I like what you are doing Gavin with your wind power plant. Using two magnet motors siameed together is plain guinness fella. Look forward to see the finished product Sir. I have given you some pointers that i thought of on this project Gavin. Good luck and forge ahead mate. What you should of done with the bearing is get one that has a built in flange. Then distortion is cut down to zero. When you were welding I could tell by the sound that the metal was not cleaned with acetone, that is why the welding sound was off. You are a welder or not ?? The collars you should be using are double split locking collars. The setscrew ones you have on the shaft do not lock that well on the shaft.
Collars. And as far as the AL wires, you can try crimp terminals on them. It would have seemed that it would have been better to make the shaft rotate and have the bearings in the stationary part. Welding bearings is always a bad idea as the heat softens the area where the weld is. Source of early failures.
Yes thank you I know it is collars my text-to-speech always spells it as colours no matter how I say it it and yes welding the bearing unfortunately was the only way I could do it.
at this point you would probably be better off building it from scratch... - to be honest.. it really wouldnt be the bad.. but hey man.. get her done.. looks good so far.. dont forget to use a flywheel..
Can this system work with my aluminum stator? I have the same model. What do you recommend I do to lower the voltage so it can go into a battery? I am building a hydro system. Also do you know where I can find an explanation of the wiring between the stator and the rest of the electronics? I have no background in electrical engineering. Thank you in advance.
I have not tested this stator yet , if you are making hydro you need the original bearing spindle thing from the washing machine as well, I think copper stator would be much better for you , the re wiring isnt that hard go to a site called www.thebackshed.com cheers
Hi Gavin very good work. But I have some comments here as I am also in the process of building similar generator: 1. How do we know that the motor use allumunium wire instead of copper? (I mean from visual look only or you have to test by soldering the wire?). 2). I prefer to make the shaft rotates, so both rotor are joint together with this shaft and rotate together. I think this is easier to build. 3. If you don't change the wiring, the voltage will be higher at lower RPM. So I still don't understand why you change the wiring, that will lower the voltage. 4.My LG motor has 12 magnets poles with 36 (or 3x12) coils. Do you know what is the KV number of this motor? And what is the current rating? Thank you and good luck...
1) I have a video I think which shows the difference , the wire is a ) brown rather than copper coloured and b) the wire if fatter and each coil has less turns, also you will probably find the rotor will have " AL " on it somewhere. I didnt have an original washing machine shaft or I may have done it with that , it's still waiting to be finished. I don't know the answers to your other questions I'm afraid, I made a video with the diagrams for changing the configurations of the stator.
Ahh this one looks great... im starting to look araund in my area for these motors... cant stand it anymore :D ;) how you will protect stators from weather?
make sure you don't buy on qith aluminium wires, I will put a video up tonight with how to tell so you don't make the same mistake I did, please note they do need rewiring, cheers.
The chain and gears will be a huge frictional loss, more than any benefit from having multiple ratios. Stick with direct drive and match load to meet wind conditions.
@@GavinFreedomLover Bigger blades are always better, so long as your generator can handle it, but I cannot overstate how important fewer moving parts are. The average car loses one quarter to one third of it's horsepower to the gearbox. Friction is your enemy. At best, your gears will help you find the optimal generator speed, and hopefully your big blades will compensate for the losses. Once it's set I doubt you will need to change ratios though. Commercial wind turbines use variable vane geometry. They use a turbine as big as possible to catch the tinyest bit of wind and adjust the angle of the blades into strong wind so the whole thing doesn't explode. Seeing your capable engineering, I'm sure this is something you could experiment with on your next project. Keep up the great work, i'm keen to see more on how you regulate the voltage etc. and how well these induction motors perform generally.
@@joepickles8689 I thought I saw gearing in the giant turbines on tv , plus like you say variable pitch blades for high winds. That's slot of power 1/4 loss so if it was a 1000 hp engine 250hp loss that's some heat
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I like what you are doing Gavin with your wind power plant. Using two magnet motors siameed together is plain guinness fella. Look forward to see the finished product Sir. I have given you some pointers that i thought of on this project Gavin. Good luck and forge ahead mate.
What you should of done with the bearing is get one that has a built in flange. Then distortion is cut down to zero. When you were welding I could tell by the sound that the metal was not cleaned with acetone, that is why the welding sound was off. You are a welder or not ??
The collars you should be using are double split locking collars. The setscrew ones you have on the shaft do not lock that well on the shaft.
Thanks for this comment , I am not using these motors anymore, cheers.
What kind of motors are you using now Gavin ?? @@GavinFreedomLover
The metal shavings between your magnets are stealing some of the flux
Bravo
Thank you
Collars. And as far as the AL wires, you can try crimp terminals on them. It would have seemed that it would have been better to make the shaft rotate and have the bearings in the stationary part. Welding bearings is always a bad idea as the heat softens the area where the weld is. Source of early failures.
Yes thank you I know it is collars my text-to-speech always spells it as colours no matter how I say it it and yes welding the bearing unfortunately was the only way I could do it.
And yes thank you I will definitely try some of the crimps.
at this point you would probably be better off building it from scratch... - to be honest.. it really wouldnt be the bad.. but hey man.. get her done.. looks good so far.. dont forget to use a flywheel..
This project was from 5 years ago these motors are rubbish for turbines
Great work
Any attempt to turn these two motors to an infinite generator? One a motor power the other as a generator?
No mate
How much power can that lay out generate.....1-10 KWs ?
Please can you share the link to the motor with the stator metal extended all the way to the 6 mounting holes in the stator. Thanks
If I join the two stator as one... can I get the same gain?
One wonders if Maytag washers direct-drive motors would work in this scenario.
Some of them do for sure.
Can this system work with my aluminum stator? I have the same model.
What do you recommend I do to lower the voltage so it can go into a battery?
I am building a hydro system.
Also do you know where I can find an explanation of the wiring between the stator and the rest of the electronics? I have no background in electrical engineering.
Thank you in advance.
I have not tested this stator yet , if you are making hydro you need the original bearing spindle thing from the washing machine as well, I think copper stator would be much better for you , the re wiring isnt that hard go to a site called www.thebackshed.com cheers
@@GavinFreedomLover Yep I have the spindle as well
Hi Gavin very good work. But I have some comments here as I am also in the process of building similar generator: 1. How do we know that the motor use allumunium wire instead of copper? (I mean from visual look only or you have to test by soldering the wire?). 2). I prefer to make the shaft rotates, so both rotor are joint together with this shaft and rotate together. I think this is easier to build. 3. If you don't change the wiring, the voltage will be higher at lower RPM. So I still don't understand why you change the wiring, that will lower the voltage. 4.My LG motor has 12 magnets poles with 36 (or 3x12) coils. Do you know what is the KV number of this motor? And what is the current rating? Thank you and good luck...
1) I have a video I think which shows the difference , the wire is a ) brown rather than copper coloured and b) the wire if fatter and each coil has less turns, also you will probably find the rotor will have " AL " on it somewhere.
I didnt have an original washing machine shaft or I may have done it with that , it's still waiting to be finished.
I don't know the answers to your other questions I'm afraid, I made a video with the diagrams for changing the configurations of the stator.
Ahh this one looks great... im starting to look araund in my area for these motors... cant stand it anymore :D ;) how you will protect stators from weather?
I have a couple of ideas, it will have a cover of some kind which will have open slots for the chain.
make sure you don't buy on qith aluminium wires, I will put a video up tonight with how to tell so you don't make the same mistake I did, please note they do need rewiring, cheers.
@@GavinFreedomLover tnx ;)
Spray paint? 😂
also I may paint the coils in resin once the stator has been re wired.
Please can you give me the part number of the motor
What washing machines have this motor? Is it any direct drive LG or specific models?
Any washing machine that has the words DIRECT DRIVE on it !!
@@GavinFreedomLover cool, thanks a lot for answering. Looking forward to your double motor turbine videos!
Yes mate it's gonne epic for sure, I am just uploading a video on the stators now , watch it if you are looking to buy a motor.
@@GavinFreedomLover will do, thanks!
I am sorry, I don't see how the chains will drive the sprocket with the connecting bolts.
Thanks , the bolts will work as long as they are all on the inside of the sprocket , I may have to find a different way , I am still sussing it out :)
MAke it a vertical turbine.... is much more eficACE AND don't mather where the wind will come...
This one will be a HAWT project much more power that way , a VAWT would be alot easier to build.
output power result ?
Not until it's flying a few more weeks on the build yet.
Check my latest video ,it's a long way from being on the top of a tower but will get there in the end.
Aluminum not good on water
This design was all copper wire.
Elle tourne fausse elle va se remasser dans le champ 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The chain and gears will be a huge frictional loss, more than any benefit from having multiple ratios. Stick with direct drive and match load to meet wind conditions.
It may do but I do have some decent sized blades to stick on it.
@@GavinFreedomLover Bigger blades are always better, so long as your generator can handle it, but I cannot overstate how important fewer moving parts are.
The average car loses one quarter to one third of it's horsepower to the gearbox. Friction is your enemy.
At best, your gears will help you find the optimal generator speed, and hopefully your big blades will compensate for the losses.
Once it's set I doubt you will need to change ratios though.
Commercial wind turbines use variable vane geometry. They use a turbine as big as possible to catch the tinyest bit of wind and adjust the angle of the blades into strong wind so the whole thing doesn't explode. Seeing your capable engineering, I'm sure this is something you could experiment with on your next project.
Keep up the great work, i'm keen to see more on how you regulate the voltage etc. and how well these induction motors perform generally.
@@joepickles8689 I thought I saw gearing in the giant turbines on tv , plus like you say variable pitch blades for high winds. That's slot of power 1/4 loss so if it was a 1000 hp engine 250hp loss that's some heat