Gday mate,I do a fair amount of work in Gr 5 titanium and have had my fair share of problems with it. A few things to remember is that it work hardens. Keep it cool, feed constantly or withdraw(don't rub) sharp drill bit! as soon as there blunt forget it. use coolant if you can with drilling and turning, Coated carbide works well for turning. Regards Max
I have drilled lots of titanium in the aerospace industry. Secret is cobalt split point drills and LOTS of coolant. Titanium is VERY dense and builds up heat almost instantly. Heat is the enemy as it breaks down the cutting edge.Your speed is about right just need flood coolant. Most of my experience was with large pieces and large bores. We used thru coolant and a lot of "pecking" in the nc programs. It really just takes time and experimentation till you get your set up right.
Instead of drilling to a large diameter.. grind an internal boring bar from a broken Solid Carbide endmill, drill a small hole, and bore it out.. works like a charm..
get a "JACOBS SUPER BALL BEARING CHUCK" and COBALT DRILLS WITH flats @ 120 degrees TO LOCATE ON DRILL CHUCK JAWS . ..SHARP-SHARP drills... !! ,,titanium must be CUT--NOT RUBBED. .lots of OIL and SLOW SPEED with higher than "NORMAL" feed rate ..!! ..try SOLID CARBIDE drill bits if you are in a high number of parts to be made ..
You need a super positive cutting angle with grade 5. Best for tool life is 20 degrees but for speed of feed is 30 degrees. It's poss easy to machine. Nice video.
+BS in The Shop it's also helpful if you use the same drill tip geometry with your drill as what's on your center drill tip. The more bearing it has the better it will start into the hole.
I'm wondering if 135 deg would of performed better, I was also thinking that bits with flats on the shank would of helped, then again the bit spinning in the chuck probably saved them from breaking. Not easy stuff to drill by any stretch of the imagination. Thanks for the useful lessons
that's right, I'm always learning however there has to be a better way i guess carbide drills, so far I've got half a dozen dulled bits, a Jacobs chuck that's spun out, all this just to drill one inch. Would have been cheaper to find a set of carbide drills. thanks for letting me vent, and thanks for watching PS: you have a great channel, maybe one day I'll go CNC
I've dulled my fair share of drills, that's for sure. It's almost always from running at too high a speed as well. When possible, I like to use flood coolant (or even just a spray bottle) to help keep the temperature down there. It also looked like the chips might have been jamming up a bit but this is the sort of thing that shows up different on the video than when you are standing in front of the machine. I'll be going back to catch up on the build to date. This is really good content, sir. PS - thanks for checking out my channel too!
Drilling grade 5 in one step drillbit 16,5 mil , is about 5/8 inch. cooling with emulsion going great for 1/4 inch. lathe stops by over powering at about 100 rpm. problem with grade 5 is building up heat in stock and not in the chips. And same as stainless keep cutting every stop hardens the top layer, start cutting again need quick drill or tool action to start cutting again.. you need a good chuck to hold your drillbits. slipping drillbit stops cutting and gives problems. good luck.
I think, you should use center drill and after that only one drill (for hole which you need ) but properly sharpen, when you have already hole and you go bigger and bigger hole, drill that comes next "bites" titanium pretty hard and because of that drill slips in your chuck, and lot of coolant is important to cool cutting tip of drill, I had similar problems like you, and I thought that making smaller diameter hole will help after I go with next bigger size.
I don't have any experience with Titanium, but it seems that in the previous video, the heat and pressure, were "work hardening ". Can anyone with knowledge advise? Perhaps that is why the slower RPMs made things better. Great video thanks Brian. Paul
Glad the drilling has been improved - must remember the lower RPMs answer. Had wondered about that. Certainly seemed way big of an improvement - daresay tip temp was kept a smidge cooler and 115 and 190 seemed perhaps some of the sweet speeds. Keeping a chuck hold on the bit seemed an almost predictable problem with the tool tip pressures involved... amazing the helix takes all that torque. I winced every time the bit slipped!:) I still think carbide would be the answer if available but also a really good cutting edge on the HSS bits..
yeah Chris looks like RPM is an answer, carbide would be nice, but until I go back to work it is "use what ya got" around here., those helix bits are Guhring bits I got in a lot off ebay. I dare say drilling is not near as fun when the bit come out the same color it went in..no more sparkles..
Calculating from the speeds and diameters a good Estimate of surfacespeed would be somewhere in the region of 4-6m/min ( i'm Used to Metric) Most of the time i use 4fluted endmils and spiral mill the holes.. Today i did 3mm deep holes in titanium watchcases, 1.98mm diameter with an 1.5mm SolidCarbide endmill.. worked like a charm. I do however have some parts to make in the future, that i have to drill.. I will test that at 4-5 5m/min
Hi Brian ! You should try one of these HSS-E grade drills - here in Denmark they are expensive to buy but you can get them for 10-30% of the price on ebay in Germany - unfortunately you have a shipment to pay ;-)) - but by trying you'll get an idea of what's working ! I ONLY buy these drill grades no matter what the use is.
Are you selling your services? Because I need to have a few end/front caps machined for a maglight d tube in a bunch of different thread patterns in stainless steel. Also need some spacers. I'm trying to find the best price for such and right now it looks like that's at 26 dollars(might be more, not sure whether that was for a simple end cap or a threaded front cap or for both) per cap from az penn girl plus shipping.
You need to use my oil you can keep that material up and burn the drill up. Also deep old young lady should make a parabolic growing on your drill to give it more chip evacuation
low speed, high pressure seems to be key - a couple of the vids (see allied titanium's th-cam.com/video/5ktFcBSOhlo/w-d-xo.html) also recommend using olive oil as the lube ...
Glad to see that you were successful. By the time I saw your previous attempt others had already provided you the information you required. It is great to see that many people are still willing to help others out like they used back in the day, which the tools or platforms like TH-cam, Facebook, etc. make it easier to do, which is a big part of human nature. Unfortunately, there are those who have shut themselves off due to all of the violence, false flags, media manipulation, etc. that exists today in a so-called "civilized" society. Anyway, have you seen Carbon TV yet? You could do a series on boar or wild hog hunting. www.carbontv.com/
you speak very wisely my friend, unfortunately the left nor the right are listening. I don't see either side coming together anytime soon. I'll have a look at carbon tv. thanks for watching
Well even though both sides are together i.e. the right wing and the left wing are a part of the same bird which operates from behind the scenes so many are unaware of its existence. The right & left will never come together without a rise in consciousness since they were designed as a part of the drama whose purpose is to keep people polarized and create/maintain division just like the ongoing false flags and psyops are doing racially. Even Ron nPaul who brought a lot of facts before an unaware public was only carrying out a role to create a sense of hope for those in the truther movement, the patriot camp etc. I realized this after speaking to his campaign manager and the research of Clint Richardson who created the Corporation Nation documentary series and is an RBN show host confirmed this. To learn more about how we have been and are being manipulated by the bird behind the scenes, which is the monolithic conspiracy that JFK spoke of in his speech to the American Newspaper Publishers, read the book Tragedy & Hope by Carroll Quigley which is a monumental task or you could read Tragedy & Hope 101 by Joe Plummer. Both are available online for free. Tragedy & Hope - www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/Tragedy_and_Hope.pdf Tragedy & Hope 101 - joeplummer.com/tragedy-and-hope-made-easy.html#_ftnref6 You may find Quigley's book The Anglo-American Establishment rather eye opening too. www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/The_Anglo-American_Establishment.pdf
u doet het helemaal niet goed , je wil alleen tijd rekken om de show vol te krijgen ,, jong ik draai eierdopjes compleet met voetjes en een dun halsje van enkele milimeters . de wand is 1,5 milimeter en er kan een groot kippen ei in en past perfect .. hoe zouden ze anders al die titanium stukken draaien denkt ? . boren met een gatje erin en spoelen .. bud de show must goan .
Gday mate,I do a fair amount of work in Gr 5 titanium and have had my fair share of problems with it. A few things to remember is that it work hardens. Keep it cool, feed constantly or withdraw(don't rub) sharp drill bit! as soon as there blunt forget it. use coolant if you can with drilling and turning, Coated carbide works well for turning. Regards Max
I have drilled lots of titanium in the aerospace industry. Secret is cobalt split point drills and LOTS of coolant. Titanium is VERY dense and builds up heat almost instantly. Heat is the enemy as it breaks down the cutting edge.Your speed is about right just need flood coolant. Most of my experience was with large pieces and large bores. We used thru coolant and a lot of "pecking" in the nc programs. It really just takes time and experimentation till you get your set up right.
Johnny Holland The only thing is Titanium will not absorb the heat as fast as the tool will in this case the drill bit.
Johnny Holland how big do you bore?
That looked like it worked much better. Thank you for sharing. Also, Zeke looks like a real good friend.
Instead of drilling to a large diameter.. grind an internal boring bar from a broken Solid Carbide endmill, drill a small hole, and bore it out.. works like a charm..
That did improve a lot. Glad to see you have it whipped. Keep on keeping on.
I would suggest you tighten each drill chuck jaw to put even pressure on three jaws. Keep up the fine videos learning a lot.
Mike
Yep, that does help sometimes.
Awesome man! speed is definitely the key. Can't wait to see the end cap threading and tapping. Zeke was squirreling his treat for later.
I'm working on it.
stubby cobalt 135 degree screw machine drills are amazing. forget carbide. look on ebay i bought 6x 3/8" and 12x 1/4" for 11 or 12 bucks. made in USA
get a "JACOBS SUPER BALL BEARING CHUCK" and COBALT DRILLS WITH flats @ 120 degrees TO LOCATE ON DRILL CHUCK JAWS . ..SHARP-SHARP drills... !! ,,titanium must be CUT--NOT RUBBED. .lots of OIL and SLOW SPEED with higher than "NORMAL" feed rate ..!! ..try SOLID CARBIDE drill bits if you are in a high number of parts to be made ..
Awesome, appreciate you walking us through your steps. Titanium is a real booger to drill, and bit get expensive. Hopefully slowing it down will help.
You need a super positive cutting angle with grade 5. Best for tool life is 20 degrees but for speed of feed is 30 degrees. It's poss easy to machine. Nice video.
Brother, you need a ball bearing jacobs chuck. Btw, when spotting with center drills, it's generally best to only use the very tip.
thanks for the tip TMB I'll have to keep a look out for a super chuck. like your channel thanks for sharing
+BS in The Shop it's also helpful if you use the same drill tip geometry with your drill as what's on your center drill tip. The more bearing it has the better it will start into the hole.
I'm wondering if 135 deg would of performed better, I was also thinking that bits with flats on the shank would of helped, then again the bit spinning in the chuck probably saved them from breaking. Not easy stuff to drill by any stretch of the imagination.
Thanks for the useful lessons
Might also help to make sure the chuck jaws and drill bit shank are oil/grease free?
I'm pretty confidant that drill any other material those bits would not have slipped, I'm quite amazed none snapped off.. thanks for watching
get a proper self gripping chuck, i suppose. always pains me to see the poor drill bits getting messed up when the chuck isn't up to the task...
Giday mate. What drill bits are you using. I'm having trouble using tungsten tip drill bits
Progress was made, that's the important part. Thanks for sharing your findings on this!
Best wishes,
Tom Z
that's right, I'm always learning however there has to be a better way i guess carbide drills, so far I've got half a dozen dulled bits, a Jacobs chuck that's spun out, all this just to drill one inch. Would have been cheaper to find a set of carbide drills. thanks for letting me vent, and thanks for watching
PS: you have a great channel, maybe one day I'll go CNC
I've dulled my fair share of drills, that's for sure. It's almost always from running at too high a speed as well. When possible, I like to use flood coolant (or even just a spray bottle) to help keep the temperature down there. It also looked like the chips might have been jamming up a bit but this is the sort of thing that shows up different on the video than when you are standing in front of the machine.
I'll be going back to catch up on the build to date. This is really good content, sir.
PS - thanks for checking out my channel too!
Drilling grade 5 in one step drillbit 16,5 mil , is about 5/8 inch. cooling with emulsion going great for 1/4 inch. lathe stops by over powering at about 100 rpm. problem with grade 5 is building up heat in stock and not in the chips. And same as stainless keep cutting every stop hardens the top layer, start cutting again need quick drill or tool action to start cutting again.. you need a good chuck to hold your drillbits. slipping drillbit stops cutting and gives problems. good luck.
I think, you should use center drill and after that only one drill (for hole which you need ) but properly sharpen, when you have already hole and you go bigger and bigger hole, drill that comes next "bites" titanium pretty hard and because of that drill slips in your chuck, and lot of coolant is important to cool cutting tip of drill, I had similar problems like you, and I thought that making smaller diameter hole will help after I go with next bigger size.
I don't have any experience with Titanium, but it seems that in the previous video, the heat and pressure, were "work hardening ". Can anyone with knowledge advise? Perhaps that is why the slower RPMs made things better. Great video thanks Brian.
Paul
work hardening seems to be really bad with different grades of stainless
Well Paul, my new rule of thumb is if the drill bit comes out cherry red I'm going too fast.. lol thanks for watching
this is grade 5 titanium, I think it is born work harden..lol thanks for watching
And I thought stainless was tuff, looks like some hard stuff. I bet a milling cutter held in a collet in the tailstock would work well
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin indeed my friend machining titanium one of the toughest material ever !!
Common SFM charts for various materials can save a lot of guessing, re-inventing the wheel: www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drills-speeds.htm
Great Chart! Thank You.
That did seem better than the last video.
Still that stuff is tough.
Zeke had a mouth full. Haha.
Mike
Can you do a video doing this with a drill press? The harbor freight 130$ one seems to be the best.
Nice video!!! But you should have went deeper with your spot drill and peck drilling, there's a formula for deep holes.
So , whats the recomended surfacre speed? in inches. ?
Glad the drilling has been improved - must remember the lower RPMs answer. Had wondered about that.
Certainly seemed way big of an improvement - daresay tip temp was kept a smidge cooler and 115 and 190 seemed perhaps some of the sweet speeds. Keeping a chuck hold on the bit seemed an almost predictable problem with the tool tip pressures involved... amazing the helix takes all that torque. I winced every time the bit slipped!:)
I still think carbide would be the answer if available but also a really good cutting edge on the HSS bits..
yeah Chris looks like RPM is an answer, carbide would be nice, but until I go back to work it is "use what ya got" around here., those helix bits are Guhring bits I got in a lot off ebay. I dare say drilling is not near as fun when the bit come out the same color it went in..no more sparkles..
run what ya brung
Calculating from the speeds and diameters a good Estimate of surfacespeed would be somewhere in the region of 4-6m/min ( i'm Used to Metric)
Most of the time i use 4fluted endmils and spiral mill the holes..
Today i did 3mm deep holes in titanium watchcases, 1.98mm diameter with an 1.5mm SolidCarbide endmill.. worked like a charm.
I do however have some parts to make in the future, that i have to drill.. I will test that at 4-5
5m/min
what was the brand of final drill bit
Hi Brian !
You should try one of these HSS-E grade drills - here in Denmark they are expensive to buy but you can get them for 10-30% of the price on ebay in Germany - unfortunately you have a shipment to pay ;-)) - but by trying you'll get an idea of what's working !
I ONLY buy these drill grades no matter what the use is.
thanks Keld, I'm gonna go look on ebay for some HSS-E bits
Slow speed high feed is the secret if it is a secret.
why a 3 jaw chuck?
Tighten up the drill in each of the chuck holes for best results 🙄
Use a solid Cobalt or solid Carbide drill when boring titanium.
Are you selling your services? Because I need to have a few end/front caps machined for a maglight d tube in a bunch of different thread patterns in stainless steel.
Also need some spacers. I'm trying to find the best price for such and right now it looks like that's at 26 dollars(might be more, not sure whether that was for a simple end cap or a threaded front cap or for both) per cap from az penn girl plus shipping.
no sorry, I just do my own form 1's
Alexander - we can make SS caps - as per your drawings. Send us you rely on titanengineerrs@gmail.com
you need a jacobs super chuck
ned a new set of drill chuck jaws. the slippage was very large
yes sir the jaws were spun out, Allready replaced
Or perhaps tighten after the first time the bit spins not the 5th. lol
You need to use my oil you can keep that material up and burn the drill up. Also deep old young lady should make a parabolic growing on your drill to give it more chip evacuation
Use colant! And a proper chuck!
Good old Dog!!
try peck drilling no more than 1.5 times the diameter of your drill bit
low speed, high pressure seems to be key - a couple of the vids (see allied titanium's th-cam.com/video/5ktFcBSOhlo/w-d-xo.html) also recommend using olive oil as the lube ...
OOUUUUCCCHHHH!!!
It's RPM not RPMs. You wouldn't say revolutions per minutes. You say revolutions per minute, RPM
Glad to see that you were successful. By the time I saw your previous attempt others had already provided you the information you required. It is great to see that many people are still willing to help others out like they used back in the day, which the tools or platforms like TH-cam, Facebook, etc. make it easier to do, which is a big part of human nature. Unfortunately, there are those who have shut themselves off due to all of the violence, false flags, media manipulation, etc. that exists today in a so-called "civilized" society. Anyway, have you seen Carbon TV yet? You could do a series on boar or wild hog hunting.
www.carbontv.com/
you speak very wisely my friend, unfortunately the left nor the right are listening. I don't see either side coming together anytime soon. I'll have a look at carbon tv. thanks for watching
Well even though both sides are together i.e. the right wing and the left wing are a part of the same bird which operates from behind the scenes so many are unaware of its existence. The right & left will never come together without a rise in consciousness since they were designed as a part of the drama whose purpose is to keep people polarized and create/maintain division just like the ongoing false flags and psyops are doing racially. Even Ron nPaul who brought a lot of facts before an unaware public was only carrying out a role to create a sense of hope for those in the truther movement, the patriot camp etc. I realized this after speaking to his campaign manager and the research of Clint Richardson who created the Corporation Nation documentary series and is an RBN show host confirmed this. To learn more about how we have been and are being manipulated by the bird behind the scenes, which is the monolithic conspiracy that JFK spoke of in his speech to the American Newspaper Publishers, read the book Tragedy & Hope by Carroll Quigley which is a monumental task or you could read Tragedy & Hope 101 by Joe Plummer. Both are available online for free.
Tragedy & Hope - www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/Tragedy_and_Hope.pdf
Tragedy & Hope 101 - joeplummer.com/tragedy-and-hope-made-easy.html#_ftnref6
You may find Quigley's book The Anglo-American Establishment rather eye opening too. www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/The_Anglo-American_Establishment.pdf
meu filho vc tem que aprender a trabalhar
Baffle strike 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Stop saying RPMs. There is no S on the end. It's not "revolutions per minutes" it's "revolutions per minute".
ok
@@bstanga I apologize if I sounded like an ass, it wasn't my intention. Happy new year and thanks for sharing your videos.
@@niwachien lol no prob
use grade 2 everything else is glorified aluminum😋
if only it drilled like glorified aluminum..lol thanks for watching
+BS in The Shop no doubt , I was feeling sorry for you , watching you use that drill doctor ruined bit.😄
my wife got to hear me cussing at the screen
u doet het helemaal niet goed , je wil alleen tijd rekken om de show vol te krijgen ,, jong ik draai eierdopjes compleet met voetjes en een dun halsje van enkele milimeters . de wand is 1,5 milimeter en er kan een groot kippen ei in en past perfect .. hoe zouden ze anders al die titanium stukken draaien denkt ? . boren met een gatje erin en spoelen .. bud de show must goan .
Machinist Handbook or Mfgs web site will have proper sfm.Keep it cool..