@@GrzegorzBaranArt I’m a noob on a budget with an iPhone and blender so this was a very good explanation of what higher end gear I may invest for better scans/ photos, ease of use, or just better data collection in general. An app called EveryPoint is working on the ability to scan using the iphones video/ photo cameras in conjunction with its LIDAR sensors. Should be fun to experiment with. Thanks again
@@5265060 I would encourage you to invest into an XRite Color Checker if you ever plan to reuse your captures/images.. even if you shoot wit an iPhone now. This is the only way to calibrate colors in future and to have a reliable color reference, even if you use it just to set the White Balance. I made a big mistake that I didnt at the beginning of my journey therefore I wasted a lot of great captures. Good luck with your capture adventure :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt good deal because that exactly what in gathered from your video and plan it to be my next purchase for this hobby. I’m very interested to see where this industry/ technology goes in the next 5-10 years. Keep up the awesome work man
I really hope you continue to make and share your knowledge. I have a feeling this area is going to grow a lot in the coming years and you will have tons of traction since you are establishing yourself at a good time since it is relatively unknown to most people.
Thanks Jeremy, I am doing my best. I hope this channel will grow in a future and find even more people who might benefit from it. So I have a few more ideas for videos but since usually each needs loads of research.. it takes time to make even one :). Hope this time time is well spent and benefits the video quality :). Thanks for kind words as it really motivates me to keep going :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt you are doing a great job, i have learned almost every bit i know in grammetry from your channel. I really like the clear explanations and technical overview that give a clear understanding what the process is. Cheers!
A super video for the Art, I can recommend your tripod and your choice of twist legs as I went down the same route. A Monopod is also a really usefull tool for the Art. My bag is much the same including the rulers which I brought back from Germany many years ago. I never had the impression that my Dog enjoyed Photogrammetry, he much preferred being on the move sniffing and leaving his mark.
Cheers! I actualy tested a few backapcks.. I covered 3 in this video: th-cam.com/video/KoAn1jDH4ss/w-d-xo.html I recently replaced the small (Targus) one with the PeakDesign30L.. which imo isnt bad but isnt worth the money at all. Overally I got quite bad experience with the PeakDesign. initially they sent me an od version.. .V1 of their backpack even if I paid for a new one.. finally I managed to get the right one.. but I didnt make a video about it since this is not the channel about backpacs after all :) Personally I would say that the best backpack so far for me is the one from the video I linked... a 'MindShift FirstLight 30l'. Manfrotto I used is really good but .. imo it wastes a lot of space. PeakDesign is overadvertised.. it is very fancy.. looks very cool.. has cool magnets etc.. but honesty.. its a bit to unfunctional ... especially when compared with MindShift. So I definitelly recommend the 'MindShift FirstLight 30l' to everyone. Dunno.. if more ppl want me to make a video to compare mindshift and peak design.. I might.. maybe a year after I used both.. dunno. Regarding the monopod.. its the same story. I use 2 monopods. A simple manfrotto presented on this video .. and a super fancy Sirui .... and a simplier manfrotto wins for everyday photogrammetry:). I usually use Sirui to hold my camera when I record my videos as its more stable .. or as a holder for prop photogrammetry.. I am planning to show it in the incoming video about prop scanning. Was thinking about making a video just about monopods tho.. how to use them .. why I prefer simplicity etc.. but wasnt sure if its interesting enough :) And last but not least.. yeah.. the tripod I use is imo a very good one and never found any replacement for it.. if this one is gone.. I would probably purchase the same one again. There are also no many tripods with folded arm too and this feature is a key for ground shooting. Cheers and thanks for exploring my channel :D
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Yes I would get the same tripod again as that centre column is more than handy. Monopods are usefull across other sections of photography. Out in nature a Tripod leg can move a blade of grass that startles what your trying to shoot whereas a monopod can be placed and the top is still moveable. Out having a look around a monopod can look over a fence or just be raised high to give a different view. It was the different view that got me into KAP after I'd explored a 18ft painters pole. I always have a macro lens in my sack as a new place means new bugs. Which brings me on to sacks. Weight can soon add up with Dslr's and batteries, lenses and a Tripod and Monopod so quality is paramount, the same rule applies to shoes/boots for the occasion. Also I have straps that I can secure my sack incase someone wants to run off with it whilst I'm distracted.
@@spex357 Bare in mind that you can always use jut two front legs of a tripod and get similar but even slightly better functionality to the monopod when used.. which can be even better with folded arm this tripod has :). That can be very useful when you use a heavier camera or a camera equipped with a strong flash light like AR400 etc. Monopods tho are definitelly more handy to carry and speeds up the capture. I have found that for ground surfaces they seem to work better to a tripod. But as said, if you want to shot the ground with the heavy AR400 monopod wont work and the arm this tripod offers is a perfect solution to handle heavy equipment steady.
@@GrzegorzBaranArtYes the two legged trick also allows movement and provides better stability but for portability a monopod is my prefered on a travel light project. I could make use of a square section Monopod as it couldn't twist as I project my camera horizontally, often. Some say I expect too much out of everything, but they are all just tools that can be redesigned if needed.
Thanks, you can always use the monopod as a weapon ;) .. but simply, I dont shot when I feel that it is not safe. Also I don't shot at night etc. I always keep all equipment I don't currently use packed in my backpack so no one can just grab something and run (the recording equipment I use to record those videos is an exception but when I see something suspicious I simply stop recording and re-start when it is safe). In case of direct hand combat ..the UK seems to be quite civilized and safe country and in many places this equipment isn't anything special and isn't worth to risk direct combat .. I guess I am also not an easy target to rob ;P.. outside of the UK, depends where am I , I guess I would consider carrying a weapon ;). I capture for fun.. not because I have to.. it means there is no pressure on me and I can always pick a location and time which suits me. I always put safety first.. so I also don't capture when it is dangerous from many other reasons and trying to not risk my life :)
Of course, any DSLR camera witch matrix over 18Mpx should do the job if properly used. Even lower matrix should work but I wouldnt recommend going below 18Mpx. Hope. I wouldnt stick to a certain brand too, if you believe that Nikon works better for yourself, take it.. if you already have Sony lenses, grab Sony.camera. I was thinking about replaing my canon with the mirrorless Sony recently, but probably wont do that until this Canon is functional and wont break. Photogrammetry capture is the area where practice and knowledge of your camera really pays off. So the best and the most expensive camera wont do the job if you are not good in shooting. You can get often better results with a cheapper camera if you know it better and you understand what each setting does. Of course there is a certain level where the tool used for capture affect the quality and no matter what skill you have you wont skip it, but as long as you stick with DSLR and glass lenses there is nothing to worry about. Sometimies you might simply need to take a bit more images if you capture lower resolution and decrease the distance to the subject.. or use tripod more often etc. but as long you shot in RAW, don't have ISO noise and images are sharp you should be totally fine.. Hope that helps :) and good luck with scanning
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Don't worry abou it, just make one big with all your uploads. There are no many playlist regardin photogrammetry and yours is really well rounded.
Basicaly camera is just a tool and as long it has key features like option to swap lenses, full setting control (ISO, apreture, shutter speed), stores data in RAW and sensor has at least 18Mpx resolution, it should be fine. To be honest, lens is more important to camera itself.. and actual skill and knowlede how to use it. So good photographel who knows his camera should be able to take a better image with £200 camera then a bad one with camera worth £5000 one. So any brand should be good. For photogrammetry I suggest to take a full frame one. So Sony A7R2 is a great one, Canon 90D is a great one, even if has cropped sensor. Nikons are great for still images as well... everything depends on the budget you have really. Of course better camera is going to make your life easier and help you to save some time etc. but the difference isnt proportional and 2 times more expensive camera wont do 2 times better job. To save money I would consider something good but older. You dont need top new cameras for photogrammetry as most of new features are usually 'video' related
Great to see a breakdown of everything in your bag. I keep seeing the AR400W mentioned for great cross-polarization on the go; do you currently do any cross-polarization using your CPL?
Thanks man, since I dont have a flash light to be mounted around the lens, I use crosspolarisation only for photometric stereo captures. Might cover it in a future videos if someone is interested to go into details.
Hi Grzegorz, I wanted to know what is the equivalent of the EOS 80D at Nikon for you ? What do you think about the EOS R ? I ask you these questions because it is very difficult to find an EOS 80D, it's really crazy !
Hey, Equivalent of Canons 80D is 90D. 90D is an awesome camera with APS-C sized sensor but its the last in DSLR line. It also utilises EF mount. I have no clue about Nikon as I dont use any. The problem with DSLR is that DSLRs are discontinued in favour of mirrorless cameras so to be honest, I wouldnt invest in any DSLR anymore as lenses for DSLR have different construction to mirrorless type. So if you get 90D you are going to be amazed.. especially that all EF second hand lenses are much cheapper now. But its a dead end street. This is why I upgraded my camera to Canon R. Not because I love Canon, but because it was more affordable to Sony A7R4 and I already had all supportive gear for Canon brand (cables, chargers, spare batteries, flash triggers, EF lenses). TO be honest electronics of the CanonR I purchased broke after 3 days of testing and the store had to replace it with a new one. Anyway, with Canon brand I just had to purchase an original lens adapter so I can use old lenses and I was ready to go. It doesnt make much difference as this adapter mimics the mirror distance so all original physical parameters for EF lenses are maintained, just the overal buld gets heavier and larger then it would be with original RF lens. The problem with new Canon's RF lens mount, is that Canon doesnt allow any 3rd party companies to develop lenses for this mount type. In result while you always have cheapper alternative in lenses for other brands, you simply cant purchase any SIGMA etc. as they are not and wont be produced for new Canons EF mount. I dont know is Canon going to maintain this policy as they lost a lot of customers for this reason already.. and maybe this is why Canons cameras are slightly cheapper to their competition now. If I have to start from scratch and I have budget for it I would probably pick SONY A7R4 camera instead with original 24-70mm G lens. But at the end, bear in mind that actual camera isnt as relevant to entire process. We switch cameras pretty often as they have limited shutters life span etc. We keep lenses tho, cables and entire supportive equipment much longer. So its not worth to overinvest in camera.. and this is why I am actually quite happy with Canon R.. not to mention its FULL FRAME which makes some difference if you use FULL FRAME lenses - I already had some full frame lenses already for EF mount like Sigma 24-70mm I can use with Canon R mounted on Canons EF to RF adapter. In a future I consider to purchase original Canons RF 24-70mm one but its expensive as hell :). Hope that helps, Cheers!
Thank you very much for this answer and to the question: "Hope that helps" Oh no my friend I am even more lost! I'm joke of course :) For my part, I start without accessory so I don't need to buy canon specially but the info you gave me is very useful. The problem is where to buy? I'm very wary of buying online because I've read a lot of reviews on canon where customers are unhappy because the burst mode or something mechanical doesn't work. I'm not surprised that your R broke down after 3 days. There are some stores in France where people bring the product back and it is put back on the shelf without even being checked and when you buy the product thinking it is new but it is missing a cable or something else. This is my experience that speaks! I think I'll go with Sony I've had several positive feedback. ALPHA 7 III + FE 24-70 mm f/4 OSS Zeiss I think of this one it's out of my budget ! Thanks again for your help. Best Hervé
@@RV-bc9yi I think this SONY is a great choice. As said, camera doesnt matter much and its not worth overinvestment, the supportive equipement does. So it is better to invest in good tripod, lens, backpack, spare batteries, reliable memory cards etc. I would always consider camera body as something you are gonna replace after 3-4 years anyway. Brand matters regarding overal reliability and gear compatibility and its cost. As said, if I start fresh, SONY brand would be probably my first choice for today, but brand swap at this stage would be too expensive for me, and the actual difference between top camera brands isnt worth this cost and hassle of brand swap. Bear in mind that these are not just SONY, CANON and NIKON out there :) and cometition on camera's market is really hard. Yeah, CANON lost a lot in my eyes recently as I had a lot of bad experience with the camera but whats the most important.. with their custommer support. Its the actual store I purchased from (John&Lewis) solved most of my problems with this camera and some other crap. Canon's customer support was really bad and I almost lost the cashback option. The camera I purchased had some kind of electronical failure which should be found easily during QC pass. Screen was glitching from time to time when camera was operational and camera itself was freezing and only turning it off was helping. After 3 days battery swap etc. didnt help anymore and it was frozen forever. The funyn thing is that customer support was suggesting to hold power button for 10 seconds while camera.. like most other cameras on the market has circular power/mode switch.. not an actual button we can press. Anyway, replacement works and a good lesson learnt. Canon tought me that its not worth to be loyal to any brand and product out there as at the end its just a business :D. SO even if you get SONY, bear in mind that at some point you might switch to Fuji or Nikon or whatever brand out there offers you more for less. I was planning to get SONY AIII but they were all off stock everywhere I checked already. It would be much better choice to CanonR for sure. Anyway, good luck with your purchase. Cheers!
I am not sure what you mean. These rulers doesnt speed up anything. I show how I use them in my videos where I show how to capture ground surfaces. I use them as a scale reference as scale is very subjective and shouldnt be eyeballed.
@@CR3DT oh, now it makes sense. They help to navigate the camera and capture images in even rows. It also helps to avoid double captures or low coverage, not to mention avoiding excess out of focus part for reconstruction. Its not about rulers themself, but anything that helps to mark and navigate wiithin the scanning area can do the job. Initially I used to use tin foil balls, but rulers also works as reliable scale reference and helps with further lowpoly coverage definition. I found these exact folded rulers as the most useful from all navigational tools I was playing with and even after years, I still use these on a daily basis for almost each material capture.
I use full frame camera on a daily basis. Yes, there are some differences and each has some pros and cons. Full frame is better as it deals better in low light conditions - simply because its bigger. Full frame camera needs full frame lens and wont work with a crop pne... while camera with crop sensor can use any lens - full frame and cropped. Smaller sensor means less side lend distortion. Some cameras like Sony A7R4 for example have optional cropped sensor mode option. Its a subject which is hard to desribe in details with text and it will be covered in details in my incoming book about photogrammetry. But if you have a choice, go for a full frame one. Cropped one isn't bad too. In practice it is more about knowing your camera and use what it offerst then just sensor size. But in pure math, for photogrammetry, a full frame option is slightly better to the cropped one. Crop one is much better for extreme macro photography for example.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Do you recommend an old full-frame camera? most of em below 18 MP, so I'm not sure this is ideal for photogrammetry. I also wonder do the in-house level, material, vegetation, and environment artists alike do the photogrammetry themself or mostly it's purchased from the marketplace or delegated to a remote team? specifically at Ubisoft or other companies, you've worked at. I'm curious when photogrammetry is actually used in the studio pipeline since based on your video and all photogrammetry tutorial it takes much more time and resources than modeling or procedurally generating the whole thing in 3d instead. Thanks for the in-depth answers it's really helped me with my purchasing decision.
@@garethgoodman2651 While any camera will do the photogrammetry job, I dont recommend any camera with matrix below 18Mpx. I woul daim in at least 24Mpx to be honest. If you have a full frame camera with matrix below 18Mpx and a cropped one with matrix 24Mpx, I would definitelly pick the cropped one. Regarding pipelines, it all depends. I can give you any pipeline details about how things are done at Ubisoft as these are things under the NDA and I run this channel as private person, not Ubisoft employee, therefore I cant share any work related details with anyone outside of the company as I am not allowed to. But I can tell you that overall in the industry, it all depends on the subject, project, budget, production time, accessibility, subject complexity etc. and there is no single, perfect solution for it. In practice its usually mix of solutions and techniques depending on certain case. I totally disagree with your assumption about production time. It all depends on material type, its accessibility, expected quality level, tooling etc. To be honest, it takes roughly about a day to get a high quality photogrammetry based, complex matereial from scratch while it can take even 5 days to make similar one procedurally. Not to mention there are other techniques we can use like photometric stereo capture or Image2PBR technique. In all these cases gives you material you usually want and guarantee scale and visual consistency. Sometimes it is worth to spend even more that time and effort, especially when it comes to hero props and hero materials. Of course somethimes it is not and it is worth to work cheap. By using existing libraries, you are limited just to already existing materials. They are often non-consistent, have bugs, scalling issues, etc. So, lets say it takes about a few hours to to find the material and turn it into the one you want from Megascans or Substance Source etc. Some megascans materials say they cover 2x2m but many simply doesnt and cover less. I even found materials described as 2x2m which were about 80x80cm. Also quality of megascans materials isnt consistent. And last but not least, by re-using stuff available for everyone, your product is going to look similar to other competetive products which also use the same assets library. So its really hard to answer your question as the answer is complex and very case dependent. Usually big studios mix techniques and use the best one for certain job. Also, bear in mind that Megascans products or Substance Source products arent free for large companies like they are for students etc. So at the end, it is worth to know and apply all creation techniques and use the one which suits the best for the job. There is no bad technique. What matters at the end is the result quality and overall consistency - of course within given production budget. Last but not least, bear in mind that you can mix available techniques. For example you can have a task to sculpt a photorealistic looking rock. It can be done in manual and painful way, or with use of sculting brushes like these I made using photogrammetry: www.artstation.com/artwork/q9xeme These brushes speeds up sculting process many times and give you photorealistic looking result easily. So even if it took a lot of work to make these, they can be used many times and save time spent on making them later. You can do the same with texture atlases and re-use them to scatter elements over many different materials etc. Basically sky is the limit here. I know its not a YES/NO one but there is no simple answer for your question. If you ever apply to Ubisoft and get hired, and sign the NDA, feel free to ping me there anytime and I will be happy to share with you all our production details. Unfortunately, as mentioned, I am not allowed to share them in here without breaking the NDA. Who knows, maybe one day I will share them with Ubisoft's consent at GDC. Time will tell. Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Ok, If that was the case I will find the 24MP DSLR. That actually make sense to mix different workflow and techniques since most projects usually have different needs and treatment. Thanks for all the answers and explanations, it means a lot, Cheers!
@@garethgoodman2651 Just bear in mind that all DSLR cameras from all brands were discontinued. It means two things: you wont be able to use lenses designed for DSLR cameras without adapter on mirorless cameras, but all DSLR lenses and second hand DSLR cameras are very cheap now.
Yes I do. You can get access to my best through my material library on gumroad for example: gum.co/WJAQy I am planning to keep adding materials there and grow it and everyone with access would get them as part of it. Also thinking about adding atlas textures I make there but I am not sure in what form yet. Might increase a price when library grows too much tho. If you search for single materials, I sell them on my artstation store: www.artstation.com/gbaran/store but these are exactly the same materials I added to the gumroad library.
I enjoy your Videos and find them very helpfull. Since this is kind of a beginner Video, I would like to know how much money are you making, are you self employed or is it just a hobby for yours? Is it worth investing time and money in to this, not to get rich, but to get by?
Thanks. its a bit tricky question. Its a hobby but also my actual full time job is based on it. I would suggest to check my artstation profile for better understanding: www.artstation.com/gbaran
I think I have answered this question in this video at 40:43: th-cam.com/video/c7tI6ICo23I/w-d-xo.html So in my opinion a tipod is a better solution as it can be parked on the ground but if needed, can also work as a monopod. Some monopods has triple legs at the bottom which helps in parking, but they lack of stability for such heavy gear and we can lose it all when it hits the ground. So I would rather use a tripod or bear hands then a monopod when shooting with heavy flash mounted. A monopod works great when it carries just the camera.
Because it is produced in a special way with labolatory accuracy so it color accuracy is quaranteed and can be used for any color calibration. These clips are not just simple colors but each has exact measured known color value and holds this value in time. Unfortunatelly even X-Rite color checker has 2 years of exire date as color fades in time. Of course you dont need to use high accuracy color checker, you can use something cheapper .. but this way you lose quarantee for your color calibration accuracy. Cheers!
Thanks, good point.. was wandering should I call it an insulation tape but I didnt :). Probably I should since this one doesnt leave any marks when used.
Konkretnie dokładnie. Bardzo fajna narracja.
Dziekowac po raz kolejny :)
Thank you for your precious information and also sharing and contribution to the community. Much helpful, all these videos!
You are welcome :)
Lots of useful informations, thanks.
Happy to hear that :). Thanks
Very useful information. Thank you.
Thanks :)
Thanks! The information in this video is invaluable.
Thank you :)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt I’m a noob on a budget with an iPhone and blender so this was a very good explanation of what higher end gear I may invest for better scans/ photos, ease of use, or just better data collection in general. An app called EveryPoint is working on the ability to scan using the iphones video/ photo cameras in conjunction with its LIDAR sensors. Should be fun to experiment with. Thanks again
@@5265060 I would encourage you to invest into an XRite Color Checker if you ever plan to reuse your captures/images.. even if you shoot wit an iPhone now. This is the only way to calibrate colors in future and to have a reliable color reference, even if you use it just to set the White Balance. I made a big mistake that I didnt at the beginning of my journey therefore I wasted a lot of great captures. Good luck with your capture adventure :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt good deal because that exactly what in gathered from your video and plan it to be my next purchase for this hobby. I’m very interested to see where this industry/ technology goes in the next 5-10 years. Keep up the awesome work man
Great! It very helpful. Thanks for share!
Glad to hear that. Thanks for watching :)
Fantastic Vid! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, glad to know you found it interesting :). Cheers!
I really hope you continue to make and share your knowledge. I have a feeling this area is going to grow a lot in the coming years and you will have tons of traction since you are establishing yourself at a good time since it is relatively unknown to most people.
Thanks Jeremy, I am doing my best. I hope this channel will grow in a future and find even more people who might benefit from it. So I have a few more ideas for videos but since usually each needs loads of research.. it takes time to make even one :). Hope this time time is well spent and benefits the video quality :). Thanks for kind words as it really motivates me to keep going :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt you are doing a great job, i have learned almost every bit i know in grammetry from your channel.
I really like the clear explanations and technical overview that give a clear understanding what the process is. Cheers!
Thanks to share your experience and knowledge!
You are welcome, hope you have found something useful for yourself in my videos.. and big thanks for watching :). Cheers!
Thank you for the video
You are welcome, hope you found it useful :)
Very informative video with perfect ending, thanks!
Happy to know you like it.. and big thanks for watching till the end :), Cheers!
Great insights, thanks for your time and effort!
Thanks Teodor, my pleasure :)
A super video for the Art,
I can recommend your tripod and your choice of twist legs as I went down the same route. A Monopod is also a really usefull tool for the Art. My bag is much the same including the rulers which I brought back from Germany many years ago. I never had the impression that my Dog enjoyed Photogrammetry, he much preferred being on the move sniffing and leaving his mark.
Cheers! I actualy tested a few backapcks.. I covered 3 in this video: th-cam.com/video/KoAn1jDH4ss/w-d-xo.html
I recently replaced the small (Targus) one with the PeakDesign30L.. which imo isnt bad but isnt worth the money at all. Overally I got quite bad experience with the PeakDesign. initially they sent me an od version.. .V1 of their backpack even if I paid for a new one.. finally I managed to get the right one.. but I didnt make a video about it since this is not the channel about backpacs after all :)
Personally I would say that the best backpack so far for me is the one from the video I linked... a 'MindShift FirstLight 30l'. Manfrotto I used is really good but .. imo it wastes a lot of space. PeakDesign is overadvertised.. it is very fancy.. looks very cool.. has cool magnets etc.. but honesty.. its a bit to unfunctional ... especially when compared with MindShift. So I definitelly recommend the 'MindShift FirstLight 30l' to everyone. Dunno.. if more ppl want me to make a video to compare mindshift and peak design.. I might.. maybe a year after I used both.. dunno.
Regarding the monopod.. its the same story. I use 2 monopods. A simple manfrotto presented on this video .. and a super fancy Sirui .... and a simplier manfrotto wins for everyday photogrammetry:). I usually use Sirui to hold my camera when I record my videos as its more stable .. or as a holder for prop photogrammetry.. I am planning to show it in the incoming video about prop scanning.
Was thinking about making a video just about monopods tho.. how to use them .. why I prefer simplicity etc.. but wasnt sure if its interesting enough :)
And last but not least.. yeah.. the tripod I use is imo a very good one and never found any replacement for it.. if this one is gone.. I would probably purchase the same one again. There are also no many tripods with folded arm too and this feature is a key for ground shooting. Cheers and thanks for exploring my channel :D
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Yes I would get the same tripod again as that centre column is more than handy. Monopods are usefull across other sections of photography. Out in nature a Tripod leg can move a blade of grass that startles what your trying to shoot whereas a monopod can be placed and the top is still moveable. Out having a look around a monopod can look over a fence or just be raised high to give a different view. It was the different view that got me into KAP after I'd explored a 18ft painters pole.
I always have a macro lens in my sack as a new place means new bugs.
Which brings me on to sacks. Weight can soon add up with Dslr's and batteries, lenses and a Tripod and Monopod so quality is paramount, the same rule applies to shoes/boots for the occasion. Also I have straps that I can secure my sack incase someone wants to run off with it whilst I'm distracted.
@@spex357 Bare in mind that you can always use jut two front legs of a tripod and get similar but even slightly better functionality to the monopod when used.. which can be even better with folded arm this tripod has :). That can be very useful when you use a heavier camera or a camera equipped with a strong flash light like AR400 etc. Monopods tho are definitelly more handy to carry and speeds up the capture. I have found that for ground surfaces they seem to work better to a tripod. But as said, if you want to shot the ground with the heavy AR400 monopod wont work and the arm this tripod offers is a perfect solution to handle heavy equipment steady.
@@GrzegorzBaranArtYes the two legged trick also allows movement and provides better stability but for portability a monopod is my prefered on a travel light project. I could make use of a square section Monopod as it couldn't twist as I project my camera horizontally, often. Some say I expect too much out of everything, but they are all just tools that can be redesigned if needed.
Great video! Thank you for the time you put into making it!
Thanks Roman, glad it was helpful! :D. Cheers!
Superb video. Very inspiring and helpful as always. Keep going Grzegorz!
Thank you Maciej, appreciated :)
Thank you 🙏
Anytime :)
Nicely done. Thank you
Thanks Rick, you are welcome.
I came for the Photogrammetry, stayed for the doggo.
:D
Another great video Grzegorz. My only fear carrying all that expensive kit would be attracting muggers!
Thanks, you can always use the monopod as a weapon ;) .. but simply, I dont shot when I feel that it is not safe. Also I don't shot at night etc. I always keep all equipment I don't currently use packed in my backpack so no one can just grab something and run (the recording equipment I use to record those videos is an exception but when I see something suspicious I simply stop recording and re-start when it is safe). In case of direct hand combat ..the UK seems to be quite civilized and safe country and in many places this equipment isn't anything special and isn't worth to risk direct combat .. I guess I am also not an easy target to rob ;P.. outside of the UK, depends where am I , I guess I would consider carrying a weapon ;). I capture for fun.. not because I have to.. it means there is no pressure on me and I can always pick a location and time which suits me. I always put safety first.. so I also don't capture when it is dangerous from many other reasons and trying to not risk my life :)
Awesome video, you got too much stuff ;) the dog part is pure class!!!
Thank you Barny :), appreciated. The dog part was made especially for you ;P
Hello sir can u suggest a cheaper alternatives cannon 80d
Very informative video keep going higher cheers
Of course, any DSLR camera witch matrix over 18Mpx should do the job if properly used. Even lower matrix should work but I wouldnt recommend going below 18Mpx. Hope. I wouldnt stick to a certain brand too, if you believe that Nikon works better for yourself, take it.. if you already have Sony lenses, grab Sony.camera. I was thinking about replaing my canon with the mirrorless Sony recently, but probably wont do that until this Canon is functional and wont break. Photogrammetry capture is the area where practice and knowledge of your camera really pays off. So the best and the most expensive camera wont do the job if you are not good in shooting. You can get often better results with a cheapper camera if you know it better and you understand what each setting does. Of course there is a certain level where the tool used for capture affect the quality and no matter what skill you have you wont skip it, but as long as you stick with DSLR and glass lenses there is nothing to worry about. Sometimies you might simply need to take a bit more images if you capture lower resolution and decrease the distance to the subject.. or use tripod more often etc. but as long you shot in RAW, don't have ISO noise and images are sharp you should be totally fine.. Hope that helps :) and good luck with scanning
Great video and well paced, thanks a lot for sharing. You should create some playlists and fix a bit your youtube homepage, anyways, great content.
Thanks man, appreciated. Thanks for the tip thou .. but not sure if I have enough videos to sort them :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Don't worry abou it, just make one big with all your uploads. There are no many playlist regardin photogrammetry and yours is really well rounded.
could you recommend a mid-range camera?
Basicaly camera is just a tool and as long it has key features like option to swap lenses, full setting control (ISO, apreture, shutter speed), stores data in RAW and sensor has at least 18Mpx resolution, it should be fine. To be honest, lens is more important to camera itself.. and actual skill and knowlede how to use it. So good photographel who knows his camera should be able to take a better image with £200 camera then a bad one with camera worth £5000 one. So any brand should be good. For photogrammetry I suggest to take a full frame one. So Sony A7R2 is a great one, Canon 90D is a great one, even if has cropped sensor. Nikons are great for still images as well... everything depends on the budget you have really. Of course better camera is going to make your life easier and help you to save some time etc. but the difference isnt proportional and 2 times more expensive camera wont do 2 times better job. To save money I would consider something good but older. You dont need top new cameras for photogrammetry as most of new features are usually 'video' related
Great to see a breakdown of everything in your bag. I keep seeing the AR400W mentioned for great cross-polarization on the go; do you currently do any cross-polarization using your CPL?
Thanks man, since I dont have a flash light to be mounted around the lens, I use crosspolarisation only for photometric stereo captures. Might cover it in a future videos if someone is interested to go into details.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Stereo capture sound awesome, I hope you show us some in the future.
Subscribed 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks and welcome to my channel :)
Hi Grzegorz, I wanted to know what is the equivalent of the EOS 80D at Nikon for you ?
What do you think about the EOS R ?
I ask you these questions because it is very difficult to find an EOS 80D, it's really crazy !
Hey, Equivalent of Canons 80D is 90D. 90D is an awesome camera with APS-C sized sensor but its the last in DSLR line. It also utilises EF mount. I have no clue about Nikon as I dont use any. The problem with DSLR is that DSLRs are discontinued in favour of mirrorless cameras so to be honest, I wouldnt invest in any DSLR anymore as lenses for DSLR have different construction to mirrorless type. So if you get 90D you are going to be amazed.. especially that all EF second hand lenses are much cheapper now. But its a dead end street. This is why I upgraded my camera to Canon R. Not because I love Canon, but because it was more affordable to Sony A7R4 and I already had all supportive gear for Canon brand (cables, chargers, spare batteries, flash triggers, EF lenses). TO be honest electronics of the CanonR I purchased broke after 3 days of testing and the store had to replace it with a new one. Anyway, with Canon brand I just had to purchase an original lens adapter so I can use old lenses and I was ready to go. It doesnt make much difference as this adapter mimics the mirror distance so all original physical parameters for EF lenses are maintained, just the overal buld gets heavier and larger then it would be with original RF lens. The problem with new Canon's RF lens mount, is that Canon doesnt allow any 3rd party companies to develop lenses for this mount type. In result while you always have cheapper alternative in lenses for other brands, you simply cant purchase any SIGMA etc. as they are not and wont be produced for new Canons EF mount. I dont know is Canon going to maintain this policy as they lost a lot of customers for this reason already.. and maybe this is why Canons cameras are slightly cheapper to their competition now. If I have to start from scratch and I have budget for it I would probably pick SONY A7R4 camera instead with original 24-70mm G lens.
But at the end, bear in mind that actual camera isnt as relevant to entire process. We switch cameras pretty often as they have limited shutters life span etc. We keep lenses tho, cables and entire supportive equipment much longer. So its not worth to overinvest in camera.. and this is why I am actually quite happy with Canon R.. not to mention its FULL FRAME which makes some difference if you use FULL FRAME lenses - I already had some full frame lenses already for EF mount like Sigma 24-70mm I can use with Canon R mounted on Canons EF to RF adapter. In a future I consider to purchase original Canons RF 24-70mm one but its expensive as hell :). Hope that helps, Cheers!
Thank you very much for this answer and to the question:
"Hope that helps"
Oh no my friend I am even more lost! I'm joke of course :)
For my part, I start without accessory so I don't need to buy canon specially but the info you gave me is very useful. The problem is where to buy? I'm very wary of buying online because I've read a lot of reviews on canon where customers are unhappy because the burst mode or something mechanical doesn't work. I'm not surprised that your R broke down after 3 days. There are some stores in France where people bring the product back and it is put back on the shelf without even being checked and when you buy the product thinking it is new but it is missing a cable or something else. This is my experience that speaks!
I think I'll go with Sony I've had several positive feedback.
ALPHA 7 III + FE 24-70 mm f/4 OSS Zeiss I think of this one it's out of my budget !
Thanks again for your help.
Best
Hervé
@@RV-bc9yi I think this SONY is a great choice. As said, camera doesnt matter much and its not worth overinvestment, the supportive equipement does. So it is better to invest in good tripod, lens, backpack, spare batteries, reliable memory cards etc. I would always consider camera body as something you are gonna replace after 3-4 years anyway. Brand matters regarding overal reliability and gear compatibility and its cost.
As said, if I start fresh, SONY brand would be probably my first choice for today, but brand swap at this stage would be too expensive for me, and the actual difference between top camera brands isnt worth this cost and hassle of brand swap. Bear in mind that these are not just SONY, CANON and NIKON out there :) and cometition on camera's market is really hard.
Yeah, CANON lost a lot in my eyes recently as I had a lot of bad experience with the camera but whats the most important.. with their custommer support. Its the actual store I purchased from (John&Lewis) solved most of my problems with this camera and some other crap. Canon's customer support was really bad and I almost lost the cashback option.
The camera I purchased had some kind of electronical failure which should be found easily during QC pass. Screen was glitching from time to time when camera was operational and camera itself was freezing and only turning it off was helping. After 3 days battery swap etc. didnt help anymore and it was frozen forever. The funyn thing is that customer support was suggesting to hold power button for 10 seconds while camera.. like most other cameras on the market has circular power/mode switch.. not an actual button we can press. Anyway, replacement works and a good lesson learnt. Canon tought me that its not worth to be loyal to any brand and product out there as at the end its just a business :D. SO even if you get SONY, bear in mind that at some point you might switch to Fuji or Nikon or whatever brand out there offers you more for less. I was planning to get SONY AIII but they were all off stock everywhere I checked already. It would be much better choice to CanonR for sure. Anyway, good luck with your purchase. Cheers!
can you please explain how you use your two folding rulers to speed up your efficieny?
I am not sure what you mean. These rulers doesnt speed up anything. I show how I use them in my videos where I show how to capture ground surfaces. I use them as a scale reference as scale is very subjective and shouldnt be eyeballed.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt you had mentioned in your video that they allow you to scan faster and not over scans (take photos).
@@CR3DT oh, now it makes sense. They help to navigate the camera and capture images in even rows. It also helps to avoid double captures or low coverage, not to mention avoiding excess out of focus part for reconstruction. Its not about rulers themself, but anything that helps to mark and navigate wiithin the scanning area can do the job. Initially I used to use tin foil balls, but rulers also works as reliable scale reference and helps with further lowpoly coverage definition. I found these exact folded rulers as the most useful from all navigational tools I was playing with and even after years, I still use these on a daily basis for almost each material capture.
Hi, do you have experience doing photogrammetry with a full-frame camera, if yes what is the difference between the crop one?
I use full frame camera on a daily basis. Yes, there are some differences and each has some pros and cons. Full frame is better as it deals better in low light conditions - simply because its bigger. Full frame camera needs full frame lens and wont work with a crop pne... while camera with crop sensor can use any lens - full frame and cropped. Smaller sensor means less side lend distortion. Some cameras like Sony A7R4 for example have optional cropped sensor mode option. Its a subject which is hard to desribe in details with text and it will be covered in details in my incoming book about photogrammetry. But if you have a choice, go for a full frame one. Cropped one isn't bad too. In practice it is more about knowing your camera and use what it offerst then just sensor size. But in pure math, for photogrammetry, a full frame option is slightly better to the cropped one. Crop one is much better for extreme macro photography for example.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Do you recommend an old full-frame camera? most of em below 18 MP, so I'm not sure this is ideal for photogrammetry.
I also wonder do the in-house level, material, vegetation, and environment artists alike do the photogrammetry themself or mostly it's purchased from the marketplace or delegated to a remote team? specifically at Ubisoft or other companies, you've worked at.
I'm curious when photogrammetry is actually used in the studio pipeline since based on your video and all photogrammetry tutorial it takes much more time and resources than modeling or procedurally generating the whole thing in 3d instead.
Thanks for the in-depth answers it's really helped me with my purchasing decision.
@@garethgoodman2651 While any camera will do the photogrammetry job, I dont recommend any camera with matrix below 18Mpx. I woul daim in at least 24Mpx to be honest. If you have a full frame camera with matrix below 18Mpx and a cropped one with matrix 24Mpx, I would definitelly pick the cropped one.
Regarding pipelines, it all depends. I can give you any pipeline details about how things are done at Ubisoft as these are things under the NDA and I run this channel as private person, not Ubisoft employee, therefore I cant share any work related details with anyone outside of the company as I am not allowed to.
But I can tell you that overall in the industry, it all depends on the subject, project, budget, production time, accessibility, subject complexity etc. and there is no single, perfect solution for it. In practice its usually mix of solutions and techniques depending on certain case.
I totally disagree with your assumption about production time. It all depends on material type, its accessibility, expected quality level, tooling etc. To be honest, it takes roughly about a day to get a high quality photogrammetry based, complex matereial from scratch while it can take even 5 days to make similar one procedurally.
Not to mention there are other techniques we can use like photometric stereo capture or Image2PBR technique. In all these cases gives you material you usually want and guarantee scale and visual consistency. Sometimes it is worth to spend even more that time and effort, especially when it comes to hero props and hero materials. Of course somethimes it is not and it is worth to work cheap.
By using existing libraries, you are limited just to already existing materials. They are often non-consistent, have bugs, scalling issues, etc. So, lets say it takes about a few hours to to find the material and turn it into the one you want from Megascans or Substance Source etc. Some megascans materials say they cover 2x2m but many simply doesnt and cover less. I even found materials described as 2x2m which were about 80x80cm. Also quality of megascans materials isnt consistent. And last but not least, by re-using stuff available for everyone, your product is going to look similar to other competetive products which also use the same assets library.
So its really hard to answer your question as the answer is complex and very case dependent. Usually big studios mix techniques and use the best one for certain job. Also, bear in mind that Megascans products or Substance Source products arent free for large companies like they are for students etc. So at the end, it is worth to know and apply all creation techniques and use the one which suits the best for the job. There is no bad technique. What matters at the end is the result quality and overall consistency - of course within given production budget.
Last but not least, bear in mind that you can mix available techniques. For example you can have a task to sculpt a photorealistic looking rock. It can be done in manual and painful way, or with use of sculting brushes like these I made using photogrammetry: www.artstation.com/artwork/q9xeme
These brushes speeds up sculting process many times and give you photorealistic looking result easily. So even if it took a lot of work to make these, they can be used many times and save time spent on making them later. You can do the same with texture atlases and re-use them to scatter elements over many different materials etc. Basically sky is the limit here.
I know its not a YES/NO one but there is no simple answer for your question. If you ever apply to Ubisoft and get hired, and sign the NDA, feel free to ping me there anytime and I will be happy to share with you all our production details. Unfortunately, as mentioned, I am not allowed to share them in here without breaking the NDA. Who knows, maybe one day I will share them with Ubisoft's consent at GDC. Time will tell. Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Ok, If that was the case I will find the 24MP DSLR.
That actually make sense to mix different workflow and techniques since most projects usually have different needs and treatment.
Thanks for all the answers and explanations, it means a lot, Cheers!
@@garethgoodman2651 Just bear in mind that all DSLR cameras from all brands were discontinued. It means two things: you wont be able to use lenses designed for DSLR cameras without adapter on mirorless cameras, but all DSLR lenses and second hand DSLR cameras are very cheap now.
How do you Earn money with photogrammetry? do you sell pbr materials?
Yes I do. You can get access to my best through my material library on gumroad for example:
gum.co/WJAQy
I am planning to keep adding materials there and grow it and everyone with access would get them as part of it. Also thinking about adding atlas textures I make there but I am not sure in what form yet. Might increase a price when library grows too much tho. If you search for single materials, I sell them on my artstation store:
www.artstation.com/gbaran/store
but these are exactly the same materials I added to the gumroad library.
I enjoy your Videos and find them very helpfull.
Since this is kind of a beginner Video, I would like to know how much money are you making, are you self employed or is it just a hobby for yours?
Is it worth investing time and money in to this, not to get rich, but to get by?
Thanks. its a bit tricky question. Its a hobby but also my actual full time job is based on it. I would suggest to check my artstation profile for better understanding: www.artstation.com/gbaran
which is best for vertical scanning with AR400, Tripod, or Monopod?
I think I have answered this question in this video at 40:43: th-cam.com/video/c7tI6ICo23I/w-d-xo.html
So in my opinion a tipod is a better solution as it can be parked on the ground but if needed, can also work as a monopod. Some monopods has triple legs at the bottom which helps in parking, but they lack of stability for such heavy gear and we can lose it all when it hits the ground. So I would rather use a tripod or bear hands then a monopod when shooting with heavy flash mounted. A monopod works great when it carries just the camera.
Why color checker is so expensive
Because it is produced in a special way with labolatory accuracy so it color accuracy is quaranteed and can be used for any color calibration. These clips are not just simple colors but each has exact measured known color value and holds this value in time. Unfortunatelly even X-Rite color checker has 2 years of exire date as color fades in time. Of course you dont need to use high accuracy color checker, you can use something cheapper .. but this way you lose quarantee for your color calibration accuracy. Cheers!
Great video!
FYI that's electrical tape, not duct tape
Thanks, good point.. was wandering should I call it an insulation tape but I didnt :). Probably I should since this one doesnt leave any marks when used.