My Hurst shift broke off in my hand when I was shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Might I add that I learned how to drive a manual before an automatic and I've been driving for 20+ years and have never had this happen before! 🤦🏾♀️
Sadly, I didn’t install the shift linkage boot 100%, so it flew off around 45 mph and got ripped off from the driveshaft. That, and my new shifter buzzes/vibrates a good amount. Unless I hold the shift knob or shifter, the whole entire assembly rattles like mad when accelerating past 2k. When I let off the throttle, it rattles still, but just barely. The kit gives you some generic Dynamat sound deadening, but I had to buy extra sound deadening to place in and around the shifter housing area underneath the car. Still vibrates, but way less. I’m also DIY’ing a shift linkage dust cover/boot bc they don’t sell that one dust cover all by itself, sadly…..
They sell a new kit to replace those garbage white Teflon bushings, but this shifter is garbo. I'm trying it and ppl say it works. I have same issues as you. Going mgw or something else if this doesn't fix it
@@g0tsp33dDid you ever upgrade the bushing kit on the billet short shifter? I never upgraded anything, but all I did in place of the rubber dust cover/boot, was run a GM 350 rubber shift boot on top of the shift linkage. The makeshift boot compresses enough and the rubber is thick enough to actually kill most, if not all of the vibrations and buzzing. I didn’t wanna use any of the adhesive sound deadening, so this actually kinda worked out. The only downside to not having the factory rubber dust boot for the shift linkage, is that the pin and clips to the linkage and shifter, are exposed. I check it from time to time, since I don’t really drive the car through mud or anything crazy. It seems fine so far, but I take it apart occasionally, just to clean the pin and clips and add some grease. I do wanna install the MGW short shifter eventually as well, but this seems fine for now.. It requires more force to shift, but I got used to that after the very first day or so. From what I know, smashing on the stock synchronizers with a short shifter like this one (44% reduced throw), probably isn’t the best idea for longevity anyways… lol I did also run the black stick adapter for the factory shift knob, and liked it better than the chrome one with the ball shift knob. The stock shift knob is weighted and retains a discrete factory appearance. I was actually contemplating installing a factory Hurst short shifter (22% reduced throw), but wanted to install the aftermarket billet kit, just to see how much different it would perform/hold up..
It’s nearly impossible to get the dust boot back on correctly. If it gets torn you simply cannot by another one from Chevrolet as there is no part # you must buy a complete shifter.
My Hurst shift broke off in my hand when I was shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Might I add that I learned how to drive a manual before an automatic and I've been driving for 20+ years and have never had this happen before! 🤦🏾♀️
Sadly, I didn’t install the shift linkage boot 100%, so it flew off around 45 mph and got ripped off from the driveshaft.
That, and my new shifter buzzes/vibrates a good amount. Unless I hold the shift knob or shifter, the whole entire assembly rattles like mad when accelerating past 2k. When I let off the throttle, it rattles still, but just barely.
The kit gives you some generic Dynamat sound deadening, but I had to buy extra sound deadening to place in and around the shifter housing area underneath the car. Still vibrates, but way less. I’m also DIY’ing a shift linkage dust cover/boot bc they don’t sell that one dust cover all by itself, sadly…..
They sell a new kit to replace those garbage white Teflon bushings, but this shifter is garbo. I'm trying it and ppl say it works. I have same issues as you. Going mgw or something else if this doesn't fix it
@@g0tsp33dDid you ever upgrade the bushing kit on the billet short shifter? I never upgraded anything, but all I did in place of the rubber dust cover/boot, was run a GM 350 rubber shift boot on top of the shift linkage. The makeshift boot compresses enough and the rubber is thick enough to actually kill most, if not all of the vibrations and buzzing. I didn’t wanna use any of the adhesive sound deadening, so this actually kinda worked out.
The only downside to not having the factory rubber dust boot for the shift linkage, is that the pin and clips to the linkage and shifter, are exposed. I check it from time to time, since I don’t really drive the car through mud or anything crazy. It seems fine so far, but I take it apart occasionally, just to clean the pin and clips and add some grease.
I do wanna install the MGW short shifter eventually as well, but this seems fine for now.. It requires more force to shift, but I got used to that after the very first day or so. From what I know, smashing on the stock synchronizers with a short shifter like this one (44% reduced throw), probably isn’t the best idea for longevity anyways… lol
I did also run the black stick adapter for the factory shift knob, and liked it better than the chrome one with the ball shift knob. The stock shift knob is weighted and retains a discrete factory appearance. I was actually contemplating installing a factory Hurst short shifter (22% reduced throw), but wanted to install the aftermarket billet kit, just to see how much different it would perform/hold up..
@isnowyazn mine is completely fkd lol. It moves so much it's insane. I'm planning on doing it next weekend. Car came with it, otherwise mgw.
It’s nearly impossible to get the dust boot back on correctly. If it gets torn you simply cannot by another one from Chevrolet as there is no part # you must buy a complete shifter.
Or go aftermarket
You should discuss the proper removal of the stick shift springs. These are barely discussed in the instructions or videos.