I have always really enjoyed watching the factory potential of stuff being optimized by guys willing to do the work to develop them! Am really enjoying this so far. Thanks for doing them. BTW...your run of the mill FE heads have 2.03 I, and 1.56 E. Thanks from South Central PA. 👍👍
I think it’s important to get young folk interested in giving their creativity an outlet and trying to carve some metal into a high flow shape. Not all of them will decide they like it but those that do will keep the hobby healthy into the future and may even provide them some income depending on how serious they get.
Time to use your wind flag wand to see what the port wants. A good friend of mine Joel A. Dubose has always said to me, " Don't try and force the wind and fuel where you think it should go but actually see where it wants to go naturally." The valve guide Vane is a good idea to see if you can pick up anything at all. That Exhaust is BIG, good lord. I would play with clay and raise the floor up to that bump and see what happens. I bet those heads take off like a Banshee. Those are definitely thin castings in areas where its critical to make them flow. Flow ball time with the wind flag.
I have a set of aluminum heads, I need steam holes drilled in them . Not something I really want to tackle myself. I would want at least a drill press. A bridgeport mill even better. (They also can use a bit of abrasives ran through the ports also. I have two sets that can use a bit of port play!✌️ 😎 👍, have an awesome day....
Just use a head gasket as a template. Lay the gasket on the block and note which gasket holes line up to the block's steam holes. Use the gasket as a template to know where to drill the new holes. Use a punch to mark the head, and drill until you're through the deck. It's actually really easy with a hand drill.
Chamber shape looks very similar to an early 351 Windsor head witch I have done several sets of, had a hard time getting past about 225 cfm on the first ones until I started using DV’s method of unshrouding the intake valve. With that 245 is doable with a 1.94 valve!
The exhaust liked fixing the terrible ssr and allowed the port to utilize the big 1.625” valve. I’m assuming the intake bowl started out around 1.47” and it’ll have to go to 1.60” with the ssr worked and a hard pulling valve job to see the 245 number. Just a guess though.
People like to say small valves make rpm. Id rather think it means high port energy. For a small displacement motor having a high port energy port. But still having enough airflow to support the high rpms for the amount of air flowing through is why they are able to spin rpms. Also the high port energy should be able to help amplify the reflective waves better.
When adding a fin, the fin will add stability on one side at the expense of the other depending on it's angle relative to the flow. If you bias the fin so it's cambered or the sharp edge points towards the CoC, where most of the dyechem is currently going, it will improve flow on the other side at the expense of the CoC side. If it's cambered to the cylinder wall side, then the flow will improve on the CoC side at the expense of the wall side. @7:24 the way the guide boss trailing edge is shaped it's pointing towards the cylinder wall side. Just my dumb .002 cents A fin works just like it does on a surf board, it builds up pressure on one side, which then bleeds over to the other, the vortex shed by the fin cleans up the flow along the wall on the pressure side, while creating a flow obstruction(reducing CSA) on the other side, so it limits flow, but temporarily increases velocity. The net result is more flow stability in general on the side of the fin facing the flow and an altering of the flow path on the opposite side.
Now that I get to your flow sheets it makes perfect sense, the guide boss will make or break this head. Because that will determine the way the flow enters the chamber through the bowl.
Thanks for all the videos and all the legit info! Question: Maybe i missed it? But why are you starting to port on the heads when the valve seats have not been installed yet? And you do not have the actually valves yet that will be used?
Hi Charlie, nice first cut! I am curious as to which head is a better design between the mopar 675 head and these gt40 heads.. seems the 675 has more room for improvement , while the gt40 heads seem better out of the box?
Charlie, question for you. I always consider the throat a final choke point so I will measure it at different areas looking for the smallest measurement. For example, on an E7 with the 1.78 intake valve I will usually get a 1.51” measurement side to side (3 to 9 o’clock and same as the bowl width), and maybe a 1.55” at the noon to 6 o’clock position, a 1.57” at the 2 to 8 o’clock position and a 1.56” at the 4 to 10 o’clock position. I’ll average the four of them and use that number as the throat size. Is this similar to how you do it?
@ man… I have the goofiest sleep schedule. Totally random and I am very envious of people like my wife who can lay down, be out in 5 minutes and sleep for 6 to 8 straight hours and wake up totally refreshed. My sleep is more like 3 hrs now, 1.5 hrs at noon, etc. Makes for a difficult life at times lol.
Sorry more FE . The truck 360 had about the best looking forged crank out of the Detroit Big 3 I ever worked on . Beautiful radii rods and mains , and just a clean forging .
Nice tip on Charles spreadsheet! Also, you can “skootch” the guides apart a bit and fit 2.02 & 1.6. A friend of mine did it on a set decades ago. UT tester is your friend, there’s spots that are easy to get to thin!
You talking about the short side being thin. It made the think, that being a new casting. I wonder 🤔, could the thin area be heated with a torch or induction heater (probably both) and flux the inside, slip some silica bronze, or possibly nickel. To add some thickness to the area. It would be cool if a powdered bronze or nickel could be poured into the water jacket with flux either in it like solder(flux core!) Heat the area until the metal melted!! The flux assuring it sticks after it melts. Do you know if anyone has done this BEFORE Breaking THRU TO THE WATER JACKET? Adding about .045" to .060" thickness to the thin areas. Can save the day when porting. And grinding away , all the sudden tfe sound changes, the color of the metal changes. It could be an interesting experience! You know exactly? Here to STOP! 🤔.
@@servediocylinderheads Was at the Columbus, OH all Ford swap meet back in the 90's when aftermarket heads started to hit big. Guy sold an entire pallet of these C6FE heads cheap, as they were 'outdated'. I think he was wanting $75/head and after he sold a few, someone bought the entire rest of the pallet. I remember the exhausts being huge, and assumed the intakes would be a lot better than they are. Guess they just 'ported' the mold without adding adding any more metal. lol
I have always really enjoyed watching the factory potential of stuff being optimized by guys willing to do the work to develop them! Am really enjoying this so far. Thanks for doing them. BTW...your run of the mill FE heads have 2.03 I, and 1.56 E. Thanks from South Central PA. 👍👍
@@jimkingk9597 Love P.A. my inlaws have a place up there. Almost moved there. Thanks
I think it’s important to get young folk interested in giving their creativity an outlet and trying to carve some metal into a high flow shape.
Not all of them will decide they like it but those that do will keep the hobby healthy into the future and may even provide them some income depending on how serious they get.
Time to use your wind flag wand to see what the port wants. A good friend of mine Joel A. Dubose has always said to me, " Don't try and force the wind and fuel where you think it should go but actually see where it wants to go naturally." The valve guide Vane is a good idea to see if you can pick up anything at all. That Exhaust is BIG, good lord. I would play with clay and raise the floor up to that bump and see what happens. I bet those heads take off like a Banshee. Those are definitely thin castings in areas where its critical to make them flow. Flow ball time with the wind flag.
@@garykarenmcgruther6386 Stay tuned! What a sonic workout!!!
I like when you look at the exh ssr you are viewing it from the perspective of air coming from the middle of the cylinder.
I have a set of aluminum heads, I need steam holes drilled in them . Not something I really want to tackle myself. I would want at least a drill press. A bridgeport mill even better. (They also can use a bit of abrasives ran through the ports also. I have two sets that can use a bit of port play!✌️ 😎 👍, have an awesome day....
Just use a head gasket as a template. Lay the gasket on the block and note which gasket holes line up to the block's steam holes. Use the gasket as a template to know where to drill the new holes. Use a punch to mark the head, and drill until you're through the deck. It's actually really easy with a hand drill.
Chamber shape looks very similar to an early 351 Windsor head witch I have done several sets of, had a hard time getting past about 225 cfm on the first ones until I started using DV’s method of unshrouding the intake valve. With that 245 is doable with a 1.94 valve!
@@mpstang-6179 Good info. On small cube engines I am more reserved on chamber size. Thanks
@ yeah, I’m with you on that! Just out of curiosity, have you cc’d the ports on this head?
@@mpstang-6179 Stay tuned. I will do that on the next head. I need to know before and after numbers. Thanks
Exhaust is really looking and flowing great now, I'm surprised the intake didn't pick up more
@@No1414body Me too!
Thanks
The exhaust liked fixing the terrible ssr and allowed the port to utilize the big 1.625” valve.
I’m assuming the intake bowl started out around 1.47” and it’ll have to go to 1.60” with the ssr worked and a hard pulling valve job to see the 245 number.
Just a guess though.
@@65mustang393 245cfm will be tough to get. We will see. Thanks
@@servediocylinderheads thank you for making such enjoyable videos to watch!
People like to say small valves make rpm. Id rather think it means high port energy.
For a small displacement motor having a high port energy port. But still having enough airflow to support the high rpms for the amount of air flowing through is why they are able to spin rpms.
Also the high port energy should be able to help amplify the reflective waves better.
When adding a fin, the fin will add stability on one side at the expense of the other depending on it's angle relative to the flow. If you bias the fin so it's cambered or the sharp edge points towards the CoC, where most of the dyechem is currently going, it will improve flow on the other side at the expense of the CoC side. If it's cambered to the cylinder wall side, then the flow will improve on the CoC side at the expense of the wall side. @7:24 the way the guide boss trailing edge is shaped it's pointing towards the cylinder wall side. Just my dumb .002 cents
A fin works just like it does on a surf board, it builds up pressure on one side, which then bleeds over to the other, the vortex shed by the fin cleans up the flow along the wall on the pressure side, while creating a flow obstruction(reducing CSA) on the other side, so it limits flow, but temporarily increases velocity. The net result is more flow stability in general on the side of the fin facing the flow and an altering of the flow path on the opposite side.
@@rolandotillit2867 The dykem really tells you what the port wants. Thanks
@@servediocylinderheads Right now it's saying it wants to go down the center of the cylinder, mostly.
@rolandotillit2867 Stay tuned!
Now that I get to your flow sheets it makes perfect sense, the guide boss will make or break this head. Because that will determine the way the flow enters the chamber through the bowl.
Bride of Chucky GT40’s
Turning into a beauty Queen
@@ElvinLeadfoot Not sure how beauty they will be but I am working on it! Thanks
Thanks for all the videos and all the legit info!
Question:
Maybe i missed it?
But why are you starting to port on the heads when the valve seats have not been installed yet?
And you do not have the actually valves yet that will be used?
@@therory6888 Iron heads can have seats cut directly on the iron. I can do that. Iron will not wear excessively if the guide clearance is correct.
@ Okay. Thanks
Ended up with 264CFM!
@@rolandotillit2867 It could be worse....Thanks
Hi Charlie, nice first cut! I am curious as to which head is a better design between the mopar 675 head and these gt40 heads.. seems the 675 has more room for improvement , while the gt40 heads seem better out of the box?
@@steveSestric Pretty much. Thanks
Charlie, question for you. I always consider the throat a final choke point so I will measure it at different areas looking for the smallest measurement.
For example, on an E7 with the 1.78 intake valve I will usually get a 1.51” measurement side to side (3 to 9 o’clock and same as the bowl width), and maybe a 1.55” at the noon to 6 o’clock position, a 1.57” at the 2 to 8 o’clock position and a 1.56” at the 4 to 10 o’clock position.
I’ll average the four of them and use that number as the throat size.
Is this similar to how you do it?
Smallest area at the valve seat is called a Bernulli port. Most castings can not do that with maximized valve sizes.
@ thanks for the reply man. I see your an early riser too!
I measure the throat size the same way. Thanks
@65mustang393 Sleep is overated!!!
@ man… I have the goofiest sleep schedule. Totally random and I am very envious of people like my wife who can lay down, be out in 5 minutes and sleep for 6 to 8 straight hours and wake up totally refreshed. My sleep is more like 3 hrs now, 1.5 hrs at noon, etc. Makes for a difficult life at times lol.
Smaller valves means high RPM!
1.60 and 1.94 valves sound like 1958-'60 big block mopar valve sizes. So maybe for a 332-352 FE? Or 360 truck motor.
@@paintnamer6403 Did the Fe have a c6fe cylinder head? They look like small block flow numbers. Thanks
Sorry more FE . The truck 360 had about the best looking forged crank out of the Detroit Big 3 I ever worked on . Beautiful radii rods and mains , and just a clean forging .
Nice tip on Charles spreadsheet!
Also, you can “skootch” the guides apart a bit and fit 2.02 & 1.6. A friend of mine did it on a set decades ago.
UT tester is your friend, there’s spots that are easy to get to thin!
@@Alaska_Engineer No doubt!!!! Lots and lots of testing! Thanks
You talking about the short side being thin. It made the think, that being a new casting. I wonder 🤔, could the thin area be heated with a torch or induction heater (probably both) and flux the inside, slip some silica bronze, or possibly nickel. To add some thickness to the area. It would be cool if a powdered bronze or nickel could be poured into the water jacket with flux either in it like solder(flux core!) Heat the area until the metal melted!! The flux assuring it sticks after it melts. Do you know if anyone has done this BEFORE Breaking THRU TO THE WATER JACKET? Adding about .045" to .060" thickness to the thin areas. Can save the day when porting. And grinding away , all the sudden tfe sound changes, the color of the metal changes. It could be an interesting experience! You know exactly? Here to STOP! 🤔.
@@jamest.5001 I can't imagine how expensive these are. I am not welding on them!!! Thanks
@@servediocylinderheads Was at the Columbus, OH all Ford swap meet back in the 90's when aftermarket heads started to hit big. Guy sold an entire pallet of these C6FE heads cheap, as they were 'outdated'. I think he was wanting $75/head and after he sold a few, someone bought the entire rest of the pallet. I remember the exhausts being huge, and assumed the intakes would be a lot better than they are. Guess they just 'ported' the mold without adding adding any more metal. lol
@@n2omike Added metal in the wrong places!!!