Been using this board for a while…built decks, radar arches, center consoles. It’s pretty good stuff if you want to use it for contouring shapes. Score the panel every 1/2”-1”, this will allow the panel to bend, fair, fill and glass.
Thanks for sharing video. This process is a bettercost effective way than buying panels and plastic honeycomb is better than cardboard honeycomb. Filling the edges and staggering joint method is a great idea!
Nicely done. I am sold on this material for strength, rigidity, and relative cost-effectiveness. I researched these materials extensively a few years ago, and conducted many experiments thereafter. Two comments: WATER INTRUSION: Plastic honeycomb has a troubled reputation for boatbuilding where water intrusion is possible (hulls). First, know that the plastic (core) does not bond well to polyester or epoxy resins, instead, the resin bonds to the "skin" which is a polyester-impregnated cloth. When it happens, the fiberglass wall (including the skim cloth) separates from the plastic core and water enters through the separation, essentially filling all the cells therein. It's not a deal-breaker but rather means that any penetration or crack is a vulnerability and must be repaired/resealed immediately. EDGEWORK: It was good observing the attention to the edges because the edges are among the weakest parts of the final assembly. I am not familiar with the epoxy putty used but I would be a little concerned about bonding between the plastic core material and the epoxy putty (often weak bond results). One way to overcome this issue is to "activate" the surface of the exposed plastic core using the activator found in Loctite 2-part "Plastic Bonder" with a plastic-specific adhesive such Devcon Plastic Weld or a methyl-methacrylate (MMA) construction adhesive. All that is needed is a thin coat because (epoxy) resin bonds fine to the adhesive. I make 100% strong edges and bond sheets this way. YMMV. Good luck!
Yeah, the core is made out of polypropylene which has a low surface energy and not much bonds to it well. Definitely need to alter it. Cold plasma treatment can also help to make the surface more bondable. You might be able to use a low temp hot glue, but that would need to be tested well before even trying.
Thanks! I’ve been using honeycomb/fiberglass panels I bought at Boeing Surplus 30 years ago. No more of those available, and new 4x8 panels cost $1800 ! So I may give your method a try.
Great Job. Other alternatives are very expensive like coosa. Plywood is heavy and prone to water absorption. Looks like you have the best of both worlds.
For things that will not be in the sun, you can put one layer of 4 oz surfboard glasscloth over the honeycomb with polyester resin or epoxy, then go over that with the clear countertop epoxy. Use a torch to break any bubbles and keep dust away until it hardens. All the resin and glass become transparent and you clearly see the honeycomb pattern in the part. I did some ceiling panels and a countertop with honeycomb and countertop epoxy and the 3-D honeycomb looks awesome! You can't use it for anything that will be in the ultraviolet because that will make the countertop epoxy get all alligator-skin.
I didn't have the patience to watch the whole video, but I did skim through it hoping to find info about where this honeycomb material is available, and how expensive it is. I don't see any links in the video description on where I can get it.
I am pricing out my costs, can you give an estimate of how much resin is needed per side of a 4X8 sheet of honey comb with the biaxial cloth. Great video, thanks.
Good tutorial. I do have a suggestion: instead of wetting out the Matt cloth on the honeycomb or cardboard, use some plastic sheeting laid out flat, wet it out, then squeegee out the excess, then lay it on the honeycomb that has been wet out. This way you cut down the weight with no loss of strength. Roll it like normal to get good contact.
I'm building a tiny "airstream" trailer to pull behind my ebike- a 1 person sleeper. it's just just skeleton so far,, but I'm planning on using two layers of this stuff to stiffen and sandwich 1" rigid foam insulation, with maybe a heated floor mat and vinyl flooring on top. also considering using it vertically as a wall finish. it strikes me that since it's translucent, it might be cool to edge light the honeycomb with LED strips.
@@travismiller5548 interesting... I was thinking the 1/2"panel - 1"foam - 1/2"panel would be perfect for factory RV windows in my lightweight truck camper that I am planning. I also like the flexibility of the 1/2" over the 1" Nidacore. I am wondering what to do on the corners I really don't want to use wood... might be an idea to make a fibreglass angle the profile of the side (I have seen a project where they used aluminum angle but would be cool to go all glass and honeycomb
Curious why you chose this over say XPS foam panels? If you take 1/2" thick XPS foam sheets and put (lower weight) fiberglass on each side of each panel and then put them together, it becomes very strong and stiff. You do have to scruff up the surfaces really well though.
This looks about perfect for building my little folding camping boat, whose largest panel is 4:5'/137cm x 1'/30cm. Your tutorial has really helped and inspired me as weight is important as this will be towed as a bicycle trailer on the road. Push button Q/R axles (as fitted to wheelchairs) will take Brompton 16' wheels, a Q/R towbar attaches to the bow. The tailer size is 4:5'/137cm long x 2'6"/76cm wide x 2'/60cm high, and when unfolded the boat will be 9'/274cm long x 2'6"/76cm wide x 1'/30cm high. Kayak paddle or small outboard motor for propulsion. The weight saving will be significant over marine plywood, and this method provides additional flotation and insulation. A collapsible/folding cabin provides sheltered sitting and sleeping space.
That bondo glass is great stough I built a covetable truck for my sons in high school I shaved out the tail lights on it useing fiberglass mesh fiberglass and bondo glass ten years later it was still perfect also used marine tex on the convertible top kit super strong stough!!!
Great job and I like the way you have shown diagrams of the different joints etc . I want to remove my splash well to make more deck space and will need to make some support walls . I will use your principles with 1" foan core . Thanks again for both the ideas and the methods .
@@DIYeasycrafts Very cool, now since it has been on some time how has it held up with people walking/standing on it.. I got grand kids that could brake an anvil so need something thats not going to crap out
thankyou ,very Informative videoes i am almost 60years of age and i bought my first boat before my first Car ! over the years i’ve owned 17or 18 boats of all sizes ,Makes ,and Models as Well as Materials you make using the Honeycomb board a lot easier than it really is but you definitely offer some great advice and Tips , i myself am now retired and i did ProfessionalWoodworking Professionally for over 35 years watching you cut out the HoneyComb boards with the Oscillating tool can be accomplished much faster with a Router and some simple Jigs for that Router a good group of Reasons for this is because of the many different Routers and Bits Available and Used inThe Woodworking Industry they are also IMO reasonably priced and Available along with providing excellent Accuracy with Speed , for myself being Retired i’m probably going tom”Binge” watch your channel in preparation for my next Boat Project I grew up inFlorida , and am in the Process of moving back there soon as my grownChildren and Grandchildren reside there now and we do have plans on either Restoring or Building a Vessel as you stated using any type of Plywood Core usually does fail over time and with the Pricing of most Pywoods compared to the Honey Comb Core Board it just makes more and more sense to have that as the GoTo method as opposed to a Cold Molded Process and in all Honesty i’ve gone down the AllWood TraditionalHonduras Mahogany Boat route yes they are Beautifull in many ways but i like being out onmy Boats not always working on them , so i admit i committed the CardinalBoaters Sin before i listed the Woody for Sale i already purchased. a newer ,repo we’re Sport Fisher Plastic (Fiberglass ) boat as my main Cruising and Fishing Vessel
Well this stuff is readily available but this is cheaper and it's better and safer to work with than Aramid Phenolic honeycomb...stuff is bad for you. As far as removing honeycomb goes, in the Air Force and other aircraft industries we'd use a 90° scriber tool in a drill which allows you to remove material below the sheet and we'd fill with microballoons (it's very strong and very light). You're doing great work here for the DIYer.
Came across this., would work for a lithium prismatic enclosure to build a box. Van build. I am a fan of 1708, probably overkill. The more an RV is built like a boat, the better.
You've probably already walked on similar panels, but with a paper honeycomb. I'm looking to build a DIY boat and plywood is expensive now. If I'm reading specs correctly, a same size sandwich of this stuff should be several times as strong as the plywood.
Curious on suppliers, we are landlocked so not a lot of boat repair supply places close by. I want to rebuild a couple seats in my ski boat ones is a 80 in who makes the off brand honeycomb?
Thank you for tutorial, Do you think you think it could be used to build furniture, like kitchen cabinets? Can it be coated to look premium? What is the weight difference between this and plywood?
The sheet is covered in fabric on both sides. Im sure if you soaked it in resin you could get holes to fill up but it would be hard. I did not have a problem even using a generous amount of resin on a roller
Came across your video by accident. Do you have any insight into its strength in compression edge to edge. I need to fill a gap between a hollow formed by a vehicle's fiberglass body molding. Think of it as wanting to use the honeycomb vertically replacing the straight line of the letter D
The honecomb is made to adhere to fiberglass so adhesion is not an issue. it also will not soak up water so hopefully will last for years with out becoming heavy and delaminating.
Cheaper now than plywood of equivalent thickness. But best find a place relatively close by that allows you to pick up the product, because shipping tends to be extremely high with these large, 48" x 96" panels---several times higher than the cost of the actual material. To put things into perspective. a 1/2" thick sheet of this material from one place costs like 53 dollars, but would cost 215 or so to ship.
Thx for vid. I'm currently looking at options for making a Wingfoil board. Traditionally they are made from EPS / styrofoam blank skinned with cloth/resin like a surfboard but .. wondering if I might use your technique - what really peaked my interest was the ability to introduce bend to matrix core before glassing. I could shape rocker right in from get go. I'd have to laminate a few to get thickness then shape /fair out with final wrap in carbon cloth. Do you happen to know how much a full panel weighs dry? I read through comments but didn't see. Fewer finishing layers of cloth probably required with this stiffer stronger core. Great vid - thanks again! Now the real challenge - finding this stuff in Canada!
I enjoyed watching this video. Good presentation skills (voice, pacing, what you show). Will subscribe as I did check out your channel and was impressed by the many different topics you have in your channel.
No reason at all. I usually only use the biaxle on outside or area that is going to get walked on. Using it on both sides would make the panel even more rigid
@@DIYeasycrafts Thanks! Im well aware what my options are as far as canvas is concerned and other traditional substrates. I prefer to paint on smooth surfaces like MDF board, but those are prone to warping, especially if not sealed properly on all sides. So I'm looking at alternatives less sensitive to moisture such as ACM panels, copper sheets, and now, this fiber glass material.
@@DIYeasycrafts Going back to my question, more specifically, do most paints adhere to fiberglass easily? Or do some delaminate and peel off it; as acrylics are liable to do on some polymer surfaces. I know oils would probably do fine...
They thermally bond/weld polyester scrim to the polypropylene honeycore structure. The polyester resin or epoxy then bonds to the polyester scrim surface. Not much bonds well, chemically, to polypropylene, since it is such a low surface energy plastic.
Im really just not sure. I only used it for the deck platform. Im thinking you could, as long as exterior layer of fiberglass was thick enough. I would use plywood for the stern and you would have to add stringers
On the edges, a good polyurathane caulking seems to be much easier and more durable than bondo epoxy. That stuff isnt wp flexible or durable. Yes, fiberglass will be better...nice work
Can you not just use a stanley knife and the putty to first put together the shape and then once that has set and is rigid lay up the fibreglass and add fillets between joints, also wett out the fibreglass between plastic sheets.
Very similar to nydacore. Sorry I just do not know the brand. Went to local fiberglass supply and he sold it to me as a generic equivalent to nydacore. I got it from Reinforced Plastics in Farmingdale NY. Not sure if they can ship or not
You are correct its not like wood. I do not use screws. Only nuts and bolts with a backing plate (usually pvc board). I always use a little silicone or 5200 on bolt threads so the nuts do not vibrate loose and it helps seal water from getting into honeycomb. Still much better than plywood.
In aircraft honeycomb panels the method for bolts is to drill your hole where you need it. Then take an L shaped piece of wire and hollow out the area behind the hole. Then fill it with the putty and insert a nutsert and tape over it to keep the putty from oozing out. Once cured is very secure.
Honestly, I love the end result. Fiberglass and resin is pretty awesome. However I hate that material. It´s dangerous chemicals and the fiberglass is dangerous and can be bretah in. You also have to wear a mask while sanding and cutting it and so on. I really hate that.
Very interesting. I submit that honeycomb panels are not a 1 to 1 equal to plywood when it comes to stiffness and they deflect more. Here is a video showing that: th-cam.com/video/h4bApsXSavM/w-d-xo.html But since the stiffness of an object increases/decreases by the cube of the increase/decrease in thickness. if you double the thickness of some material, you increase stiffness (resistance to deflection) by a factor of 8 (ie, 2 cubed). So a 5/8 inch thick honeycomb would likely surpass somewhat the stiffness of a1/2 inch sheet of plywood and still weigh much less.
The vertical wall add quite a bit of stiffness. I also have a honey comb stringer for additional stiffness. The real benefit comes from the fact that it will not absorb water. become heavy or rot.
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youu gave me an idea for a camper build thanks
Glad to hear it!
Been using this board for a while…built decks, radar arches, center consoles. It’s pretty good stuff if you want to use it for contouring shapes. Score the panel every 1/2”-1”, this will allow the panel to bend, fair, fill and glass.
thanks for sharing! I will apply these techniques you taught me to components of a tiny "airstream" trailer I'm building to pull behind my ebike.
This is awesome you should get the Nobel award for common sense engineering even though My hands shake I can still do it thanks
I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN.
You are making me reconsider using traditional plywood core on my next project. Excellent detail and presentation in this video.
Glad it was helpful! Im happy I went with it. Def more work than plywood but it should last forever!!
@@DIYeasycrafts If you protect it from UV, then it should last a very long time.
Excellent video, especially the joinery portion.
Thank you very much!
Nicely done with basic tools. Much easier and faster with more complicated tools, a router in particular. What you call mesh I think it called Mat.
Thanks for sharing video. This process is a bettercost effective way than buying panels and plastic honeycomb is better than cardboard honeycomb. Filling the edges and staggering joint method is a great idea!
Yes, you are right
Nicely done. I am sold on this material for strength, rigidity, and relative cost-effectiveness. I researched these materials extensively a few years ago, and conducted many experiments thereafter. Two comments:
WATER INTRUSION: Plastic honeycomb has a troubled reputation for boatbuilding where water intrusion is possible (hulls). First, know that the plastic (core) does not bond well to polyester or epoxy resins, instead, the resin bonds to the "skin" which is a polyester-impregnated cloth. When it happens, the fiberglass wall (including the skim cloth) separates from the plastic core and water enters through the separation, essentially filling all the cells therein. It's not a deal-breaker but rather means that any penetration or crack is a vulnerability and must be repaired/resealed immediately.
EDGEWORK: It was good observing the attention to the edges because the edges are among the weakest parts of the final assembly. I am not familiar with the epoxy putty used but I would be a little concerned about bonding between the plastic core material and the epoxy putty (often weak bond results). One way to overcome this issue is to "activate" the surface of the exposed plastic core using the activator found in Loctite 2-part "Plastic Bonder" with a plastic-specific adhesive such Devcon Plastic Weld or a methyl-methacrylate (MMA) construction adhesive. All that is needed is a thin coat because (epoxy) resin bonds fine to the adhesive. I make 100% strong edges and bond sheets this way.
YMMV. Good luck!
Great info thanks
Interesting. Is there a book on the subject?
Yeah, the core is made out of polypropylene which has a low surface energy and not much bonds to it well. Definitely need to alter it. Cold plasma treatment can also help to make the surface more bondable.
You might be able to use a low temp hot glue, but that would need to be tested well before even trying.
thank you!!! I'm planning to make a roof top tent and camper and this technique looks great for keeping it light and strong. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! I’ve been using honeycomb/fiberglass panels I bought at Boeing Surplus 30 years ago. No more of those available, and new 4x8 panels cost $1800 ! So I may give your method a try.
Great Job. Other alternatives are very expensive like coosa. Plywood is heavy and prone to water absorption. Looks like you have the best of both worlds.
For things that will not be in the sun, you can put one layer of 4 oz surfboard glasscloth over the honeycomb with polyester resin or epoxy, then go over that with the clear countertop epoxy. Use a torch to break any bubbles and keep dust away until it hardens. All the resin and glass become transparent and you clearly see the honeycomb pattern in the part. I did some ceiling panels and a countertop with honeycomb and countertop epoxy and the 3-D honeycomb looks awesome! You can't use it for anything that will be in the ultraviolet because that will make the countertop epoxy get all alligator-skin.
Would love to see a finished photo
I didn't have the patience to watch the whole video, but I did skim through it hoping to find info about where this honeycomb material is available, and how expensive it is. I don't see any links in the video description on where I can get it.
I am pricing out my costs, can you give an estimate of how much resin is needed per side of a 4X8 sheet of honey comb with the biaxial cloth. Great video, thanks.
Good tutorial. I do have a suggestion: instead of wetting out the Matt cloth on the honeycomb or cardboard, use some plastic sheeting laid out flat, wet it out, then squeegee out the excess, then lay it on the honeycomb that has been wet out. This way you cut down the weight with no loss of strength. Roll it like normal to get good contact.
That's a great idea! Will have to give it a try
I wonder if I could build a camper using this method. It should really cut down on the weight.
First thing I thought as well!
I'm building a tiny "airstream" trailer to pull behind my ebike- a 1 person sleeper. it's just just skeleton so far,, but I'm planning on using two layers of this stuff to stiffen and sandwich 1" rigid foam insulation, with maybe a heated floor mat and vinyl flooring on top. also considering using it vertically as a wall finish. it strikes me that since it's translucent, it might be cool to edge light the honeycomb with LED strips.
@@travismiller5548 interesting... I was thinking the 1/2"panel - 1"foam - 1/2"panel would be perfect for factory RV windows in my lightweight truck camper that I am planning. I also like the flexibility of the 1/2" over the 1" Nidacore. I am wondering what to do on the corners I really don't want to use wood... might be an idea to make a fibreglass angle the profile of the side (I have seen a project where they used aluminum angle but would be cool to go all glass and honeycomb
Yes, I've already seen this stuff in the walls and roof of a Starcraft cutaway bus that I converted.
Thats what I was thinking
Great job. Doing some research for a Teardrop build and got a few great ideas off you.
great video. I haven't been able to find the honeycomb material though.
awesome tricks im going to be building a tiny camper this way
Good luck!
Curious why you chose this over say XPS foam panels? If you take 1/2" thick XPS foam sheets and put (lower weight) fiberglass on each side of each panel and then put them together, it becomes very strong and stiff. You do have to scruff up the surfaces really well though.
Excelente tutorial sencillo y novedoso.Saludos desde Panamá
Thank you Sir
Great techniques! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Sawdust from oak, cypress,cider, work's great for filler and can be hit with arouter but play sand work's to .
When you say mesh do you mean chop strand mat? How many layers of 1.5ozCSM and 1708 did you lay to get it rigid enough for the deck?
yes Sir
Hello, congratulations for the beautiful work, please answer me, do the holes in the honeycomb have a vacuum?
No Sir they do not
This looks about perfect for building my little folding camping boat, whose largest panel is 4:5'/137cm x 1'/30cm.
Your tutorial has really helped and inspired me as weight is important as this will be towed as a bicycle trailer on the road.
Push button Q/R axles (as fitted to wheelchairs) will take Brompton 16' wheels, a Q/R towbar attaches to the bow.
The tailer size is 4:5'/137cm long x 2'6"/76cm wide x 2'/60cm high, and when unfolded the boat will be 9'/274cm long x 2'6"/76cm wide x 1'/30cm high.
Kayak paddle or small outboard motor for propulsion.
The weight saving will be significant over marine plywood, and this method provides additional flotation and insulation.
A collapsible/folding cabin provides sheltered sitting and sleeping space.
Sounds like a cool project. Would love to see photos once finished
That bondo glass is great stough I built a covetable truck for my sons in high school I shaved out the tail lights on it useing fiberglass mesh fiberglass and bondo glass ten years later it was still perfect also used marine tex on the convertible top kit super strong stough!!!
Great stuff!!
Thank you so much for sharing this!
You are so welcome!
Great job and I like the way you have shown diagrams of the different joints etc . I want to remove my splash well to make more deck space and will need to make some support walls . I will use your principles with 1" foan core . Thanks again for both the ideas and the methods .
Excellent video and descriptions
Thank you very much!
Very interesting, I sure would like to see the whole build, and yeah wood is easy but the glass is forever,,, almost
th-cam.com/video/9t3i2UyV2GM/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYeasycrafts Very cool, now since it has been on some time how has it held up with people walking/standing on it.. I got grand kids that could brake an anvil so need something thats not going to crap out
thankyou ,very Informative videoes i am almost 60years of age and i bought my first boat before my first Car ! over the years i’ve owned 17or 18 boats of all sizes ,Makes ,and Models as Well as Materials you make using the Honeycomb board a lot easier than it really is but you definitely offer some great advice and Tips , i myself am now retired and i did ProfessionalWoodworking Professionally for over 35 years watching you cut out the HoneyComb boards with the Oscillating tool can be accomplished much faster with a Router and some simple Jigs for that Router a good group of Reasons for this is because of the many different Routers and Bits Available and Used inThe Woodworking Industry they are also IMO reasonably priced and Available along with providing excellent Accuracy with Speed , for myself being Retired i’m probably going tom”Binge” watch your channel in preparation for my next Boat Project I grew up inFlorida , and am in the Process of moving back there soon as my grownChildren and Grandchildren reside there now and we do have plans on either Restoring or Building a Vessel as you stated using any type of Plywood Core usually does fail over time and with the Pricing of most Pywoods compared to the Honey Comb Core Board it just makes more and more sense to have that as the GoTo method as opposed to a Cold Molded Process and in all Honesty i’ve gone down the AllWood TraditionalHonduras Mahogany Boat route yes they are Beautifull in many ways but i like being out onmy Boats not always working on them , so i admit i committed the CardinalBoaters Sin before i listed the Woody for Sale i already purchased. a newer ,repo we’re Sport Fisher Plastic (Fiberglass ) boat as my main Cruising and Fishing Vessel
Craig, you are really good
Great vid, thanks I'm considering using panels like this for a deer blind. Where can I find sheets of honeycomb?
I picked them up at local fiberglass supply.
Nicely done. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Well this stuff is readily available but this is cheaper and it's better and safer to work with than Aramid Phenolic honeycomb...stuff is bad for you. As far as removing honeycomb goes, in the Air Force and other aircraft industries we'd use a 90° scriber tool in a drill which allows you to remove material below the sheet and we'd fill with microballoons (it's very strong and very light). You're doing great work here for the DIYer.
Do you know what the material of the honeycomb was? I have been looking for a suitable core material that is flexible. This looks perfect.
An important question: How do I make the fiberglass surface smooth?
Any type of fiberglass fabric has a smooth surface
Came across this., would work for a lithium prismatic enclosure to build a box. Van build. I am a fan of 1708, probably overkill. The more an RV is built like a boat, the better.
You've probably already walked on similar panels, but with a paper honeycomb.
I'm looking to build a DIY boat and plywood is expensive now. If I'm reading specs correctly, a same size sandwich of this stuff should be several times as strong as the plywood.
I would never use plywood again. But I do not have any experience with honeycomb for a hull. I have only used it for topside applications
Di you buy the panels from reinforced plastics lab in Farmingdale? I was going to give them a call but figured if this was the place
Yes that is exactly where I got them.
I was gonna use aluminium to make the frame when rebuilding my crescent 434 but might just go with this instead. :)
Curious on suppliers, we are landlocked so not a lot of boat repair supply places close by. I want to rebuild a couple seats in my ski boat ones is a 80 in who makes the off brand honeycomb?
How much fg resin did you use to do 1 4x8 panel
any idea how much resin it takes to do both sides of 4x8 panel .Thanks
I hope you meant to say that you applied a coat of resin to the honeycomb core as you cannot saturate core if it does not absorb moisture.
Very nice work very professional
Thank you for tutorial, Do you think you think it could be used to build furniture, like kitchen cabinets? Can it be coated to look premium? What is the weight difference between this and plywood?
Yes, absolutely
@@DIYeasycrafts, do you have to use special fasteners?
@@sabio2009 No but use a large washer or a backer board behind items like cleats
Nice tutorial and example of products usefulness
Glad you liked it
What prevents the epoxy from filling all the honeycomb holes and making the part heavier?
The sheet is covered in fabric on both sides. Im sure if you soaked it in resin you could get holes to fill up but it would be hard. I did not have a problem even using a generous amount of resin on a roller
Came across your video by accident. Do you have any insight into its strength in compression edge to edge. I need to fill a gap between a hollow formed by a vehicle's fiberglass body molding. Think of it as wanting to use the honeycomb vertically replacing the straight line of the letter D
Sorry but I do not. This was the first time I used it
Cloauth... God bless the east coast.
Did you consider using a closed cell PVC foam for the core? Also, how is the fiberglass adhesion to the honeycomb compared to other materials?
The honecomb is made to adhere to fiberglass so adhesion is not an issue. it also will not soak up water so hopefully will last for years with out becoming heavy and delaminating.
is the plastic honeycomb core pretty cheap? (cheaper than nomex/aramid honeycomb?)
Cheaper now than plywood of equivalent thickness. But best find a place relatively close by that allows you to pick up the product, because shipping tends to be extremely high with these large, 48" x 96" panels---several times higher than the cost of the actual material. To put things into perspective. a 1/2" thick sheet of this material from one place costs like 53 dollars, but would cost 215 or so to ship.
Really cool man thank you for making this video and goid job
Glad you liked it!
Great video! What's the name of that honeycomb sheet? Is it a plastic sheet or a fiberglass sheet?
Could you use this technique to cover a greenhouse?
yes absolutely
@@DIYeasycrafts Great, thanks
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thx for vid. I'm currently looking at options for making a Wingfoil board.
Traditionally they are made from EPS / styrofoam blank skinned with cloth/resin like a surfboard but .. wondering if I might use your technique - what really peaked my interest was the ability to introduce bend to matrix core before glassing. I could shape rocker right in from get go. I'd have to laminate a few to get thickness then shape /fair out with final wrap in carbon cloth.
Do you happen to know how much a full panel weighs dry? I read through comments but didn't see.
Fewer finishing layers of cloth probably required with this stiffer stronger core.
Great vid - thanks again!
Now the real challenge - finding this stuff in Canada!
Probably how the libtech surfboards are made, I think they call em hexcore.
I enjoyed watching this video. Good presentation skills (voice, pacing, what you show). Will subscribe as I did check out your channel and was impressed by the many different topics you have in your channel.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Can I build a live well with that?
A 4inch diamond edge disc cutting tool is best to trim fibreglass in my opinion
where did you purchase those plascore honeycomb sheets what size are you using?
Local fiberglass supply in Farmingdale NY. I used 3/4"
Water will collect in the honeycomb if the fiberglass is compromised. I've seen gallons of water drain from them
Is the biaxial on bottom or top of your deck?
I used it on top
Any reason you can't use biaxial on both sides?
No reason at all. I usually only use the biaxle on outside or area that is going to get walked on. Using it on both sides would make the panel even more rigid
Thank you!
You're welcome!
How would this work as a painting substrate for art?
Not sure if I understand the question. It would seem like a lot of work rather than buying a canvas
@@DIYeasycrafts Thanks! Im well aware what my options are as far as canvas is concerned and other traditional substrates. I prefer to paint on smooth surfaces like MDF board, but those are prone to warping, especially if not sealed properly on all sides. So I'm looking at alternatives less sensitive to moisture such as ACM panels, copper sheets, and now, this fiber glass material.
@@DIYeasycrafts Going back to my question, more specifically, do most paints adhere to fiberglass easily? Or do some delaminate and peel off it; as acrylics are liable to do on some polymer surfaces. I know oils would probably do fine...
Awesome Video...found it!
NIDACORE HONEYCOMB SHEETS except generic! Thanks
VERY NICE
Thanks
What keeps the glass delaminating from the smooth honeycomb plastic?
They thermally bond/weld polyester scrim to the polypropylene honeycore structure. The polyester resin or epoxy then bonds to the polyester scrim surface. Not much bonds well, chemically, to polypropylene, since it is such a low surface energy plastic.
Very helpful!!
Glad you think so!
Hello, thank you for the video. Great information.
NIDACORE HONEYCOMB SHEETS except generic Cheers
Cool! Very handy stuff!
Thanks
Welcome
I’d use a router to make the inlay cuts instead of the oscillating multi tool.
Did the boat test positive for covid ?
Can you build a hull from this?
Im really just not sure. I only used it for the deck platform. Im thinking you could, as long as exterior layer of fiberglass was thick enough. I would use plywood for the stern and you would have to add stringers
I guess it depends on cost vs. plywood.
@@robertboyer5498 oh no I think it might be better than plywood. Its lighter and would not ever become saturated with water
@@robertboyer5498 u
On the edges, a good polyurathane caulking seems to be much easier and more durable than bondo epoxy. That stuff isnt wp flexible or durable.
Yes, fiberglass will be better...nice work
Can you not just use a stanley knife and the putty to first put together the shape and then once that has set and is rigid lay up the fibreglass and add fillets between joints, also wett out the fibreglass between plastic sheets.
Generic panel brand name/source?
Very similar to nydacore. Sorry I just do not know the brand. Went to local fiberglass supply and he sold it to me as a generic equivalent to nydacore. I got it from Reinforced Plastics in Farmingdale NY. Not sure if they can ship or not
Plascore I'm guessing
I'm 100 miles from the closest city, exactly where do you think my "Local" fiberglass supply house would be ? lol
the issues is screwing into in and the screws staying put...
You are correct its not like wood. I do not use screws. Only nuts and bolts with a backing plate (usually pvc board). I always use a little silicone or 5200 on bolt threads so the nuts do not vibrate loose and it helps seal water from getting into honeycomb. Still much better than plywood.
In aircraft honeycomb panels the method for bolts is to drill your hole where you need it. Then take an L shaped piece of wire and hollow out the area behind the hole. Then fill it with the putty and insert a nutsert and tape over it to keep the putty from oozing out. Once cured is very secure.
$60 per sheet?! That’s so inexpensive. Which vendor did you use?
I went to local fiberglass supply store in Farmingdale NY. If you local I can look up the name. Otherwise best to do an internet search
@@DIYeasycrafts I should be heading there tomorrow for a sheet:)
lol why not just cur the pieces put the pieces together and then fiberglass coat them them???
As long as you can get to both sides you could absolutely do that
Honestly, I love the end result. Fiberglass and resin is pretty awesome. However I hate that material. It´s dangerous chemicals and the fiberglass is dangerous and can be bretah in. You also have to wear a mask while sanding and cutting it and so on. I really hate that.
Very interesting. I submit that honeycomb panels are not a 1 to 1 equal to plywood when it comes to stiffness and they deflect more. Here is a video showing that: th-cam.com/video/h4bApsXSavM/w-d-xo.html
But since the stiffness of an object increases/decreases by the cube of the increase/decrease in thickness. if you double the thickness of some material, you increase stiffness (resistance to deflection) by a factor of 8 (ie, 2 cubed). So a 5/8 inch thick honeycomb would likely surpass somewhat the stiffness of a1/2 inch sheet of plywood and still weigh much less.
The vertical wall add quite a bit of stiffness. I also have a honey comb stringer for additional stiffness. The real benefit comes from the fact that it will not absorb water. become heavy or rot.
Excellent information, thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!