Kaptain, re-watching this again. Really appreciate all your (and other 'Tubers) videos on this subject. Thanks to Covid, stuck inside with little to do. Have a ton of comics and got a press, got a lot of supplies (surprising what you can find at the $ store) and started cleaning and pressing. 100 issues in and only a few mistakes (really, Wolverine #1?) including 80's, 70's and a nice run of Tales of Suspense from the 60's. Great results and really satisfying knowing that you can do it yourself and see such great improvement. Thanks much!
Thanks for the help, Myke, Your info on website and these vids are super helpful. what a great hobby and way to make a few bucks and/or improve collection.
I found your written web tutorial months ago and have gone back to it a hundred times. By far the best info I have found on the process. Thank you so much for that. I have thousands of comics to press so it was invaluable. I'd buy you a beer if you were in my area. I am having issues using the metal plates. I bought the sizes you recommended but it seems my clamshell will not close evenly with either one or 2 plates in the press, so for now I have gone back to the "no plates" method. Any suggestions? Didn't know if maybe a swivel unit press would close more evenly? Furthermore I was curious why some think the expensive Seal press brands are better?
Hello Myke I’m new to your channel and I want to say thank you for putting out this content. I’m fairly new to pressing and from the videos I have seen from your channel are very helpful. Thank you once again.
Hi KaptainMyke. Why do you recommend discarding the backer boards after each use? I am relatively new at this. It can get very expensive if you can’t reuse at all. Your thoughts are appreciated. Dave.
Because you should start with new stacking layers each time. Hair, dirt, and other debris will press divots into book covers. It costs $0.79 cents to press a book. That doesn’t compare to pressing a book worth several hundreds or thousands of dollars. What is exact cost to press a comic book? Exact cost to press a comic book (one time use) · SRP $ .02 · SRP $ .02 · Backer Board $ .16 · Backer Board $ .16 · Backer Board $ .16 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 Total $0.79 one time press Grand total $1.58 flip and repeat
Awesome video. Love your tutorials. I got the pressig down to about 80% but my spine-tick pressing sucks. whats the one video you recommend to address non_color breaking spine ticks?
Nice tutorial video. I noticed that you do the front cover first and then the back cover. I usually do the opposite as I want the radiated heat relaxing my front cover on the first press, then the front cover gets the direct heat on the second press, as well as the continued heat and pressure time for the remainder of the 24 hour cool down.
Exactly! When using plates I place the side which needs the most attention up towards platen. If I am flipping books using no plates I make sure the "worst" side is up towards platen on the final flip.
Hi Myke, did you add humidity to this book ahead of time? Do you recommend 100% of the time adding humidity? Or, can you press without adding moisture beforehand? Thanks for the great videos!
USING HUMIDITY TANKS How do you know if a book is properly humidified inside the humidity tank? A book should feel dry to the fingertouch. If a book feels damp right out of the humidity tank, it is oversaturated. Oversaturated books will become wavy after pressing. If a book forms waves across the top of a bagged/boarded book you may have too much moisture in the air in the room where you store books or press books. Another factor may be that the book is pressed too hot and for too long as well. What we do is all about "adapting to your local environment". So you need a digital hygrometer inside the tank and a digital hygrometer in your pressing room. If the room is above 50% you may have an issue with relative humidity in the room. Books should be stored and pressed in a room that is around 40%. If your numbers are above 40%, you may have to keep your humidity tank lid cracked 1 inch when in use so the inside relative humidity inside tank will level off around 70-80%. If your pressing room is less than 40%, you may need to keep your lid air tight so the inside relative humidity remains at 100% inside the tank. For example, if you live in the desert, you will need more humidity than someone who lives in the Pacific Northwest. If it is not a relative humidity issue, then you may need to press at a lower temperature like 150F for just 5 minutes and then let the book remain in press machine for 24 hours. Flip/repeat the next day using no humidity. Learn how to make a basic humidity tank by watching this video: th-cam.com/video/kYnxNpXMTqk/w-d-xo.html
Kaptain Myke, Thanks for all your great instructions that have served me well. Do you have any tips or advice for pressing the older marvel annuals and "Giant Size" comics? I'm talking about books like 1972 Avengers King Size Special 5 "Along Came A Spider-Man" or 1974 Giant Size "Spider-Man And Dracula" 1. These books have the cover glued on and I was wondering how you might handle pressing these books if at all. Please let me know. Thanks.
Hi There, there are several other videos on YT about Giant Size books. You have to do the backing boards differently due to the way the staples are. IIRC a thick backing board in the back so the staples won't mark the cover. Also use a stack of BBs in your press to emulate the thicker comic, so you'll back off your press pressure a bit. Practice on some old ones!
I just seated pressing and I’ve seen sites and videos that say you can take them out after 3 hours. I’ve been pulling out after 2. It seems to work fine. I’ve seen others say 12 or (like you) 24 hours. Can you please explain the differences? If 2 hours is pressed well why leave for 24?
Books made prior to 2001 should be left in press machine for 24 hours. Books made 2002-Present can be in press machine for 2-3 hours and flipped/repeat. This is based on paper type and weight. If you remove books sooner you will have reversion and wavy pages.
Kaptain, I've really been enjoying your book and appreciate all the tips and suggestions. Have you tried pressing magazines? Bought a Vampirella 1 in GD condition. Front cover is cleaned and I'm working on the much dirtier back right now. Would love to hear your thoughts on if it can be pressed or not. Thanks!
Yes magazines can easily be pressed the same way. Please refer to S2 E7 for pressing prestige and squarebound books, bronze age magazines like Vampirella, etc... you have to protect the spine by placing 1" backer strips alongside outside of spine edge. I would recommend LIFE size magazine backer boards for large size books. Most magazines can be pressed with magazine backer boards, though. Good luck!
Great videos! I was curious why the three backing boards between the hot plate and the book wouldn't insulate the book from the heat and make the pressing less effective?
The middle backer board is used for spine support and staple protection. The outside backer boards are used as an exterior stacking layer of protection against divots and pebbling.
@@kaptainmyke Yes, makes sense, although you were recommending 3 boards between the top plate of the press and the comic (and the silicone paper, obviously), in addition to a board in the middle (for the staples), and then 3 boards on the bottom (6:51 in the video). This seems like a lot of boards (7), and I was wondering whether the boards on the top and bottom would prevent the heat from getting to the comic book.
@@mannyortez04 For beginners, this is to create a flat rigid surface above and below the book. For more experienced users, it is recommended to advance to using 9x12 steel plates instead of 3 boards on top and bottom of book.
do you just use the Absorene eraser by itself or do you use in conjuction with the book cleaner (they sell them on Amazon together or seperate)? sorry if you answer later in the video as I am only 2 minutes in lol
Don't know if this will be answered as this video was 2 years ago. Just wanted to say, love watching your videos. I've learned a lot. Also, bought your book. Very good information in there. I have 2 questions. First is about the SRP paper. Does the glossy side go towards the book. I'm assuming it does. Second is about the press. I have the exact same press as you show in the videos. Like one of the other people who commented, my press also sits lower in the back than the front. I believe it's called a rake. The lower the press is, the more flatter it gets. I'm going to try loosening the front bolts to see if that works. Just wondering if you had to modify yours in that way. Sorry so long.
You must use a different SRP than suggested. The recommended SRP is coated on both sides. For fixing the "rake" problem of your press machine as you mention, you will need to join our free facebook group as there is a very detailed post about how to fix your press machine in the pinned announcements posts. It is far too detailed with photos and specifics than to type in the comments section of TH-cam.
Ok, just ordered a press, stainless steel plates, magazine size bag and boards. I own a bakery, so I will bring home some gloves and SRP paper. My question to you @KaptainMyke is this: You state multiple times to press for 5 minutes and flip the book and press for another 5 minutes. If using steel plates, there is no need to flip. Does this mean that I should heat for 5 minutes with the steel plates or 10 minutes before turning off the press? Question #2: Is 24 hours absolutely necessary for most moderns? That means that I could, at most, press 365 books a year with 1 press. Many folks online are saying about 3 hours is all that's necessary. Thoughts?
That's a complicated answer. This video covers the basics to understanding the mechanics and method. As you dive more into pressing and learn the process, you will discover many different variables and methods that apply. Depends on the defects, the paper type, the press machine and the era of modern. If using a clamshell press, you can quickpress glossy pages and glossy covers 2002-Present at 155-165F for 300 seconds and flip 2 hours later, repeat and remove 2 hours after that. This is so you press half the book and then you flip to press the other half. This prevents fusing the pages together and melting the book into a brick. (Which is permanent damage). To play it safer, press at a lower temperature such as 150F for 5-10 minutes. During hot summer months I'd say make that 2.5 hours, flip repeat, 2.5 hours later remove. If using a Seal dry mount laminating press machine you would preheat the machine for 10 minutes and press at 150F for 60 seconds and shut off machine and flip and repeat 2-3 hours later and remove 2-3 hours after that. For modern books 1991-2001, you would want to press for 10 minutes and remove 24 hours later. Flip, Repeat, remove 24 hours after that. If you remove books too soon you will have reversion a month or 2 later or sooner. Please join our free facebook group to find out more. This information is posted in the announcements and using the search feature in our group. facebook.com/groups/kaptainmykecomicpressing/
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USING STEEL OR ALUMINUM PLATES? Working with different types of metal plates can produce different varying results. Adapt to your local environment and figure what works best for you and the type of work you do on comic books. I typically use 9x12 cold rolled pressed steel plates on most comics. I will switch to aluminum plates when practicing stain removal techniques on golden and silver age comics. Aluminum plates can develop lifting pages and covers too - if removed too soon, due to the slower cooldown times. You may have to lower the heat or remove from press machine at a later predetermined time. Aluminum Plates = most conductive (heats up faster, cools slower) Cold Rolled Steel Plates = 2nd conductive (heats up normally but cools faster and can develop rust spots when working with stain removal processes or misting) Stainless Steel Plates = 3rd least conductive (heats up normally but cools faster)
Well I looked. Couldn’t find any video. Picked up a beautiful copy of Zelda 1990. No price variant. But the comic book shop used a price gun to put a price sticker on it. Any tips on how to safely remove a price sticker from 30 years ago?
Sticker removal is hit or miss. Depends on the age of the sticker, the adhesive, what type of adhesive, location of sticker, what's underneath sticker, etc., There are lots and lots of uncontrollable and unknown variables. Un-Du and Goo Gone are the most recommended for this application. I would use only a tiny tiny drop of either product on a Q-tip. Avoid plastic scrapers when using these products. Un-Du Original Formula Sticker Removal: www.kaptainmyke.com/products/undu Goo Gone Goo and Adhesive Remover: www.kaptainmyke.com/products/googone
Hi Myke, I bought a used Seal 160M. It does not appear to have that dial at the top to adjust downward pressure onto the comic. What would I do with Seal pressers? Much appreciated!
Sometimes region and climate can impact your results. Try lowering your heat temperature, and possibly lower duration as well. Try 150F for 10 minutes.
What brand clamshell do you recommend? Is the promo heat model on ebay good to use (Heat Press T-Shirt Heat Transfer Sublimation Machine 15" x 15" Clamshell - Black)? It costs $179.99.
Yes due to paper type - for books 1948-2001, the results are more favorable and reversion is unlikely to happen. For books 2002 to present you do not typically have to use a humidity tank.
Now how do we press without an actual heat presser? Can’t we just place a stiff hard cover book over a comic on a flat surface then with a bunch of weight put on top of it use these other methods you suggested? Then maybe leave it a week or so?
Heat is necessary to expand the paper fibers and retain new muscle memory. You can try stacking heavy objects on top of book but I would not suggest it - would have to be left like that for months without heat. It might cause a spine roll from getting a stacking curl. You also have to consider that the staples and spine could get crushed without the support of a backer board at the centerfold.
Question...I ordered a press as recommended and noticed when pressing the metal plate does not touch the top platen evenly. The metal plate area closest to the handle is a few millimeters away from the platen while the rest of the metal plates touch. Is there a way to fix this? Will this be a problem? Thanks!
The surface should be even front and back of unit. I would return the unit if possible. Another thing to try is loosen the bottom front 2 bolts so there is flex with the bottom plate so it matches the top platen more evenly.
Do not reuse stacking layers. Once and done. This prevents creaselines, color breaks, divots and "pebbling". Contaminants such as hair, dirt, and dust will cause damage.
A maverick page is when there is a miscut of a larger sheet of paper hanging outside the edges of comic book. Most people are tempted to trim it or fold it over inside the book.
Try lowering your heat temperature, and possibly lower duration as well. Try 150F for 10 minutes. Then leave alone inside locked press machine for 24 hours.
I use Teflon sheets instead of SRP. Any Pros and Con? These are the ones I use www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H55M1ZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a complete comprehensive list of recommend products, please go to www.kaptainmyke.com/products
Update: CGC has graded this comic book 9.8 on 12/18/2018
Good feeling to put the work in then get the grade !
Kaptain, re-watching this again. Really appreciate all your (and other 'Tubers) videos on this subject. Thanks to Covid, stuck inside with little to do. Have a ton of comics and got a press, got a lot of supplies (surprising what you can find at the $ store) and started cleaning and pressing. 100 issues in and only a few mistakes (really, Wolverine #1?) including 80's, 70's and a nice run of Tales of Suspense from the 60's. Great results and really satisfying knowing that you can do it yourself and see such great improvement. Thanks much!
Thank you for the kind words - it's very much appreciated
Thanks for all the tips Kaptain. Recieved 4 - 9.8 on my first submissions thanks to your tips!
That's great to hear - congrats!
Thanks for the help, Myke, Your info on website and these vids are super helpful. what a great hobby and way to make a few bucks and/or improve collection.
I found your written web tutorial months ago and have gone back to it a hundred times. By far the best info I have found on the process. Thank you so much for that. I have thousands of comics to press so it was invaluable. I'd buy you a beer if you were in my area. I am having issues using the metal plates. I bought the sizes you recommended but it seems my clamshell will not close evenly with either one or 2 plates in the press, so for now I have gone back to the "no plates" method. Any suggestions? Didn't know if maybe a swivel unit press would close more evenly? Furthermore I was curious why some think the expensive Seal press brands are better?
Your press machine platen may not be even and perfectly level. Using 2 plates actually corrects any uneven platens and imperfections.
Hello Myke I’m new to your channel and I want to say thank you for putting out this content. I’m fairly new to pressing and from the videos I have seen from your channel are very helpful. Thank you once again.
Thank you I appreciate that :)
Hi KaptainMyke. Why do you recommend discarding the backer boards after each use? I am relatively new at this. It can get very expensive if you can’t reuse at all. Your thoughts are appreciated. Dave.
Because you should start with new stacking layers each time. Hair, dirt, and other debris will press divots into book covers. It costs $0.79 cents to press a book. That doesn’t compare to pressing a book worth several hundreds or thousands of dollars.
What is exact cost to press a comic book?
Exact cost to press a comic book (one time use)
· SRP $ .02
· SRP $ .02
· Backer Board $ .16
· Backer Board $ .16
· Backer Board $ .16
· 65 lb cardstock $ .09
· 65 lb cardstock $ .09
· 65 lb cardstock $ .09
Total $0.79 one time press
Grand total $1.58 flip and repeat
@@kaptainmyke Thank you for the very detailed response. I appreciate your help.
Awesome video. Love your tutorials. I got the pressig down to about 80% but my spine-tick pressing sucks. whats the one video you recommend to address non_color breaking spine ticks?
Season 2, Episode 2 :)
Nice tutorial video. I noticed that you do the front cover first and then the back cover. I usually do the opposite as I want the radiated heat relaxing my front cover on the first press, then the front cover gets the direct heat on the second press, as well as the continued heat and pressure time for the remainder of the 24 hour cool down.
Exactly! When using plates I place the side which needs the most attention up towards platen. If I am flipping books using no plates I make sure the "worst" side is up towards platen on the final flip.
Hi Myke, did you add humidity to this book ahead of time? Do you recommend 100% of the time adding humidity? Or, can you press without adding moisture beforehand? Thanks for the great videos!
USING HUMIDITY TANKS
How do you know if a book is properly humidified inside the humidity tank? A book should feel dry to the fingertouch. If a book feels damp right out of the humidity tank, it is oversaturated. Oversaturated books will become wavy after pressing. If a book forms waves across the top of a bagged/boarded book you may have too much moisture in the air in the room where you store books or press books. Another factor may be that the book is pressed too hot and for too long as well. What we do is all about "adapting to your local environment". So you need a digital hygrometer inside the tank and a digital hygrometer in your pressing room. If the room is above 50% you may have an issue with relative humidity in the room. Books should be stored and pressed in a room that is around 40%. If your numbers are above 40%, you may have to keep your humidity tank lid cracked 1 inch when in use so the inside relative humidity inside tank will level off around 70-80%. If your pressing room is less than 40%, you may need to keep your lid air tight so the inside relative humidity remains at 100% inside the tank. For example, if you live in the desert, you will need more humidity than someone who lives in the Pacific Northwest. If it is not a relative humidity issue, then you may need to press at a lower temperature like 150F for just 5 minutes and then let the book remain in press machine for 24 hours. Flip/repeat the next day using no humidity. Learn how to make a basic humidity tank by watching this video: th-cam.com/video/kYnxNpXMTqk/w-d-xo.html
Kaptain Myke,
Thanks for all your great instructions that have served me well. Do you have any tips or advice for pressing the older marvel annuals and "Giant Size" comics? I'm talking about books like 1972 Avengers King Size Special 5 "Along Came A Spider-Man" or 1974 Giant Size "Spider-Man And Dracula" 1.
These books have the cover glued on and I was wondering how you might handle pressing these books if at all.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
Hi There, there are several other videos on YT about Giant Size books. You have to do the backing boards differently due to the way the staples are. IIRC a thick backing board in the back so the staples won't mark the cover. Also use a stack of BBs in your press to emulate the thicker comic, so you'll back off your press pressure a bit. Practice on some old ones!
@@RonJibs Thanks!
I just seated pressing and I’ve seen sites and videos that say you can take them out after 3 hours. I’ve been pulling out after 2. It seems to work fine. I’ve seen others say 12 or (like you) 24 hours. Can you please explain the differences? If 2 hours is pressed well why leave for 24?
Books made prior to 2001 should be left in press machine for 24 hours. Books made 2002-Present can be in press machine for 2-3 hours and flipped/repeat. This is based on paper type and weight. If you remove books sooner you will have reversion and wavy pages.
This book has now been received back from CGC and was graded 9.8 NM on 12/18/2018: bit.ly/2GFxNwT (Photos)
Kaptain, I've really been enjoying your book and appreciate all the tips and suggestions. Have you tried pressing magazines? Bought a Vampirella 1 in GD condition. Front cover is cleaned and I'm working on the much dirtier back right now. Would love to hear your thoughts on if it can be pressed or not. Thanks!
Yes magazines can easily be pressed the same way. Please refer to S2 E7 for pressing prestige and squarebound books, bronze age magazines like Vampirella, etc... you have to protect the spine by placing 1" backer strips alongside outside of spine edge. I would recommend LIFE size magazine backer boards for large size books. Most magazines can be pressed with magazine backer boards, though. Good luck!
Great videos! I was curious why the three backing boards between the hot plate and the book wouldn't insulate the book from the heat and make the pressing less effective?
The middle backer board is used for spine support and staple protection. The outside backer boards are used as an exterior stacking layer of protection against divots and pebbling.
@@kaptainmyke Yes, makes sense, although you were recommending 3 boards between the top plate of the press and the comic (and the silicone paper, obviously), in addition to a board in the middle (for the staples), and then 3 boards on the bottom (6:51 in the video). This seems like a lot of boards (7), and I was wondering whether the boards on the top and bottom would prevent the heat from getting to the comic book.
@@mannyortez04 For beginners, this is to create a flat rigid surface above and below the book. For more experienced users, it is recommended to advance to using 9x12 steel plates instead of 3 boards on top and bottom of book.
do you just use the Absorene eraser by itself or do you use in conjuction with the book cleaner (they sell them on Amazon together or seperate)? sorry if you answer later in the video as I am only 2 minutes in lol
Alternating back and forth between various tools in your toolbox will provide effective results
Don't know if this will be answered as this video was 2 years ago. Just wanted to say, love watching your videos. I've learned a lot. Also, bought your book. Very good information in there. I have 2 questions. First is about the SRP paper. Does the glossy side go towards the book. I'm assuming it does. Second is about the press. I have the exact same press as you show in the videos. Like one of the other people who commented, my press also sits lower in the back than the front. I believe it's called a rake. The lower the press is, the more flatter it gets. I'm going to try loosening the front bolts to see if that works. Just wondering if you had to modify yours in that way. Sorry so long.
You must use a different SRP than suggested. The recommended SRP is coated on both sides. For fixing the "rake" problem of your press machine as you mention, you will need to join our free facebook group as there is a very detailed post about how to fix your press machine in the pinned announcements posts. It is far too detailed with photos and specifics than to type in the comments section of TH-cam.
When you say a blackboard. You mean a chalk board? And what did you use to sand down the press machine?
No, blackboard from the office supplies at Walmart - but a black chalkboard works great with some led lights too
I used sanding blocks from Home Depot - small medium and fine grit
nice work!
Ok, just ordered a press, stainless steel plates, magazine size bag and boards. I own a bakery, so I will bring home some gloves and SRP paper. My question to you @KaptainMyke is this: You state multiple times to press for 5 minutes and flip the book and press for another 5 minutes. If using steel plates, there is no need to flip. Does this mean that I should heat for 5 minutes with the steel plates or 10 minutes before turning off the press?
Question #2: Is 24 hours absolutely necessary for most moderns? That means that I could, at most, press 365 books a year with 1 press. Many folks online are saying about 3 hours is all that's necessary. Thoughts?
That's a complicated answer. This video covers the basics to understanding the mechanics and method. As you dive more into pressing and learn the process, you will discover many different variables and methods that apply. Depends on the defects, the paper type, the press machine and the era of modern. If using a clamshell press, you can quickpress glossy pages and glossy covers 2002-Present at 155-165F for 300 seconds and flip 2 hours later, repeat and remove 2 hours after that. This is so you press half the book and then you flip to press the other half. This prevents fusing the pages together and melting the book into a brick. (Which is permanent damage). To play it safer, press at a lower temperature such as 150F for 5-10 minutes. During hot summer months I'd say make that 2.5 hours, flip repeat, 2.5 hours later remove. If using a Seal dry mount laminating press machine you would preheat the machine for 10 minutes and press at 150F for 60 seconds and shut off machine and flip and repeat 2-3 hours later and remove 2-3 hours after that. For modern books 1991-2001, you would want to press for 10 minutes and remove 24 hours later. Flip, Repeat, remove 24 hours after that. If you remove books too soon you will have reversion a month or 2 later or sooner. Please join our free facebook group to find out more. This information is posted in the announcements and using the search feature in our group. facebook.com/groups/kaptainmykecomicpressing/
I’m a beginner pressing modern books. Does it matter whether or not I use aluminum or steel plates for the press?
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USING STEEL OR ALUMINUM PLATES?
Working with different types of metal plates can produce different varying results. Adapt to your local environment and figure what works best for you and the type of work you do on comic books. I typically use 9x12 cold rolled pressed steel plates on most comics. I will switch to aluminum plates when practicing stain removal techniques on golden and silver age comics. Aluminum plates can develop lifting pages and covers too - if removed too soon, due to the slower cooldown times. You may have to lower the heat or remove from press machine at a later predetermined time.
Aluminum Plates = most conductive (heats up faster, cools slower)
Cold Rolled Steel Plates = 2nd conductive (heats up normally but cools faster and can develop rust spots when working with stain removal processes or misting)
Stainless Steel Plates = 3rd least conductive (heats up normally but cools faster)
I have a foil cover Spiderman comic with the first appearance of Spiderman 2099 can the book get humidified and pressed
Baddream Pacino yep everything should press fine 👍
Well I looked. Couldn’t find any video. Picked up a beautiful copy of Zelda 1990. No price variant. But the comic book shop used a price gun to put a price sticker on it. Any tips on how to safely remove a price sticker from 30 years ago?
Sticker removal is hit or miss. Depends on the age of the sticker, the adhesive, what type of adhesive, location of sticker, what's underneath sticker, etc., There are lots and lots of uncontrollable and unknown variables. Un-Du and Goo Gone are the most recommended for this application. I would use only a tiny tiny drop of either product on a Q-tip. Avoid plastic scrapers when using these products.
Un-Du Original Formula Sticker Removal: www.kaptainmyke.com/products/undu
Goo Gone Goo and Adhesive Remover: www.kaptainmyke.com/products/googone
Hi Myke, I bought a used Seal 160M. It does not appear to have that dial at the top to adjust downward pressure onto the comic. What would I do with Seal pressers? Much appreciated!
Jae Kim join our Facebook group to have all your questions answered thanks 🙂
I pressed some comics and they look great but the pages are now puckering...can I fix this?
Sometimes region and climate can impact your results. Try lowering your heat temperature, and possibly lower duration as well. Try 150F for 10 minutes.
What brand clamshell do you recommend? Is the promo heat model on ebay good to use (Heat Press T-Shirt Heat Transfer Sublimation Machine 15" x 15" Clamshell - Black)? It costs $179.99.
Any 15x15" clamshell press with digital controls on ebay with the red silicone mat on bottom will work for $150-$180
Do you have to humidify the comic before doing this process?
Yes due to paper type - for books 1948-2001, the results are more favorable and reversion is unlikely to happen. For books 2002 to present you do not typically have to use a humidity tank.
Now how do we press without an actual heat presser? Can’t we just place a stiff hard cover book over a comic on a flat surface then with a bunch of weight put on top of it use these other methods you suggested? Then maybe leave it a week or so?
Heat is necessary to expand the paper fibers and retain new muscle memory. You can try stacking heavy objects on top of book but I would not suggest it - would have to be left like that for months without heat. It might cause a spine roll from getting a stacking curl. You also have to consider that the staples and spine could get crushed without the support of a backer board at the centerfold.
Question...I ordered a press as recommended and noticed when pressing the metal plate does not touch the top platen evenly. The metal plate area closest to the handle is a few millimeters away from the platen while the rest of the metal plates touch. Is there a way to fix this? Will this be a problem? Thanks!
The surface should be even front and back of unit. I would return the unit if possible. Another thing to try is loosen the bottom front 2 bolts so there is flex with the bottom plate so it matches the top platen more evenly.
@@kaptainmyke I can't imagine shipping it back nowadays. I'll look into seeing if I can loosen the bolts like you suggested. Thanks!
@@kaptainmyke I think loosening the bolts are going to work. Thank you.
Can you provide a link to buy SRP Paper ?
Yes links are posted for supplies in the description of video above :)
Why can't you reuse the backer boards after each use?
Do not reuse stacking layers. Once and done. This prevents creaselines, color breaks, divots and "pebbling". Contaminants such as hair, dirt, and dust will cause damage.
What is a "maverick?"
A maverick page is when there is a miscut of a larger sheet of paper hanging outside the edges of comic book. Most people are tempted to trim it or fold it over inside the book.
*COVER
How do I get rid of the wavy pages?
tar leaven leave in in the press til it cools down.
Try lowering your heat temperature, and possibly lower duration as well. Try 150F for 10 minutes. Then leave alone inside locked press machine for 24 hours.
I use Teflon sheets instead of SRP. Any Pros and Con? These are the ones I use www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H55M1ZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What did you record this in 8mm film the video has no audio and it is jumpy thanks anyway i did learn something.