@TECTubefilms maybe so. Would you recommend using auto staging then instead of changing to manual? I set mine to 1.5 and I kinda like how it doesn’t turn on so frequently
@@bgarcia9788 We always use manual staging because we are control freaks and we really like reverse staging which is only available in manual. Most ecobee users are on auto staging because it is the default.
I have a 3 ton American Standard / Trane heat pump with electric aux. during setup it ask to set minimum outdoor compressor temp or to select disable. It recommended disabling unless my heat pump called for a certain minimum. I have tried googling and can’t find my units specs anywhere. Unit was manufactured in 2014 and from most forums people say modern heat pumps can work to temps below 0° F. Should I disable it, or do you recommend a minimum to set this at? Or is this setting for cooling mode only?
Heat Pump: 4TWB3036C1000AA
That minimum outdoor compressor temp is for COOLING mode only. If this is a regular house, set that for 55 degrees. There is a different section on the stat for setting up heat pump changeover points. Every heat pump is tested to run at 47 and 17 degrees outside. Most can run well below 17. Since electric heat is 100% efficient, but the heat pump is 150 to 300% even at cold temps, you likely want to run yours well below 17. But you will need the unit specs (and heat balance point graph) or you will need to talk to your Trane dealer. We don't use that brand here so we are not familair with that model number.
6:34 My Ecobee 4 doesn't show an adjustment for Heat Dissipation Time. I live in the upstairs apartment. One furnace serves the whole building. And each apartment has separate ac systems. Rh & W go to the furnace. Rc, Y, G and C connect to the airhandler for cooling. Ecobee 4 sends a G signal to the AC airhandler for about 30 seconds every time the heat shuts off.
Perhaps you have a newer version of firmware since we filmed the video and that option is now in a different spot. We do not have an ecobee 4 in front of us today to look.
You have to set set your configure staging to manual
@@davidschlemmer4115 That's it! I ignored anything having to do with staging because the equipment is single stage. Thank you!
Great explanation
What’s the best setup for ecobee when using an outdoor reset controller on my high efficiency boiler? Or should I use a basic WiFi thermostat so it doesn’t work against the boiler outdoor reset controller.
Not sure what you mean. You can use both an ecobee stat and a boiler OA reset control. These do not work against each other. As it is cooler outside, the boiler will make lower temp water... which is fine because the thermostat does not need any BTUs. Regular thermostats and ecobee Wi-Fi stats work the same way. They both just closer R-W to energize your T-T. Nothing different in that regard.
@@TECTubefilms ok thanks. I wasn’t sure if ecobee was constantly trying to anticipate how long it would have to run to reach the desired temp by a certain time, ie 630am after a 3 degree night setback.
Currently I set the house to be at 67 at all times. See how that works. It takes away some ecobee benefits but with cast Iron radiators and hydronic floor heat in the kitchen a steady temp may be best.
@@dlmob Radiators do well with setback. Radiant floor... especially if it is high mass such as concrete... does not.
@@dlmob Yes, ecobee calculates when to start to reach temperature. If it is connected to an online account, it builds profiles of your home and how long it takes to heat it X degrees at various outdoor temps.
My mom got ours stuck on calibrating. Any tips?
Pull it off the wall and put back on 10 seconds later to reset the stat.
I installed a ecobee tstat with dual fuel set up, when I try to turn on reverse staging for compressor or aux (gas) on the settings and I try to exit settings it gives me a warning and doesn’t let me leave the settings. What could be the reason to that???
This is normal. To use reverse staging you had to select manual staging config instead of auto staging. Scroll down the list and look for one that says invalid to find the configuration choice you did not make a selection for.
Hi. First of all, thank you for the video. I would love some clarification on the Reverse Staging, if possible. You say that you recommend to turn it on, but in the video you leave it off and then calibrate the settings that follow it on the thermostat. I see that when I enable the Reverse Staging, it grays out the Stage 1 Max Run Time. I'm trying to analyze that, but haven't figured it out yet. It seems that if I disable the Reverse Staging, but then configure the settings that follow it, that it will still do Reverse Staging, but at the way I have asked it to. Am I correct? Just trying to make the right setting. Also, would you recommend that I run the fan after the air conditioner where I live here in Los Angeles? My house does feel muggy when nothing is running, and I don't want to make it worse by any means. I was surprised, but my Authorized Carrier Installer, doesn't know how to work with the Ecobee. Only Nest. They've been in business for 65 years. Was a little disappointed in that. Thanks again.
At the 10:03 minute mark, Ryan mentions why he turned Reverse Staging off in the video.
No, that is not correct. If you turn Reverse Staging to OFF, it will not do the reverse staging and and instead will use traditional staging off method.
With the exception of desert climates (Vegas, Phoenix, etc.) we would never run the fan after the cooling call (ecobee's Cool Dissipation Time). It causes the remaining moisture on the coil to be re-absorbed back into the the airstream and delivered back into your house... making your house more humid. Not desired for Los Angeles.
Correct. Stage 1 Max Run Time is no longer applicable when using Reverse Staging.
We are also surprised that your Carrier dealer is not familiar with ecobee. Carrier owns part of ecobee. Additionally, ecobee makes a line of thermostats specifically for Carrier called "ecobee Powered by Carrier." And that dealer;'s customers must have a Carrier Infinity or Carrier ecobee thermostat to be eligible for manufacturer rebates on Carrier equipment. If they use a nest thermostat, they are ineligible for that rebate, which in your case with non-Infinity equipment is probably $200-400 (varies by state and equipment model).
I was told I could not have a smart thermostat (nest or ecobee) because my furnace (Ruud) and thermostat (Econet) have dedicated wiring. That sucks.
We are not familiar with Rudd but we do work with many other brands of furnaces that have "communicating thermostats" and they can easily be wired to work with any 24v stat, such as ecobee. However, there is often a trade-off of features in those cases.
Hi. My ecobee won't run the fan only setting on my 1 stage furnace. It gives me the option but nothing happens at the furnace. Any reason?
Make sure you have a G wire connected. Then use your multi-meter to make sure the furnace is receiving the G call.
I have an Ecobee lite, it showed it was running the AC but it wasn't giving cold air. Changed to an old thermostat I had and was giving cold air. Any issue or overide thay Ecobee had to cause this?
The way to test the issue would be to use an electrical meter to see if the equipment was receiving the Y1 signal. Then you can determine if the stat was an issue or if the equipment itself was in lockout.
If you replace a thermostat... any thermostat... it will reset the equipment lockouts. So it may run for a while but then eventually whatever caused the system to fail will fail again and lock back out.
@@TECTubefilms thank you! Best wishes from Toronto.
I have an ecobee lite3 and have a 2 stage AC and furnace but it shows up on the ecobee as 1 stage for both. Any ideas why it’s showing that?
Did you wire Y2 and W2?
I am currently using a PRO T855SH thermostat which allows me to set the humidity level. I do not have a dehumidifier just a regular 2 stage HVAC. I am in Florida. I bought the Ecobee Premium and installed it and it seems that i just do not get the same effect, my home seems way warmer at the same temperature settings. I have to keep the temperature at 70 to achieve what i do at 76 with the Pro. Is this something i am not doing right? can the Ecobee function like the Pro with the humidity setting? I would really love your input. I have put the old thermostat back at this time but would have loved to use the Ecobee Premium
You need to enable the feature called "AC Overcool Max" in the installation screens (we recommend setting it to 3F) and then on the mode screens set the dehumidification setpoint (we recommend 54%)
This is detailed in the video at 5:09 mark
Awesome!!! Thanks so much for sharing this information with me, I so appreciate your help and time. 😊
I am so sorry to bother you again but i may have some wiring wrong because my humidity levels are constantly high, i never had this issue so i am worried that i may have wired it wrong. I have a separate thermostat that is connected to my outdoor weather station and it shows my indoor humidity as way lower between 54-60% whereas the Ecobee is always 69-79% which i find concerning so i figured there had to be an issue. Any idea? There is another concern but i will tell you once i know that the wiring is right. I have a two stage heat pump and i have red to Rc white to W1 (WORRIED THIS MAY BE THE PROBLEM) Green to G, Blue to C, Yellow to Y1, Brown to Y2 and Orange to OB, Please could you confirm that i have wired correctly? @@driverteamtampa3096
I bought a house with 2 thermostats (dual zone hvac) , do i need two of this thermostats or would 1 do the work for the dual zone? Thanks
Two. An ecobee stat is the same as a regular stat. It wires up to whatever you old stat was wired to.
I live in Az. I have a heat pump. My previous TS had the Y and W wires jumped. I installed Ecobee 3 lite and it stated to ignore this jump. Why was there a jump wired on the initial TS? Also, Ecobee isn't showing Aux setting for Heat. Does that mean my heat pump doesn't have Auxiliary or Emergency heat?
No idea why whomever installed your original system jumpered Y to W. This is highly abnormal.
If ecobee does not show aux settings for heat, it was not configured correctly during installation. If it discovers an O/B wire and a W1 wire at startup, it should give you all the heat pump settings related to auxiliary heat.
@@TECTubefilms It recognized the O/B and all the wires from wall. Old TS was "O" only. The O/B setting is energized on cool. However, there was no W wire coming from wall so of course Ecobee doesn't show a W wire. The Ecobee seems to be working fine, we're generating heat. I set the heat pump thresholds at 35 degrees. Believe it or not, we were below 35 the other day and system didn't start. Should I set the threshold lower to say 20 degrees?
Hey man you had Y & W jumped because the thermostat you previously had did not have an internal jumper to turn on the heat pump. The thermostat previously only turned W on which is why the jumper goes from W to Y. This is not abnormal. Its just because your thermostat was an older model.
Can u do one with boiler and mini split. Carrier with controllers added to split system
Yes, ecobee has separate RH and RC so you can control heating and cooling equipment that each have their own 24v transformer. This is frequently used to control a boiler and a cooling system. Having the cooling system that is a mini-split does, however, add an additional wrinkle because it needs to be a system that can be controlled by a 24v wall stat instead of the typical handheld remote.
Just bought the new Premium yesterday and seeing they no longer have the differential option. Why?? Looks like now they have a temperature correction option. So to achieve the differential, make the change here and modify thr temp up 1 to fake the system ? I’m guessing this is the only way to get differential now??
The heat and cool differentials are still there. Just like with ecobee 4 and ecobee 5 models, you only see the differential settings (default is 0.5 deg) if you turn off automatic staging and switch it to manual staging configuration.
The temperature correction has always been there and it is used to calibrate the thermostat reading to match some other temperature gauge that you have. It would not in anyway affect the differential of how far out of setpoint you need to be to engage and disengage heat or cool.
@@TECTubefilms got it, found the differential. Thank you! Now any idea why when I look at the device, when the AC kicks on, it remains a white snowflake? I can only see AC is engaged if I drill down to the Main Menu, or look on my phone (where it will display the blue snowflake).
What the heck happened to 4 of 5. Maybe you should include the links at the bottom.
They are all in order on the playlist. Visit th-cam.com/play/PLoR_O4JRNc24VrGR846DgWacOAEw_uJ4C.html
Also if you watch video #3 all the way to the end, the link pops up on the screen around the 15:09 mark to automatically take you to #4.
@@TECTubefilms Thanks, went to your playlist, but I missed it the first time. Thanks for responding
I have two zones in my house. The main thermostat on the main floor is connected to my Iphone with the App and I can control the settings from my phone. I have an upstairs thermostat for zone 2. I can't seem to get my phone to recognize it so i can control it with my phone. It is connected to my home wifi but my phone won't recognize it. What do I need to do?
Once logged into the app for your first stat, you need to "add a device" which in your case would be your second thermostat.
Question for you I had a ecobee thermostat installed and now when the air turns off it makes a pretty Big Bang and was told the setting has to be changed something to do with the fan and what controls it either the thermostat or the furnace. Do you know about that ? it does NOT do it with the heat just the ac.
Thanks a bunch !!
All a thermostat can do is turn on the indoor fan, turn on the cooling (outdoor fan and compressor), and turn on the heat. Whenever any stat turns on the cooling, it automatically also turns on the indoor fan. There are no settings in the ecobee or any other stat that would make it do anything different than that. Who specifically is telling you that you need to change a thermostat setting? And who specifically installed the ecobee thermostat for you?
In regards to a "bang noise" in cooling but not heating, can you tell us what type of noise it is (duct work expanding? noise outside by the unit?). Also what type of cooling system you have (standard outdoor air conditioner or heat pump, watersource or geothermal heat pump, chilled water fan coil)? And is the heating system separate from the cooling system, such as hydronic radiators or baseboard?
@@TECTubefilms thanks for the reply ! It sounds like duct work but the guy who installed it also did the neighbors down the street and the same thing was happening and he said he changed something on the thermostat to correct it. I believe he said a fan setting. I have a standard outdoor ac and the heating is a standard gas furnace. the house was built 12 years ago. it did not do it with the standard HONEYWELL thermostat that came with the house and it doesn't do it with the heat if that helps ?
Thanks again !
@@Charles-nk3ep Perhaps he changed the fan settings at the furnace circuit board to reduce the air volume for the cooling mode? There is nothing in ecobee, Honeywell, or other standard thermostats that controls fan speed or air volume.
@@TECTubefilms is that something you could explain to me how to do or check maybe ?
Our fan keeps kicking on randomly. It turns on and off repeatedly randomly. We can't figure out what's causing it and made sure everything is on Auto. Not sure if you have any tips how to figure out what's wrong with it
Start by looking at the trend graphs of your stat when you login to ecobee website. Visit HomeIQ section
You may also have set the fan to run a minimum of XX minutes per hour
I have the same issue
I have a question about Dehumidifier from Carrier, does it support it?
The ecobee 4 and ecobee 5 can control one accessory which can be a humidifer, dehumidifier, dehum sequence of furnace blower, or a ventilation system. The ecobee 3 lite does not have an extra output to control accessories.
Strange...I don't see "cool differential temp" under installation settings/thresholds on my EcoBee Smart Thermostat Pro.
Did you scroll down? What section do you have right after "Heat Min On Time?"
@@TECTubefilms right below heat minute on time is compressor minute on time - five minute default
@@mykylc So you are missing cool diff and cool dissipation? Weird. Either the latest firmware moved things to a different order or your stat is messed up. We don't have a stat in front of us today to look at it.
@@TECTubefilms I definitely don't see those two things under the threshold settings.
mykylc same have you figured it out?
Mine is set to those settings and the fan is still running constantly.
I don’t see the heating differential (swing) on my ecobee 3 lite unit. What gives?
You probably have it configured for automatic staging. Scroll up to the top of the installation settings and switch that to manual staging so you can override stuff.
Fantastic sir
Sir, i have a question and i believe only you will know how to answer it. i have an NTI-GF200 with an ECM motor, for my condenser i have a Ecoer heat pump inverter type system. the only complaint i have is the blower fan does not ramp it sounds like it will do single stage or 2 stage, no modulation. i have an ecobee 5. What do you suspect is the prob
ecobee does not control fan speeds at all. All it can do is request the fan to turn on (G) and the compressor to turn on (Y1). After that, it is up to the air handler to control blower speed and the heat pump to control compressor and condenser speed. We are not really familiar with ecoer brand inverter units, but in general we recommend that standard thermostats (including ecobee) not be used on variable speed inverters. Use a communicating wall control instead so that can take direct control over the compressor speeds and the indoor blower speeds to make sure they always match. A standard 24vac thermostat cannot do that. So in your case, you likely need the ecoer stat posted at www.ecoer.com/touchscreen-thermostat/. Without that stat, you installer likely had to dumb your system down to a 2-stage system because ecobee can only handle 2 stages.
It is also possible that your installer could not use the ecoer thermostat because you do not have an ecoer air handler. It looks like you have an air handler from another manufacturer (NTI). Communicating wall controls are proprietary to the equipment and since you mixed brands of equipment, your control options may only be to revert to a basic thermostat like ecobee.
@@TECTubefilms thank you sir!!
My Honeywell control board allows me to adjust the length of heat dissipation up to 180 seconds, but there is more heat left in the system according to my heat gun. The ecobee 3 lite allows me to adjust the heat dissipation time but even with it set to have the ecobee control
the system, (vs the HVAC) it still only runs 180 seconds regardless of the heat dissipation time set on the ecobee. Is there a way to disable
the honeywell dissipation time to allow the ecobee to adjust that time? Thank You
The G terminal of the ecobee would either need to be wired to your equipment or wired to your zoning board and your zoning board allow it to pass the G signal thru to the board.
180 seconds is a long time. We can't imagine there is enough heat left in the supply duct to offset the electrical cost of running the blower an extra minute.
@@TECTubefilms Thank you very much for your replies!!. The hottest the temperature is at the vents is 132 degrees. At the end of 180 seconds, (when blower stops) it is 90 degrees. I figured that at the end of 240 seconds it would be be approximately in the high 70s. and therefore my desire to run it a little longer.
Ecobee has a heat dissipation time of up to 420 seconds which is wishful thinking as no system would have heat in the system that long.
@@TECTubefilms The G wire from the Ecobee goes to the G of the control board. I assume you are referring to
the control board as the zoning board. The system shuts down as commanded by the HVAC control board
even when the Ecobee is set to control the system via the system installation setup selection. ( One can choose the
HVAC or Ecobee during system installation to control the system). I assume the new control boards have a bypass
setting, switch, or jumper to allow smart thermostats to control their heat dissipation times. Again.. thank you for
your reply and i won't let this ruin my life or pursue it further.
Thank you!
Bro thnx so much for this
question for you, can I set differential on ecobee 3 lite thermostat, thank you
Differential? Do you mean when stage 2 of heat or cool comes after stage 1? Yes you can. You first need to turn on "manual" staging instead of "automatic."
@@TECTubefilms thank you
Ecobee won't turn my fan on. I tested all the other wires they're working just fine but when I test the fan it won't turn on and I'm not getting any volts.
What terminals are you trying to reading voltage across? If you are going on R & G, then you should read 24vac when there is no call for fan and read 0vac when the stat wants fan. Some folks get confused on that. To alleviate confusion, we often tell the tell the techs to check for continuity on R & G instead of just voltage.
You can also put a jumper at R & G on the furnace and see if the fan runs. And then as a separate test, take the stat off the wall and tie R & G wires together. By doing those two tests, you can determine if the issue is the furnace, the stat, or the wires themselves. Once you know which of the 3 is the issue, you can better troubleshoot.
For those that need help using their electrical meter, we have a video that may help. th-cam.com/video/FMevkhVDvuU/w-d-xo.html
My ecobee thermostat says it’s 74 but a true stand alone thermometer says it’s 68. I believe the stand alone thermometer so that means the ecobee is wrong imo. How can I calibrate it so it’s reading correctly.
A very common issues is air movement in the wall behind the stat. You may want to get a can of expanding spray foam to use behind the stat to fill the wire hole in your wall. It is an extremely common problem.
If you do decide you want to adjust the ecobee reading, then watch this video at the 11:15 minute mark. With that said, we have never seen one reading incorrectly by more than a degree. So we bet that either your thermometer is inaccurate or, as stated above, something else is affecting the reading (air inside the wall, etc.).
@@TECTubefilms ok thank you. I suppose the way to fix it would be to get one remote sensor and program it to read from that one (placed inside the most frequently used room area). The hole in the wall is quite large and if it’s sensing the air in the wall the temp will be very slow to recognize the temperature changes on the outside of the wall. Seems to me like a design problem with the ecobee wall mount sensor.
I’ll have to think outside the box on this one.
Do you have an idea where the sensor is located on the wall unit?
@@OldDocSilver This is a common issues with dozens of models of stats, not just ecobee. The best solution is seal the home so you do not have air moving in the walls. Unrelated to thermostats, this can save hundreds of dollars a year in energy. A blower door test is the best way to find the issues, but in the case of air in walls it is often caused by missing or unsealed wall top plates in the attic. Another common issue is the building cavity being used as the return duct instead of actual sheetmetal. Fixing the structure will make the symptoms at the stat go away.
If you are not going to fix the home envelope, the next best option would be to solve the symptom at the stat by filling in the area behind the stat with a can of expanding foam sealant. This is an inexpensive fix.
The last option would be to try to "fix" the thermostat by recalibrating it or by using a remote sensor.
Why does my ecobee say heat/cooling calibrating disabled and what do I need to do for it to stop saying that?
It's probably frequently rebooting on its own.
how do i setup my ecobee to where its not going off when it goes under the threshold of the tempature its suppose to be at going off when it needs to like older ones cause this ecobee thing keeps running every time it goes under and my bill its outrages now
We are not sure what exactly you are asking. Are you asking how you can get ecobee to run the cooling longer even after you have reached the desired cooling setpoint? For example, if you set it to cool down to 74, it is shutting off once it gets that cool but you want it to keep running more until it gets to say 73?
@@TECTubefilms well older thermostats like my old house had one would run until it drops below then it would still for a good couple of hours but mine runs as soon as it goes above I want it to where it will run for a while but then stop and it won't go back for a bit cause my bill is racking up
@@GundaManBatan It would be extremely unusual for a thermostat to run below its setpoint. Most thermostats, including ecobee, can be programmed to wait longer to turn on, but not wait longer to turn off. But in either case, we are still not understanding what you want. Do you want it to run longer cycles so it dehumidifies better? Or do you want it to be off for longer cycles.
@@GundaManBatan BTW - if you have a single stage A/C like most people, then being on and off longer periods doesn't really equate to less energy usage. It just causes a larger temperature swing but it will likely run the same total time. For example, it if needs to run for 6 hours per day on a 90 degree day, it could run for twelve times for 30 minutes on and 30 minutes off or it could run for eight times for 45 minutes on and 45 minutes off.
@@TECTubefilms I want it to basically run for 2 hours in between intervals like 3 to 4 then 7 to 8 and so on and so forth that was it doesn't constantly turn on all the time when it drops below like say for example it's 78 in the but it needs to be 72 but it keeps turning on everytime it goes over that set tempature cause just tried of it going on constantly
I installed a ecobee be and my compressor not coming on
Is the thermostat calling for cooling? What voltage are you reading across Y and R at the furnace and Y and C at the condensing unit when the stat calls for cooling?
I have a single stage system and was wondering, should heat dissipation be set to auto, or a set number of seconds? Or set it to zero?
The number of stages won't affect that decision. If the heating system has its own dissipation time built-in, like most gas furnaces for example, then the one in the ecobee is not needed. In other systems, such as electric resistance heating, it can be very helpful. In some systems, it provides minimal benefit, such as hot water coil or heat pump. The installer of the HVAC system should be able to advise. If you are forced to guess, we would suggest 90 seconds as a starting point.
So this thing has every other option (90% useless) but doesn't have an option to control fan speed. Good job !!
Controlling fan speed is a function of the equipment more so than the thermostat. The equipment would have to have something for the stat to wire to for fan speed inputs and standard residential furnaces and fan coils do not have that. If you happen to have a 3 speed fan coil that will accept a G, G2, and G3 fan speed signal, then YES ecobee can be used to control fan speed. Those fan coils are typically only common in multi-family buildings with hot/chilled water.
If you are talking about controlling fan speed on communicating variable speed residential furnaces and fan coils, that equipment is all priority. You need to have a communicating wall control from that specific manufacturer to control those fan speeds. You cannot control them with a 24v thermostat like ecobee or Honeywell.
This is a far different menu then ecobee has.
The video you are watching was posted May 2018. There have been many software updates since that time.
How do you turn on just the fan, no cooling or heating?
There are a lot of ways. Here are a few:
1) Put the stat in heat/cool/auto and relax the setpoints so it does not actually call for heating or cooling. This is assuming you have your fan set to "on" in your schedule.
2) Press the system button on the stat and tell it you want to run the fan 55 minutes each hour (60 is not an option for some reason)
3) From the portal, simply click the "fan on" button in the bottom left
I don't have disapation settings on my menu
Is your system heating only and a boiler?
@@TECTubefilms turns out the settings are only available if you have the system set to manual staging vs automatic
@@76TomD Good point. That 6 year old video may have been prior to the menu adding the choice of manual
really.
Why do people make 15 min vidoes like I am not watching all of this
ya its quite annoying
We use them in training classes for HVAC techs
If we made this video shorter, what content would you cut out specifically? It seems that we can either make a detailed video that explains most of what a tech needs to know or we can make a short 3 minute video of marketing fluff.
@@TECTubefilms its probably fine. Its just annoying when we are in the middle of the job trying to figure out things and have to scroll through 15 mins of video to find our issue
@@billysonlinesurveychannel8247 We hear you. Our attention span is usually 3 minutes! But if we made it shorter we would have to exclude sections and hence you would not find what you wanted at all. LOL
3° is too much😮 for humidity overriding
We have 30+ of our own thermostats in our own buildings set to 3° and it works well. When you switch from a standard stat to one with this type of humidity control, you also need to select a setpoint that is higher than your old stats setpoint. For example, if your old stat was set at 72 then now instead you will set it for 74 or 75. On dry days you will be more comfortable at the higher temp. But on humid days, the stat can override that temp using the A/C Overcool dehumidification mode and you will end up back down around 72. In addition to greater comfort, this allows energy savings on the non-humid days.
@@TECTubefilms nice 👍, great job.
if my AC is running nonstop, what can i do to change it? i have the smart recovery disabled.
It depends on WHY it is running non-stop. Is it not running at full capacity due to airflow or refrigerant issues? Is it running a long time because it has been optimized for dehum? Is the outdoor temp higher than the design temp? Is there a breach in the building envelope or duct system? What is the space temp as compared to the setpoint? There are lots of other factors to consider also.
If you think it is an issue with how you set your ecobee up, we might suggest you either call ecobee tech support or you join the ecobee users group on Facebook and post pictures of your graph. facebook.com/groups/EcobeeUsers/