I have watched all your videos and loved them. I have the same locomotive I'm building a little further advanced, but love seeing someone doing the same parts and different ideas. Cheers John.
There are 3 points on a locobuild, that are always are my nightmare..... A boiler pressure test A loose but tight fitting drivewirk frame And a fitting piston.... Everything else is just optical detail.... 🤣 Nice work!!!
I agree but would add the coupling rods running reasonably free in the cranks. Many get to this stage and it all binds up, the model then goes under the bench and another gets started, and the same happens again. Lots of frames at this stage for sale online! Thank you for your excellent comment!!
Have had to do all my motion work by hand ,hack saw and filled. With the ends rounded on the lathe LBSC style ! After 7 locomotives finally bought my last model laser cut rods etc . By the way if you’re using laser cut parts I found that you need to heat them to cherry red and let them cool down slowly before you can clean them up with a file. The laser cut makes them really hard . Great video must buy a mill to help me with my work 😊
I did many by hacksaw before getting the mill, it’s not necessarily a time saver but saves a bit of filing! I must be doing the rounded ends wrong LBSC style, it does not work for me! Thanks for the comment!!
Must say rounding the ends lbsc style is a right pain had to add bits of steel a few times to get over slip ups 😆 But it’s not the journey it’s the arrival that counts !
The steel I used was EN3 which is commonly known as bright mild steel (bms). Many modellers use stainless steel due to its anti rust properties, personally, after all the work that goes into them, I never let my locos go rusty! I don’t think it really matters what steel is used in this scale of modelling, the forces involved are not so great that the metallurgy is critical.
I have watched all your videos and loved them. I have the same locomotive I'm building a little further advanced, but love seeing someone doing the same parts and different ideas.
Cheers John.
@@johnturvey3654 Thank you very much. I am glad you are enjoying them. It’s going a bit slow but the videoing doesn’t help! It’s plodding along..
Very nice work. I’m sure this loco is going to be beautiful.
Thank you very much, means a lot from you! If it comes out as good as your lockdown knives I will be very pleased!
There are 3 points on a locobuild, that are always are my nightmare.....
A boiler pressure test
A loose but tight fitting drivewirk frame
And a fitting piston....
Everything else is just optical detail.... 🤣
Nice work!!!
I agree but would add the coupling rods running reasonably free in the cranks. Many get to this stage and it all binds up, the model then goes under the bench and another gets started, and the same happens again. Lots of frames at this stage for sale online! Thank you for your excellent comment!!
Have had to do all my motion work by hand ,hack saw and filled. With the ends rounded on the lathe LBSC style !
After 7 locomotives finally bought my last model laser cut rods etc . By the way if you’re using laser cut parts I found that you need to heat them to cherry red and let them cool down slowly before you can clean them up with a file. The laser cut makes them really hard . Great video must buy a mill to help me with my work 😊
I did many by hacksaw before getting the mill, it’s not necessarily a time saver but saves a bit of filing! I must be doing the rounded ends wrong LBSC style, it does not work for me! Thanks for the comment!!
Must say rounding the ends lbsc style is a right pain had to add bits of steel a few times to get over slip ups 😆 But it’s not the journey it’s the arrival that counts !
@@tonywright8294 Amen to that!
Cheers fir this just heated mine up let em cool and they are cleaning up much better
@@gagasmancave8859 👍
What spec of steel did use ? Does it matter ?
The steel I used was EN3 which is commonly known as bright mild steel (bms). Many modellers use stainless steel due to its anti rust properties, personally, after all the work that goes into them, I never let my locos go rusty! I don’t think it really matters what steel is used in this scale of modelling, the forces involved are not so great that the metallurgy is critical.
Nice video I just working on my coupling rods (I cheated and got them laser cut by model engineering lazer) ( no connection just happy customer)
I don’t blame you, it’s a lot of work, about 35 hours I have spent on these, then it’s about an hour a minute for the video!! Thanks for the comment!
Nice video! Loved the choo choo at the end 😂
@@molluscgaming got to have a choo choo!!😂