Feeding Bees and Overwintering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- **EDIT: Wellington County Beekeepers Association, not Waterloo County**
Paul Kelly, research and apiary manager, and David Stotesbury, research and apiary assistant, show how to feed and overwinter honeybees.
Frequently asked questions: hbrc.ca/faq/
At the 12:12 mark, David says "Waterloo County Beekeepers' Association", when in fact he meant the "Wellington County Beekeepers' Association".
A descriptive transcript is available here: www.uoguelph.c...
For more videos, check out the University of Guelph's Honey Bee Research Centre youtube channel at this link:
/ @uoghoneybeeresearchce...
For more work by David Borish Visuals, check out:
www.davidborish...
We would like to thank Québec beekeepers Marie-Hélène Majeau and Susan Kennerknecht for translating our videos into French. We are very grateful for their help with this project. (To view translation, click on settings then subtitles)
Nous aimerions remercier deux apicultrices du Québec, Marie-Hélène Majeau et Susan Kennerknecht pour la traduction de ces vidéos en français. Nous leur en sommes très reconnaissants. (Pour accéder à la traduction française, sélectionnez paramètres et ensuite sous-titres)
Here is the link to the winter hive wraps used in this video available thorough the Wellington County Beekeeper's Association: www.ontariobee.com/sales-and-services/polypropolene-winter-hive-wrap-program
Thank you to everyone for watching and supporting our videos! If you have any questions about our videos, please check out our list of FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS on our website, which can be found at honeybee.uoguelph.ca/videos/frequently-asked-questions/
love the channel and appreciate all the info, but kinda disagree on moisture control. Burlap in a Vivaldi board has WAY too much success
When using the barrel method how far away from the apiary do you place your barrels?
Most thorough, well explained and easy-listening beekeeping tutorials absolutely anywhere.
Thanks! We appreciate your generous comments.
Hahahaha "they just cant get up one more time to go to the buffet table one more time" had me in stitches!
Glad you got a good laugh there Dundonian!
your videos are just wonderful I just keep watching them over and over thanks for taking the time to make them . U are great
Thanks Francis! We enjoyed making the videos and will do a few more each year.
Wonderful educational content. I am a budding bee keeper learning a lot from these videos.
Very useful and informative. In our warmer northern Australian climes we seldom feed. Colonies generally can collect enough stores to survive rather than thrive. Bee number and breeding seem to go into a holding pattern. Temperatures can range from -4 to 24C with heavy frosts followed by more ld days
Interesting Linton. Very different than here. Winter is tough on our bees so we have to give them lots of help.
This guy is great... Enjoy the videos and love the knowledge that he passes on to us
Thanks Gene. We'll do twenty more videos this summer.
Putting the entrance reducer upside down can help. Bee drop, winter kill can layer up and plug the down position opening.
Glossary::Pail === Bucket, Aboot === About. Thanks for the excellent content!
Hahaha. We don't have an accent here! Cheers.
To anyone interested in obtaining the coroplast polypropolene winter wraps ... They are actually available through the Wellington County Beekeeping Association (not the Waterloo County Beekeeping Association). Our 2018 order has been filled and we produced and distributed 3200 wraps through Ontario, Quebec, British Columbia and additionally sent a few 'south of the border'. These durable wraps last for many years. The program is run on a 'non profit' basis with wraps sold at just over cost. Any profits realized from the sale are donated to the Tech Transfer Team of the OBA. For more information on these wraps visit www.ontariobee.com/sales-and-services/polypropolene-winter-hive-wrap-program
Hi fshrgy99
Thanks for your note about the Wellington winter wraps. I assisted with the wrap project start up so was disappointed that we got this wrong in the video. Maybe you missed it but we did include the correct information with text on the video prior to posting it.
We are still using the 32 year old coroplast wraps I bought from a US source. The WCBA is to be congratulated on the sale to date of approximately 50,000 of these wraps! We'll post the link you provided in our FAQ. Thanks!
Update for fshrgy99
We added the wrap info link to our FAQ, pinned a comment at the top of the comments section, noted that there was already a correction in the video description and of course the text correction in the video itself. Thanks for your note.
Thank you so much for these very informative videos. I'm already looking forward to next winter so we can give a few single deeps a try. Never thought it possible that a single deep could hold enough stores to last the winter.
Hi HHF
That's the right approach. Try a few and see what you think. I was skeptical at first so tried it in one bee yard twenty years ago. I would never go back to doubles except for the occasion where we need a place to park some extra brood comb.
I'm very happy to hear you have enjoyed the videos. Thanks.
Looking forward to more on single deeps. Thanks again.
I think that's #2 on our hit list for videos next spring.
Astonishing! With one brood chamber going through the Canadian Winter what is your percentage in hive loss into spring? I live in Massachusetts and i go into winter with two deep at about 120lb. Quality Videos
I would love more information on the single brood chambers and the pros and cons vs the double brood box... I see you said that you would be posting more on that but that was one year ago... do you have any plans to post those videos? I have troubleshot so many of my hive problems with your videos. I am so grateful for this content I hope you make more!!!
Great set of videos. Thx for sharing Paul.
Thanks your kind comment Duncan. We winter most of our hives in single deep brood chambers. The only case in which we winter double deeps is if we have some extra brood boxes that we want to protect from wax moth damage. Any doubles are split in the spring. Someday we'll do a video on single vs double brood chambers. About 70% of the hives in Ontario are wintered as singles. Lots of advantages and easier than you might think.
Much appreciated Paul. Really enjoyed the videos and found them both professional and extremely informative. Will look forward to seeing more in 2017
All the best
Just can't say enough about your videos
Thanks Carl!
Thank you for this video which I came across in Nov 2023. I screwed up and fed my bees as the temp dropped and it's likely they didn't have time to reduce the moisture content. Is there anything I can do over the winter to reduce the effect of bees eating fermented feed? Thank you!
Great videos. Been going through them. Just subscribed. Question: I like the top feeder with straw on top, as I have them next to a straw barn. But does the wood absorb too much? How is the wood protected? Would putting a coat of beeswax be enough? Thanks!
That was so informative ....very good presentation.....thanks for posting
You are welcome Linton. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Merry Christmas to you too.
Happy holidays!
This is so amazing! 🤗
Hi Paul, just wondering when you should start feeding for overwintering in southern ontario. I wish mac offered courses like this :( ! Amazing work
Hi Leo
We start feeding mid to late September. Thanks!
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre Great thank you for the info! My bees seem to be doing great this year!
Thanks for the great content. question : Does barrel feeding cause issues with disease? in NZ we have AFB and the wisdom her4e is a feed like that would attract bees from all over the place nad we could spread AFB. Varroa is also a possible issue.
Hi VB's
Our pleasure.
We started this practice about 25 years ago. Almost all of our commercial beekeepers practice this method. AFB rates are at or below where they were back then.
AFB, and maybe Varroa, is far more likely to be spread by bees robbing honey out of other hives. I believe that feeding this way prevents robbing from hives as the bees take it down quickly and subsequently don't need to rob other hives.
All this said, it is quite common here to use prophylactic treatments with oxytetracycline spring and fall - before and after nectar flows. I know you Kiwi's can't /don't do that.
By the way, I spent 6 months in NZ beekeeping and travelling on my bicycle. All around both Islands. What a beautiful country you have!
It's supposed to be a hard winter this year (2022) so are you still waiting until the end of September to do your extracting or will you be starting sooner?
thank you. very clear educational videos. do you also feed patty? i dont see your video on that. or sugar water is good enuf til nxt spring..?
Hi There
We don't usually feed protein supplements. We don't need them here as there is usually enough pollen in the spring.
We do feed pure pollen patties to the colonies we use to raise queen bees.
Thanks for letting us know the videos are helpful.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre so maintaining a few frames of sugar water honey would be suffice during dearth...?
I don't know what your conditions would like but if you have a short dearth that would be enough. In the video we show how much we feed prior to our long winter.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre im in the philippines, long drought often times now cuz of climate change. Thanks and stay safe. Very helpful videos.
Hello,
I am first year beekeeper. Do you leave screen bottom board open or closed for/throughout the winter? Also, do you have any videos of how do you reduce such a big hive population into one brood box or when is the good time to do so?
Thank you.
They talked about having cross wind under the hive, meaning to close the screen bottom. Only reduce the colony if the population is low, otherwise you should have two brood boxes to hold enough stores for the winter. In September-October, I feed the bees to put on weight before winter which is December in my area when the bees no longer take syrup because its too cold.
@@heavymechanic2 Thank you.
Hi Andrey
Please see the video we call 'Our Equipment'. It explains how we use screen bottom boards. The bee population dwindles in the fall and the weather gets colder. Both these situations lead
to reduced crowding.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre Thank you so much.
Excellent ! Thanks.
Thank you for these videos! Question about the screen bottom board. Do you remove the white board that slides in and out or does it stay in?
I'm really confused about whether or not to feed bees homemade nectar in the fall. Several sites have said it's not as healthy as foraged nectar, and other sites say they can't even make honey out of it. Third my own assumption is that human nectar would freeze cuz it can't get as viscous. But at least you say you only do it for a week so maybe that's the secret. Still though, I wonder why you do it for just a week, even though they use it all. If they can't make honey with it, and if by Fall they should have all their comb drawn already, then what are they doing with it? Just getting drunk for a couple weeks? That's not going to help them the next 3-4 months.
Does the show block the entrance? I see you have a hole in the top. Is this for cleansing flights in winter?
This is an excellent video! Thank you so much for putting it together. I am curious how far (or close) you set your barrels from the hive for fall feeding?
Thanks Heidi
We put the barrels in a a sunny spot within a few meters of the colonies.
Ha again, glad to see u I hope u see this. I have a couple of questions for u. I know u over winter in double brood boxes do u know how many frames that 4 gal of food fills. thanks
Hi Frances!
I couldn't answer your question but is enough to top up the honey already present in the brood chamber. A correction - we winter predominantly in one brood chamber.
thanks I sure miss your bee videos they are great wish u put more on here hope u have a good summer and thanks for answering me back have a great day
More videos coming this fall Frances. Thanks for the encouragement!
Thank you sir! as always very helpfull. I'm curious if you supplement honeys with some protein or vitamins or just sugar syrup?
Paul,
Great information on Fall feeding and methods. For your introduced Spring nucleus colonies, do you use 2:1 or 1:1 syrup?
its 2:1
Do you caulk the corners of your Top-feeder (when newly built) to hold the syrup? Where can one buy a 4 gallon top feeder? Most sell 1-gallon feeder.
Hi Kate!
We make our own feeders and yes we caulk the interior joints with clear silicon caulking.
Despite the description, these hold about 4 gallons. Throw out the cover and use straw in the feeder as you can see in our video 'Building Comb'.
dancingbeeequipment.com/collections/feeders-supplements/products/chimney-feeder
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre Excellent idea. Thank you.
Question, why would I need to feed bees right after taking honey off? If I leave enough for bees wouldn't that be the best option?
Hi Lin
If we harvest honey we may need to replace some of the stores by feeding syrup. Feeding syrup allows us to provide the right amount at the right time in the right place. That's a simple way to put it but a video on the topic would be more helpful I'm sure. There are many reasons why most beekeepers feed syrup seasonally.
Curious to know the barrel feeding logistics. Do you mix up small batches with an agitator (paint stirrer), pour them into 45gal barrels and then get two big lads to drag it off the truck on site? Or is there a more cunning way to go about it?
Hi Simone
We buy the sugar syrup premixed from a sugar refinery. It's already dissolved in their last stage of refining. The tanker truck pumps syrup into our barrels and we deliver them to the bee yards with our truck. Strong, clever lads and lasses are quite willing to help in a university environment :) We are truly spoiled rotten!
I understand the math works out well if you're feeding 4 gallons per colony you would have one barrel per 10 colonies. But I need to feed only 2 gallons per colony because they have really fattened up on the fall flow. Is the 1 barrel per 10 colonies still a good idea even though I will put less syrup in it? I'm thinking in terms of spreading out the amount of bees so there isn't too many in 1 barrel, too much fighting. is that right?
How long and cold are your winters?
I still don't get the outside insulation for hives they use commonly in the USA. In The Netherlands, we have from October until March winter and we don't wrap our hives in sometimes it can be -8°C rarely -10°C to -15°C. A few centimeters outside the cluster it is as cold as outside the hive. We even don't use a upper entrances. Some beekeepers close the screen bottombord with the varroa counting lid(?), others not.
I'm also interesting in how you nectar flow's are? In which state of the USA do your bees live? In the Netherlands we have two major nectar flow, one in the spring (April to half May, fruit, apples, pear, cherry's, spring flowers) and one in the summer (half June to Hal July, Tilia and chestnut) and we may have lucky if the Acacia (Robinia Pseudoacacia) gives nectar in half May to begin June (once in the 4 or 5 years we have honey from it). Some beekeepers go to the Salix in March (once in 4 or 5 years the weather is ok to give honey and it's hoping that the Salic honey is capped) to prepare there hives for pollination and some beekeepers go to the heather in August (also once in the 4 or 5 years it gives honey), the heather is like jelly, not liquid, our king under the honey. But he most beekeepers and hobby beekeepers are happy if they have 30 kg of honey a year a hive. You have so much honey, why don't you give a super for the bees?
Hi Mathijs
We are in Guelph, Ontario Canada. Our winters are generally colder than yours. Our bees eat less food and come through in better shape when we wrap them. We don't give bees a super of honey as we keep brood comb and honey comb separate for a number of reasons. Also since we use queen excluders there is no pollen stored in the honey boxes. Pollen they need in late winter to start brood rearing. Thanks for letting us know about your nectar flows and conditions.
UoG Honey Bee Research Centre thanks for your response. I mean give the bees a super of honey more in give them one super less. From what kind of plants comes your honey? Do you have the SHB?
Hi Mathjis
NO SHB yet but it is getting close. As far as honey plants have a look at our website page
www.uoguelph.ca/honeybee/education-bee-plants.shtml
thank you for all your work , i trying to learn as much as possible ,good job.
You are most welcome Oscar. Thanks for taking the time contact us. Have fun with your bees!
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre 3
Intriguing idea, that barrel feeding. But how do you keep it from attracting other critters such as raccoons and such? You have an issue with bears in Ontario, do you not? Are they attracted to barrels full of 2:1?
They're in Guelph. I lived there for a while - no bears anywhere near there for a couple hundred kilometers. But raccoons are a different story, and I was wondering about that, myself.
Great stuff!!! Question: When using the drum method of feeding have you experienced any issues with yellow jackets or wasps? Do you see the drum method being viable for a small operation (less than 10 hives)? Thank you for your terrific teachings.
Hi Michael
You are most welcome!
Wasps aren't much of a problem.They do get in but take a very small amount of feed. Yes it can be done on a smaller scale.
can u do a video on how u reduce the size of the bee hive I us the method of unrestricted brood space I have never used a queen excluder I was afraid of my bees swarming on me I did it this way because I did not know what to do in the way of inspections I did not have your wonderful teaching videos to look at, I did it this way hoping the bees would be so cnfused on there big house they would not think about moving any way how do u make the hive smaller in size to 2 brood boxes. I have plastic queen excluders will they work like yours will the bees go though them to get to the brood for splits. thanks for all your help
HI Frances
You could put a queen excluder in between each brood chamber. After a week there will only be eggs in one box so you know that's where the queen is. You can then make the brood chamber whatever size you want. Since your eyesight isn't great you may have to wait two weeks so you can see which one has younger brood. I'm pretty sure it was you who said your vision was limited.
I am just going to start with a couple of hives this spring and these videos are excellent and very informative for someone just starting out. Do you find your single brood hives over winter better than double brood boxes and when do you start feeding in preparation for winter? Also a suggestion for a video would be the when and how's of pest control. Keep up the good work?
Hi Randy
Great to hear you find the videos helpful. I mentioned in this video that we feed in late September after our fall nectar flow finishes. You'll have to figure out what would be suitable in your location. Our singles winter at least as well as the few doubles we keep. We'll do a video on managing singles this year.
We talk in our abnormal colony conditions videos about disease and parasite detection but don't get into control too much as we can't make recommendations for other regions. I may rethink that plan and do some general recommendations though. Thanks for your suggestions Randy.
yes it was me and thank u so much have a great day
thank u yes I have eye problems
I am a beginner beekeeper in Utah: I continue feeding with sugar
2:1 or 1:1 water the whole winter because bees are indoors around 60-70F, and they
go outside through a clear tube in the daytime when it is sunny or warm enough
to let them do that. Should I continue feeding with sugar water, or would
candies/patties be better?
Because of freezing outdoors , 99% of the bees are freezing,
and not returning to the hive. So, I am picking up hundreds of bees from the snow,
and keeping them indoors inside of a container. After a short period of time, I
see 80-90% of frozen bees recovering and moving around. At that point, I put
them back in the hive. Is that correct? One opinion is that old or sick bees
are going out to die anyway, but most of them seem like young bees. Should I
continue collecting them? Or do you think they might not be returning because
they are intentionally going out to die?
Hi Radheshyama
It's hard to provide advice as it's not common to keep bees inside. I'd feed if they don't have an abundance of stored food but suggest a goal next year to feed lots early in the fall to minimize winter feeding.We have bees dropping to the snow too and just let that happen. It's natures way so I don't interfere.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre Thank you!
I'm wondering. What about snow? Wouldn't a few inches cover that bottom hole, and a larger storm cover that top hole? Do you dig these hives out or something if there's a certain amount of snowfall?
The more snow the better. There is enough air in snow that bees do fine, even if their hive is completely covered. It adds more insulation and wind protection.
Shouldn't the lid be sloping downward to alleviate moisture from entering the hive?
Once our hives are wrapped for winter the lid slopes towards the back of the hive. The wrap also overhangs the entrance. Our bottom boards don't project so water is less likely to enter the hive. You could see the video on our channel titled 'Our Equipment' to see what I mean.
Great information for hive winter preparation . I live in southern Ontario and have followed the outside over wintering wrap preparation for both single hives and double nuc hives. There seems to be much higher losses for double nucs verses single hives. Do they require more insulation due to their smaller size? Also, do you plan to have a video to demonstrate overwintering double nucs both inside a shelter or outside ? It would be appreciated . Thank you.
Hi Donald
Nice to hear from someone in Ontario! I've wintereed double nucs indoors and outdoors. For outdoors I've used insulated packing cases. Unfortunately the packing cases wore out so I'm going to try something else. In the meantime I winter them indoors where they do very well.
Great videos. Two questions:
1) I run on deep langstroth brood. How much syrup should I use? Some videos recommend for every brood box you need a equal size honey super for over wintering.
2. Have you got more details on ventilation? I had read online that if you have a heavy insulated top, and ventilation at the bottom, bees push moisture out through the bottom. Having ventilation at both bottom
And top was not advised?
Thanks
Hi Coin Miner
I think our video 'feeding and overwintering' will answer your questions. Cheers!
While there are different opinions on upper entrances, and various pros and cons, the fact that in one sentence they say that it's important to let the bees be able to control ventilation by closing other entrances, and then the next sentence says how important it is to have two entrances so that they bees are not able to control their own ventilation, gives a clue to the reliability of the opinions expressed here lol
And maybe in their exact climate, ambiant temperature and humidity, and hive configuration, an upper entrance makes sense for them, but in many environments, it's a liability, because it creates too much airflow in the hive.
For instance, while condescension dripping from the top is bad, you need the condensation on the side walls, because that's where the bees get their water from during the winter.
So if you have top cover condensation issues, maybe insulating it would be better than putting an upper entrance in, but an upper entrance isn't the best answer for every situation.
Oh, and FYI for this channel, when something is presented like this that includes contradicting information, and is not in agreement with much of the industry, and not even presented very clearly, and when a valid question is asked you just tell them to watch the video again, it indicates either a lack of understanding of what the question was, or blindness to the situation, and undermines your standing as a reliable source of good information.
@@ke6gwf And your "lol" gives a clue to the reliability of your opinion.
@@henrik5761 the lol was to indicate that I was not being harsh in attacking the video.
But if you don't like my reporting of what the industry consensus is, that this varies depending on conditions, don't try to blame it on my attempt at humor, just admit that you prefer having very closed views on complex subjects.
Hi. Thanks again for the amazing videos. How do you feed your double nucs in the fall? I live in a city and am reluctant to barrel feed. Thanks.
You are very welcome Cliff. Thanks for the encouragement!
We barrel feed our double nucs. I've never tried it but I think a hive top feeder on top of a queen excluder would work. You'd take the same precautions as when supering to keep the 2 queens form having any possible contact
So doing this allows u to pull off all the honey supers?
Do bees get all nutritional requirements from syrup?
Thanks
Yes and Yes. This is how the majority of beekeeper prepare their hives for winter.
thanks for the video. how thick are your hive walls? i use 3 cm thick walls, but they are very heavy to lift when full. Would you think a thinner hive walls would survive winters of -20 degrees? Also what would be other options for wrapping hives?
Thank you for the information. I have a question regarding the space in the hive before the feeding. In this video, you have a full super and top it with the feeder. Q: Where do the bees store the syrup product? Our hive has a super and a medium for brood. Both are full of honey and brood cells. If we feed them 4 gallons of syrup, where will they store the product. Do I need to add a medium box with empty frames? So confusing...?
Hi Ray
You are quite welcome.
Most years there is enough space in the brood chamber for the bees to store the syrup. In our area the last of the brood is emerging or has emerged when we feed so these empty cells are then filled with syrup. This year we are seeing some hives that have stored a lot of fall honey in the brood chamber so we may feed less than 4 gallons in some yards.
Do you have a video of your hive roofs been made by yourselves or are they a bought item. Or could you explain the material they are made from.
Thank you 😁
Hi Gail
We make our hive lids with a 1.5 " x .75" rim. 3/8" ply on top of that and an aluminum cover. We cut and assemble these but it is possible to buy them.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre do you suggest not using moisture boards that many beekeepong places sell and instead just insulate the top?
is it ok if i put my hives with 2 boxes ( one for brood and the top one for syrup they store) in winter ?
Hello , grate videos , really help me a lot . I was wondering if you have any problems with Racoons or skunks , i see your hives are pretty low . A video in the future about it might be grate . Thanks
Thanks Andrei. We can have racoon damage with our mini nucs so we strap them to cement blocks. Skunks do eat some of our bees but with many colonies elevating them is impratical. A good idea though on a smaller scale.
Thank you so much.
Is there are reason why you prefer a 1:2 ratio? In the Netherlands the common ratio for winterfeeding is 2:3 (2 water, 3 sugar). It still mixes very easily, and apparently is easier for the bees to store according to the sources?
Hi Ramon
We purchase 2/1 (65% sucrose) syrup premixed straight from the sugar refinery. That's whats available and it works well. We can keep this syrup for as much as a year without it fermenting.
Is White Satin Powdered Amalgamated Sugar made from beets OK to make syrup for bees? Also, is “Brown” Zulka Morena Pure Cane Sugar OK to feed bees?
Shouldn't the back flap of the wrap be folded down to the back to allow more ventilation?
The upper entrance hole in the wrap is all the ventilation required.
Is 2 to 1 by weight or volume?
And I just found you channel your videos are by far the most informative I've seen. Hope you have plans to make more. Thanks
Hi Nathan
By weight. Thanks for your encouragement!
I had a question. How come you have one deep brood box on most of the hives? I thought that you have to have two... one is for brood and the other is for honey for them to eat during the winter. Or is it because you feed them in the winter? Can you answer that question please... I’m getting bees soon and trying to find out as much information as possible. Thanks for the video it was very helpful!
Hi Denys
Please see our video
'Singles vs Doubles'
How far do you keep the birds away from the heart
How do you know that you are getting the right amount to your bees? How many other hives are hitting your barrel feeders? I set up some feeders in my yard last week and they were really consuming th syrup. I noticed that at least 20% of the bees were leaving in a direction that is not where my hives are. I suspect I have been feeding someone else's hives.
Hi Steve
We only use the barrel feeding method after the fall nectar flow has stopped. It's not a good idea to barrel feed at other times of the year or you could contaminate someone else's honey crop. I don't believe we are feeding other bees in the fall as our hives come out very heavy but everyone here is feeding at the same time in the fall. Every hive gets what they need if we set out 4 imperial gallons per hive.
Hi , what is the secret that makes it not necessary to wear bee sting protection, like the gloves , veil etc? Cheers John
Not too much smoke. A little is good, but a lot will confuse them and make them desperate to get away, causing aggression
they probably have buckfast bees.
They have a special breed of bees, and it's not Buckfast, but a breed developed from Buckfast. There is only one beekeeping company that UofG provides these to, and having kept this exact breed myself, I can attest to how docile and calm these bees were! I never needed protection, even in the fall, and the only time anyone ever got stung was when my little daughter tried to pet one of them!
When should I stop feeding? I have left more than half of the honey and I'm feeding 2:1 . it's October 25th and the bees seem to be slowing down on the syrup they are taking. When should fondant be added?
Hi Gord
In our area we take the honey supers off and feed 4 gallons of 2/1 syrup per hive in the last week of September. That's all they need and no need for fondant.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre thank yoy. I'm a first year newbee abd your info helps A LOT
:)
Very informative video! Where can I buy one of those hive top feeders that is 2 tanks with a slot down the middle? If you all make them yourselves, how do you make them leakproof?
Hi Erin
I made our feeders but hive top feeders are available from most bee suppliers. They usually have 1 slot and one tank. I like our design but the others work too. The bottom of the feeder is glued to the sides and partition with waterproof glue and then all seams are caulked with silicon caulking. Thanks for letting us know you find the video informative Erin.
how much per lb do you have to pay for your sugar? also how many pounds do you put in the barrels?enjoy your vids thanks.S.D.
Hi Steve
We buy it from a beekeeping supply company . It comes as 65% sucrose syrup. We feed 40 imperial gallons in a barrel for each 10 hives. As it's a commodity the price is variable year to year.
thanks for the help.
Hi UoG,
I am wondering where do you get your sugar for your 2:1 sugar syrup? Thank you for making the videos, they are really helpful to new or future beekeepers!
We are fortunate to live within 100 km of a sugar refinery so we get it delivered in a tanker truck. 65% sucrose.
Great to hear our videos have helped you out!
UoG Honey Bee Research Centre
Thank you for responding, I was also wondering the exact ratio and amount of sugar syrup you feed you hives. I live here in Ontario just out of Tavistock. I am hoping to start beekeeping but I was wondering how you do it because of the cost of sugar. Do you have any recommendations for places to buy bees/equipment. Thank you.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre how much feed does a single brood need to overwinter? In terms of frames, do they need 3, 4, 6 with both sides full and do they evaporate and cap sugar syrup they are fed just like they do nectar they bring in that they evaporate into honey?
I thought that it was important to tilt the entire hive in preparation for winter? I see what you did with the roof but not the entire hive? Is there any suggestion on that or further comment?
Good point. It is best to have the hives tipped slightly towards the entrance.
Hi Paul, you mentioned 4 gallons per colony...if I were to winter my bees in two deeps instead of one, would I feed 8 gallons? Thanks!
Hi Again Niki!
We feed the same amount for singles and doubles - 4 gallons. Our imperial gallons are a bit bigger than US gallons.
Is Fructose from an corn Ethanol plant ok for the bees? I see ALOT of ok's and don't do it. What are your thoughts? I live in eastern Nebraska and ethanol plants are close by.
Hi Jeremy
The only sugar I can recommend is 100% sucrose. Some other sugars have high indigestible content or materials that are toxic to bees. In a cold climate high indigestible content, as in high fructose corn syrup, causes excess fecal accumulation.
I'm surprised you use straw. I've heard straw is tubular and can harbor mites. Would hay make a good alternative? With lots of love 💜 from sunny 🌞 Arizona 🌵
Hi Suzi in sunny Arizona!
Straw is quite buoyant and clean so it works better than hay.
Are you going to have a video on how to feed in the spring ? Also do you use pollen patties?
Hi Carl
We don't feed in the spring and we don't use pollen patties. We'll just do videos about what we know best.
I have a bee hive in my shed and I would like it removed as I am allergic to bee stings,
Please reply.
Call a beekeeper or an exterminator Ron. First though try to figure out what kind of insect you are dealing with. You could send pictures to me at pgkelly@uoguelph.ca
What equipment are you guys using to make the sugar syrup on a large scale?
We buy it premixed. It comes straight from the refinery at 65%. VERY handy! A lot of our beekeepers get together to make bulk purchases and beekeeping supply stores make the arrangements.
Thank you again for the videos. You have a very novel way to manage your hives. I was wondering what your historic winter kill rates ( failed hives as a percent of total hives going into the winter) have been with your:
single deep hives
double nucleus hives
Hi Cliff
Winter loss depends on many factors so it's variable year to year. Last winter (a mild winter here) I didn't lose any double nucs or singles and the highest loss I've had has been 24%.That's with my own 120 colonies. We lost 13% with the U of G hives but we do a lot with them.
Isn't the barrel feeding a source of disease transmission between hives?
We don't think so.
Hi I'm a big fan of your videos! how much gallons would you recommend feeding 30 hives half of which are nucs?
HI GIancarlo
Nice to hear you enjoy the videos! Thanks for your encouraging comments.I don't know where you live or what your climate is like and that would make a big difference in how I answer your question. We feed 4 gallons of 2/1 sugar syrup per colony in late September and count each 5 frame nuc (managed in double nuc boxes shown in several videos) as 1/2 a colony ie 2 gallons per nuc.
I enjoy them a lot! I was wondering if it's a good idea to feed the nucs inside their colonies but still do barrel feeding for the big colonies. What do you think?
I have a bad problem with yellow jackets or wasps in my Apiaries, so I don't think this method would work for me
We have wasps and hornets here too but maybe not as many as you. We see some in the feeders but not too many.
Have you guys heard about Paul Stamets and his Bee Research?
Yes. Interesting work.
Couldn't a small hobbyist use the barrel method but with just a 5 gal pail?
Yes you can. Just make sure that 1. there are no other beekeepers nearby 2. you are feeding after the fall nectar flow is finished and 3. that you make the feeder racoon proof ( prevent them from tipping the bucket)
Kevin McMahon yes
I like your barrel feeding idea but if I put barrels of syrup out near one of my yards I would have dozens of black bears destroying barrels and bee hives. What do you do for bears?
Hi John
We don't have bears around our area or at least they are rarely around. That's a good question that I'll have to ask some other beekeepers in bear country about. It's a common feeding method here in Ontario so I should be able to get you an answer. Most beekeepers in Ontario use electric fences where there are bears so I expect they put the barrels inside the fence.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre I was wondering about this also, if I put the barrels right inside the fence they would just be may be 5 or 6' away from the bee hives, would that be OK or is that too close?
Do you *buy barrels of syrup*? And how/where do you get cheap sugar?
A beekeeping supply company make arrangements with the sugar refinery Several suppliers offer the service here. We get 65% sucrose delivered and fill barrels right out of the tanker truck. It's not cheap but saves time and effort mixing.
how much sugar to water would you do for the 40 gallon barrell
Hi Lynn
2/1 sucrose to water by weight. We but it from a sugar refinery premixed.
Please help. I'm a new bee keeper. I was told to use the pail method. I filled with syrup put it on my hive and it is pouring out the bottom of the hive. What do I do now that the bottom board, surrounding ground and my bees are covered in sugar syrup. They are swarming the hive now
Hi Jannine
Used properly pail feeders don't leak. Once you turn them upside down the bees need to suck the syrup out. I'm not sure why this isn't the case for you. Very small holes in the pail and a level hive are important.
Hey Paul thanks for your efforts and your team , i kindly ask about the diameter of the hatch of the inner cover ?
Hi Ibrahim
You are most welcome. The hole in the inner cover for pail feeding 2 inch diameter.
Best The first spring flyby of bees,
2to1, is that two parts water or two parts sugar?
Hi Mag
2 parts sugar to 1 part water.
I'm surprised you used just a thin sheet of corrugated plastic way up North like that
Great videos! Can you tell us what breed of honey bee that you use, or are they cross of some kinds?
Thanks , Rick
Hi Richard
Good to hear you like the videos.
We use Buckfast bees. You could see our Thorah Island video for some more information about our breeding.
Well what are you doing about all this wild bees and the neighbors bees that come and feed off of your open feeding like that
nothing. that's why many don't like this method. you're feeding the whole neighborhood
:) it works. It is a responsible method if you do it after the nectar flow is finished. I responded to another comment today so check that out for more.
Not true. Our bees take the vast majority of the syrup down. We know as we watch it happen! It depends on whoe else has how many bees around you and isn't the right thing to do in all cases. We only barrel feed in the fall after the nectar flow is done.
I am responding to some other comments tonight so please check out those for more thoughts.
Thank you mr Pual kelly and your team about great videos before 2 months ago i see lecturer KELD BRANDSTRUP in amman jordan about Basic breeding of Buckfast I found in your videos what I need in simple english my name FATHI GHAZZAWI the picture is fore my son in trkey
Paul thanks for this video! I take it your bees are overwintering largely on sugar syrup "honey"? Do you find any advantages or disadvantages to that as opposed to honey derived from floral nectars? Or are winter stores used just for heat generating calories, rather than for any micronutrient component? Many thanks.
Hi Westernwilson
Our hives usually have a bit more than two frames of honey before we feed them so they winter mostly on ripened sugar syrup. Fall honey, especially aster, is a bit higher in indigestibles and prone to crystallization so we think that the syrup is better. Certainly it's a more reliable way to give our bees enough food to winter on.
Hi, are your films very instructive, I'm glad I found you, I wonder if after feeding on syrup in September the young queen still has enough room for egg laying even in October ?.
if in the spring they do not have enough food, give them a small box of honey on top of them?
thank you
For backyard bee keepers who don't do barrel feeders - I've heard its a good idea to put some blue dye or something in the syrup, so that you can tell the difference between *real honey* in the hive and the sugar syrup. Hope it helps
Hi Don
I've never heard of that. We only barrel feed or feed by other means after the honey flow is over for the year and the honey is harvested.
If we didn’t steal the honey the bees would be fine. I mean how do they survive in the wild?
Dear sir I want to ask about the barrel feeding how it made if you can help me and give me a photo or video for it i will be grateful
We only use this type of feeding when the bees are finished producing honey for the year. It is not an appropriate way of feeding in many other areas of the world especially in non temperate climates or where other beekeepers have hives located nearby.
I describe how the barrel is set up in the video.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre thank you sir for responding my question what i want to know is how can i made it cause the huge number of bees don't clear the video to see how it made
Hi Paul, thanks for another great video. I'm a new beekeeper and was wondering if you add anything to the sugar water?
You are very welcome Erik. We don't add anything to the syrup.
can you feed bee's their own honey from jars
No, It's too thick. If you dilute it fermentation happens very quickly.
yes you can if if you're a hobbyiest and you keep an eye on the jar to make sure they drink it in a day or so.
Newbie beekeeper thanks
I live in Wisconsin (Zone 5) and we use double brood boxes to overwinter. The top brood box is filled with honey for the bees. I still wrap and insulate the top and have an upper entrance. I would be afraid with only one brood box that the bees do not have enough stores to make it through winter. Do you need to feed in feb or so? I would like to try one brood box next year.
Managing single brood chamber hives is on our video to do list! Please see the comments on singles after our Feeding bees, Supering and Thorah Island videos. We feed heavily in late September to early October and not again until the following fall. You could see the feeding bees and overwintering bees video as it describes our feeding methods. Thanks again John.
you dont tilt the hive forward as well in the winter so water doesn't come in?
The open feeding method for me brought in large amounts of yellowjackets into the yard and once there, after the syrup ran out, they robbed out one of my colonies and killed all the honey bees. Not a fan of open feeding for this reason. (Wisconsin)
HI Kevin
That hasn't been a problem here. We do see some yellow jacket wasps and bald faced hornets in the syrup barrels but only at an incidental level. In our area we never see yellow jacket wasps take over hives, but they can rob out dead or very weak hives. You can also see a lot of dead bees when bees are robbing each other. Once our bees are fed well we see very little robbing.
How do you keep the hornets and bears out of the sugar syrup when you mass feed?
No bears in that part of Ontario.