There are TWO clutches on these engines : the centrifugal one , which grabs on as the engine reaches a speed a bit higher than ECU-determined idle (and has NO adjustment , just built-in behavior) , and the standard multi-plate one , which engagement 'play' you are actually adjusting here - just like one does with a cable operated typical motorcycle clutch. This system works smoothly enough when upshifting ...but not so so smoothly when dowshifting (even with the standard clutch adjusted to minimal play (thus maximum separation of plates). I hate the 'heel' lever thing so chopped it off mine , then modified the 'toe' to make it more comfortable in operation . Works good enough to my taste now...but I think the Kategawa hydraulic kit would be a better deal.... Took me a while to tune in to the kinda jerky downshifting. 1000 miles on mine now and I still have the occasional rather clunky one... Well, not to worry as it won't break down from the jerks ? (my old CT lasted decades with the same design , same issue). Maybe I'll end up with the K-kit...but I enjoy the ride anyways , great bike .
With larger turn backs, there won't be much of an indication during upshifts, but downshifts will be marked by difficulties and a loud thud. There may also be a foul, burning clutch smell.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
How do you know when the clutch needs replacing? What's the symptoms?
once you can't adjust it anymore and it starts slipping
Gute gemacht!!!
Tried this, never got resistance when backing the screw off. Now I can't shift into 4th sometimes. Any advice?
how many miles?
@@DaBinChe about 6000
12.20nm
Funny, this is almost exactly like my old passport. Wish Honda would have put a removable filter screen like they had on the symba.
Honda Passport, in my case an early 1980s model, were rebranded Honda Cubs.
There are TWO clutches on these engines : the centrifugal one , which grabs on as the engine reaches
a speed a bit higher than ECU-determined idle (and has NO adjustment , just built-in behavior) , and the
standard multi-plate one , which engagement 'play' you are actually adjusting here - just like one does
with a cable operated typical motorcycle clutch.
This system works smoothly enough when upshifting ...but not so so smoothly when dowshifting (even
with the standard clutch adjusted to minimal play (thus maximum separation of plates). I hate the 'heel'
lever thing so chopped it off mine , then modified the 'toe' to make it more comfortable in operation . Works
good enough to my taste now...but I think the Kategawa hydraulic kit would be a better deal....
Took me a while to tune in to the kinda jerky downshifting. 1000 miles on mine now and I still have the occasional rather clunky one...
Well, not to worry as it won't break down from the jerks ? (my old CT lasted decades with the same design ,
same issue). Maybe I'll end up with the K-kit...but I enjoy the ride anyways , great bike .
Thank you. I really enjoyed your video. All my questions were answered by you in the comments. Thank you, again. And happy New Year!
Why 1/8th of a turn back and not more?
Use your brain
With larger turn backs, there won't be much of an indication during upshifts, but downshifts will be marked by difficulties and a loud thud. There may also be a foul, burning clutch smell.
Is it a wet clutch?
yes