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Nothing like an old non computer piece of machinery that runs and runs. I bought MF3165 diesel machine for $2300 a couple years ago as a "project". New rear tires, New Loader valve, New steering cylinder. Lots of other junk I had laying around, Forklift seat, Few hoses, Cleaned and seal o-ring fittings , made new bucket pins, repaired broken front axle. Then put a weeks worth of work with it digging a homesite pad and plowed snow. Sometimes one has to love a plan that comes together.
So glad I found the new channel. I’ve missed the work you do.You know we all have those kind of issues with our projects it’s just more fun to watch someone else work through them. Thanks for the content.
That is a Massey Ferguson 202 Industrial tractor with a factory-installed loader and backhoe. They were produced from the late 1950's through the 1960's. They have some overlap with the Massey Ferguson 35 and 135, but the 202 was built for heavier use. The 202 is relatively hard to find on the used market because they are reliable and very strong for their size. I own two of them including one with a backhoe. They are very handy for loading large hay bales and similar loads because the front axle and power steering can handle the load better than anything else in its size class, of that vintage. However, do not do so unless there is an appropriate counterweight on the rear, if you decide to remove the backhoe. These are real unforgiving if they start to tip sideways. Those 202's were equipped with 40 horsepower Continental Z134 gasoline engines, but some had Perkins diesels. They had power steering, and a neutral safety switch on the transmission and the hi/lo gear range to ensure they would not be started in gear. These were the first tractors to have such a safety feature. Make certain our shift boots are in good shape, any cracks let water and dirt into the hydraulic fluid. Those engines use standard updraft carburetors with manual choke, and they also have an engine governor. They have both hand and foot throttles. That machine also has a hydraulic 3 point hitch should you ever choose to detach the backhoe. Note that sometimes there are mysterious hydraulic shutoff valves to allow such backhoe detachment. The backhoe and loader on these machines are relatively oversized, especially the backhoe, so be careful when driving because all that weight on the rear end makes them extremely unstable at higher speeds. If you decide to replace that loader bucket, be aware that there were significant differences in loaders used on these tractors and they are not interchangeable. The Continental Z134 is a good industrial engine but they have been obsolete since about 1972 and it is very difficult to get certain parts like heads, block, cam and crankshafts. If maintained however, they will last many decades so take care of it. They are worth rebuilding even if the block requires piston bore sleeves. Make certain it has functional gauges that measure engine temperature and oil pressure. When engaged in heavy backhoe work the hydraulic fluid can get pretty warm but with the large volume of fluid in the loader frame this is kept manageable. They had shaft-driven RPM/hour meters but if you can even find one, they tend to be expensive. A modern electrical tachometer works just fine. The 202 tended to use Cessna hydraulic pumps and filters, at least on the loaders, in case you have a hard time finding parts. Like most of that vintage, those engines are very susceptible to overheating, so ensure the radiator is fully functional. Many aftermarket replacement radiators will work if needed. The loader was innovative in that the hollow frame served as a hydraulic fluid reservoir. The larger hydraulic oil capacity helped with cooling in hot weather but conversely can be difficult in cold weather, so have a magnetic engine block heater available in the winter. The engine oil pump is a pain to rebuild but it can be done despite the massive heavy oil pan. These use gravity feed gasoline tanks situated over the engine. Not a safe design if there is even a tiny gasoline leak. This is one reason modern tractors built in the last 50 years have fuel tanks below and behind the engine. Those large flat tanks also tended to accumulate a lot of dirt and rust. It would likely save you a lot of problems to remove the tank, clean out the loose crud with a length of chain shook around in the tank, and then flush with appropriate solvent. Then really seal all fuel lines well to prevent leaks. It also helps to use the fuel line shutoff petcock to further reduce such leaks when the machine is parked. These had lousy battery tie downs and trays, and the top post batteries can make contact with the hood and other nearby steel surroundings, with the electrical terminals very close to the fuel tank. Without effective battery tiedowns the battery can bounce up on rough terrain and short out against the hood. The hood on your tractor has no means to hold it up safely, especially when refueling. Think about what would happen if the hood crashed down on you while refueling, causing a spark at the battery. Get some form of reliable hood prop, such as a couple of common gas struts used on SUV liftgates. Use a plastic battery box with a cover like those used on boats, and get covers for the battery terminals. These tractors were shipped with wheels inset as much as possible to reduce costs, but there is no practical reason to have the wheels set so close. It makes the tractor needlessly unstable. The rear wheel hubs can be reversed and the rims offset to provide maximum track width to improve stability. The front wheels can also be reversed to maximize track width. Strongly recommend you do these procedures, which are not difficult. Doing this will also give you the opportunity to flip your rear wheel that has the tire tread facing the wrong direction. The point of the tread chevrons always points forward at the top of the wheel, so that they engage the soil properly. With the treads reversed they will clog with mud and snow. They will also wear out prematurely. Some of those tractors had a single swivel seat to allow normal operation plus swivel rearward to operate the backhoe. Others had a separate backhoe seat. Some tractors had a two-position seat that allowed the operator to be supported while standing. You may want to consider replacing the seat with a modern shock-absorbing seat. That will likely be less expensive than simply getting replica MF seat cushions etc. Last but not least, use your fabrication skills to build a roll cage that is anchored to the rear axle and frame. It may be possible to adapt a salvage ROPS unit from another tractor, but I strongly recommend adding a front hoop and fore/aft crossbars to protect you from heavy objects falling out of your loader bucket, or perhaps the forklift blades or hay spike you are likely to fabricate. There are bolt holes in the rear axle for mounting fenders, but do not rely on them as anchorages for a roll bar. Use large U bolts that surround the axle. This will not only help protect your life in a rear or side rollover, it can also serve as a support for lights and a weather protection roof, even if it is simply a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal. Make certain you make the cage tall enough to allow you go enter and exit the tractor comfortably, despite your far greater than average height. A minimum head clearance over the seat cushion is 42 inches. Attach a lap belt to the tractor and use it. The lap belt not only keeps you safe in emergencies it makes it easier to control the tractor and results in less fatigue. Without the lap belt the roll bar is vastly less effective. With a properly worn lap belt and an effective ROPS, there is an extremely high rate of survival.
Hi. Just a quick correction. Most of the information in this write up is accurate and a good account of the MF 202. Chucke's particular tractor is, if all original, a MF 204. This is how the series went... MF 202: gas Contentiel Z134 with either a normal 3 speed + reverse with a Hi -Lo, or a 3 speed with a Hi -Lo and a manual shuttle (giving you 6 speeds in both forward and reverse). MF 204: is identical to to MF 202 except for the transmission which is the first generation of the MF instant reverse (funk drive) transmission. It is very much ahead of its time using a fluid torque convertor as your clutch and a pedal hydraulically selected forward reverse. MF 203: was powered by the Perkins direct injected AD3-152 and had the same transmission options as the MF 202. MF 205: was powered by the Perkins direct injected AD3-152 and had the same transmission as the MF 204. The other differences were the gas models 202 & 204 had outboard drum brakes and straight axles directly from the differential to the drive hub much like the MF 35 & 135. While the diesel models 203 & 205 had inboard dry disk brakes and an outboard planetary gear set much like 1st generation MF 165.
I’d simply add that when you’re moving battery wires around be extra careful not to drop the negative cable directly on top of the positive battery post…(timestamp 2:47ish…good thing that battery was dead…) Nice to see the progress on that old tractor though!
Tool thats (almost) identical to the one that I use, affiliate link: amzn.to/3oXeJ12 Don't forget some dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, affiliate link: amzn.to/3rX8gFn For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Best wishes!
Im pretty sure she needs a bigger main jet or a smaller one.. we have the exact same engine but just in a different tractor and it runs perfectly smooth and its had no tuning done to the carby at all... maybe ajust the mixture screw or the needle and seat.... or the float hight...
If it's set around with ethanol laced fuel in it that can be your running/stalling problem, even six to ten months of sitting. Best to get non-ethanol fuel as the last fill before parking for a season or two. The 'fuel additives' don't help, none of them.
some say his rear tires are in 2 different directions and 1 is wrong, some old timers did this too. They say they got traction going forwards and going backwards depending on which way they were trying to get unstuck,,,,myself , i just think he put one on wrong and didnt realize it or didnt care!! haha
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here, by following this link: t.me/TractorHoardersGroupChat Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS: The ULTIMATE Welding Slag Hammer, Made In USA: amzn.to/2Z5HbjB 220 Volt Welding Extension Cord: amzn.to/2CAxlP7 Cotton BSX Welding Jacket: amzn.to/2VdGAuZ KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench: amzn.to/35fchvN OTC Slide-Hammer Kit: amzn.to/3p7mq4Q Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last: amzn.to/2VsxTgH SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price: amzn.to/2VegmbE Regular Safety Glasses that I Use: amzn.to/2ATXtEf My favorite rust removal tool: amzn.to/3nxAfbK Makita Metal Cutting Chopsaw: amzn.to/3A6kVu1 Yes, these are affiliate links! Thank you.
Hey I've got one of those Shuttle trans and mine has a 3.3 4cyl Perkins diesel but it's reliable The pedals work like this, Right side is throttle One is forward the other is reverse and the middle is just for revs The left is brakes and left pedal is left brake and right pedal is right brake
JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum!
Learn About The Program Here: th-cam.com/video/LbxxZ4l9LnU/w-d-xo.html
Join The Project Support Group Here: www.patreon.com/OWFA/membership
Nothing like an old non computer piece of machinery that runs and runs.
I bought MF3165 diesel machine for $2300 a couple years ago as a "project".
New rear tires, New Loader valve, New steering cylinder. Lots of other junk I had laying around, Forklift seat, Few hoses, Cleaned and seal o-ring fittings , made new bucket pins, repaired broken front axle.
Then put a weeks worth of work with it digging a homesite pad and plowed snow.
Sometimes one has to love a plan that comes together.
Good to see you and Steve still friends and working together . Makes for a good video .
That 2500 dollar tractor has some nice looking tires.
So glad I found the new channel. I’ve missed the work you do.You know we all have those kind of issues with our projects it’s just more fun to watch someone else work through them. Thanks for the content.
This is one of my favorite old machines. It's such a neat old backhoe. It's so cool seeing it live again.
Carbureted vehicles are very sensitive. If you say you hate carburetors they don't forget and proceed to give you grief forever.
That is a Massey Ferguson 202 Industrial tractor with a factory-installed loader and backhoe. They were produced from the late 1950's through the 1960's. They have some overlap with the Massey Ferguson 35 and 135, but the 202 was built for heavier use. The 202 is relatively hard to find on the used market because they are reliable and very strong for their size. I own two of them including one with a backhoe. They are very handy for loading large hay bales and similar loads because the front axle and power steering can handle the load better than anything else in its size class, of that vintage. However, do not do so unless there is an appropriate counterweight on the rear, if you decide to remove the backhoe. These are real unforgiving if they start to tip sideways.
Those 202's were equipped with 40 horsepower Continental Z134 gasoline engines, but some had Perkins diesels. They had power steering, and a neutral safety switch on the transmission and the hi/lo gear range to ensure they would not be started in gear. These were the first tractors to have such a safety feature. Make certain our shift boots are in good shape, any cracks let water and dirt into the hydraulic fluid.
Those engines use standard updraft carburetors with manual choke, and they also have an engine governor. They have both hand and foot throttles. That machine also has a hydraulic 3 point hitch should you ever choose to detach the backhoe. Note that sometimes there are mysterious hydraulic shutoff valves to allow such backhoe detachment. The backhoe and loader on these machines are relatively oversized, especially the backhoe, so be careful when driving because all that weight on the rear end makes them extremely unstable at higher speeds. If you decide to replace that loader bucket, be aware that there were significant differences in loaders used on these tractors and they are not interchangeable.
The Continental Z134 is a good industrial engine but they have been obsolete since about 1972 and it is very difficult to get certain parts like heads, block, cam and crankshafts. If maintained however, they will last many decades so take care of it. They are worth rebuilding even if the block requires piston bore sleeves. Make certain it has functional gauges that measure engine temperature and oil pressure. When engaged in heavy backhoe work the hydraulic fluid can get pretty warm but with the large volume of fluid in the loader frame this is kept manageable. They had shaft-driven RPM/hour meters but if you can even find one, they tend to be expensive. A modern electrical tachometer works just fine. The 202 tended to use Cessna hydraulic pumps and filters, at least on the loaders, in case you have a hard time finding parts.
Like most of that vintage, those engines are very susceptible to overheating, so ensure the radiator is fully functional. Many aftermarket replacement radiators will work if needed. The loader was innovative in that the hollow frame served as a hydraulic fluid reservoir. The larger hydraulic oil capacity helped with cooling in hot weather but conversely can be difficult in cold weather, so have a magnetic engine block heater available in the winter. The engine oil pump is a pain to rebuild but it can be done despite the massive heavy oil pan.
These use gravity feed gasoline tanks situated over the engine. Not a safe design if there is even a tiny gasoline leak. This is one reason modern tractors built in the last 50 years have fuel tanks below and behind the engine. Those large flat tanks also tended to accumulate a lot of dirt and rust. It would likely save you a lot of problems to remove the tank, clean out the loose crud with a length of chain shook around in the tank, and then flush with appropriate solvent. Then really seal all fuel lines well to prevent leaks. It also helps to use the fuel line shutoff petcock to further reduce such leaks when the machine is parked.
These had lousy battery tie downs and trays, and the top post batteries can make contact with the hood and other nearby steel surroundings, with the electrical terminals very close to the fuel tank. Without effective battery tiedowns the battery can bounce up on rough terrain and short out against the hood. The hood on your tractor has no means to hold it up safely, especially when refueling. Think about what would happen if the hood crashed down on you while refueling, causing a spark at the battery. Get some form of reliable hood prop, such as a couple of common gas struts used on SUV liftgates. Use a plastic battery box with a cover like those used on boats, and get covers for the battery terminals.
These tractors were shipped with wheels inset as much as possible to reduce costs, but there is no practical reason to have the wheels set so close. It makes the tractor needlessly unstable. The rear wheel hubs can be reversed and the rims offset to provide maximum track width to improve stability. The front wheels can also be reversed to maximize track width. Strongly recommend you do these procedures, which are not difficult. Doing this will also give you the opportunity to flip your rear wheel that has the tire tread facing the wrong direction. The point of the tread chevrons always points forward at the top of the wheel, so that they engage the soil properly. With the treads reversed they will clog with mud and snow. They will also wear out prematurely.
Some of those tractors had a single swivel seat to allow normal operation plus swivel rearward to operate the backhoe. Others had a separate backhoe seat. Some tractors had a two-position seat that allowed the operator to be supported while standing. You may want to consider replacing the seat with a modern shock-absorbing seat. That will likely be less expensive than simply getting replica MF seat cushions etc.
Last but not least, use your fabrication skills to build a roll cage that is anchored to the rear axle and frame. It may be possible to adapt a salvage ROPS unit from another tractor, but I strongly recommend adding a front hoop and fore/aft crossbars to protect you from heavy objects falling out of your loader bucket, or perhaps the forklift blades or hay spike you are likely to fabricate. There are bolt holes in the rear axle for mounting fenders, but do not rely on them as anchorages for a roll bar. Use large U bolts that surround the axle. This will not only help protect your life in a rear or side rollover, it can also serve as a support for lights and a weather protection roof, even if it is simply a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal. Make certain you make the cage tall enough to allow you go enter and exit the tractor comfortably, despite your far greater than average height. A minimum head clearance over the seat cushion is 42 inches. Attach a lap belt to the tractor and use it. The lap belt not only keeps you safe in emergencies it makes it easier to control the tractor and results in less fatigue. Without the lap belt the roll bar is vastly less effective. With a properly worn lap belt and an effective ROPS, there is an extremely high rate of survival.
I didnt read all that but i skimmed through it and heck, you wrote a dang book report on this old girl!! LOL Good job
Hi. Just a quick correction. Most of the information in this write up is accurate and a good account of the MF 202. Chucke's particular tractor is, if all original, a MF 204. This is how the series went...
MF 202: gas Contentiel Z134 with either a normal 3 speed + reverse with a Hi -Lo, or a 3 speed with a Hi -Lo and a manual shuttle (giving you 6 speeds in both forward and reverse).
MF 204: is identical to to MF 202 except for the transmission which is the first generation of the MF instant reverse (funk drive) transmission. It is very much ahead of its time using a fluid torque convertor as your clutch and a pedal hydraulically selected forward reverse.
MF 203: was powered by the Perkins direct injected AD3-152 and had the same transmission options as the MF 202.
MF 205: was powered by the Perkins direct injected AD3-152 and had the same transmission as the MF 204.
The other differences were the gas models 202 & 204 had outboard drum brakes and straight axles directly from the differential to the drive hub much like the MF 35 & 135. While the diesel models 203 & 205 had inboard dry disk brakes and an outboard planetary gear set much like 1st generation MF 165.
I’d simply add that when you’re moving battery wires around be extra careful not to drop the negative cable directly on top of the positive battery post…(timestamp 2:47ish…good thing that battery was dead…) Nice to see the progress on that old tractor though!
Glad to find you again
My greatest discovery is that you also watch Andrew camarata. 2 of my favorite channels
Tool thats (almost) identical to the one that I use, affiliate link:
amzn.to/3oXeJ12
Don't forget some dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, affiliate link:
amzn.to/3rX8gFn
For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Best wishes!
I saw an old forklift set up like that. Didn't have enough nerve to try and run it. Just looking was plenty. Good old Massey. GBWYall.
I'm pretty sure that rabbit is the reason your tractors have so many issues. The rabbit must be The Killer Rabbit of Caerbannog.
Then the only answer is The Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch.
YES!🤣
@@mandolinman2006 AND YEEEESSSS!!!! 🤣
Loving the retro of things remembered..cheers..
Well finally I got to see it. Yay
Yes backhoe update woo!!
On this episode of tractor hoarders
The backhoe!! I missed seeing that thing.
You don't see too many backhoes that also have 3pt hitches on them. Nice machine.
Yes
I was waiting for this video!!
Mechanic Steve, run for your life.
Yeah I remember this video quite well! Tractor needs a diesel swap done to it.
Hiya Lance
Maybe you weld a new front and rear bucket for it and that could be the next welding project.
Lucky needs to be trained at the Andrew Camarata canine division
Im pretty sure she needs a bigger main jet or a smaller one.. we have the exact same engine but just in a different tractor and it runs perfectly smooth and its had no tuning done to the carby at all... maybe ajust the mixture screw or the needle and seat.... or the float hight...
If it's set around with ethanol laced fuel in it that can be your running/stalling problem, even six to ten months of sitting. Best to get non-ethanol fuel as the last fill before parking for a season or two. The 'fuel additives' don't help, none of them.
Those are also a reamer to clean the inside of the terminal
Gawd Mechanic Steve!! If you don't care about that elbow, I'll take it 🤣
Looks like you tried to cook it off the end of your arm!!
Why is the left rear tire on backwards?
What happened to the Ford Fordson?
U should go do a video with Andrew cammaratta iswell ! Go see his castle he welded
You paid less for than than u did for the removable one I got with my new tractor... so you win even if it's a project ...
Do you still have it ?
Always wondered what happened to that old turd! Hey, also, did you know you have a tire on backwards? Lol
He has one backwards so he has better traction in reverse too! LOL maybe not but some old timers did it for that reason they claim
What's the story behind the left rear tire?
some say his rear tires are in 2 different directions and 1 is wrong, some old timers did this too. They say they got traction going forwards and going backwards depending on which way they were trying to get unstuck,,,,myself , i just think he put one on wrong and didnt realize it or didnt care!! haha
💯👍
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here, by following this link: t.me/TractorHoardersGroupChat
Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true
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KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench:
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OTC Slide-Hammer Kit:
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Yes, these are affiliate links! Thank you.
Lucky almost became unlucky......
Sell it ASAP
hey chukie how is married life?
First
Hey I've got one of those
Shuttle trans and mine has a 3.3 4cyl Perkins diesel but it's reliable
The pedals work like this,
Right side is throttle
One is forward the other is reverse and the middle is just for revs
The left is brakes and left pedal is left brake and right pedal is right brake
Why is the left rear tire on backwards??