@@dncook1955 Very stupid comment. The terminoligy matters. Orangepickel2 is just pointing out the presenter of the tutorial hasn't got a clue about rope, wire, splicing, hitching or knotting. You take your lessons of who you want in life mate but sometimes its best to listen to the old timers. They know the most and are willing to share.
Nice splice tutorial. But a few things, you wound the rope backwards onto the spool (should feed off the bottom), didn’t spool the rope under tension and are using the wrong fairlead. That fairlead is for a steel cable. Otherwise great video.
Very stupid question here but wouldn't the roller type fairlead be better so as not to cause the edge from the other style from cutting into the rope over time since it is stationary? I mean isn't that the purpose of the roller type on the steel cable type as well? I would think that the roller type working properly and freely would be best in both situations, or am I wrong?
@@kovuk9 I've always been told to use an Aluminum Fairlead for Synthetic Rope, and Rollers for a steel cable. The rollers get dirty and burred and damage the Synthetic Rope easily opposed to Aluminum Fairleads, especially it a Steel Cable ran through the rollers prior.
@@kovuk9 the roller styles are also known to pinch in the corners and cut the synthetic cable. Smooth aluminum fairlead is definitely the way to go. Look at what the major manufacturers are using on their synthetic winches.
That's smart spooling up on the bottom, the people without common sense wont see why you did it this way but spooling on the bottom helps lift the vehicle out of the situation, pulling higher up, from the top of the spool, even only 4 inches pulls down on it which is what you don't want. People without common sense what so ever wont be able to figure this out....great job.
Video shows everything correct, except he did wrap it backwards. Remote was in for out etc so I wrapped it the other way. I had to wrap end of rope with a string multiple times to compress to get through hole on spool too however. Video very helpful overall.
I intended to replace my daughter's ATV cable with synthetic, and the one thing I would have done is melt the end of the synthetic cable with a propane torch after it had been threaded through. I hate frayed rope. I did not need to melt the end of the cable because it had a compressed battery cable end on it. I was able to grind the spade off the end, compress the attached sleeve with locking pliers, sand it down a bit, and then drill out the shaft attachment hole slightly. I took a flat-nose screwdriver and a hammer to tap the sleeved synthetic cable into the shaft and used the set screw from the old steel cable installation to secure the cable. If the cable had not had the spade connector on the end, I would have purchased a short length of steel tubing and threaded the synthetic cable into it, squeeze the tubing to secure it to the cable, and then held it in place with the same set screw. The installation is much cleaner by not having excess rope cable to use as an anchor to the shaft.
Wrap electrical tape around the frayed end very tight and into a point, worked for me. Once through a little bit use needle nose to pull it through the second hole
Thanks for the video. Are all fairleads universal on Polaris? And is it safe to use a roller with synthetic? Was told to go with a Hawes fairlead instead.
You can make a stronger more streamlined loop by inserting the needle with rope down the center of the lead then after a couple inches going through the side. Leave the end of the rope in the center of the lead. Think Chinese finger torture.
After the Rope is fed through the winch and you make the knot, it does not show you reinstalling the Allen screw? I presume that you just did not show it right?
It's been 3 years since your comment but today(2020) I installed a 3/16th octane rope on my factor winch. It came with a outer covering over the rope, I had to cut it off in order to fit it through the hole. Also, not mentioned in this video, so I'm guessing you don't have to but I used the set screw from the steel cable to hold down the rope. Like I said, its been 3 years so you've probably figured this out hah.
What type of winch controller is on the ATV? I have a hand held with cable, but this one seems to be much better and must be directly connected to the winch.
What is the name of the threading tool? I couldn't make it out in the video. Is also not recommended to replace allen screw (what size is it to remove)?
You can just drill it out if you dont plan on ever going back to Steel cable ... Its not necessary for Synthetic with the tie he does once its through the hole. Its common to have issues getting the bolt out.
First time using the winch, guess when the cable was loaded it had a bend which caused some of the wire to be exposed, tearing the crap out of my gloves. This was right from the dealer... besides once you go synth you will never go back. Synth, doesn't corrode, won't tear your hands up, is lighter, and will stretch but not break/snap.
@@irvingdog01 Don't know I got a fair amount, not tons but then it's not rubber bands right but a lot more than a steel cable and without that annoying steel cable fracture..
My synthetic rope broke a few feet from the hook. So to reattach the hook I have to unwind the entire length of line and detach from spool so I can do step two where you run the opposite end through the line? Is there another way without doing that?
Steel cable gets nasty after awhile, corrodes and frays, cuts fingers. Rope is easier to handle and coil up etc. Also steel has more mass during a line snap, that hurts to. Rope floats to. Just my opinion, used both.
@@luuk-out-below9804 Yeah, First time using the winch, guess when the cable was loaded it had a bend which caused some of the wire to be exposed, tearing the crap out of my gloves. This was right from the dealer... besides once you go synth you will never go back.
This is incorrect. When spooling a winch, it must be under tension. So, attach hook to something on a slight incline about 45 feet away and reel in. Stand in front of machine and help guide the rope across the drum evenly.
@@gonecrazynback yes the set screw would cut rope. it wont unspool under a load the load is what keeps in on once the line is tight the wraps hold itself in
Thank you, that is what I said a year ago I also said I've been splicing wire rope and line (rope) for 50 years. Today some person of greater intelligence said that I was a worthless heckler. You may be the next person on the usless heckler list of the individual. LOL
@@orangepickel2 ha funny. Orangepickel2 I'm like you, I also work with rope and such. I have about 20 years in the tree work game as a climber, feller and rigger. Its just so bad to hear someone supposedly giving a tutorial to be butchering the terminology which we use, work and live by in such a poor fashion. To those of us who work with this kind of gear (Wiinching big back leaders over with D8 dozers, building our climbing hitches and strops etc) the terminology MATTERS. going round saying wrong words like this guy is woukd get big gear and pissibke powerlines, houses and people broken. Its just such an obvious butcher and shows the guy doesn't actually have a clue what he is talking about.
@@HighMaintenancePS brack in 1975 I went into basic training U.S Coast Guard Marlin spike seamanship instructor, said the most important thing I ever heard about tying knots and splicing. You never tie a knot or make a splice that you personally do not trust your own life to. Lived by that Creed during my military career, the 18 years I captain small vessels, 15 years deep sea Merchant Sailor, private pilot license, use ropes to secure small planes to ground. During the last 30 of these years maintained a commercial drivers license. Class A. Orange pickel is CB radio since 1976.
@@orangepickel2 mate, take my hat off to you. Yeah you old salts run rings around us guys on line management although we do know a few tricks for sure. I really appreciate your passing on the knowledge regards only using knots and splices you can trust your life to. I agree, I've seen some ugly damage caused by lazy knots or hitches. Cheers Orange. 🙏
Maximum winch rope length is 50’ which is set there to help prevent issues with the rope binding, bunching, etc. on the spool. There is also a lot of energy stored in a tight 50’ winch cable or rope, and the longer the cable/rope, the higher amount of energy can be stored in the system, creating additional concerns around safety. More may be able to fit, but we don’t recommend using more for those reasons.
Been splicing line and wire rope for 50 years you are the first to ever call a splice a knot.
This is why you see less and less people helping others .....the worthless heckler in the background.
@@dncook1955 Very stupid comment. The terminoligy matters. Orangepickel2 is just pointing out the presenter of the tutorial hasn't got a clue about rope, wire, splicing, hitching or knotting. You take your lessons of who you want in life mate but sometimes its best to listen to the old timers. They know the most and are willing to share.
Nice splice tutorial. But a few things, you wound the rope backwards onto the spool (should feed off the bottom), didn’t spool the rope under tension and are using the wrong fairlead. That fairlead is for a steel cable. Otherwise great video.
Very stupid question here but wouldn't the roller type fairlead be better so as not to cause the edge from the other style from cutting into the rope over time since it is stationary? I mean isn't that the purpose of the roller type on the steel cable type as well? I would think that the roller type working properly and freely would be best in both situations, or am I wrong?
@@kovuk9 I've always been told to use an Aluminum Fairlead for Synthetic Rope, and Rollers for a steel cable.
The rollers get dirty and burred and damage the Synthetic Rope easily opposed to Aluminum Fairleads, especially it a Steel Cable ran through the rollers prior.
@@kovuk9 the roller styles are also known to pinch in the corners and cut the synthetic cable. Smooth aluminum fairlead is definitely the way to go. Look at what the major manufacturers are using on their synthetic winches.
I believe all Polaris winches spool in "backwards", from what i can tell.
Why did this dude watch the video if he has all the answers
That knot just about made my head pop off
That's smart spooling up on the bottom, the people without common sense wont see why you did it this way but spooling on the bottom helps lift the vehicle out of the situation, pulling higher up, from the top of the spool, even only 4 inches pulls down on it which is what you don't want. People without common sense what so ever wont be able to figure this out....great job.
Video shows everything correct, except he did wrap it backwards. Remote was in for out etc so I wrapped it the other way. I had to wrap end of rope with a string multiple times to compress to get through hole on spool too however. Video very helpful overall.
Great job, now I know how to splice synthetic rope.
Did he put the set screw back in? And what diameter is the rope?
Don't need the screw for Synthetic...The way he ties it off underneath will secure it just fine.
I intended to replace my daughter's ATV cable with synthetic, and the one thing I would have done is melt the end of the synthetic cable with a propane torch after it had been threaded through. I hate frayed rope. I did not need to melt the end of the cable because it had a compressed battery cable end on it. I was able to grind the spade off the end, compress the attached sleeve with locking pliers, sand it down a bit, and then drill out the shaft attachment hole slightly. I took a flat-nose screwdriver and a hammer to tap the sleeved synthetic cable into the shaft and used the set screw from the old steel cable installation to secure the cable. If the cable had not had the spade connector on the end, I would have purchased a short length of steel tubing and threaded the synthetic cable into it, squeeze the tubing to secure it to the cable, and then held it in place with the same set screw. The installation is much cleaner by not having excess rope cable to use as an anchor to the shaft.
Wrap electrical tape around the frayed end very tight and into a point, worked for me. Once through a little bit use needle nose to pull it through the second hole
Thanks for the video. Are all fairleads universal on Polaris? And is it safe to use a roller with synthetic? Was told to go with a Hawes fairlead instead.
You can make a stronger more streamlined loop by inserting the needle with rope down the center of the lead then after a couple inches going through the side. Leave the end of the rope in the center of the lead. Think Chinese finger torture.
What size Allen key to get the set screw out? I have a hundred of the bloody things and none fit good enough to loosen the dam thing.
Did you happen to find out the Allen key size? I'm stumped
I'd just like to know how to retie the end after it snaps.. I don't want to have to take the entire cable off the machine to do this..
All you have to do is keep using the fans stand off rope about an inch apart. No need to go the longer side
After the Rope is fed through the winch and you make the knot, it does not show you reinstalling the Allen screw? I presume that you just did not show it right?
It is not installed.
@@richardbelliveau8881 Is that intentional ? Or did he just forget to re-install it ? Is the allen screw only required for steel cable ?
Definitely appreciate this video. Keep them coming!
How do you get the nut on the right side off? The nuts from the rollers are too big for me to get a socket head on the right nut
Will a 3/16" diameter synthetic rope fit through the factory hole in the Polaris winch without modifictions?
It's been 3 years since your comment but today(2020) I installed a 3/16th octane rope on my factor winch. It came with a outer covering over the rope, I had to cut it off in order to fit it through the hole. Also, not mentioned in this video, so I'm guessing you don't have to but I used the set screw from the steel cable to hold down the rope. Like I said, its been 3 years so you've probably figured this out hah.
@@BangBangSticks Its been 3 more years and your comment helped me out today. Thanks
I just bought my Fids on eBay todo it!
What type of winch controller is on the ATV? I have a hand held with cable, but this one seems to be much better and must be directly connected to the winch.
Wireless option: atv.polaris.com/en-us/shop/accessories/winches/2879316/?pfm=Browse
Pre-wired option: atv.polaris.com/en-us/shop-parts/2207/2207175
I bet this dude can make a quilt.
Its been recommended to change to a hawse fairlead for synthetic rope, is this necessary?
Damn good video
What is the name of the threading tool? I couldn't make it out in the video. Is also not recommended to replace allen screw (what size is it to remove)?
Anson Rinesmith I’ve always used a cheap pen, just gut it out and run some dental floss through it and that works wonders
It’s called a fid
Has anybody had issues with removing the bolts that hold the fairlead on?
I'm beginning to wonder if they didn't use loctite on mine..
You can just drill it out if you dont plan on ever going back to Steel cable ... Its not necessary for Synthetic with the tie he does once its through the hole.
Its common to have issues getting the bolt out.
Should I go synthetic or cable? Cable probably lasts longer.
First time using the winch, guess when the cable was loaded it had a bend which caused some of the wire to be exposed, tearing the crap out of my gloves. This was right from the dealer... besides once you go synth you will never go back. Synth, doesn't corrode, won't tear your hands up, is lighter, and will stretch but not break/snap.
@@Northern_Frost And IF it snaps under load, you are much safer than with a wire.
@@Northern_Frost don’t expect much stretch….
@@irvingdog01 Don't know I got a fair amount, not tons but then it's not rubber bands right but a lot more than a steel cable and without that annoying steel cable fracture..
Where can I find a find a find that would fit 3/16 ths
Thanks for this vid! Missing my allen wrench key to hold in the synthetic rope. Any ideas on getting a spare part?
Maybe you can get his, he never mentioned putting his back in.
@@gregorysrock2321 lol
How do I get the rope at the end back threw mind keeps getting stuck
wrong fairlead and you didn't put tension on the line when you wind it in
My synthetic rope broke a few feet from the hook. So to reattach the hook I have to unwind the entire length of line and detach from spool so I can do step two where you run the opposite end through the line? Is there another way without doing that?
The process outlined in the video is what we'd recommend to follow
Same here
This type of rope does NOT like knots. This bury/splice is the proper method
Why should you use a synthetic rope instead of a steel cable?
Steel cable gets nasty after awhile, corrodes and frays, cuts fingers. Rope is easier to handle and coil up etc. Also steel has more mass during a line snap, that hurts to. Rope floats to. Just my opinion, used both.
@@luuk-out-below9804 Yeah, First time using the winch, guess when the cable was loaded it had a bend which caused some of the wire to be exposed, tearing the crap out of my gloves. This was right from the dealer... besides once you go synth you will never go back.
This is incorrect. When spooling a winch, it must be under tension. So, attach hook to something on a slight incline about 45 feet away and reel in. Stand in front of machine and help guide the rope across the drum evenly.
But he is an engineer!!! ;)
Thanks man. Exactly my thoughts bc someone said to me: Always spool under tension.
good explanation, learned something today
thanks, great video
Thank you for your help :=)
did you put the allen set screw back in?
No we did not (shown in the video)
Why do we not put the Allen back in? Is there a reason for it?
@@PolarisORV was that an oversight ? Or, is the allen screw only required for steel cable ?
What's a service engineer?
fancy name or mechanic!
All the videos I've seen the rope goes under the spool not over it. You put it on backwards
yea, the lower it is the less leverage on the mounting bolts and winch
You might be right about that, but the metal cable he removed was over the spool.
How strong is the blue synthetic rope?
About 12% stronger than equivalent diameter high grade steel wire rope.
Can't find a 3/16 fid.
wouldnt a bowline hitch work easier and much faster ?? thats what i am doing. i will probably bowline both sides, easier .
This type of cordage does not like knots
I meant to say Fid...
Seriously? You don't even put that set screw back in to keep the synthetic line from just unspooling under load? That doesn't seem right.
I thought the same thing. Is there a difference because it is rope and not cable?
@@gonecrazynback yes the set screw would cut rope. it wont unspool under a load the load is what keeps in on once the line is tight the wraps hold itself in
It's a splice not a knot!
Thank you, that is what I said a year ago I also said I've been splicing wire rope and line (rope) for 50 years. Today some person of greater intelligence said that I was a worthless heckler. You may be the next person on the usless heckler list of the individual. LOL
@@orangepickel2 ha funny. Orangepickel2 I'm like you, I also work with rope and such. I have about 20 years in the tree work game as a climber, feller and rigger. Its just so bad to hear someone supposedly giving a tutorial to be butchering the terminology which we use, work and live by in such a poor fashion. To those of us who work with this kind of gear (Wiinching big back leaders over with D8 dozers, building our climbing hitches and strops etc) the terminology MATTERS. going round saying wrong words like this guy is woukd get big gear and pissibke powerlines, houses and people broken. Its just such an obvious butcher and shows the guy doesn't actually have a clue what he is talking about.
@@HighMaintenancePS brack in 1975 I went into basic training U.S Coast Guard Marlin spike seamanship instructor, said the most important thing I ever heard about tying knots and splicing. You never tie a knot or make a splice that you personally do not trust your own life to.
Lived by that Creed during my military career, the 18 years I captain small vessels, 15 years deep sea Merchant Sailor, private pilot license, use ropes to secure small planes to ground. During the last 30 of these years maintained a commercial drivers license. Class A. Orange pickel is CB radio since 1976.
@@orangepickel2 mate, take my hat off to you. Yeah you old salts run rings around us guys on line management although we do know a few tricks for sure.
I really appreciate your passing on the knowledge regards only using knots and splices you can trust your life to. I agree, I've seen some ugly damage caused by lazy knots or hitches. Cheers Orange. 🙏
@@HighMaintenancePS have a very short knot tying video on my channel you might find it interesting
Complete with a dead battery
That’s bullshit! It should come pre-looped! I’m not a fucking seamstress!
A new skill a day keeps the doctor away. Plus if you get a rope break out on the trail. You can get unstuck. Instead of calling a seamstress.
Good video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
what's the maximum length we can put on the winch?
Maximum winch rope length is 50’ which is set there to help prevent issues with the rope binding, bunching, etc. on the spool. There is also a lot of energy stored in a tight 50’ winch cable or rope, and the longer the cable/rope, the higher amount of energy can be stored in the system, creating additional concerns around safety. More may be able to fit, but we don’t recommend using more for those reasons.