Lexus IS250 & IS350 Alternator Replace - Charging System Under Or Overcharge? MUST WATCH

Lexus IS350 bad alternator undercharging. Good charging alternator should be 12.7 to 14.3. Under 12.7 is bad alternator and over 14.3 is overcharging.
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[@higginsjoe]

Very good video, well documented, I’ll be tackling mine tomorrow with more confidence after watching your video, thank you ❤

[@PeterHernandez-lg2eh]

This was a big pita. Just subscribed just for this. I removed from a 2011 Lexus is250 awd. Having it rebuilt for $140 at a automotive DC repair shop today.

[@jorgemora7190]

Very good job ac duuu l like it your video thanks

[@brandonspaulding5000]

Nut that was on the bracket on the back of the alternator is a 12 mm

[@niichomaclean1268]

But what is the thread size?

[@brandonspaulding5000]

Not sure. Didn’t think to check since I was just swapping it out with a new one.

[@ItsAlwaysRainingInWa]

Is that voltage range accurate? I thought I had a bad alternator because my battery dropped to 11.32v. Once I charge the battery the car started operating fine but I thought that the volts we're a little bit low still. When shut off the battery reads about 12.7v with it running it goes up to 13.5-13.9v with no lights heat or radio. With lights heat and radio goes down to about 13.2-13.6v
Autozone said the battery and alternator were bad, alternator had a bad diode. But your voltage ratings say otherwise and the car is maintaining a charge...

[@Ah_Duuu_Ma]

With car off, the battery should be above 12v. With the engine idle, alternator should be charging between 13v and up to 14.5v. If you have the radio, ac, lights on and the alternator drop down under 13v, its a bad alternator. Now if you drive the car for 15mins, the alternator should recharge the battery. Leave the car over night and start it again the next day, if it doesn't start and you have to jump it, then its a bad battery.

[@Embrxceyourdemons]

Any further issues with this? I just changed my alternator 3. Months ago and car started dying this week. Tested battery with VMM and it was loosing charging pretty rapidly which led me to think alternator. Tested alternator at advance auto and showed it was bad 7v output only. Put my new one in and still experiencing same issues.

[@Ah_Duuu_Ma]

Check the main fusible link block the alternator terminal, could be burnt or blown (engine bay next to the battery fuse box). Make sure all the alternator wires are good. Check the connector for broken wires, damage or corroded pin inside connector, and check the positive wire on the alternator to battery is not pinch or damage.

[@Embrxceyourdemons]

@@Ah_Duuu_Ma thank you I’m in the process of that right now! Checked the main fuse last night nothing. Visual inspection of wires and pins seems fine. Maybe the ecm. Also noticed my AC light is flashing and compressor is not working possibly thinking that the pulley may be seized causing all the stress on the charging system

[@noisyboy971]

​@@Embrxceyourdemonsnon OEM alternators have been known to have issues

[@magusreborn4684]

@@Embrxceyourdemonsdid you find the issue ?

[@Embrxceyourdemons]

@@magusreborn4684 you won’t belive this but double check your fuse box on the driver side. I was some how missing a fuse to the alternator which also controlled the reverse lights and security system . I forgot the number but yeah. I never found the fuse. Don’t use the diagram on google check your manual or the fuse box diagram it was a red 10 I think. Best of luck. If your car ever doesn’t want to start or turn on at all and has no power or anything your fuel pressure switch has probably gone bad. $30 on amaozn and fixed.