DEADLINE TIME! Hydraulic Pump Replacement Part 2 - Reassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Nothing like a deadline to get stuff back together. The pump goes in, I replace the bearings for the pump drive idler gear, go over the importance of lube pressure in the rear end, and put it all back together. Ophelia the Purple Oliver 1850 is ready to roll again!
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As always, Thanks for watching!
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I would probably drop the springs, not just a fumble finger, but with my rheumatoid arthritic fingers, I have trouble holding things. Don't feel bad about ruining the extension, I've done the exact same thing. Great instructional video, I always learn something from these videos. Thanks for sharing, I hope you have a great Sunday and rest of week ahead.
Nice job Chris right down to the wire for senior pictures huh. I guess you're getting the dad of the year award again this year as well haha
This Friday is drive your tractor to school day. Unfortunately Abby's left foot is in a boot after ankle surgery, so it looks like I get one more crack at being Super dad. I get to drive Ophelia to school.
Oh man poor kid on her senior year.. she could take the combine that a hydro haha
@@Adam_Poirier LOL. Maybe the lawn mower?
That right angle fitting and that plate underneath that fitting would drive me nuts. I’d have that piece in and out a dozen times making sure that o ring was in place, because knowing my luck it would slip and leak.
Thanks Chris, great info 👍
Glad to help!
Doesn't look like a meth lab cause all the teeth are there......that's funny.
You musta got it right, everything runs and no extra parts!
There were those extra bolts....
@@ThatOliverGuyChris shhh
I might have to dig a hole and bury them. It's kinda hard to deny where they came from with that paint.
Hi Chris I'm dan and im looking for a complete seat and suspension for my 2-155 series3 with a 1984 birthdate. I have the seat with the spring suspension that has the adjustment knob in the center.
I see guys posting on Facebook about switching to air ride seats. I would think one of them would be willing to sell their old seats. They might need reupholstered, but it's a starting point. I personally don't know of any for sale at the moment.
Looked all thru AGCO book for hydraulic lever seals for 1850-D. I must have missed them somewhere. Thanks. Arnie
the lip seal is 104881A and the oring is K2027, same as 1/8" x 7/8" ID oring.
Thanks for sharing I have a 1655 Oliver slowly losing hydraulic oil I believe getting into the rearend this kinda gives me a visual on what to expect and how to reassemble correctly
There are a few differences, but the basics are the same.
Great video Chris, I remember doing this to our 1950GM several years ago and it is a job for sure. Our steel resevoir pan also had been brazed at some point before we had it.
Is it common for that steel pan to crack?
I wouldn't say common, but it does happen. I think it's more likely to get a rust hole. The other thing I have seen is if an axle bearing goes out, the bull gear can chew a hole through the pan.
Do you know of a good place to order the 2 pan gaskets under the hydraulic unit on like a 1600 cause everywhere I’ve looked doesn’t offer it the only place I haven’t looked yet is Agco
I just looked them up on Agco parts website and they are still available.
This is a great video. My 1655 needs a pump and this is very helpful. Thank you Chris
I have a couple videos of putting a pump in a 1550. They.were posted back in September. That one is almost identical.
Another fine job,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hey Chris, thank you for the videos. Just finished my cockshutt 1800 and have to replace the hydraulic line running from power divider to hydra motor. Just wondering if the Inside diameter of new rubber hose needs to be the same as old copper line? Local hose tech shop already made up the return line for me at a larger ID. AGCO wants $240. Thanks
If I remember correctly, that line is 3/8" . I wouldn't go any smaller than that, but it's only a 5 gallon per minute flow for the power steering. Rubber or steel, 3/8" id should work
Good advice on clicking the transmission over into low range for doing stationary work, wish I knew that how long time ago lol
OMG please invest in a brass hammer for hammering on extensions and drifts. Learned that one at an early age, the hard way. LOL no force it! Mechanics feel! It's a thing believe me. ;) File folders with Gasgacinch makes excellent low temperature gaskets. Many a night finishing a racing engine and no damn gasket. Saved by the file folder!
Surgery was a success!
Thanks Chris. I learn so much from watching your videos.
Thanks, Charlie.
I will be doing the same thing to my 1850 this winter. And maybe my 1900. I will be referencing this video for sure. It's not much of a loader tractor with a weak pump. The 55 series sure upgraded the hydraulic system,in a multitude of ways. Thanks for another great video!
what kind of upgrade hydraulic pump was there from the 50 to 55?
Hi Chris. A friend of mine has an 1850 oliver with a Cummins in it. The three point and remotes were not working. We replaced the hydraulic pump and they are both still non operational. The Hydra electric system is not being used and we know that isn't the problem.
Any suggestions for troubleshooting?
-JB
Is steering working? Have you checked the relief valve?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the steering is working and we tested the relief valve it was good too.
Have you disassembled the priority valve? The divider could be sticking and sending all the oil through the steering. There's also a pressure reducing valve that may be stuck. Usually if that one is stuck you don't have power steering.
We will look at the priority valve. Thanks for the help!
They don’t call you the Oliver Guy for nothing. Great video Thanks
Thanks Chris we enjoyed your video!
Awesome videos thank you
Glad you like them!
Can a 1650 be towed?
Yes, it should be fine.
Thanks for the gauge tips i am going to screw in a permanent gauge on a short pipe nipple by the filter so i can glance at it from time to time.
I've thought about doing the exact same. They did offer an idiot light for that purpose later on. I'm adding one of those to the 1855.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Probably a light would grab the attention of the idiot in the seat quicker (me). Aready ordered the gauges. Guess i wiil order a tee, sending unit, and indicator.Your videos get expensive. 😂
Nice neat job thanks for sharing! 👍
Good video!
Thank you
Thanks Chris for sharing. Michael 😊
if these tractors have cabs on them, how hard is it to remove the cab of a 1750 gas?
It depends on which cab, but the biggest hurdle is having something that can lift it high enough to clear everything before you move it. Other than that, unbolt it, disconnect any wires and heater hoses, and lift it off.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris so the fenders dash and and stuff like that stay with tractor, the cabs do not have their own floorboard but use the tractors? i have 770s and am looking at a 1750 but want to be able to fix on it myself like i do the 770s thanks good video
@@jimkurk5575 it depends on the cab. Some factory cabs you gad to remove the fenders, others they stay on. It seems like the majority of the aftermarket cabs required the fenders to be removed. Most of that era used the factory floorboards. My best advice is to clean it out well, take off any obvious mounts and then lift slowly and watch carefully for any you may have missed.
Can a 1650 be towed.?
My heart pains for you when a piece of paint comes loose.
You’ll have her beautiful again soon.
It didn't end up being as bad as I envisioned. Shouldn't take much to touch up the bolts and whatnot.
Well explained! Good camera angles. Who was the guy with camo shorts?
Thanks. That was my brother.
Glad to see ole pinky goin again
What do you like more between 1850s and 1855s. Gas or diesel?
Diesel. The gas engines in both had good fuel economy compared to other makes, but it's hard to compare to the economy of a diesel.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris would you pick an 1855 over an 1850?
@@bendunkelman4853 that's a tough one. The improvements of the 55 series make it a nicer tractor to operate, but the reliability of the Perkins vs the Waukesha makes the 1850 a little more attractive. The simple solution is to have one of each.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris lol, if only. Can you tell me the difference between the Perkins engine in the 1850, 2-105, and 2-110?
@@bendunkelman4853, they're all 354 cubic inches, but there were numerous improvements over the years. They had a dot system they adopted to show what generation the engine was. Early ones in 1850s were a "no dot" engine, before Perkins came up with the system. By the late 1850, they had redesigned the head and manifolds, as well as the drive system for the injection pump. I'm fairly certain that is where the Dot 1 version began. When the 2-105 came out they were still using the dot 1, but at the end of the silver stripes Perkins had come out with the dot 4 version. The block was redesigned to get rid of the lifter covers on the right side, the pistons and rods were changed, enough things to make it almost an entirely new engine. I'm not aware of any dot 2 or 3 versions being used in Whites or Olivers. To the best of my knowledge the dot 4 was the last version of the 354, but there were later engines that looked very similar but with more displacement. Massey Ferguson used the 354 in many applications, and it's common for guys to get a combine engine and put it in an Oliver. That's when rhey discover the multiple differences between the two applications.
Just for curiositie's sake , what does the stamped G on the casting mean?
I guess I missed that. What time was it at?
Thanks for the info Chris!
Can't find good data on the front wheel assist options for the Oliver. Mechanical Front Wheel Assist only? Was there ever a hydraulic FWA? How about turning radius with FWA? Also wondering about how a 50/55 series Oliver links up engine/clutch to a 6 speed transmission, no 12/18 hydraulic tranny. Is it done by a coupling chain?
It really was a true 4 wheel drive. When engaged, there's no clutches or torque limiters, you could in theory run 100% of the power to the front wheels if the rears smehow lost 100% traction. They did offer a hydraulic front assist during the 1960s. It had limits though. It only worked in certain gears, not in reverse, the operator had a hand lever to match the speed, and it typically took a few feet for it to start pulling. It did have the advantage of greater wheel spacing, and better crop clearance, but like most early hydrostatic power it was prone to failure.
Opting out of a 3 speed depended on which style the tractor had. If it was a chain coupler, there was just a shaft with the coupler at the back. If it was a trunion mount (enclosed) then they used a 3 speed housing with a shaft going through it, and a bearing in the rear to support the shaft. It had a plain steel cover for the side that normally had the pump and shifting controls.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Wonderful information. Thank Your very much. :)
I forgot to address turning radius. It was definitely wider than a 2wd, but not as bad as many make it out to be. That's the main reason the front axle sits back as far as it does, to improve turning radius. The University of Nebraska has all of the tractor tests available for free online. I know Oliver sent in fwa versions for testing, but I don't remember if that included turning radius back then.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks again, much appreciated!
My 1850 serial number is pretty close to your 1850's at 151 531-427. Thanks for the video!
Cool! I'm guessing yours doesn't have the access holes in the frame for the rear motor mounts?
It does not. I've been using that to judge the model year of 1850's for the past few years. My 1966 1850 has them.
Well, that helps narrow it down.
Great video Chris
Thank you!
Alternative tool use…. Not abuse….
Because every tool is a hammer!
Exactly
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