I came to see what you did with the vise. I stayed for the mustache. I've been considering picking up a couple SMW vises to put on my Pierson MPS plates.
In every thread milling video I've seen they always say to start at the bottom and cut upwards otherwise the swarf can build up in the bottom of the hole and give problems (damage the thread or clog up or even break the tool when in steel). Anyway it's a good habit to get into.
We have made our own fixturing system over many years that is somewhat similar, but much more versatile using Mitee Bite pitbull, t-slot and toe clamps. No need to buy something when you can make it for 10% the cost. Buy an aluminum or steel plate and get to work!
Looks great... never thought about a polymer fixture plate, but why not... this may sound a bit weird but I've taken Fusion 360 files into Houdini, applied UV's straight from their game dev toolkit for texture application, then taken a high res model from Houdini into Unreal Engine as a Houdini digital asset and you can actually display the Fusion object in glorious 4K live rendering in UE4 in whatever involvement you would like... while still being able to edit the digital asset directly in Unreal engine, manipulate lines and shapes and have it translate directly back into F360 with all engineering details still there... pretty mind blowing.
"oh i carnt work with any of this lets just switch this back to metric" has to be the best quote I've heard in a long time. I've had to learn imperial as a lot of the work i do all the drawings are. Still program all in metric but I do have to convert between there are good online converters that can be found. Also in fusion you just have to type in the unit and it will convert for you. in the drawing workspace if you (in metric) add a dimension and you add IN (eg. "2.5IN") it will add the metric dimension (63.5mm) without having to change the units your working in.
I'm new to CNC. This is the first time I've seen making threads with a thread mill. Ive mostly noticed ppl drilling holes and tapping them manually or with a lathe afterwards. Besides expediency and repeatability are there other benefits to using thread Mills? Are they hard to use or figure out speeds/feeds? Would a desktop CNC like an x carve or shapeoko be able to utilize this to good effect? Thanks
I think the desktop ones can but it might be harder in some materials, you basically need a nice and rigid Z-axis with good repeatability for it. It’s actually pretty straightforward once you get used to things, the tricky bit is figuring out the settings for each material since they all behave quite differently. For instance I found I get better results in acetal doing a full cut in one pass, whereas acrylic benefits from doing a spring pass. A big bonus for me is being able to tap holes that would normally be very difficult by hand or extremely numerous. A large distro plate might have 200+ holes and the base of the hole might be less than 1mm from the other side of the plastic. For threadmilling that doesn’t matter, but hand tapping (even with the aid of a machine) those is extremely hard as the taps can easily break through to the other side or crack things.
Don't forget to add a bald eagle, explosions, and something about freedom the next time you get cheeky about America. This video is on point and the b-roll of the machine working is amazing. Great job!
Awesome video man. I've been eyeballing that vice since they started selling them, just haven't pulled the trigger yet. After seeing it now, I just might. Love the channel too by the way. Looking forward to future uploads.
Have you thought of a vacuum hold down? I built a little bed on my home CNC and hooked it up to my Shop Vac. It actually works extremely well for acrylic work.
This Designed That I buy direct from Datron, but places like Cutwel tend to stock them too. Sorotec is a good option as their ones tend to be lower priced and shipping from Germany is still pretty simple.
@@bittech1 cheers mate, will have a look. Thinking whether to get the SMW Mod vice or maybe go with some mitee bites and try make a fixture plate like you did. Great video, would love to see more fixtures if you do any for future projects
@@ThisDesignedThat Have you seen the one used in Aquaceras Part 2? That was good fun, real learning experience too. I picked up 40 Mitee Bites actually over the weekend, should make for something rather cool if my plan works out.
@@bittech1 yes i saw that, they came out really nice and it what inspired me to have a go at making my first fixture plate :). Where did you get your mitee bites from? Im about to order some pitbulls, looks like Wixroyd is probably best best for us UK peeps
This Designed That Yup I went to Wixroyd also. I found a place that was marginally cheaper but Wixroyd has a larger selection of products and a much better laid out website.
8:43 there is no offsets. you buy tool it say 14.4mm etc then you use that cut threat no CAM needed. i use makro perfect everythime. no need spend time on cam figure out RED RED collision. why it cut inside part i not get it
It's a CNC-Step S1000-T. It's similar to a DIY one but comes basically ready to run. I was worried I would put assembling a kit one off for ages when things started getting busy, made sense to go for one that skips that stage. Been a really solid piece of kit so far!
bit-tech Nice. I’m new to cnc and just ordered myself a Shapeoko 3 xxl as a starter machine for some prototype mods and distro plates. Your vids have been a great resource
Imperial.... created in I think 1826....in Britain Vs. Metric.... created in 1790... in France You can complain about using Imperial... because we here in the states complain about you doing mess in metric and we have to go mess with conversion tables
It can’t be switched on with the key in, the chuck cover has to be closed for the on switch to be activated, plus it’s unplugged from the wall when not in use.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.910 | 22 ก.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4TR3MVpOiw8/mqdefault.jpg)
A british gentleman roasting USA for using the imperial system.
You made my day.
I came to see what you did with the vise. I stayed for the mustache. I've been considering picking up a couple SMW vises to put on my Pierson MPS plates.
Used mine for the first time properly yesterday, was definitely impressed, setup time is so minimal with it.
In every thread milling video I've seen they always say to start at the bottom and cut upwards otherwise the swarf can build up in the bottom of the hole and give problems (damage the thread or clog up or even break the tool when in steel). Anyway it's a good habit to get into.
We have made our own fixturing system over many years that is somewhat similar, but much more versatile using Mitee Bite pitbull, t-slot and toe clamps. No need to buy something when you can make it for 10% the cost. Buy an aluminum or steel plate and get to work!
would live to see some examples of your fixtures
Looks great... never thought about a polymer fixture plate, but why not... this may sound a bit weird but I've taken Fusion 360 files into Houdini, applied UV's straight from their game dev toolkit for texture application, then taken a high res model from Houdini into Unreal Engine as a Houdini digital asset and you can actually display the Fusion object in glorious 4K live rendering in UE4 in whatever involvement you would like... while still being able to edit the digital asset directly in Unreal engine, manipulate lines and shapes and have it translate directly back into F360 with all engineering details still there... pretty mind blowing.
"oh i carnt work with any of this lets just switch this back to metric" has to be the best quote I've heard in a long time. I've had to learn imperial as a lot of the work i do all the drawings are. Still program all in metric but I do have to convert between there are good online converters that can be found.
Also in fusion you just have to type in the unit and it will convert for you. in the drawing workspace if you (in metric) add a dimension and you add IN (eg. "2.5IN") it will add the metric dimension (63.5mm) without having to change the units your working in.
Those SMW mod vices look lovely.
why is this guy below 10k subs? content is superb :o
I'm new to CNC. This is the first time I've seen making threads with a thread mill. Ive mostly noticed ppl drilling holes and tapping them manually or with a lathe afterwards.
Besides expediency and repeatability are there other benefits to using thread Mills? Are they hard to use or figure out speeds/feeds?
Would a desktop CNC like an x carve or shapeoko be able to utilize this to good effect?
Thanks
I think the desktop ones can but it might be harder in some materials, you basically need a nice and rigid Z-axis with good repeatability for it. It’s actually pretty straightforward once you get used to things, the tricky bit is figuring out the settings for each material since they all behave quite differently. For instance I found I get better results in acetal doing a full cut in one pass, whereas acrylic benefits from doing a spring pass.
A big bonus for me is being able to tap holes that would normally be very difficult by hand or extremely numerous. A large distro plate might have 200+ holes and the base of the hole might be less than 1mm from the other side of the plastic. For threadmilling that doesn’t matter, but hand tapping (even with the aid of a machine) those is extremely hard as the taps can easily break through to the other side or crack things.
Wow, never thought about using these on a router! I’ve always used a set of drill vices that have been ground down to be flat and low profile
Should be ordering mine next week! Great video!
At least you won’t have to make the fixture plate in addition haha
I wish they'd make a metric mod vise, i'd buy it in a second.
Don't forget to add a bald eagle, explosions, and something about freedom the next time you get cheeky about America.
This video is on point and the b-roll of the machine working is amazing. Great job!
Awesome video man. I've been eyeballing that vice since they started selling them, just haven't pulled the trigger yet. After seeing it now, I just might. Love the channel too by the way. Looking forward to future uploads.
I’ve not seen thread mills until just recently! I gots to try it!
Have you thought of a vacuum hold down? I built a little bed on my home CNC and hooked it up to my Shop Vac. It actually works extremely well for acrylic work.
You deserve way more subscribers!
Narrating sound is low in some parts of video. Otherwise, great content.
Your Thread Mills single-Teeth and 2(or 3/4)-blade ? Is ISO Metric? Is there a brand and model number?
Your a Great Modder true Pro!!
6:08 yes mm is that acurite. you can half it or you can 0.003
Nice. I was thinking of using acetal for my X bed. How is the thread holding up on the acetal? Are they still good till now?
What are you using for coolant ?
more pepole should know the existence of this mustache, 7k is not enough
Great job getting this installed. Where do you suggest getting threadmill cutters in the UK. Seems hard to find.
This Designed That I buy direct from Datron, but places like Cutwel tend to stock them too. Sorotec is a good option as their ones tend to be lower priced and shipping from Germany is still pretty simple.
@@bittech1 cheers mate, will have a look. Thinking whether to get the SMW Mod vice or maybe go with some mitee bites and try make a fixture plate like you did. Great video, would love to see more fixtures if you do any for future projects
@@ThisDesignedThat Have you seen the one used in Aquaceras Part 2? That was good fun, real learning experience too. I picked up 40 Mitee Bites actually over the weekend, should make for something rather cool if my plan works out.
@@bittech1 yes i saw that, they came out really nice and it what inspired me to have a go at making my first fixture plate :). Where did you get your mitee bites from? Im about to order some pitbulls, looks like Wixroyd is probably best best for us UK peeps
This Designed That Yup I went to Wixroyd also. I found a place that was marginally cheaper but Wixroyd has a larger selection of products and a much better laid out website.
8:43 there is no offsets. you buy tool it say 14.4mm etc then you use that cut threat no CAM needed. i use makro perfect everythime. no need spend time on cam figure out RED RED collision. why it cut inside part i not get it
Nice setup, you build the machine yourself?
It's a CNC-Step S1000-T. It's similar to a DIY one but comes basically ready to run. I was worried I would put assembling a kit one off for ages when things started getting busy, made sense to go for one that skips that stage. Been a really solid piece of kit so far!
bit-tech Nice. I’m new to cnc and just ordered myself a Shapeoko 3 xxl as a starter machine for some prototype mods and distro plates. Your vids have been a great resource
That’s awesome to hear! You’ll be able to make some awesome stuff with that machine, they’re really rather capable.
thumbs up
Why would you waste your time in plastic instead of aluminum
your accent make me sub
OxTool (tom lipton) is also very knowledgeable.
Boss channel!
@@bittech1 If u havent u should watch his work place tours.U wont believe the stuff they make there.Berkeley Labs,i think.
I do indeed! I’m a sucker for the whole TH-cam machining community, so much awesome content and knowledge.
Imperial.... created in I think 1826....in Britain
Vs.
Metric.... created in 1790... in France
You can complain about using Imperial... because we here in the states complain about you doing mess in metric and we have to go mess with conversion tables
Metric was created in England by a man named John Bishop, his book with this creation was published in 1668
Don't know why, but you look french!
its the mustache.
Why is your lath chuck key in the chuck? Huge safety mistake.
It can’t be switched on with the key in, the chuck cover has to be closed for the on switch to be activated, plus it’s unplugged from the wall when not in use.
Not first
CNC porn... lol