I always site down the neck first looking for straightness and twist. Truss rod adjustments for bow is an easy adjustment every player should know how to do but stay away from twist.
Slight correction about the intonation: The harmonic will give the same reading as the open string, that's simple physics. What you should do is either compare the open string with the fretted 12th position, or compare the 12th harmonic with the fretted 12th position.
Greetings Phil, huge fan of the channel!! The DropBox links here to the checklist sheets are saying that the File is no longer available? Is there a new link to the PDF's by chance? Thanks!!
I check the nut slot heights with a caliper to make sure they’re the same height off the fingerboard as the first fret. I check the neck for straightness and relief by putting capo the first fret, then pressing each individual string on the 13th fret and ensuring there is a very slight gap at the 7th fret, and that it is even for all strings (a bigger gap on either E string would indicate a warped neck). And I like to check the radius of the strings right in front of the bridge to make sure it matches the fingerboard at the 14th fret.
Thanks for sharing. I've got 16 guitars and my own version of this but I didn't think to break it down to document the condition with an inspection sheet. I've been on TH-cam a while but just recently became interested in your channel that lead to Robert Baker and others. I appreciate everything you offer sir!
Wow nice video. Tons of useful detailed tips. Wish I seen this when I bought an acoustic with a lifting bridge. Lesson learned. Will know next time with this sheet when I buy another used guitar.
Sight down the neck for uniformity as opposed to perhaps a double hump for example.. and maybe check for string centeredness or lack of space between the outer stings and the edges of the fingerboard... thanks for all the great suggestions Phillip !!
For acoustic I'd add degree of subsidence before the bridge and/or bulging after of the top. There's bound to be a little on any acoustic that projects well, but if it's easily noticeable from any distance it could be a problem.
Good one, Phil. On acoustic I would add to look at bridge thickness, string break angle at saddle, and use a straight edge to check level of top of bridge with fret board.
+Philip McKnight - Great video. My guitar knowledge is way below yours but I do have one suggestion that I think you didn't mention. I think a good add to the checklist would be to check the saddle radius and levelness of the saddles.
I remember my friend Eddie picking out a Gibson Flying V. He picked it up, held it and ran his hands up and down the neck, press the strings to feel their height, listen for tune and play. He did this back in the day when you had to drive after answering an add. He finally found 'The One': a 1975 Mahogany V with white pick guard, it played like the Gods. No calipers, rockers or gauges of any kind, just a feeling in his hands and heart
Hi, Phil. Great stuff, but the intonation bit is incorrect. The 12th harmonic will always be in tune with the open string by definition. If the harmonic is ringing, then you hit the middle of the string, so the frequency will be double of the original (same note 1 octave up). You should fret the note. If it's not in tune, then the 12th fret isn't in the middle of the string and the length needs adjustment. To do it by ear, compare the harmonic with the fretted note (you can also compare to the open string, but that will be 1 octave down, so harder to compare to). Thanks for the videos!
Great Video ! Information that is actually helpful from someone I trust to give me good info. There are countless videos on guitars & gear that just really don't help you . I would love to see more like this . Thank You Phil.
When tightening the neck screws and tuner screws and nuts, add checking and tightening the nut on the output jack. If it's loose, the jack can turn and break the solder contacts.
Add ons: 1. Check Floyd Rose floating bridge for wear on 2 pivot points, wear can be the blade side or the stud. 2. Especially on acoustics, check for string wear on bridge. 3. See if truss nut is seized
Very helpful video. The only thing I would suggest is putting a straight edge on the neck and see if the neck is straight. Some people may be able to sight down the neck and tell. And for Gibsons (or Gibson style) check for any cracks where the headstock meets the neck.
@mwcarde: The problem with using a straight edge, and notched straight edge, is you need to be more on the luthier side of training. Is the neck not straight because the truss rod is out of adjustment? On acoustics, is it humidity sweat between the 14th and 22nd fret? is the fret board separating from the actual neck, or is it swelled? Is one fret high and causing the neck to seem to be out of level or straightness. (need a notched straight edge during truss rod adjustment to tell). All those issues need to be addressed by a luthier.
I love this video! Before watching this, I had trouble with my bridge raising while I was tuning my strat and it was a nightmare. I searched everywhere, incorrectly I should add, and did not know why until this video at around 6:40 where Phil talks about the springs in relation to string gauge. I'll be using 9's until I get my scales and mechanics back, then maybe 6 months later I'll switch to 10's. I wonder if I can just add a 4th or even 5th spring instead of adjusting the claw (scary for me) to keep the tremolo bridge from rising while just getting into tune. When I switch to 10's that is.
Just something to pick out, and it's really knit picking. But the video is ever so slightly out of focus. I shoot photography, so I run into this issue too, sometimes. Other than that almost imperceptible thing, absolutely fantastic video! Love the channel, keep up the great work!
The way I go about my purshase is I wait is it what I really want or I wait and return a week or two later if it's still has the same affect that I first had then I do a purchase if not then I look for what I have in mind . As far as setups and poor qc work I still do a second look over and wait . Last time I did inpulse buying it turned out to be a modern player tele. Told fender turned out to be one of those guitars you look forward to bringing back and not fxing .
Would really like your review of the Peavey Vyper Pro 100. Your reviews always give the good and bad of a product, that's very refreshing. I've seen a couple reviews on this amp and I've never been a Peavey guy but wow did the amp sound great. But the reviewers are Peavey fans, not a bad thing but I like a review that's as unbiased as possible. Your reviews seem to be as close to that as possible. We all have our favorite gear but you seem to play it straight. Hope you review this amp would really be interested in your review.
One common problem I find when inspecting cheaper electric guitars is a slight gap between the fret and edge of fretboard, where the high E string can get stuck under.
Hello Phillip! Thank You for Very informative videos!!! I have a important question for you, hope you may be able to help? I have a 2016 Epiphone Nighthawk Custom Blue Quill face with a dark blue back and neck, I have some damage repairs already done but am unable to match the back blue color for repaint, I have already contacted Epiphone from help but have not heard back from them? So, I though about an answer guy as yourself, so if you can help me with how to get the paint for the rear of the guitar, I would be in your debt! Thanks Sir!!!
Phil did you say that orange guitar was a Squire? I'd like to pick one up in that color, do you mind telling me what model and year that guitar is? Thanks for all the tips, great video.
Phil, If you tell every bozo to tighten their screws on thebolt-on necks you'll have a huge amount of people overtightening them. The video seems a bit over the place while it is a great idea. Make one list for a "pre-check" in store, make one if you got the guitar delivered and one to Service Check List before you give it to a "luthier" if you can find one. The graphite from the pencil goes everywhere. It is shoved away by the strings, gets on the fretboard. The fingers pick it up and get it on the rest of the guitar. You don't want any fine magnetic crap on your guitar.If you lubricate, use a tiny amount of PTFE(teflon) based grease in the nutslots. No lubricant can substitute a well made nut. Let them work on it before you walk out the door. My best tip is to bring a bright headlamp with you, no matter if you buy in a store or second hand. You can't find damage if you don't see it. I see every scratch, every dent and you can use it inside an acoustic as well. (I like the black diamond midrange models, obviously also great if you fix anything and need both hands.) If you're in the store and you find something...bring down the price or let them take care for it. Polish out this, put on these strings, work on the nut to make those strings work and I'll be back in two hours. Or i take the guitar as it is and you go down in price a little. If it isn't a 150€ fender acoustic, most quality guitar stores will do it. (Not the big supermarket chains)
Hi Phillip, when using a fret rocker, Does it make a difference if the neck has some relief as opposed to if the neck is flat or bowed up? Or do I set the Action first with the truss rod before fret rocking ? Thanks
Hey Phil does an adjustment to the screws on top of a humbucker style pickup that are under each string warrant any attention? I’ve seen them but never knew what they can/cannot do. Thanks
Thanks Phil. Great tips and helpful sheet. Thanks for sharing. When I check intonation, I actually fret the note at the 12th fret. Is the harmonic method a better way to do that? Regards. Happy Holidays.
Hey Phil - I remember from your video with TTK on the new cheap Epiphone that the tailpiece was almost popping out of the body. This is happening to me with my Epiphone Sheraton II (in which I top wrap the strings which might be helping the tailpiece on that popping out movement). I know it's not a flat top body but I'm not sure if I should have that checked or if it's not a big deal.
What are some of the weirdest grounding issues in your experience, how does emi effect a guitar one day from the other? Beyond normal 60 cycle hum, what causes other funny noises caused by pots, grounds, capacitors, etc...?
Phil, is it possible to expand on checking the nut to see if it’s cut too high or too low. For instance I had one that was cut too low, I had a buzz on an open string. However, I truly couldn’t tell if it was the but at first or a bad neck. Even a tech I brought it to was lost. Took it to a better tech and he determine it was simply cut too low. Would’ve been nice to have a check that made a determination either way. Thanks and great list!
One check for that is to fret a string as if to play on the 3rd fret (press between 2nd and 3rd fret so that the string touches 2nd and 3rd frets). There should be a gap between the string and the 1st fret about the thickness of a business card, and it certainly should not be not touching.
You're ok with headstock tuners, Phillip? I hear differing opinions on them and seem to get different results when I tune using one vs an electronic tuner.
I got a PRS Holcomb SE 2017 and the d string makes a bell like sound. Really bad on the 5th to 8th frets. Noticed that the neck had quite a bit of relief and the action was low. Fixed all that and it's still doing it. What would be your first guess? High fret somewhere?
I have a PRS SE. One thing I find is it is usually the slots in the top nut that cause this ring on strings. On Amazon, you can look for graphite, pre-slotted nuts made specifically for the PRS model. There is a place to enter the model guitar you have. If you don't know how to sand and shave the back of the nut for height, and to R & R it, then take the new nut to a luthier and have him / her do it. Graphite nut will greatly enhance the SE as far as staying in tune as well.
hey Phil can you help me please I bought Epiphone Casino VS serial no U 06080636 .. How can I find out where it was made & when ? I love your no nonsense approach .
Excellent video as usual. One thing I would possibly add is to check for any grounding problem with the electronics. Definitely easier to hear once you add gain! Keep up the good work!
Good post, good idea and informative -- However, disregard the caliper link above. That one can measure just 0.01" or 0.1mm and not read out to 0.001" or 0.01 mm, so I cannot see useful as a luthier tool. I should have read the description before immediately buying!
Your videos on guitar fundamentals are extremely useful!
Please do an update on your classic "Guitar brands, Who Owns Who".
I second the request for an update on the "who owns who" video. That was the first video of yours I watched, and I got hooked!
I always site down the neck first looking for straightness and twist. Truss rod adjustments for bow is an easy adjustment every player should know how to do but stay away from twist.
Slight correction about the intonation:
The harmonic will give the same reading as the open string, that's simple physics. What you should do is either compare the open string with the fretted 12th position, or compare the 12th harmonic with the fretted 12th position.
Great idea to have an inspection sheet. You don't have to remember everything and then forget something, just follow the sheet! Cheers!
You're twice as young as me....and I ALWAYS learn more......you're GREAT.... Thanks !
Great little sheet can also use when I do a Guitar service to show customers.
Thank you for the pdf downloads. Finally something to tuck into a case after implementing all the information.
Greetings Phil, huge fan of the channel!! The DropBox links here to the checklist sheets are saying that the File is no longer available? Is there a new link to the PDF's by chance? Thanks!!
I check the nut slot heights with a caliper to make sure they’re the same height off the fingerboard as the first fret. I check the neck for straightness and relief by putting capo the first fret, then pressing each individual string on the 13th fret and ensuring there is a very slight gap at the 7th fret, and that it is even for all strings (a bigger gap on either E string would indicate a warped neck). And I like to check the radius of the strings right in front of the bridge to make sure it matches the fingerboard at the 14th fret.
Not sure why someone would downvote this video, I believe it is a great resource. Thank you.
More technical stuff like this please.
tighten the strap screws
Thanks for sharing. I've got 16 guitars and my own version of this but I didn't think to break it down to document the condition with an inspection sheet. I've been on TH-cam a while but just recently became interested in your channel that lead to Robert Baker and others. I appreciate everything you offer sir!
Thanks Phillip! Great video, I don’t see the PDF in the description for the check sheet
Anybody have the PDF checklist? not in the Dropbox anymore 😢
Wow nice video. Tons of useful detailed tips. Wish I seen this when I bought an acoustic with a lifting bridge. Lesson learned. Will know next time with this sheet when I buy another used guitar.
Such a great series of videos. I realise I'm late to the show but thanks for this series. Very informative and zero waffle
Sight down the neck for uniformity as opposed to perhaps a double hump for example.. and maybe check for string centeredness or lack of space between the outer stings and the edges of the fingerboard... thanks for all the great suggestions Phillip !!
Thanks Phillip. As always, just what I need right now as I shop it around, run some racks.
These are your best videos. Thanks for the inspection checklists. Very useful.
For acoustic I'd add degree of subsidence before the bridge and/or bulging after of the top. There's bound to be a little on any acoustic that projects well, but if it's easily noticeable from any distance it could be a problem.
Maybe I'm blind, but I can't see the link to the inspection sheet. Please help. Thanks for another great video.
Good one, Phil. On acoustic I would add to look at bridge thickness, string break angle at saddle, and use a straight edge to check level of top of bridge with fret board.
You're providing a great service, Phil. Thank you!
I never knew it was so easy to check for high frets. I thought it was some kind of mystical process. Thanks Phil!
yeah, you can even check em with a fresh credit card, oh yeah I forgot...
They don't give credit cards to musicians, DUH...
+Philip McKnight - Great video. My guitar knowledge is way below yours but I do have one suggestion that I think you didn't mention. I think a good add to the checklist would be to check the saddle radius and levelness of the saddles.
I remember my friend Eddie picking out a Gibson Flying V. He picked it up, held it and ran his hands up and down the neck, press the strings to feel their height, listen for tune and play. He did this back in the day when you had to drive after answering an add. He finally found 'The One': a 1975 Mahogany V with white pick guard, it played like the Gods. No calipers, rockers or gauges of any kind, just a feeling in his hands and heart
Hi, Phil.
Great stuff, but the intonation bit is incorrect. The 12th harmonic will always be in tune with the open string by definition. If the harmonic is ringing, then you hit the middle of the string, so the frequency will be double of the original (same note 1 octave up). You should fret the note. If it's not in tune, then the 12th fret isn't in the middle of the string and the length needs adjustment. To do it by ear, compare the harmonic with the fretted note (you can also compare to the open string, but that will be 1 octave down, so harder to compare to).
Thanks for the videos!
Hi Phil! I haven't been able to find the PDF link anywhere. Can you please guide me to the link? Thanks✌❤
These are the videos that make this a great channel Phil, keep up the good work!
That checklist is brilliant!
J Mascis Jazzmaster in the background? How do you like it? Love mine!
Great Video ! Information that is actually helpful from someone I trust to give me good info. There are countless videos on guitars & gear that just really don't help you . I would love to see more like this . Thank You Phil.
Thanks for the vid. I like the checklist idea even if only to keep a record of my guitar's condition over time.👍
Many thanks for uploading this, Phillip, it's given me some great advice on checking guitars.Much love from England :-) .
I'd recommend checking neck relief and/or if the truss rod is even engaged.
this is massively useful, thanks Phil!
Hey Phillip, great job on this subject. I like your common sense approach.
Thanks for the check sheet Phillip!!
When tightening the neck screws and tuner screws and nuts, add checking and tightening the nut on the output jack. If it's loose, the jack can turn and break the solder contacts.
Add ons: 1. Check Floyd Rose floating bridge for wear on 2 pivot points, wear can be the blade side or the stud. 2. Especially on acoustics, check for string wear on bridge. 3. See if truss nut is seized
Phil, great video. Would you do an in depth vid on adjusting intonation on different guitars/bridges? Thank you for all you do!
I was just looking at my Gretsch TW300 Traveling Wilburys guitar which plays horrible, this will defiantly help.
Good morning Phil!
Unfortunately the PDF link isn't working anymore.
Very helpful video. The only thing I would suggest is putting a straight edge on the neck and see if the neck is straight. Some people may be able to sight down the neck and tell. And for Gibsons (or Gibson style) check for any cracks where the headstock meets the neck.
@mwcarde: The problem with using a straight edge, and notched straight edge, is you need to be more on the luthier side of training. Is the neck not straight because the truss rod is out of adjustment? On acoustics, is it humidity sweat between the 14th and 22nd fret? is the fret board separating from the actual neck, or is it swelled? Is one fret high and causing the neck to seem to be out of level or straightness. (need a notched straight edge during truss rod adjustment to tell). All those issues need to be addressed by a luthier.
I love this video! Before watching this, I had trouble with my bridge raising while I was tuning my strat and it was a nightmare. I searched everywhere, incorrectly I should add, and did not know why until this video at around 6:40 where Phil talks about the springs in relation to string gauge. I'll be using 9's until I get my scales and mechanics back, then maybe 6 months later I'll switch to 10's. I wonder if I can just add a 4th or even 5th spring instead of adjusting the claw (scary for me) to keep the tremolo bridge from rising while just getting into tune. When I switch to 10's that is.
Just something to pick out, and it's really knit picking. But the video is ever so slightly out of focus. I shoot photography, so I run into this issue too, sometimes. Other than that almost imperceptible thing, absolutely fantastic video! Love the channel, keep up the great work!
Chris Brown I think there was less light in this video than his usual, might be the culprit.
Thank you Phil, you are such a cool TH-camr! Love you, love your stuff!!
Thanks for the Sheet Phil!
The way I go about my purshase is I wait is it what I really want or I wait and return a week or two later if it's still has the same affect that I first had then I do a purchase if not then I look for what I have in mind . As far as setups and poor qc work I still do a second look over and wait . Last time I did inpulse buying it turned out to be a modern player tele. Told fender turned out to be one of those guitars you look forward to bringing back and not fxing .
I like the checklist great idea Phillip
Would really like your review of the Peavey Vyper Pro 100. Your reviews always give the good and bad of a product, that's very refreshing. I've seen a couple reviews on this amp and I've never been a Peavey guy but wow did the amp sound great. But the reviewers are Peavey fans, not a bad thing but I like a review that's as unbiased as possible. Your reviews seem to be as close to that as possible. We all have our favorite gear but you seem to play it straight. Hope you review this amp would really be interested in your review.
One common problem I find when inspecting cheaper electric guitars is a slight gap between the fret and edge of fretboard, where the high E string can get stuck under.
gladrock9 seen that
That issue can be fret sprout like phil mentioned in the video or an unleveled fret that was not slotted right. It can even be both.
Excellent reference. Thank you for posting.
the link for the sheets is not working... can you post it again please..
thank you for letting me know it was not working. here is a new link and it is now on my website. knowyourgear.net/pdf-down-loads
Phillip McKnight thanks phil
Great video and thanks for sharing the guitar inspection sheets.
Great video!
Love the technical stuff!
Where's the download
Great video Phil as usual, loving the JM Squier in the back. Will there be a review on it maybe please :)
Hello Phillip! Thank You for Very informative videos!!! I have a important question for you, hope you may be able to help? I have a 2016 Epiphone Nighthawk Custom Blue Quill face with a dark blue back and neck, I have some damage repairs already done but am unable to match the back blue color for repaint, I have already contacted Epiphone from help but have not heard back from them? So, I though about an answer guy as yourself, so if you can help me with how to get the paint for the rear of the guitar, I would be in your debt! Thanks Sir!!!
The opening music seemed a few BPM faster. Sounded different and way cool anyway. I love it when TH-cams see if you noticed.
Phil did you say that orange guitar was a Squire? I'd like to pick one up in that color, do you mind telling me what model and year that guitar is? Thanks for all the tips, great video.
Phil, If you tell every bozo to tighten their screws on thebolt-on necks you'll have a huge amount of people overtightening them.
The video seems a bit over the place while it is a great idea. Make one list for a "pre-check" in store, make one if you got the guitar delivered and one to Service Check List before you give it to a "luthier" if you can find one.
The graphite from the pencil goes everywhere. It is shoved away by the strings, gets on the fretboard. The fingers pick it up and get it on the rest of the guitar.
You don't want any fine magnetic crap on your guitar.If you lubricate, use a tiny amount of PTFE(teflon) based grease in the nutslots. No lubricant can substitute a well made nut.
Let them work on it before you walk out the door.
My best tip is to bring a bright headlamp with you, no matter if you buy in a store or second hand. You can't find damage if you don't see it. I see every scratch, every dent and you can use it inside an acoustic as well. (I like the black diamond midrange models, obviously also great if you fix anything and need both hands.)
If you're in the store and you find something...bring down the price or let them take care for it. Polish out this, put on these strings, work on the nut to make those strings work and I'll be back in two hours. Or i take the guitar as it is and you go down in price a little. If it isn't a 150€ fender acoustic, most quality guitar stores will do it. (Not the big supermarket chains)
Hey! Awesome video but can you re-upload The electric and acoustic sheets? They don't work anymore and I kinda want to use them! ;)
Hey Phil can't find the PDF. It says the file was removed
Great And Very Helpful Info, Thank You Phill
Neck angle, especially on set neck guitars
Nut is cut properly. Same if the bridge saddles are the cut type
Neck relief
Where is the PDF?
Awesome Phil - sharing !
Hi Phillip, when using a fret rocker, Does it make a difference if the neck has some relief as opposed to if the neck is flat or bowed up? Or do I set the Action first with the truss rod before fret rocking ? Thanks
Hey Phil does an adjustment to the screws on top of a humbucker style pickup that are under each string warrant any attention? I’ve seen them but never knew what they can/cannot do. Thanks
search for pickup pole piece adjustment on YT.
Thanks Phil. Great tips and helpful sheet. Thanks for sharing. When I check intonation, I actually fret the note at the 12th fret. Is the harmonic method a better way to do that? Regards. Happy Holidays.
Hey Phil - I remember from your video with TTK on the new cheap Epiphone that the tailpiece was almost popping out of the body. This is happening to me with my Epiphone Sheraton II (in which I top wrap the strings which might be helping the tailpiece on that popping out movement). I know it's not a flat top body but I'm not sure if I should have that checked or if it's not a big deal.
This is a big deal and it shouldn't happen. If you can still bring it back, do so to get your money back or let them fix it. That's not on you.
What are some of the weirdest grounding issues in your experience, how does emi effect a guitar one day from the other? Beyond normal 60 cycle hum, what causes other funny noises caused by pots, grounds, capacitors, etc...?
Great checklist!
Great video, thank you so much for everything you are doing.
I don't see the link to the sheet.
Great job Phil. Now if I do this and discover the guitar needs repairs beyond my scope, how does one contact you these days?
Great video Phil. Thanks!
Phil, is it possible to expand on checking the nut to see if it’s cut too high or too low. For instance I had one that was cut too low, I had a buzz on an open string. However, I truly couldn’t tell if it was the but at first or a bad neck. Even a tech I brought it to was lost. Took it to a better tech and he determine it was simply cut too low. Would’ve been nice to have a check that made a determination either way. Thanks and great list!
One check for that is to fret a string as if to play on the 3rd fret (press between 2nd and 3rd fret so that the string touches 2nd and 3rd frets). There should be a gap between the string and the 1st fret about the thickness of a business card, and it certainly should not be not touching.
You're ok with headstock tuners, Phillip? I hear differing opinions on them and seem to get different results when I tune using one vs an electronic tuner.
Tech stuff is always good + my picture was displayed first!
Make shure the jack is tight and the plug feels secure and not sloppy.
Where is the document he is talking about - I don't see anything added below .
It is right below his name, as a drop box link.
When did you get theJ Mascis?
Very helpful, thank you for sharing.
Excellent video!
Anybody got the sheet for electric. The link is broken
Really great information
Awesome. Thank you!
I got a PRS Holcomb SE 2017 and the d string makes a bell like sound. Really bad on the 5th to 8th frets. Noticed that the neck had quite a bit of relief and the action was low. Fixed all that and it's still doing it. What would be your first guess? High fret somewhere?
I have a PRS SE. One thing I find is it is usually the slots in the top nut that cause this ring on strings. On Amazon, you can look for graphite, pre-slotted nuts made specifically for the PRS model. There is a place to enter the model guitar you have. If you don't know how to sand and shave the back of the nut for height, and to R & R it, then take the new nut to a luthier and have him / her do it. Graphite nut will greatly enhance the SE as far as staying in tune as well.
Awesome man! Thanks so much for the info. Really appreciate it :)
A bit off topic, but do you ever get mistaken for Matt Pinfield?
Hey, is that a squier j mascis?
hey Phil can you help me please I bought Epiphone Casino VS serial no U 06080636 .. How can I find out where it was made & when ? I love your no nonsense approach .
Google is your friend. Epiphone has forums, there are even whole sites just to date most of the common guitar brands.
Excellent video as usual. One thing I would possibly add is to check for any grounding problem with the electronics. Definitely easier to hear once you add gain! Keep up the good work!
Good post, good idea and informative -- However, disregard the caliper link above. That one can measure just 0.01" or 0.1mm and not read out to 0.001" or 0.01 mm, so I cannot see useful as a luthier tool. I should have read the description before immediately buying!
Pickup height is more of a tonal choice (within the reasonable range of not IN the body and not pulling the strings out of tune)
Great stuff...btw where’s the Q n A?
very helpful Phil! TY
Nice one Phil!