Two things: First, I put two crisscrossed small strips of electricians tape on the ends of the axels. This makes a smooth surface for the boot to stretch over (and also prevents cutting into the boot). After the boot is on, I remove the tape, of course. Second, the first boot can be installed backwards on the axel-for the opposing CV. No collapsing and messing with that one boot, using a screwdriver, etc. Just slip it on and push that boot down the length of the axel for later when you do the opposing CV.
Although I'm working on a "03 Jetta, this video helped me out so much. Didn't even take 15 minutes and I was ready to reassemble. Awesome video, THANK YOU!!!
I think you made a mistske on the inner race. The flat area goes away from the axle, but the thrust raised surface goes toward the axle. On the axle you have a thrist concave washer that presses against the inner race.
I stopped video at 1:35 to explain the star is facing wrong direction.. fyi. The flange/raised center of the star goes away from the wheel or trans... Another words it goes towards the axle. Opposite direction of the 3 lines on the CV race..... 3 years later, hope you've figured it out.
Man I really appreciate this video. I bought a new vehicle axle and when arrived the balls had fell out during the transport here. Had no idea how to get them back in without taking them apart. I had no snap ring pliers so that was not an option. Then I seen your video and with just a little time about 10 minutes I had them all back in and in working order. So they can be put back together while on the axle. Great Video and THANKS AGAIN!
Great video, many thanks. A trick I use is to put a plastic bag over the shaft with a little grease on the outside before you push the boot over the shaft. No risk of damage from the splines, screwdriver etc and it goes on really easily.
Good video. Matt You definitely have some serious experience the first tie my Dad and i repacked VW CV joints it was more like a Laurel and Hardy. Show chasing steel balls with greasy hands all over the garage floor and trying to keep the dirt from getting into the grease with a few cus words of course. ! We had both had some wrenching experience but that was our very first CV joint. On a front wheel drive Rabbit that needed new struts that the VW manual said it must be done by a VW shop My Dad wasn't one to. Go to dealerships for service. And i didnt have the money to repair my newly acquired $ 500.00 used Volkswagen ! The car was parked for a long time in someone's driveway and needed brakes and carb work to get her on the road i used to pedal my bike past. The guys house until one day i saw him outside and asked if he would consider selling that old car in his driveway We towed it home and had it running that day then went at it little at a time untill it was road worthy and looking better that turned out to be the first of many water cooled VWs i owned in my life and like you i wound up getting pretty. Good at repairing them and the systems on them , my true love was. Always British Cars and Honda Motorcycles however my Father. Always had a love for VW since he bought a brand new 58 and 63 Beetle Years earlier and drove the heck out of them as his only car at the time , my Mom told me the 63 Bug had a payment of 67 dollars a month. When they. Bought it but my Dad wanted the power increase with the engine as they drove thru the Catskills Mountains in upstate New York quite often and the 36 horsepower had to work pretty hard to haul every thing in the Bug She said she used to get tired of watching him shift on those trips LOL and only a few weeks ago she showed me a picture of my Dad and the 58 on the day he bought it in front of my Grandparents house ! He told me when he drove it in the city. People would ask lots of questions about the car. As. The engine in the rear was something many people thought was strange at the time
It looks so easy when you know how to do it. I spent about about an hour wrestling the first joint when replacing them last year, what a puzzle. Definitely grease them up after assembling.
+MikeHeu Yeah, they can be a pain, but it's better to repack what you have than buy cheap new ones that start knocking shortly after install (this is a thing I did in my early days and know better now!)
@@Busaru that only work if you inspect & recognize no significant wear. An area you left off this video. Typically after decades of installation the CV parts will show divots in the race surfaces, divots & hard chrome pealing on the balls & sometime cracks on the cage. I dont bother reusing those CV's
Great vid, thanks... but you have made one mistake. At 0:40 you say that the smooth side of the inner race should go TOWARDS the axle... this is wrong. It is that chamfered side which goes towards the axle shaft.
Yes, on the inner: the raised lip will need to be installed towards the axel pressed against the dished spring-washer. The flat side will face AWAY from the axel and have the snap-ring against it on the outside C.V.
Just a little thing that has made my life a little easier. First thing is clean the shit out of the joint and boot with a paper towel after packing and assembly. Then cover the end with a paper towel to keep dust, twigs and your fingers from getting in the grease as you install.
Good tip. I usually pack everything to overflowing l, squeeze it all together, torque down, then clean up. Seems to be the method I always go to these days. Fast, clean, and greasy ;)
One more thought: about a year ago I replaced both axles and all 4 CV's. Got the whole group through O'Reillys for under $115. With a year's warranty. I love your videos by the way. Don't stop.
HI, On the Inner race, you say the smooth side goes towards the axle, and the raised part goes away from axle.. A bunch of other videos show it the other way? Do you know this for sure?? Thanks.
Mine didn’t need redone it just lost a ball bearing or two when I took it out of the car.. man you made this look so much easier then my struggle but maybe because I’m trying this with the boot on and shaft through the middle??
I have a 2004 VW Jetta TDI wagon. It has a rattle or clunk when driving on a bumpy road. I took the car in for a free estimate and assessment of all the maintenance needs. The drivers side CV axel was mentioned as the cause of the rattle when driving on bumpy roads. The replacement CV is only about $80.00 if purchased from the auto parts store. The repair shop wants over $600.00 for the job. After seeing your video I wonder if I could repack the CV joint. Do you have an estimation about how long, how many miles the repacked CV joints run on your VW's?
I accidentally put mine together little hump towards little hump and big hump towards big hump like you show at 1:55 not to do couse Im an idiot..... Is their any way to take it apart again and reassemble it the correct way? Or do I need to buy a new CV joint?
When I've replaced mine, the spring washer stops the joint from going in far enough for the snap ring to slip in. Is it suppose to go in with the flange facing the joint of the shaft?
I agree there is so much contradiction on orientation and assembly of the cv joints. It has been awhile, any issues with the way you assembled and oriented the joints? Thanks.
I build these all the time. Generally I just put them back the way I got them. You can flip the axle so that the force is applied in the opposite way it has been historically but I usually just keep it the same.
That's because it's a T4! The newest transporters are T6. In 20 more years, a T4 will still be identical to your T4 But actually, they did change a little bit over the T4 years. Mostly the engines.
Why does everyone just run it till it breaks anymore? My passat has a couple hundred miles from the 60k service, I plan to do timing belt, not from mileage but from age. And also plan to do cv boots. Not because the boots are bad, because the frigin grease has been in there for 60 thousand miles and it needs new grease.
Busaru , nothing major my friend just the resolution was a bit low , like i said; your previous videos have a very good quality on resolution . thank for responding . Ps , I love your hats .
Two things: First, I put two crisscrossed small strips of electricians tape on the ends of the axels. This makes a smooth surface for the boot to stretch over (and also prevents cutting into the boot). After the boot is on, I remove the tape, of course. Second, the first boot can be installed backwards on the axel-for the opposing CV. No collapsing and messing with that one boot, using a screwdriver, etc. Just slip it on and push that boot down the length of the axel for later when you do the opposing CV.
Although I'm working on a "03 Jetta, this video helped me out so much. Didn't even take 15 minutes and I was ready to reassemble. Awesome video, THANK YOU!!!
Great to hear and thanks for the positive comment.
Thank you, just spent an hour trying to work this out. Back together in no time after your film.
I think you made a mistske on the inner race. The flat area goes away from the axle, but the thrust raised surface goes toward the axle. On the axle you have a thrist concave washer that presses against the inner race.
I stopped video at 1:35 to explain the star is facing wrong direction.. fyi. The flange/raised center of the star goes away from the wheel or trans... Another words it goes towards the axle. Opposite direction of the 3 lines on the CV race.....
3 years later, hope you've figured it out.
Man I really appreciate this video. I bought a new vehicle axle and when arrived the balls had fell out during the transport here. Had no idea how to get them back in without taking them apart. I had no snap ring pliers so that was not an option. Then I seen your video and with just a little time about 10 minutes I had them all back in and in working order. So they can be put back together while on the axle. Great Video and THANKS AGAIN!
I just redid my CV axles after watching this video. Thanks Mick! (Now I'm going to watch the brake videos.....)
Great video, many thanks. A trick I use is to put a plastic bag over the shaft with a little grease on the outside before you push the boot over the shaft. No risk of damage from the splines, screwdriver etc and it goes on really easily.
Good call, I'll be trying that tip next time I do them.
Good video. Matt You definitely have some serious experience the first tie my Dad and i repacked VW CV joints it was more like a
Laurel and Hardy. Show chasing steel balls with greasy hands all over the garage floor and trying to keep the dirt from getting into the grease with a few cus words of course. ! We had both had some wrenching experience but that was our very first CV joint. On a front wheel drive Rabbit that needed new struts that the VW manual said it must be done by a VW shop My Dad wasn't one to. Go to dealerships for service. And i didnt have the money to repair my newly acquired $ 500.00 used Volkswagen ! The car was parked for a long time in someone's driveway and needed brakes and carb work to get her on the road i used to pedal my bike past. The guys house until one day i saw him outside and asked if he would consider selling that old car in his driveway We towed it home and had it running that day then went at it little at a time untill it was road worthy and looking better that turned out to be the first of many water cooled VWs i owned in my life and like you i wound up getting pretty. Good at repairing them and the systems on them , my true love was. Always British Cars and Honda Motorcycles however my Father. Always had a love for VW since he bought a brand new 58 and 63 Beetle Years earlier and drove the heck out of them as his only car at the time , my Mom told me the 63 Bug had a payment of 67 dollars a month. When they. Bought it but my Dad wanted the power increase with the engine as they drove thru the Catskills Mountains in upstate New York quite often and the 36 horsepower had to work pretty hard to haul every thing in the Bug She said she used to get tired of watching him shift on those trips LOL and only a few weeks ago she showed me a picture of my Dad and the 58 on the day he bought it in front of my Grandparents house ! He told me when he drove it in the city. People would ask lots of questions about the car. As. The engine in the rear was something many people thought was strange at the time
It looks so easy when you know how to do it. I spent about about an hour wrestling the first joint when replacing them last year, what a puzzle. Definitely grease them up after assembling.
+MikeHeu Yeah, they can be a pain, but it's better to repack what you have than buy cheap new ones that start knocking shortly after install (this is a thing I did in my early days and know better now!)
@@Busaru that only work if you inspect & recognize no significant wear. An area you left off this video. Typically after decades of installation the CV parts will show divots in the race surfaces, divots & hard chrome pealing on the balls & sometime cracks on the cage. I dont bother reusing those CV's
Great job I have 1997 VW golf axle already, didn't know where grease went.
Warm the boot area that's supposed to slide over the axle with a heat gun and it goes on easily.
Great vid, thanks... but you have made one mistake. At 0:40 you say that the smooth side of the inner race should go TOWARDS the axle... this is wrong. It is that chamfered side which goes towards the axle shaft.
Yes, on the inner: the raised lip will need to be installed towards the axel pressed against the dished spring-washer. The flat side will face AWAY from the axel and have the snap-ring against it on the outside C.V.
Just a little thing that has made my life a little easier. First thing is clean the shit out of the joint and boot with a paper towel after packing and assembly. Then cover the end with a paper towel to keep dust, twigs and your fingers from getting in the grease as you install.
Good tip. I usually pack everything to overflowing l, squeeze it all together, torque down, then clean up. Seems to be the method I always go to these days. Fast, clean, and greasy ;)
One more thought: about a year ago I replaced both axles and all 4 CV's. Got the whole group through O'Reillys for under $115. With a year's warranty. I love your videos by the way. Don't stop.
Thank you, Very helpful stuff.. especially when the Bentley didn’t specify which side the tapered end of cage went on.. 👌🏻👍🏻
Extremely helpful video!!
I'm going to just order the rebuild kit
Shout out from Aztec New Mex. Thanks for the vid!
HI, On the Inner race, you say the smooth side goes towards the axle, and the raised part goes away from axle.. A bunch of other videos show it the other way? Do you know this for sure?? Thanks.
Mine didn’t need redone it just lost a ball bearing or two when I took it out of the car.. man you made this look so much easier then my struggle but maybe because I’m trying this with the boot on and shaft through the middle??
Thank You for the information.. I will be doing mine soon
I have a 2004 VW Jetta TDI wagon. It has a rattle or clunk when driving on a bumpy road. I took the car in for a free estimate and assessment of all the maintenance needs. The drivers side CV axel was mentioned as the cause of the rattle when driving on bumpy roads. The replacement CV is only about $80.00 if purchased from the auto parts store. The repair shop wants over $600.00 for the job. After seeing your video I wonder if I could repack the CV joint. Do you have an estimation about how long, how many miles the repacked CV joints run on your VW's?
I accidentally put mine together little hump towards little hump and big hump towards big hump like you show at 1:55 not to do couse Im an idiot.....
Is their any way to take it apart again and reassemble it the correct way? Or do I need to buy a new CV joint?
Lost some oil from Gear box when disconnect the axle?
Interesting......I've watched a few of these and no one uses anti seize on the threads of the bolts when reinstalling. Any comment about that?
Do you have to clamp the boot down?
Do these style cv axles need rephrasing or clocking?
EXCELLENT informative and instructional (but messy (LOL)) video!!! THANX!!!
Thank you for the video. Bolts can not be lubricated with grease; sealant must be used
+Oleksii Kudriakov Interestong, do you have a sealant that you've used for a while? Throw down some recommendations for all of us.
you are welcome
LOCTITE® 243 for example
If you use grease, the bolts must start to twist off. It is necessary to use new bolts
+Oleksii Kudriakov Thanks for sharing!
Hes right. I use grey silicone for gaskets.
Kit comes with a gasket on later models.
When I've replaced mine, the spring washer stops the joint from going in far enough for the snap ring to slip in. Is it suppose to go in with the flange facing the joint of the shaft?
When trying to put that cv boot on, use an air compressor nozzle, it should pretty much float on haha
I agree there is so much contradiction on orientation and assembly of the cv joints. It has been awhile, any issues with the way you assembled and oriented the joints? Thanks.
I build these all the time. Generally I just put them back the way I got them. You can flip the axle so that the force is applied in the opposite way it has been historically but I usually just keep it the same.
Do you have the part number for the kit?
Hey bro what year is it?
Great video helped me a lot
Looks identical to my t4 20 years later and no change
That's because it's a T4! The newest transporters are T6. In 20 more years, a T4 will still be identical to your T4 But actually, they did change a little bit over the T4 years. Mostly the engines.
Very good video, thank you!
Saved me £170
Why does everyone just run it till it breaks anymore? My passat has a couple hundred miles from the 60k service, I plan to do timing belt, not from mileage but from age. And also plan to do cv boots. Not because the boots are bad, because the frigin grease has been in there for 60 thousand miles and it needs new grease.
That helped a lot man.. thanks
Good video ! Thanks
Ese rodamiento está largo
Nice job. 👍
+abe frohman Thanks mate.
Next time install the bearing then put the grease
Perfect 👌
Please tell me the piece number
Low quality video ; compared with older videos you have. Still.... Great information on how to do the cv axle .
+didier banegas Ouch! Anything in particular you feel was low quality?
Busaru , nothing major my friend just the resolution was a bit low , like i said; your previous videos have a very good quality on resolution . thank for responding .
Ps , I love your hats .
+didier banegas Oh that's interesting. I may have accidentally formatted it in a lower res. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice!
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