Just to help others get this important advice I thought I'd repeat a tip commented by 'pipedoc fpv'. Don't charge your battery immediately after a ride! Wait at least an hour for it to cool down first. Giving it that break will increase battery life. Another tip I've seen on another site relates to the commented idea here of typically charging to just 75 or 80%. In the tip I saw it advised to do that but to charge to 100% every three or four charges. Apparently the occasional full charge further helps extend battery life by giving the individual cells that make up the battery a better opportunity to balance their charges more equally. (In normal use the cells can get out of balance with each cell having slightly different charges and that over time degrades the battery performance).
@@leeroyjenkins422 That advice was in regards to lithium ion batteries. Since I wrote that I've seen others stating the same thing and one acknowledging it but saying he personally disregards that advice. He said 'life is too short' to be fussing over such things, not caring if he reduces the overall life of the battery pack by a few charge cycles. He might have the right idea.
How do I program it to only charge to 80%? Or to any other value for that matter. My EV has an app that makes that easy so no problem there. Not sure how to do it on Lectric.
@@nogrey Limiting the charge typically can't be done automatically. Instead you need to occasionally check it's state of charge while charging (by looking at the bars on the display). When it reaches the state of charge you want simply take it off the charger.
I have 2500 miles on my original XP. Battery is still going strong with no signs of breaking down. I ride in all weather conditions. The bike has seen 100+degrees and months of Zero degrees. I have easily hit the 800 cycles mark. I am looking for an aftermarket 20Amp battery for range.
Also important for LI-ON cells to not deplete under 20%. Use the 80/20 rule. Charge no more than 80%, and don't deplete over 20%, and over time you'll have much more happier cells.
@@timlist4173 because its a dumb charger, there is no smart tech in it. You need a smart charger, and most hobby chargers are $200+ dollars and you have to get the right plugs or make your own, its a DIY project.
they should offer a better charger even if you have to purchase seperately i mean gimme a break i would buy that charger then buy a damn other seat or second battery.
Too much trouble. I’ll have to buy another battery, if that’s what happens. I plan to own another anyway. I just want to make sure they’ll work out before I drop another $1000 on a couple more batteries.
There seems to be much advice on charging and discharging lithium batteries. Mostly seems like a personal opinion. As an old engineer, I like to see the physics and data behind any recommendation. Meanwhile, I will keep the battery fully charged using the proper charger and avoid deep discharge as much as possible. The best advice I have seen is from Battle Born, which builds RV Lithium batteries. Also, the purity of the components used for lithium batteries is the most important and is reflected in the price.
I treat them how I treat my phone's battery. With respect, but not with kid gloves. I charge to 100% because I regularly use it, but usually not discharged below half. But even then, I don't worry too much.
most of it is very outdated. modern chemistries and battery management systems have overcome many of these misconceptions. Battleborn is very overpriced, you can achieve so much more building raw cell packs at a fraction of the cost and at a far more efficient voltage. My lifepo4 16s battery setup of 13.5 kwh would cost 6 times as much and weigh 3 times as much done with battleborns.
there are a couple of US companies that test and rebuild your E-bike battery pack with new cells and whatever else it needs,you can find them online. you have to ship your battery to them without knowing how much it's going to cost,because they don't know the condition of the cells or BMS until they actually test it. I think they do have ballpark numbers on their site. I ended up buying a new battery on Amazon.
Thanks for the tips! My XP 3.0 just arrived a few days back. I'm happy with the bike but any extra knowledge is valuable to me since this is my first ebike experience. I love the bike! So I appreciate the tips! Thank you
Whatever you do, have your shop install the tannus tire / tube liner. The shop usually adds the slime to the tubes free of charge. Nobody is Talking about repairing flats on these bikes. Sit and stare at the rear wheel. Ask yourself if you can repair the tube out on the road. Add in 90° heat. My cargo bike was delivered on Friday. Monday the tannus were installed. Of course you will hear someone say, I’ve done 2,500 miles with never a flat. Then there will be someone that says, my first week and I received a flat. The tannus are considered insurance. Have fun on your new bike.
Just rode mine for the first time today and it said I had 50% battery after just 6 miles I figured I’d prolly need to cycle it a few times. But the voltage knowledge is a great way to tell
I also use usually only PAS2 ((Aipas A2 Elite almost identical to Lectric XP3.0 step-thru e-bike) throwout my daily 8 mi ride, and frequently when flat cement surface pedal without el. assist, also no assist while coasting some downhills. I can go 3-5 days before the voltage display shows down to just above 50V battery charge left. We, e-bike riders learned from each other sharing experience. Lectric, its cousin, Aipas, and most of the other brands keep quite how to prolonged the life of the most expensive e-bike part, the battery. Purposely the e-bike brands are not disclosing all the good knowledge how to ride we the users share in order to save ourself maintenance cost, and prolong the life of our e-bikes battery.
All good info, thanks! I’d like to add if anyone out there is noticing their batteries won’t charge to 54.6v exactly it may be the screen, not the battery or charger. Both our bikes only charge to 53.6 but I checked at the battery terminals and it was 54.6 there. One person in a group I’m in was showing his screen at 55v even. I’m in warranty so I’ll prob call Lectric about mine. Another thing I’d add, and this just comes from several years experience with RC lipo batteries, is to wait at least an hour or two after riding for the cells to cool before charging as it shortens the life. This may not apply to li-ion but I’m thinking it prob does. Anyway thanks again!
Chris mentioned that Lectric suggests to charge to 75%, but to your point about RC lipos, that's also the correct storage voltage. If you aren't going to be riding your bike for a while, it's best not to keep the battery fully charged or too discharged to drastically extend the life of the battery. It's also a good idea to store them in a temperature controlled place that's not too hot or too cold, and also in a secure place where they can't fall from high up or be punctured/crushed to reduce the risk of a fire. A friend of mine lost his house because one of his drone batteries dropped from his desk and burst into flames (yes, burst into a very big chemical flame), and that battery was MUCH smaller than these are. Be safe, be smart, receive years of worry free use.
Hey guys it's the screen that's reading the voltage wrong I called electric and they told me that the screen is reading a voltage wrong they said it's not a big problem as long as you get in the same range that you would be getting so if you just call electric they will tell you the same thing it's the screen that's reading the voltage wrong I got a new screen from them because I kept getting that e010 error code so they sent me a new screen the new screen shows 53 I think it's four or six when I re-plug up the old screen it says 54.6 so it's the screen not the battery the screen
54.6 Volts at the battery terminals is exactly where you want the “peak" charge to reach. Ignore the That’s 4.2 Volts per Cell as those 48 Volt packs have 13 cells in series. 4.2x13 = 54.6Volts. If the controller display is off a volt or like 53.6 Volts or so at peak full charge it’s not a big deal at all.
This vid makes me want to tape over the bar graph on the display and just use the voltage readout because I gravitate to to bars left. But there is probably more useful info on the top of the screen that I can’t remember right now what it is. Thanks for the info.
My friend didn’t even get a month out of his before it stopped turning on without being plugged in to the wall. He called and they sold him a new battery for hundreds of dollars. I ignored the “No Tear Off” sticker (LOL!) on the battery and found a fuse inside the flimsiest fuse holder I’d ever seen, but the 35A fuse was not blown. Turns out, the fuse holder itself is a
@@refresh77 The original owner died with only 17 miles on it and he bought it from the dude’s daughter. I know since I’m the one who responded to the Facebook ad and took him there. ;) Anyway, he’s not the original owner and I don’t think they warranty the battery anyway. :(
@@rayman6253 Not exactly. High voltages are prone to arcing, like a static shock, which can also create a channel of ionized air to conduct electricity causing burns and melt. A fuse is supposed to burn when the amps exceed the rating, which clearly didn’t happen. The fuse holder melted because there was a bad connection incapable of handling the amps required. The high voltage allowed it to arc into or across the fuse, pitting the contacts and burning out the fuse holder. They used an automotive fuse which is intended for 6-24v, not 48v. This is why it arced without blowing the fuse. This is why switches and fuses have voltage ratings independent of their amperage ratings.
@@teleguy5699 The ironic part is that they pretend this is an American made product. Their website is all about their American inventors/founders but in reality this is just a Chinese ebike.
Yeah what's your last comment proves they need to make these out of lithium-iron phosphate. Lithium iron phosphate batteries can be declinished to 0% and fully recharged to 100% every single time and get an average of 3,500 recharges before the battery starts to degrade to an 80% capacity level
Watt hours is the energy or gas in the tank. If you are comparing similar voltage batteries then Amp hours is a good comparison. Some bikes are only 36V while 52V is also becoming more common. Using the voltage at rest is a pretty good estimate of “fuel gage” level but its pretty close to empty below 3V/cell or 39V. You should not discharge to this level hence the 43V recommendation of this video. If you discharge the battery hard (I.e. use mostly full throttle or assist 5) then both the range and the life will be reduced. As the voltage goes down your top speed or amount of assist will also be noticeably less. I'm seeing the battery greatly diminished after a couple of years.
OK, so I have this video pulled up and a notepad open so that I can address each point. Starting with the voltage of a fully charged battery. According to this video my display should show 54.6v when fully charged. I have never seen that voltage. The highest mine ever gets is 54.3v and that is on a brand new battery using the stock charger. On the low side you say 43v is the base, but I have gotten my battery down to 41.4v on a ride and still had power. Granted not much, but I still had it. The energy bar. When your battery starts to fall below 48v you will see that the energy bar will start decreasing. So, if your voltage is at 48.1 volts (without pedaling... known as the idle voltage) you will show full bars. Once your idle voltage falls below 48v that is when that bar starts to lose blocks. Cycles of the battery vary widely depending on the amount of riding that a person does. Someone who commutes 15 miles twice a day will be charging their battery more than someone who rides 3-4 times a week and goes less than 10 miles on each ride. Finally something I can agree with. The more amp hours the more distance you can get... depending on several factors. As for what Lectric recommends they hardly know much about how their bikes work. Most of the time turning to the various Facebook Lectric sites is the best way to learn anything. I have a Lectric XP 1.0 that I use as my daily commuter, and as such I have experimented with various PAS settings, cruise, and here is what I have been able to determine. PAS 2 is the best level to be in for all riding. Seriously. My morning commute is 15 miles with in increase in elevation of 340ft. Using PAS and cruise control I can get the entire way to work on surface streets, and at the end my battery is around 47.4 volts. On my return trip 85% of my trip is on a paved public bike trail and obviously I am going down in elevation by 340ft. Today I used a combination of PAS 1, 2, and 3 in various areas of my ride, and when I got home my battery was at 48.6 volts. I know that if I did my ride in PAS 1 the entire way that my voltage would probably not drop below 50, and I could probably travel the mythical 45 miles that Lectric claims. I vary rarely use PAS 4 or 5 as they literally suck your battery dry. One point that I would like to make is watching the current. This is better when it comes to conserving battery life. In fact it was someone on one of the Facebook groups that pointed it out. Keeping your current below ten extends your ride. I actually try to keep my current below 5, and it has made all the difference when it comes to distance. In PAS 1 from a dead stand still your current will jump up to 8-9, but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 1-3. In PAS 2 from a dead stand still your current will jump up to 12-13, but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 2-4. In PAS 3 this is where it gets a bit tricky. From a dead stand still your current will jump up to 19 (which is the max), but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 3-4. In PAS 4 and 5 it jumps straight to 19 and you really have to be pedaling to get it down below 10, and this is why they take up so much of your battery life. Another trick is when going down hill do not pedal. Coast and save battery.
There are a couple of other posts to this video saying the bike voltage display is off. When they put a separate volt meter to the battery, they got expected voltage.
I just added the 20amp battery that Sunny Whitehurst has to my Lectric Xp 2.0 step thru. I was only getting maybe 20 miles on the 9.6 battery no more range anxiety.
Thanks man, I thought my battery was bad, turns out the readout sucks. Also important for LI-ON cells to not deplete under 20%. Use the 80/20 rule. Charge no more than 80%, and don't deplete over 20%, and over time you'll have much more happier cells.
@@bcflyer99 Get a charger that does. Check with Amazon or Walmart. Anyway, who says that it’s bad for batteries to be fully charged? Light turns green just unplug. Most charges stops charging at 100% automatically even if it’s still plugged in.
@@alvaroq2024 Unlike lead acid batteries, lithium chemistry cells hate full charge: Every time cell voltage goes above "golden middle" it starts cell degrading chemical reaction and obviously the higher you push the voltage the faster the reaction. (super bonus damage from high temperature, which accelerates all chemical reactions) Actually already charging cell full puts lots of stress on Lithium cell. Propably all big brand eBike motor makers have battery management calibrated to stop charging at 80% full voltage.
This isn't being properly explained; he is using a 13S (13 cells in series) lithium ion battery bank. Voltage for a battery is listed as the median voltage of each cell (3.7V for this chemistry) multiplied by the number of cells in series (13S). This is a 48.1V battery. Each cell may not go below 3.3V (42.9V whole battery), this varies depending on the specific cells used, or above 4.2V (54.6V whole battery). If you are using a 14S battery (51.8V, often rounded to 52V) or are using a different chemistry battery like lithium iron phosphate then these numbers will be drastically different. For a large battery, like the ones found on e-bikes, applying too much voltage during charging (like charging his battery at 58.8V) or allowing the battery to discharge below it's limit will destroy the battery and may cause it to burst into flames. Make sure you don't mess this up
We bought two Lectric XPs. If yours arrives and works out of the box count yourself lucky. If it does not you'll spend a few hours underneath a brand new bike following emailed trouble shooting guides. If you fix your brand new bike you're lucky again because it's a high hurdle to get Lectric to get a new, working bike sent to you for the good money you've already paid. Things happen, we all understand that. The true measure of a company is how well it puts things on track, and makes a customer happy when things do go wrong. Lectric e-Bikes has a ways to go on this count. Be advised.
@@d7895482After the original misstep by Lectric all has been fine. If I was doing over again I would have bought two of the same bike for interchangeability of parts. The ones we bought are a bit heavy.
also, the closer you come to emptying your battery, the more stress you put on it. it's good to run these down to around 25% and then charge fully. kinda the opposite of what you were saying here. it is true however that charging from 80-100% takes more time than charging than the same 20% at lower ranges. Anyway, try to keep your batter above 20% and it is 100% okay to charge it fully even tho that may take slighty longer.
I don't know if you seen but lectric just came out with a new long range battery. Hopefully you'll have a review of it but I'll probably have it before then. Keep up the great work!!!
Nice video! Great analogy and explanation with the battery as the “gas tank”. You memorize those volt numbers fast when you are out riding and have range anxiety.
My 2.0 battery was made in 2020. It started to fail yesterday. So, you won't get 7 years. Read the sticker on the battery. The info is different than Lectric's recommendations.
IIRC,that battery case style is CH-006 or something similar. my Ancheer city cruiser folding e-bike uses the same 48V 10.6 AH battery. Be aware that different batteries may have the key lock,but not the electrical OFF switch,that's an option on the battery. also,there's two different case lengths,410mm and 430mm. mine uses the 430mm length.
im upset at lectric. i thought the bms was suposed to take into account leaving extra charge automatically even though meter shows as empty so batteries dont drop below chargeable threshold. well mine didnt even last a year before battery started dying off earlier and earlier till it died off at 3 miles. that bike is not the easiest to pedal without power at all. wish i would have known what you just explained from day one about the voltage cutoff. thanks for your great video.
No offense mate but that not lectrics fault. You are using a battery that’s pretty expensive and you should educate yourself. This is pretty basic info on batteries. Keep batteries between 20-80% full charge once every few months. This is basic info for anything with a battery your phone laptop now your bike… take care of that battery they will last a long time.
One weird problem I just had on my brand new e-bike (a GoTrax F2 identical to the Lectric) is that one morning is wouldn't power up. After inspection, i found that one of the battery female contact had the rectangular isolation around it damaged which prevent a proper contact. The bike hinge was still closing ok. So I push it back in and that fix it. It seems that the corresponding male blade didn't insert in the connector correctly. Not sure which one was the problem. I made sure that the blade was perfectly straight. I am extremely careful with the battery handling. I can't see how I could have damaged it. Now every time I close the hinge, I check that the blades insert properly in the corresponding contacts. It may be a good idea to check those contacts frequently, especially if you remove the battery often.
@@ChrisCrossed That's the only conclusion that I have too. I am surprised that it work fine for a week. The good thing is that they agree to send me a new battery due to another issue I had with it. It was loosing a quarter of its charge in a few minutes of use after a full charge. That way I will get rid of this defect at the same time.
@@ChrisCrossed I think I may have found the problem. From looking at it, you have to lock the battery with the key after inserting it BEFORE closing the hinge. If you close it while it is not completely in, there may be a slight contacts misalignment that can damage them Anyway, I was closing it before fully insert it, assuming it will push it fully in position. Now I know what to do to be more secured.
Thanks. I was curious of full on my expedition. I had only hit them to 50.v before heading out for 25 miles. Back at 47v. With using pas 3 with some throttle out of traffic lights. Also unlocked. Was hitting over 30 at some points. I could out pedal in pas 3 if I wanted and really not much coast she slows down quick. Where the contral pad lies it's real easy to place your hand an not knowingly drop your pas lol. Otherwise I'm pretty happy. I'm in limbo waiting on the rest of items to ship too. Should mention I'm rolling the large delivery bag on the back atm.
@@ChrisCrossed ughhh I have mixed emotions on the accessories. Bad assery yes. But a week after I ordered everything they had their father's day sale would of saved almost $200 and now items are back ordered till August (large panniers) or shipping in July. Luckily I should have the upgraded headlight this Tuesday and perhaps the front rack by next weekend. Was told running the large delivery bag with the large panniers may be tight but apparently doable. No baskets here just the seat pads with R-boards and all delivery bags. I have two extra batteries. What also erks me sir. Is say we went 4a to charge might shorten these batteries in the long span. So I went 2a all around. Wouldn't mind rolling solar along the panniers.$$$
@@ChrisCrossed from what lectric told me the batteries for the expedition are not designed for fast chargers. Asked them before going after market on a 2nd charger. Now I'm off to find the ideal tire pressure. Their pump kicked off at 2.5 bar front & rear. I didn't switch it to psi. Sy.
My son uses his bike for a commuter for school and work, he needs to charge it to 100% every day. That’s a bummer that they recommend not charging it all the way to 54 V consistently
As long as its being used so much thats fine. You want to charge it to 100% before riding. Just if sitting for over say 3 days ideally 75% charge is best meaning its best not to store at 100% for longer periods than 2-3 days..its in lectric bike instructions..
I am concerned about these batteries not being UL certified. Lectric says they do pass "Lectric eBikes' batteries pass the ISO 4210 and UN 38.3 standards for safety" Can someone tell me if this is equivalent to UL certification.
Got a display cover that has volt numbers on left side 54 down to 42 and % numbers on the right side from 100% to 0....from etsy for Lectric ebikes. Once the warranty runs out on my ebike I will be adding a second battery just in front on the rear wheel area sitting low.....probably an extra 10Ah battery.
Can you put a long range battery in a XP 3.0 if you didn’t originally buy the model that’s called “long range battery XP 3.0”? I’m buying my sister’s bike and I don’t think that is the version she bought, but I’d like to get a back up battery and wondered if I could buy the long range battery.
People saying it doesn't matter if you charge to 100% and that it's more important not to discharge past a certain point don't know much. Those people shouldn't buy an EV car. They would be very unhappy having to replace a 15k battery after repeatedly charging to 100 all the time. That's definitely a battery killer. Simply read the forums of people putting hundreds of thousands of miles on car batteries every day. State of charge should not exceed 80% daily with occasional charge to 100. Depletion is definitely a concern but not nearly as much as the damage done by charging to 100% every day. Best rule is charge normally to 80% and do your best not to drop too low in general. I have a year and a half of driving 20k miles on my Ford Lightning with zero degradation to the battery pack.
This is the stats for new batterys The numbers get smaller over time After 3k miles my battery only charged to 50v and cut off was 44 . Less than 50% range I do ride everyday , more than 1 battery too
i live 2 miles from my workplace, i should never have a low battery problem , Right ? i have the desire to purchase an Ebike to ride to work in the summer months, should i have any worries, i mean we can still pedal if in a worse case scenario, Right ?
Apologies if this question has already been asked, I hope you can help me. I did a lot of extensive research before deciding to purchase the xp step thru, and you should see my spreadsheet! I have never owned an ebike, but it's a big spend, and I wanted to be sure I thought of everything, but after receiving the bike today (yay!), it appears that I didn't think of everything. I noticed there is not a car charger available, and my sole intention for this bike is to take weekend camping trips. So, I checked their accessories options on the website and they do not even offer a car charger adapter, which makes me think it's not recommended. It is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, either. Can I use an adapter and charge this battery with my car charger? I've pulled up a few articles about ebike batteries and they say yes, as long as I have a 12-volt cigarette lighter, which I do, but I just want to be sure this will work with the lectric battery. Thanks for anything you can share!
@@ChrisCrossed Thank you so much for your fast reply. I have to admit, had I known I would have to spend another $400 to be able to charge it on my camping trips, I might not have made this purchase. :(
@@ChrisCrossed I actually have had it on my purchase-as-soon-as-funds-allow list, as well as a good solar panel or two, but that's a whole new spreadsheet of work to do. 😅 Anyway, I do appreciate your channel and your personal replies very much! 🙂
Hi Chris. I’m about to buy their new xp2.0. Should I pay $200 to upgrade from 7ah battery to 14ah? It’s for my kid on family ride here and there. I think we won’t really go very long ride but still wondering if more is always better. Thank you.
How to know if the battery went bad. ours is like 18 months old, haven't used in a while. charger green light comes on, no red light. It was red for like 2 minutes. When I tried to turn the bike on, I heard a popping noise, the display blinked, then nothing. Charged like 10 times. She wrecked and then kinda got scared of it. Now she's ready to get back on.
If the bike is not going to be used for long the battery needs to be a 50% if you store the bike away with and empty battery the battery will go bad. How long was the bike away? Was the bike running ok after the crash?
My bike died out at after 12 miles today . Riding in 39 degree weather . Could it have been the cold? I started with a full battery to. And my batt said 48 or about . So is something wrong !? And is there a way after the battery is dead where you can ride it like a standard bike ? I had to push it home. Seems like my battery doesn’t ever hold a good charge and I don’t ride everyday at all.
I have a new lectric xpress. The manual says to charge to %75 if not riding for a week or more. Then keep it there if stored longer. Otherwise, full charge. Maybe things have changed?
Hello Thanks for great info Couple questions. How do you know when you charge battery that it’s at 75% when it’s on charger ? Also does the battery from ally express come with a key as well … Thank you for your info , appreciate it very much …
Great , thank you , realized you said that towards end of video , forgot that you can charge battery while installed in bike … appreciate it ! New to Lectric bikes . First week riding it .
just buy a extra battery. i did. i charge mine to 53 amps but run it down to 43. some day i will die and i will feel good about my extra battery purchase on my death bed.
Just purchased a 3.0 step thru with long range battery. No issues with battery, but how can you check the battery with a voltage meter? Me and electricity are like a rattler in a sleeping bag. Thx for the info....
Thanks for this, very informative. One request, can you tell me the battry end connection type, and where I can purchase one of my own, in case I want to build my own battery pack for my bike, Thanks!
Please do the math for me. Show me how you get the voltsge number for charging it to 80% capacity and the voltage number for discharging it to 20% capacity.
You could have saved me time by just admitting there's no way for a non-engineer to know the remaining range. I just use the advertised distance minus 10%. All in all, I regret the "step up" purchase of the Lectric. I was better off with my 7-year-old Ancheer, but I can't get another battery for that one. I bought this because my health wouldn't let me pedal an acoustic bike as far as I once did. I'm going back to pedal bikes.
What do you recommend for transporting a spare Lectric battery on a trip? Backpacks specifically designed for ebike batteries may have an adverse impact on one's lower back. Panniers on the rear rack may work- but it is hard to find one with the right fit specifications that is also waterproof. One would also think that a hard case would be preferable. No panniers have any sort of fire resistance. Manufacturers sell spare batteries- but provide little support in helping the bike rider safely transport it.
I strap my spare battery alongside the battery compartment in the frame. I have the extra battery in a waterproof case that fits it tightly and I use a bungee cord in the center and two strips of Velcro at either end to give a three-point support running parallel to the internal battery.
Hi Chris great 👍 info on ebike batteries 🔋 do you know what brand of battery 🔋 cells Lectric uses? Are they Samsung or China generic? I read the best brands Samsung ,LG , Sanyo last longer and are more long term reliable.
I have my lectric ebike put up. I charged battery to full charge. I can not ride it in these icy weather conditions. So how would one go about using up battery to store it at 75%? Thanks for the great video.
I’m thinking for buying a Lectric Lite e-bike. It’s a smaller battery AH as you know. But, the bike is much lighter to compensate. I’m also thinking of buying a spare battery to carry with on longer trips on the e-bike. Do you recommend alternating use of both batteries during my normal riding. Or, just using one battery for normal trips all of the time but, and then bringing along a charged spare only when doing longer trips? If it’s the second choice is there any special maintenance to keep the second battery in good health when or in use?
Really curious how many battery types does the xp 3.0 come with ? I purchased my first bike it came with the wrong battery 48v 9.4 ah that doesn’t even go with that bike . So they send me one to replace the wrong one and controller . And it’s a different battery than the first . So prob persists they sent me a new bike and again a different battery. So how many does the xp 3.0 actually come with
I have a lectric 2.0.. 240 miles... No power... I had just turn key off.. I used to turn power off first.. Then key to off position... I'm checking the connection from led display and power switch plus or minus minus . there are little wires in the connection.. Do they bend and not make connections ?
I bike 14 miles every weekday for commuting (3.5 miles one way * 4 (lunch at home and head back to work) and there are some sections that I use PAS 5 and try to keep my bike above 25 MPH to keep up with traffic on a 25 MPH road. On weekends, I average about 30-40 miles and mostly use PAS 2 on bike trails. Lectric said that PAS 5 was hard on batteries and could shorten the battery life. Is that true?
Why the hell would they sell us a bike and then tell us to charge the battery to 75%? Too late now, my XP 2.0 step through with the longer range battery arrives tomorrow... but c'mon, man.
I just ordered mine will be delivered this week (December in Western NY). We won’t get ride time most likely until spring. Should we charge the batteries? Where do you recommend storing them for the winter? Thank you! Awesome video!
Just to help others get this important advice I thought I'd repeat a tip commented by 'pipedoc fpv'. Don't charge your battery immediately after a ride! Wait at least an hour for it to cool down first. Giving it that break will increase battery life. Another tip I've seen on another site relates to the commented idea here of typically charging to just 75 or 80%. In the tip I saw it advised to do that but to charge to 100% every three or four charges. Apparently the occasional full charge further helps extend battery life by giving the individual cells that make up the battery a better opportunity to balance their charges more equally. (In normal use the cells can get out of balance with each cell having slightly different charges and that over time degrades the battery performance).
thanks for sharing
Aren't these lithium ion batteries? That don't have a memory effect. What???
@@leeroyjenkins422 That advice was in regards to lithium ion batteries. Since I wrote that I've seen others stating the same thing and one acknowledging it but saying he personally disregards that advice. He said 'life is too short' to be fussing over such things, not caring if he reduces the overall life of the battery pack by a few charge cycles. He might have the right idea.
How do I program it to only charge to 80%? Or to any other value for that matter. My EV has an app that makes that easy so no problem there. Not sure how to do it on Lectric.
@@nogrey Limiting the charge typically can't be done automatically. Instead you need to occasionally check it's state of charge while charging (by looking at the bars on the display). When it reaches the state of charge you want simply take it off the charger.
I've worked on lithium ion batteries for over 20 years. Your advice is sound 👍
Thanks 🙏
I have 2500 miles on my original XP. Battery is still going strong with no signs of breaking down. I ride in all weather conditions. The bike has seen 100+degrees and months of Zero degrees. I have easily hit the 800 cycles mark. I am looking for an aftermarket 20Amp battery for range.
Wow, thats great to hear.
FYI My battery lasted 6000 mi. Just thought you would like to know.
Did you ever find that 20amp battery? Id be interested
Does this include heavy rain and snow?
Also important for LI-ON cells to not deplete under 20%. Use the 80/20 rule. Charge no more than 80%, and don't deplete over 20%, and over time you'll have much more happier cells.
Roger that.
then why do they not give a charger that charges to 80%, or at least give you an option to charge to 80% and then it cuts off?
@@timlist4173 because its a dumb charger, there is no smart tech in it. You need a smart charger, and most hobby chargers are $200+ dollars and you have to get the right plugs or make your own, its a DIY project.
they should offer a better charger even if you have to purchase seperately i mean gimme a break i would buy that charger then buy a damn other seat or second battery.
Too much trouble. I’ll have to buy another battery, if that’s what happens. I plan to own another anyway.
I just want to make sure they’ll work out before I drop another $1000 on a couple more batteries.
There seems to be much advice on charging and discharging lithium batteries. Mostly seems like a personal opinion. As an old engineer, I like to see the physics and data behind any recommendation. Meanwhile, I will keep the battery fully charged using the proper charger and avoid deep discharge as much as possible. The best advice I have seen is from Battle Born, which builds RV Lithium batteries. Also, the purity of the components used for lithium batteries is the most important and is reflected in the price.
I treat them how I treat my phone's battery. With respect, but not with kid gloves. I charge to 100% because I regularly use it, but usually not discharged below half. But even then, I don't worry too much.
most of it is very outdated. modern chemistries and battery management systems have overcome many of these misconceptions. Battleborn is very overpriced, you can achieve so much more building raw cell packs at a fraction of the cost and at a far more efficient voltage. My lifepo4 16s battery setup of 13.5 kwh would cost 6 times as much and weigh 3 times as much done with battleborns.
there are a couple of US companies that test and rebuild your E-bike battery pack with new cells and whatever else it needs,you can find them online. you have to ship your battery to them without knowing how much it's going to cost,because they don't know the condition of the cells or BMS until they actually test it. I think they do have ballpark numbers on their site. I ended up buying a new battery on Amazon.
Thanks for the tips! My XP 3.0 just arrived a few days back. I'm happy with the bike but any extra knowledge is valuable to me since this is my first ebike experience. I love the bike!
So I appreciate the tips! Thank you
Glad to help!
How's your 3.0 been so far? I just picked one up the other day.
Whatever you do, have your shop install the tannus tire / tube liner. The shop usually adds the slime to the tubes free of charge. Nobody is
Talking about repairing flats on these bikes. Sit and stare at the rear wheel. Ask yourself if you can repair the tube out on the road.
Add in 90° heat. My cargo bike was delivered on Friday. Monday the tannus were installed. Of course you will hear someone say, I’ve done
2,500 miles with never a flat. Then there will be someone that says, my first week and I received a flat. The tannus are considered insurance.
Have fun on your new bike.
@@mikegriego3671 mine breaks once a month. No power now. Looks like 6th motor controller needed. Bikes 18 months old
Just rode mine for the first time today and it said I had 50% battery after just 6 miles I figured I’d prolly need to cycle it a few times. But the voltage knowledge is a great way to tell
I also use usually only PAS2 ((Aipas A2 Elite almost identical to Lectric XP3.0 step-thru e-bike) throwout my daily 8 mi ride, and frequently when flat cement surface pedal without el. assist, also no assist while coasting some downhills. I can go 3-5 days before the voltage display shows down to just above 50V battery charge left. We, e-bike riders learned from each other sharing experience. Lectric, its cousin, Aipas, and most of the other brands keep quite how to prolonged the life of the most expensive e-bike part, the battery. Purposely the e-bike brands are not disclosing all the good knowledge how to ride we the users share in order to save ourself maintenance cost, and prolong the life of our e-bikes battery.
Thanks for watching
All good info, thanks! I’d like to add if anyone out there is noticing their batteries won’t charge to 54.6v exactly it may be the screen, not the battery or charger. Both our bikes only charge to 53.6 but I checked at the battery terminals and it was 54.6 there. One person in a group I’m in was showing his screen at 55v even. I’m in warranty so I’ll prob call Lectric about mine.
Another thing I’d add, and this just comes from several years experience with RC lipo batteries, is to wait at least an hour or two after riding for the cells to cool before charging as it shortens the life. This may not apply to li-ion but I’m thinking it prob does. Anyway thanks again!
Good t know thanks.
Both of mine are the same way. They show about 53.6v on the screen after the charger turns green. I also register higher with a real volt meter.
Chris mentioned that Lectric suggests to charge to 75%, but to your point about RC lipos, that's also the correct storage voltage. If you aren't going to be riding your bike for a while, it's best not to keep the battery fully charged or too discharged to drastically extend the life of the battery. It's also a good idea to store them in a temperature controlled place that's not too hot or too cold, and also in a secure place where they can't fall from high up or be punctured/crushed to reduce the risk of a fire. A friend of mine lost his house because one of his drone batteries dropped from his desk and burst into flames (yes, burst into a very big chemical flame), and that battery was MUCH smaller than these are. Be safe, be smart, receive years of worry free use.
Hey guys it's the screen that's reading the voltage wrong I called electric and they told me that the screen is reading a voltage wrong they said it's not a big problem as long as you get in the same range that you would be getting so if you just call electric they will tell you the same thing it's the screen that's reading the voltage wrong I got a new screen from them because I kept getting that e010 error code so they sent me a new screen the new screen shows 53 I think it's four or six when I re-plug up the old screen it says 54.6 so it's the screen not the battery the screen
54.6 Volts at the battery terminals is exactly where you want the “peak" charge to reach. Ignore the That’s 4.2 Volts per Cell as those 48 Volt packs have 13 cells in series. 4.2x13 = 54.6Volts. If the controller display is off a volt or like 53.6 Volts or so at peak full charge it’s not a big deal at all.
This vid makes me want to tape over the bar graph on the display and just use the voltage readout because I gravitate to to bars left. But there is probably more useful info on the top of the screen that I can’t remember right now what it is. Thanks for the info.
Yeah the bars ain’t the best judge!
Thanks to this video now I’ll just go by the amps hours to gage how much juice I have left.
@@alvaroq2024 yep, thats the way to do it!
Thanks for the information, just purchased two of them and wow are they way better than i anticipated.
My friend didn’t even get a month out of his before it stopped turning on without being plugged in to the wall. He called and they sold him a new battery for hundreds of dollars. I ignored the “No Tear Off” sticker (LOL!) on the battery and found a fuse inside the flimsiest fuse holder I’d ever seen, but the 35A fuse was not blown. Turns out, the fuse holder itself is a
Isn’t Lectric’s warranty 1 year? Why didn’t your friend get a replacement under warranty?
@@refresh77 The original owner died with only 17 miles on it and he bought it from the dude’s daughter. I know since I’m the one who responded to the Facebook ad and took him there. ;) Anyway, he’s not the original owner and I don’t think they warranty the battery anyway. :(
@@rayman6253 Not exactly. High voltages are prone to arcing, like a static shock, which can also create a channel of ionized air to conduct electricity causing burns and melt. A fuse is supposed to burn when the amps exceed the rating, which clearly didn’t happen. The fuse holder melted because there was a bad connection incapable of handling the amps required. The high voltage allowed it to arc into or across the fuse, pitting the contacts and burning out the fuse holder.
They used an automotive fuse which is intended for 6-24v, not 48v. This is why it arced without blowing the fuse. This is why switches and fuses have voltage ratings independent of their amperage ratings.
I'll stick to European quality instead of Chinese crap shoots.
@@teleguy5699 The ironic part is that they pretend this is an American made product. Their website is all about their American inventors/founders but in reality this is just a Chinese ebike.
Yeah what's your last comment proves they need to make these out of lithium-iron phosphate. Lithium iron phosphate batteries can be declinished to 0% and fully recharged to 100% every single time and get an average of 3,500 recharges before the battery starts to degrade to an 80% capacity level
Watt hours is the energy or gas in the tank. If you are comparing similar voltage batteries then Amp hours is a good comparison. Some bikes are only 36V while 52V is also becoming more common. Using the voltage at rest is a pretty good estimate of “fuel gage” level but its pretty close to empty below 3V/cell or 39V. You should not discharge to this level hence the 43V recommendation of this video. If you discharge the battery hard (I.e. use mostly full throttle or assist 5) then both the range and the life will be reduced. As the voltage goes down your top speed or amount of assist will also be noticeably less. I'm seeing the battery greatly diminished after a couple of years.
Well said.
Is it safe to add a 52v battery to this bike?
OK, so I have this video pulled up and a notepad open so that I can address each point.
Starting with the voltage of a fully charged battery. According to this video my display should show 54.6v when fully charged. I have never seen that voltage. The highest mine ever gets is 54.3v and that is on a brand new battery using the stock charger. On the low side you say 43v is the base, but I have gotten my battery down to 41.4v on a ride and still had power. Granted not much, but I still had it.
The energy bar. When your battery starts to fall below 48v you will see that the energy bar will start decreasing. So, if your voltage is at 48.1 volts (without pedaling... known as the idle voltage) you will show full bars. Once your idle voltage falls below 48v that is when that bar starts to lose blocks.
Cycles of the battery vary widely depending on the amount of riding that a person does. Someone who commutes 15 miles twice a day will be charging their battery more than someone who rides 3-4 times a week and goes less than 10 miles on each ride.
Finally something I can agree with. The more amp hours the more distance you can get... depending on several factors.
As for what Lectric recommends they hardly know much about how their bikes work. Most of the time turning to the various Facebook Lectric sites is the best way to learn anything.
I have a Lectric XP 1.0 that I use as my daily commuter, and as such I have experimented with various PAS settings, cruise, and here is what I have been able to determine.
PAS 2 is the best level to be in for all riding. Seriously. My morning commute is 15 miles with in increase in elevation of 340ft. Using PAS and cruise control I can get the entire way to work on surface streets, and at the end my battery is around 47.4 volts. On my return trip 85% of my trip is on a paved public bike trail and obviously I am going down in elevation by 340ft. Today I used a combination of PAS 1, 2, and 3 in various areas of my ride, and when I got home my battery was at 48.6 volts.
I know that if I did my ride in PAS 1 the entire way that my voltage would probably not drop below 50, and I could probably travel the mythical 45 miles that Lectric claims. I vary rarely use PAS 4 or 5 as they literally suck your battery dry.
One point that I would like to make is watching the current. This is better when it comes to conserving battery life. In fact it was someone on one of the Facebook groups that pointed it out. Keeping your current below ten extends your ride. I actually try to keep my current below 5, and it has made all the difference when it comes to distance.
In PAS 1 from a dead stand still your current will jump up to 8-9, but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 1-3.
In PAS 2 from a dead stand still your current will jump up to 12-13, but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 2-4.
In PAS 3 this is where it gets a bit tricky. From a dead stand still your current will jump up to 19 (which is the max), but as you start to build speed and a cadence it will drop to 3-4.
In PAS 4 and 5 it jumps straight to 19 and you really have to be pedaling to get it down below 10, and this is why they take up so much of your battery life.
Another trick is when going down hill do not pedal. Coast and save battery.
Hi Bill that’s weird that you don’t get the full 54.6, maybe try a new battery ? Interesting other details so thanks for sharing.
There are a couple of other posts to this video saying the bike voltage display is off. When they put a separate volt meter to the battery, they got expected voltage.
I just added the 20amp battery that Sunny Whitehurst has to my Lectric Xp 2.0 step thru. I was only getting maybe 20 miles on the 9.6 battery no more range anxiety.
Nice, did you have to change the controller?
@@ChrisCrossed No I followed Sunny videos on how to do it .
Thanks man, I thought my battery was bad, turns out the readout sucks.
Also important for LI-ON cells to not deplete under 20%. Use the 80/20 rule. Charge no more than 80%, and don't deplete over 20%, and over time you'll have much more happier cells.
You mean don’t deplete under 20%.
How do you stop it at 80%? The charger doesn't have a display setting.
@@bcflyer99 Get a charger that does. Check with Amazon or Walmart. Anyway, who says that it’s bad for batteries to be fully charged? Light turns green just unplug. Most charges stops charging at 100% automatically even if it’s still plugged in.
stupid advice, they are auto programmed to stop within the limits of safely operating the battery. I'm a battery tech and this isnt 2010.
@@alvaroq2024 Unlike lead acid batteries, lithium chemistry cells hate full charge:
Every time cell voltage goes above "golden middle" it starts cell degrading chemical reaction and obviously the higher you push the voltage the faster the reaction.
(super bonus damage from high temperature, which accelerates all chemical reactions)
Actually already charging cell full puts lots of stress on Lithium cell.
Propably all big brand eBike motor makers have battery management calibrated to stop charging at 80% full voltage.
This isn't being properly explained; he is using a 13S (13 cells in series) lithium ion battery bank. Voltage for a battery is listed as the median voltage of each cell (3.7V for this chemistry) multiplied by the number of cells in series (13S). This is a 48.1V battery. Each cell may not go below 3.3V (42.9V whole battery), this varies depending on the specific cells used, or above 4.2V (54.6V whole battery). If you are using a 14S battery (51.8V, often rounded to 52V) or are using a different chemistry battery like lithium iron phosphate then these numbers will be drastically different. For a large battery, like the ones found on e-bikes, applying too much voltage during charging (like charging his battery at 58.8V) or allowing the battery to discharge below it's limit will destroy the battery and may cause it to burst into flames. Make sure you don't mess this up
We bought two Lectric XPs. If yours arrives and works out of the box count yourself lucky. If it does not you'll spend a few hours underneath a brand new bike following emailed trouble shooting guides. If you fix your brand new bike you're lucky again because it's a high hurdle to get Lectric to get a new, working bike sent to you for the good money you've already paid. Things happen, we all understand that. The true measure of a company is how well it puts things on track, and makes a customer happy when things do go wrong. Lectric e-Bikes has a ways to go on this count. Be advised.
I’ve been thinking about getting a electric bike, but this kind of message makes me hesitate, so I really don’t know what to do
@@d7895482After the original misstep by Lectric all has been fine. If I was doing over again I would have bought two of the same bike for interchangeability of parts. The ones we bought are a bit heavy.
also, the closer you come to emptying your battery, the more stress you put on it. it's good to run these down to around 25% and then charge fully. kinda the opposite of what you were saying here. it is true however that charging from 80-100% takes more time than charging than the same 20% at lower ranges. Anyway, try to keep your batter above 20% and it is 100% okay to charge it fully even tho that may take slighty longer.
I don't know if you seen but lectric just came out with a new long range battery. Hopefully you'll have a review of it but I'll probably have it before then. Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks I’ll probably order it soon
They want 500$ for it, 1/2 the price of the whole bike!!
Nice video! Great analogy and explanation with the battery as the “gas tank”. You memorize those volt numbers fast when you are out riding and have range anxiety.
Thanks I have the voltage graph saved on my phone…
@@ChrisCrossed you should post it somewhere so we can utilize it also :)
@@joechristl1444 here you go ebikestrong.com/posts/22605110
@@ChrisCrossed thank you
@@ChrisCrossed FYI: As of 8/23/2024 this link (site) is no longer accessible. :)
My 2.0 battery was made in 2020.
It started to fail yesterday. So, you won't get 7 years.
Read the sticker on the battery. The info is different than Lectric's recommendations.
We are expecting our bikes in a few weeks. At the risk of sounding stupid, how do you know when the battery is at 20% and 80%?
Just look at the voltage in the display. Around 51 volts is 80%, around 45 is 20%
54.6 ------> 43.0
Good info
Voltage equals SPEED. AH equals RANGE. Learn it already!
IIRC,that battery case style is CH-006 or something similar. my Ancheer city cruiser folding e-bike uses the same 48V 10.6 AH battery. Be aware that different batteries may have the key lock,but not the electrical OFF switch,that's an option on the battery. also,there's two different case lengths,410mm and 430mm. mine uses the 430mm length.
Thank you. I learned something new and it put it into practice tonight
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for video. Thinking about getting these bikes . I’m 6’8”.
If you’re 6”8 I’d rather get an ebike with 26x4 tires for a better fit, the Lectric sits low
If you want to see a big guy on a Lectric, check out 'The Handsome Liberal'. He’s 6'6 and over 300 lb. That should be a comparable reference.
im upset at lectric. i thought the bms was suposed to take into account leaving extra charge automatically even though meter shows as empty so batteries dont drop below chargeable threshold. well mine didnt even last a year before battery started dying off earlier and earlier till it died off at 3 miles. that bike is not the easiest to pedal without power at all. wish i would have known what you just explained from day one about the voltage cutoff. thanks for your great video.
No offense mate but that not lectrics fault. You are using a battery that’s pretty expensive and you should educate yourself. This is pretty basic info on batteries. Keep batteries between 20-80% full charge once every few months. This is basic info for anything with a battery your phone laptop now your bike… take care of that battery they will last a long time.
You could've changed the min output to 43v
will leaving the key on the battery switch "on" without turning on the bike drains the battery?
Not that I know of
Can I take the battery out of the bike and charge the battery indoors if it's cold outside?
Yes indeed
Very informative video thank you Chris
How many Volts is 80%? 85%? Considering 50.5v is approx 75%. Also, how many volts is 25%? 20%? I'm new to all this. Help with the math is appreciated
80% = 51V, 85% = 51.9V, 20% = 45.3V
@@ChrisCrossed thank you! Much appreciated
Thank you. Such great and informative videos
Great video and good info on batteries
One weird problem I just had on my brand new e-bike (a GoTrax F2 identical to the Lectric) is that one morning is wouldn't power up. After inspection, i found that one of the battery female contact had the rectangular isolation around it damaged which prevent a proper contact. The bike hinge was still closing ok. So I push it back in and that fix it. It seems that the corresponding male blade didn't insert in the connector correctly. Not sure which one was the problem. I made sure that the blade was perfectly straight. I am extremely careful with the battery handling. I can't see how I could have damaged it. Now every time I close the hinge, I check that the blades insert properly in the corresponding contacts. It may be a good idea to check those contacts frequently, especially if you remove the battery often.
Probably happened at the factory
@@ChrisCrossed That's the only conclusion that I have too. I am surprised that it work fine for a week. The good thing is that they agree to send me a new battery due to another issue I had with it. It was loosing a quarter of its charge in a few minutes of use after a full charge. That way I will get rid of this defect at the same time.
@@ChrisCrossed I think I may have found the problem. From looking at it, you have to lock the battery with the key after inserting it BEFORE closing the hinge. If you close it while it is not completely in, there may be a slight contacts misalignment that can damage them Anyway, I was closing it before fully insert it, assuming it will push it fully in position. Now I know what to do to be more secured.
Fantastic video with great tips. Learned a lot. Many thanks.
Thanks bob, thanks for watching.
Great tips that are good to know, thank you.
Thanks. I was curious of full on my expedition. I had only hit them to 50.v before heading out for 25 miles. Back at 47v. With using pas 3 with some throttle out of traffic lights. Also unlocked. Was hitting over 30 at some points. I could out pedal in pas 3 if I wanted and really not much coast she slows down quick.
Where the contral pad lies it's real easy to place your hand an not knowingly drop your pas lol. Otherwise I'm pretty happy. I'm in limbo waiting on the rest of items to ship too. Should mention I'm rolling the large delivery bag on the back atm.
Nice, I’ll be doing my Xpedition accessory video in th e coming weeks.
@@ChrisCrossed ughhh I have mixed emotions on the accessories. Bad assery yes. But a week after I ordered everything they had their father's day sale would of saved almost $200 and now items are back ordered till August (large panniers) or shipping in July. Luckily I should have the upgraded headlight this Tuesday and perhaps the front rack by next weekend. Was told running the large delivery bag with the large panniers may be tight but apparently doable. No baskets here just the seat pads with R-boards and all delivery bags. I have two extra batteries.
What also erks me sir. Is say we went 4a to charge might shorten these batteries in the long span. So I went 2a all around. Wouldn't mind rolling solar along the panniers.$$$
@@johnnyroses9170 yeah a bigger charger would be nice
@@ChrisCrossed from what lectric told me the batteries for the expedition are not designed for fast chargers. Asked them before going after market on a 2nd charger. Now I'm off to find the ideal tire pressure. Their pump kicked off at 2.5 bar front & rear. I didn't switch it to psi. Sy.
That’s helpful Chris. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Thanks for watching
My son uses his bike for a commuter for school and work, he needs to charge it to 100% every day. That’s a bummer that they recommend not charging it all the way to 54 V consistently
You can still do it but likely will reduce the life of battery sooner
I wouldn’t sweat it.Charge fully and enjoy.
As long as its being used so much thats fine. You want to charge it to 100% before riding. Just if sitting for over say 3 days ideally 75% charge is best meaning its best not to store at 100% for longer periods than 2-3 days..its in lectric bike instructions..
I am concerned about these batteries not being UL certified. Lectric says they do pass "Lectric eBikes' batteries pass the ISO 4210 and UN 38.3 standards for safety" Can someone tell me if this is equivalent to UL certification.
Lectric batteries are name brand cells and I have never heard of any of them catching fire. Its the cheap generic cells you need to worry about.
Great information! Thank you!😊
You are so welcome! thx for watching
Appreciate the information, thanks
Great tip...Thank you!
Get information also if in live where there cold weather do not leave or store outside
EXCELLENT
Got a display cover that has volt numbers on left side 54 down to 42 and % numbers on the right side from 100% to 0....from etsy for Lectric ebikes.
Once the warranty runs out on my ebike I will be adding a second battery just in front on the rear wheel area sitting low.....probably an extra 10Ah battery.
This was very informative, thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
I just ordered a lectric xp lite bike, should be here next week. What do you think about this brand of bikes?
The XP Lite is my favorite Lectric, so easy and fun to ride.
Can you put a long range battery in a XP 3.0 if you didn’t originally buy the model that’s called “long range battery XP 3.0”? I’m buying my sister’s bike and I don’t think that is the version she bought, but I’d like to get a back up battery and wondered if I could buy the long range battery.
you can upgrade to a 14ah, its the same size case
Great and clear info.
People saying it doesn't matter if you charge to 100% and that it's more important not to discharge past a certain point don't know much. Those people shouldn't buy an EV car. They would be very unhappy having to replace a 15k battery after repeatedly charging to 100 all the time. That's definitely a battery killer. Simply read the forums of people putting hundreds of thousands of miles on car batteries every day. State of charge should not exceed 80% daily with occasional charge to 100. Depletion is definitely a concern but not nearly as much as the damage done by charging to 100% every day. Best rule is charge normally to 80% and do your best not to drop too low in general. I have a year and a half of driving 20k miles on my Ford Lightning with zero degradation to the battery pack.
If I leave the key in the On or Power position and leave it overnight
. does this drain the Battery. Thank you
Nope I've dont that several times, no worries.
This is the stats for new batterys
The numbers get smaller over time
After 3k miles my battery only charged to 50v and cut off was 44 . Less than 50% range
I do ride everyday , more than 1 battery too
Is that the same information for the trike?
Basically yes
Regarding your spare battery. How often should it be charged if unused, weekly, monthly?
Every 1-2 months is fine
Very helpful, thank you
Welcome thanks for watching
Great info. Thanks
Thanks for watching
i live 2 miles from my workplace, i should never have a low battery problem , Right ?
i have the desire to purchase an Ebike to ride to work in the summer months, should i have any worries, i mean we can still pedal if in a worse case scenario, Right ?
Absolutely an ebike will be perfect for commuting
Thanks for info!
Are you able to use the spare battery after the main one is done? To get more range?
Sure you can pop in a new battery any time.
@@ChrisCrossed so technically you can have 2x 14.0 amp batteries?? The XP premium only has 2x 10.4 amp battery.
@@justonecritic1169 yeah
Apologies if this question has already been asked, I hope you can help me. I did a lot of extensive research before deciding to purchase the xp step thru, and you should see my spreadsheet! I have never owned an ebike, but it's a big spend, and I wanted to be sure I thought of everything, but after receiving the bike today (yay!), it appears that I didn't think of everything. I noticed there is not a car charger available, and my sole intention for this bike is to take weekend camping trips. So, I checked their accessories options on the website and they do not even offer a car charger adapter, which makes me think it's not recommended. It is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, either. Can I use an adapter and charge this battery with my car charger? I've pulled up a few articles about ebike batteries and they say yes, as long as I have a 12-volt cigarette lighter, which I do, but I just want to be sure this will work with the lectric battery. Thanks for anything you can share!
You need one of those portable power stations to bring with you.
@@ChrisCrossed Thank you so much for your fast reply. I have to admit, had I known I would have to spend another $400 to be able to charge it on my camping trips, I might not have made this purchase. :(
@@SuperNewKittie oh i see, power stations are in the hundreds $$$ so it wont be cheap to charge off grid
@@ChrisCrossed I actually have had it on my purchase-as-soon-as-funds-allow list, as well as a good solar panel or two, but that's a whole new spreadsheet of work to do. 😅 Anyway, I do appreciate your channel and your personal replies very much! 🙂
@@SuperNewKittie thanks for tuning in :-)
Hi Chris. I’m about to buy their new xp2.0. Should I pay $200 to upgrade from 7ah battery to 14ah? It’s for my kid on family ride here and there. I think we won’t really go very long ride but still wondering if more is always better. Thank you.
More is always better but the 7.8ah will get them 20 miles ish. If thats enough, go for it.
Thank you!
Good , good info bro....thanks
Thanks for watching bro.
Great info thanks 🙏.
How to know if the battery went bad. ours is like 18 months old, haven't used in a while. charger green light comes on, no red light. It was red for like 2 minutes. When I tried to turn the bike on, I heard a popping noise, the display blinked, then nothing. Charged like 10 times. She wrecked and then kinda got scared of it. Now she's ready to get back on.
Hmmm, somethings up with it. Your warranty is expired though. Might need a new battery.
If the bike is not going to be used for long the battery needs to be a 50% if you store the bike away with and empty battery the battery will go bad.
How long was the bike away?
Was the bike running ok after the crash?
My bike died out at after 12 miles today . Riding in 39 degree weather . Could it have been the cold? I started with a full battery to. And my batt said 48 or about . So is something wrong !? And is there a way after the battery is dead where you can ride it like a standard bike ? I had to push it home. Seems like my battery doesn’t ever hold a good charge and I don’t ride everyday at all.
lithium batteries do NOT do well in cold weather. performance really drops off.
Perfect for emergency earthquake supple
I live in Texas. Hot and humid summers. Is it safe to keep my battery in bike parked in the garage?
Yes as long as it is out of the elements it will be fine,
Thanks@@ChrisCrossed
Hey Chris, where can you get the 14ah. ER Battery at a better price than the 500$ that lectric charges?
You can check on AliExpress
I have a new lectric xpress. The manual says to charge to %75 if not riding for a week or more. Then keep it there if stored longer.
Otherwise, full charge.
Maybe things have changed?
Keeping it stored at 75 is a way to make it last longer over time
Hello
Thanks for great info
Couple questions. How do you know when you charge battery that it’s at 75% when it’s on charger ? Also does the battery from ally express come with a key as well …
Thank you for your info , appreciate it very much …
Look at the voltage, 75% is around 50 volts, yes it came with a key
Great , thank you , realized you said that towards end of video , forgot that you can charge battery while installed in bike … appreciate it ! New to Lectric bikes . First week riding it .
just buy a extra battery. i did. i charge mine to 53 amps but run it down to 43. some day i will die and i will feel good about my extra battery purchase on my death bed.
Just purchased a 3.0 step thru with long range battery. No issues with battery, but how can you check the battery with a voltage meter? Me and electricity are like a rattler in a sleeping bag. Thx for the info....
I dont know how to use one of those meters but you essentially insert the two end points into where the battery connects to the ebike.
Thanks for this, very informative. One request, can you tell me the battry end connection type, and where I can purchase one of my own, in case I want to build my own battery pack for my bike, Thanks!
I believe the Lectric has Deans connectors
Please do the math for me. Show me how you get the voltsge number for charging it to 80% capacity and the voltage number for discharging it to 20% capacity.
Look at this voltage chart then unplug the charger when the voltage gets to 80% ebikestrong.com/posts/22605110
I purchased my 2.0 lectric step through less than 2 years ago. I have approx 300 miles and my battery will not take a charge. Any help or advice?
Either buy a new one or send it out to be fixed. Kevin at Northeast can fix it www.northeastbatterysystems.com/
You could have saved me time by just admitting there's no way for a non-engineer to know the remaining range. I just use the advertised distance minus 10%. All in all, I regret the "step up" purchase of the Lectric. I was better off with my 7-year-old Ancheer, but I can't get another battery for that one. I bought this because my health wouldn't let me pedal an acoustic bike as far as I once did. I'm going back to pedal bikes.
lectric brand battery is 300 from their website why pay 350 for a knock off brand?
Thats a recent offering, a Lectric version wasnt available until last year.
Good video! Have you tried the Oraimo Scrambler 100, if so, how would you rank these 2 as these are the final two on my list for purchase?
Thanks for watching i have not seen that one.
Is your math correct at 75%??? Show me how you get 75% from a high of 54.6 and low of 43.0. Thank you
my voltage is at 50.8 in this vid which is roughly 75%
What do you recommend for transporting a spare Lectric battery on a trip? Backpacks specifically designed for ebike batteries may have an adverse impact on one's lower back. Panniers on the rear rack may work- but it is hard to find one with the right fit specifications that is also waterproof. One would also think that a hard case would be preferable. No panniers have any sort of fire resistance. Manufacturers sell spare batteries- but provide little support in helping the bike rider safely transport it.
Best bet is transporting on the rack somehow. One guy i saw wrapped in towel and tied it down on rack with bungee cords.
I strap my spare battery alongside the battery compartment in the frame. I have the extra battery in a waterproof case that fits it tightly and I use a bungee cord in the center and two strips of Velcro at either end to give a three-point support running parallel to the internal battery.
Hi Chris great 👍 info on ebike batteries 🔋 do you know what brand of battery 🔋 cells Lectric uses? Are they Samsung or China generic? I read the best brands Samsung ,LG , Sanyo last longer and are more long term reliable.
The batteries are not Samsung or LG so prob something else more generic.
Thank you for these useful bits of knowledge!.....................esullo
I have my lectric ebike put up. I charged battery to full charge. I can not ride it in these icy weather conditions. So how would one go about using up battery to store it at 75%? Thanks for the great video.
Only way to drain it is riding but don’t worry it will be fine if stored at full charge
@@ChrisCrossed Thanks, I just looked at it, its at 54 vol and its the long range Batt. So I guess its full
I guess you could turn it upside down turn it on and twist on the throttle for awhile.
Assuming you still have icy weather around this time.
I’m thinking for buying a Lectric Lite e-bike. It’s a smaller battery AH as you know. But, the bike is much lighter to compensate. I’m also thinking of buying a spare battery to carry with on longer trips on the e-bike. Do you recommend alternating use of both batteries during my normal riding. Or, just using one battery for normal trips all of the time but, and then bringing along a charged spare only when doing longer trips? If it’s the second choice is there any special maintenance to keep the second battery in good health when or in use?
Second choice, just store it at 50% until needed.
Really curious how many battery types does the xp 3.0 come with ? I purchased my first bike it came with the wrong battery 48v 9.4 ah that doesn’t even go with that bike . So they send me one to replace the wrong one and controller . And it’s a different battery than the first . So prob persists they sent me a new bike and again a different battery. So how many does the xp 3.0 actually come with
I plan to buy this for my daily commute. Will the battery be ok plugged in for 9 hours while I'm out working? does it not automatically stop charging?
Yes the charger turns green, you can buy one of those remote smart plugs that you can turn on/off with your phone.
I have a lectric 2.0.. 240 miles... No power... I had just turn key off.. I used to turn power off first.. Then key to off position... I'm checking the connection from led display and power switch plus or minus minus . there are little wires in the connection.. Do they bend and not make connections ?
So what your saying is we have basically 10.6 V of Battery ride time. So at 49.3 its time to turn around to make it back before I run out of juice.
Yep
@@ChrisCrossed Thank you I will definitely switch my display to Volts and monitor that.
Ok. What happened ? Will not lite up led power screen.. ? Quick connection plugs dont hardly disconnect..
Where's the link to AliExpress for the battery?
No need for it anymore since Lectric now sells a 14ah
I bike 14 miles every weekday for commuting (3.5 miles one way * 4 (lunch at home and head back to work) and there are some sections that I use PAS 5 and try to keep my bike above 25 MPH to keep up with traffic on a 25 MPH road. On weekends, I average about 30-40 miles and mostly use PAS 2 on bike trails. Lectric said that PAS 5 was hard on batteries and could shorten the battery life. Is that true?
I haven’t heard that to be honest. All batteries will degrade over time. These are supposed to be good for 800 charges.
@@ChrisCrossed I asked Lectric and they said the battery should last for 400 charges.
aliexpress is 290$ for the battery from lectric its 299$. and won't void my warranty.
Why the hell would they sell us a bike and then tell us to charge the battery to 75%? Too late now, my XP 2.0 step through with the longer range battery arrives tomorrow... but c'mon, man.
Only if you are storing it for an extended time. If you ride a lot don’t worry about it.
I just ordered mine will be delivered this week (December in Western NY). We won’t get ride time most likely until spring. Should we charge the batteries? Where do you recommend storing them for the winter? Thank you! Awesome video!
Store them inside, suggest charging them to 75% and leave indoors, maybe charge for 30 minutes once a month if you are not using them.
Did u get your battery with your bike? I just opened mine and didn't get one
@@kenjihaag329 yes I did