Great video! I should have watched it before struggling with my 029 for 2hrs. I couldn’t get my piston back in or the power head separated. I will try that double nut trick. Thank you
*If you need a rugged, heavy duty saw but you are not a full time professional tree cutter this model will fit your needs>>>**ur2.pl/723** It has all the power you will ever need to cut through any type of wood up to about 3 feet in diameter. And it costs about half of what a pro model would and has a compression release to make it easy to start, especially for old timers like me. I have used it for one season so far to cut about 60 cords of hardwood with no problems. Would definitely recommend.*
Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
i am working on rebuilding one of these right now bought it for 30$ and the four bolts that hold the cylinder in are seized and i mean seized broke 2 #27 torx bits any suggestions?
+Zacarias Hernandez There's a video where a guy got lucky and caught his plastic bearings melting away in his MS290 before it destroyed his engine, and he shows how to remove the bearings using heat & a screwdriver (yes, it destroys the bearings, but they're trash already. If someone could find some quality all-metal bearings that would replace the plastic ones, that would be the way to go.
Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
Hi colleague . I'm usually such a puller rented bearings. altaiavto.ru/upload/catalog/c754bd292328ebd1af41a8dffd343544o.jpg Install the inner diameter of the sleeve.
I am disappointed by the absence of needed information at times like when you re-installed the piston without a ring compressor, then the video jumped to the crank completely installed and you spent almost 2 minutes showing how to apply gasket seal to the block body and head assembly ! Felt like you were teaching a ninth grade shop class. I mean, damn... the only people watching this stuff are going to be mechanics already and if you know how to take off a bolt... you know how to apply gasket sealer. Thank you for adding the tip to use "fuel resistant" sealer. That was important for me. I am grateful for the posting though, as it identified the bearing failure, which is what I felt was the problem, but I have never taken one of these apart before. So the step by step has been very helpful. Especially the "long bolt" double nut trick even though it seemed near the end of the extraction the bolt stopped and only the nuts were turning... then the video "jumped" again to the finished task. I would not have thought of that idea myself right away, so thank you. Now I can fix my neighbors chainsaw for him. I truly appreciate this world wide web stuff. I am 69 years old, grew up on a ranch in Wyoming and remember going to the general store to use the telephone that was just a small oak box with a crank and mouthpiece on it and ear cup hanging off the side. That thing was "high tech" for us. Now I have this laptop that can connect me with any information the human community has anywhere on earth. And a device that makes telephone calls that fits in a pocket ! We are living in great times ! For me... the 1964 New York world's fair is "coming to pass" and that is very kool.
Excellent video! Thanks for the SKF part number info. Is there a list of conversions like that somewhere? I'd really run the SKF's I do believe.... I get in trouble for having chainsaws torn down on the kitchen table with my oiled up parts on the ice cube trays! Some people... Like a little two stroke oil is gonna hurt you! I say if it makes your Coke taste funny and a hunk of lemon and four shots whiskey ... That'll fix it! Thanks again !!!
very good! My 029 Farm Boss chain oiler is constantly oozing oil as it runs on idle very slowly and constantly leaks slowly when sitting. What would cause that? I installed a new sprocket and am afraid the notch and pump wire weren`t nesting properly. Thanks
Wow too 'I have to disassemble my McCulloch up to that point. But I would not know how to unscrew the clutch !! Now it is disassembled and not now know how to block the 'tree so as to force the clutch to unscrew it. I built a key with two pins and 'wheelbase is all in all good. I await advice because I would replace both bearings. Greetings.
Can't wait to try this out. Glad I didn't put it in the metal pile with my "froze up" 041 AV. I assume a new piston and head can go back on instead of my old scored piston using the same instructions. Thanks for the confidence boost. I'll post back once I get er done.
+Tonio Skweir Your 041 AV is nothing like the non-pro MS series saws. They were actually built to last & be easy to work on. The only downside to the 40 year old saws is that the parts are getting scarce to find, and collectors are snatching up that part of history when Stihl still produced quality saws built to last for decades..
how much left to right slop is OK on the rod's crank Bearing? I am putting a new farmertec top end on an 029 but I noticed sole axial slop on the rod bearing. no up and down slop but about .030 to .040 left to right slop on the rod bearing on the crank. is this normal or should I get a new crank for it? just wondering
how much left to right slop is OK on the rod's crank Bearing? I am putting a new farmertec top end on an 029 but I noticed sole axial slop on the rod bearing. no up and down slop but about .030 to .040 left to right slop on the rod bearing on the crank. is this normal or should I get a new crank for it?
Got a question. I'm rebuilding a Stihl 029 super. The new cylinder jug does not have the Impulse tube Brass fitting installed on the outer part of the jug. What should I use to keep it in place? I see no threads on either pieces. Like the video by the way.
wow. expected a better material from the Stih brand. I have one on the bench, a 391. Was avoiding these but the customer insisted....so now I have it. Looks like I have to replace the oil pump...and that doesn't look straight forward! While I'm in there is it worth just replacing bearings & seals??
Did you find the larger volume oil pump I saw someone mention would fit these 391's... Or replace with regular. ... Did you switch to SKF's instead of the Stihl bearings?
Bought a 039 that had been scored. Cylinder had very minor scoring but piston/rings needed replacing. One of the bearings didn't sound/feel so great so I ordered new ones. My crank was discolored when I applied heat (MAP gas torch) to take the bearings off - one of them was so stuck on there that I had to destroy the outer race with balls out to get the inner part off. It doesn't appear warped but if there's discoloration, is this indicative of warping?
great video. basically if the chainsaw has never had any work done to it, but has been maintained properly. if the top end goes,chances are you're better off just rebuilding the whole thing? for what I searched online for about $100 you can purchase. the top end kit. clutch assembly and bearings. And even the hoses. on mine the carburetor works perfect I just cleaned it out. if I'm missing something that you would suggest doing while I have mine ripped apart waiting for some parts I appreciate the advice. thanks again
Yes my damn 460 was in use today! Had to go 2 the ol stadby my 310 I bought new in 06 gotta 20 in csrlsn.roller tip n yes I felld 41' in red oak solid not no bark mesrm. I am true believer its always not the saw it's the man's knowledge running it. I found that out today.
Stihl quality sure has gone down the crapper in the last decade. Plastic inside the crank bearings WTH? Probably made in the same factory in China that build their junk zama's.
+Walleye Willy So true, and as the word gets around, those non-pro models are selling used for less & less. Even the 30 year old Farm Boss saws are built infinitely better, and are now selling for more than nearly new MS290s. Aside from the commercial users who make money with their saws & get tax breaks for buying the expensive pro series models, Stihl will lose more & more of the non-professional user market.
My 290 has been acting funny just like you said for the longest time. Today it finally gave up the ghost and won't even run anymore. I'm hoping I can get away with seals and bearings but I'm not optimistic as it feels and sounds different when I pull it over. Thanks for the video though. The dang plastic case really does tick me off.
+heliarche It's not the plastic case that's the problem. It's the ticking time bomb of the plastic crank bearings that will destroy the engine. That's likely what happened to yours, making it more expensive to repair than it would be worth. Even if you paid big $$$ to replace the engine, it too will have the ticking time bomb plastic bearings.
I am a stihl tech you have to use dirko only on the engine pan side in the little grove and you beter hope thoes bearings are high speed I went to a bearing store to get cheaper bearings for a saw I was Working on and thay can't get thoes plus you did not show how to put the seals in and presher test after done
john Kosheluk Same spec and manufacturer on the sealant. Dirko "brand" is not the only spec capable sealant. Bearings are rated to 28k. Your bearing house isn't very knowledgeable. I've done other videos on seals and pressure Vac. Didn't need this one to be 50minutes long. Thanks for watching.
Yes, aftermarket 036 jug and piston fit. I expand the bass a bit. Chamfer the ports and transfers... I have good success with the Hutzl kit ... Less then forty bucks... I lube all these jug and plugs with amsoil builders lube for a solid week before assembled ... I rub them down and throw them in a gallon ziplock when they arrive.... Metals poris and this lube soaks in and fills up the pours... Really works great! I'm a 40:1 dude too... so all my stuff runs long time....
You could big bore to ms 390. new piston new jug all other parts are the same btm pan connecting rod, the carb. It would be more worth it looking at shelf prices.
Any documents to back this up? I can't find any that support the use of Kevlar. SKF and others do state fiber reinforced Polyetheretherketone is used in these high temperature/speed applications. In other words, plastic cages.
BriggsMower Symantec war. Bottom line is they are more susceptible to damage from heat than the metal riveted cages. (plastic caged bearings Killed a few 372/2172's too didn't they? Clutch side heat doesn't help either)
+afleetcommand Bingo! Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
Great video! I should have watched it before struggling with my 029 for 2hrs. I couldn’t get my piston back in or the power head separated. I will try that double nut trick. Thank you
Thanks Dave for the info I like the old 034 it's made well just needs more power respectfully yours
*If you need a rugged, heavy duty saw but you are not a full time professional tree cutter this model will fit your needs>>>**ur2.pl/723** It has all the power you will ever need to cut through any type of wood up to about 3 feet in diameter. And it costs about half of what a pro model would and has a compression release to make it easy to start, especially for old timers like me. I have used it for one season so far to cut about 60 cords of hardwood with no problems. Would definitely recommend.*
nice chain saw!
You need to do more disassembly videos LOL. They`re great for me, shade tree gearhead. Thumbs up.
Great vid!
Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
Solo una consulta Qué pasa cuando la bujía queda floja o srroba la rosca tiene reparo la motosierra?
do you know if the ms 391 has the bearings with plastic race also?
i am working on rebuilding one of these right now bought it for 30$ and the four bolts that hold the cylinder in are seized and i mean seized broke 2 #27 torx bits any suggestions?
I have to replace the fuel line on my MS 310. Any recommendations for who to order one from?
can i change this cylinder and put 660 52mm model on this shaft crank?
No
Have a ms 250 sthil saw, working on the piston, can anyone teach me how to take off bearings? Thanks
+Zacarias Hernandez There's a video where a guy got lucky and caught his plastic bearings melting away in his MS290 before it destroyed his engine, and he shows how to remove the bearings using heat & a screwdriver (yes, it destroys the bearings, but they're trash already. If someone could find some quality all-metal bearings that would replace the plastic ones, that would be the way to go.
Koliko kosta rezervoar goriva za stil 290 ili 390. Hitno je potreban
Ok why did my races cost $8'75' apiece.hmm expensive plastic!
Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
Great video. I'm working on a MS310. Wish I could have seen how you insert the piston/rings and the oil seals, too. Thanks!
STIHL CHAINSAW SERVICE REPAIR MANUALS & ENGINE PARTS CATALOG ON CD
Click here to buy: selz.co/1MkgUBG
why did it cut away when you're getting the piston back in the cylinder ??
Nice but I've NEVER had a bearing come off that easily 😂😂 But still great info 👍🏻
Hi colleague . I'm usually such a puller rented bearings. altaiavto.ru/upload/catalog/c754bd292328ebd1af41a8dffd343544o.jpg
Install the inner diameter of the sleeve.
I am disappointed by the absence of needed information at times like when you re-installed the piston without a ring compressor, then the video jumped to the crank completely installed and you spent almost 2 minutes showing how to apply gasket seal to the block body and head assembly ! Felt like you were teaching a ninth grade shop class. I mean, damn... the only people watching this stuff are going to be mechanics already and if you know how to take off a bolt... you know how to apply gasket sealer.
Thank you for adding the tip to use "fuel resistant" sealer. That was important for me.
I am grateful for the posting though, as it identified the bearing failure, which is what I felt was the problem, but I have never taken one of these apart before. So the step by step has been very helpful. Especially the "long bolt" double nut trick even though it seemed near the end of the extraction the bolt stopped and only the nuts were turning... then the video "jumped" again to the finished task. I would not have thought of that idea myself right away, so thank you. Now I can fix my neighbors chainsaw for him.
I truly appreciate this world wide web stuff. I am 69 years old, grew up on a ranch in Wyoming and remember going to the general store to use the telephone that was just a small oak box with a crank and mouthpiece on it and ear cup hanging off the side. That thing was "high tech" for us.
Now I have this laptop that can connect me with any information the human community has anywhere on earth. And a device that makes telephone calls that fits in a pocket !
We are living in great times !
For me... the 1964 New York world's fair is "coming to pass" and that is very kool.
You can't use a ring compressor on these saws unfortunately.
I was hoping to see how he install the piston on
Please next time try to do that's the part that I was trying to put it back help me out bro
@@concepciondeorienteeljorna67 the bottom of jug is tapered don't need compress rings. And it's just clips and wrist pin. No big deal.
Excellent video! Thanks for the SKF part number info. Is there a list of conversions like that somewhere? I'd really run the SKF's I do believe.... I get in trouble for having chainsaws torn down on the kitchen table with my oiled up parts on the ice cube trays! Some people... Like a little two stroke oil is gonna hurt you! I say if it makes your Coke taste funny and a hunk of lemon and four shots whiskey ... That'll fix it! Thanks again !!!
very good! My 029 Farm Boss chain oiler is constantly oozing oil as it runs on idle very slowly and constantly leaks slowly when sitting. What would cause that? I installed a new sprocket and am afraid the notch and pump wire weren`t nesting properly. Thanks
Wow too 'I have to disassemble my McCulloch up to that point. But I would not know how to unscrew the clutch !! Now it is disassembled and not now know how to block the 'tree so as to force the clutch to unscrew it. I built a key with two pins and 'wheelbase is all in all good. I await advice because I would replace both bearings. Greetings.
Feed a foot of 1/4 rope threw the spark plug hole to stop the stroke! Then your working.😀
Can't wait to try this out. Glad I didn't put it in the metal pile with my "froze up" 041 AV. I assume a new piston and head can go back on instead of my old scored piston using the same instructions. Thanks for the confidence boost. I'll post back once I get er done.
+Tonio Skweir Your 041 AV is nothing like the non-pro MS series saws. They were actually built to last & be easy to work on. The only downside to the 40 year old saws is that the parts are getting scarce to find, and collectors are snatching up that part of history when Stihl still produced quality saws built to last for decades..
Did you rebuild the 041?
Were the new bearings a steel ball cage?
Your videos are very understandable and so much appreciated!
how much left to right slop is OK on the rod's crank Bearing? I am putting a new farmertec top end on an 029 but I noticed sole axial slop on the rod bearing. no up and down slop but about .030 to .040 left to right slop on the rod bearing on the crank. is this normal or should I get a new crank for it? just wondering
how much left to right slop is OK on the rod's crank Bearing? I am putting a new farmertec top end on an 029 but I noticed sole axial slop on the rod bearing. no up and down slop but about .030 to .040 left to right slop on the rod bearing on the crank. is this normal or should I get a new crank for it?
Got a question. I'm rebuilding a Stihl 029 super. The new cylinder jug does not have the Impulse tube Brass fitting installed on the outer part of the jug. What should I use to keep it in place? I see no threads on either pieces. Like the video by the way.
wow. expected a better material from the Stih brand. I have one on the bench, a 391. Was avoiding these but the customer insisted....so now I have it. Looks like I have to replace the oil pump...and that doesn't look straight forward! While I'm in there is it worth just replacing bearings & seals??
Did you find the larger volume oil pump I saw someone mention would fit these 391's... Or replace with regular. ... Did you switch to SKF's instead of the Stihl bearings?
Great video...I've been kicking this saw around for 2 years...I have alittle bit more confidence on trying to rebuild it...thank you
Bought a 039 that had been scored. Cylinder had very minor scoring but piston/rings needed replacing. One of the bearings didn't sound/feel so great so I ordered new ones.
My crank was discolored when I applied heat (MAP gas torch) to take the bearings off - one of them was so stuck on there that I had to destroy the outer race with balls out to get the inner part off. It doesn't appear warped but if there's discoloration, is this indicative of warping?
thank you for showing a simple way on how to remove the bearings mate
great video. basically if the chainsaw has never had any work done to it, but has been maintained properly. if the top end goes,chances are you're better off just rebuilding the whole thing? for what I searched online for about $100 you can purchase. the top end kit. clutch assembly and bearings. And even the hoses. on mine the carburetor works perfect I just cleaned it out. if I'm missing something that you would suggest doing while I have mine ripped apart waiting for some parts I appreciate the advice. thanks again
Yes my damn 460 was in use today! Had to go 2 the ol stadby my 310 I bought new in 06 gotta 20 in csrlsn.roller tip n yes I felld 41' in red oak solid not no bark mesrm. I am true believer its always not the saw it's the man's knowledge running it. I found that out today.
Stihl quality sure has gone down the crapper in the last decade. Plastic inside the crank bearings WTH? Probably made in the same factory in China that build their junk zama's.
+Walleye Willy So true, and as the word gets around, those non-pro models are selling used for less & less. Even the 30 year old Farm Boss saws are built infinitely better, and are now selling for more than nearly new MS290s. Aside from the commercial users who make money with their saws & get tax breaks for buying the expensive pro series models, Stihl will lose more & more of the non-professional user market.
Kinda sad ain't it.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
wat voor olie soort gebruik stihl
Thanks so much! I have a ms310 that's giving me some problems. Will try to take it apart and see what's wrong.
Learning more in these vids than my stihl classes. thanks dude
hi there ust wondering how to get the piston back in the cylinder with the rings do you just push it?
Not sure, never tried to run it as it was traded in this way. Had to have tune issues though.
We'll done great help I was stuck for ages trying to get the cylinder out off frame it wasn't to be a 2 can job turned into a carton cheers
Great video! I am getting ready to tear down a MS 271.
My 290 has been acting funny just like you said for the longest time. Today it finally gave up the ghost and won't even run anymore. I'm hoping I can get away with seals and bearings but I'm not optimistic as it feels and sounds different when I pull it over. Thanks for the video though. The dang plastic case really does tick me off.
***** deal
+heliarche It's not the plastic case that's the problem. It's the ticking time bomb of the plastic crank bearings that will destroy the engine. That's likely what happened to yours, making it more expensive to repair than it would be worth. Even if you paid big $$$ to replace the engine, it too will have the ticking time bomb plastic bearings.
I am a stihl tech you have to use dirko only on the engine pan side in the little grove and you beter hope thoes bearings are high speed I went to a bearing store to get cheaper bearings for a saw I was Working on and thay can't get thoes plus you did not show how to put the seals in and presher test after done
john Kosheluk Same spec and manufacturer on the sealant. Dirko "brand" is not the only spec capable sealant. Bearings are rated to 28k. Your bearing house isn't very knowledgeable. I've done other videos on seals and pressure Vac. Didn't need this one to be 50minutes long. Thanks for watching.
Hey man, was this saw making a chattering noise as it was running with the bad bearings, or did it just have tune problems?
.03-.045
.03-.045"
i bet that plastic cage failed because of the ethanol
can you change a 034 stihl into a larger cc saw Changing the power head and piston ?
Yes, aftermarket 036 jug and piston fit. I expand the bass a bit. Chamfer the ports and transfers... I have good success with the Hutzl kit ... Less then forty bucks... I lube all these jug and plugs with amsoil builders lube for a solid week before assembled ... I rub them down and throw them in a gallon ziplock when they arrive.... Metals poris and this lube soaks in and fills up the pours... Really works great! I'm a 40:1 dude too... so all my stuff runs long time....
Thai is what I thought
ms290 model
Do you put the gasket silicone where the seals seat as well? or just on the flat mating surfaces?
how about a big bore kit for a ms310? is it worth it?
You could big bore to ms 390. new piston new jug all other parts are the same btm pan connecting rod, the carb. It would be more worth it looking at shelf prices.
the races are not plastic there kevlar
Any documents to back this up? I can't find any that support the use of Kevlar. SKF and others do state fiber reinforced Polyetheretherketone is used in these high temperature/speed applications. In other words, plastic cages.
i was told bearings that have plastic looking cages are actually kevlar. but if thats what they say it must be plastic then
BriggsMower Symantec war. Bottom line is they are more susceptible to damage from heat than the metal riveted cages. (plastic caged bearings Killed a few 372/2172's too didn't they? Clutch side heat doesn't help either)
+afleetcommand Bingo! Lots of MS290 & the non-pro MS series saws fail early due to those plastic bearings.. If you don't catch it in time (most don't, unless they get lucky & notice the plastic debris while replacing something else), it'll destroy the entire engine. That's why these new non-pro saws will never last like the old ones did. The conscientious, planned self-destruction of their non-pro saws in a few short years of use is obvious in these new homeowner oriented saws, since quality bearings wouldn't have cost much more to install, and would have provided much longer service life..
This is NOT correct for the MS290
Which part do you take issue with?
is that saw worth the labor to do that
john Kosheluk If you're repairing for personal firewood use, yes. Repair as a service absolutely not.
great video....thanks.
Make sure to run more oil ratio in the first few hours of use after having the crank out. Like 30:1