Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description. If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"! We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! th-cam.com/channels/0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdw.htmljoin Thanks for watching!
Exactly what the doctor ordered! Thanks for the video. One note (that I see others have mentioned, but YOU MUST USE GLOVES when touching the shaft seal or it will fail. Any oils from your hands will due it in over time. Anyone watching... USE GLOVES when handling the shaft seal. if you installed it and didn't use gloves, get a new one and do it again (you now know how easy it is to do... Again, thanks for the video!!!
Links to all tools and products used in the video in the description above! If this video helped you, buy us a coffee and we'll give you a shout out in the next video! Thanks for watching as always! ko-fi.com/tutorialgenius Hit Like and Subscribe! It helps us a lot!
Just to add, it is critical that the Mechanical Shaft Pump Seal ceramic and the end that presses against it(the ceramic surface) are free of any debris such as finger oil. it is recommended that you wear gloves handling that part and if you touch it that you clean it with isopropyl alcohol, I would use 99%, but household isopropyl will work in a pinch. on the rubber part that surrounds the ceramic disk, you can use silicone pool lube, the same stuff you can use on your o-rings. Other than that I found this video extremely helpful, especially the direction of the Mechanical Shaft Pump Seal. Regards,
You are correct but I touch the ceramics everyday because I am a big pump shop and they never leak when I'm done the directions does say don't touch it but the only thing that matters is that you don't get anything on the white part because the mechanical part of the seal has to meet to it
Your direction works perfectly, with no leaks in a year(THANKS!)...even after having to disassemble it again. The bad part is the earlier leaking I had, had rusted up the bearing in the motor, so I replaced those too. I forget who posted that video, it save me a lot of money, just the cost of 2 bearing and a puller.
Thanks for the video - it helped me fix my leak. One comment - my impeller did not have a screw on it (might be a different model.) It was threaded to screw onto the motor shaft. I had to hold the bolt in the back while I turned it counter-clockwise to remove it.
When you forget the volute/motor bottom tray, you might bottom out the bolt in the brass threaded insert. Cut the bolt with a hack saw to separate the volute and the seal plate. The insert will come out if you heat it during drilling it spins out. Now you can drill out the seal plate to accommodate a longer stainless bolt. A 3.5" bolt is long enough, but 4" works too.
My superflow motor old bearing was a 6203, but a new 6203 won't fit on. The shaft is clean. I swear both bearings read 6203. In fact I got four new bearings and all are too small for the rear shaft although they fit the front nicely. What to do? There was a noticeable difference in the size of the bearing inner races, I think .62" for the new and .635 for the old. Makes no sense to me.
It is the right bearing the rear always goes on harder need a good bearing driver if the 6203 you bought fits on the front it fits on the rear I am a pump shop in Melbourne Florida one of the best
Use a little RTV next time on this ceramic on the rubber if you put it on the white part it will leak put it on the outer ring then I guarantee no leak
Removing the pump is the easy part. The seal replacement is the more technical part. To remove the motor is 4 bolts (mine also has 2 nuts). Once that is off, it’s only another 4 bolts to separate the electric motor from the parts shown in this video. You’ll need a couple of 9/16” wrenches. th-cam.com/video/lBXirNca_kI/w-d-xo.html
Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description.
If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"!
We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! th-cam.com/channels/0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdw.htmljoin
Thanks for watching!
Exactly what the doctor ordered! Thanks for the video. One note (that I see others have mentioned, but YOU MUST USE GLOVES when touching the shaft seal or it will fail. Any oils from your hands will due it in over time. Anyone watching... USE GLOVES when handling the shaft seal. if you installed it and didn't use gloves, get a new one and do it again (you now know how easy it is to do... Again, thanks for the video!!!
Thanks for the info!
7 years and it's still working. Don't believe everything you hear haha!
Glad it worked out
For DIY'ers like me, this video really filled the gap(s) in the Pentair documentation(s)
Awesome! Good luck with it! If it helped, please like and subscribe! Thanks!
Links to all tools and products used in the video in the description above!
If this video helped you, buy us a coffee and we'll give you a shout out in the next video! Thanks for watching as always! ko-fi.com/tutorialgenius
Hit Like and Subscribe! It helps us a lot!
Thanks for this video. Helped me save the cost of buying a new pump.
Thanks buddy! I had no idea it was that easy and requires so few tools. You saved me a lot of money!
Just to add, it is critical that the Mechanical Shaft Pump Seal ceramic and the end that presses against it(the ceramic surface) are free of any debris such as finger oil. it is recommended that you wear gloves handling that part and if you touch it that you clean it with isopropyl alcohol, I would use 99%, but household isopropyl will work in a pinch. on the rubber part that surrounds the ceramic disk, you can use silicone pool lube, the same stuff you can use on your o-rings. Other than that I found this video extremely helpful, especially the direction of the Mechanical Shaft Pump Seal. Regards,
You are correct but I touch the ceramics everyday because I am a big pump shop and they never leak when I'm done the directions does say don't touch it but the only thing that matters is that you don't get anything on the white part because the mechanical part of the seal has to meet to it
Your direction works perfectly, with no leaks in a year(THANKS!)...even after having to disassemble it again. The bad part is the earlier leaking I had, had rusted up the bearing in the motor, so I replaced those too. I forget who posted that video, it save me a lot of money, just the cost of 2 bearing and a puller.
Thanks for the great video..
I felt like a pro before I even started
Thanks! Like and sub if this helped! Thanks!
Thanks for the video - it helped me fix my leak. One comment - my impeller did not have a screw on it (might be a different model.) It was threaded to screw onto the motor shaft. I had to hold the bolt in the back while I turned it counter-clockwise to remove it.
Thanks for the feedback! Glad it helped! Having pride at a job well done is satisfying (and so is saving money)! Please subscribe
When you forget the volute/motor bottom tray, you might bottom out the bolt in the brass threaded insert. Cut the bolt with a hack saw to separate the volute and the seal plate.
The insert will come out if you heat it during drilling it spins out. Now you can drill out the seal plate to accommodate a longer stainless bolt.
A 3.5" bolt is long enough, but 4" works too.
In the words of Mr. C. Montgomery Burns: "Exxxcellent".
haha! You're welcome!
Can you take a pool pump motor and convert to regular electrical use like on a band saw or wood lathe?
Thanks
Thank you for this helpful video.
Thanks, this really helped 👍🏽
The ceramic never goes bad they will crack sometimes but the reason for the leak is because the debris on the mechanical the spring part
My superflow motor old bearing was a 6203, but a new 6203 won't fit on. The shaft is clean. I swear both bearings read 6203. In fact I got four new bearings and all are too small for the rear shaft although they fit the front nicely. What to do? There was a noticeable difference in the size of the bearing inner races, I think .62" for the new and .635 for the old. Makes no sense to me.
It is the right bearing the rear always goes on harder need a good bearing driver if the 6203 you bought fits on the front it fits on the rear I am a pump shop in Melbourne Florida one of the best
Thanks for the video. What is the shaft seal part number?
Rogelio Perez-Delgado PS-200
Tks
Would you know if my pump is really grinding and making a very loud whining noise does that cause it to use more electric?
It making loud winning noises? What did it win? That's some pump! hahahaa!
sorry whining. Do you have an answer?
@@johnporada927 your bearings are going bad no it will not use more power
Hello, how do you know the size of the seal? I have the same pump as you
See product in video description.
Use a little RTV next time on this ceramic on the rubber if you put it on the white part it will leak put it on the outer ring then I guarantee no leak
Thanks bro 😎👍🏻
Thanks for video.
me interesa mucho ver el video
porque en el segundo 50 se queda stop
I'm not having this problem. Sounds like internet. Just click past it
why would you make a video showing how to replace the seal by starting with the pump already apart?
Hey, remember youtube is free. You didnt pay for anything.
It's nuts and bolts, you'll figure it out.
Removing the pump is the easy part. The seal replacement is the more technical part.
To remove the motor is 4 bolts (mine also has 2 nuts). Once that is off, it’s only another 4 bolts to separate the electric motor from the parts shown in this video. You’ll need a couple of 9/16” wrenches.
th-cam.com/video/lBXirNca_kI/w-d-xo.html