Please help me I was thrown in here about 3 days ago I've been unconscious for that time he didn't take my phone please try to save me and the other kid's in here
I want to at least sound reduce my room as much as possible so I can play music and stuff without bothering my parents. My house has such thin walls to the point that you can hear a cricket fart in the other room
Leaving a comment because it’s great you’re being honest with “leaving a comment does help my channel” instead of that standard TH-camr bullshit “leave a comment below letting me know what you think” as if any content creator realistically reads every comment on their channel. Thank you for keeping it real.
I have a number of thoughts in response to this video. I apologize for not ordering them better, but this is powerful info I would like other viewers to have. “Soundproofing” is a colloquial term. “Isolation” is the technical term, as stopping all sound entirely is impractical/impossible. Most performance specs for a system or a commercial product (such as a door) are given as a Sound Transmission Coefficient (STC) value in the USA. This standard is really focused around voice transmission, so it is not valuable in determining effectiveness for bass transmission loss. It also does not imply mechanical isolation, which is necessary for isolating structure-borne transmission such as foot traffic on a floor above. For isolation, physics demands mass, decoupling, and damping. Low frequency sound has dramatically more energy than other sound of equivalent Sound Pressure Level. Thus, a loud bass guitar amplifier requires much more mass and decoupling than other situations. Many recording studio live rooms employ a double concrete-block wall with an air gap in between for this reason. While mass loaded vinyl is not cheap (especially if shipping is involved! 😳), a wall system using it can be very effective, even performing well at low frequencies. This is a good system for saving space and for avoiding paying a structural engineer. Otherwise, a “double-stud-wall with resilient channel (RC) and 2 layers of drywall on the outer faces and both wall cavities filled with insulation” is excellent for most circumstances. If I recall correctly, it achieves an impressive STC of 65 using cheap, conventional, low-mass pink fiberglass insulation. Double-walls improve decoupling between the wall surfaces, thus dramatically improving isolation. An air gap is required between the walls, even if it is only an inch. And it is important that drywall/sheeting only be applied to the two outward-facing surfaces of a double-wall system. Insulation is necessary within the walls to provide the damping. And there are various potentially superior options for it besides the pink fluffy stuff, including rockwool and Ultratouch denim. Addressing the topic of isolation without explicitly mentioning the concept of “flanking paths” is a little unfortunate, but it is a short video. The emphasis on sealing the air gaps at the beginning touches on this, and it is an excellent point, most especially for those without budget to do more. Just keep in mind: a totally sealed room cannot get fresh air/oxygen nor remove mustiness without an hvac supply AND return to the room. Something to consider if you’re in a fully-sealed, non-ventilated room for a longer periods of time. Using the putty on ceiling light fixture receptacles and other wall-surface penetrations, in addition to light switches and outlets, should definitely be employed for the best results in open-wall treatment situations. For closed-wall situations, one might add foam air-gaskets marketed for stopping drafts in addition to caulking electrical box edges with an acoustical sealant. Caulking the edges does not fill the holes in the back of the boxes where wires enter, but the additional foam seal should help slightly. However, do not use caulk inside the box: it’s against code, potentially creating a fire hazard. Speaking of which, there are fire-blocking spray-foams and caulks that CAN be used for wire/pipe penetrations within wall cavities (through sill plates and other framing members) to minimize flanking paths without creating fire hazards. This option is a relatively minor optimization for open-wall construction. In some situations, flanking noise will primarily come through ductwork. Isolation of HVAC systems is a very complex topic, typically requiring a lot of space for baffle boxes, relatively expensive commercially available in-line duct-baffle devices (think: a car muffler), or an entirely separate HVAC system to achieve the best results. Though simply replacing a section of rigid ductwork supply and return for a room with a section of flexible insulated duct that takes a S-shaped path can help both reduce mechanical transmission of hvac noise and improve isolation from other branches of the hvac system (other rooms). This works because sound looses energy when it changes direction. But radical direction changes can create additional noise from turbulence, and can also dramatically reduce air-flow. So take care to not make the curves too radical, and consider additionally isolating the cavity containing the flexible ductwork if taking this low-cost approach. Isolating curtains are indeed painfully expensive, and probably best employed as suggested in the video for covering hollow or thin-paneled doors. But an automatic door bottom (look it up!) in conjunction with neoprene weatherstripping around the top and sides of the jamb are also important for truly effective door isolation. Doors and windows are typically a weak link in an isolation approach, so properly sealing (and quite often also replacing) them is important for acceptable results. Another cheaper and lower-tech option for sealing the crack under a door is installing a threshold with a neoprene gasket that abuts the door when closed. (Thresholds should also be caulked to the floor with acoustical sealant.) The downside of this option is having an edge that can cause a person to trip and can be difficult for wheelchairs, dollies, and other things to roll over. To check whether the door cracks are properly sealed, simply have someone shine a bright flashlight around the edges with the isolated room totally dark, and see if light leaks. If it does, improve the gasket positioning. The video’s author refers to 2 Green Glue products. The first is a sealant. OSI and others also make this sort of sealant products. But don’t get confused and order the wrong stuff: the stuff for between two layers of drywall will not work as a sealant and would create a TREMENDOUS mess if you tried! That “drywall panel” Green Glue is best for improving isolation of an existing space without removing drywall. It actually improves in effectiveness over a period of a couple months as it fully cures. Also, the video example shows too much product applied: it should be more like before the cut where the person reloads the caulk gun. This product it is quite a bit less effective than RC coupled with insulation within the wall. But is doesn’t reduce the usable space of the room as much, and is much harder to mess up than the resilient channel. (He alludes to this in the video, but I will state it explicitly: improper installation of RC will basically nullify its beneficial effect.) Most importantly, a green glue system goes up fast, not requiring demolition! Additionally, I suggest you don’t worry about using a “different” thickness drywall as suggested in the video: just go for 5/8” every time. (There is a theoretical benefit to having differing masses of elements in a 2-leaf system. But this efficiency optimization is completely trumped by “mo-mass, mo-better” in practice. Differing thicknesses of layers is most appropriate for maximizing value from expensive materials, such as large plate-glass window sections.) The “soundproofing paint” is probably only appropriate for desperate renters. Do not expect a substantial benefit from this sort of product! He has a video on one of these products, so look there and maybe also elsewhere before choosing this option. I am unfamiliar with its performance, but strongly expect it will basically only help make neighboring voices less intelligible if they are otherwise very clear. This short video omits performance data for the various systems described, which is very important info! It is just an overview video, of course, so check out their main page and other sources. Again, some of these systems are MUCH more effective than others! Isolation is typically expensive and time consuming, so you ought to have data on how well your approach will work before committing to it. SOOO many people try and fail at it (don’t dwell on it-you’re not alone!) because they do not do enough research or they skip annoying details. (One such detail: when installing dual drywall layers, caulk the edges of the first layer with acoustical sealant BEFORE installing the second! Then caulk that one too, of course.) By the time you are looking at isolation, you’re probably either very frustrated, or your field of work (i.e.- music recording) requires it. I implore you to take heed, and avoid the double-frustration of having to re-do a failed isolation attempt. Do your research; don’t dive into your project until you‘re confident in your strategy and have budgeted for everything. To the video’s author: I’m sincerely sorry for putting such a “know-it-all” comment on your video. I am obviously passionate about the subject. But I will definitely also check out more of your resources. I’m always glad to see people share knowledge about acoustics! Thank you for doing so! 👍 To everyone else: Wow-you made it through all that! You get a gold star! 😂 And good luck with your project! Take your time researching, planning and budgeting. It’s going to turn out great. 👍.
Soundproof Guide thanks! Also, I should really correct myself: STC is Sound Transmission Class, not Coefficient. Had to look it up when you used the correct term.
Thanks, watching more recent videos, you've stated your more is it worth it for the money assessments. The green glue compound, not sealant was not worth the money. And sound proofing paint was not worth doing.
I have an adjoining wall to another apartment that I have somewhat soundproofed by screwing 2 queen sized, 3 inch egg-crate mattress toppers to the wall, and then covered them with noise reducing curtains so it looks like one giant window covering. I would post a picture if I could, but it works very well in an apartment situation, and it looks stunning design-wise.
@@rufus5208 you should upload a video of your setup and how u did it. I live in a mobile home and my problem area my bedroom that has a wall with a window. I'd like to maybe get some noise reduction from the window. Wall if possible. Noisy neighbors. Wall thickness is let's say.... Im guessing by the depth of the window compared to the wall it's attached to and say about..... 3 to 4 inch wall
Hello everyone, so I had hoped that the two mattress toppers would be enough to stop the bass sounds from my neighbor, but it didn't. And the other thing I wanted to mention is that you also have to not only screw the toppers on to the wall but you also have to tape them as you go with masking tape across because they will kind of sag a little bit from the weight. It's literally like trying to nail jelly to a wall. I ended up putting another layer of 8x4 drywall panels in front of the egg crate mattress toppers like an extra extended wall, and used L-brackets to attach them to the sides of the walls, and then I covered that again with the soundproofing curtains on a long kaleidoscope curtain rod. I actually hung some moving blankets behind the soundproofing curtains also to dull out some of the noise even more. My situation with my neighbor got completely out of hand and I had to get management involved to make him stop playing his bass so loud so I haven't had a problem since then because he turned the music down. But the drywall panels actually did subdue the music more than anything. And I'm sure there's a benefit to layering soundproofing blankets and egg grates of any kind with drywall because the space between the two drywall panels traps vibrations and sounds coming through the walls. But in an apartment situation you will always have sound coming through the ceilings too, so you would literally have to have a completely closed in room within a room to be able to completely block out sound. The extra drywall panels worked so well that I put pieces in a window that gets a lot of traffic noise and that has helped substantially, and I also used another big piece on a wall that I hear sounds from neighbors outside in another area and that has helped greatly there too. You can go to Home Depot to get drywall panels and cut them to any size you want. The 5/8 inch fire code drywall is the densest sheetrock with the most sound absorption. If your issues are more high frequency sounds like talking or TVs in an adjoining room, adding an extra layer of drywall over some egg crate soundproofing up against the adjoining wall will dull those high frequency sounds. But for low frequency bass sounds it is extremely difficult to block those frequencies. I will say this; as a result of putting up all that soundproofing I cannot hear my neighbor at all like talking or his TV or anything since he's turned the bass down. I hear absolutely no sounds whatsoever, so that is a bonus. All of that hard work wasn't for nothing. And yes, I'll probably send a picture here soon to the email above when I get some time.
WOW, I am so glad I finally found this Channel. I have missed so much sleep because of SUPER Noisy Neighbors. I am going to Try ALL the Blanket Ideas because I can't alter the Rental in any way. Continued Success to YOU.
Any special advice in Soundproofing a room with door that's directly next to my parents bedroom so that I can watch films and play games (or hang out with my friends after covid) without them waking up? I live in Germany so we have brick walls.
yes the denser the better if you can afford it to cover the place in lead. what you want to do it use 2-inch battens (timber) and use drywall over them so it will look like this block wall / batten/rockwool/drywall/paint for a nice finish that 2 or more inches will make a significant difference think of someone mowing the grass and how annoying it can be think of that sound it will be like listening to a Bea buzzing around you, you will still ear it but thats the difference it will cut the sound if you ear any sound it will be coming through the windows or some other place e.g wooden floor or celing
I have a thirty two year old amazon parrot that I love. I want to move into a condo...how about the black roll of soundproofing glued to the top of the wall and then a book case on top of it instead of a second drywall layer?
Are 2 inch thick acoustic panels effective for dry wall? I even saw 4 inch thick panels. I live in an apartment and the walls are so thin. I'm putting finishing touches on my studio and want it 100% sound proof. Thanks
Would this work on a 1930's built flat? My neighbours play their music like they are in a night club. I'm in the UK by the way. So products maybe different.
I am looking to prevent sounds from escaping my bedroom, I practice guitar in my room since I don't have a spare room at the moment to set up a music room I don't really care if I hear stuff from outside, I just don't want the rest of the house to hear me while I struggle with my guitar. What would be a good option for that that is cost effective?
Hey my sons room is right next to mine was wondering if you could help me with some tips on what's the best way to go about making the noise coming from his from room quieter? Ty
Thank you!!! I work from home and these neighbors have no regards for others!!! I work with sensitive information. I will be trying one of these methods!
apart from the blankets solution, what would you recommend for preventing sound coming through walls without modifying the wall. Like when one is renting a room and wants to prevent external noise entering through walls.
Use the right eggcrate or order the cheap squares of foam you can do a wall for 50-100$ works great just doesnt look amazing unless your a streamer or such
Question: we have an unfinished basement ceiling. My idea is to cut stops of used but clean enough carpet strips between the beams and studs, use the acoustical glue and staples. The goal is zero cost and re-using materials. What do you think?
I live in a nosey hood on peer and beam in Houston area was thinking of hanging 5/8 sheet rock from the crawlspace floor joist but read VML was better . After further searching found this stuff on amazon say it has 70db stc called FloorMuffler Ultra Seal Underlayment 300SF and much cheaper should be easier to install too . its not made for this purpose but will it work ? Is it better than 5/8 sheetrock or VML .I also thought of putting 30 lb felt on the very bottom between floor joist and the FloorMuffler Ultra Seal Underlayment 300SF . Another potential problem although I treated the ground and joist with Taurus SC and the wood with bora-care .
Hi, I am going to make a sound isolation booth of 4X4 feet size with 6 feet height. My plan is to use 2 12mm plywood sheets and place an EPE foam sheet of 2 inches in between them. Then on the inside of the booth place pu foam for sound diffusion. Also I will fill all the gaps with silicon. Do you think it will block out the noise from outside as my room is next to a road? Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you.
Thanks for the information. I have two bedrooms side by side and you can easily hear people talking in the next room. I don't really want to add more layers and re plaster. Can I drill small holes in the wall and fill the stud with expanding foam?
That will not work in blocking any noise whatsoever. Expanding foam is great for insulation towards heat and cold but will do nothing for soundproofing a wall. I actually answer this a similar question in the video coming out tomorrow! Make sure to check it out and lave me a comment on it! Best of luck Gee!
Very helpful. I just don't know though how much soundproofing i need. I want to do it right the first time and block my neighbor's hot tub humming/low frequency from my bedroom exterior wall. It's driving me crazy!!! The hot tub is about 50ft from my house (can you believe that?) and just resonates in my exterior wall. Can you guide me please? Tks
Hello can you help. I'm in a house where all the sounds from inside the house coming into the bedroom Should I sound proof/reduce the walls inside the bedroom or on the outside of those walls(dining area and entry way) I just want it quiet when I'm in my bedroom trying to get a moment peace I hope you reply Thank you
I’m trying to determine an approximate cost for supplies to sound proof two 10 ft walls, using 5/8 in drywall, green glue noise proofing compound, and mass loaded vinyl. Any information greatly appreciated, thanks!
I'm confused. So for an existing wall (blocking outside noise) you can add the MLV directly to the existing drywall then add more drywall directly to the MLV?
Finishing my basement and need some advise .... I am finishing a rec area which i have in my basement which i am now converting to a media room (not a dedicated theater but more like a lounge area where i will have a projector/screen and a descent sound system). 2 sides of the room are against the foundation of the basement and have solid concrete. One of the walls is against the utility area which is where i have the water heater. The 4th wall is a shared wall with renters who stay in another part of my basement. So here is my question -> Should i use green glue for all the 4 walls and the ceiling or should i only consider applying. that on the wall which is shared with the folks who rent my basement? I do intend doing a double dry wall on the wall which is shared with the renters as well as the ceiling but am confused about how generous i should be with using Green glue. I also intend using roxul safe and sound on the shared wall as well as the wall against the utility room and the ceiling. Please advise.
If I put some cheep foam or egg carton better the houses of the ceiling and paneling or ceiling tile, will that decress noise to the upper floor? Thanks
man, I used green glue sealant for a set of glass doors in an upstairs loft, and this stuff is REALLY messy and hard to work with. It's too runny, and gets everywhere. It's almost impossible to do a clean job caulking overhead, and be prepared to have a significant portion of the green glue on your floor and everywhere else except for where you wanted it. I would never use this stuff anywhere near a carpet or rug. And once it dries, it has the consistency of chewing gum.
Do you think that this would work just as well: DIY my own Rock wool by pouring self leveler or swiping slurry concrete over discarded shag carpet pieces. When dry hang the 16” strips on the vertical studs as an interior layer…
We have a new house in NZ and do not want to break anything down, I was wondering if liquid insulation foam can be injected into the area's in between the studs between my lounge and master bedroom?
I have a chimney breast with an air vent in it. Should I sound proof the chimney breast and does the vent let vibrations and noise through? Any advice would be much appreciated 😁
Thank you so much, I just loved the idea of using bookshelves, may be I'll use it on one wall at least. Could you give me an advice, how to fill considerable gaps (about 10 centimeters) between the floor and the walls (it's under the floor even) and also between the walls and the ceiling, the old walls are made of plaster and I can hear the neighbors from the side very well, but the worst of all is impact noise (the structure vibration when they run or drop something). So I'm thinking about shoving into thses gaps some soundproof material but I don't know whether it sould be some bulk material, plaster, some panels or all of these things. Finances are very limited and I'm a complete beginner in all these things. Could you just point out the sequence and the main principles of this. I guess I won't be able to demolish the old wall to build a new one
I want to do voice recording so by putting fiber glass inside then using vinyl to cover it up along with drywall then sound absorption wouldn't be good right?
Hi, I live in a apartment on first floor and below is ground floor having parking which also have water storage tanks going down till the basement where there is water pumping room that pumps water to overhead tank on 15 th floor. When the submersible motors (4 in number) are switched on there is very irritating noise ringing noise comes into my apartment through the concrete walls which are common walsl going down till basement. The ringing noise is audible in entire apartment. Can u suggest a cost effective solution. My apartment walls are painted.
What about soundproofing airvents. My room and the living room have vents that are connected to each other. As in, my room goes out at the living room.
Do you have any advice on sound proofing a room to keep the noise from a loud motorcycle out? As well how to build a sound booth where a loud HD motorcycle is close & running often? Is it possible to keep that noise on the outside of the room/booth
Can you pls tell till what extent noise can be blocked? Like television in the very next room, children playing (wildly) above the roof and fighting in the next room?
For stuff like that, just wear headphones. Headphones is honestly your easiest, cheapest and fastest solution. You want to actually do stuff to your walls? Money. Money. Money!
I'm gonna try some of these solutions. There's a pump of some kind in my apartment block that pulses randomly the entire day and night. It's not an issue when I'm awake but it's just terrible when I'm sleeping. Wish me luck. 🤞🏿
@UCudrSfGIapGfJ9P4OUctekQ What a loser hahaha obeying parents?? Next thing ull say is do your homework. All seriousness tho teenagers just need privacy and nosy parents tend to not like that.
My next door neighbor at my business moved in a 30 ton punch and laser cutter 3 years ago. I can't take it no more. I'm going with Quietrock then green glue on 5/8 drywall on top of that.
laudarevsonhunt that’s unfortunate. Hopefully that’s a tax write off. I think the best solution for your situation is to build a floating wall in front of that wall where the noises coming from... let me know what strategies you used to solve the problem, I have really noisy neighbors that have no respect for their fellow neighbors, I have PTSD can’t deal with noise. Terrible. Hope things work out. 👍👍
Im tired of my guests getting suspicious over the screams coming from my basement, im running out of excuses. Thank you, this video helped!
Lol
Please help me I was thrown in here about 3 days ago I've been unconscious for that time he didn't take my phone please try to save me and the other kid's in here
@@TomsterTheToaster how can we help
@@newbiespkr2154 call the pi- I mean Police I'm desperate my phone is going to die gulp oh shoot he's coming ahhhh
Hey I provide body cleaner service contact me if you need my help getting rid of bodies
I want this as my closet so I can sing along to songs without people thinking there’s a screaming cat In the house
😂
😂😂😂
Haha
@@soundproofguide which are the best soundproofing blankets. I stay in a duplex
House with a jointing wall
Same
1:03 to start the video
Bump
@@kurtv7638 yea while youre at it go ahead and put it on 2x speed this dude really try harding to strech the vid.....
thanks
Not the hero youtube deserves but the one it needs
@@berto4359 was gonna comment this but here we are
I’m not soundproofing my house cause of noisy neighbors, I am the noisy neighbor
Lol
you asshole
ye, the best and the cheapest way to soundproof the wall is to make your neighbors soundproof it
Me too man, me too 😏
loooooooooooooool
3:30 It took me a second to see that I was watching a factory demo. He was applying that Green Glue like a man who didn't have to pay for it.
😂😂😂
I want to at least sound reduce my room as much as possible so I can play music and stuff without bothering my parents. My house has such thin walls to the point that you can hear a cricket fart in the other room
Same
Same
Same 😂😂 they can hear my bird sneeze
You can't wear headphones? lol That is honestly your cheapest, easiest and fastest way.
@@Kevin-sm8pn how did you think this comment was going to help at all….
Leaving a comment because it’s great you’re being honest with “leaving a comment does help my channel” instead of that standard TH-camr bullshit “leave a comment below letting me know what you think” as if any content creator realistically reads every comment on their channel. Thank you for keeping it real.
We certainly can’t read every comment, but I did see this one! Thank You 😊
I'm not shore if it's worth munching it or not but remember eggcrate phome for hospital beds not shore but u could try that!
Came for the sound proofing, left with a library. Slick. Education is important.
I knew about most of these but not the bookshelves! Genius! Plus I can buy more books!
I have a number of thoughts in response to this video. I apologize for not ordering them better, but this is powerful info I would like other viewers to have.
“Soundproofing” is a colloquial term. “Isolation” is the technical term, as stopping all sound entirely is impractical/impossible. Most performance specs for a system or a commercial product (such as a door) are given as a Sound Transmission Coefficient (STC) value in the USA. This standard is really focused around voice transmission, so it is not valuable in determining effectiveness for bass transmission loss. It also does not imply mechanical isolation, which is necessary for isolating structure-borne transmission such as foot traffic on a floor above.
For isolation, physics demands mass, decoupling, and damping. Low frequency sound has dramatically more energy than other sound of equivalent Sound Pressure Level. Thus, a loud bass guitar amplifier requires much more mass and decoupling than other situations. Many recording studio live rooms employ a double concrete-block wall with an air gap in between for this reason.
While mass loaded vinyl is not cheap (especially if shipping is involved! 😳), a wall system using it can be very effective, even performing well at low frequencies. This is a good system for saving space and for avoiding paying a structural engineer.
Otherwise, a “double-stud-wall with resilient channel (RC) and 2 layers of drywall on the outer faces and both wall cavities filled with insulation” is excellent for most circumstances. If I recall correctly, it achieves an impressive STC of 65 using cheap, conventional, low-mass pink fiberglass insulation.
Double-walls improve decoupling between the wall surfaces, thus dramatically improving isolation. An air gap is required between the walls, even if it is only an inch. And it is important that drywall/sheeting only be applied to the two outward-facing surfaces of a double-wall system. Insulation is necessary within the walls to provide the damping. And there are various potentially superior options for it besides the pink fluffy stuff, including rockwool and Ultratouch denim.
Addressing the topic of isolation without explicitly mentioning the concept of “flanking paths” is a little unfortunate, but it is a short video. The emphasis on sealing the air gaps at the beginning touches on this, and it is an excellent point, most especially for those without budget to do more. Just keep in mind: a totally sealed room cannot get fresh air/oxygen nor remove mustiness without an hvac supply AND return to the room. Something to consider if you’re in a fully-sealed, non-ventilated room for a longer periods of time.
Using the putty on ceiling light fixture receptacles and other wall-surface penetrations, in addition to light switches and outlets, should definitely be employed for the best results in open-wall treatment situations. For closed-wall situations, one might add foam air-gaskets marketed for stopping drafts in addition to caulking electrical box edges with an acoustical sealant. Caulking the edges does not fill the holes in the back of the boxes where wires enter, but the additional foam seal should help slightly. However, do not use caulk inside the box: it’s against code, potentially creating a fire hazard. Speaking of which, there are fire-blocking spray-foams and caulks that CAN be used for wire/pipe penetrations within wall cavities (through sill plates and other framing members) to minimize flanking paths without creating fire hazards. This option is a relatively minor optimization for open-wall construction.
In some situations, flanking noise will primarily come through ductwork. Isolation of HVAC systems is a very complex topic, typically requiring a lot of space for baffle boxes, relatively expensive commercially available in-line duct-baffle devices (think: a car muffler), or an entirely separate HVAC system to achieve the best results. Though simply replacing a section of rigid ductwork supply and return for a room with a section of flexible insulated duct that takes a S-shaped path can help both reduce mechanical transmission of hvac noise and improve isolation from other branches of the hvac system (other rooms). This works because sound looses energy when it changes direction. But radical direction changes can create additional noise from turbulence, and can also dramatically reduce air-flow. So take care to not make the curves too radical, and consider additionally isolating the cavity containing the flexible ductwork if taking this low-cost approach.
Isolating curtains are indeed painfully expensive, and probably best employed as suggested in the video for covering hollow or thin-paneled doors. But an automatic door bottom (look it up!) in conjunction with neoprene weatherstripping around the top and sides of the jamb are also important for truly effective door isolation. Doors and windows are typically a weak link in an isolation approach, so properly sealing (and quite often also replacing) them is important for acceptable results. Another cheaper and lower-tech option for sealing the crack under a door is installing a threshold with a neoprene gasket that abuts the door when closed. (Thresholds should also be caulked to the floor with acoustical sealant.) The downside of this option is having an edge that can cause a person to trip and can be difficult for wheelchairs, dollies, and other things to roll over. To check whether the door cracks are properly sealed, simply have someone shine a bright flashlight around the edges with the isolated room totally dark, and see if light leaks. If it does, improve the gasket positioning.
The video’s author refers to 2 Green Glue products. The first is a sealant. OSI and others also make this sort of sealant products. But don’t get confused and order the wrong stuff: the stuff for between two layers of drywall will not work as a sealant and would create a TREMENDOUS mess if you tried!
That “drywall panel” Green Glue is best for improving isolation of an existing space without removing drywall. It actually improves in effectiveness over a period of a couple months as it fully cures. Also, the video example shows too much product applied: it should be more like before the cut where the person reloads the caulk gun. This product it is quite a bit less effective than RC coupled with insulation within the wall. But is doesn’t reduce the usable space of the room as much, and is much harder to mess up than the resilient channel. (He alludes to this in the video, but I will state it explicitly: improper installation of RC will basically nullify its beneficial effect.) Most importantly, a green glue system goes up fast, not requiring demolition!
Additionally, I suggest you don’t worry about using a “different” thickness drywall as suggested in the video: just go for 5/8” every time. (There is a theoretical benefit to having differing masses of elements in a 2-leaf system. But this efficiency optimization is completely trumped by “mo-mass, mo-better” in practice. Differing thicknesses of layers is most appropriate for maximizing value from expensive materials, such as large plate-glass window sections.)
The “soundproofing paint” is probably only appropriate for desperate renters. Do not expect a substantial benefit from this sort of product! He has a video on one of these products, so look there and maybe also elsewhere before choosing this option. I am unfamiliar with its performance, but strongly expect it will basically only help make neighboring voices less intelligible if they are otherwise very clear.
This short video omits performance data for the various systems described, which is very important info! It is just an overview video, of course, so check out their main page and other sources. Again, some of these systems are MUCH more effective than others! Isolation is typically expensive and time consuming, so you ought to have data on how well your approach will work before committing to it. SOOO many people try and fail at it (don’t dwell on it-you’re not alone!) because they do not do enough research or they skip annoying details. (One such detail: when installing dual drywall layers, caulk the edges of the first layer with acoustical sealant BEFORE installing the second! Then caulk that one too, of course.) By the time you are looking at isolation, you’re probably either very frustrated, or your field of work (i.e.- music recording) requires it. I implore you to take heed, and avoid the double-frustration of having to re-do a failed isolation attempt. Do your research; don’t dive into your project until you‘re confident in your strategy and have budgeted for everything.
To the video’s author: I’m sincerely sorry for putting such a “know-it-all” comment on your video. I am obviously passionate about the subject. But I will definitely also check out more of your resources. I’m always glad to see people share knowledge about acoustics! Thank you for doing so! 👍
To everyone else: Wow-you made it through all that! You get a gold star! 😂 And good luck with your project! Take your time researching, planning and budgeting. It’s going to turn out great. 👍.
Thank you very much for your comment. I love hearing different points of view!
It’s all about helping one another! 🙂
Soundproof Guide thanks!
Also, I should really correct myself: STC is Sound Transmission Class, not Coefficient. Had to look it up when you used the correct term.
ok, nobody actually read all that tho
@@john5554 i did, man, was it helpfull
TnQ for the passionate nd helpful explanation.
NEW UPDATED VIDEO - SOUNDPROOF A WALL - th-cam.com/video/UoVIw0IlT2E/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, watching more recent videos, you've stated your more is it worth it for the money assessments. The green glue compound, not sealant was not worth the money. And sound proofing paint was not worth doing.
6:12 I'd like to know what she's on
ReddoFreddo 😂
Shrooms for sure...or sniffing that magic paint.
Must be premium product since she clearly doesn't care putting her head against wet paint..😬
must be LSD XD
Shes doing the naughty moves ur trying to block away from ur neighbours
I have an adjoining wall to another apartment that I have somewhat soundproofed by screwing 2 queen sized, 3 inch egg-crate mattress toppers to the wall, and then covered them with noise reducing curtains so it looks like one giant window covering. I would post a picture if I could, but it works very well in an apartment situation, and it looks stunning design-wise.
Would you mind sending a picture to info@soundproofguide.com Thanks!
Where can I buy that egg crate material and or is there a site I can refer to how to do what u did??
How thick is it?
@@rufus5208 you should upload a video of your setup and how u did it. I live in a mobile home and my problem area my bedroom that has a wall with a window. I'd like to maybe get some noise reduction from the window. Wall if possible. Noisy neighbors. Wall thickness is let's say.... Im guessing by the depth of the window compared to the wall it's attached to and say about..... 3 to 4 inch wall
Hello everyone, so I had hoped that the two mattress toppers would be enough to stop the bass sounds from my neighbor, but it didn't. And the other thing I wanted to mention is that you also have to not only screw the toppers on to the wall but you also have to tape them as you go with masking tape across because they will kind of sag a little bit from the weight. It's literally like trying to nail jelly to a wall.
I ended up putting another layer of 8x4 drywall panels in front of the egg crate mattress toppers like an extra extended wall, and used L-brackets to attach them to the sides of the walls, and then I covered that again with the soundproofing curtains on a long kaleidoscope curtain rod. I actually hung some moving blankets behind the soundproofing curtains also to dull out some of the noise even more. My situation with my neighbor got completely out of hand and I had to get management involved to make him stop playing his bass so loud so I haven't had a problem since then because he turned the music down. But the drywall panels actually did subdue the music more than anything. And I'm sure there's a benefit to layering soundproofing blankets and egg grates of any kind with drywall because the space between the two drywall panels traps vibrations and sounds coming through the walls. But in an apartment situation you will always have sound coming through the ceilings too, so you would literally have to have a completely closed in room within a room to be able to completely block out sound.
The extra drywall panels worked so well that I put pieces in a window that gets a lot of traffic noise and that has helped substantially, and I also used another big piece on a wall that I hear sounds from neighbors outside in another area and that has helped greatly there too. You can go to Home Depot to get drywall panels and cut them to any size you want. The 5/8 inch fire code drywall is the densest sheetrock with the most sound absorption.
If your issues are more high frequency sounds like talking or TVs in an adjoining room, adding an extra layer of drywall over some egg crate soundproofing up against the adjoining wall will dull those high frequency sounds. But for low frequency bass sounds it is extremely difficult to block those frequencies. I will say this; as a result of putting up all that soundproofing I cannot hear my neighbor at all like talking or his TV or anything since he's turned the bass down. I hear absolutely no sounds whatsoever, so that is a bonus. All of that hard work wasn't for nothing. And yes, I'll probably send a picture here soon to the email above when I get some time.
Turned into a home renovation project. Thanks man
I love this. I’m going to have a tiny house in spring time, so this is a good vid to take notes on for when putting walls up 👍🏻
WOW, I am so glad I finally found this Channel. I have missed so much sleep because of SUPER Noisy Neighbors. I am going to Try ALL the Blanket Ideas because I can't alter the Rental in any way.
Continued Success to YOU.
Thank you ! You're awesome! 😊
Any special advice in Soundproofing a room with door that's directly next to my parents bedroom so that I can watch films and play games (or hang out with my friends after covid) without them waking up?
I live in Germany so we have brick walls.
I really like the bookshelf idea. Thanks!
Thanks for the great information! Would there be any difference in soundproofing a cement block wall that’s already sheet rocked?
yes the denser the better if you can afford it to cover the place in lead. what you want to do it use 2-inch battens (timber) and use drywall over them so it will look like this block wall / batten/rockwool/drywall/paint for a nice finish that 2 or more inches will make a significant difference think of someone mowing the grass and how annoying it can be think of that sound it will be like listening to a Bea buzzing around you, you will still ear it but thats the difference it will cut the sound if you ear any sound it will be coming through the windows or some other place e.g wooden floor or celing
I have an exterior wall with an AC outside of it. What’s my best option to handle deadening that noise?
I have a thirty two year old amazon parrot that I love. I want to move into a condo...how about the black roll of soundproofing glued to the top of the wall and then a book case on top of it instead of a second drywall layer?
Are 2 inch thick acoustic panels effective for dry wall? I even saw 4 inch thick panels. I live in an apartment and the walls are so thin. I'm putting finishing touches on my studio and want it 100% sound proof. Thanks
Thank you for this video. Very useful.
Would this work on a 1930's built flat? My neighbours play their music like they are in a night club. I'm in the UK by the way. So products maybe different.
Facing the same problem here
Every social housing place has been designed badly, we all need help !!!
I am looking to prevent sounds from escaping my bedroom, I practice guitar in my room since I don't have a spare room at the moment to set up a music room I don't really care if I hear stuff from outside, I just don't want the rest of the house to hear me while I struggle with my guitar. What would be a good option for that that is cost effective?
Kill everyone.
Hey my sons room is right next to mine was wondering if you could help me with some tips on what's the best way to go about making the noise coming from his from room quieter? Ty
Thank you!!! I work from home and these neighbors have no regards for others!!! I work with sensitive information. I will be trying one of these methods!
I'm doing an architecture studio project and needed some basic sound proofing tips under a budget, THANKS!!!
very works for my studio room.
Thank you, very well explained and soothing manner in voice.I will follow your recommendations they are exactly what I was looking for.
apart from the blankets solution, what would you recommend for preventing sound coming through walls without modifying the wall. Like when one is renting a room and wants to prevent external noise entering through walls.
Killing your neighbors.
Use the right eggcrate or order the cheap squares of foam you can do a wall for 50-100$ works great just doesnt look amazing unless your a streamer or such
@@Kevin-sm8pn totally considering your suggestion.
1:35 those plug sockets look so....
shocked 👀
Stfu
As you speak my neighbor it's singing attention Charlie puth
How would ya soundproof ceiling? I have droptile and am trying to keep the children working in the basement from being heard by guest.
Question: we have an unfinished basement ceiling. My idea is to cut stops of used but clean enough carpet strips between the beams and studs, use the acoustical glue and staples. The goal is zero cost and re-using materials. What do you think?
I live in a nosey hood on peer and beam in Houston area was thinking of hanging 5/8 sheet rock from the crawlspace floor joist but read VML was better . After further searching found this stuff on amazon say it has 70db stc called FloorMuffler Ultra Seal Underlayment 300SF and much cheaper should be easier to install too . its not made for this purpose but will it work ? Is it better than 5/8 sheetrock or VML .I also thought of putting 30 lb felt on the very bottom between floor joist and the FloorMuffler Ultra Seal Underlayment 300SF . Another potential problem although I treated the ground and joist with Taurus SC and the wood with bora-care .
I’m moving to a new apartment complex and don’t want to have anyone hear me sing (since I don’t know how to lol) nice vid
Bless
Thank you... very good video but I'm building a new room so what should I do except these
Among this 7 tips .. Whic is best for soundproof room from the outaide noise🥺🥺
Hi, I am going to make a sound isolation booth of 4X4 feet size with 6 feet height. My plan is to use 2 12mm plywood sheets and place an EPE foam sheet of 2 inches in between them. Then on the inside of the booth place pu foam for sound diffusion. Also I will fill all the gaps with silicon. Do you think it will block out the noise from outside as my room is next to a road? Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you.
Loving the videocopilot effects 👌
Thanks for the information. I have two bedrooms side by side and you can easily hear people talking in the next room. I don't really want to add more layers and re plaster. Can I drill small holes in the wall and fill the stud with expanding foam?
That will not work in blocking any noise whatsoever. Expanding foam is great for insulation towards heat and cold but will do nothing for soundproofing a wall. I actually answer this a similar question in the video coming out tomorrow! Make sure to check it out and lave me a comment on it! Best of luck Gee!
I think the soundproof paint on the existing wall and then putting that caulking and adding another drywall it’s a perfect method thank you
I wanna practice my singing but i dont wanna any neighbors calling the police thinking someone is stabing me to dead with a pencil.
Sing in the bathroo or your closet. That is honestly your best option. You want a small room with no windows and low ceilings.
Very helpful. I just don't know though how much soundproofing i need. I want to do it right the first time and block my neighbor's hot tub humming/low frequency from my bedroom exterior wall. It's driving me crazy!!! The hot tub is about 50ft from my house (can you believe that?) and just resonates in my exterior wall. Can you guide me please? Tks
Hello can you help.
I'm in a house where all the sounds from inside the house coming into the bedroom
Should I sound proof/reduce the walls inside the bedroom or on the outside of those walls(dining area and entry way)
I just want it quiet when I'm in my bedroom trying to get a moment peace
I hope you reply
Thank you
I will like to sound proof a mirror wall , I can hear muffled noises from upstairs, the elevator and the utility room next door. How can I do that. ?
I’m trying to determine an approximate cost for supplies to sound proof two 10 ft walls, using 5/8 in drywall, green glue noise proofing compound, and mass loaded vinyl. Any information greatly appreciated, thanks!
I'm confused. So for an existing wall (blocking outside noise) you can add the MLV directly to the existing drywall then add more drywall directly to the MLV?
Finishing my basement and need some advise .... I am finishing a rec area which i have in my basement which i am now converting to a media room (not a dedicated theater but more like a lounge area where i will have a projector/screen and a descent sound system). 2 sides of the room are against the foundation of the basement and have solid concrete. One of the walls is against the utility area which is where i have the water heater. The 4th wall is a shared wall with renters who stay in another part of my basement. So here is my question -> Should i use green glue for all the 4 walls and the ceiling or should i only consider applying. that on the wall which is shared with the folks who rent my basement? I do intend doing a double dry wall on the wall which is shared with the renters as well as the ceiling but am confused about how generous i should be with using Green glue. I also intend using roxul safe and sound on the shared wall as well as the wall against the utility room and the ceiling. Please advise.
I just searched for this because i rlly dont want the neighbors to hear me.
😂
I want to be able to listen to what i want loud n talk (shout) while gaming without any complainers -_-🎊
this helps a lot
Which is better?? A green glue sandwich of 5/8” type X drywall or 12mm HD particle board? I make laminate flooring and that’s free. Super dense.
If I put some cheep foam or egg carton better the houses of the ceiling and paneling or ceiling tile, will that decress noise to the upper floor? Thanks
Thanks
You are awesome man!!! Please make an overkill wall video with all of these and home test the db as low as possible! Would be fun to watch
Will these things also work for european households? Sadly most products are not available right now.
Thanks so kindly
For me I will save a lot of money and buy all this for sure
have you started..tell me how it's going.. I want to start
man, I used green glue sealant for a set of glass doors in an upstairs loft, and this stuff is REALLY messy and hard to work with. It's too runny, and gets everywhere. It's almost impossible to do a clean job caulking overhead, and be prepared to have a significant portion of the green glue on your floor and everywhere else except for where you wanted it. I would never use this stuff anywhere near a carpet or rug. And once it dries, it has the consistency of chewing gum.
Great info!
6:13 thats exactly what I would do...put my ear to the wall [of wet paint] to see if its helping 😂
So funny. I burned the side of my face thinking the iron was the phone. What happened to the other side? He called again.
i would, if I was fascinated by how quiet it is after painting it
How much is that paint? I need to sleep peacefully, from now on
Thanks a lot for sharing! My apartment is a pain with crazy neighbors !
Very useful for our Instruments area
Do you think that this would work just as well: DIY my own Rock wool by pouring self leveler or swiping slurry concrete over discarded shag carpet pieces. When dry hang the 16” strips on the vertical studs as an interior layer…
Let me try this one, Thank you for sharing
one of my room noisy because of attached bathroom sound..what can i do for it?
We have a new house in NZ and do not want to break anything down, I was wondering if liquid insulation foam can be injected into the area's in between the studs between my lounge and master bedroom?
I have room with 9inch thick brick wall, how should I sound proof ?
Just sound proofing windows and door will sound proof the whole room ?
I have a chimney breast with an air vent in it. Should I sound proof the chimney breast and does the vent let vibrations and noise through? Any advice would be much appreciated 😁
Right i have breeze blocks and plaster so wicth is the best way to sound proof as my next door telephone and tele and her talking incan hear
I struggle to find green glue in my country. Will any flexible caulking work or can you recommend anything else?
Very informative, what do you recommend to a home theater user neighbor, basically for bass annulation??
Your video was very helpful! Thank you!
Is it alright to put my sound proof walls at the center of my door without the sides?
Does this Green Glue things works?
And can I combine MLV with GG?
Thank you so much, I just loved the idea of using bookshelves, may be I'll use it on one wall at least. Could you give me an advice, how to fill considerable gaps (about 10 centimeters) between the floor and the walls (it's under the floor even) and also between the walls and the ceiling, the old walls are made of plaster and I can hear the neighbors from the side very well, but the worst of all is impact noise (the structure vibration when they run or drop something). So I'm thinking about shoving into thses gaps some soundproof material but I don't know whether it sould be some bulk material, plaster, some panels or all of these things. Finances are very limited and I'm a complete beginner in all these things. Could you just point out the sequence and the main principles of this. I guess I won't be able to demolish the old wall to build a new one
Hi, How to soundproof my door and my windows...thanks
If cement and blocks to make a room is there any chance that it will become soundproff
does acoustic walls effective?? what is the cheapest way to install a soundproof wall in rooms:>
I want to do voice recording so by putting fiber glass inside then using vinyl to cover it up along with drywall then sound absorption wouldn't be good right?
Hi, I live in a apartment on first floor and below is ground floor having parking which also have water storage tanks going down till the basement where there is water pumping room that pumps water to overhead tank on 15 th floor. When the submersible motors (4 in number) are switched on there is very irritating noise ringing noise comes into my apartment through the concrete walls which are common walsl going down till basement. The ringing noise is audible in entire apartment. Can u suggest a cost effective solution. My apartment walls are painted.
What about soundproofing airvents. My room and the living room have vents that are connected to each other. As in, my room goes out at the living room.
Thanks for the great tips
My neigbour are nosy i need this
Just play raid shadow legends solves all your sound problems
Do you have any advice on sound proofing a room to keep the noise from a loud motorcycle out? As well how to build a sound booth where a loud HD motorcycle is close & running often? Is it possible to keep that noise on the outside of the room/booth
You can use curtains the one for sound proofing
Can you pls tell till what extent noise can be blocked?
Like television in the very next room, children playing (wildly) above the roof and fighting in the next room?
For stuff like that, just wear headphones. Headphones is honestly your easiest, cheapest and fastest solution. You want to actually do stuff to your walls? Money. Money. Money!
Can i use old towels as sound proof
And make a wall poster
How about carpets?
Like three or four layers of carpets glued to ach other?
(I bought drums and can’t play cause they make way too much noise)
I'm gonna try some of these solutions. There's a pump of some kind in my apartment block that pulses randomly the entire day and night. It's not an issue when I'm awake but it's just terrible when I'm sleeping.
Wish me luck. 🤞🏿
Need this cus parents won’t stop listening to me and standing at my door
Stop giving them a reason and be a good kid you've obviously did something to cause them to mistrust you
@@TruthTeller20242 what a nerd. I bet you don’t even smoke crack and bang hookers BAHAHAHA
@@TruthTeller20242 yeah NEEERD imagine respecting the people who gave you life and raised you lol. Couldn't be me.
@UCudrSfGIapGfJ9P4OUctekQ What a loser hahaha obeying parents?? Next thing ull say is do your homework. All seriousness tho teenagers just need privacy and nosy parents tend to not like that.
@@TruthTeller20242 nah bruh she just nosy lol
My next door neighbor at my business moved in a 30 ton punch and laser cutter 3 years ago. I can't take it no more. I'm going with Quietrock then green glue on 5/8 drywall on top of that.
I’m thinking of doing the same sequence how did it work out for you
@@bluemoth1879 not as good as I hoped. Lower the sound 10 decibels 50 to 40 40 to 30 I had hoped for more.
laudarevsonhunt sorry to hear, try using the rubber sheets then 5/8 sheet rock over that.. you need more mass/thickness.
@@bluemoth1879 I know that now. It cost me 7k. Quietrock not all it was cracked up to be.
laudarevsonhunt that’s unfortunate. Hopefully that’s a tax write off. I think the best solution for your situation is to build a floating wall in front of that wall where the noises coming from... let me know what strategies you used to solve the problem, I have really noisy neighbors that have no respect for their fellow neighbors, I have PTSD can’t deal with noise. Terrible. Hope things work out. 👍👍
Ah I can finally rage quit while gaming again! 🙌🏻 ThankYou! 😋
Cool presentation so looking at all the options they all need to be done with thought it's quite a job but obviously we'll worth it in the end cool
Great tips
Thanks. Great summary.
Hi, I can I sounfproof a window, the only one in the room facing a noisy street? Thank you!!!!!!
You’re welcome!
How do I eliminate sound of footsteps from neighbours above me the building is made from concrete
Could you please tell me if there is any way to observe sound from loud crackers
Thank you
You're very welcome 😊