I just finished this job. I had to do what others have done. I pulled the exhaust. I chopped a five inch piece out of the axle next to the carrier bearing on the transmission side. After I took the piece out it allowed me to use a 3 pound hammer to pound the bearing from the carrier. It's the hardest repair I've ever done. Not in complexity, but with sheer effort. It didn't come out easy. Even with a 3 pound mall.
Thanks. This was the trick. To everyone who asks if you have to drop the exhaust the answer is “no, but.” My sienna had 248k on its original CV axle and it was hammered. So to speak. We tried everything. This video was the trick but we did use a Sawzall with the Diablo blade. IMHO you’ll not have much luck hearing it because all the heat will transfer to the block and subframe. It’s a huge heat sink and I’ll doubt you get the carrier to even notice the heat. But using your advice it popped out just like yours did. The exhaust is not such a huge deal.
This did the trick. I had drop the exhaust, cut the axle just like you showed. Then I had to heat it with a torch. A few good hits and “BAM” it came out. So relieved. I spent a whole day trying to get it out before I came across your video. Approximately 2 1/2 hours of work today.
Thank you for the video, I had to show this to my mechanic, because he got stuck trying to remove the Axel, I guess is a common occurrence on older models. Is a great car just too bad the rust is what destroys it.
I couldn't done it with out this video. I cut a part of with the grinder. I got stuck hitting the axel with a 3 pound hammer. I put some BARDAHL WB-50 that did the job. Thanks man
Surprised this doesn't get more views. This will solve my problem. Also shows the alternative carrier bearing used on my 02 Highlander. Thank you for taking the time to film this. I know it's a Pita and will slow you down. For other newbys like me, this isn't a full tutorial, but there are plenty of videos that are.
Nice. I had the same thing done to my 2000 sienna. Also, replaced the rear engine mount bushing. I had forgotten how smooth the engine runs. Can't really feel the engine running unless my hands are on the wheel. Got 260,000 miles on it. Everything works great. Mechanic only charged $90 for labor to replace the axle and press in a new bushing.
I do everything myself on my 98 Sienna. I replaced, the passenger axle shaft twice. I hit a pothole and slightly bent the axle a few yrs ago the first time. I didn't cut the axle or remove the exhaust. I did it in 6 hours, laying on my back in a driveway. 1st, Using a 1500lb air hammer and a 20lb slide hammer as the same time with a friend, the carrier bearing would not move out of the mount at all!. Torching it didn't work! I took out the axle together with the engine mount connected, through the passenger wheel well, after I moved the power steering pump and a hose out of the way. It was a bitch to loosen the top engine mount bolts, and release the engine off the mount. I had to use a 12 point short socket and keep turning the socket on a breaker bar to just move the bolts the slightest bit with the old axle still in place. A ratchet will not fit between the mount bolts and axle. They did come right out though. PS support the engine before you disconnect the mount! Recently the top of my struts jolted loose after hitting another pothole and caused my axle to fail again days after I replaced the struts.. I read on the new axle spec sheet, a worn loose strut will cause axle failure.
In order for a Hackzall or Sawzall to work, one must use a carbide tip blade, a 6-inch metal blade like the "Lenox Thick Metal Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon" Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF). It is important to douse the blade with cutting fluid to start and keep dousing it, especially if it is throwing sparks. Although the Lenox blade is supposed to be better according to Project Farm, I used the Diablo DS0608CF along with a Milwaukee 2821-20 Sawzall. Make one through-cut flush with the back of the tulip and another through-cut 2-inches inboard from the bracket. Then you will be able to remove the outboard segment, unfasten and remove the carrier bearing bracket, and finally remove the segment from the transmission. If your Sienna is a model year prior to 2004, a model with the integrated carrier bearing bracket and motor mount, make a third through-cut a foot away from the transmission, enabling you to pound the remnant out without removing the bracket-motor mount. Going forward, I recommend temporarily replacing the 14mm bolt with a straight non-tapered M10-1.25 Zerk fitting and using a grease gun to fill the passage around the carrier bearing, preventing it from seizing up in the future.
16" AIR HAMMER CHISEL ON INSIDE WORKED FOR ME, BUDDY HAD A PRY BAR ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE TO GET IT STARTED - AIR HAMMERED THE REST OF THE WAY OUT. THIS METHOD TOOK 5 MINUTES AFTER FIGHTING WITH IT WITH OTHER FAILED METHODS . MY DIABLO BIT WAS WORN OUT :(
The axle was made of solid steel, (not a hollow pipe) therefore, I was unable to cut it with the diablo blade on a reciprocating saw. in order to fit my grinder up there with a cut off blade, I needed to drop the exhaust. if you can cut the axle without dropping the exhaust, I say go for it.
Having trouble with a 1999 V6 automatic Toyota Solara on the passenger side. Everything seems to be in the way and trouble. It's stuck. Should I use a slide hammer
I've been happy with parts from Cardone in the past. Generally,. I go with carquest parts from advance auto. They are usually helpful and are good at upholding the warranty should you run into problems with your parts.
I try to torch and didn't have any luck. If the slide hammer doesn't work, you need to figure out a way to get behind it and hit it with a bigger hammer.
I think I'd try to heat that bolt red hot and pop the head of the bolt with a chisel. Or if you can get it out a little bit then maybe a reciprocating saw blade would reach it. Then just replace the damaged bolt.
I looked at this again. The rear mount is all Saggy and about to fail. I pulled the CV, mount and bracket in one piece through the passenger wheel well. I had to slide all the power steering, pump, belt, hoses out of the way of removing CV&mount and bracket from my Sienna in one piece. The top mount bolts were a bitch to remove. Now you have a new CV axle and a saggy rear mount that is about to fail, because engine oil drips onto the rear mount, from the rear valve cover, slowly rotting the rubber. Since this video, the rear mount probably failed.
I just finished this job. I had to do what others have done. I pulled the exhaust. I chopped a five inch piece out of the axle next to the carrier bearing on the transmission side. After I took the piece out it allowed me to use a 3 pound hammer to pound the bearing from the carrier. It's the hardest repair I've ever done. Not in complexity, but with sheer effort. It didn't come out easy. Even with a 3 pound mall.
Glad you got it done 👍. I definitely know how hard some of these repairs can be.
Thanks. This was the trick. To everyone who asks if you have to drop the exhaust the answer is “no, but.” My sienna had 248k on its original CV axle and it was hammered. So to speak. We tried everything. This video was the trick but we did use a Sawzall with the Diablo blade. IMHO you’ll not have much luck hearing it because all the heat will transfer to the block and subframe. It’s a huge heat sink and I’ll doubt you get the carrier to even notice the heat. But using your advice it popped out just like yours did. The exhaust is not such a huge deal.
If you don't remove the exhaust you can't reach the end of the cutoff shaft to hammer on it. The exhaust is below that part of the shaft.
This did the trick. I had drop the exhaust, cut the axle just like you showed. Then I had to heat it with a torch. A few good hits and “BAM” it came out. So relieved. I spent a whole day trying to get it out before I came across your video. Approximately 2 1/2 hours of work today.
I'm glad it helped!
Thank you for the video, I had to show this to my mechanic, because he got stuck trying to remove the Axel, I guess is a common occurrence on older models. Is a great car just too bad the rust is what destroys it.
I'm glad you got it figured out ☺️
I couldn't done it with out this video. I cut a part of with the grinder. I got stuck hitting the axel with a 3 pound hammer. I put some BARDAHL WB-50 that did the job. Thanks man
Awesome! Glad you got it done 👍
Thank you Sir. Tony
Surprised this doesn't get more views. This will solve my problem. Also shows the alternative carrier bearing used on my 02 Highlander.
Thank you for taking the time to film this. I know it's a Pita and will slow you down.
For other newbys like me, this isn't a full tutorial, but there are plenty of videos that are.
Nice. I had the same thing done to my 2000 sienna. Also, replaced the rear engine mount bushing. I had forgotten how smooth the engine runs. Can't really feel the engine running unless my hands are on the wheel. Got 260,000 miles on it. Everything works great. Mechanic only charged $90 for labor to replace the axle and press in a new bushing.
👍
☺️
Any chance your mechanic is in LA?
I do everything myself on my 98 Sienna. I replaced, the passenger axle shaft twice. I hit a pothole and slightly bent the axle a few yrs ago the first time. I didn't cut the axle or remove the exhaust. I did it in 6 hours, laying on my back in a driveway. 1st, Using a 1500lb air hammer and a 20lb slide hammer as the same time with a friend, the carrier bearing would not move out of the mount at all!. Torching it didn't work! I took out the axle together with the engine mount connected, through the passenger wheel well, after I moved the power steering pump and a hose out of the way. It was a bitch to loosen the top engine mount bolts, and release the engine off the mount. I had to use a 12 point short socket and keep turning the socket on a breaker bar to just move the bolts the slightest bit with the old axle still in place. A ratchet will not fit between the mount bolts and axle. They did come right out though. PS support the engine before you disconnect the mount! Recently the top of my struts jolted loose after hitting another pothole and caused my axle to fail again days after I replaced the struts.. I read on the new axle spec sheet, a worn loose strut will cause axle failure.
👍
In order for a Hackzall or Sawzall to work, one must use a carbide tip blade, a 6-inch metal blade like the "Lenox Thick Metal Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon" Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF). It is important to douse the blade with cutting fluid to start and keep dousing it, especially if it is throwing sparks. Although the Lenox blade is supposed to be better according to Project Farm, I used the Diablo DS0608CF along with a Milwaukee 2821-20 Sawzall. Make one through-cut flush with the back of the tulip and another through-cut 2-inches inboard from the bracket. Then you will be able to remove the outboard segment, unfasten and remove the carrier bearing bracket, and finally remove the segment from the transmission. If your Sienna is a model year prior to 2004, a model with the integrated carrier bearing bracket and motor mount, make a third through-cut a foot away from the transmission, enabling you to pound the remnant out without removing the bracket-motor mount. Going forward, I recommend temporarily replacing the 14mm bolt with a straight non-tapered M10-1.25 Zerk fitting and using a grease gun to fill the passage around the carrier bearing, preventing it from seizing up in the future.
Thanks for the input!
Thank you! I have access to a metal fab shop so I got some options.
👍
My Toyota Avalon has the same design,and bearing was so seized I ended up taking the whole bearing housing out,!hard way but done!
Currently dealing with this exact issue on my 97 Avalon. Rented a slide hammer, used air chisel, nothing is working. I’ll try your way.
Good luck 👍 let me know if you have any questions.
16" AIR HAMMER CHISEL ON INSIDE WORKED FOR ME, BUDDY HAD A PRY BAR ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE TO GET IT STARTED - AIR HAMMERED THE REST OF THE WAY OUT. THIS METHOD TOOK 5 MINUTES AFTER FIGHTING WITH IT WITH OTHER FAILED METHODS . MY DIABLO BIT WAS WORN OUT :(
👍
Thanks brother you really help me out
👍
Isn't there a snap ring on that axle bearing holder hole that's part of that rear motor mount?
There is a snap ring that holds the bearing in to the housing. You can see it hanging on the axle at 4:41
On another video I saw a bolt on the bottom of the motor mount also holding the axle bearing in as well.
Yes, I believe I took that bolt out before I started the video.
Do you really need to drop the exhaust for this job? Need to do rear engine mount 2002 Sienna
The axle was made of solid steel, (not a hollow pipe) therefore, I was unable to cut it with the diablo blade on a reciprocating saw. in order to fit my grinder up there with a cut off blade, I needed to drop the exhaust. if you can cut the axle without dropping the exhaust, I say go for it.
Having trouble with a 1999 V6 automatic Toyota Solara on the passenger side. Everything seems to be in the way and trouble. It's stuck. Should I use a slide hammer
If slide hammer doesn't work, gotta start tearing things apart and cut the axle.
Worked great thanks
I'm glad I could help 😊
I'm having a difficult time removing the retaining ring. What has worked for you?
Penetrating oil and snap ring pliers
hi there what brand cv axle did you decide to go with for the replacement? I was torn between Cardone and GSP
I've been happy with parts from Cardone in the past. Generally,. I go with carquest parts from advance auto. They are usually helpful and are good at upholding the warranty should you run into problems with your parts.
Map torch?
I try to torch and didn't have any luck. If the slide hammer doesn't work, you need to figure out a way to get behind it and hit it with a bigger hammer.
I think I'd try to heat that bolt red hot and pop the head of the bolt with a chisel. Or if you can get it out a little bit then maybe a reciprocating saw blade would reach it. Then just replace the damaged bolt.
👍
I looked at this again. The rear mount is all Saggy and about to fail. I pulled the CV, mount and bracket in one piece through the passenger wheel well. I had to slide all the power steering, pump, belt, hoses out of the way of removing CV&mount and bracket from my Sienna in one piece. The top mount bolts were a bitch to remove. Now you have a new CV axle and a saggy rear mount that is about to fail, because engine oil drips onto the rear mount, from the rear valve cover, slowly rotting the rubber. Since this video, the rear mount probably failed.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to check next time I have it in the shop. the customer brings it in regularly.
Honestly had the same problem all I did was rent an axle puller and slide hammer and it came right off.
thanks for your reply! this video shows how to remove the axle when the bearing won't come out of the housing even with a nice slide hammer.
I got mine out by spraying the crap out of it with Kroi-oil, PB Blaster, letting it sit for a day and yanking on it back and forth for about 5 min.
👍
Help my toyota is on fire i think i sawed the fuel line
Impressive! Especially since the fuel line is on the other side of the car 😂