Thank you for the videos. every week it is waiting for us again until you surprise us with a new informative video. could you possibly make a video about the Jacking effect and how to create it best? thank you a loyal fan from the Netherlands
Good day dear friend where to purchase this dial gauge could you please share the link . Highly appriciated your videos and your share of knowledge. You will educate the new generations of karting drivers. Greetings from Greece.
Your videos are really great. Learning so much. About to build my first KA100 on the 2020 Compkart 4R. Curious where to mount the engine to the frame for the best balance. Odenthal 5°. How far from the axle weld or I have heard place the crankshaft centerline over the side pod centerline. Thanks for any tips.
I don't have a 100% correct answer, but I generally use the side pod bar as the centre of the engine mount. mostly it is so I have equal adjustment of the chain tension both forwards and backwards. you can control your weight distribution with lead and your seat position.
Question about the ignition timing. I know TDC is where the main, thick timing mark is and the second thinner mark is an advanced mark. By setting the piston 3 mm ahead of TDC isn’t that setting the timing advanced and hereby should use the TDC mark? By setting the piston advanced by 3 mm AND using the advanced mark isn’t that doubling the amount of timing? Im sure we don’t want too much advance! Love all your videos and have learned so much from them. Keep up the good work!
Hey Doug thanks fir the good vibes! yeah too much advance isn't good, especial double the amount. the thin line is the fire point and you want this to line up with the timing marks on your stator at 3mm before the piston rocks over top dead centre. just ignore the bigger chisel wedge line fore now
What is best timing for ka3 and for ka4? Ive been told they require different timing. And is the squish the same for both classes? Thanks for your help.
Do we need to measure squish at the 2 piston positions where it's above the piston pin to take away any chances of piston rocking that can give us a higher reading for squish?
Hi Andre, I generally don't clean the pistons, only replace them after there service life. to clean the engine, degreaser or brake cleaner work best, normally a little bit of work all the time to avoid the oil burning on the engine
Don't know if the guru agrees here but at times a careful overhaul with a razor blade can do the job on the piston if you're on the track and running tight on time (or just laid down the right amount of hours after a top end job to get it running good). We do that on our mini engines since small kids usually don't carburate on the track and slight build up occurs when jetting isn't optimal.
Christopher Ramnauth great question. Mostly as you lower your squish you raise the compression on these new style engines which you can not modify for technical rules. I have tried a few years ago when the rules were different all sorts of squishes. There are research papers on the net about squish velocities you can search for. Mostly for high performance engines that rev to 15000Rpm or more you want 0.80-1.00mm. If you go too close you crash the piston into the head which is not ideal. Hope that helps
@@IggySport1388 with the Formula Rotax engines, you have to lower the barrel to get the squish down. When you do this the exhaust port duration is shorter (the time the exhaust port is opened to the exhaust pipe by the piston movement). You will have better bottom end power with a low cylinder and better top end power with a higher squish gap, all other things being equal.
Hello PR can you help me with this issue, what happen if the stator is bend? the distance between the 2 magnetos and the rotor are not the same in my case. Thank you so much for your help.
Looking to purchase the extension that you’re using on your dial indicator, and can’t find one for the life of me. Do you know where those can be purchased to work with the Mitutoyo dial indicator?
I have a tm k8 engine but it doesn’t have a keyway for the magneto rotor ln the crank or rotor itself how do know what orientation the magneto should go?!
have you lost the key way ? otherwise you will have to spin up the rotor measure the timing marks. then you can set them with a dial indictor or degree wheel. full mission. get the keyway is my opinion
@@PowerRepublic i’ve not lost the keyway, it just doesn’t have one! There’s no groove for a keyway… its a weird thing for sure. Never seen a crank without a keyway.
@@PowerRepublic Seems a bit much. That's like 30 degrees on the flywheel. Is this kind of adjustment normal on other engines? These small engines use offset flywheel keys to adjust timing, and they are usually tiny amounts of advancement from a degree standpoint. The only way I could see achieving 2.5-3mm would be to remove the flywheel key altogether and run without it. Any ideas or suggestions?
Hey Derek, what’s the timing for KA100 with 2023 restrictor? I just brought a new KA100 and it’s set at 2mm from factory so I’m a bit confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your in the US watching this DO NOT set your timing to 3mm. The rule book says MAX timing of 2.692 mm. Not 3mm. I got disqualified for my timing being 3mm. 😕. I don’t blame derrick for this , I should of read the rule book more carefully. Maybe the rules or clubs in Australia do allow 3mm , but don’t try that shit in the states. Max timing is .106 in. Or 2.692mm. The little difference between this and 3.0mm will get you tossed.
Hi Chris, that sucks man. Yeah here in Australia it is 3.0mm +/- 0.1mm. For any other countries please check your local rules that should look a little something like this www.karting.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Vortex-Mini-Rok-National-Homologation-December-2014.pdf
Hey John, never tried it on a track. 3.0mm is the sweet spot. if you added more for the cadet 9 version it might help, but leave it at 3.0mm and work on your tyre pressures IMO
Hi, for Maxter kz mxs what is the squeeze ??
Can’t thank you enough for these videos.
No worries G Romo
great video again mate! thanks for the simple explanations and rules of thumb.
no problems my friend
Thank you for the videos. every week it is waiting for us again until you surprise us with a new informative video. could you possibly make a video about the Jacking effect and how to create it best? thank you a loyal fan from the Netherlands
I'll add it to the Q&A video this week! Let me know if there is anything else you need answered ?
Good day dear friend where to purchase this dial gauge could you please share the link . Highly appriciated your videos and your share of knowledge. You will educate the new generations of karting drivers. Greetings from Greece.
Your videos are really great. Learning so much. About to build my first KA100 on the 2020 Compkart 4R. Curious where to mount the engine to the frame for the best balance. Odenthal 5°. How far from the axle weld or I have heard place the crankshaft centerline over the side pod centerline. Thanks for any tips.
I don't have a 100% correct answer, but I generally use the side pod bar as the centre of the engine mount. mostly it is so I have equal adjustment of the chain tension both forwards and backwards. you can control your weight distribution with lead and your seat position.
Thank you!!! Heard that and now you’ve confirmed it.
super great video!! I have a question though. what will be the best squish clearance for VORTEX ROK GP engine?
thanks for watching. 1.0mm is the minimum Sq for ROK GP
Question about the ignition timing. I know TDC is where the main, thick timing mark is and the second thinner mark is an advanced mark. By setting the piston 3 mm ahead of TDC isn’t that setting the timing advanced and hereby should use the TDC mark? By setting the piston advanced by 3 mm AND using the advanced mark isn’t that doubling the amount of timing? Im sure we don’t want too much advance!
Love all your videos and have learned so much from them. Keep up the good work!
Hey Doug thanks fir the good vibes!
yeah too much advance isn't good, especial double the amount. the thin line is the fire point and you want this to line up with the timing marks on your stator at 3mm before the piston rocks over top dead centre. just ignore the bigger chisel wedge line fore now
Thanks for the reply! You guys rock!
amazing! thanks for sharing your knowledge man.
your very welcome
I remember using a crushable plastic ( plasigauge ?) to measure bearing clearance 30 years ago,. solder is a similar idea and much easier to find.
Yeah 2.0mm solder is what they use in tech inspection , so best use the same at home
Hi, what would be the ideal timing for vortex rtz for kz class?
I guess it would depend not the track, but 1.6mm -2.0mm max. look for piston crown damage if you advance the timing too far
What is best timing for ka3 and for ka4? Ive been told they require different timing. And is the squish the same for both classes? Thanks for your help.
Hey CNC, 2.7mm for KA3 and 3.1mm for the KA4. Squish we run the same at 1.10mm
In regard to the KT100 used as dirt karting and a heavy driver is there a better oil the the good old 747 castor?
I like to use the Shell M castor oil. But I think the 747 is great oil too
What’s the recommended squish and ring gap for a vortex rok shifter can’t find it anywhere?
Do we need to measure squish at the 2 piston positions where it's above the piston pin to take away any chances of piston rocking that can give us a higher reading for squish?
yes, measure above the piston pin.
What do you use to clean the piston and generally when cleaning the engine?
Hi Andre, I generally don't clean the pistons, only replace them after there service life. to clean the engine, degreaser or brake cleaner work best, normally a little bit of work all the time to avoid the oil burning on the engine
Don't know if the guru agrees here but at times a careful overhaul with a razor blade can do the job on the piston if you're on the track and running tight on time (or just laid down the right amount of hours after a top end job to get it running good). We do that on our mini engines since small kids usually don't carburate on the track and slight build up occurs when jetting isn't optimal.
Hi Derek, can you explain a bit how the squish gap affects performance on 2 stroke if at all?
Christopher Ramnauth great question. Mostly as you lower your squish you raise the compression on these new style engines which you can not modify for technical rules. I have tried a few years ago when the rules were different all sorts of squishes. There are research papers on the net about squish velocities you can search for. Mostly for high performance engines that rev to 15000Rpm or more you want 0.80-1.00mm. If you go too close you crash the piston into the head which is not ideal. Hope that helps
@@PowerRepublic thanks Derek. So for rotax, is this something you can vary as the engine builder to affect performance?
@@IggySport1388 with the Formula Rotax engines, you have to lower the barrel to get the squish down. When you do this the exhaust port duration is shorter (the time the exhaust port is opened to the exhaust pipe by the piston movement). You will have better bottom end power with a low cylinder and better top end power with a higher squish gap, all other things being equal.
Hi Derek, Great videos. From your experience, what’s the ideal ignition timing for both slow tight tracks and a fast flowing one. Thanks.
Hi, what timing do you recommend for ok/okj engines vortex and iame?
Hello PR can you help me with this issue, what happen if the stator is bend? the distance between the 2 magnetos and the rotor are not the same in my case. Thank you so much for your help.
Hey mate, I would replace them with another unit either brand new or used.
@@PowerRepublic thank you so much for your advise. Love your channel
Looking to purchase the extension that you’re using on your dial indicator, and can’t find one for the life of me. Do you know where those can be purchased to work with the Mitutoyo dial indicator?
Hey Michael, sure do, check this out .......
www.sgkarts.com/view-product/TL078/
Power Republic thanks brother. Huge help here!
I have a tm k8 engine but it doesn’t have a keyway for the magneto rotor ln the crank or rotor itself how do know what orientation the magneto should go?!
have you lost the key way ? otherwise you will have to spin up the rotor measure the timing marks. then you can set them with a dial indictor or degree wheel. full mission. get the keyway is my opinion
@@PowerRepublic i’ve not lost the keyway, it just doesn’t have one! There’s no groove for a keyway… its a weird thing for sure. Never seen a crank without a keyway.
What would be the best timing for an IAME M1 60cc?
most likely 2.5-3.0mm as a guess, we don't have them here
@@PowerRepublic Seems a bit much. That's like 30 degrees on the flywheel. Is this kind of adjustment normal on other engines? These small engines use offset flywheel keys to adjust timing, and they are usually tiny amounts of advancement from a degree standpoint. The only way I could see achieving 2.5-3mm would be to remove the flywheel key altogether and run without it. Any ideas or suggestions?
Hi where do you buy 2mm solder? I can only find 1.6, 2.5 and up.
have you tried IKD?
www.internationalkarting.com.au/shop/item/solder-wire-2mm
Hey Derek, what’s the timing for KA100 with 2023 restrictor? I just brought a new KA100 and it’s set at 2mm from factory so I’m a bit confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2.7mm
hello can help me with ignition timing for tm k9c pvl ignition how to setup best timig ?
1.5mm is safe and 2.0mm is probably the upper limit
@@PowerRepublic advance or retured?
@@nikiforosnikiforou9223 advanced
If your in the US watching this DO NOT set your timing to 3mm. The rule book says MAX timing of 2.692 mm. Not 3mm. I got disqualified for my timing being 3mm. 😕. I don’t blame derrick for this , I should of read the rule book more carefully. Maybe the rules or clubs in Australia do allow 3mm , but don’t try that shit in the states. Max timing is .106 in. Or 2.692mm. The little difference between this and 3.0mm will get you tossed.
Hi Chris, that sucks man. Yeah here in Australia it is 3.0mm +/- 0.1mm. For any other countries please check your local rules that should look a little something like this
www.karting.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Vortex-Mini-Rok-National-Homologation-December-2014.pdf
What height of squish should be run on a TM R1 KZ2 Engine?
1.0mm
Hi legends, how can you change the squish. For example 1.2mm to 1.0mm. Amazing video again!!!
Base gaskets mostly. Otherwise copper head gasket change.
@@PowerRepubliccopper head gasket change? I get the cylinder gasket on the base but
If im guessing its instead of the o-ring, between the head, an the cylinder, cooper washer may squash down more than an o-ring
Do you have to run race fuel in these or is pump gas ok?
bp ultimate 98 octane is what we use
@@PowerRepublic thanks for the response! Much appreciated!!
Could you please do this with a kt100 motor
Sure can although it is almost the identical process for checking a Mini ROK
my crg kart won't turn on the reason it doesn't get a good spark you know what could be i try evrything ?
what switch are you using on the battery bracket?
How do adjust the squish? Im a tad confused!
If we forget that 3mm is the rule and not racing competitively. Where is the point of best performance?
Hey John, never tried it on a track. 3.0mm is the sweet spot. if you added more for the cadet 9 version it might help, but leave it at 3.0mm and work on your tyre pressures IMO
what is a good amount of squish to have ?
Willy Renella which engine mate?
Power Republic MiniRok, thanks 🙏
Hi Willy. I set them 0.85mm for the Mini Rok. The limit is 0.80mm measurement with 2mm solder.
Hi, what would be best timing and squish for mini rok engine?